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Introduction

Utilisez ce tutoriel pour ouvrir votre iPad Mini 3 et remplacer l'écran.

  1. Remplacement de l'écran LCD de l'iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi, Chauffer un iOpener: étape 1, image 1 de 2 Remplacement de l'écran LCD de l'iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi, Chauffer un iOpener: étape 1, image 2 de 2
    • Nous recommandons de nettoyer le micro-ondes avant de commencer. D'éventuels restes au fond risquent d'adhérer à votre iOpener.

    • Placez l'iOpener au centre du micro-ondes.

    • Pour les micro-ondes à plateau tournant : assurez-vous que le plateau tourne bien. Si votre iOpener se coince, il risque de surchauffer et de brûler.

    I didn't find this to be as hard as I had built it up in my mind to be; HOWEVER, saying that I need to say years ago I was the local Nokia service center in my town. But many years ago right after they got rid of analog times. Yeah. A classic installer/repairer mistake when starting something they haven't fixed or installed before is picking up the instructions, flipping through them; maybe even reading a section that is new-then tossing the instructions over the shoulder. "I got this." This usually comes right before something major gets broke. And I can tell you when you try to do it yourself and then mess it up horribly then take it to the repair shop. Well we called that "I can do it myself" syndrome and charged extra to put back together what they brought in in the box. Now knowing all this - I can't stress this enough because I am stupid, stupid, stupid. COVER YOUR SCREEN IN CLEAR BOXING TAPE AND READ ALL THE INSTRUCTION BELOW THROUGH TO THE END BEFORE EVEN ATTEMPTING THIS FIX. Take my advise.

    windizy - Réponse

    I didn't have an iOpener, so I used a wheat type heat bag. If you do this though, make sure you put a layer of plastic between your Mac and the bag, or you'll get condensation in places you don't want it.

    Martin Gray - Réponse

    I started out using the iOpener but switched to my wife's hairdryer. A heat gun or hair dryer proved to be much more convenient and is a time saviour. You can heat more and the glue becomes more fluid make the next steps with the opening picks much easier

    Jan Van Puymbroeck - Réponse

    I know this is obvious, but backup your iPad with iTunes before you start. I'd also turn off your passcode if you have one.

    Laurie Higgins - Réponse

    Ther first time you heat up the iOpener for this repair when its room temperature I had to heat it up for more than 30 seconds. I remember I had to heat it up for around 45 seconds. However, after that when you need to reheat it again during the repair 30 seconds will be enough.

    Yousef Ghalib - Réponse

    I used the wheat bag in a sensor microwave heating up to 65-70 deg C (155 def F).

    ian cheong - Réponse

    Get yourself a cherry pit bean bag the size of your iPad. Heat it, put the iPad on it for 3 to 5 minutes or so, reheat the cherry pit bean bag, again put your iPad on it. Then heat the iOpener and start working. The cherry pit bean bag will have to be reheated several times, but it will soften the adhesive so you have less problems with the iOpener

    Tim Feyaerts - Réponse

    The heating can be done very effectively (and quickly) with 3d printer heated bed. Make sure the bed is clean. Set the temperature to 60c, (130f ) and put the ipad face down for +/- 10 minutes. Repeat as needed throughout the “gentle prying” stages.

    polleyphony - Réponse

    The iOpener did not work at all for me.

    I had to use a heat gun and bring the edges of the case up to ~200 degrees (used an infrared thermometer to measure) before the glue would weaken. This obviously superheated the metal frame, so I also had to wear gloves to handle the phone while prying the back off with the included picks.

    Mike Jeanette - Réponse

    Repair instructions worked like a charm. Had to be patient with the iOpener and getting the screen off. I tried repeatedly without success until shifting the suction cup a bit to the left side where perhaps the glue had loosened up a bit more.

