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  1. , Batterie: étape 1, image 1 de 2 , Batterie: étape 1, image 2 de 2
    • Dévissez la vis cruciforme qui maintient le cache de la batterie fixé sur la console.

    • La vis reste attachée au cache de batterie.

    • Soulevez le cache de la batterie avec un spudger ou votre ongle, et retirez-le de la console.

    A Phillips #000 (PH000) seems to give a more secure fit (no slipping) than the stated Phillips #00.

    Ritchie - Réponse

    This will be good for mods

    Matthew Bevins - Réponse

    I'm having a problem getting the screw to unscrew. I have the right Phillips ( it was included with all the stuff I got this) Any tips. it doesn't look like the screw is spinning but i haven't played my Nintendo DS Lite for 3 years.

    whittlegirls - Réponse

    bonjour j’ai une petite question pour vous fais trés longtemps que j’ai pas utiliser mon nintendo ds lite et quand je le branche il allume 1 fois orange après il s’enteint même s’il est brancher ça veux tu dire qu’il faut que je change de batterie ? Merci

    Marie-Julie Richer - Réponse

    Soit un changement de batterie, soit la carte-mère a peut-être un court-circuit :/

    Polaris -

  2. : étape 2, image 1 de 1
    • Insérez le coin d'un spudger entre le côté de la batterie et la console et soulevez la batterie pour la désengager.

    • Retirez la batterie de la DS Lite.

  3. , Coque inférieure: étape 3, image 1 de 2 , Coque inférieure: étape 3, image 2 de 2
    • Faites levier avec la pointe d'une spatule (spudger) pour extraire les deux patins en caoutchouc de la DS Lite.

  4. : étape 4, image 1 de 1
    • Retirez les vis suivantes qui tiennent en place la coque inférieure de la DS Lite :

    • Deux vis cruciformes dorées de 4,3 mm

    • Une vis Tri-Wing noire de 3,9 mm

    • Une vis cruciforme argentée de 3,3 mm

    • Trois vis Tri-Wing argentées de 5,5 mm

    Not mentioned is to remove the jumper/connector below the word "SLOT-2". Case WILL NOT separate otherwise.

    Kayla - Réponse

    In the separation step below, the third picture show the case with the jumper/connector removed.

    Kayla - Réponse

    I cannot remove the tri-wing screws.

    Zach Smith - Réponse

    Same to me. I tried opening the case by force. Broke several parts of the motherboard…

    Leon -

    I can't remove the final tri wing screw in the battery section and it looks like I grinded the screw out too much for any screwdriver to work.Is there anything I can do?

    Quintin Harbin - Réponse

    From what I know, the only solution is to drill the screw out with a very small-headed drill :/

    Polaris -

  5. : étape 5, image 1 de 3 : étape 5, image 2 de 3 : étape 5, image 3 de 3
    • Enlevez d'abord le cache du slot 2 (Game Pak).

    • Insérez le bout plat d'une spatule entre les parties inférieure et supérieure de la coque de la DS Lite.

    • Faites délicatement glisser la spatule le long du bord droit de la DS Lite pour créer une ouverture.

    • Continuez à faire glisser la spatule le long de l'arrière de la DS Lite jusqu'à ce que les parties inférieure et supérieure se séparent.

    Don’t forget to remove the GBA cartridge placeholder before removing the backside

    Cees Jan de Boer - Réponse

    You forgot to mention to remove the battery compartment Phillips screw.

    nathan lowe - Réponse

  6. : étape 6, image 1 de 1
    • Séparez la partie inférieure du reste de la DS lite

    • Tirez délicatement, certains appareils sont collés avec de l’adhésif. Tirer trop fort peut endommager le bouton de marche.

    • Lors du remontage, assurez-vous que le bouton de marche et les curseurs de volume sont correctement alignés avec les commutateurs de la carte mère.

    When you reassemble, make sure that you have the volume and power buttons in place, and make sure they are in the right position to line up with the switches on the motherboard. If they are not aligned, you risk snapping off the tiny switches on the motherboard (in which case, you are in for some soldering work).

    Eric - Réponse

    I should have read the comments first - broke off the power switch because I didn't know about aligning it. No way I can do soldering, guess it's for the dustbin :-(

    Emma -

    Whoops, remembered the power button but forgot the volume slider.

    I'll do it later.

    analbonghits -

    There is no way that the fact you have to line up the volume and power switch toggles upon reassembly is not in this guide. I just carefully followed this guide to replace the shoulder buttons but ruined my DS lite because I didn’t read these (practically hidden comments due to the design of the website) comments and broke the power switch. Thankfully there are 150 million DS I can buy second hand but “repeat the steps backwards” wasn’t sufficient in this repair. And that’s what this website is for.

