Introduction
Un écran LCD fissuré, ce n'est pas drôle du tout. Les couleurs sont bizarres, l'affichage ne fonctionne pas, c'est une très mauvaise expérience. Les mystérieuses lignes blanches et les écrans décolorés peuvent s'arranger, si on remplace l'écran LCD. Ce tutoriel vous y aidera.
Ce dont vous avez besoin
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Retirez les dix vis suivantes, fixant le boîtier inférieur au boîtier supérieur :
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Trois vis Phillips 13,5 mm.
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Sept vis Phillips 3 mm.
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Calez vos doigts entre le boîtier inférieur et l'évent, et soulevez pour libérer les deux clips qui maintiennent le boîtier inférieur sur le boîtier supérieur.
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Lors du réassemblage, alignez soigneusement le boîtier inférieur, puis appuyez fermement dessus jusqu'à ce que les deux clips s'enclenchent.
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Retirez le boîtier.
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Si elle est présente, saisissez la languette en plastique attachée au connecteur de la batterie et tirez-la vers le bord avant de l'appareil. Pour les modèles fin 2011, le connecteur de batterie n'a pas de languette mais simplement une prise qui s'insère directement dans la carte mère - pour la retirer, tirez-la vers le haut.
This step is a little difficult in reverse, that is, when re-attaching the battery. It helps to tilt the laptop up so you can see the edge of the board that accepts the plug. It may look like there are two slots for it, it goes in the bigger slot that is further away from the board.
Is this step really necessary? It is not part of the instructions how to replace the HDD in Apple's User Manual of the 2011 17" MBP.
As it says in the step: "Whenever working near the logic board, it is always wise to first disconnect the battery to avoid short circuits." It is not required, but it is simple insurance to avoid a $1000+ repair should you accidentally short components on the board with something metal.
There was no tab on my model. Battery is affixed to board and screws must be removed.
Mine also, and looks as if removing connector could damage motherboard.
Stephen -
The battery on my 17” mid-2010 (MC024LL/A -A1297 ) is held by 3 specialty screws CR-V1 (3-wings similar to Mercedes-Benz tri-star)
It has a tab which I pulled straight up
The connector to the motherboard came away easily by pulling toward the front edge.
* There is no tab on the A1297 (late 2011) model's battery connector. Be careful with the connector, it chips off the edges easily! Otherwise the same as bhodges2 & Stephen's notes.
** (Pleas also include the exact Model and Part numbers like P/N: MD311D/A; Mod.: A1297 in the comments and notes for your MBP)
Why are there no guides for the Late 2011 17" MacBook Pro A1297 (2.4GHz i7 quad core, MD311LL/A)??? I just replaced the RAM in mine and discovered that not only is there no tab on the battery connector, but the connector pulls straight up, perpendicular to the logic board, rather than parallel. I almost ripped the wires out of the connector by trying to pull it out parallel to the logic board like this guide instructed! After finally getting it out, my advice to those with the Late 2011 model is to use a spudger to loosen the edges of the connector then lift the connector straight up to get it out safely.
I replaced the display on my late 2011 model and noticed that it was quite different than the tutorial given here so I detailed all the differences to help others with late-2011 models on my blog: http://johnfixesstuff.blogspot.com/2014/...
jmueller -
With some dexterity and carefulness, the MagSafe could be removed from its place without the need to remove the whole logic board!
Same here, I used a head-band light to see it and got it done without removing anything but the battery connection, the charging port and the display data cable. Then I had to do it again because amazone sent me the wrong charging port, the board has different width between screw holes, and on closer look, different components soldered on, also. AND, one is labeled 2008, the other 2009… make sure you get the correct one, the other ( “wrong”? ) might work, but I’m not risking it! So why does the 2008 fit in my 17” macbook pro(5,2) mid-2009 and the one labeled 2009 does not fit ? It is what it is…
The battery on my 17” mid-2010 (MC024LL/A -A1297 ) is held by 3 specialty screws CR-V1 (3-wings similar to Mercedes-Benz tri-star)
It has a tab which I pulled straight up
The connector to the motherboard came away easily by pulling toward the front edge.
