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Remplacement du disque dur du MacBook Pro 17" modèles A1151 A1212 A1229 et A1261

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  1. Remplacement du disque dur du MacBook Pro 17" modèles A1151 A1212 A1229 et A1261, Batterie: étape 1, image 1 de 1
    • Utilisez vos doigts pour pousser les deux onglets de libération de la batterie et retirez la batterie de l'ordinateur.

    Before upgrading to a larger HD, you'll want to "clone" your original HD using the donation-ware program "Carbon Copy Cloner" (http://www.bombich.com/). Put the new HD in an external case; clone the original; test the clone (by starting up with it), then take apart the MacBook to put the new HD in the MacBook, and the original in the external case for use as a backup, etc. (You can't just drag the contents of the original HD to the new HD, and expect it to work; not since the days of OS 9 and before.)

    amiller770 - Réponse

    Can I put more than two gigabytes of RAM in?

    Noah Nsangou - Réponse

    mine has 2g*2=4 gb ram in. you should be fine

    on mac forum it suggested to put 4gb and a 2gb in a1261.

    david -

    I made the mistake of wanting to do a clean install of OS and start fresh after installing a SSD. Now I can't install most browsers on OSX Leopard. Does anyone know what is the most current version of OS I can put on this system? (disk or download) Can I get to Snow or Lion?

    2006 17" MackBook Pro Model#A1151

    2.16 GHz Intel Core Duo

    Memory: Two 1GB 667 MHz

    Hard Drive: Corsair Force GS: SSD 128GB

    scannon - Réponse

    You can install OS X 10.7 LION and no later version. Although LION runs ok with 2GB RAM it does help to get 1GB + 2GB = 3GB. Even if you install 2 X 4GB you will only utilize 3GB. Installing a SSD seems to make no difference since the SATA bus is only 1.5GB/s. A good 5400rpm disk is good enough. I even run BootCamp and Windows 7. Works fine. Not fast but fine. My A1212 refuses to die :-)

    asle -

    There seems to be some discrepancy about whether or not installing a SSD will help. See Phil's earlier comment from October 2015: there, *he* claims that having an SSD increases the load times significantly, (even though -- of course -- 1.5Gbps is not ideal)...

    His quotation, (re-)cited integrally:

    Just replaced my old HD with a Corsair Force LX SSD (which is SATA 1-3 compatible as required by this model) with success now my old 'outdated' laptop has super fast loading times and is postively flying faster than the speed of 'sound'. Thanks for the guide. Only problem I faced was replacing the top panel which after a few minutes of panic realised the rubber mounted Mic next to the left speaker had risen up when I had removed the top panel so after carefully pushing it back into place the panel fitted back how it should, so beware of this possible problem.

    Phil - 10/07/2015

    at0gjm -

    Bonjour j'ai besoin de cette bactérie que dois-je faire ?

    basile kouamé YAO - Réponse

  2. Remplacement du disque dur du MacBook Pro 17" modèles A1151 A1212 A1229 et A1261, Trappe de la mémoire: étape 2, image 1 de 1
    • Retirez les quatre vis Phillips 3,4 mm identiques à partir de la trappe de la mémoire. Ces vis ont 4 mm de diamètre de tête au lieu de 3 mm sur les vis du corps.

  3. Remplacement du disque dur du MacBook Pro 17" modèles A1151 A1212 A1229 et A1261: étape 3, image 1 de 1
    • Soulevez la trappe de la mémoire assez pour pouvoir la saisir, faites-la glisser vers vous pour la tirer loin du boitier.

  4. Remplacement du disque dur du MacBook Pro 17" modèles A1151 A1212 A1229 et A1261, Boîtier supérieur: étape 4, image 1 de 1
    • Retirez les trois vis cruciformes situées dans le compartiment de la batterie, près du loquet. Apple a eu la gentillesse d'incliner légèrement ces vis pour les rendre plus faciles à retirer. Sur le A1261, ces vis ont des têtes de 4 mm de diamètre au lieu des têtes de 3 mm des vis restantes.

    One of the screws here wouldn't bite going back in. I'm 100% certain it's the same screw that came out of it but it wouldn't bite going back, neither would any of the other two in this section in that particular hole.

    Damon B - Réponse

    To Damon - possibly the thread on the bottom of the upper case is obstructed.

    I found that I needed to fight the latch magnet with the right-most screw in the photo. The screw was pulled away from the hole so a magnetized screwdriver was not enough to place it. I needed tweezers to hold the screw in place until it bit.

    Yishai Sered - Réponse

    No, these screws won’t bite going back in — struggled for an hour. Lost hope of success.

    Case screw holes perfectly lined-up, neatly closed body, screw threads/head are fine (Apple quality screws), perfect screwdriver.

