Introduction
Avec ce tutoriel, remplacez une vitre avant d'écran cassée. Il est nécessaire de retirer cette vitre pour accéder à l'écran LCD.
Ce dont vous avez besoin
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Boîtier fermé, placez l'Unibody à l'envers sur une surface plane.
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Appuyez sur le côté rainuré du loquet de déverrouillage de la trappe d'accès de manière à saisir l'extrémité libre du loquet. Soulevez le loquet de déverrouillage à la verticale.
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Tirez sur la languette en plastique blanc et retirez la batterie de votre MacBook Unibody.
Great tutorial ! great step !
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Retirez les huit vis suivantes par lesquelles le boîtier inférieur est fixé au châssis :
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Une vis Phillips 3 mm.
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Trois vis Phillips 13,5 mm.
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Quatre vis Phillips 3,5 mm.
Make sure you have a good quality Phillips screwdriver. Mine had removable tips and had a small play at the connection. As a result I didn't have a good feel and damaged my screws (those securing the fan and the top left in step 23). Game over for me installing new thermal paste...
Be very carefull with your screws! Especially those on the inside.
You can get away with a Phillips #00 for many of the screws involved but the 4 at the bottom case split are likely to strip if you don’t use a JIS #00 or, in a pinch, a Phillips #000.
I used the Phillips #00 tip from my Pro Tech Toolkit, and it worked well enough. But yes, maybe #000 might have been better on the lower row of screws. Note to myself: Always read the comments first.
When replacing these screws, the order to replace them in is as follows:
1, Top left
2. Top right
3. Top center-left
4. Top center-right
5. Bottom center-right
6. Bottom center-left
7. Bottom right
8. Bottom left
I hope this information is helpful.
I followed my usual process of putting in all the screws loosely, then tightening them gradually in distributed pattern, to help ensure that the panel settles in place evenly. But maybe some orders are better.
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En vous servant des deux mains, soulevez le boîtier inférieur et retirez-le du boîtier supérieur.
Thanks for the guide!
It's implicit in the two photos, but worth mentioning because it blocked my progress in this step for a bit: You have to put the release latch back into its horizontal, closed position before you can lift off the lower-case panel.
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Déconnectez la nappe de la caméra en tirant l'extrémité mâle tout droit hors de la prise.
Be EXTREMELY careful when removing and re-inserting the 'camera' cable. The contacts can be easily bent beyond repair if you try to force it back in. Damaging this cable at this connection or near the display may disable your ability to use your iSight camera, AND both your Bluetooth and WiFi. I had to pay apple $300 to replace the entire display assembly because one prong was faulty, causing my WiFi card to not be recognized.
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Dégagez le câble de données de l'écran du canal dans le lecteur optique.
Although I ordered the screen for an A1278 MacBook Unibody Aluminum, the screen glass was marked as a MacBook Pro. The iSight/WiFi /BT cable was about an inch longer than the Macbook one and took a bit of creative re-routing, but everything works fine.
has it got the airport and bluetooth modules built in separately in the display assembly as in the macbook late 2008 and mbp mid 2009?
fericcio -
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Dévissez les vis suivantes, fixant le câble de données de l'écran et le haut-parleur droit au boîtier supérieur :
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Une vis cruciforme de 9,9 mm partiellement filetée
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Une vis cruciforme filetée de 9,6 mm
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Une vis cruciforme de 4 mm
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Faites glissez la fixation de la nappe de la caméra hors de son emplacement sous le caisson de basse et ôtez-la de l'ordinateur.
My model has different bracket, you need to remove the subwoofer first
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Saisissez la languette en plastique fixée au dispositif de verrouillage du câble de données de l'écran et pivotez-la vers le côté DC-In (prise d'alimentation) de l'ordinateur.
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Tirez le connecteur du câble de données de l'écran tout droit hors de sa prise.
i can't understand what I need to do in this step, I'm afraid with this step, i think i can "hurt" my mac and i don't want to do that, anyone knows what i need to do?
