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Pièces & Outils

Introduction

Follow this guide to replace the motherboard in a Nintendo Switch video game console.

  1. Remove the four 6.3 mm Tri-point Y00 screws from the rear panel.
    • Remove the four 6.3 mm Tri-point Y00 screws from the rear panel.

    Please be careful with these screws. Your bit will go through them like butter and strip them if you're not careful. Speaking from experience.

    Benjamin Fryar - Réponse

  2. Remove the single 6.1 mm Phillips #000 screw from underneath the kickstand.
    • Remove the single 6.1 mm Phillips #000 screw from underneath the kickstand.

    Mine was no longer than about 1mm.

    Nani - Réponse

  3. Remove the two 2.7 mm Phillips #000 screws from the bottom of the device.
    • Remove the two 2.7 mm Phillips #000 screws from the bottom of the device.

  4. Remove the single 2.7 mm Phillips #000 screw from the top of the device.
    • Remove the single 2.7 mm Phillips #000 screw from the top of the device.

  5. Remove the single 3.8 mm Phillips #000 screw from the right Joy-Con rail. Remove the single 3.8 mm Phillips #000 screw from the left Joy-Con rail.
    • Remove the single 3.8 mm Phillips #000 screw from the right Joy-Con rail.

    • Remove the single 3.8 mm Phillips #000 screw from the left Joy-Con rail.

    Please do not use a JIS #0 bit on this kit. I ended up stripping the screw on my switch and now I won't be able to get inside. You are much more likely to remove this screw with a JIS #000 bit, like literally every other screw on this machine. Why I thought I should throughly read and follow the instructions is beyond me, because I guess this ifixit guy decided it would be a great meme to get people to ruin their switches.

    Jacob Klinkenberg - Réponse

    +1, JIS #0 seems way too large; I used a #00 and that worked. I agree that #000 might have worked even better, but I saw this comment too late.

    Nikolai Knopp -

    Mine was #000 too. #0 was definitely too large. Also there are signs of blue threadlock.

    Nani - Réponse

  6. Pull the rear panel up and off of the device. Pull the rear panel up and off of the device. Pull the rear panel up and off of the device.
    • Pull the rear panel up and off of the device.

    You appear to be missing a step. The SD card reader needs to be removed between steps 6 and 7.

    zharin - Réponse

  7. Remove the six 3.1mm Phillips #000 screws from the shield plate.
    • Remove the six 3.1mm Phillips #000 screws from the shield plate.

    Between Step 6 and Step 7, there is a missing step of disconnecting and removing the SD Card reader.

    Theo Mat - Réponse

    @theomat Step 7 and 8 show the removal of the SD Card reader.

    Blake Klein - Réponse

    Step 7 and 8 do not show that. It is completely missing. You show the card reader as being absent, but now how it came to BE absent. A lot of people will try to pull the shield out, presuming the reader is meant to come out with it. Why not update the guide?

    Daniel Henderson - Réponse

    Are you seeing something different then what’s seen in this screenshot? https://jmp.sh/PdfdhSy

    Blake Klein -

    @blakeklein I am not seeing that part of the tutorial, no.

    Nico Robin - Réponse

    Now I need to find the screw type of this sd card reader ^^

    Maybe my last 3.1mm philips #000 screw? (reassembling phase)

    Julien Plée - Réponse

  8. Remove the shield plate from the device. A thick pink thermal compound bridges the gap between the shield plate and the copper heat sink underneath. For best results, whenever the shield plate is removed, refer to our thermal paste guide to remove the old thermal compound and replace it with an appropriate, thick compound such as K5 Pro during reassembly. A thick pink thermal compound bridges the gap between the shield plate and the copper heat sink underneath. For best results, whenever the shield plate is removed, refer to our thermal paste guide to remove the old thermal compound and replace it with an appropriate, thick compound such as K5 Pro during reassembly.
    • Remove the shield plate from the device.

    • A thick pink thermal compound bridges the gap between the shield plate and the copper heat sink underneath. For best results, whenever the shield plate is removed, refer to our thermal paste guide to remove the old thermal compound and replace it with an appropriate, thick compound such as K5 Pro during reassembly.