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Avec la pointe d'une spatule (spudger), poussez le petit dispositif d'attache en plastique hors de la prise de la nappe de la caméra, de façon à y voir clair quand vous retirez cette nappe.
I think I should have a photo of the plastic retainer as there may be more people like me who were afraid to take the part.
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Tirez délicatement la nappe Bluetooth vers les ventilateurs pour la déconnecter de la carte Bluetooth.
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Dévissez les deux vis extérieures Torx T6 de 6,8 mm fixant chacune des deux fixations de l'écran (quatre vis au total).
I viewed a YouTube video showing this process. There was a warning about the stripping of the Torx screws being common on this mid-2009 model MBP. Is that something you have come ever across? It's the only thing holding me back from attempting this myself. TY in advance!
Taking those hinge screws out can be difficult (they are fat, and they resist turning). In my first attempt I destroyed the Torx screwdriver bit (soft metal, I discovered, so the bit twisted into a corkscrew before it snapped off). After buying the ifixit screwdriver set I found that the driver bits were tough enough, but the screws still would not budge! So, I used a small mole-grip wrench to hold the metal part of the screwdriver, and GENTLY turned until I felt the screw give way with a click. Luckily, the threads did not strip. However, if you find that even with that extra torque from the wrench, it is still resisting in a big way, go one more step and try a very tiny drop of thread-loosening fluid on it. (That last suggestion, however, is risky, so be careful.... do not let any fluid get anywhere except the screw, and then give it time to work).
RichardL -
What's the url to the youtube video you mentioned?
Too late. I should have read the comments first but I was rushing. I just stripped two of them. They are in there super tight.
I just did this now (11:21 am, Sept 18 2014) A tip for removing glass bezel on the frame if you don't have a heat gun. I used a very sharp but super thin razor (the one for shaving) and slice the adhesive. Be careful not to hit the lcd. After slicing all around, get any thin plastic card and slide it all around the bezel until the glass comes off. I have a mid 09 macbook pro 17" that had a broken lcd and a 2010 macbook pro i7 17" that had a logic board problem but good lcd. Both A1297. I did it twice using my method.
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Saisissez le boîtier supérieur de votre main droite et faites-le légèrement pivoter vers le haut de l'écran de sorte que la fixation supérieure de l'écran s'éloigne du bord du boîtier supérieur.
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Faites pivoter et éloignez légèrement l'écran du boîtier supérieur.
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Soulevez et éloignez l'écran du boîtier supérieur en veillant à ce que ni les fixations ni les nappes ne restent accrochées.
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Lors du remontage, mettez l'écran en place et installez les vis Torx de la fixation d'écran, puis fermez l'écran et posez l'ordinateur portable à l'envers pour vérifier l'alignement de l'écran avec le reste de l'ordinateur. Si nécessaire, desserrez les vis et réalignez l'écran avant de les resserrer.
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Insérez un outil en plastique sous le joint en caoutchouc noir dans le coin supérieur gauche de l'ensemble écran.
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Soulevez délicatement le coin du joint au-dessus du boîtier arrière.
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Avant de commencer, veillez à nettoyer la vitre avec un chiffon non pelucheux humidifié avec une solution lavante douce ; cela permettra à la ventouse à levier de mieux adhérer et à vous de vérifier plus facilement l'absence de poussière lors du remontage.
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Réglez le pistolet à air chaud à température basse et commencez à chauffer la bordure extérieure noire, du côté du coin supérieur droit de l'écran.
I didn’t want to wake people in the house at midnight with a heat gun so i tried something else and it worked fantastically well.
1) i used an oil-filled electric radiator and set it to high
2) I put a small box (about 6 x 9”) on that radiator
3) i put the display face-down on the box ; the box deflects the heat to the edges and slowly heats the edges to a nice hot temp not too hot.
4) I used 4 credit cards as i didn’t have guitar picks. I was able to do all four sides with one heating process.
I was still able to touch the surface it was probably under 180° (the magic temp that virtually any electronic device can survive).
I’ve used toaster ovens to preheat an iPad for screen removal; this works much better it only heated the edge.