Thanks
There is a steel 'latch' that flips over from the left side of the connector, to the right side. After you flip this latch over, the cable will easily slide out.
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Dévissez les deux vis suivantes, attachant la fixation du câble de données de l'écran :
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Une vis cruciforme de 7 mm.
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Une vis cruciforme de 5 mm.
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Soulevez la fixation du câble de données de l'écran hors du boîtier supérieur.
Note for Step 10 during reassembly: Be careful when replacing the screw for the display cable bracket closest to the magnetic power cord receptacle. The interior magnet might attract the screw causing the screw to get pulled under the DC power circuit board which might then require that you disassemble things again to retrieve the screw.
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Dévissez les deux vis extérieures Torx de 6 mm fixant les deux côtés de l'écran au boîtier supérieur (4 vis au total).
Hey guys, with these older models Do Not interchange different colored LVDS cables. Note the connector here is gold, do not use a silver connector on a gold one or vice versa. I fried a logic board this way on an A1278. Note that the core i7 lvds connector is different than the core i5.
I never thought that I’d be required to use PB Blaster to remove computer screws. Had to use two tiny drops for each screw, letting it soak in for 20 minutes or so. The display screws, coated with blue thread lock, did not want to budge. I was so fearful that I would strip them using a T-6 driver. Ended up using a 1/4” drive ratchet with a T-6 bit, pressing down firmly and blocking the MacBook from turning with my elbows. I’ve had a lot of experience doing this kind of work, but wow!
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Ouvrez votre MacBook de sorte que l'écran est perpendiculaire au boîtier supérieur.
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Posez votre MacBook ouvert sur une table comme sur la photo.
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Pendant que vous maintenez l'écran et le boîtier supérieur d'une main, dévissez la vis Torx de 6 mm de la fixation inférieure de l'écran.
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Saisissez le boîtier supérieur de votre main droite et faites-le légèrement pivoter vers le haut de l'écran de sorte que la fixation supérieure de l'écran s'éloigne du bord du boîtier supérieur.
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Faites pivoter et éloignez légèrement l'écran du boîtier supérieur.
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Soulevez et éloignez l'écran du boîtier supérieur en veillant à ce que aucune fixation ni aucune nappe ne reste accrochée.
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Réglez le pistolet à air chaud à température basse et commencez à chauffer la bordure extérieure noire du côté du coin supérieur droit de l'écran.
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Une fois que la vitre a été suffisamment chauffée, fixez une ventouse à levier à côté du coin supérieur droit de la vitre.
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Soulevez et éloignez doucement et délicatement le coin de la vitre de l'ensemble écran.
I'm having trouble getting the display glass off. I was able to put a card into a gap, but it wasn't the display case, but the entire lcd panel. Any ideas?
My display glass had multiple, long cracks, which is why I set out to replace it.
Lifting the screen didn't work as the suction cup was always over a crack and didn't take. I ended up lifting a piece of screen from the middle, existing cracks making it easy, and then had to go around the edge with a metal scrape to lift and remove the glued edge of the glass.
Took about two hours but it worked. Small splinters flying everywhere (goggles!). Made three inspection passes with a magnifying glass to clean up every little shard of glass and leftover glue. Everything else went fine!
If you have cracks on the screen, use packing tape on the screen to get better grip with suction cup.
Really need to amend this step... I think it is easier to break the double sided stick by SLOWLY rocking it side to side motion w/ the suction cup (macbok logo to camera) from either side of the Macbook logo.
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Soulevez précautionneusement le coin de la vitre suffisamment pour insérer une spatule (spudger) entre elle et l'ensemble écran.
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Avec l'extrémité plate de la spatule, décollez soigneusement la bande adhésive fixant la vitre à l'écran.
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Soulevez la vitre de quelques centimètres au-dessus du coin supérieur droit, tout au long du bord supérieur et du bord droit de l'écran.