    How do you know if the thermal paste needs to be replaced?

    Youji Hong - Réponse

    Once you remove a heatsink you must always replace thermal paste even if you had just applied it ( or add a little more) . The reason is that once heat sink is fitted, paste splits around because of pressure and only needed amount will remain. If you remove the heatsink then some paste will move so when installed again there will be spots without paste. Hope this is clear enough. In any case cost of paste is very small compared to work time and value of your equipment…..

    MacTek -

    I’d recommend replacing the thermal compound to ensure that the cooling system works as intended.

    Blake Klein - Réponse

    When your switch starts to lag and drop FPS, if you play breath of the wild and it starts to slow down in heavy areas like the forest where you get the master sword, can i use artic mx 4 insted of the pink compound?

    Diego Soto - Réponse

    I’d like to know as well if a cpu thermal compound like arctic mx-4 can be used to replace the pink compound

    Adam Stillman - Réponse

    No you shouldn't . It will spill around because it is not viscous enough and then there will be no heat transfer. As suggested by author K5 PRO is the most appropriate compound for such cases.

    MacTek -

    Arctic is generally only supposed to be used on bigger heat sinks like a personal computer. Its not nearly as thick or gummy compared to K5 PRO, and you should always use something that’s thicker for smaller project like a Switch/phone/tablet.

    Shawn Christensen -

  9. Insert the pointed end of a spudger underneath the white connector and pry upwards to disconnect the battery from the motherboard. Insert the pointed end of a spudger underneath the white connector and pry upwards to disconnect the battery from the motherboard.
    • Insert the pointed end of a spudger underneath the white connector and pry upwards to disconnect the battery from the motherboard.

  10. Remove the three 3.1mm Phillips #000 screws from the heatsink.
    • Remove the three 3.1mm Phillips #000 screws from the heatsink.

  11. Pull the heatsink up 45 degrees and rotate it to the right to remove. Before reassembly, follow the thermal paste guide. Clean all the thermal paste off the underside of the heat sink using isopropyl alcohol (>90%) or Artic Silver ArctiClean.
    • Pull the heatsink up 45 degrees and rotate it to the right to remove.

    • Before reassembly, follow the thermal paste guide.

    • Clean all the thermal paste off the underside of the heat sink using isopropyl alcohol (>90%) or Artic Silver ArctiClean.

    • Clean and replace the thermal paste on the processor cover.

    What's on the heatsink?

    Raven.K - Réponse

  12. Kits pour Nintendo Switch

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    Shop Switch Kits
  13. Use a clean fingernail to flip open the lock on the game card reader ZIF connector by prying it straight up. Use a clean fingernail to flip open the lock on the game card reader ZIF connector by prying it straight up. Use a clean fingernail to flip open the lock on the game card reader ZIF connector by prying it straight up.
    • Use a clean fingernail to flip open the lock on the game card reader ZIF connector by prying it straight up.

  14. Use the tip of a spudger to gently slide the game card reader ribbon cable out of its socket. Use the tip of a spudger to gently slide the game card reader ribbon cable out of its socket. Use the tip of a spudger to gently slide the game card reader ribbon cable out of its socket.
    • Use the tip of a spudger to gently slide the game card reader ribbon cable out of its socket.

  15. Use a Phillips driver to remove the two 3.1 mm screws from the headphone jack bracket. Use a Phillips driver to remove the two 3.1 mm screws from the headphone jack bracket.
    • Use a Phillips driver to remove the two 3.1 mm screws from the headphone jack bracket.

  16. Remove the headphone jack bracket.
    • Remove the headphone jack bracket.

  17. Use a Phillips driver to remove the single 3.1 mm screw from the headphone jack and game card board. Use a Phillips driver to remove the single 3.1 mm screw from the headphone jack and game card board.
    • Use a Phillips driver to remove the single 3.1 mm screw from the headphone jack and game card board.

  18. Use the tip of a spudger to disconnect the headphone jack by prying its connector straight up. The connector is partially obscured by the copper heat pipe. Make sure it disconnects completely.
    • Use the tip of a spudger to disconnect the headphone jack by prying its connector straight up.

    • The connector is partially obscured by the copper heat pipe. Make sure it disconnects completely.

