Introduction

Le remplacement du dissipateur thermique nécessite le retrait de la carte mère et l'application d'une nouvelle couche de pâte thermique.

Retirez les dix vis suivantes, fixant le boîtier inférieur au boîtier supérieur :
  • Retirez les dix vis suivantes, fixant le boîtier inférieur au boîtier supérieur :

    • Trois vis Phillips 13,5 mm (14,1 mm).

    • Sept vis Phillips 3 mm.

Step 1 (technically step 9 - replacing the base plate) Apparently one of my screws was a micron or two smaller than the others. This screw belongs to the hole above the optical drive, which is also apparently a couple of microns smaller than the others. It took seven attempts to figure which screw had originally been in that hole; all the other screws were too large, but fitted perfectly everywhere else.

Bizarre much?

Will - Réponse

It might be a matter of how the screws are driven in, and not that they're slightly different sizes. When I reassembled my MacBook, a couple of the screws, including the one over the optical drive you mention, were hard to drive in and jutted up a little bit instead of sitting entirely flush. Swapping screws didn't help. The solution was to unscrew them and drive them in at a bit of an angle - perpendicular to the slightly curved surface of the back plate where the screw holes were, instead of fully vertical with respect to the ground the Macbook is sitting on. Doing it that way, the screws were easier to drive in and they all ended up flush in their holes. Didn't matter which screws they were. (I swapped a few around just to check after reading this.)

Andrew Janke -

I had no such screw issues. Either there are differences in manufacturing lots or I just got incredibly lucky during reassembly!

xtophr -

I discovered a great way of organizing the screws. I used an ice cube tray and added the screws in order, keeping the different kinds together. So when it came to reversing the steps, the screw order was an added control step to returning everything in its place.

leonie - Réponse

Great advise! Love it! :)

Ririds -

I used to do that and that worked really great until I bumped it by accident and the entire tray went on the rug! I spent the next day sorting things out.

Now I use these:

http://www.sciplus.com/p/50-114-CLEAR-PL...

The lower ones 50 to a package. I mark them w/ blue tape. Often if it's part like the fans, or the optical drive I'll tape the screws into/near the holes where they belong. I did this a lot especially w/ the bottom screws from MBPs until I'd done so many I knew exactly where the longer ones went.

Richard Sato -

I wrapped the screws in a piece of blue masking tape and wrote the number on the little pouch I made. Then I stuck the blue tape pouches on the underside of the case bottom in order.

Roscoe -

I take double-sided tape, put that on a piece of paper, stick the crews to that, and label them.

jelimoore -

Best I've found is a bead sorting tray. They're like $5 at Wal-Mart and they have a lid that seals up and won't let them jump between containers.

maccentric -

I take a sheet of paper, pierce the screws through the paper, take a pen and box the screws and write out what step they belong to.

Nils -

@Will, in my case I had the same result as you did. As a reminder to myself the next time I need to open the computer, I put a dot of white paint on those two screw's head and a very, very thin ring of white on the very edge of each hole, that way I'll know they go into those two holes.

Roger - Réponse

Actually the four screws on the bottom were not threaded all the way up. I didn't check to see if the thread gauge was the same on them, but it wasn't until I had about four screws out (I didn't take them out in the order that the bottom all came out first) that I noticed a difference. I then took out the rest of the bottom ones to see if they matched the two that were already out that weren't threaded to the top. They did. So I went under the assumption that those were all bottom screws and when I put it back together everything went fine with no resistance.

So there are three types of screws: Four for the bottom, three long ones as indicated and three others that might be slightly smaller than the bottom ones.

wresnick - Réponse

Hi,

Although its more than a year since your contribution, I thought you might be amused to know that it is not just that the screws go in more easily when at an angle, Apple actually drilled and tapped the holes at a 15% angle. I too had tried to drive them in straight. An Apple "genius" - I was in for something else - clarified the design for me. It was done so that the screws lay flush on the angled part of the lower case. Nice design, but since Apple encourages DIY memory and drive changes, they could have mentioned this little ... trap.

