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Introduction

Voici comment enlever l'écran d'une Surface Pro 4. C'est la première étape de son remplacement et de beaucoup de réparations sur cet appareil.

La Surface Pro 4 a deux versions avec des écrans de différents constructeurs et avec des connecteurs différents. La version 1.0 a un écran Samsung et un connecteur à 25 broches, alors que la version 2.0 a un écran LG et un connecteur à 32 broches. Les deux types ne sont pas compatibles entre eux.

Il n'y a pas vraiment de moyen de déterminer l'écran que vous avez sans démonter l'appareil. Vérifiez le connecteur de votre ancien écran avant d'acheter le nouveau.

  1. Avant de commencer, déchargez la batterie de la Surface Pro en dessous de 25 %. Une batterie lithium-ion chargée peut prendre feu et/ou exploser si elle est endommagée accidentellement pendant la réparation.
    • Avant de commencer, déchargez la batterie de la Surface Pro en dessous de 25 %. Une batterie lithium-ion chargée peut prendre feu et/ou exploser si elle est endommagée accidentellement pendant la réparation.

    • Assurez-vous que l'appareil est éteint avant de commencer la réparation.

    • Si votre écran est craquelé, recouvrez-le avec des bandes de ruban adhésif d'emballage pour maintenir les éclats de verre et prévenir les blessures.

  2. L'écran est solidement collé au châssis de l'appareil.
    • L'écran est solidement collé au châssis de l'appareil.

    • Pour enlever l'écran, commencez par faire ramollir la colle en la chauffant. Vous pouvez utiliser un bloc chauffant, un pistolet à air chaud ou un iOpener. Si besoin, un simple sèche-cheveux fait aussi l'affaire.

    • Soyez très attentif en utilisant le pistolet à air chaud, car une chaleur excessive peut endommager l'écran de façon irréversible.

    • Chauffez de manière égale et régulière le périmètre de l'écran jusqu'à ce qu'il soit trop chaud au toucher, puis essayez de maintenir la température pendant plusieurs minutes. Attention à ne pas surchauffer l'appareil, vous risqueriez d'endommager l'écran.

    Instead of heating the glass directly, apply a light amount of heat to slightly soften the adhesive as you go and use a all metal xacto knife. Heat the knife blade directly and cut through the foam inside like butter. Stop every 3 inches and place some paper or spacer to keep the glass off the foam. Start at the top right or left side where there is an indent. On the bottom and side only need to go in 1/4”, top more like 1/2”.

    Ken Richards - Réponse

  3. Utilisez une ventouse ou un iSlack pour soulever la vitre et ouvrir un léger espace entre la vitre et le châssis en métal. Si l'écran est trop endommagé, il se peut que la ventouse n'adhère pas. Dans ce cas, il peut être utile de poser une couche de ruban adhésif. Il est aussi possible de coller avec de la colle forte votre ventouse à l'écran. Insérez un médiator dans l'espace.
    • Utilisez une ventouse ou un iSlack pour soulever la vitre et ouvrir un léger espace entre la vitre et le châssis en métal.

    • Si l'écran est trop endommagé, il se peut que la ventouse n'adhère pas. Dans ce cas, il peut être utile de poser une couche de ruban adhésif. Il est aussi possible de coller avec de la colle forte votre ventouse à l'écran.

    • Insérez un médiator dans l'espace.

    • Il y a des onglets dans les coins supérieurs droit et gauche, là où il est plus facile d'insérer un outil sous l'écran.

    • Faites glisser le médiator sur tout le long des côtés et du bas de l'écran afin de couper l'adhésif. Refaites chauffer si nécessaire.

    • La colle est plus fine sur le bord inférieur que sur les autres côtés. N'enfoncez pas l'outil trop loin ou vous risquer d'endommager l'écran de façon irréversible.

    • Faites attention : la vitre est fine et se casse facilement si vous tentez de forcer.

    • Séparez le côté supérieur de l'écran en dernier. Il y a des antennes sur les deux côtés, il ne faut pas les endommager. Si besoin, vous pouvez utiliser de l'alcool isopropylique pour ramollir l'adhésif.