    Ryan -

  7. , Gâchettes: étape 7, image 1 de 2 , Gâchettes: étape 7, image 2 de 2
    • Soulevez les deux gâchettes hors de la DS Lite.

    • Les gâchettes sont maintenues très lâchement par des petites chevilles en métal et des ressorts. Ne perdez pas ces pièces.

    • La seconde photo montre la bonne configuration des gâchettes pour le réassemblage.

    Anything after step 7 is unnecessary if having to replace the left or right trigger button(s).

    Nate River - Réponse

    The second picture does not show the correct configuration of the button spring. It should be flipped. Look at the trigger on the left of the larger image; that is the correct configuration.

    wrekone - Réponse

  8. , Carte Wi-Fi: étape 8, image 1 de 1
    • Utilisez le bout plat d'une spatule (spudger) pour débrancher le connecteur de l'antenne Wi-Fi de sa prise la carte Wi-Fi.

    There is absolutely no need to follow steps 8-13 if like me, all you needed to do was access the face buttons for cleaning/replacement. Once you have unscrewed the motherboard from the front casing you can just flip it up, making sure you take the front screen with it. You will have full access to the buttons and all of their contacts. No need to remove the wifi board and microphone cable, etc. Also, replacing the ribbon cables for the screen is especially frustrating. Avoid taking them out at all costs, if you can.

    James McCarthy - Réponse

    what is the "etc."?

    Rita Cao -

    For those replacing the bottom screen, you can just skip to step 13 and go from there. No need to remove the wifi board, antenna, etc.

    lowestseries - Réponse

  9. : étape 9, image 1 de 1
    • Faites levier avec le bout plat de la spatule pour retirer la carte Wi-Fi de sa prise sur la carte mère.

    the i was working on had a different wifi connector. i thought a had broken it but the thing underneath it was just to balance it on the motherboard.

    BigD29853 - Réponse

    Do you have to put back in the WiFi board? As far as I know it does not require it to play games.

    Aiden Harlin - Réponse

    With the Nintendo servers now off, and all the games are playable without WiFi. That being said, I don’t know what is used for local multiplayer.

    Polaris -

  10. : étape 10, image 1 de 1
    • Utilisez encore le bout plat de la spatule pour séparer le bord droit de la carte Wi-Fi de la carte mère.

    • La carte Wi-Fi est collée à la carte mère par une couche d’adhésif.

    • Retirez la carte Wi-Fi de la DS Lite.

    I took it apart successfully and I replaced the screen but I've put it back together and it the green light turns on for about 2seconds quiet dim, brighter for about 1 and then it turns off... I then took the wifi board out, and it turned on! What have I done to it and why doesn't it work with it and only without?!

    Brianlewis - Réponse

    Exact same symptoms for me : on boot up, green light would stay on for 1 second, then shut down. Without wifi, green light would stay on, but blank screens. In fact, it's because on boot up, DS will check if wifi is present, and stop if there is an error. Then, it checks for upper screen, and after that, for lower screen. If one of these is not responding, DS will turn off. I check my cables (upper screen) and DS started again with no problem.

    Alexandre - Réponse

  11. , Carte mère: étape 11, image 1 de 1
    • Utilisez le bout plat d'une spatule pour retirer le connecteur du microphone de sa prise sur la carte mère.

  12. : étape 12, image 1 de 3 : étape 12, image 2 de 3 : étape 12, image 3 de 3
    • Dans les étapes qui suivent, vous devrez retirer le câble d'antenne entre le lecteur de cartouches et la carte mère. Tirez doucement et arrêtez si vous sentez une résistance afin de ne pas endommager la carte mère ou le câble.

    • Orientez le câble d'antenne et son connecteur dans la direction opposée à la carte mère en utilisant une spatule pour le maintenir dans l'espace entre les puces sur la carte mère.

    • Tirez délicatement et doucement le câble d'antenne jusqu'à qu'il soit sous le lecteur de cartouches de jeu.

    • Continuez de tirer le câble jusqu’à ce que le connecteur sorte de sous le lecteur du côté droit.

    • Lors du ré-assemblage, le câble risque de se coincer ou d'être difficile à enfiler. Dans ce cas, passez un fil sous le lecteur de cartouches puis attachez-le au connecteur du câble pour tirer celui-ci sous le lecteur.

