Cette version peut contenir des modifications incorrectes. Passez au dernier aperçu vérifié.
Introduction
Vous pouvez installer des disques durs d'une épaisseur maximale de 9,5 mm.
Ce dont vous avez besoin
-
-
Utilisez vos doigts pour pousser les deux onglets de libération de la batterie et retirez la batterie de l'ordinateur.
-
-
-
Retirez les quatre vis Phillips 3,4 mm identiques à partir de la trappe de la mémoire. Ces vis ont 4 mm de diamètre de tête au lieu de 3 mm sur les vis du corps.
-
-
-
Retirez les trois vis cruciformes situées dans le compartiment de la batterie, près du loquet. Apple a eu la gentillesse d'incliner légèrement ces vis pour les rendre plus faciles à retirer. Sur le A1261, ces vis ont des têtes de 4 mm de diamètre au lieu des têtes de 3 mm des vis restantes.
To Damon - possibly the thread on the bottom of the upper case is obstructed.
I found that I needed to fight the latch magnet with the right-most screw in the photo. The screw was pulled away from the hole so a magnetized screwdriver was not enough to place it. I needed tweezers to hold the screw in place until it bit.
No, these screws won’t bite going back in — struggled for an hour. Lost hope of success.
Case screw holes perfectly lined-up, neatly closed body, screw threads/head are fine (Apple quality screws), perfect screwdriver.
The left one is in, other two simply will not bite whatsoever. Slightly irritating eventually turned to madly infuriating. I have a similar, earlier model and that was smooth to replace these exact, slightly angled screws (so I have experience).
Q: Are the centre and right-hand screws absolutely essential — or can I give up and leave them out?
(By the time you read this, that’s what I’ll have done)(out of sheer frustration)
-
-
-
Retirez les six vis suivantes :
-
Deux vis Torx T6 de 14,5 mm de part et d'autre du compartiment de la RAM.
-
Quatre vis cruciformes de 3,4 mm le long de la charnière.
These instructions are actually wrong. The 14.5 mm screws are for along the hinge, the 2 on either side of the RAM slot are about 10 mm.
-
-
-
Retirez les quatre vis cruciformes de 3,4 mm sur le côté des ports de l'ordinateur.
When reassembling, please be careful not to screw into the wrong spot. I accidentally screwed into the DVI port and it was hard to remove the screw after that. I had to disassemble the whole thing again, only to find that I couldn't remove the screw from within as it was encased. After much scraping and prodding with a sewing needle, I was able to get that screw out. Phew!
-
-
-
-
Soulevez l'arrière du boîtier et faites glisser vos doigts le long des côtés, en détachant le boîtier au fur et à mesure. Une fois que vous avez détaché les côtés, vous devrez peut-être faire basculer le boîtier de haut en bas pour détacher l'avant du boîtier supérieur.
Be very careful not to bend the screw tabs on the top case the perimeter screws attach to. Bending them causes them to quickly fatigue and potentially break off. When reassembling the top case, be sure the tabs are all *inside* the case before reseating it. If you get resistance, pull the case back up, check the tabs and reseat the top case again.
-
-
-
Débranchez la nappe du pavé tactile et du clavier de sa prise sur la carte mère.
-
Retirez le boîtier supérieur.
Disconnecting this cable is optional, if instead you tip up the top case ~75 degrees, propping it up with something non-metalic (wedged in or by the battery compartment). Unplugging a connector from the main circuit board always carries slight additional risk.
It's not really necessary to disconnect the trackboard/keyboard ribbon cable. You can simply lean the upper case against the LCD.
After having successfully removed/reattached the ribbon cable several times while trying to revive this computer for back-up use the securing/release tabs on the connector broke. The connector then will not hold the cable properly and connecting fails. Tried various methods of propping the cable in the connector to get full contact but eventually all efforts failed, too. Result: essentially a dead motherboard as no replacement for the connector seems available. Sadly, not worth the extra effort to try further repairs.
-
-
Cette étape n’est pas traduite. Aidez à la traduire
-
Peel up the orange ribbon cable taped to the top of the hard drive. This cable is still connected to the hard drive, so you will only be able to lift up on the cable a little.
HELP! The orange ribbon cable taped to the top of the hard drive came disconnected from the left side of the hard drive space. How do I reconnect it?
