Introduction
Le remplacement de la carte de raccordement MagSafe nécessite d'abord de retirer la carte mère.
Ce dont vous avez besoin
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Retirez les dix vis suivantes qui fixent le boîtier inférieur au boîtier supérieur :
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Trois vis cruciformes de 13,5 mm (14,1 mm).
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Sept vis cruciformes de s 3 mm.
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En vous servant des deux mains, soulevez le boîtier inférieur au niveau de la fente pour le libérer des deux clips qui le fixent au boîtier supérieur.
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Retirez le boîtier inférieur et mettez-le de côté.
16 GB is the max
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Retirez les deux vis Tri-Point de 7,4 mm par lesquelles la batterie est fixée au boîtier supérieur.
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Remarque : pour certaines réparations (disque dur, par exemple), le retrait de la batterie n'est pas indispensable, mais permet d'éviter un court-circuit accidentel sur les équipements électroniques de la carte mère. Si vous ne retirez pas la batterie, faites attention, car les composants de la carte mère peuvent être sous tension.
A 1/16th flathead screwdriver easily removes the tri-wing screws in this step. I could not find a Y0 Tri-wing driver at any local stores.
I'd like to add that for me, a 1/16th flathead screwdriver did NOT allow me to remove the tri-wing screws holding the battery in place. After several careful attempts, it became obvious I was perilously close to stripping the screw(s), so I abandoned the attempt to unscrew the tri-wing screws with a flathead screwdriver altogether. As it turned out, I didn't need to remove the battery to do what I needed to do (keyboard replacement), but it would have been a whole lot easier had the battery been easily removable.
The Tri-wing screw driver is impossible to find in retail, amazon and ebay are great bets but they vary wildly in quality... I ordered two, and both were so cheap, and barely got the job done. It could be worth getting it here. When you do get it, make sure you push, the Y0 screws were very tight in my macbook, pressing hard prevents you from stripping the Y screw.
I believe they are Y1 screws, no?
Mark -
What worked for me was actually a set of needlenose pliers - the heads on those screws aren't flush, they actually stick out enough that it's possible to turn them from the outside. Caused some scuff marks on the finish of the screws but it's not like anyone's going to see them anyway!
A tri-wing screwdriver sold as 'for Nintendo Wii' marked 'HFA 360/ x50' did the job. I replaced the screws with standard-head M2x6mm metric screws (M2 = 2 mm thread, 6 mm length of threaded part). Exactly, I took them out of an old hard-disk (with torx head and slightly shorter).
I had a cheap Tri-wing screw driver. The one that comes with the “Newertech“ battery. It did not make the job and it rather damaged the screws. Panic! I decided to buy the screwdriver sold by ifixit, the German one, not the other. At any point did I want more surprises. Yes it’s pretty expensive, but equally useful even with the screws already damaged. Thanks guys!
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Avec le bout du doigt, décollez avec soin l'angle de l'étiquette d'avertissement pour accéder à une vis Tri-point cachée.
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Retirez la dernière vis Tri-point de 7,4 mm par laquelle la batterie est fixée au boîtier supérieur.
It is not strictly necessary. As mentioned above, removing the battery is the only way to be sure that no parts of the logic board are electrified. It is very easy to replace the hard drive without removing the battery, but it is safer to remove the battery first.
Note: removing the battery can cause a hitch with OS X 10.9 Mavericks installation to a blank drive, or at least it did for me.
Disconnecting the battery makes the hardware clock reset to something like Jan 1, 2000. This causes the Mavericks installer to fail its self-check with the error message: "This copy of the Install OS X Mavericks application can't be verified. It may have been corrupted or tampered with during downloading."
To fix this, you need to open up Terminal from the Utilities menu in the bootable OS X installer environment and use the `date` command to set your Mac's clock back to the correct time before proceeding with the "Install OS X" menu selection, as described here: http://blog.mconserv.net/2013/10/install...
Thanks for that warning, Andrew.