    I can't for the life of me get this freaking antenna cable back when putting everything together, it keeps getting stuck under slot-1 ... how do you aid it through? I'm just pushing it through using the cable itself, but the connector gets stuck somewhere close to the other side and the cable pushing won't do anything but flex the cable.

    Peter Marquardt - Réponse

    I had some .015" solder that I fed through the other side and wrapped around the antenna cable to help guide it when I was feeding it back through.

    Josh McBroom - Réponse

    Fantastic guide, although you !@#$%^&* :P forgot to add that you need a Soldiering Kit at the LAST step, thanks..

    Nate River - Réponse

    I did mine without have to soldier, but then again I was cannibalizing the upper screen from one DS to another.

    Christopher Till - Réponse

    Tried to add this but unsure if it will stay but here is my advice for the cable feeding.

    When reassembling and attempting to feed the antenna cable back under the DS Lite game cartridge reader the cable will likely kink and be difficult to feed through.

    Therefore tie a piece of white cotton (or another visible colour) thread tightly around the cable, just below the connector. Then feed the cotton under the DS Lite game cartridge reader and through to the other side. Then gently guide the connector back through by pulling on the white thread and moving either up or down to clear obstacles.

    Joel Spencer - Réponse

    Attach a thread to the antenna wire BEFORE removing the antenna. Pull the antenna throught with the thread attached. After you get the antenna out, cut the thread from the antenna but LEAVE THE THREAD threaded thru the cartridge slot. Tape it to the cartridge slot so it doesn't fall out while you're working on the DS. After repairing, re-tie the thread to the antenna and use the thread to pull the antenna back thru to where it belongs. PULL GENTLY!

    J S - Réponse

    If u remove a bit material from the cover its actually possible to rout this cable over the game card slot.

    yKekS Yzz - Réponse

    Cable went right back thru for me! LOL!

    Kayla - Réponse

    What I do is run the antenna cable between my fingers to get it as straight as possible. Then I gently feed it under the cartridge slot slowly with the connector facing up. I stop at the slightest resistance and jiggle it back and forth to get it going again. Works every time.

    Deepak - Réponse

    it was ez until i tried to put it back >:(

    RealUmbreon440 - Réponse

    If the black connector is face down (circle down) it has just enough clearance between all the bits under the card slot. You'll notice if you peek through that you have more width to play with closer to the slot than the board.

    Fine Line - Réponse

  13. : étape 13, image 1 de 2 : étape 13, image 2 de 2
    • Utilisez votre ongle ou le bout plat d'une spatule pour soulever délicatement le clapet de verrouillage de la nappe de la vitre tactile.

    • Assurez-vous que vous soulevez le clapet de verrouillage et non la prise même.

    • Utilisez la pointe de la spatule pour tirer la nappe de la vitre tactile tout droit hors de sa prise.

    The little black ribbon clip broke off and now I can't put it back on. What do I do now???

    Peter Diaz - Réponse

    Same Problem here :( touc dosnt work anymore

    Christian Zimmermann -

    Mine did the same thing, will it still work?

    If I take it to a shop could they fix it????

    Hayden “HayHay” Becker -

    There should be an added caution remark when removing the ribbon cable from the connector. If the black clip breaks, you're screwed. I have found the connector on another website for about $6. Then the issue is having the right tools to remove the broken connector and soldering on the new one.

    Ted - Réponse

    How in the world do you get the ribbion cable back in there?

    brent buser - Réponse

    I think this is the most difficult step! You need to be most cautious here!

    Karsza M - Réponse

    This requires care to make sure the black clip does not break off. If it does, replacing that connector will be a microsoldering job likely to exceed the value of the board.

    It is also worth noting, that you can simply leave this connector as you found it and not remove the ribbon cable, and still complete this repair. Unless you intend to remove the lower LCD from the mainboard or if it is interfering with the microphone cable (white) routing, it will not be an issue.

    Leaving this connected will also help keep the lower LCD from flopping around when you remove the mainboard.

    Christian DeYong - Réponse

    This is tricky! I used my finger nail to open it since I was scared to put too much strenght with a spudger. Be really careful when moving the retaining flap. Just open it 90°, no more or you’ll breack it!

    Putting back the ribbon of the (new) touch screen was the hardest part. The ribbon was bent to the side and my fingers too big to grab it withouth bumping on the mother board.

    I finally found that holding the mobo with my left hand, looking at the ribbon from behind and pushing it with my index was more convenient, although my index was bumping on the retaining flap, thus partially closing it. After many trials and sweat, I finally inserted it and closed the flap! But the ribbon detached from te slot! :’( I put it back easily this time (after reopening the flap of course). And closed the retaining flap, pushing a bit harder this time, making sure I could feel a “click” confirming the proper closing. Don’t put too much strenght on it though!