H Stahl -

MacBookPro8,2

Intel Core i7, 2,2 GHz, RAM 16 GB

Mountain Lion

May someone help me?

I have installed the second drive with ssd 840 evo, but when I try to copy the file from the new drive to the main hd this in not allowed (errore -36)

Piero - Réponse

To my knowledge you can't transfer a single file more than 4gb. I advise compressing to a bunch of rars to split the file size and moving them individually

1982sketcher -

Hey everyone, here's the very best way to PERFECTLY organize your screws AND keep track of the order of the procedure: Get a piece of plain corrugated cardboard and a pen (I like using a Sharpie). For EACH step of the disassembly, draw a simple diagram of the layout of the computer on the piece of cardboard, with dots or Xs where the screws are located. Right after you remove each screw from the computer, poke a hole in the cardboard in its corresponding diagram position with your screwdriver and place the screw in that hole. If there are other non-screw related parts to be removed, you can add notes below each step diagram to remind you of where they go or how they should be placed. This cardboard method is great not only because your screws will not go flying or get mixed up by accident if bumped, but each screw goes EXACTLY back where it came from and you can keep the cardboard as a template for future use if necessary!

- zerø K

zeroK - Réponse

for all the mac 2011 owner. we should pressure apple to accept their fault. they gave as a piece of junk while they took our $2000. -betrayed apple fanboy

mindful - Réponse

These instructions worked great for me. I ordered a replacement battery from Key Power (on Amazon) for my 15" Macbook Pro (mid-2010). Cost was $74 shipped.

Battery came with 3 different screwdrivers to help with installation. I just needed the one size though, since my 2010 seemed to use all the same size screws.

Thanks!

Marcos - Réponse

During re-assembling (put the screws back in), it is important to note that the 3mm threaded holes are not completely vertical, but bent a little bit such that the hole direction is rectangular to the tapered surface. The force of the screwdriver must point towards the direction of the hole. Otherwise the screw gets jammed

kusi - Réponse

There is a FOOLPROOF WAY TO ORGANIZE ALL SCREWS and other parts removed.

Print the repair guide.

Yes, the actual photo of the bottom of the laptop with the circles around the screws.

When you remove the screw, tape it to the photograph.

You will tape the screw to the exact location that you just removed it from.

Same thing with any part you remove.

splashzoneent - Réponse

Thanks Splash!!! I used your suggested method, and it was perfect: kept all my screws, and i was able to, very easily, put them back in their correct place. I greatly appreciated your feedback. Thank you for sharing!!

Tommy Kedar -

Thank you!!! This worked fabulously - even the I.T. people at my workplace were excited as they never thought to do that before. Replacing the battery took about 10 minutes!

nclarke36 -

Worked like a charm! Took less than 20 minutes.

It's Oct. 2015, and the fan cost me about $10. it was the same brand/model...

SUNON MG62090V1-Q020-S99 .

SOME TRICKS -

1- no T6 screwdriver- was careful using needle nose players to loosen 2 screws protruding up, then use a small phillips to push real hard into the T6 slots, SLOWLY turn , also used a small flat head screwdriver (for eye glass repair) was able to grab thread on T6's, made a small mark with screw driver across the top so I could see when it started to turn.

2- no spudger -made one; cut a little strip 1/2" x 1 1/2" of plastic. couldn't get it to slide under plug, there's an edge where plug fits. so lifted old fan out, pulled upward on the plug it popped right out with very little effort. I used my home made spudger to push the new plug into place.

3- download free "Macs Fan Control" This is how I was alerted to the fan not working in the first place. Program shows temperature of all key components in the computer.

cheers- Durango CO!