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Une fois que la vitre a été suffisamment chauffée, fixez une ventouse à levier à côté du coin supérieur droit de la vitre.
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Si vous utilisez une de nos ventouses, posez-la, la poignée mobile parallèle à la surface de la vitre. Puis, tout en appuyant légèrement la ventouse sur la vitre, relevez la poignée mobile jusqu'à ce qu'elle soit parallèle à l'autre poignée.
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Soulevez délicatement le coin de la vitre de façon à insérer un médiator de guitare entre elle et l'ensemble écran.
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Avec le médiator, faites céder délicatement la colle fixant la vitre avant à l'écran.
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Soulevez la vitre le long du bord droit de l'écran jusqu'au milieu.
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Laissez le médiator en place au milieu du bord droit de l'écran et enlevez la ventouse.
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Avec un pistolet à air chaud, faites ramollir la colle sous la vitre le long des bords droit et supérieur de l'écran.
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Fixez une ventouse à levier du coin supérieur droit de la vitre avant.
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Soulevez la vitre pendant que vous la séparez du reste de l'ensemble écran avec un autre médiator de guitare.
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Progressez le long du bord droit de la vitre avant jusqu'à ce qu'il soit séparé de l'écran.
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En tenant fermement le cache charnière, faites-le glisser vers la charnière droite de l'écran.
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En soulevant le bord gauche du cache charnière, faites-le doucement balancer d'arrière en avant sur son long axe pendant que vous l'ôtez de l'écran.
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Ôtez le cache charnière de l'écran, en évitant qu'une nappe ne reste accroché.
How the he'll do I get it back on?
How the he'll do you get the cover back on?
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Dévissez les quatre vis cruciformes #00 de 2,3 mm fixant l'écran LCD à la coque arrière de l'écran.
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Soulevez un des coins supérieurs du panneau LCD hors de la coque arrière à l'aide d'un outil en plastique.
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Saisissez les deux coins supérieurs du LCD et faites-le pivoter vers le haut et légèrement hors de l'écran.
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Tirez le LCD vers le haut du panneau de l'écran en dégageant les tarauds de vis sous la coque arrière de l'écran.
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Pour remonter votre ordinateur, suivez ces instructions en sens inverse.
Pour remonter votre ordinateur, suivez ces instructions en sens inverse.
Annulation : je n'ai pas terminé ce tutoriel.
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8 commentaires
As much a question as a comment. I have the antiglare version of this MBP which has a 10mm aluminium surround on the screen (it isn't listed on the MBP page) so this guide only applies, as far as I can tell, up to step 16.
As I'm not sure how things progress from there on, I think I'll not venture so far.
There is a guide for the 15" MacBook Pro that illustrates replacing the matte screen. In fact, you can pretty much follow that guide all the way through for the 17" as well. There are a few differences but not enough to trip you up.
Replacing the screen, the only trouble I encountered was with the front bezel. Be EXTRA careful when removing the bezel so that you don't warp/bend/crease it in any manner. Use generous amounts of heat and take the extra time. If the bezel does become out of shape, it will be difficult to glue it back on to the lid.
Hope that helps.
nunchukS -
April 30, 2016 - My Mid-2010 17" Macbook Pro Unibody (A1297) 6,2 did not look like the pictures shown in this guide. Starting at the step where the Bluetooth Cable is removed.
Where can I get a version of this LCD Replacement that matches my laptop? What other info is needed to determine?
Thanks,
Bill Fulbright
I find it quite annoying that apple uses rubber which deteriorates in warm climates. All my cables from them fall apart in about a year. Today i noticed the rubber seal around my Macbook Pro 2015 started to come loose in a corner.
I have a question, more than a comment. I am following this guide and the 15” guide because I have the bezel around my screen, but I am unable to get the screws out of the bracket holding my monitor in place. I broke two T6 bits trying. Does anyone know where I can source out new screws to replace the ones I’m going to need to drill out?
