Avec ce tutoriel, remplacez la batterie de votre smartphone Nexus 6P. Lors du remontage, posez une nouvelle couche d'adhésif là où c'est nécessaire.

  1. Il est possible de retirer la coque arrière à l'aide d'un iOpener comme démontré ici, mais c'est long et difficile. Nous recommandons un pistolet à air chaud ou un outil similaire. L'adhésif dans le Nexus 6P est très tenace. De plus, la vitre ou la coque arrière en plastique risquent fort de se casser ou déformer au cours de la réparation.
    • Il est possible de retirer la coque arrière à l'aide d'un iOpener comme démontré ici, mais c'est long et difficile. Nous recommandons un pistolet à air chaud ou un outil similaire. L'adhésif dans le Nexus 6P est très tenace. De plus, la vitre ou la coque arrière en plastique risquent fort de se casser ou déformer au cours de la réparation.

    • Avec un outil éjecteur de carte SIM, faites sortir le tiroir de la carte SIM.

    • Servez-vous d'un iOpener pour faire ramollir l'adhésif sous le petit joint en plastique en bas du téléphone.

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  2. Le couteau est extrêmement tranchant. Faites attention à ne couper ni vos doigts ni votre téléphone.
    • Le couteau est extrêmement tranchant. Faites attention à ne couper ni vos doigts ni votre téléphone.

    • Insérez un couteau entre le téléphone et le joint en plastique. Faites levier sur le joint jusqu'à ce que vous puissiez y insérer un médiator.

    • Faites glisser le médiator sous le joint pour couper l'adhésif.

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    • Servez-vous d'un iOpener pour faire ramollir l'adhésif sous le joint en verre en haut du téléphone.

    • Insérez un couteau entre le téléphone et le joint en verre. Faites levier sur le joint jusqu'à ce que vous puissiez insérer un médiator.

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    • Le verre pourrait se briser. Portez des lunettes et des gants de protection.

    • Faites glisser le médiator sous le joint en verre pour couper l'adhésif qui le fixe au téléphone.

    • Retirez le joint en verre.

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    • Avec une pincette, retirez les autocollants indicateurs de contact liquide.

    • Dévissez les six vis cruciformes #000.

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    • Insérez un couteau à lame de rasoir entre la coque arrière métallique et la vitre frontale pour créer un interstice. Insérez un médiator dans cet interstice et faites-le glisser vers le coin supérieur droit.

      • Le couteau est très tranchant. Faites attention à ne couper ni vos doigts ni votre téléphone.

    • Insérez un second médiator et faites-le glisser vers le coin supérieur gauche.

    • Parcourez les bords avec les médiators pour ouvrir les clips en plastique qui fixent la coque arrière et le châssis.

    • Ôtez la coque arrière.

    There is a black plastic band around the front glass. So stick the razor between the metal back and outside of the black plastic that is around the front glass. If you look closely at the first picture you can see the black plastic strip outside of the front glass. If you stick it between the black plastic and screen you could leave the mid frame in the metal case and only lift up the the glass and screen.

    igolten - Réponse

    Definitely try to get the knife as close as possible to the aluminum body. It will spare you damage to the plastic band… wish I would have read the comment before trying this myself… ah… and don’t get tricked by a possible space between the display and the plastic band it looks tempting to put the knife in there however that will possibly damage the plastic band. That’s where I thought I could get in between the display and the body and did damage my plastic seal. Btw, I got my device open from the left side away from the power and volume buttons.

    Marcel Duda - Réponse

    • Dévissez la vis cruciforme #000.

    • Retirez la plaque métallique avec une pincette.

    While I performed this step, the three ribbon cables from the next step came up attached to the metal plate.

    Troy Gaddis - Réponse

    As a head’s up the metal plate needs to be removed from the left side first because it does slide under another piece of metal close to the fingerprint scanner. Upon reassembly insert the right side first and then push the left side down. You will know if you have it in correctly if the plate cannot move freely if the screw is in even a little bit.