    Kyle - Réponse

    The iOpener, in my opinion, is of no help. Many warnings to say “don’t warm it too much”, but the glue doesn’t melt if not warm enough. As a result, a complete waste of time and energy. In addition, too much liquid in it, so it doesn’t lay on the device on a sufficient surface. I took a hairdryer and it worked much much better.

    laurentvidu - Réponse

    I used an immersion bath to heat this to 180F and applied it to the device until the outside temperature of the opener read 150F with an IR thermometer. Removing the screen took very little force with this method.

    breadandbits - Réponse

    My experience. I was replacing the screen which had been cracked and a little shattered in some places. The iopener is pretty much useless, so was the suction cup. The suction cup would probably be more useful if I was doing something besides the screen. Also you probably want the clean the screen before using it so it can get good suction. I used a hair dryer on high for a couple of minutes at a time (someone on this tread suggested that). I used my exacto knife and a razor blade to get into the adhesive. First the exacto to get the initial cut, then the razor blade to go a little deeper. Could have probably just used the razor blade, but the exacto has a little more finesse. I got the razor blade in and a little under the glass then I used the picks to wedge in. I didn’t want to risk anything using the razor blade too much. Used tape to keep the shattered glass together.

    trebor65 - Réponse

    My experience pt2

    Fortunately the shattering was mostly on the edges and most of it had adhesive on the back so it stuck together. Just take your time and work your way around following the guide to get the screen off. Have some goof off or goo be gone to clean the frame when putting the new glass on or putting the existing one back. (someone suggested that also, very good idea). Be careful of the LCD (you should know that). The cable on my LCD was pretty tight, so I propped it up while taking the cable cover off and when I put it back on I did the same thing. I just put a bottle on the battery and leaned the back of the LCD on that while attaching the cables and putting the screws back on the cover. Also be careful with the home button and the bracket on the back of it. I had enough old adhesive on left on the bracket that it stuck back to the new glass fine. So far only 12 hours in, so we will see how that holds up when the kids get at it.

    trebor65 - Réponse

    Another alternative if you do not have the iopener is to use a bed time hotwater bottle. Do not over fill it though. Just put enough hot water in to support the phone while you work around the adhesive.

    I use both the hot water bottle and iopener together on Samsung's. It makes life easier

    gazza667 - Réponse

    I followed the directions and heated my iOpener for 30 seconds in a 1000 watt microwave, and it came out at 160 degrees F, as verified by a infrared thermometer. This allowed me to separate the last bit of the back of my Samsung S8, which was already coming off due to a swollen battery (hence the reason for the repair).

    Dennis - Réponse

    Hallo,habe den Akku erfolgreich getauscht.Doch seitdem gibt es bei Telefonaten eine Rückkopplung für den anrufenden.Bei mir ist alles normal.Woran liegt das?Mfg

    Manu R - Réponse

    If you follow these instructions, you will crack your screen like I did. Heating the iOpener for 30 seconds, using it to melt glue, then waiting 10 minutes to reheat is useless. The iOpener can be used to maybe warm the glue on whatever side you aren’t working on. You need a hairdryer and/or a heat gun to melt the glue and separate the glass from the iPad.

    Anyone want to buy an old iPad with broken glass and a dead battery?

    mpulliam - Réponse

    Not everybody has a microwave. You should provide a target temperature for the iOpener and instructions for a conventional oven, or pot of warm water, or whatever. Although I will probably use a heat gun …

    Esmond Pitt - Réponse

    Three times heating opener and no luck. Tried pressing down gently on opener with a towel, and the opener broke. Wondering if I now replace table mats, fancy table cloth, etc. or will this stuff wash out.

    Not impressed so far. Maybe the hair dryer next.

    doug - Réponse

    I support the comments about the iOpener. Everyone has a hair drier, FHS, so get a cheap IR thermometer (£18) and blow heat until the area is 60+ deg C. Still takes w while, and getting the screen off is v scary, but just add more heat if you feel resistance.

    The rest of the kit is good, esp the magnetic screwdrivers.

    Richard O'Brien - Réponse

    No, everyone does not have a hairdryer. Some of us don’t even have hair. Thank goodness I already had an IR thermometer, though.

    nin10doh -

    #### WARNUNG WENN MINIMALSTER SPRUNG IM DISPLAY IST FUNKTIONERT DAS NICHT!!! ######

    Hatte einen winzigen, minimalen Sprung im Display. Ich dachte es könnte gehen, weil der Sprung “abgeschlossen” war. Er hat in einer Ecke ein winzige Glasteil rausgeschnitten. NEIN! Geht nicht. Habe alles mit viel Geduld dem iOpener und einem Föhn erhitzt. Es ist trotzdem sofort über das komplette Display zersprungen…

    T z - Réponse

    I’ve started with iOpener but changed very quickly to a heatgun. That was more efficient.