Happened here too, thanks for the tip!
As a note, my Mid-2010 Unibody Macbook did not have this third screw, just two to remove the battery.
Can anyone answer this question. I cannot afford the entire 80 dollar repair kit listed here and the tools needed only list a spunger t6 and a phillips...it appears from some of these comments there are more drivers needed. I am afraid to do this anyway but not having the right tools off the bat will just make things more difficult while waiting for an order to come in...can someone list the exact tools I would need ? Any help would be appreciated...I am ready to order this but want to put in one order....ifixit, can you clear this up perhaps ?
One of the most important tool you should get is the head strap magnifier with lighting, it will make your viewing and capable ability much more confident.
James -
Taking the battery out is the easiest part once you have the Tri-Wing screwdriver
Ne trouvant pas de tournevis Y1, j'ai utilisé avec succès une pince électrique à bouts fins pour déserrer la vis puis j'ai terminé avec un tournevis plat très fin (1.5x35)
I stripped the Y screw! Arghhhh. Any help ideas?
new battery drains at the rate of about 10% a minute. i may have received a faulty one but i wouldn't have bought it if i knew what i know now.
Is this a battery from iFixit?
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Inclinez la batterie vers l'arrière suffisamment pour accéder au connecteur du câble de la batterie.
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Débranchez le câble de la batterie de sa prise sur la carte mère et retirez la batterie du boîtier supérieur.
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Chargez-la à 100%, puis laissez-la charger encore au moins deux heures. Utilisez votre appareil normalement. Lors de l'avertissement de batterie faible, enregistrez votre travail et laisser votre ordinateur allumé jusqu'à ce qu'il s'éteint à cause d'une batterie vide. Attendez au moins 5 heures, puis rechargez la batterie à 100% sans interruption.
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Si vous remarquez quelques chose d'inhabituel ou si vous avez des problèmes après l'installation de la nouvelle batterie, il se peut que vous deviez peut-être réinitialiser le SMC de votre MacBook.
I'm having the same problem as previous commenters: the battery now drains much faster. It's the original factory unit—I only replaced the HD, which is working great.
Is there something I am missing with the battery reconnection? Maybe it's loose?
I just want to make sure before I crack open my laptop again.
Fast battery drain problems might be due to a corrupted power manager circuit on the logic board. To reset it, remove the battery, press the power button for about 5-10 seconds, then reinstall the battery. I know the problem might have been partly due to removing the battery in the first place, but this is the procedure for resetting what might have gone wrong. It might also help to do a PRAM reset, by holding down Command-Option-P-R at power (not just from a restart), and let the Macbook chime twice after its initial powerup chime.
Buen tutorial, solo advertir una cosa: los tornillos de la batería (Tri-point), en mi caso estaban muy duros.. atención si se usan destornilladores baratos.. mucho cuidado porque puedes dejar el tornillo imposible de extraer..
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Dévissez les trois vis Torx T6 de 3,4 mm (3,1 mm) fixant le ventilateur gauche à la carte mère.
Je vais juste vous surprendre car je suis français.
JI'll just surprise you because I am French .
I understood the problem of the left fan. In fact the problem is with the design at Apple. The fan housing is too narrow vertically a few tenths of millimeters. This is why so many problems . The left fans deteriorate very quickly.
The solution is very simple. Buy a new fan in China, it is the cheapest and level it's very fast delivery . Warning it comes fan already used but in good condition.
The thing to do is to over- raise the fan does not rub and deteriorating. To do so just buy a zinc washer 3 mm diameter available from my local hardware store ( € 3 for 70 pieces ) and place it under the black screw fully right and top right . The over- elevation leads to no longer have friction effect.
Thats ALL !!!
on my screwdriver set, the T6 screw driver felt wobbly. It felt like I would strip the screw if not careful. So I used a T7 screw driver, and it was much more snug.
Same here. T6 did not fit at all. Too small.
