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Introduction
La RAM est facilement accessible sur cet ordinateur et le travail de démontage nécessaire est réduit au minimum.
Ce dont vous avez besoin
Vidéo d'introduction
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Retirez les huit vis Phillips 4 mm par lesquelles le boîtier inférieur est fixé au MacBook.
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Soulevez légèrement le boîtier arrière au niveau de la fente.
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Continuez à faire courir vos doigts entre les boîtiers inférieur et supérieur jusqu'à ce que le boîtier supérieur se dégage des clips de fixation.
Do the retaining clips have to be re-engaged when replacing the lower case?
Answering my own question, the clips re-engage when the lower case is correctly positioned. You can help them by gently pressing the lower case with your thumbs midway along the two short sides. When everything is correctly aligned the eight screw holes line up.
Rather than running your fingernail down the sides to free up the retaining clips, I found that using an old credit card, inserted about 1/4”, to run along the left and right side popped those end retaining clips right off with no problem. You may need to twist the card slightly when in the middle area to help pop those off.
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Avec l'extrémité plate d'une spatule (spudger), soulevez le connecteur de la batterie de sa prise sur la carte mère.
you do not need to remove the battery when replacing the hard drive or ram
Be careful of the corner of the battery cable connector when trying to pry it off with the spudge. I knocked the corner of mine. No operational impact but was not very pleasing!
Not necessary, but a good idea, so as to avoid any spurious charges going through the boards...
@Svenaustx - What could happen if not removing this battery? Worst case? Not a geek on this but did change RAM on my Macbook Pro "15. Can't remember disconneting the battery back then. Shouldn't it be sufficient shutting the Mac off and ensure it has been used for an hour or so before replacing RAM?
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Écartez les deux clips de chaque côté de la barrette de RAM simultanément pour libérer cette dernière.
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Pour remonter votre appareil, suivez les mêmes instructions dans l'ordre inverse.
Pour remonter votre appareil, suivez les mêmes instructions dans l'ordre inverse.
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17 commentaires
Hi I'm currently installing 16gbs of ram, that is supported by my Macbook 2010 White unibody, however the mac is not reading the full amount installed. i have gotten 10gbs working, by installing one of the new 8gbs sticks, and the old 2gb. Both of the new sticks of Ram have been tested, by simply swopping them out with each other, but when combine the full 16gb sends a error code, 3 beeps with a 5 sec in between. Both ram slots work, all four sticks of ram work, the two 8gb and the old two sticks of 2gb, and computer runs right now at 10gb, so there is proof that it is supported. please help me, i am stuck.
You have two different types of ram there... One cannot be read by the Mac book for some reason because of the speed or type.
theloo32 -
Hey Skyler, I'm having the same issue. It appears that if you have at least one DIMM of 1066MHz RAM, the machine will be able to boot and clock-down faster RAM so that both DIMMs are running at this MacBook's maximum 1066MHz speed. I suspect that because both of my upgraded DIMMs are faster than 1066MHz (1300MHz), it is preventing the machine from being able to boot, and it's subsequently unable to remedy the RAM speed discrepancy. In my case, I get a single beep every 5 seconds when trying to boot which means "No RAM Installed"
The solution would be to return the faster memory and buy 1066MHz speed RAM, although now-a-days that's more expensive than buying 1300MHz or 1600MHz RAM when you're looking for 16GB. I guess you can also leave the mismatch DIMMs (10GB) if you need to, but it's definitely not optimal.
Adam T -
Excelent guide! did it carefuly in less than 5 min!
Thxs for the help!
Video: How to upgrade RAM momory on macbook white a1342?
My white 13" MacBook Unibody Late 2009 A1342 updated to OS X 10.11.6 (El Capitan) now runs 8GB (2x4GB) of DDR3 1333 SODIMM taken from my Lenovo Y570 laptop. The MacBook already used an SSD, but is even quicker now. Here are some screenshots from the MacBook:
http://lookpic.com/O/i2/170/E7OeVMrC.jpe...
http://lookpic.com/O/i2/394/m0an129g.jpe...
http://lookpic.com/O/i2/175/xKugIJHm.jpe...