    Do we need to glue the screen back on? How do we do this? What do we use? Thanks for this tutorial. I wonder if it's necessary to completely unplug the screen when replacing just the SSD

    mujzjiggy2k1 - Réponse

    They mention separate the top edge last to prevent antenna damage. I tried to be very careful but still ended up damaging 1 of three antennas. The antennas are directly under the glue and aren’t really that fragile. They key is heat. I was trying to be careful that the glue wasn’t hot enough anymore. If the glue is nice and soft it’ll easily separate from the antenna. Too cold and the antenna will stay with the screen…

    tgruetzm - Réponse

    WATCH OUT for the digitizer/LCD cables on the bottom left vertical edge, there are two flex cables that connect the digitizer to the LCD screen - make sure you don’t push the prying tool in too far or else you will rip the cables.

    Gorilla - Réponse

    Does the replacement screen have the MS logo?

    Harold Guerra - Réponse

    The trick is getting this started. I overheated the bottom of my display because the glue did not seem to soften. I found that you could not get any tool into the crack and the glass would not lift away. But in fact you don’t need that much heat. Set your heat gun to 200C (400F). Use a meat thermometer to measure it if needed. Then hold it about 2cm above the edge trying to keep the heat away from the actual screen. Go around and around slowly for a minute or so. Then apply the heat to the top right corner for about 10 seconds, moving the gun the whole time. You can get a guitar pick into the speaker hole and just lift the edge of the screen. Move the pick until you feel the glue is stiff again. Then heat another section of 5 cm for 10 seconds. Move the pick through that section. Shim the parts you have moved through with pieces of thin cardboard. Work slowly around the whole screen and you can remove it without any damage. Good example of this here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=egnSNnM7...

    Christopher Thompson - Réponse

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  5. Posez une ventouse sur le devant de l'écran. Avec la ventouse, séparez l'écran de la partie inférieure de la tablette. Vous devrez peut-être maintenir la partie inférieure avec vos mains.
    • Posez une ventouse sur le devant de l'écran.

    • Avec la ventouse, séparez l'écran de la partie inférieure de la tablette. Vous devrez peut-être maintenir la partie inférieure avec vos mains.

    • Il est généralement préférable de placer la ventouse sur la gauche ou la droite de l'écran plutôt qu'au milieu. Cela permet d'avoir un effet de levier plus important en enlevant l'écran.

  6. Deux nappes connectent l'écran au reste de la tablette. Débranchez la nappe de droite en insérant un outil d'ouverture en plastique sous le bord du connecteur puis en le soulevant vers le haut.
    • Deux nappes connectent l'écran au reste de la tablette.

    • Débranchez la nappe de droite en insérant un outil d'ouverture en plastique sous le bord du connecteur puis en le soulevant vers le haut.

    You can disconnect from the lcd rather than the motherboard, each cable has an EMI shield, a metal cover, over the connector, and the shield must be pried off first, then they disconnect easily by just prying up on the connectors

    Glen D - Réponse

    Don’t open the screen too much when trying to disconnect the cable, or the cable itself might break, like mine did.

    Adrien Crivelli - Réponse

  7. La connexion de la nappe de gauche est recouverte d'un petit boîtier en métal. Faites levier sur les bords avec une spatule (spudger) en plastique. Une fois qu'il est détaché, enlevez-le. Débranchez le connecteur avec un outil d'ouverture en plastique. Débranchez le connecteur avec un outil d'ouverture en plastique.
    • La connexion de la nappe de gauche est recouverte d'un petit boîtier en métal. Faites levier sur les bords avec une spatule (spudger) en plastique. Une fois qu'il est détaché, enlevez-le.

    • Débranchez le connecteur avec un outil d'ouverture en plastique.

    • L'écran devrait maintenant se détacher de reste de la Surface Pro. Soulevez-le et ôtez-le.

    • Avant d'installer un nouvel écran, vérifiez attentivement si des pièces doivent être transférées de l'ancien écran vers le nouveau. En particulier, vous devrez peut-être transférer la carte NTrig dans le coin en déconnectant les deux nappes qui y sont reliées et en la chauffant pour ensuite décoller délicatement la carte de l'écran.