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Avec un pistolet à air chaud, faites ramollir la colle sous la bordure noire le long du côté droit de la vitre avant.
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Fixez une ventouse à levier du côté droit de la vitre avant.
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Soulevez la vitre pendant que vous la séparez du reste de l'ensemble écran avec l'extrémité plate d'une spatule.
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Progressez le long du bord droit de la vitre avant jusqu'à ce qu'elle soit séparée de l'écran.
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Avec votre pistolet à air chaud, ramollissez la colle sous la bordure noire le long du bord supérieur de la vitre.
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Fixez une ventouse à levier sur le bord supérieur de la vitre avant et tirez-la pour séparer la vitre de l'écran.
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Progressez le long du bord supérieur de la vitre en enlevant précautionneusement la colle avec l'extrémité plate d'une spatule si nécessaire.
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Avec le pistolet à air chaud, ramollissez la colle sous la bordure noire du côté du coin supérieur gauche de la vitre.
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Fixez une ventouse à levier dans le coin supérieur gauche de la vitre avant.
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Tirez sur la ventouse pendant que vous séparez précautionneusement la vitre de l'ensemble écran avec l'extrémité plate d'une spatule.
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Avec le pistolet à air chaud, faites ramollir la colle sous la bordure noire le long du bord gauche de la vitre avant.
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Fixez une ventouse à levier du côté gauche de la vitre avant.
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Soulevez la vitre pendant que vous la séparez du reste de l'ensemble écran avec l'extrémité plate d'une spatule.
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Progressez le long du bord gauche de la vitre avant jusqu'à ce qu'il soit séparé de l'écran.
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Maintenant que les bords supérieur, gauche et droit de la vitre sont séparés de l'écran, soulevez doucement le bord supérieur de la vitre et faites-le délicatement pivoter pour le retirer de l'écran.
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Si nécessaire, séparez le bord inférieur de la vitre de l'ensemble écran avec l'extrémité plate d'une spatule.
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Pour reconnecter le câble, enlevez d'abord le morceau de mousse autocollante sur la prise ZIF du câble de données AirPort/iSight avec la pointe d'une spatule.
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Toujours avec la pointe de la spatule, ouvrez le clapet de retenue ZIF de la prise du câble de données AirPort/iSight.
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Insérez la nappe de la caméra dans sa prise sur la carte caméra et refermez le clapet de retenue ZIF avec la pointe de la spatule pour maintenir la nappe en place.
I used this guide to successfully replace the glass on a 2012 unibody 13” Macbook Pro.
If you are replacing the glass due to cracking/breaking, you’ll want to cover the entire surface with clear packing tape to keep shards from going everywhere. You can’t use the suction cups, since the glass will continue to crack as you pull on it, breaking the suction. I used an iSesamo and heat gun to pry the edge up, and then scrape off remaining shards around the edges.
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Pour remonter votre ordinateur, suivez les instructions dans l'ordre inverse.
Pour remonter votre ordinateur, suivez les instructions dans l'ordre inverse.
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16 commentaires
oh! and great organization tip for the screws: i poked them thru a piece of notebook paper with the corresponding steps written next to them. it worked like a charm, far better than anything else i could think of.
well, i didn't have the required suction cup... and so after trying for about 5 minutes with the iphone suction cups, i just picked at the broken glass (most of us have the broken screens, right?) and it went much better. i was worried about scratching the LCD as i picked and scraped, so be gentle, and wary of that. it was a fun/nerve-wracking 3.5 hours.
Agree, forget about getting the glass off in one try. Apparently the glue hardens out a bit, I couldn't get the screen off with the ordered suction cups. In the end I did the same as Brian above: just kept breaking off more glass until the LCD was free, then painstakingly removed the bits around the border with a sharp knife. Just be careful.
Keep a vacuum cleaner nearby, as you'll end up with lots of microscopic glass fragments.