    The slot to insert it is so tiny! Use a magnifying glass if you can.

    Guilhem Gobet - Réponse

    How do I reconnect the cable? Or should it be out?

    Aiden - Réponse

    The microscopic flap came off in this step and I think you can’t ever put it back on, given you have no space to work with. This should really be explained better.

    Julien Vandermeersch - Réponse

    Yeah the instructions should clearly say don't bend the flap back more than 90 degrees. I recommend closing it as soon as you remove the ribbon cable so that it doesn't get caught on something and break while you're working on the board.

    Deepak - Réponse

    Has anyone had any luck replacing the retaining flap if it just falls out? Mines not broken, I just can't figure out how to get it back in.

    IslandGo - Réponse

    This step permanently ruined my DS Lite. The pictures aren’t helpful at all.

    Leon - Réponse

    You don’t need to remove this flap if you’re not removing the touchscreen (and even so, you can do it later). The touch and LCD screen can come out with the motherboard, so this cable doesn’t interfere with the disassembly.

    George Marques - Réponse

    The cable won’t go back in, and got damaged whilst I attempted to put it in.

    Stevemmaahd - Réponse

    This step didn't warn that the black retaining flap is easily breakable. Not only can it come off easily but hinges can break off. Unknown if kapton tape will be able to hold this in or if this part can be ordered third party. Very stupid explanation of the step. Broke my digitizer permanently while only trying to make a minor repair. Looks like this is a common complaint and the guide should be immediately taken down, edited, and then only put back up when it is safe.

    Guide should have to explain how to mend or replace this part if it breaks since it's such a common problem.

    jen dickson - Réponse

    This cable is so difficult to get it back in.

    Max Playz - Réponse

  14. : étape 14, image 1 de 1
    • Enlevez les deux vis cruciformes de 3,4 mm qui maintiennent la carte mère sur la partie supérieure du boitier.

    This has changed since, the right hand screw has been replaced by a screw under the battery, I didn’t have this screw in mine

    Samuel Parkin - Réponse

  15. : étape 15, image 1 de 1
    • Ouvrez la DS de manière à pouvoir pousser le bord avant de la carte mère hors du boitier.

    • N'essayez pas d'enlever la carte mère, car elle est toujours connectée à l'écran par la nappe de l'écran LCD supérieur.

  16. : étape 16, image 1 de 2 : étape 16, image 2 de 2
    • Utilisez un ongle ou la partie plate d'une spatule pour relever le rabat de la nappe de l'écran LCD supérieur.

    • Prenez garde à bien relever le rabat et non la prise même.

    • Éloignez la carte mère de la DS Lite pour séparer la nappe de sa prise sur la carte mère.

    • Retirez la carte mère de la DS Lite.

    • Vous pouvez maintenant ouvrir le rabat de l'écran LCD inférieur de la même manière que celui du supérieur et séparer la carte mère de l'écran LCD inférieur.

    this part on putting it back together is a straight nightmare, anyone got some tips on doing this quickly? i'm just getting a flickering bottom screen which is supposed to be an upper display connection problem, not sure if i'm getting the ribbon cable in deep enough. or an up close view of it in there so i know im not forcing it

    Corbin dallas - Réponse

    I don't think there's a quick way for this, but I can tell you that the piece at the end is supposed to fit in all the way, and stop when you get to the corners of the bottom of it. A better way to explain this: put it in until you no longer see the gold part of it, or until it reaches the orange part of it.

    SquidCake -

    After my first reassembly, the top screen was not working (bottom screen briefly flashind and DS turning off imediatly after swithcing on).

    I found out it is the top screen that is not connected correctly.

    You have to insert the ribbon until the part which is wider than the rest of the ribbon, almost bumps on the white connector.

    This was too difficult with just my (too big) fingers. I used the spudger to push the ribbon from behind and maintain it when closing the retaining flap. This is kinda tricky, but it worked!

    Guilhem Gobet - Réponse

    Guilhem's point is crucial - the ribbon connectors wider wings must be only a miniscule fraction away from the connector, or you'll get the flash screen of death. This is well worth checking especially as the later stages of manipulating the ribbon through the silver ring (if doing a full shell replacement) can make you feel like you're damaging the ribbon cable. Also check to make sure the black clip is fully closed, otherwise even the smallest movement during reassembly will pull it back out.