    The left one is in, other two simply will not bite whatsoever. Slightly irritating eventually turned to madly infuriating. I have a similar, earlier model and that was smooth to replace these exact, slightly angled screws (so I have experience).

    Q: Are the centre and right-hand screws absolutely essential — or can I give up and leave them out?

    (By the time you read this, that’s what I’ll have done)(out of sheer frustration)

    Steve Arkwright - Réponse

  5. Remplacement du disque dur du MacBook Pro 17" modèles A1151 A1212 A1229 et A1261: étape 5, image 1 de 1
    • Retirez les six vis suivantes :

    • Deux vis Torx T6 de 14,5 mm de part et d'autre du compartiment de la RAM.

    • Quatre vis cruciformes de 3,4 mm le long de la charnière.

    Note for re-assembly: For the hinge use the longest four Phillips screws.

    R L - Réponse

    The Philips screws in Step 5 are longer than the other Philips screws. Would be better if the instructions differentiated them. Otherwise it is possible to use the wrong screws in Step 7 when reassembling.

    Alex - Réponse

    These instructions are actually wrong. The 14.5 mm screws are for along the hinge, the 2 on either side of the RAM slot are about 10 mm.

    Andrew Patterson - Réponse

  6. Remplacement du disque dur du MacBook Pro 17" modèles A1151 A1212 A1229 et A1261: étape 6, image 1 de 1
    • Retirez les quatre vis cruciformes de 3,4 mm sur le côté des ports de l'ordinateur.

    When reassembling, please be careful not to screw into the wrong spot. I accidentally screwed into the DVI port and it was hard to remove the screw after that. I had to disassemble the whole thing again, only to find that I couldn't remove the screw from within as it was encased. After much scraping and prodding with a sewing needle, I was able to get that screw out. Phew!

    isotope434 - Réponse

  7. Remplacement du disque dur du MacBook Pro 17" modèles A1151 A1212 A1229 et A1261: étape 7, image 1 de 1
    • Faites pivoter l'ordinateur de 90 degrés et retirez les deux vis cruciformes à l'arrière de l'ordinateur.

    Screw on the right is shorter

    mikefal - Réponse

    What are these two screws called?

    ian - Réponse

  8. Remplacement du disque dur du MacBook Pro 17" modèles A1151 A1212 A1229 et A1261: étape 8, image 1 de 1
    • Faites de nouveau pivoter l'ordinateur de 90 degrés et retirez les quatre vis cruciformes sur le côté de l'ordinateur.

  9. Remplacement du disque dur du MacBook Pro 17" modèles A1151 A1212 A1229 et A1261: étape 9, image 1 de 1
    • Ne retirez pas le boîtier supérieur d'un coup sec. Le boîtier est relié à la carte mère par une nappe.

    • Soulevez l'arrière du boîtier et faites glisser vos doigts le long des côtés, en détachant le boîtier au fur et à mesure. Une fois que vous avez détaché les côtés, vous devrez peut-être faire basculer le boîtier de haut en bas pour détacher l'avant du boîtier supérieur.

    WOW this step is very hard!!! its a serious suction cup..

    nya - Réponse

    Once the upper case is free...Carefully tilt the upper case from the front towards the screen as their is a ribbon cable directly beneath the keyboard and trackpad that will need to be removed in the next step.

    Troy - Réponse

    Be very careful not to bend the screw tabs on the top case the perimeter screws attach to. Bending them causes them to quickly fatigue and potentially break off. When reassembling the top case, be sure the tabs are all *inside* the case before reseating it. If you get resistance, pull the case back up, check the tabs and reseat the top case again.

    Sheldon Carpenter - Réponse

  10. Remplacement du disque dur du MacBook Pro 17" modèles A1151 A1212 A1229 et A1261: étape 10, image 1 de 1
    • Débranchez la nappe du pavé tactile et du clavier de sa prise sur la carte mère.

    • Retirez le boîtier supérieur.

    Disconnecting this cable is optional, if instead you tip up the top case ~75 degrees, propping it up with something non-metalic (wedged in or by the battery compartment). Unplugging a connector from the main circuit board always carries slight additional risk.

    amiller770 - Réponse

    It's not really necessary to disconnect the trackboard/keyboard ribbon cable. You can simply lean the upper case against the LCD.

    Russ Greene - Réponse

    how reconnect this cable?

    anatole - Réponse

    I did this with and without step 10 (removing the upper case with detached cable). Removing the cable is risk, putting it back on was not so easy. But then, leaning the keyboard part against the LCD while replacing the hard drive is also risky.

    tobybaier - Réponse

    After having successfully removed/reattached the ribbon cable several times while trying to revive this computer for back-up use the securing/release tabs on the connector broke. The connector then will not hold the cable properly and connecting fails. Tried various methods of propping the cable in the connector to get full contact but eventually all efforts failed, too. Result: essentially a dead motherboard as no replacement for the connector seems available. Sadly, not worth the extra effort to try further repairs.