    Mizzoo, s.r.o. - Réponse

    I could not get the iOpener hot enough to melt the glue on my ipad 6. I heated for 45 seconds once and it was boiling and it still never worked. Thank goodness contributors mentioned using a hair dryer. Using an 1700w hair dryer on high did the trick to get the screen off. Still took some time and the case got pretty hot but be patient. It took twice as long and a lot more patience to get the battery out.

    Randal Haufler - Réponse

    I have an Ipad with touch screen issue, if i replace this part it should be Ok?

    janderson martin - Réponse

    WARNING - DO NOT MICROWAVE ON A METAL MICROWAVE RACK

    The metal microwave rack can heat up and melt through the iOpener cover letting the contents leak out.

    Not a big issue for me as I have a heat gun and used that instead.

    Run Up A Tree - Réponse

    I opened my iPad with the iOpener. Be patient! It may take quite a bit longer to it the iOpener in the microwave than it says in the guide. My microwave can only do 800W and I had to put the iOpener in several times (maybe a total of 90-120 seconds). I recommend that you have the transparent side up an watch the bag carefully. As long a the bag doesn't bloat up and the liquid doesn't start bubbling you should be fine. But I recommend to take the iO out from time to time to check it. (More comments in Step 6.)

    marcelflueeler - Réponse

  2. Remplacement de l'écran LCD de l'iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi: étape 2, image 1 de 1
    • Chauffez l'iOpener pendant trente secondes.

    • Comme l'iOpener refroidit au cours de la réparation, rechauffez-le à nouveau au micro-ondes, mais ne dépassez pas les trente secondes à chaque fois.

    • Faites attention de ne pas surchauffer l'iOpener pendant la réparation. En cas de surchauffe, l'iOpener risque d'exploser.

    • Ne touchez jamais l'iOpener s'il vous paraît gonflé.

    • Si le milieu de l'iOpener est encore trop chaud au toucher, continuez à l'utiliser jusqu'à ce qu'il soit assez froid pour le chauffer à nouveau. Un iOpener correctement chauffé devrait rester chaud pendant environ 10 minutes.

    I had to heat mine up for more than 30 seconds. After 30 seconds on high it was only warm. It had to keep trying different times and checking it until it got hot. I think the initial time that I put it in for was over a minute.

    whale13 - Réponse

    DO NOT USE IN NON ROTATING MICROWAVE! It will pop a hole. I had it in for 45 seconds the first time. It wasn't very hot inside and I saw it started to leak on the paper towel I put under it. Just a fair bit of advice. I think I will just stick with the heat gun. Loud but useful.

    Alex Jackson - Réponse

    I heated mine up for 30 seconds, tested, then again for 30 seconds. It felt adequately hot. Leaving it on the left side, per the instruction, for a minute did not loosen the adhesive. I ended up pulling the suction cup hard enough to shadder the old screen. Moral of the story, I don't think it gets hot enough safely to have an affect.

    Travis Dixon - Réponse

    There is a clear problem here with the heating part using the iopener things....no details are given. Whoever is testing them needs to make it clear - What temperature does it need to be? And for which phone models, because they differ in what's needed. It's only £10-15 for a laser guided temp sensor unit, and the designers/repairers should have one of those already for doing these kinds of repairs. Explaining half a repair, is worse than not explaining at all :-(

    assortedrubbish - Réponse

    All phones/devices differ it’s unrealistic and unsafe to put a exact time/temperature needed to soften the adhesive. It’s really quite simple you warm the device evenly and in a controlled manner just enough to enable pry tools and picks to begin separating. Best tool in my opinion but again this is because I have experience is a hot plate and heat gun both of which are used at nearly the lowest settings and I can handle flat palming the plate for almost 10 seconds I leave the device to conduct heat until approx it’s about 110 at most 120 ish this will be plenty to soften all the adhesive if any problem areas I use heat gun while prying. Again you need go slowly and learn with a throw away phone

    Greg Latta -

    I used a hot water bottle, works well as it covers the whole screen and stays hot for longer.

    dave - Réponse

    If I may suggest include your microwave wattage so people can get an idea on time for there own

    Patrick Storey - Réponse

    I ended up using a hair dryer. That iOpener thing took forever.

    mark fitzgerald - Réponse

    30 seconds sure isn’t cutting it… 45 didn’t get the screen of my iPad air 2 to budge either… even after resting on the ipad for 4 minutes.