    Michael Stefanchik - Réponse

    There is glue on the underside of metal plate that made it a little harder to pull up the plate than we expected. The flex cables did not come up with the plate, but it was a surprise.

    Catherine Adams - Réponse

    • Déconnectez les trois nappes avec l'extrémité plate d'une spatule (spudger).

    While I was performing this, the three flat ribbon cables were stuck to the metal plate and came up with it. Watch out for that possibility.

    Troy Gaddis - Réponse

    • Déconnectez la nappe d'interconnexion de la carte fille avec l'extrémité plate d'une spatule.

    • Servez-vous d'un iOpener pour faire ramollir l'adhésif sous la batterie.

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    • Avertissement : n'avancez pas trop sous la batterie avec la spatule ou la carte en plastique. La nappe de l'écran se trouve sous la batterie.

      • Allez voir à la prochaine étape l'emplacement de la nappe.

    • Insérez l'extrémité plate d'une spatule jusqu'à l'encoche et faites-la délicatement glisser le long du bord pour couper l'adhésif …

    • Servez-vous d'une carte en plastique pour couper l'adhésif restant à gauche de la batterie.

    The display cable seems to be completely attached to backing, not free to move at all. The warning made me think it would be floating between the battery and the back of the battery area, however this is not the case. You shouldn’t need to worry too much about it, but you also don’t need to stick anything that deep since the adhesive isn’t where the display cable is. You can see where the adhesive is in the picture for the next step. It’s the black sort of rectangular-ish pad to the right of the display cable. There’s a second taller adhesive pad on the left side of the display cable which must’ve stuck to the battery when they removed it for this guide. When I took the battery out both of the adhesive pads stayed attached to the battery.

    Cory Miller - Réponse

    Thanks, Cory. This is exactly what we saw, too!

    Catherine Adams -

    • Ôtez la batterie.

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Pour remonter votre appareil, suivez ces instructions en sens inverse et posez une nouvelle couche d'adhésif là où c'est nécessaire.

75 autre(s) ont terminé cette réparation.

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Dominik Schnabelrauch

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In case anyone is wondering, I was able to get the two small back covers to reassemble without using new adhesive. I didn’t have any on hand so I just used a heat gun to warm the adhesive that was left over and firmly held them in place. So far it seems to be holding well.

Vince Cipriani - Réponse

Adhesive? I’m wondering what kind of adhesive to use for reassembly?

antoine courtemanche - Réponse

Didn’t need any additional adhesive and the iopener worked fine for both loosening adhesive for disassembly and getting it sticky again for reassembly.. Managed not to break the glass camera cover!

antoine courtemanche -

any tips on using the iOpener for the top glass? It dosen’t seem to be helping me at all. :(

Ellison Gregg - Réponse

These were great instructions, but have to admit this was quite a hair-raising process because of the amount of heat that was required to soften the adhesive and the amount of force needed to pry things apart. Luckily, I have a digital hot air source (Sparkfun 303D) used for surface mount electronics. The safe temperature ended up being about 200 F. If I did it again would be much easier because I know the glass piece at the top is not as fragile as I thought. So, heat gun, definitely. iOpener would be next to useless, especially to loosen under battery. But be careful not to concentrate the heat and melt plastic or make glass crack. Adhesive under battery definitely reusable, easy to peel off old battery. Go slow with the whole process and it will be successful!

Andris Vizulis - Réponse

I did mine today. Besides a couple scuffs that are covered by a bumper it is like new again.

My tips: when removing the back glued on parts start at the ends, not middle and use a lot of heat. Mine came up really easy once it got to temp. The case was harder than if thought. I started near the lower speaker. The obvious looking place to pry up is wrong, the outside case lip is very thin and it's easy to try digging up the screen, not the case. Getting the battery out just required a bit more force than I would have thought. But it's all back together and works like new again.

