Introduction
This guide will show how to access and replace the # 1 (Trigger), 2, 3, 4, 9-12(Hat) button switches. Be aware you will need basic soldering skills and equipment prior to attempting.
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Remove (5) Philips head screws on the Stick Body. The bottom two will require a longer reach than a typical exchangeable bit-type screwdriver provides.
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Separate the two halves of the stick body while keeping the Hat, #1 (trigger) and #2 buttons from falling out and becoming lost.
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Two printed circuit board's, one for the switches, one for the infrared sensor, as well as the rudder rotation encoder are now exposed. The PCB's are friction fit into the casing halves, so they can be removed by hand with little to moderate force. Be careful of the wiring.
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Be mindful not to bend the rudder spring nor disturb the lubricant at the bottom of stick.
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Be careful of the leads for the Infrared LED and photodiode.
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Set aside the casing halves, Trigger, Hat, and #2 button.
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With the halves of the stick removed, the circuit boards are exposed.
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(3) 6x6x4.3mm momentary switches for buttons #2, 3, 4. Omron B3F-1002 or equivalent.
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(4) 6x6x4.5mm right angle momentary switches for the Hat buttons #9, 10, 11, 12. Omron B3F-3122 or equivalent.
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(1) x 6x6x7.3mm switch for Trigger button #1. Omron B3M-6009 or equivalent.
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This step will require a soldering iron, solder with flux, solder vacuum and/or solder wick. I highly recommend learning soldering and de-soldering for through-hole components before attempting, this is not an easy first soldering experience.
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Use soldering iron to heat the existing solder joints to flowing, and then apply wick or solder vacuum to remove solder. Once sufficient solder has been removed, the inoperable switch can be removed from the PCB. Take note of the orientation of the removed switch by viewing the raised lines on the bottom of the switch.
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Insert new switch into PCB while matching of the orientation of the removed switch. The raised straight line(s) should be in the same direction as the removed switch's straight line(s).
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To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
4 commentaires
Hello if Kevin is still around or someone on the team can answer how the spring is supposed to be loaded back? I disassembled mine and for some reason the spring for the rudder axis won't fit properly or give proper tension. I did make sure it was slotted/placed correctly on the plastic grooves of the handle (both left and right pieces).
Is the spring seated into the stick securely? If the "V" spring is sliding out/forward of the stick it won't be able to "push off" the tabs in the body side pieces. I didn't remove the spring from the stick, so I'm not sure of it's fixture method. Can you provide a photo of the spring in relation to the stick and not the body side pieces?
I've had to repair the trigger on several Sidewinder FF2 joysticks.
The trigger usually goes first but I found in every case the switch was fine, it was the solder that was broken.
I melted the solder on the feet of the switch with a solder iron and when it cooled and reformed the trigger was fine.
I ended up with 3 working joysticks without having to change the switches.
Thanks for the input! The one that went out on mine was the #2 button. That's good advice to check to see if the switch is operating and may only need to re-flow the solder instead of completely replacing it.