    60 seconds in the microwave, the iOpener burst.

    I’ll get a new one and try once more with heating it 45 seconds and repeat that for 30 minutes like others have said here. If that doesn’t work it’ll have to be the heat gun.

    K

    Karl Marble - Réponse

    I can’t recommend the microwave. If the the iOpener becomes too hot, it bursts. Better put the opener in cooking water. Dry it and use it. Instead of an iOpener you can use hot/cool packs as well.

    Bernhard Keim - Réponse

    Great idea with using the heat packs. I will try that next time. Thank you

    Collins -

    Trust the directions! I forgot and left it in the Microwave too long and after 1 minute I had Mt Vesuvius - the iOpener burst and spewed the goodies out. The problem is, the Digitizer can be damaged by a hot air gun, so I had to tough out and remove the glue the hard way. I made it … with lots of patience! Tough lesson.

    Larry Bennett - Réponse

    I also used a hairdryer. I used it on the low setting and I cut a piece of carboard to protect the rest of the screen. The iFixit tool and method is vert tedious and very time consuming in comparison. With the hairdryer method you can literally have the display apart in a few minutes. Using your other hand nearby the area you are heating it should be very hot but not enough to burn your hand. You only have to heat metal part of case near glass edge. If you have a cellular model then you need to be very careful because the black antenna area is plastic. So less heat and work your way up in adding heat just enough to separate around the area but not so much you melt the plastic!

    Fixrights - Réponse

    iOpener was the worst part of the kit. Followed directions for :30 in microwave and took 4 trips to the microwave to loosen adhesive on left side of home button. I thought I was figuring it out and it was working well… even set a timer to wait 10 minutes between heating it up. Was on the right side and was on my 12th heat up when it exploded in the microwave. My only tip is that if you set it clear side up, as soon as you see any bubbles or boiling in the liquid, STOP! If you put a pot holder over the iOpener and press slightly to make good surface contact, that seemed to help. I finished heating with a “Corn Sack” that held heat better than the provided iOpener.

    digital_only - Réponse

    Mon iopener n'a pas tenu une réparation. Je ne vous conseille pas ce produit

    Berard Romain - Réponse

    Bonjour,

    Nous sommes désolés que votre réparation ne se soit pas déroulée comme prévu. Il se peut que le produit était défectueux. Veuillez contacter notre service client support@ifixit.com (boutique américaine) ou eustore@ifixit.com (boutique européenne) en décrivant ce qui s’est passé.

    Claire Miesch -

    Readers looking for temperature advice might check the comments of the previous instruction, as there are more there. I used an immersion bath to heat this to 180F and applied it to the device until the outside temperature of the opener read 150F with an IR thermometer. Removing the screen took very little force with this method.

    breadandbits - Réponse

    Thank you for posting some actual temperatures. I have a heat gun with a very fine self-temperature regulation setting capability.

    I will set it for 150-180 F, and use that to soften the adhesive.

    G Trieste -

    I followed the directions and heated my iOpener for 30 seconds in a 1000 watt microwave, and it came out at 160 degrees F, as verified by a infrared thermometer. A second heating about 15 minutes later in the micro and it came out at 190 degrees F. Plenty hot enough to soften the adhesive for removing the back on my S8. Based on the comments above I think people just need to use more patience.

    Dennis - Réponse

    I used various time settings. It got very hot. It would soften the glue but not a whole lot. If my screen had been intact and I was replacing something that was not a digitizer, it may have worked. A broken screen makes the process significantly more difficult. I ended up breaking the home button cable. Good bye TouchID…

    cvela90 - Réponse

    After reading previous comments I didn't even use the i-opener. Used the heatgun ( hairdryer ) which works great for me. Maybe I was lucky as this is my first attempt at replacing a cellphone battery. Motoz 3

    Collins - Réponse

    It appeared 30 seconds were not enough, so I heated it more, by 5 seconds at a time until I got the right temperature about 70 degrees Celsius (measured with infrared pistol) to get the screen heated up to 60 C, the best for softening the glue. But the heat was quickly dissipating by the big aluminum back cover, so the best I got in 2 minutes of applying iOpener was around 45 C, which made the procedure difficult and having risk of breaking the screen. So I eventually abandoned iOpener and user a hot air gun with precise temperature setup. I set it to 90 C, which allowed me to open my iPad quickly and safely.