Ed Willson - Réponse

Thanks! Wasn’t too bad of a process, but I was expecting the worst. Getting the battery out was the hardest part in my opinion because it was hard to get the glue in that area soft enough.

Tyler Young - Réponse

I am happy to report that I was able to do this repair successfully. The hardest parts were removing the glass back (covering the camera) and prying the outside case away from the rest of the phone unit. I definitely purchased the “Technicians Razor Set'“ and am glad I did. I used all the tools listed in the guide (most of which I had earlier from a larger kit). I used the blade that is a rectangle that has a sloping / graded end so that it is real thin at the point of entry and allows you to pry a bit. I tried with the standard “exacto-knife” type end but it didn’t seem to do the trick for me plus I felt it was dangerous to push with force with something that sharp.

Use a heat gun. If you have a hair dryer that gets pretty hot that might work as well. A cheap heat gun makes this SOO much easier. I also happened to have one of those laser surface temperature readers and got the glass up to about 180 Fahrenheit which works well. I got the plastic bottom piece to about 150 to get the glue underneath gooey.

Troy Gaddis - Réponse

Great guide; detailed and helpful! Just replaced the battery! Great pictures, too, as it really helped me understand the layout of the internals. I bought the battery from ifixit and the essential electronics toolkit that they sell as well. I honestly don’t think I could have done it without that essential electronics toolkit. I certainly don’t have some of those bits and tools on hand.


I was able to successfully remove the top part (the glass part) without breaking it. I did reuse it again. I noticed the tiny foam circle that surrounds the camera. If you purchase a replacement glass top part like I did (for the possibility of breaking it when removing it), you may find that the foam circle is a little offset. You also may need to remove the existing foam circle if your replacement glass top has one already attached.


The battery’s adhesive is very strong. You will have to work hard to pry the battery off, so don’t panic. Keep at it, little by little.

Michael Sokol - Réponse

Successfully completed the battery replacement guide. We were able to complete the entire replacement process with the iOpener, but it was slow. We used an infrared thermometer to measure the surface temperature of the iOpener and the phone, to ensure we were reaching an optimal temperature (about 150F for the plastic cover, 180F for the glass cover, and 145F for the battery).

The battery was slow to remove due to adhesive; be patient. We bent the battery slightly in the process. The image in the guide showing the phone with the battery removed (the image in Step 11) shows a black glue strip to the right of the display cable. When we removed the battery, we saw two black glue strips; one on each side of the display cable.

Catherine Adams - Réponse

Great guide! I was sure to ruin something at step 6, but everything works perfectly fine. Great guide!

I only have the Pro Tech Toolkit, and only needed a knife. For the iOpener i had a plastic bag in boiling water. It seemed to do the trick for me (filled up a bag with some water an put it in a kettle with more water. When it boiled, wipe off water from the outside of the plastic bag.

Knut Berg-Domås - Réponse

Ich habe meinen Akku gestern getauscht, war eigentlich nicht besonders schwierig mit dieser tollen Anleitung.

Wichtig ist den Kleber mit Wärme zu lösen, dann geht’s recht einfach. Habe dafür einen Heißluftfön auf kleiner Stufe genommen.

Beim “heraushebeln” der Platine muß man schauen wo man die Klinge einführt, ich war anfangs einen Millimeter zu weit innen und somit ließ es sich schlecht hebeln weil ich quasi im Platinenteil war.

Beim Zusammenbau habe ich die beiden Abdeckungen oben und unten nur wieder festgedrückt und dann nochmal ein wenig erwärmt, dadurch mußte ich keinen neuen Kleber verwenden.

Dirk Heimann - Réponse

I managed to damage both the top and bottom back pieces (steps 2 & 4). Fortunately, Amazon sells replacements. Got them on order now. The rest of the repair went fine, though. 6P is reassembled and charging.