Dgodrummer - Réponse

Watch the video first, read the entire tutorial and all the comments before you start, and spread a white towel on the floor so you can find screws when you drop them. Watch this first -- http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qiBxhA29e...

kevicoll409 - Réponse

Please be aware that you CAN do this replacement with MUCH LESS work. I successfully replaced a trackpad (TP) in this model WITHOUT removing a lot of what is described here. I think i mainly removed the logic board (LB) anchor screws along the TP side and was then able to lever up the LB just enough to get the cable unplugged and snaked out. Followed the reverse and done. Maybe not for all, but it worked for me. // Re screws: i print out the images here of the multi-screws locations and then tape the screws in place on the print-out.

Danno - Réponse

Is it necessary to ground oneself to prevent static damage to logic board, etc. when replacing the speakers?

If so, what is the best way to do this?

Do you wear wrist strap designed for this purpose? To what metal object do you attach the clip and wire? I’m assuming the aluminum case isn’t going to work.

Sibyl Smith - Réponse

I will be buying a battery from you and using your instructions. I just installed a new CD/DVD using your instructions and 1) I feel like I owe you something and 2) Although more expensive, I have the confidence your battery will work. My current battery is the original with 1399 cycles in 7.2 yrs. A tech buddy had bought me a replacement and I installed it. I had just installed a new OS and the kernel_task went going nuts, using 90% of the CPU. Hours on the phone with Apple did not resolve the issue. On a whim, I put the old battery back in and Voila! But I cannot risk my battery swelling and going south on me. I am also going to buy your installation tools. Yeah, I already have them. But you can never have enough tools…or beer. And you don’t sell beer.

Pete Banks - Réponse

En vous servant des deux mains, soulevez le boîtier inférieur au niveau de la fente pour le libérer des deux clips qui le fixent au boîtier supérieur.
  • En vous servant des deux mains, soulevez le boîtier inférieur au niveau de la fente pour le libérer des deux clips qui le fixent au boîtier supérieur.

  • Retirez le boîtier inférieur et mettez-le de côté.

After pulling out the lower case and put it back on, the lower case doesn't stick well with the left clip. What should i do now?

Januar Wiyogo - Réponse

What is the maximum amount of RAM that can be installed in this MacBook?

michael - Réponse

16 GB is the max

Bradon Kelley -

  • Retirez les deux vis Y1 Tri-Wing par lesquelles la batterie est fixée au boîtier supérieur.

  • Remarque : pour certaines réparations (disque dur, par exemple), le retrait de la batterie n'est pas indispensable, mais permet d'éviter un court-circuit accidentel sur les équipements électroniques de la carte mère. Si vous ne retirez pas la batterie, faites attention, car les composants de la carte mère peuvent être sous tension.

  • Il n'est pas indispensable de retirer la batterie en suivant les étapes 3 à 6 pour remplacer le disque dur. Il est cependant recommandé de retirer toutes les sources d'alimentation des éléments électroniques avant de travailler sur ces derniers.

A 1/16th flathead screwdriver easily removes the tri-wing screws in this step. I could not find a Y0 Tri-wing driver at any local stores.

Jon Daniels - Réponse

I'd like to add that for me, a 1/16th flathead screwdriver did NOT allow me to remove the tri-wing screws holding the battery in place. After several careful attempts, it became obvious I was perilously close to stripping the screw(s), so I abandoned the attempt to unscrew the tri-wing screws with a flathead screwdriver altogether. As it turned out, I didn't need to remove the battery to do what I needed to do (keyboard replacement), but it would have been a whole lot easier had the battery been easily removable.

dave - Réponse

The Tri-wing screw driver is impossible to find in retail, amazon and ebay are great bets but they vary wildly in quality... I ordered two, and both were so cheap, and barely got the job done. It could be worth getting it here. When you do get it, make sure you push, the Y0 screws were very tight in my macbook, pressing hard prevents you from stripping the Y screw.

Abe - Réponse

I believe they are Y1 screws, no?

Mark -

Short of taking out the battery is there something else I can do to protect the motherboard?