  19. During reassembly, to seat the headphone jack connector, pull the entire game card reader board slightly toward the top edge of the Switch so that the headphone jack connector lines up with its socket. Use your spudger to press the connector down until it snaps into place. Press all along the top of the connector to make sure it seats correctly, including the area under the heat pipe.
    • During reassembly, to seat the headphone jack connector, pull the entire game card reader board slightly toward the top edge of the Switch so that the headphone jack connector lines up with its socket.

    • Use your spudger to press the connector down until it snaps into place.

    • Press all along the top of the connector to make sure it seats correctly, including the area under the heat pipe.

  20. Gently lift the game card reader board, starting with the headphone jack. Slide the game card reader board away from the copper heat pipe, and remove it. Slide the game card reader board away from the copper heat pipe, and remove it.
    • Gently lift the game card reader board, starting with the headphone jack.

    • Slide the game card reader board away from the copper heat pipe, and remove it.

  21. Disconnect the right loudspeaker from the motherboard. Disconnect the right loudspeaker from the motherboard.
    • Disconnect the right loudspeaker from the motherboard.

  22. Disconnect the left speaker from the motherboard. Disconnect the left speaker from the motherboard.
    • Disconnect the left speaker from the motherboard.

  23. Use a spudger to flip up the small beige locking flap on the display ZIF connector. Use a spudger to flip up the small beige locking flap on the display ZIF connector.
    • Use a spudger to flip up the small beige locking flap on the display ZIF connector.

  24. Use the pointed end of a spudger to slide the display ribbon cable out of the ZIF connector. Use the pointed end of a spudger to slide the display ribbon cable out of the ZIF connector.
    • Use the pointed end of a spudger to slide the display ribbon cable out of the ZIF connector.

  25. Use a spudger to flip up the small black locking flap on the power/volume button ZIF connector. Use a spudger to flip up the small black locking flap on the power/volume button ZIF connector.
    • Use a spudger to flip up the small black locking flap on the power/volume button ZIF connector.

  26. Use a spudger to flip up the small gray locking flap on the fan ZIF connector. Use a spudger to flip up the small gray locking flap on the fan ZIF connector.
    • Use a spudger to flip up the small gray locking flap on the fan ZIF connector.

  27. Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the white coaxial antenna cable from the motherboard. Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the white coaxial antenna cable from the motherboard.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the white coaxial antenna cable from the motherboard.

  28. Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the black coaxial antenna cable from the motherboard. Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the black coaxial antenna cable from the motherboard.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the black coaxial antenna cable from the motherboard.

  29. Use a spudger to flip up the small gray locking flap on the right Joy-Con rail ZIF connector. Use a spudger to flip up the small gray locking flap on the right Joy-Con rail ZIF connector.
    • Use a spudger to flip up the small gray locking flap on the right Joy-Con rail ZIF connector.

  30. Use a spudger to flip up the small black locking flap on the ZIF connector. Use a spudger to flip up the small black locking flap on the ZIF connector.
    • Use a spudger to flip up the small black locking flap on the ZIF connector.

  31. Use a spudger to flip up the small gray locking flap on the left Joy-Con rail ZIF connector. Use a spudger to flip up the small gray locking flap on the left Joy-Con rail ZIF connector.
    • Use a spudger to flip up the small gray locking flap on the left Joy-Con rail ZIF connector.

  32. Remove the four 2.50 mm JIS #000 screws from the motherboard.
    • Remove the four 2.50 mm JIS #000 screws from the motherboard.

    • Remove the two 3.14 mm JIS #000 screws from the USB-C port.

  33. Gently lift and wiggle the motherboard to remove.
    • Gently lift and wiggle the motherboard to remove.

    It should go without saying but make sure all ribbon cables are released and out of the way so you can lift the board out.

    Josh Lukins - Réponse

Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

11 autre(s) ont terminé cette réparation.

Blake Klein

Membre depuis le 29/01/2017

49 321 Réputation

49 tutoriels rédigés

Thanks for the guide, Blake. Just one thing: this guide skips over the removal of the MicroSD card holder and flex cable. This piece should be removed between steps 6 and 7.

Alec - Réponse

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