    Steve colton - Réponse

  11. Cette étape n’est pas traduite. Aidez à la traduire

    Remplacement du disque dur du MacBook Pro 17" modèles A1151 A1212 A1229 et A1261: étape 11, image 1 de 1
    • Peel up the orange ribbon cable taped to the top of the hard drive. This cable is still connected to the hard drive, so you will only be able to lift up on the cable a little.

    HELP! The orange ribbon cable taped to the top of the hard drive came disconnected from the left side of the hard drive space. How do I reconnect it?

    Jillybeanz - Réponse

  12. Cette étape n’est pas traduite. Aidez à la traduire

    Remplacement du disque dur du MacBook Pro 17" modèles A1151 A1212 A1229 et A1261: étape 12, image 1 de 1
    • Remove the two T6 Torx screws securing the hard drive retaining bracket to the lower case.

  13. Cette étape n’est pas traduite. Aidez à la traduire

    Remplacement du disque dur du MacBook Pro 17" modèles A1151 A1212 A1229 et A1261: étape 13, image 1 de 1
    • Lift the hard drive retaining bracket up and out of the computer.

  14. Cette étape n’est pas traduite. Aidez à la traduire

    Remplacement du disque dur du MacBook Pro 17" modèles A1151 A1212 A1229 et A1261: étape 14, image 1 de 1
    • Lift the hard drive by tilting it from the right hand side, then lift it gently out of the lower case.

    • If present, remove the piece of tape holding the hard drive connector in its socket on the hard drive.

    Tape is on the top and bottom of the HD.

    amiller770 - Réponse

    Note that the tape could be present on both sides of the drive...Be sure to check the underside of the drive as well.

    Troy - Réponse

    hah! After yanking on my SATA cable for a good 5 minutes, did I notice the tape on the bottom. Thanks,

    Bryan -

    Note that the tape could be present on both sides of the drive..Be sure to check the underside as well.

    Troy - Réponse

  15. Cette étape n’est pas traduite. Aidez à la traduire

    Remplacement du disque dur du MacBook Pro 17" modèles A1151 A1212 A1229 et A1261: étape 15, image 1 de 1
    • Disconnect the hard drive cable by pulling its connector away from the hard drive.

    On some models there is tape holding the connector onto the drive. You will need to carefully remove this before the connector can be detached.

    Paul Kroitor - Réponse

  16. Remplacement du disque dur du MacBook Pro 17" modèles A1151 A1212 A1229 et A1261, Disque dur: étape 16, image 1 de 1
    • Retirez les deux vis Torx T6 argentées et les cales en caoutchouc blanc (ou noir) du côté droit du disque dur.

    • Vous devrez transférer ces vis et ces cales sur votre nouveau disque dur si vous changez de disque. Veillez à les placer sur le côté droit du disque quand vous regardez le bout de l'étiquette avec le connecteur SATA.

    Care should be taken to avoid squeezing the hard drive cover (especially in the area over the platters). It is best to only hold it edgewise and never as shown in the photos.

    Vernon Johnson - Réponse

  17. Remplacement du disque dur du MacBook Pro 17" modèles A1151 A1212 A1229 et A1261: étape 17, image 1 de 1
    • Retirez les deux vis Torx T6 argentées du côté gauche du disque dur (les cales en caoutchouc restent dans le boîtier pour le côté gauche du disque).

    • Vous devrez transférer ces vis sur votre nouveau disque dur si vous changez de disque.

    • Si vous installez un nouveau disque dur, nous avons un tutoriel d'installation d'OS X qui vous permettra de le rendre opérationnel.

    HELP! My enclosure does Not just slip off or anything when i remove the 4 screws!!!!!!

    Brandon William - Réponse

    Its not supposed to. Just the screws and the bumper.

    Rohan -

    Don't forget, new drives need to have a partition created on them before it being recognized by the mac for OSX installation. Boot the installation CD and when it loads, select "Disk Utility" and create a new partition, then it will recognize and show the hard disk so you may select it for installation of OSX.

    theonlyexpert - Réponse

Conclusion

Pour réassembler votre appareil, suivez ces instructions dans l'ordre inverse.