Bruce Bell - Réponse

What worked for me was actually a set of needlenose pliers - the heads on those screws aren't flush, they actually stick out enough that it's possible to turn them from the outside. Caused some scuff marks on the finish of the screws but it's not like anyone's going to see them anyway!

oboewan42 - Réponse

A tri-wing screwdriver sold as 'for Nintendo Wii' marked 'HFA 360/ x50' did the job. I replaced the screws with standard-head M2x6mm metric screws (M2 = 2 mm thread, 6 mm length of threaded part). Exactly, I took them out of an old hard-disk (with torx head and slightly shorter).

akronymus - Réponse

It says "Note: For certain repairs (e.g. hard drive), removing the battery is not necessary but it prevents any accidental shorting of electronics on the motherboard." This is obviously a boilerplate instruction that is not appropriate for a repair guide.

Well, DO you have to remove the battery? IS this one of those repairs where it's "not necessary but prevents accidental shorting"?

Obviously, this instruction is boilerplate text that accompanies almost all the repair guides-- but there shouldn't be boilerplate text there, since this is a specific guide for replacing the Magsafe DC-in jack and not the harddrive.

skat1140 - Réponse

  • Avec le bout du doigt, décollez avec soin l'angle de l'étiquette d'avertissement pour accéder à une vis Tri-Wing cachée.

  • Retirez la dernière vis Y1 Tri-Wing par laquelle la batterie est fixée au boîtier supérieur.

Is removing the battery necessary?

bname - Réponse

It is not strictly necessary. As mentioned above, removing the battery is the only way to be sure that no parts of the logic board are electrified. It is very easy to replace the hard drive without removing the battery, but it is safer to remove the battery first.

Daniel Brauer -

Note: removing the battery can cause a hitch with OS X 10.9 Mavericks installation to a blank drive, or at least it did for me.

Disconnecting the battery makes the hardware clock reset to something like Jan 1, 2000. This causes the Mavericks installer to fail its self-check with the error message: "This copy of the Install OS X Mavericks application can't be verified. It may have been corrupted or tampered with during downloading."

To fix this, you need to open up Terminal from the Utilities menu in the bootable OS X installer environment and use the `date` command to set your Mac's clock back to the correct time before proceeding with the "Install OS X" menu selection, as described here: http://blog.mconserv.net/2013/10/install...

Andrew Janke - Réponse

Thanks for that warning, Andrew.

Max Fenton -

Happened here too, thanks for the tip!

Franco Bianchi -

As a note, my Mid-2010 Unibody Macbook did not have this third screw, just two to remove the battery.

Max Fenton - Réponse

Can anyone answer this question. I cannot afford the entire 80 dollar repair kit listed here and the tools needed only list a spunger t6 and a phillips...it appears from some of these comments there are more drivers needed. I am afraid to do this anyway but not having the right tools off the bat will just make things more difficult while waiting for an order to come in...can someone list the exact tools I would need ? Any help would be appreciated...I am ready to order this but want to put in one order....ifixit, can you clear this up perhaps ?

laurie - Réponse

One of the most important tool you should get is the head strap magnifier with lighting, it will make your viewing and capable ability much more confident.

James -

Answered my own question ... the list at the top of this page is dif from the list when you order the part.....

laurie - Réponse

Taking the battery out is the easiest part once you have the Tri-Wing screwdriver

Tri-point Y1 Screwdriver

Tao - Réponse

And yes, taking the battery out does naturally make the hardware clock reset.... It's easily fixed. See Andrew Janke's comment above.

It's a small hassle, compared to needing to possibly replace your logic board because a surge from your battery fried it.

Tao - Réponse

Ne trouvant pas de tournevis Y1, j'ai utilisé avec succès une pince électrique à bouts fins pour déserrer la vis puis j'ai terminé avec un tournevis plat très fin (1.5x35)

Ivan Keller - Réponse

I stripped the Y screw! Arghhhh. Any help ideas?

erinandjoy - Réponse

new battery drains at the rate of about 10% a minute. i may have received a faulty one but i wouldn't have bought it if i knew what i know now.

aozoren - Réponse

Is this a battery from iFixit?