    • Pour remplace l'adhésif de l'écran, enlevez avec précaution les résidus d'adhésif du châssis de l’appareil et de l'arrière de l'écran. Nettoyez et préparez la surface avec de l'alcool isopropylique et un chiffon non pelucheux, en essuyant dans un seul sens. Appliquez un ruban adhésif double-face solide, tel que le Tesa 61395 de 2 mm.

    I've done many phones and ipads in the past. I did 2 of these in a row. Both screens were broken before hand but I was unable to remove either of them completely without leaving fragments around the frame. This would suggest that replacing the drive on one with a good screen will require a replacement of the screen too. Do not put a tool into the speaker areas as it mushes up the screen and requires you to glue the screens back in. The screens I purchased did not have adhesive with them so you need to apply that before plugging the screen back in. I ran 1 or 2 stips of 2 mm tape depending on the with of the contact area. There was a metal cover over the right hand connector on mine. I found the metal covers easier to remove with a dental pick which I inserted into the small holes on each tab then levered up. You have to transfer a small board over to the new screen which requires heating. Make sure to connect the LCD to that board before sticking it back down. Ken Davison meditlondon.com

    ken - Réponse

    What adhesive do you recommend?

    Chris P -

    3M 9448A Double Coated Tissue Tape I just did my 3rd (10 min…I don’t think so) especially if display is shattered, this last screen came with tape strips and the backing looks exactly like this one I posted same color and lettering, its very mushy, rubbery make sure screen is perfectly aligned because once this stuff sticks thats it, no adjustment possible. I used a paper cutter the guillotine type to make the different widths from 1/4” strips.

    Ed tabickman -

    It took 1.5 hours to do the second one.

    ken - Réponse

Conclusion

Pour remonter votre appareil, suivez les instructions dans l'ordre inverse.

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Andrew Prater

Membre depuis le 01/02/2016

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4 tutoriels rédigés

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Metro State, Team 1-3, Carpenter Spring 2016 Membre de l'équipe Metro State, Team 1-3, Carpenter Spring 2016

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30 tutoriels rédigés

40 commentaires

Thank you for your guide.

I've removed the cracked screen from my Surface Pro 4 and hope to replace it with a new screen I bought on eBay. Unfortunately, the new screen doesn't seem to have the NTrig board attached to it.

Is it possible to remove that little board from the old screen? If so, how?

alex - Réponse

I'm also interested on this. as I can't find a screen seller that includes the NTrig board. Did you manage to do it, Alex?

Óscar Espeso Gil -

Yes you can heat up the board and remove it and move it over to the new screen. However my problem is that now I have a vertical dead spot about 2 inches wide from the "J" key to the "L" key up and down the screen. I can't find any damage to the cables or boards... I have replaced the screen twice now and nothing.

Jordan Mershon -

Same problem as the guy above, moved the n-trig board over, touch is unresponsive in certain spots, anyone find a solution to this?

Raul Garcia -

I'll be moving the board over as well, I am told to make sure the cables are completely connected, Check and Re-Check. This seemed to have fixed most problems with the touch being unresponsive in some area's.

jayroca23 -

hi guys, i have the same issue with the touchscreen after replacement. have you find a solution? I checked a couple of times but touch screen doesn't work. Instead if I use the pen, there are some dead spot.

Gabriele Corda -

What adhesive did you use to re-attach the screen?

alex - Réponse

Ok, So all fine in theory, but unless you broke your screen, like I did, it is IMPOSSIBLE to remove the screen without breaking it. Even with a full I Fix It toolbox and an I opener it took me 90 mins to get the screen off. The central parts come away quite easily but separated from the edges, but the glue tape is so strong it left sharp glass around the edge where the tape is.

This screen is less than 1/10th of a mm thick in places, you've got no chance of getting it off.

Jon Pertwee - Réponse

You need to heat it a lot. I used heat gun at 280°C and applied heat to the edges and kept it moving around the edges for 15 min. Then the edge was too hot to touch (around 120-150°C) and then it was easy to remove the screen. Be careful for the top antenna’s mine were stuck to the display instead of the bar below and I needed a new antenna.

Henri -

On the plusside, at least I can now upgrade the hard disk.. Yay.. 1TB here I come!!