Hopefully any brand of 2x4GB DDR3 1333 SODIMM will work for you...
Note that it has to be 1.5 volt DDR3 RAM, not 1.35 volt DDR3L.
What type of ram should i use as i tried 2 sticks of 2gb in it and it doesnt work. Although, if i just put the 1gb which was original from apple and 1 stick of the 2gb it will work…it just wont work the two 2gb sticks together and what is the max ram please.
You are right. This was easy. The hardest part was removing and replacing the eight 4 mm Phillips screws securing the lower case to the MacBook.
My MacBook Unibody Model A1342 now has 16GB of OWC Memory.
https://eshop.macsales.com/shop/memory/A...
Thanks Walter!
Piece of cake! Thanks 4 being here!
Kate Lavender, Creator of Lizzie Borden Audio
Hello, 16gb upgrade is no longer working for macbook 7,1 …I get one beep every 5 second when booting with both 8gb RAM installed. I tried everything I found on the web, but still not working. More informations here : https://fr.ifixit.com/Réponses/Afficher/...
Thank you :)
I just upgraded an A1342 Macbook by leaving one original 1GB PC3-8500 (1066MHz) inside and adding a PC3-10600 (1333MHz) 4GB module. It works perfectly and the jump from 2GB (1+1) to 5GB (1+4) makes it much faster. The reason for this kind of upgrade is that I have a lot of faster RAM modules around but no 8500's. So mixing speeds works, as long as one correct speed module is installed. The faster module will be clocked down.
According to this page http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1651?viewl..., the 8 screws are not identical.
Can anybody tell me where each kind of screw is supposed to go?
Gregoire - Réponse
They are all 100% Identical. You were probably looking at a different model, or Apple has entered the wrong information... Hey, It happens...
Owen Davies -
The screws on the Late 2009 are identical. The blue lock compound might make tightening some require a little more effort.
svenaustx - Réponse
Can I replace it with a SATA 3 cable?
nm - Réponse
A1342 macbook does not have the right controller to support sata III
Owen Davies -
hi, i just got back from the apple store and they are really keen for me to upgrade to a new laptop since my battery is old and the screen is cracked, so glad i found ifixit i would love to upgrade this puppy! gonna make it a real sleeper! styler hall wrote about sticking 16 gb of ram in his a 1342 ? is this a simply mather of ordering 3 4gb sticks ?aslo i currently have 4 gb and would like to upgrade to 8 ( or indeed 16) does that mean i need to buy all new sticks or can i continue to use the old one and stick a new one next to it ?
thanks again mick van aar, perth western aus.
michelvanaar - Réponse
The A1342 will take up to 16 GB of RAM, however, there are only two RAM slots, so use two 8-GB RAM modules. Other World Computing (OWC) is a great reference source for info on exactly which RAM to use with which model; prices are usually much better on EBay though. Add an SSD from OWC and your machine will really scream!
I hope that helps!
gdesbrisay -
Gregoire is right. The 8 screws are absolutely NOT identical, I’m looking at them right now, weeowey weeowey.
John Guzman - Réponse
I just wanted to say that, in 2020, i used these instructions to replace the magsafe socket on my A1286, mid-2012, pre-Retina MacBook Pro. The internal layout is not quite the same but close enough for me to do the job. I skipped the steps of fully disconnecting the fans and speakers because of what others had said about breaking the sockets. it just meant I had to be extremely careful when lifting up the main board so that I did not tear and break the connections. I was able to disconnect the old magsafe socket with the board flat and in situ, but there was no where near enough room to be able to aline and press home the new par home. Reluctantly i had to lever up the board. This was difficult as there is a tapped post that holds a screw in the way close to where the USB sockets are, that prevented the board lifting up and out. I had to be quite forceful to manouevre the sockets out from the edge of the case.
Paul Burridge - Réponse