Scott Dingle -

Is all of this necessary if I am just needing to put a new top to my old bottom?

sherry williams - Réponse

  • Soulevez la batterie en tirant sur la languette d'extraction et dégagez-la du boîtier supérieur.

  • N'essayez pas de retirer complètement la batterie pour le moment.

Ajouter un commentaire

  • Inclinez la batterie vers l'arrière suffisamment pour accéder au connecteur du câble de la batterie.

  • Débranchez le câble de la batterie de sa prise sur la carte mère et retirez la batterie du boîtier supérieur.

  • Retirez ensuite le connecteur du câble de la batterie au centre de la carte mère.

I'm having the same problem as previous commenters: the battery now drains much faster. It's the original factory unit—I only replaced the HD, which is working great.

Is there something I am missing with the battery reconnection? Maybe it's loose?

I just want to make sure before I crack open my laptop again.

cmalec722 - Réponse

Fast battery drain problems might be due to a corrupted power manager circuit on the logic board. To reset it, remove the battery, press the power button for about 5-10 seconds, then reinstall the battery. I know the problem might have been partly due to removing the battery in the first place, but this is the procedure for resetting what might have gone wrong. It might also help to do a PRAM reset, by holding down Command-Option-P-R at power (not just from a restart), and let the Macbook chime twice after its initial powerup chime.

johnsawyercjs -

The spudger works well for detaching the connector.

skat1140 - Réponse

  • Dévissez les trois vis Torx T6 de 3,4 mm (3,1 mm) fixant le ventilateur gauche à la carte mère.

  • Sur certains modèles ces vis Torx T6 peuvent avoir une longueur de 3,1 mm.

Je vais juste vous surprendre car je suis français.

JI'll just surprise you because I am French .

I understood the problem of the left fan. In fact the problem is with the design at Apple. The fan housing is too narrow vertically a few tenths of millimeters. This is why so many problems . The left fans deteriorate very quickly.

The solution is very simple. Buy a new fan in China, it is the cheapest and level it's very fast delivery . Warning it comes fan already used but in good condition.

The thing to do is to over- raise the fan does not rub and deteriorating. To do so just buy a zinc washer 3 mm diameter available from my local hardware store ( € 3 for 70 pieces ) and place it under the black screw fully right and top right . The over- elevation leads to no longer have friction effect.

Thats ALL !!!

olivierbartoli - Réponse

on my screwdriver set, the T6 screw driver felt wobbly. It felt like I would strip the screw if not careful. So I used a T7 screw driver, and it was much more snug.

Bryan Chun - Réponse

  • Avec l'extrémité plate d'une spatule (spudger), déconnectez le connecteur du ventilateur gauche de la carte mère.

  • Il est utile de faire pivoter la spatule en dessous des câbles du ventilateur pour débrancher le connecteur.

  • La prise et le connecteur du ventilateur sont montrés sur la deuxième et troisième photo. Veillez à ne pas détacher la prise en plastique du ventilateur de la carte mère lors du retrait du connecteur de sa prise. La configuration de la carte mère de votre appareil peut différer de celle de la deuxième photo mais la prise du ventilateur est la même.

I successfully removed my right fan, cleaned it and installed it back. But when it came to the left one I accidentally broke the connector from the logic board. Now I'm left with only one functioning fan. I'm using an external laptop fan. Do I have to replace the whole logic board or can it be fixed somehow? My temp is between 90-95 C when I run a heavy game.

khalid alodan - Réponse

I made the same mistake! Did you solve it?

Rosario - Réponse

In case anyone else accidentally breaks a fan connector, check the comment on step #14. It is basically the same connection, so that should work here.