Bummer. Will have to screw my MBP back together and get a T7 on Monday…
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Avec l'extrémité plate d'une spatule (spudger), déconnectez le connecteur du ventilateur gauche de la carte mère.
I successfully removed my right fan, cleaned it and installed it back. But when it came to the left one I accidentally broke the connector from the logic board. Now I'm left with only one functioning fan. I'm using an external laptop fan. Do I have to replace the whole logic board or can it be fixed somehow? My temp is between 90-95 C when I run a heavy game.
In case anyone else accidentally breaks a fan connector, check the comment on step #14. It is basically the same connection, so that should work here.
Relevant part of comment - “To replace it, I removed the socket, held it in place against the solder pads and ran a 750degF soldering iron across the pads. It's definitely reattached it, I'm not sure how good the electrical contacts are yet.”
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Ôtez le ventilateur gauche du boîtier supérieur.
If you’re just looking to remove fluff that can block the fan outlets, you don’t need to disconnect fan power connector from the logic board header (Step 6) - the fans on my MacBook Pro kept spinning up to max speed (6200rpm) so I removed the three T6 Torx screws (Step 5) and carefully lifted the fan to oneside removed the fluff with a toothpick and replaced the fan and screws — repeated this for both left and right fans
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Dévissez les trois vis Torx T6 fixant le ventilateur droit au boîtier supérieur.
on my screwdriver set, the T6 screw driver felt wobbly. It felt like I would strip the screw if not careful. So I used a T7 screw driver, and it was much more snug.
Same here. T6 did not fit at all. Too small.
Bummer. Will have to screw my MBP back together and get a T7 on Monday…
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Avec l'extrémité plate d'une spatule (spudger), faites levier sur le connecteur du ventilateur droit pour le débrancher de sa prise sur la carte mère.
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Ôtez le ventilateur droit du boîtier supérieur.
Vicki, you tore the connector off the board. They can be re-soldered if you are very careful/skilled with a soldering iron, but that is not something that you should try to do if you haven't soldered SMD components before.
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Déconnectez la nappe iSight en tirant son connecteur vers l'ouverture du lecteur optique.
This is NOT good advice, ifixit! You should never pull a cable but rather pull or push its connector. In this case, it went well for me the first time, but the second time I pulled the cable out of its connector and now my iSight camera is not working anymore. Thanks, ifixit. Not!
Rather, use plastic (so you don’t short-circuit anything) tweezers or two tooth-picks or so and push the connector out of its socket.
That’s actually who it’s described in Apples repair manual for this device that — I think — I also found on this webpage somewhere.
So: PUSH, don’t pull!
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Avec l'extrémité plate d'une spatule, faites levier sur le connecteur de la nappe du lecteur optique pour le débrancher de sa prise sur la carte mère.
hello i just installed a brand new logic board in my mac, in my mac i have replaced the cd drive with an second ssd - but when i turn the mac on, the OS cant find the second ssd, the cable is in (it clicks in) - does anybody know how to fix this or ?
Best regards Mathias
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Avec l'extrémité plate d'une spatule, soulevez soigneusement la nappe subwoofer/haut-parleur droite pour débrancher son connecteur de la prise sur la carte mère.
The only problem that I face on substituting the top case was when I tried to connect the subwoofer connector to the socket on the logic board. I did some tentatives but on the last the socket on the logic board I suppose unsoldered. Some suggestions?
Thanks
Paolo Sperati
I did step 16 (disconnecting the hard drive cable) first and then came back to this step - worked for me
This connector is just like the ones used for the fans (but has a cushion-like protection over it). Just take it apart just like in steps 8 and 11.
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Dévissez les deux courtes vis fixant la petite plaque de protection EMI à la carte mère.
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Retirez la plaque de protection EMI de la carte mère.
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Avec votre ongle, ouvrez le clapet de retenue de la nappe du clavier.
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Avec la pointe d'une spatule, tirez la nappe du clavier tout droit hors de sa prise.