    Sergey Kofanov - Réponse

    I, too, ended up using a hot air gun. I’ve done earlier versions of iPad before but the adhesive used on this IPad 5 A1822 was particularly difficult to remove.

    Also, while the suction cup worked great when the glass is in tact, any cracks in the glass make the suction cup useless.

    manningrl - Réponse

  3. Remplacement de l'écran LCD de l'iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi: étape 3, image 1 de 1
    • Sortez l'iOpener du micro-ondes en le tenant par l'une des deux extrémités plates, car le centre de l'outil risque d'être brûlant.

    • L'iOpener sera très chaud, alors soyez prudent en le manipulant. Utilisez une manique si nécessaire.

    I did this repair. I used a hair dryer, I think it works better: gets very hot fast.

    Cobus de Beer - Réponse

    I did too, you get far more control and no expense on fancy equipment.

    Billinski -

    Readers looking for temperature advice might check the comments of the previous instruction, as there are more there. I used an immersion bath to heat this to 180F and applied it to the device until the outside temperature of the opener read 150F with an IR thermometer. Removing the screen took very little force with this method. I don’t know how much microwaves vary in heating consistency with these pads, but knowing how inconsistent the temperature of a bowl of plain rice gets in my microwave, I wasn’t interested in even trying to use it for this.

    breadandbits - Réponse

    I used an electric griddle set to the lowest setting. It seemed to work very well.

    John - Réponse

    I vote for the hair dryer. The other methods work too but if you aren’t having any luck, switch to the hair dryer. While holding the iPad in my hand, I found that I am aiming the dryer at my finger at the same time and it gauges how hot it is. I stop when my finger can’t take it - maybe five seconds up close. Repeat as needed like I did.

    Robin - Réponse

    This thing melts when placed up side down in the microwave…

    Mark - Réponse

  4. Remplacement de l'écran LCD de l'iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi, Méthode alternative pour chauffer un iOpener: étape 4, image 1 de 2 Remplacement de l'écran LCD de l'iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi, Méthode alternative pour chauffer un iOpener: étape 4, image 2 de 2
    • Si vous n'avez pas de micro-ondes, suivez cette étape pour chauffer votre iOpener dans de l'eau bouillante.

    • Remplissez une casserole ou une poêle avec suffisamment d'eau pour immerger complètement un iOpener.

    • Faites chauffer l'eau jusqu'à ébullition. Puis éteignez le feu.

    • Placez un iOpener dans l'eau chaude pendant 2 à 3 minutes. Assurez-vous que l'iOpener est complètement immergé dans l'eau.

    • Utilisez des pinces pour extraire l'iOpener chauffé de l'eau chaude.

    • Séchez soigneusement l'iOpener avec une serviette.

    • L'iOpener sera très chaud, veillez. donc à ne le tenir que par les languettes aux extrémités.

    • Votre iOpener est prêt à être utilisé ! Si vous devez réchauffer l'iOpener, portez l'eau à ébullition, éteignez le feu et placez l'iOpener dans l'eau pendant 2 à 3 minutes.

    What do I do if I don’t have a iopener?

    alexdelarge103@gmail.com - Réponse

    2 or 3 cups Rice in a sock, heat for about 2 minutes. But, I recommend the iopener.

    Robert Garcia - Réponse

    When boiling in water you can put the iopener in a ziplock to keep it dry.

    Robert Garcia - Réponse

  5. Remplacement de l'écran LCD de l'iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi, Plaque de protection de l'écran LCD: étape 5, image 1 de 3 Remplacement de l'écran LCD de l'iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi, Plaque de protection de l'écran LCD: étape 5, image 2 de 3 Remplacement de l'écran LCD de l'iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi, Plaque de protection de l'écran LCD: étape 5, image 3 de 3
    • Si la vitre de votre appareil est fêlée, pour éviter toute autre casse et de vous blesser, il est préférable de recouvrir la vitre de bandes adhésives.