Relevant part of comment - “To replace it, I removed the socket, held it in place against the solder pads and ran a 750degF soldering iron across the pads. It's definitely reattached it, I'm not sure how good the electrical contacts are yet.”

John - Réponse

  • Ôtez le ventilateur gauche du boîtier supérieur.

Ajouter un commentaire

  • Dévissez les trois vis Torx T6 fixant le ventilateur droit au boîtier supérieur.

on my screwdriver set, the T6 screw driver felt wobbly. It felt like I would strip the screw if not careful. So I used a T7 screw driver, and it was much more snug.

Bryan Chun - Réponse

  • Avec l'extrémité plate d'une spatule (spudger), faites levier sur le connecteur du ventilateur droit pour le débrancher de sa prise sur la carte mère.

  • Il est utile de faire pivoter la spatule en dessous des câbles du ventilateur pour débrancher le connecteur.

  • Ôtez le ventilateur droit du boîtier supérieur.

There is no way to reconnect the fan cable. It looks like it was soldered onto the logic board. I disconnected it and can't reconnect it.

Has this happened to anyone else.

Vicki - Réponse

Vicki, you tore the connector off the board. They can be re-soldered if you are very careful/skilled with a soldering iron, but that is not something that you should try to do if you haven't soldered SMD components before.

rcoleskelton - Réponse

  • Avec l'extrémité plate d'une spatule, faites levier sur la nappe AirPort/Bluetooth pour la débrancher de sa prise sur la carte mère.

  • Rabattez la nappe AirPort/Bluetooth vers l'arrière pour l'écarter de la carte mère.

Ajouter un commentaire

  • Déconnectez la nappe iSight en tirant son connecteur vers l'ouverture du lecteur optique.

I was afraid to pull too hard, but wiggling it worked! :)

Mark - Réponse

  • Avec l'extrémité plate d'une spatule, faites levier sur le connecteur de la nappe du lecteur optique pour le débrancher de sa prise sur la carte mère.

  • Rabattez la nappe du lecteur optique vers l'arrière pour l'écarter de la carte mère.

hello i just installed a brand new logic board in my mac, in my mac i have replaced the cd drive with an second ssd - but when i turn the mac on, the OS cant find the second ssd, the cable is in (it clicks in) - does anybody know how to fix this or ?

Best regards Mathias

mathiastondering - Réponse

  • Avec l'extrémité plate d'une spatule, soulevez soigneusement la nappe subwoofer/haut-parleur droite pour débrancher son connecteur de la prise sur la carte mère.

Same problem as with step 11. I pried up the connector as shown and can't reconnect it. It looks like it may have been soldered to the logic board. How can this be fixed?

Vicki - Réponse

The only problem that I face on substituting the top case was when I tried to connect the subwoofer connector to the socket on the logic board. I did some tentatives but on the last the socket on the logic board I suppose unsoldered. Some suggestions?

Thanks

Paolo Sperati

paolosperati63 - Réponse

I did step 16 (disconnecting the hard drive cable) first and then came back to this step - worked for me

Colin White - Réponse

  • Avec l'extrémité plate d'une spatule, faites levier sur le connecteur de la nappe du disque dur pour le débrancher de sa prise sur la carte mère.

Ajouter un commentaire

  • Dévissez les deux courtes vis fixant la petite plaque de protection EMI à la carte mère.

  • Retirez la plaque de protection EMI de la carte mère.

Mine was stuck to the Keyboard Ribbon Cable; needed an extra pull, but it's safe and should come off - it's not attached to anything. :)

Mark - Réponse

  • Avec l'extrémité plate d'une spatule, faites levier sur le connecteur de la nappe du pavé tactile pour le débrancher de sa prise sur la carte mère.

Ajouter un commentaire

  • Avec votre ongle, ouvrez le clapet de retenue de la nappe du clavier.

  • Assurez-vous de faire levier sur le clapet de retenue rabattu et non pas sur la prise elle-même.

  • Avec la pointe d'une spatule, tirez la nappe du clavier tout droit hors de sa prise.