Nice detailed explanation. We use all Mac at our place SITARA FOODS, a home made pickle maker from India. It's pretty evident to that atleast 1 Mac break in span of 3 months. It is super expensive to replace the screens. Now after going through this guide I have asked one of my employee to but the screen on ebay along with necessary tools and fix it in office itself. We can save good money using your guide here.
important to reassemble the "lower case" successfully: the threads of the seven 3mm phillips screws are drilled at an angle :-/
mysterioes - Réponse
Same issue with me. After reassembling my 13-inch and my 17-inch, one of the screws are sticking out ever so slightly. Very annoying, especially since I scratch whatever surface I'm on now.
Kyle Spadaro -
Very important note; this guide is NOT correct for the Macbook Pro 17" A1297 late '11.
The A1297 has an assembly adjacent to the optical drive, identifiable by 4 antenna connectors, 1 usb cable (with very small connector) and one PCI-e flat cable running across the optical drive.
I did not take pictures, but found one on the web. I'm very new to iFixit and have no idea yet on how to create a guide, but here's the picture showing the assembly on top (this pic only has 3 antenna wires, the A1297 has 4, but at least you'll know what to look for.
- carefully undo all connections and 2 screws
- remove the assembly and flip it over
- again carefully remove the shielding tape
- undo 3 tiny screws
- gently pry the airport card from the assembly (the flat cable will be a bit of a pain)
- reverse process with replacement card.
image can be found here:
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/2446...
Remon - Réponse
It helps if you mark the holes where the long screws go so you can easily find them when the time comes to button things up. Also, a little dish or custard cup to hold those tiny screws is essential.
Human - Réponse
3 x 13.5 mm screws are actually TWO different types! Return to EXACT SAME HOLES.
-I discovered this on my mid-2010, but from comments, sounds like it may affect other models as well
2 x 13.5 mm screws are pointed ends
1 x 13.5 mm screw is a FLAT end <- CORNER HOLE
These areTWO slightly different lengths, and must return to correct holes. If you put the flat end screw in the wrong hole, it will stick out slightly. If you put either of the pointed screws in the wrong hole, they will go in all the way, but will not catch threads, and will simply fall out when laptop is flipped back over.
scottbernardis - Réponse
I printed out the image above and taped each screw to the photo as I removed each one, just to make sure I put them in the right location.
Grace Morris - Réponse
This is a brilliant suggestion! I did this for all the steps that involved removing screws, numbered the sheets, and that made it very easy to put it all back together in reverse. Thanks!
Steve Adamczyk -
Be sure to use Loctite on the screws when re-attaching the bottom of the computer. The screws can and will fall out once they have been removed for repairs if you do not put Loctite on them when you reuse them. Otherwise, purchase new screws before repairing the computer as the new screws come with Loctite material on them. (I have personal experience with this problem.)
johnpartridge - Réponse
Be sure NOT to Buy this Battery from iFixit. I bought it from eustore.ifixit.com and the Condition of Battery is : Service Battery ,
from the &&^&^$^ first day.
Till today my battery Cycle Count is: 80.
I’ve tried everything as: Battery Calibration, resetting the SMC, PRAM, reinstalling the battery,
and Service Battery warning still there.
Just DO NOT BUY crappy, trash from here.
I have very bad experience.
Doruntin Koci - Réponse
Hi Doruntin,
we’re more than sorry to hear about your bad experience.
I’ll inform our customer service team who’ll reach out to you and offer either a replacement or reimbursement.
If ever you’d need assistance again, please feel free to directly write to eustore@ifixit.com, as comments are not regularly checked for service issues.
I’m confident that we’ll find the solution that suits you best!
Sandra Hiller -
PLEASE OBSERVE: The image of the left speaker used is NOT for a 2011 model. A 17inch MacBook Pro A1297 - LEFT SPEAKER + MICROPHONE - 2011 has IDENTIFYING NUMBER: Apple Part #:922-9821, 922-9822. And its COMPATIBILITY: 17 inch MacBook Pro Unibody A1297 - Early 2011 MC725LL/A 2.2 i7 - Early 2011 MC725LL/A 2.3 i7 - Late 2011 MD311LL/A 2.4 i7 - Late 2011 MD311LL/A 2.5 i7
kenneth krabat - Réponse