-
-
Cette étape n’est pas traduite. Aidez à la traduire
-
Remove the two T6 Torx screws securing the hard drive retaining bracket to the lower case.
-
-
Cette étape n’est pas traduite. Aidez à la traduire
-
Lift the hard drive retaining bracket up and out of the computer.
-
-
Cette étape n’est pas traduite. Aidez à la traduire
-
Lift the hard drive by tilting it from the right hand side, then lift it gently out of the lower case.
-
If present, remove the piece of tape holding the hard drive connector in its socket on the hard drive.
Tape is on the top and bottom of the HD.
-
-
Cette étape n’est pas traduite. Aidez à la traduire
-
Disconnect the hard drive cable by pulling its connector away from the hard drive.
On some models there is tape holding the connector onto the drive. You will need to carefully remove this before the connector can be detached.
-
-
-
Retirez les deux vis Torx T6 argentées et les cales en caoutchouc blanc (ou noir) du côté droit du disque dur.
Care should be taken to avoid squeezing the hard drive cover (especially in the area over the platters). It is best to only hold it edgewise and never as shown in the photos.
-
-
-
Retirez les deux vis Torx T6 argentées du côté gauche du disque dur (les cales en caoutchouc restent dans le boîtier pour le côté gauche du disque).
HELP! My enclosure does Not just slip off or anything when i remove the 4 screws!!!!!!
Its not supposed to. Just the screws and the bumper.
Rohan -
Don't forget, new drives need to have a partition created on them before it being recognized by the mac for OSX installation. Boot the installation CD and when it loads, select "Disk Utility" and create a new partition, then it will recognize and show the hard disk so you may select it for installation of OSX.
-
Pour réassembler votre appareil, suivez ces instructions dans l'ordre inverse.
Pour réassembler votre appareil, suivez ces instructions dans l'ordre inverse.
Annulation : je n'ai pas terminé ce tutoriel.
634 autres ont terminé cette réparation.
Merci à ces traducteurs :
100%
Ces traducteurs nous aident réparer le monde ! Vous voulez contribuer ?
Commencez à traduire ›
19 commentaires
On my A1212, all four rubber bumpers were attached to the hard drive.
While this is listed as moderate difficulty, I think it's on the easy side of moderate. If you're used to replacing PC parts, it won't be a problem. Worst problem is dealing with tiny screws with my big hands. I used SuperDuper to clone the drive before swapping.
Actually the tools you only need are the T6-Torx and the Phillips screwdrivers. Everything else is optional for this operation. By the way: thank you, for the guidance! :)
Excellent guide. For anyone who's replaced PC parts before the job is a piece of cake. Tip: Use a muffin tin to put the screws from each step in a different muffin hole in order. Easy to reassemble. I used SuperDuper to clone the new drive.
Just replaced my old HD with a Corsair Force LX SSD (which is SATA 1-3 compatible as required by this model) with success now my old 'outdated' laptop has super fast loading times and is postively flying faster than the speed of 'sound'. Thanks for the guide. Only problem I faced was replacing the top panel which after a few minutes of panic realised the rubber mounted Mic next to the left speaker had risen up when I had removed the top panel so after carefully pushing it back into place the panel fitted back how it should, so beware of this possible problem.
Rather than a HD, I installed a 240 GIG SSD. As I key this in, I'm installing Mavericks on this 2007 MBP's new SSD..
Your instructions were (as you must know) right on the mark. Your photos were accurate and easy to view. You helped make what I thought was going to be a bit of a tough job, very enjoyable and easy to accomplish. Thank you for positing the information. - Gary
Very good instructions. Thank you.
This was very helpful to me as I upgraded to an SSD.
why would you use this laptop on a daily basis? its more than 10 years old! i bought one so i could have it in my macbook collection, not to use it everyday as my daily driver.
It could be used as a daily primary computersimply because it works and for what most people do at home, nothing else is really needed.
I completely agree with Glenn Thompson.
Thanks to a very detailed instructions, I did it with no problem. I might take “with no problem” back, once I try to reinstall a new hard drive. But, so far, so good.
If you allow me, please pay attention to required tools. It’s listed at the beginning of those instructions. Cause I didn’t. Very important! Also remember to or take a notes where all these screws coming from :))
thanks a million!