How will I know I have inserted the keyboard ribbon successfully? After installing a new upper case I can't seem to get the keyboard ribbon to stay in its socket. Or does the EMI sheild hold it in place?
Ditto. It seems very tricky to reinsert the keyboard ribbon.
I just did this - it is kinda tricky. The ribbon cable has a flap on top that is designed solely to help you coax the cable back into the socket....don't make the mistake I did and spend an hour trying to feed this flap through the socket. What worked for me was a combination of using the flap with my fingers and tweezers on the actual cable to reinsert it into the socket. Took a few tries, but I got the cable re-inserted, pressed down on the tiny locking thing, and the keyboard cable was in and secured.
Indeed, it is difficult to insert the keyboard ribbon cable. It will stop after about 1mm of insertion. It needs to go in quite a bit further. Angling it slightly, you may be able to get a corner to go in, then straighten the ribbon while applying forward pressure. I reassembled it a few times with that sinking feeling on startup before I realized that it wasn't really making contact!
I've replaced the keyboard, so reinserting the ribbon was particularly tricky. After several failed attempts, here's what finally dawned on me... I took a piece of scotch tape, maybe an inch long. I folded on end on itself, maybe a quarter inch from the top. That left a sticky zone and a non-sticky zone on the tape. I taped it to the ribbon, and was able to use the tape and a "handle" to pull the ribbon into the socket. Afterwards, I carefully removed the tape without pulling the ribbon out of the socket.
This was the hardest part for me. Be sure you flip the release flap up before removing or re-inserting.
This might be obvious to some, but for those for whom it is not, this info is very important. First: only the ribbon is what needs to be pulled out (and inserted later on) not any of the black plastic casing. Second: before you try to pull the ribbon out, you need to flip up the release flap so its vertical (this is the thin black part that is located on the top edge of the black casing). If you don’t do this you will damage the casing or the ribbon or both.
Vraiment dommage que ce point de blocage très sensible ne soit pas plus développer, il peut compromettre tout le travail et l’état de la machine, c’est la grosse erreur de ce tuto.
Pour l’instant, je ne suis pas parvenu à retirer ce connecteur et je crains que l’impatience me fasse commettre une erreur irréparable.
the flap mentionned is the plastic part the most far to the ribbon, not the part where the finger seem to be pulling. The flap comes off easily.
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Avec l'extrémité plate d'une spatule, faites levier sur le connecteur du voyant de la batterie pour le débrancher de sa prise sur la carte mère.
Can anyone tell me what the little gold-colored button or switch is on the left side of the cab let connector?
On mine, the plastic tab was almost completely hidden under some fabric-like tape on top of connector.
Make sure to grab only the glossy plastic tab and pull it up, which rotates upward a metal hinge on the removable part of the connector. That metal hinge is then used as a handle to pull the connector straight out (flat) toward MagSafe.
I didn’t see the plastic tab, and first pulled up the tape. That caused the metal hinge to pop off. Upon close inspection, it was easy to see where the hinge attached at each end to the top assembly. whew!
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Saisissez la languette en plastique fixée au dispositif de verrouillage du câble de données de l'écran et pivotez-la vers le côté DC-In (prise d'alimentation) de l'ordinateur.
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Tirez le câble de données de l'écran tout droit hors de sa prise sur la carte mère.
One of the chips in this image was covered in glue. when I flipped the data cable clip, the glue plus encased chip popped right off the board. Does anyone know what chip this is? Without it, my Mac plays the startup chime, but the screen is black. The backlight is on, but it just displays black.
I did the exact same thing. I still have the tiny chip. Is there a way to glue it back on or will I need a new logic board now?
There's a bracket / handle clip attached to the display port. I didn't know it was there and accidentally bent it off. Can't get it back on, but it seems to work OK without it.
The pull tab has a small rectangular frame. I used this to gently pull out the plug with both hands, rather than pulling on the cable like in the photo. This worked well.