Jon Pertwee - Réponse

I am unable to find a replacement glass anywhere? How did you guys find it on ebay?

Shubham Sharma - Réponse

Amazon is the only place I have found a screen....

Jordan Mershon -

What adhesive should i use to replace the screen?

Nick Skwarek - Réponse

Some of this might do the trick for you gentleman. https://www.amazon.com/NIUTOP-Double-Adh...

jayroca23 -

Tesa 4965, Tesa 61395 or Hi-bond VHB tape.

David Fear -

I seem to have missed the step where you explained what you sacrificed to which god in order to get the screen off in fewer than 500 pieces.

mad_bimmy - Réponse

should i save my files to an external drive before replacing the screen?

heyyy jaaaaaayyyyy - Réponse

note that you need to be very careful when prying the top left side of the display off: it's very easy to damage the wifi antenna!

Ned Danieley - Réponse

more so in top middle across 6", I replaced mine with aluminum tape and it worked really well

Ken Lebofsky -

Does anyone have a link to buy the actual replacement screen for Surface pro 4. The replacement screen in this video. Thank you in advance

Charles Myles - Réponse

At the top of the unit there is some very thin copper ribbon that tore when removing the adhesive, what is it? I need to replace it.

Ken Lebofsky - Réponse

It's the wifi/bluetooth antenna. You can not buy this part anywhere. I recreated the antenna using aluminum tape and I think the wifi is better than before!!

Ken Lebofsky -

Anyone have the issue of the screen being offset after reattaching? Anyone know which one of the connectors controls this?

Tess morgan - Réponse

I am not quite sure what you mean by offset but what this sounds like is that the N Trig board is not quite in the right position. The N Trig board is the L shaped board that you need to take from the old screen and stick it on the new screen. If you look at the opened tablet, on the bottom left area, as you look at the inside of the tablet, there is an L shaped space. The N Trig board must fit properly into this space or the screen will be skew or even stand proud. There is enough space for the N Trig board but not much space. If possible try lifting the screen again and repositioning the N Trig board. If that is not possible or may cause more damage than its worth you may have to live with the screen being offset. As a good ‘lesson learnt’ for this it is to position the new screen with all the bits connected in place before actually sticking it down so that you can make sure it sits correctly. That said I am not implying that you did not do that. ;o)

Paul Ingarfield -

This guide made it seem roughly 10 times easier to do than it turned out to be. Sunk ~$200 into fixing the screen on a $500 computer, and broke the screen when reinstalling it, and spent easily a couple hours frustratedly picking broken glass off the edges when taking off the old screen. I’m not blaming you for me being bad at computer repair, but maybe consider raising the difficulty?

Mark Blakeley - Réponse

Ouch, sorry to hear that. I haven’t worked on the Surface Pro much, but usually the challenge is to avoid breaking the screen when taking it off, as opposed to installing it. I agree with you about the difficulty level and bumped it up accordingly—there is nothing easy about working on a Surface Pro. Better luck on your next repair…

Jeff Suovanen -

All Right: where to buy screen - phoneremedies.com, comes with tools. If, like I did, you tear a ribbon cable, can find replacement at ipartexperts.com

My glass was shattered, so the big center part came out easily, too easily, before I knew it I’d torn a ribbon cable. I’m using a heating pad to warm the adhesive around the edges. This is a long monotonous process. Take extra care in the middle third section at the top. There is delicate antenna in this area. Moving the NTrig board will be the next joy. If anyone is wondering, no this isn’t easy…not for the faint of heart. Prying off the little aluminium cable pin covers is also nerve racking. You will bend them, but they can be bent back.

john brewer - Réponse

I think there should be a part for putting it back together, it’s not always as simple as ‘just do it in reverse’ for instance, what is the best adhesive to use and how much should you use? Those parts are not listed either. Maybe a new display bought from Ifixit has adhesive already applied but what if you are using a used display?

Glen D - Réponse

This should be entitled ‘Display Removal’ not ‘Display Replacement’. There is literally nothing here addressing the replacement part.