Steve DeGroof - Réponse

Thank you for the excellent guide.

Battery replacement took 3/4 of an hour. Most of this time was waiting patiently for the adhesive to soften on the glass and plastic screw covers. I used my Aoyue 2738 rework station hot air gun at 130 C, this gave me a surface temp of 180 F by my Fluke 52 temp probe. Not having the iFixIt Technician’s razor kit, I resorted to a #11 surgical blade that I normally use for mold making; which worked well enough, apart from my inept handling on the plastic screw cover. BUY the Technicians razor kit.

Also, there is a pry point for the battery directly beneath the buttons that the spudger fits into perfectly I used this to create a gap to allow the hot air to soften the adhesive holding the battery in place. I found that the Jimmy tool worked very well as a lever to hold the battery away from the case; which allowed the hot air to separate the old battery from the adhesive. This obviated inserting any tool deeply enough to damage the cable running beneath the battery.

jms - Réponse

Guide excellent

Il faut 1 heure avec un peu de matériels (spatule, cuter). J’ai utilisé un sèche cheveux pas trop chaud pour chauffer la colle. Pour la batterie, décollage délicatement au cutter pour soulever le bon côté, et petit écarteur pour maintenir. Ensuite avec une spatule longue et fine, j’ai pu facilement découper la colle en tension. Je passe sur les connecteurs de nappe, c’est démontage classique.

Franck MELS - Réponse

Comment à tu réussi à te procurer la batterie sachant que Ixifit ne peut pas l’envoyer en Europe?

Thomas Jousselin -

Is that any place I can get help to replace my battery ?I have an Nexus 6P. Help !!


connie8069 - Réponse

I got mine from Amazon, and the price wasn’t too bad. I just replaced mine, and this one came with tools which helped. I used a hair drier instead of an iopener or heat gun, and it worked okay enough. Took about an hour in total.

David -

In a lot of ways I wish I would have read all the instructions and then the comments before even attempting this. Things would have been a lot easier. I only read maybe 1 step ahead while performing this, and the battery itself was a real issue for me. I ended up ripping apart the covering on the old battery, and while I got it out, smelled a bit odd, so I did the rest outside. I also somewhat recommend discharging the battery entirely before doing this. I found the device was easy to turn on during the process, and if the battery had further issues, it’d be less dangerous than being fully charged.

David - Réponse

Well, that wasn’t fun.

The hardest parts BY FAR are the camera glass and bottom cover. There was a moment there where I was considering breaking the glass and just buying a new part, but eventually I got it to let go. The problem is that the glass and metal are VERY tight together, so I had to use a little precision razor to scrape away some of the metal in order to fit it in behind the glass to push it out.

The bottom section came out with some patience, but I ended up warping it with the heat gun trying to melt the glue again. That said, this is the first time I’ve used a heat gun, so YMMV.

The battery we got had a cable that wasn’t quite up to spec, so it’s probably slightly crimped. So far it doesn’t seem to be a problem.

The instructions are definitely helpful, though. Good luck!

pocketdrummer - Réponse

Done :-).

The instructions were to the point and helped me to replace the battery.

NB: On my device removing the bottom cover and the camera cover was actually quite smooth. With a little help from my hair dryer I could soften the adhesive enough to carefully remote both covers.

NB2: The two hardest parts for me were to pry the alluminum back cover from the display and removing the battery as the adhesive keeping it in place was quite reilient ;-) (I used an old laminated card which worked well for the purpose of seperating the battery from the device). In the process of getting the knife beween the display glass and the cover I slightly damaged the display seal. Nothing big but I could have avoided it I think if I would have known about the seal.

Many thanks for the instructions… I am curious if my Nexus will last another 3 years now.

Marcel Duda - Réponse


I wanted to order the battery via iFixit, but as I am living in France the transport costs were too high. I ordered a simular battery at Amazone France.

The instruction are very clear.

Arie van Boxel - Réponse

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