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Avec la pointe d'une spatule ou votre ongle, ouvrez le clapet de retenue de la nappe du rétro-éclairage du clavier.
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Tirez la nappe du rétro-éclairage du clavier hors de sa prise.
broke it! be really careful
I did too. The whole connector actually popped off the board. Were you able to fix yours?
Dylan -
I posted a question on this as well. I have an Early 2013 Macbook Retina, and I accidentally popped off the flex cable connectors to the fans. From doing some research, it seems like you can solder it back on but I have no experience in that. Would anyone know where to start, and where to get the tools?
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Saisissez l'ensemble carte mère du côté gauche et faites-le soigneusement sortir du boîtier supérieur en veillant à ce que les ports ne restent pas accrochés au cours de la manipulation.
My board was stuck to the bottom plastic. I had to gently release it by pushing the black plastic beneath the board down, while carefully moving the board upward.
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Soulevez la carte mère de façon à y voir clair et détachez le microphone du boîtier supérieur avec une spatule.
On this step, the microphone was attached to the board so the whole unit lifted off easily.
Mine was too; it was part of the speaker assembly, a much better arrangement.
me too on model number A1286
mid 2009
15 inch
I have a Mid 2010 15 inch and had one more connection in the corner that needed to be removed, so be careful!!
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Faites glisser la carte mère pour l'éloigner des ouvertures des ports et retirez l'ensemble du boîtier supérieur.
After prying off the mic from the top case and carefully lifting the logic board, I realized there was still a wire connected near the display connector, under the board. I was able to disconnect it but I'm wondering if I missed something or if this cable is missing from the instructions. The wire was connected under the board so it could not be disconnected before removing the board.
This is the magsafe cable. Step 23 details removing the torx screws holding the magsafe board in place. If you remove the screws, you don't need to remove the cable.
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Déconnectez la carte de raccordement MagSafe en tirant sa nappe vers le dissipateur thermique.
I was trying to unplug the cord of the mega safe card and I broke two components near to that in the logic board I think are fuse, but I really don´t know what are, any body knows what kind of components are? and if I get that components it is possible to weld it again to the logic board, the problems was when I plug the mega safe cord, the battery won´t charge, I think that two components its for make that working, any help, thank you all!!!
the two components are near to the thumb of the guy in the last picture step 23. thanks....
"Pull parallel" means to slide the connector out, do not lift and pull.
Use flat edge of spudger on the ack edge of the plug to slide the connector out.
Uh, this power entry module is not exactly the same as the OEM unit. it appears that the mounting hole on the side closest the keyboard is offset by about 1/8" - This isn't good. Any suggestions from the field on what to do next? Thanks, Chris
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Pour remonter votre ordinateur, suivez les instructions dans le sens inverse.
Pour remonter votre ordinateur, suivez les instructions dans le sens inverse.
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4 commentaires
Excellent walkthrough! This was my first ifixit repair and I was able to successfully replace my damaged magsafe board. The 64-Bit driver kit was the perfect companion to this project and the many more that will come in the future.
Thanks for your help! I think something on the mainboard is toast and the computer is a total loss, but it was worth it to take a chance and see if the cheap mag board would fix it. Good guide!
Good guide - gave me the confidence to have a go - thanks - I would say to others be very gentle with the cable connectors - mine weren’t exactly the same type as shown in the guide - be patient and you’ll work it out.
I did the same procedure yesterday replacing a malfunction on magsafe board, just before signing up for Fixit and viewing this document. The walkthrough depicted here is really detailed and very well done. Excellent.
Step 1 (technically step 9 - replacing the base plate) Apparently one of my screws was a micron or two smaller than the others. This screw belongs to the hole above the optical drive, which is also apparently a couple of microns smaller than the others. It took seven attempts to figure which screw had originally been in that hole; all the other screws were too large, but fitted perfectly everywhere else.
Bizarre much?