•The first time my A1261 was taken apart someone else did it and we ended up with three clips, not knowing where they go. Since then I’ve taken it apart myself a few times and it looks like they are what the three 3.4mm phillips that go diagonally in the battery case screw into. However, if I try to do this, one of them obstructs the hard drive bracket. Any clues? Otherwise, I don’t know why those three screws need to come out. Seems like their function is to hold on the clips, not hold the case together.
•The four phillips on the bottom of the computer, near the hinge, are LONG. 14mm. In the instructions it says they are 3.4mm.
•I always end up with an extra TINY screw- approx. 2.5mm phillips. Does anyone know where this goes?
•It would help if the guide said that ALL of the screws on the sides and back are 3.4mm. It only mentions the length for the port side.
Very helpful guide, but here are a few comments /suggestions.
a) If a T6 driver is unavailable, and you’re determined enough, you can use a 1/16” Allen wrench (as I did).
b) In Step 9, the first sentence should say “Lift up the back of the upper case…”, and explain what is meant by “the upper case” (i.e. “the panel containing the keyboard”, not the part with the display).
c) In Step 9 explain that the back edge of the “upper case” is held by two retainers that are able to “hinge” it upward, so it’s okay to gently force it to bend there if it’s stiff (at first I was terrified to do that). Also explain that the two screws on the rear of the computer tighten into these two retainers, and that the retainers must be bent back down perpendicular in order for the case to be reassembled.
d) If you have a clothespin or miniature Pony clamp (or two), Step 10 is totally unnecessary. Just clamp the “upper case” in position that allows the ribbon connector to stay connected.
e) Steps 16 and 17 can be done with pliers.
I wonder what the maximum capacity of SSD this computer could possibly support? Such as 4TB?
Before upgrading to a larger HD, you'll want to "clone" your original HD using the donation-ware program "Carbon Copy Cloner" (http://www.bombich.com/). Put the new HD in an external case; clone the original; test the clone (by starting up with it), then take apart the MacBook to put the new HD in the MacBook, and the original in the external case for use as a backup, etc. (You can't just drag the contents of the original HD to the new HD, and expect it to work; not since the days of OS 9 and before.)
amiller770 - Réponse
Can I put more than two gigabytes of RAM in?
Noah Nsangou - Réponse
mine has 2g*2=4 gb ram in. you should be fine
on mac forum it suggested to put 4gb and a 2gb in a1261.
david -
I made the mistake of wanting to do a clean install of OS and start fresh after installing a SSD. Now I can't install most browsers on OSX Leopard. Does anyone know what is the most current version of OS I can put on this system? (disk or download) Can I get to Snow or Lion?
2006 17" MackBook Pro Model#A1151
2.16 GHz Intel Core Duo
Memory: Two 1GB 667 MHz
Hard Drive: Corsair Force GS: SSD 128GB
scannon - Réponse
You can install OS X 10.7 LION and no later version. Although LION runs ok with 2GB RAM it does help to get 1GB + 2GB = 3GB. Even if you install 2 X 4GB you will only utilize 3GB. Installing a SSD seems to make no difference since the SATA bus is only 1.5GB/s. A good 5400rpm disk is good enough. I even run BootCamp and Windows 7. Works fine. Not fast but fine. My A1212 refuses to die :-)
asle -
There seems to be some discrepancy about whether or not installing a SSD will help. See Phil's earlier comment from October 2015: there, *he* claims that having an SSD increases the load times significantly, (even though -- of course -- 1.5Gbps is not ideal)...
His quotation, (re-)cited integrally:
Just replaced my old HD with a Corsair Force LX SSD (which is SATA 1-3 compatible as required by this model) with success now my old 'outdated' laptop has super fast loading times and is postively flying faster than the speed of 'sound'. Thanks for the guide. Only problem I faced was replacing the top panel which after a few minutes of panic realised the rubber mounted Mic next to the left speaker had risen up when I had removed the top panel so after carefully pushing it back into place the panel fitted back how it should, so beware of this possible problem.
Phil - 10/07/2015
at0gjm -
Bonjour j'ai besoin de cette bactérie que dois-je faire ?
basile kouamé YAO - Réponse