How will I know I have inserted the keyboard ribbon successfully? After installing a new upper case I can't seem to get the keyboard ribbon to stay in its socket. Or does the EMI sheild hold it in place?

cemcatikkas - Réponse

Ditto. It seems very tricky to reinsert the keyboard ribbon.

GrooveStomp - Réponse

I just did this - it is kinda tricky. The ribbon cable has a flap on top that is designed solely to help you coax the cable back into the socket....don't make the mistake I did and spend an hour trying to feed this flap through the socket. What worked for me was a combination of using the flap with my fingers and tweezers on the actual cable to reinsert it into the socket. Took a few tries, but I got the cable re-inserted, pressed down on the tiny locking thing, and the keyboard cable was in and secured.

dave - Réponse

Indeed, it is difficult to insert the keyboard ribbon cable. It will stop after about 1mm of insertion. It needs to go in quite a bit further. Angling it slightly, you may be able to get a corner to go in, then straighten the ribbon while applying forward pressure. I reassembled it a few times with that sinking feeling on startup before I realized that it wasn't really making contact!

dennishodge - Réponse

I've replaced the keyboard, so reinserting the ribbon was particularly tricky. After several failed attempts, here's what finally dawned on me... I took a piece of scotch tape, maybe an inch long. I folded on end on itself, maybe a quarter inch from the top. That left a sticky zone and a non-sticky zone on the tape. I taped it to the ribbon, and was able to use the tape and a "handle" to pull the ribbon into the socket. Afterwards, I carefully removed the tape without pulling the ribbon out of the socket.

Bryan Chun - Réponse

This was the hardest part for me. Be sure you flip the release flap up before removing or re-inserting.

Jonathan Daiello - Réponse

This might be obvious to some, but for those for whom it is not, this info is very important. First: only the ribbon is what needs to be pulled out (and inserted later on) not any of the black plastic casing. Second: before you try to pull the ribbon out, you need to flip up the release flap so its vertical (this is the thin black part that is located on the top edge of the black casing). If you don’t do this you will damage the casing or the ribbon or both.

Greg - Réponse

  • Avec l'extrémité plate d'une spatule, faites levier sur le connecteur du voyant de la batterie pour le débrancher de sa prise sur la carte mère.

Ajouter un commentaire

  • Saisissez la languette en plastique fixée au dispositif de verrouillage du câble de données de l'écran et pivotez-la vers le côté DC-In (prise d'alimentation) de l'ordinateur.

  • Tirez le câble de données de l'écran tout droit hors de sa prise sur la carte mère.

  • Ne soulevez pas le câble de données de l'écran vers le haut, car sa prise est très fragile. Tirez sur le câble parallèlement à la surface de la carte mère, vers le coin du boîtier supérieur.

One of the chips in this image was covered in glue. when I flipped the data cable clip, the glue plus encased chip popped right off the board. Does anyone know what chip this is? Without it, my Mac plays the startup chime, but the screen is black. The backlight is on, but it just displays black.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/befonnaz125fn9...

Jon - Réponse

I did the exact same thing. I still have the tiny chip. Is there a way to glue it back on or will I need a new logic board now?

Louis Adams - Réponse

There's a bracket / handle clip attached to the display port. I didn't know it was there and accidentally bent it off. Can't get it back on, but it seems to work OK without it.

Bryan Chun - Réponse

  • Avec la pointe d'une spatule ou votre ongle, ouvrez le clapet de retenue de la nappe du rétro-éclairage du clavier.

  • Assurez-vous de faire levier sur le clapet de retenue rabattu et non sur la prise elle-même.

  • Tirez la nappe du rétro-éclairage du clavier hors de sa prise.

I couldn’t see the flap as mine was already popped up. Try looking at it from the side to get a better view of the state of yours.

Cyrille - Réponse

  • Dévissez les vis suivantes :

    • Sept vis T6 Torx de 3,3 mm fixant la carte mère au boîtier supérieur.