Will - Réponse
It might be a matter of how the screws are driven in, and not that they're slightly different sizes. When I reassembled my MacBook, a couple of the screws, including the one over the optical drive you mention, were hard to drive in and jutted up a little bit instead of sitting entirely flush. Swapping screws didn't help. The solution was to unscrew them and drive them in at a bit of an angle - perpendicular to the slightly curved surface of the back plate where the screw holes were, instead of fully vertical with respect to the ground the Macbook is sitting on. Doing it that way, the screws were easier to drive in and they all ended up flush in their holes. Didn't matter which screws they were. (I swapped a few around just to check after reading this.)
Andrew Janke -
I had no such screw issues. Either there are differences in manufacturing lots or I just got incredibly lucky during reassembly!
xtophr -
I discovered a great way of organizing the screws. I used an ice cube tray and added the screws in order, keeping the different kinds together. So when it came to reversing the steps, the screw order was an added control step to returning everything in its place.
leonie - Réponse
Great advise! Love it! :)
Ririds -
I used to do that and that worked really great until I bumped it by accident and the entire tray went on the rug! I spent the next day sorting things out.
Now I use these:
http://www.sciplus.com/p/50-114-CLEAR-PL...
The lower ones 50 to a package. I mark them w/ blue tape. Often if it's part like the fans, or the optical drive I'll tape the screws into/near the holes where they belong. I did this a lot especially w/ the bottom screws from MBPs until I'd done so many I knew exactly where the longer ones went.
Richard Sato -
I wrapped the screws in a piece of blue masking tape and wrote the number on the little pouch I made. Then I stuck the blue tape pouches on the underside of the case bottom in order.
Roscoe -
I take double-sided tape, put that on a piece of paper, stick the crews to that, and label them.
jelimoore -
Best I've found is a bead sorting tray. They're like $5 at Wal-Mart and they have a lid that seals up and won't let them jump between containers.
maccentric -
I take a sheet of paper, pierce the screws through the paper, take a pen and box the screws and write out what step they belong to.
Nils -
@Will, in my case I had the same result as you did. As a reminder to myself the next time I need to open the computer, I put a dot of white paint on those two screw's head and a very, very thin ring of white on the very edge of each hole, that way I'll know they go into those two holes.
Roger - Réponse
Actually the four screws on the bottom were not threaded all the way up. I didn't check to see if the thread gauge was the same on them, but it wasn't until I had about four screws out (I didn't take them out in the order that the bottom all came out first) that I noticed a difference. I then took out the rest of the bottom ones to see if they matched the two that were already out that weren't threaded to the top. They did. So I went under the assumption that those were all bottom screws and when I put it back together everything went fine with no resistance.
So there are three types of screws: Four for the bottom, three long ones as indicated and three others that might be slightly smaller than the bottom ones.
wresnick - Réponse
Hi,
Although its more than a year since your contribution, I thought you might be amused to know that it is not just that the screws go in more easily when at an angle, Apple actually drilled and tapped the holes at a 15% angle. I too had tried to drive them in straight. An Apple "genius" - I was in for something else - clarified the design for me. It was done so that the screws lay flush on the angled part of the lower case. Nice design, but since Apple encourages DIY memory and drive changes, they could have mentioned this little ... trap.
H Stahl -
MacBookPro8,2
Intel Core i7, 2,2 GHz, RAM 16 GB
Mountain Lion
May someone help me?
I have installed the second drive with ssd 840 evo, but when I try to copy the file from the new drive to the main hd this in not allowed (errore -36)
Piero - Réponse
To my knowledge you can't transfer a single file more than 4gb. I advise compressing to a bunch of rars to split the file size and moving them individually
1982sketcher -
Hey everyone, here's the very best way to PERFECTLY organize your screws AND keep track of the order of the procedure: Get a piece of plain corrugated cardboard and a pen (I like using a Sharpie). For EACH step of the disassembly, draw a simple diagram of the layout of the computer on the piece of cardboard, with dots or Xs where the screws are located. Right after you remove each screw from the computer, poke a hole in the cardboard in its corresponding diagram position with your screwdriver and place the screw in that hole. If there are other non-screw related parts to be removed, you can add notes below each step diagram to remind you of where they go or how they should be placed. This cardboard method is great not only because your screws will not go flying or get mixed up by accident if bumped, but each screw goes EXACTLY back where it came from and you can keep the cardboard as a template for future use if necessary!