I vacuumed the LCD then sprayed LCD cleaner on & wiped it with a microfiber cloth. This worked very well. Make sure you get all the glass fragments off the border as well, I missed one and now the border makes a bit of noise if you press down there.
Everything on this review seemed to work rather flawlessly for me up until the point where I had to use the heat gun and suckers to remove the cracked screen. After much use of the heat gun (hairdryer in my case) I feared that the LCD may be effected by the excessive heat, so I started to carefully breaking away at my already cracked screen. With the screen not trapped beneath a sheet of glass and able to breathe, I felt much more relaxed about using the hairdryer to loosen glue around the edges. After a short amount of picking, and scraping, I managed to get all the glass shards off and apply the new glass screen. It was helpful to have another set of hands to position the hairdryer as I moved along to enable faster separation of glass from the panel. Good as new after mind you! Don't let the 9/10 difficulty rating deter you, just be careful, organized and take your time :)
I totally agree: if your glass is broken (a good reason why you may be looking how to change it) you'll have to be VERY patient. It is very likely that the glass will break in hundreds of tiny pieces while performing these operations. My experience says: 1) Heat the adhesive thoroughly to minimize the work. 2) Go fetch some glasses to protect your eyes. 3) Good Luck! :)
Excellent guide. Thank you. I covered my whole screen with 2" clear packing tape (over the see-through parts only). I used a bit less heat that I probably could have, and I ended up carefully prying off small glass shards, one by one, over the adhesive areas. Once the sides and top were done, I was able to heat the bottom, and remove the entire glass in one piece by hinging it down to un-stick the bottom. This helped keep the LCD perfectly clean during the removal process. Once the old glass was completely removed, I used pieces of scotch tape to remove any dust particles that landed on the LCD while it was bare. Then I immediately installed the new glass. Before my screen was cracked all over and it looked horrible. Now it looks as good as new. You can't tell it was repaired!
like @Charles, I'd also like to know why it is necessary to remove the display from the laptop - from come comments on other forums I have heard people say it can be done with the display still attached, which would seem much easier.
Don’t use glue. Use double-coated tissue tape, also known as adhesive transfer tape, which applies like a double-sided adhesive tape, but after you peel away the outer covering layer all that is left is a thin adhesive layer. Easy to cut to length and shape to precisely apply to the frame for the glass will adhere to. The adhesive should be a low surface energy acrylic adhesive, such as 3M 300LSE:
https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/company-us/a...
Another that I’ve used several times is 3M 9448A but the description says “formulated to hold well even in high temperatures”, which might make it harder to replace the glass again:
The suction cup won’t be able to attach well if glass is cracked beneath it. Use clear packing tape to cover the crack(s) — this helps the suction cup hold well and helps prevent further breakage of the glass.
It’s hard to control where a heat gun blows. An alternative that is easier to control and confine to the target area is a microwave heated heat-retaining bag, such as the iFixit iOpener. Similar microwave heating bags are sold by drugstores.
Why disconnect the display assembly? Well, you really need the display assembly to lie flat on a table while you work on it. With this model MacBook when the display is opened all the way and laid flat on a table the laptop’s body will be at about a 45 degree angle relative to the table, and would be a challenge to securely support while you work on the display. If you do have a good way to support the laptop then it’s still important to remove the battery to prevent it from accidentally getting powered on.
It looks like my several comments are more than 3 years too late for those who commented previously. Oh well…
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This is not a a1278 unibody MacBook Pro. A1278 MacBooks backs are one solid metal piece not two separate pieces. This guide is for a different MacBook Pro.
Brad Burgeson - Réponse
This guide isn’t for a pro; it’s a MacBook unibody.
Nicholas -
So, it turns out that Apple used the model code A1278 for quite a few different Mac models, including both Pro and non-Pro versions! This guide is for the non-Pro Macbooks. There’s also one for the Pro models with the same A1278 identifier.
tempelmann - Réponse