    Casey - Réponse

  17. , Coque supérieure: étape 17, image 1 de 1
    • Retirez les deux vis cruciformes de 8,3 mm qui attachent la coque à l'ensemble écran.

    These screws were a bit too tight, but I bet it's for a reason. You should probably put it back on as tightly as it was before.

    SquidCake - Réponse

  18. : étape 18, image 1 de 2 : étape 18, image 2 de 2
    • Tirez la nappe de l’écran LCD vers la droite, à travers la fente dans la coque.

    • Poussez la nappe à travers la fente.

  19. : étape 19, image 1 de 2 : étape 19, image 2 de 2
    • Soulevez lentement la coque supérieure à l'opposé de l'écran, en vérifiant que la nappe ne reste pas coincée.

  20. : étape 20, image 1 de 2 : étape 20, image 2 de 2
    • Une fois la nappe sortie de la coque, tirez les câbles d'antenne et Wi-Fi à travers le trou dans la coque.

    • Enlevez la coque supérieure de la DS Lite.

  21. , Joint de l'écran supérieur: étape 21, image 1 de 2 , Joint de l'écran supérieur: étape 21, image 2 de 2
    • Utilisez une épingle pour enlever les quatre cache-vis du joint supérieur.

  22. : étape 22, image 1 de 1
    • Retirez les quatre vis cruciformes de 3,4 m, qui fixent la partie arrière et la partie avant du joint de l'écran.

  23. : étape 23, image 1 de 2 : étape 23, image 2 de 2
    • Utilisez le coin d'une spatule (spudger) pour enlever les deux dispositifs en caoutchouc du joint de l’écran.

  24. : étape 24, image 1 de 2 : étape 24, image 2 de 2
    • En utilisant vos deux mains, faites glisser le joint vers le haut.

    • Le joint devrait glisser d'environ 2 mm.

    I wish I would have read this guide instead of watching videos that did not show this part. Because of this the rear bezel's tabs got deformed and now i can't put it back on. Trying to remove those tabs and just screw it in once its in place

    Vinnesia League - Réponse

  25. : étape 25, image 1 de 2 : étape 25, image 2 de 2
    • Insérez une spatule dans l'ouverture entre la partie avant et la partie arrière du joint de l'écran et séparez la partie avant de la partie arrière.

    • Soulevez la partie arrière du joint pour la détacher de l'écran.

  26. , Microphone: étape 26, image 1 de 3 , Microphone: étape 26, image 2 de 3 , Microphone: étape 26, image 3 de 3
    • Utilisez la pointe d'une spatule pour retirer les deux haut-parleurs de leur emplacement et déplacez-les derrière l'écran LCD.

    • Les haut-parleurs ont des aimants qui les tiennent ensemble, cela peut aider à les garder à l'écart lors des prochaines étapes.

  27. : étape 27, image 1 de 3 : étape 27, image 2 de 3 : étape 27, image 3 de 3
    • En commençant par le coin supérieur droit, séparez l'écran LCD du joint avant.

    • Continuez à les séparer le long des bords supérieur et gauche de l'écran LCD.

    • Enfin, poussez l'écran LCD vers le haut pour le détacher du joint.

    • N'essayez pas d'enlever l'écran LCD de suite, car le câble de l'écran passe encore à travers le joint de l'écran.

    For those putting the DS back together,be ABSOLUTELY SURE that the metal tube used for the hinge is positioned so the gap is 100% front facing, otherwise when opening and closing the lid it it can chew up the ribbon cable, wrecking all your hard work

    luv2nil8 - Réponse

    Any recommendations for where to get a good functioning LCD replacement?

    Quintin Harbin - Réponse

    HandheldLegend has a good one

    Nicholas -

  28. Cette étape n’est pas traduite. Aidez à la traduire

    : étape 28, image 1 de 1
    • Desolder the speakers from the upper LCD by heating up the solder joints with a soldering iron and simultaneously pulling the speaker wires away from the ribbon cable.

    • If you have never soldered before, we have a guide that makes it easy.

    • Speakers remain.

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Matthew Newsom

Membre depuis le 01/05/10

39 452 Réputation

67 tutoriels rédigés

3 commentaires

what is the temperature for soldering the speakers off and inserting it back in?

Cedric Izquierdo - Réponse

Wouldn’t be easier to just get to the speakers, desolder the wires at the speaker and resolder new ones in?

Charles BNies - Réponse

Wouldn’t it be easier just to get to the speakers, unsolder the wires at the speakers, and resoldered new ones in?

Charles BNies - Réponse

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