    • Placez des bandes adhésives transparentes se chevauchant sur l'écran de l'iPad jusqu'à ce que tout la face soit couverte.

    • Cela permettra de ne pas faire tomber les éclats de verre contenus et de garder une certaine stabilité lorsque vous ferez levier et enlèverez l'écran.

    • Faites de votre mieux pour suivre le reste du tutoriel tel que décrit. Cependant, une fois que le verre est cassé, il continuera sûrement à craqueler et vous devrez peut-être utiliser un outil en métal pour dégager les éclats de verre.

    • Il est recommandé de porter des lunettes de sécurité pour protéger vos yeux. Attention à ne pas non plus abîmer l'écran LCD.

    Need some extra instruction on how to handle a truly shattered glass. There was only one spot that the suction cup would even hold on the whole screen - top right, and even with tape there is very little structure to drive a pick under. how do you handle that?

    Greg Crawford - Réponse

  6. Remplacement de l'écran LCD de l'iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi: étape 6, image 1 de 1
    • En le manipulant par le attaches de chaque côté, placez l'iOpener chauffé sur le côté de l'iPad à gauche du bouton home.

    • Laissez l'iOpener agir pendant environ cinq minutes pour ramollir l'adhésif sous le verre.

    Can you explain how using the iOpener ? That's can be great !

    Matthieu Nasri - Réponse

    The iOpener used is essentially a bag of gel, which you put in the microwave for 30 seconds. You lay this against the screen edges to transfer heat and loosen up the glue.

    You could also use a hot-air blower with a re-work station but that's up to you. Mine worked well up to 150°C

    Sam Attwood -

    what about heating a cloth bag filled with rice in the microwave? Would that work?

    SkipR - Réponse

    That might work! Rice is less likely to get, and stay, hot enough. But it can't hurt to try! Just be sure you're being patient and letting it really warm up before you pry. People have had luck double bagging a washcloth dipped in very hot water, too.

    Sam Goldheart -

  7. Remplacement de l'écran LCD de l'iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi: étape 7, image 1 de 3 Remplacement de l'écran LCD de l'iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi: étape 7, image 2 de 3 Remplacement de l'écran LCD de l'iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi: étape 7, image 3 de 3
    • Posez soigneusment une ventouse au milieu de la partie chauffée.

    • Assurez-vous que la ventouse adhère à l'écran sur toute sa surface pour obtenir un joint étanche.

    • Tout en maintenant l'iPad enfoncé d'une main, tirez sur la ventouse pour séparer légèrement la vitre du panneau frontal de la coque arrière.

    • Veillez à soulever le vitre de juste ce qu'il faut pour insérer un médiator, car vous risqueriez de la briser en soulevant trop.

    I'm having trouble getting the suction cup to stay connected to the screen to pull it. It just isn't creating a seal no matter how flat I make it. I thought maybe the crack was causing it, so I tried tape. I originally didn't put tape on it because it wasn't losing glass. The tape made it worse of creating a seal. Any advice?

    William - Réponse

    After following instructions to cover cracked glass with packing tape, the suction cup won’t adhere at all. Not even a little bit. Any suggestions?

    Brian Tate - Réponse

    I had that exact problem when I fixed an Iphone 8. What I did was that I put some ducktape where the suction cup would be placed. That worked for me. That’s of course is if you where doing to replace the glass anyway.

    Pontus Sennerstam -

    I had a screen on an iPad 4 that was so shattered that I literally had to spend 2.5 hours picking every single piece of glass out with tweezers after pulling the few larger pieces off with tape on them. Sometimes you need a lot of patience to be successful. The final cleaning out of the sticky tape along the sides is also very important once the glass is removed. Or the new screen will stick out an/or not go in neatly.

    Michael Burger - Réponse

  8. Remplacement de l'écran LCD de l'iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi: étape 8, image 1 de 3 Remplacement de l'écran LCD de l'iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi: étape 8, image 2 de 3 Remplacement de l'écran LCD de l'iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi: étape 8, image 3 de 3
    • Tout en tenant la vitre avec la ventouse, insérez la pointe d'un médiator dans l'espace entre la vitre et le reste de l'iPad.