- zerø K
zeroK - Réponse
a video of these steps
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SS9is40C...
julie56 - Réponse
These instructions worked great for me. I ordered a replacement battery from Key Power (on Amazon) for my 15" Macbook Pro (mid-2010). Cost was $74 shipped.
Battery came with 3 different screwdrivers to help with installation. I just needed the one size though, since my 2010 seemed to use all the same size screws.
Thanks!
Marcos - Réponse
During re-assembling (put the screws back in), it is important to note that the 3mm threaded holes are not completely vertical, but bent a little bit such that the hole direction is rectangular to the tapered surface. The force of the screwdriver must point towards the direction of the hole. Otherwise the screw gets jammed
kusi - Réponse
There is a FOOLPROOF WAY TO ORGANIZE ALL SCREWS and other parts removed.
Print the repair guide.
Yes, the actual photo of the bottom of the laptop with the circles around the screws.
When you remove the screw, tape it to the photograph.
You will tape the screw to the exact location that you just removed it from.
Same thing with any part you remove.
splashzoneent - Réponse
Thanks Splash!!! I used your suggested method, and it was perfect: kept all my screws, and i was able to, very easily, put them back in their correct place. I greatly appreciated your feedback. Thank you for sharing!!
Tommy Kedar -
Thank you!!! This worked fabulously - even the I.T. people at my workplace were excited as they never thought to do that before. Replacing the battery took about 10 minutes!
nclarke36 -
Worked like a charm! Took less than 20 minutes.
It's Oct. 2015, and the fan cost me about $10. it was the same brand/model...
SUNON MG62090V1-Q020-S99 .
SOME TRICKS -
1- no T6 screwdriver- was careful using needle nose players to loosen 2 screws protruding up, then use a small phillips to push real hard into the T6 slots, SLOWLY turn , also used a small flat head screwdriver (for eye glass repair) was able to grab thread on T6's, made a small mark with screw driver across the top so I could see when it started to turn.
2- no spudger -made one; cut a little strip 1/2" x 1 1/2" of plastic. couldn't get it to slide under plug, there's an edge where plug fits. so lifted old fan out, pulled upward on the plug it popped right out with very little effort. I used my home made spudger to push the new plug into place.
3- download free "Macs Fan Control" This is how I was alerted to the fan not working in the first place. Program shows temperature of all key components in the computer.
cheers- Durango CO!
Dgodrummer - Réponse
Watch the video first, read the entire tutorial and all the comments before you start, and spread a white towel on the floor so you can find screws when you drop them. Watch this first -- http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qiBxhA29e...
kevicoll409 - Réponse
The link above is no longer available.
Kristina Graham -
I will be buying a battery from you and using your instructions. I just installed a new CD/DVD using your instructions and 1) I feel like I owe you something and 2) Although more expensive, I have the confidence your battery will work. My current battery is the original with 1399 cycles in 7.2 yrs. A tech buddy had bought me a replacement and I installed it. I had just installed a new OS and the kernel_task went going nuts, using 90% of the CPU. Hours on the phone with Apple did not resolve the issue. On a whim, I put the old battery back in and Voila! But I cannot risk my battery swelling and going south on me. I am also going to buy your installation tools. Yeah, I already have them. But you can never have enough tools…or beer. And you don’t sell beer.