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iRobot

Membre depuis le 09/24/09

1 Réputation

636 tutoriels rédigés

19 commentaires

On my A1212, all four rubber bumpers were attached to the hard drive.

michael leahy - Réponse

While this is listed as moderate difficulty, I think it's on the easy side of moderate. If you're used to replacing PC parts, it won't be a problem. Worst problem is dealing with tiny screws with my big hands. I used SuperDuper to clone the drive before swapping.

glenthompson - Réponse

Actually, you can install hard drives up to 12mm thick

spsantos - Réponse

Actually the tools you only need are the T6-Torx and the Phillips screwdrivers. Everything else is optional for this operation. By the way: thank you, for the guidance! :)

azolee1848 - Réponse

Excellent guide. For anyone who's replaced PC parts before the job is a piece of cake. Tip: Use a muffin tin to put the screws from each step in a different muffin hole in order. Easy to reassemble. I used SuperDuper to clone the new drive.

Bill Carpenter - Réponse

Just replaced my old HD with a Corsair Force LX SSD (which is SATA 1-3 compatible as required by this model) with success now my old 'outdated' laptop has super fast loading times and is postively flying faster than the speed of 'sound'. Thanks for the guide. Only problem I faced was replacing the top panel which after a few minutes of panic realised the rubber mounted Mic next to the left speaker had risen up when I had removed the top panel so after carefully pushing it back into place the panel fitted back how it should, so beware of this possible problem.

Phil - Réponse

Rather than a HD, I installed a 240 GIG SSD. As I key this in, I'm installing Mavericks on this 2007 MBP's new SSD..

Your instructions were (as you must know) right on the mark. Your photos were accurate and easy to view. You helped make what I thought was going to be a bit of a tough job, very enjoyable and easy to accomplish. Thank you for positing the information. - Gary

Gary Lauterback - Réponse

Very good instructions. Thank you.

gerry duniec - Réponse

This was very helpful to me as I upgraded to an SSD.

Pastor Jason - Réponse

why would you use this laptop on a daily basis? its more than 10 years old! i bought one so i could have it in my macbook collection, not to use it everyday as my daily driver.

JCRGH - Réponse

It could be used as a daily primary computersimply because it works and for what most people do at home, nothing else is really needed.

wrgalovich -

I have an audio interface from this era - 2008 - an Alesis IO-16 - which requires a Firewire connection and it also only works with the Mac Operating System Version from this era hence I need to get a MacBookPro from this era up and running.

Keith Oehme - May 2018

keoehme - Réponse

I completely agree with Glenn Thompson.

Thanks to a very detailed instructions, I did it with no problem. I might take “with no problem” back, once I try to reinstall a new hard drive. But, so far, so good.

If you allow me, please pay attention to required tools. It’s listed at the beginning of those instructions. Cause I didn’t. Very important! Also remember to or take a notes where all these screws coming from :))

thanks a million!

Ivanka Savic - Réponse

Does anyone know where I can purchase the rubber bumpers?

conrad - Réponse

•The first time my A1261 was taken apart someone else did it and we ended up with three clips, not knowing where they go. Since then I’ve taken it apart myself a few times and it looks like they are what the three 3.4mm phillips that go diagonally in the battery case screw into. However, if I try to do this, one of them obstructs the hard drive bracket. Any clues? Otherwise, I don’t know why those three screws need to come out. Seems like their function is to hold on the clips, not hold the case together.

•The four phillips on the bottom of the computer, near the hinge, are LONG. 14mm. In the instructions it says they are 3.4mm.

•I always end up with an extra TINY screw- approx. 2.5mm phillips. Does anyone know where this goes?

•It would help if the guide said that ALL of the screws on the sides and back are 3.4mm. It only mentions the length for the port side.

Mollie Dash - Réponse

Very helpful guide, but here are a few comments /suggestions.

a) If a T6 driver is unavailable, and you’re determined enough, you can use a 1/16” Allen wrench (as I did).

b) In Step 9, the first sentence should say “Lift up the back of the upper case…”, and explain what is meant by “the upper case” (i.e. “the panel containing the keyboard”, not the part with the display).

c) In Step 9 explain that the back edge of the “upper case” is held by two retainers that are able to “hinge” it upward, so it’s okay to gently force it to bend there if it’s stiff (at first I was terrified to do that). Also explain that the two screws on the rear of the computer tighten into these two retainers, and that the retainers must be bent back down perpendicular in order for the case to be reassembled.

d) If you have a clothespin or miniature Pony clamp (or two), Step 10 is totally unnecessary. Just clamp the “upper case” in position that allows the ribbon connector to stay connected.

e) Steps 16 and 17 can be done with pliers.

D Matthis - Réponse

Thank you!

I had a great time taking care of this procedure. My old MacBook Pro has a new SSD and now is faster.

Manuel - Réponse

Over the years I used this lovely guide numerous times. My dear MBP17 is getting an SSD today!

Thanks a lot for this guide!

yaneevt - Réponse

I wonder what the maximum capacity of SSD this computer could possibly support? Such as 4TB?

Yongfan Men - Réponse

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