Glen D - Réponse

No mention of the antenae???? assembly at the top of the screen, that you can cut right through with a pick (near the camera and N-trig assemblies),

This is a really lame procedure that ends up giving false confidence to people you should just remove it if you can’t put all the important details on here

Glen D - Réponse

There are little round gaskets around at least 3 of the sensors/cameras on the sensor array area, and there are 3 antennae glued between the screen and the case on either side of the camera. THIS IS PRETTY IMPORTANT INFORMATION TO LEAVE OUT OF what is essentially a ‘teardown’ instruction posing as ‘replacement’ instructions. I really expected more form this web site, and anyone reading this should peruse youtube and watch MULTIPLE videos because a great deal of those don’t show these things either. The iOpener is for $@$*,you need a heat gun set to just below 200 F and once you get a pick in, heat in front of it, detach it while it’s easy, heat again, etc, and the top edge is much thicker and contains all the sensors. this has a lot of glue almost the whole thickness of the bezel. I haven’t found a way to separate without snagging one of the antennae but on the next try I will use more heat and go even slower. I would love to post a photo showing the exact position but see no way to…

Glen D - Réponse

Glen, this is a user-submitted guide. Your comments are fair, but rather than just criticizing, I would suggest using iFixit the way it’s meant to be used—as a wiki—and submit your own improvements to the guide. We generally allow any user to submit a repair guide, even if it’s imperfect, in the hopes that folks will use it and improve on it over time. Looking through the guide I can see some of your complaints are addressed in the comments, so I will go through and copy some of that info over to the steps where it’s a little more visible. Thanks for your feedback.

Jeff Suovanen -

I’m researching reasons my touch screen doesn’t work. I found this site, after I removed the old screen. I wished it was before my attempt, I would have had more insight into the process. But, I think I did okay, considering. The new screen is connected to the cables and I tested it, before the final “glue down”. However, the touch screen does not work and I’ve tried to re-seat the cables from the Ntrig assembly to the new screen many, many times and still, nothing. Is it possible the screen I purchased from an Amazon supplier can be defective? Has anyone had an issue with a defective screen? I’m considering purchasing another screen from a different supplier and try the connections, again, to rule this out. But, If you guys think it’s me and not the screen, I’ll gladly listen to any suggestions. Thanks, in advance, for any comments.

Linda Lewis

linleelew - Réponse

I t can be two different things:

1) You have a bad screen

2) You damaged the N-Trig Board or it was damaged when the screen was originally damaged which can happen. Unless you try a combination both both you may not know. It you are doing these Surface Pro 4 repairs in bulk, it is a good idea to keep both those parts in stock.

Abdullah -

after replacing my display the screen would not turn on. i confirmed the surface still worked by pluging in an external monitor. the device would respond to touch but it would not display anything on the new monitor

Joseph Allen - Réponse

Awesome repair guide.

Have removed the screen only to find it is not a Pro 4 screen on the Pro 4. A little confused but having done research on the LCD connector it is saying it is the LG screen not the Samsung one! I did not realise there were two different screens for this model until this point.

The removed screen is the same as the Pro 5 (2017) screen. But it came off the Pro 4…….

The LCD connector on the Pro 4 screen is shorter than the connector for the Pro 5 (2017). So a Pro 4 screen can not be connected to this Pro 4.

So my question is this. Can the Pro 5 screen be fitted to this Pro 4 safely ?

JO HILL - Réponse

Would a 1796 screen work as replacement for a Microsoft Surface Pro 4 1724? Would that solve the flickering problem?

Bernardo - Réponse

i have the same question… did you fix it?

carritoschocones -

So my problem is that the touch doenst work in all parts (right 2cm of screen wont work) and also the pen stopped working. But the display is in ggood shape and it didnt shatter. My question is: IF (which after reading this doesnt seem too likely) i manage to get the display off without breaking it can changing the N-trig board help? Like does it have all the touchscreen/pen components or could it also be a display problem?

Viktor Steinbrecher - Réponse

Hi iFixit

I want to ask about surface pro screen part. I have customer surface pro 4 screen flickering and want to replace the LED Screen. Someone said, surface pro 4 screen only last about 1 year before it will start flickering again and he suggested using Surface pro 5 screen, since they are the same.

Is this true? What about camera holes? Are the placed exactly to fit both surface pro 4 and 5?

Cin Lung Chen - Réponse

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