Pete Banks - Réponse
The instructions say that I am removing PH00 screws. I found that my MBP, mid ‘12, Retina has pentalobe screws instead!
jsandersonq - Réponse
This laptop definitely originally shipped with Phillips screws—but, Apple has been known to replace Phillips screws with pentalobes when one of their devices is brought in for service. Sorry for the rude surprise! Fortunately the correct driver is easy to find nowadays. [Blatant self-promotion alert!] If you support free repair manuals, consider picking one up from iFixit. Good luck!
Jeff Suovanen -
Me, too, and it’s plausible that this machine has been serviced by Apple in the past, replacing the screws as Jeff Suovanen suggests.
iFixit shipped a pentalobe bit with the kit, but it’s too large for the actual screws, so it looks like I now need to get another bit. But what size?
Jeff’s link is to a driver with a P5 bit, and that page links to a P2 screwdriver, but since I don’t know what size I actually need (and I don’t have a micrometer to hand) I’m reluctant to buy two on spec.
Norman Gray -
(The bit in the kit appears to be a P6, so I’m inclined to order a P5 and see what happens)
Norman Gray -
You’re using the wrong repair guide. This guide is for the 2012 NON-Retina MBP. You have a Retina MBP. The stock case screws in the 2012 NON-Retina are all Phillips, just as the guide says.
Steven Wymor -
To keep track of screws, I used the suggestions above by taping a photo of the lower case to a piece of corrugated cardboard and inserting/taping the screws in place. Also, as some have noted, the screws go back in at a slight angle; they are angled toward the center of the unit.
Kristina Graham - Réponse
If your vision, like mine, is getting too fuzzy to be able to distinguish between a tiny Phillips screwdriver and a tiny Tri screwdriver, there’s an easy way. With a Phillips (or a Pozidrive) you can get two opposite wings to reflect the light from a lamp or window straight towards your eye at the same time. With a Tri (or Penta) you can only get one wing to reflect at a time, however much you twiddle it.
Alan Waller - Réponse
There’s a very easy way to avoid cross-threading a screw thread, any size.
Put the screw into its hole and start by turning it gently, slowly BACKWARDS. When you hear a little “Click!” sound, the male thread has just passed the opening in the female thread and is in exactly the right position to enter into it correctly when you start to turn in the correct forward direction.
Remember, all drivers except hex (Allen key) and TorX need pressure to avoid slipping out and damaging the head. So even when you want to turn it in with LOW moment/torque, keep the CONTACT PRESSURE high.
Alan Waller - Réponse
The keep the pressure on is on point. In my case once I loosened my first screw I thought I could relief my initial pressure. It was a mistake. I was doing the whole thing very slowly as a precaution. That helped me notice that the Phillips screw driver was sliding up out of the screw head. Not being sure why, I put pressure back on the screw driver until almost all the screw was out of the hole. Once out, I examined closely to find out that the threads have some sort of coating. It looks to me like some kind of locktite. Then I understood the importance of keeping the pressure on all the way through. It made me uneasy having to keep so much pressure on such tiny screws, but I found it was the only way to prevent damage to the “slots” on the heads. Anyway, all of them suffered some degree of damage, but I was able to successfully remove them and reinstall all of them back in their original holes.
Martin Mejia -
After reading this page on iFixit several times, I just could not face all the work of replacing the Logic Boards on two MacBookPro 2011s even if I was prepared to pay approx 400 USD (which I wasn’t). Then I read the reviews of a couple of folks who’d stripped down their machines and put their logic boards in the oven and, it worked! I wondered, if I just used my new Steinel Hot Air Tool (heat gun in my language) recently delivered from iFixit, on the logic board in-situ, without removing it? So I removed the battery, hard drive, and RAM and unplugged all the leads I could see WITHOUT removing anything else physically. Then using the 500 degrees set on the gun (setting 2) I ‘played’ the gun over the logic board for about 60 seconds on machine one with the restart problem (plus latterly, not completing start-up). Long story short… it worked! I spent a long time getting the s/w to load, but the commentary is too short to let me relate that part… ping me if I can help you do the same! blackaye@gmail.com
Ian Black - Réponse