    • Deux vis T6 Torx de 8 mm fixant la carte de raccordement MagSafe (DC-In) au boîtier supérieur.

  • Ne retirez pas encore la carte mère ! Il faut d'abord déconnecter quelques composants sous la carte mère, encore attachés au boîtier supérieur.

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  • Saisissez l'ensemble carte mère du côté gauche et faites-le soigneusement sortir du boîtier supérieur en veillant à ce que les ports ne restent pas accrochés au cours de la manipulation.

  • Ne retirez pas encore complètement la carte mère !

I just took one apart that had some pretty strong adhesive holding the speaker onto the upper case. I had to slip a spudger underneath and pry it up, else it was going to overly bend the mobo before it would release.

jkamis - Réponse

My board was stuck to the bottom plastic. I had to gently release it by pushing the black plastic beneath the board down, while carefully moving the board upward.

Jonathan Daiello - Réponse

  • Soulevez la carte mère de façon à y voir clair et détachez le microphone du boîtier supérieur avec une spatule.

On this step, the microphone was attached to the board so the whole unit lifted off easily.

seandodd - Réponse

Mine was too; it was part of the speaker assembly, a much better arrangement.

maccentric -

  • Faites glisser la carte mère pour l'éloigner des ouvertures des ports et retirez l'ensemble du boîtier supérieur.

  • Le plus simple est de remettre le microphone à sa place dans le haut-parleur gauche avant de réinstaller la carte mère.

  • Afin d'éviter des problèmes dus à une décharge électrostatique, veillez à poser votre carte mère sur une surface douce et anti-statique pendant que vous travaillez.

After prying off the mic from the top case and carefully lifting the logic board, I realized there was still a wire connected near the display connector, under the board. I was able to disconnect it but I'm wondering if I missed something or if this cable is missing from the instructions. The wire was connected under the board so it could not be disconnected before removing the board.

Laurent Daudelin - Réponse

This is the magsafe cable. Step 23 details removing the torx screws holding the magsafe board in place. If you remove the screws, you don't need to remove the cable.

supersuade - Réponse

  • Posez la carte mère sur une surface plane et douce, le dissipateur thermique vers le haut.

  • Retirez les six vis T6 Torx fixant le dissipateur thermique à la carte mère.

  • Gardez les petits ressorts sous chaque vis.

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  • Retirez le dissipateur thermique de la carte mère.

  • Si le dissipateur thermique semble être toujours collé sur la carte mère après le retrait des six vis, il peut être utile d'utiliser un spudger pour séparer les deux composants.

  • Si vous devez monter le dissipateur thermique sur la carte mère, nous avons un tutoriel d'application de pâte thermique qui permet de remplacer facilement ce composant thermique.

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Conclusion

Pour réassembler votre appareil, suivez ces instructions dans l'ordre inverse.

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Hello guys!! Can you help me?

I have the same MacBook Pro 2010. I want to replace the thermal compound in it.

Can I use liquid metal??? I mean, does the heat sink have aluminium metal??

Peter - Réponse

Try Gelid Solutions GC-Extreme or Arctic cooling 5, They worked very well for me

liam Carroll -

Hello!

I have a big problem with my 2010 Macbook Pro 15.

After i had done the whole procedure of pasta sink changing. I powered my Macbook Pro and it has changed everything.

It has been very very slow, it changed the Clock, the Calender, did not work mouse, just an outside bluetooth mouse. It has SSD, but it has been reall really slow. So, as it has changed the whole OS X system.

When i had done the sink changing, i have just powered on my Mac. But it is not working, as i mentioned above.

Any idea to solve this big problem?

Bests,

Adam

Adam Kovacs - Réponse

is it normal to have a clogging substance in between the heat sink and the chips?

Achille - Réponse

This is thermal paste, it help to get heat from the CPU to the heat sink. You would be best to clean up the paste that is there and apply new one.

Robbe -

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