    • N'insérez pas le médiator plus profondément que le cache noir sur le côté de l'écran. L'insérer trop loin peut endommager l'écran LCD.

    • Tirez la ventouse en plastique pour ouvrir le joint d'étanchéité sous vide et retirez la ventouse de l'écran.

    Could I use some guitar picks? If so, what gauge (thickness) of a picks should I get?

    SkipR - Réponse

    I'm not sure what the correct balance of thickness to strength you'd need, maybe try a couple different types. The idea is to be thin and fit into the smallest gap, but if it gets bogged down in adhesive, it needs to be strong enough to push through. Be sure to use heat and be patient!

    Sam Goldheart -

    i have to use a blow dryer and pack that came with the replacement is there anything i could do to make the adhesive more hot?

    Ace of Spades - Réponse

  9. Remplacement de l'écran LCD de l'iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi: étape 9, image 1 de 1
    • Refaites chauffer et remettez l'iOpener.

    • Veillez à ne pas surchauffer l'iOpener pendant la procédure de réparation. Attendez toujours au moins dix minutes avant de réchauffer l'iOpener.

    • Laissez-le agir pendant quelques minutes pour réchauffer le bord gauche de l'iPad.

    Well if you want to save some time and your screen is shattered just pry up one corner either left or right side at the top and tear the whole screen off going down towards the home button but do not completely remove the screen there is a wire connecting the digitizer to the board inside but tearing off the screen will skip you down to step 29 :-) i seen this in a video and saved me about an hour after the fact because my screen was cracking as i was inserting the blue picks so i ripped the whole screen off and used some adhesive remover to get off all the extra goo leftover

    Chris Grayden - Réponse

  10. Remplacement de l'écran LCD de l'iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi: étape 10, image 1 de 3 Remplacement de l'écran LCD de l'iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi: étape 10, image 2 de 3 Remplacement de l'écran LCD de l'iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi: étape 10, image 3 de 3
    • Placez un deuxième médiator juste à côté du premier et faites-le glisser le long de l'iPad, en décollant l'adhésif au fur et à mesure.

    • Tout au long du reste de la procédure, si vous rencontrez une grande résistance en faisant glisser les médiators sous la vitre, arrêtez et réchauffez la section sur laquelle vous travaillez. Forcer les médiators risque de briser la vitre.

    I found that all the following step were much easier for me using a heat gun while keeping the pull on the screen with the suction cup. Basically heat up a section, put the suction cup on, keep pulling the screen upwards on that side, while using the heat gun to continuously heat along the side. It came nicely off, one or two inches at a time. Once I had a whole side up, I just put some of the picks in to keep it up and continued along the side, heating, pulling, heating pulling. This obviously only works if the screen is not totally shattered. Mine only had two cracks.

    Michael Burger - Réponse

  11. Remplacement de l'écran LCD de l'iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi: étape 11, image 1 de 3 Remplacement de l'écran LCD de l'iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi: étape 11, image 2 de 3 Remplacement de l'écran LCD de l'iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi: étape 11, image 3 de 3
    • Continuez à déplacer le médiator vers le bas de l'écran pour décoller l'adhésif.

    • Si le médiator reste coincé dans l'adhésif, faites-le tourner sur le côté de l'iPad, en continuant à décoller l'adhésif.

  12. Remplacement de l'écran LCD de l'iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi: étape 12, image 1 de 3 Remplacement de l'écran LCD de l'iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi: étape 12, image 2 de 3 Remplacement de l'écran LCD de l'iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi: étape 12, image 3 de 3
    • Prenez le premier médiator que vous avez inséré et glissez-le vers le coin supérieur de l'iPad.

    • Si vous pouvez voir la pointe du médiator à travers la vitre, ne paniquez pas, tirez-le juste un peu. Tout se passera certainement bien, mais évitez, car vous pouvez mettre ainsi de l'adhésif sur l'avant de l'écran LCD et c'est difficile à nettoyer.

  13. Remplacement de l'écran LCD de l'iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi: étape 13, image 1 de 1
    • Refaites chauffer l'iOpener et placez-le sur le bord supérieur de l'iPad, sur la caméra frontale.

    • Veillez à ne pas surchauffer l'iOpener pendant la procédure de réparation. Attendez au moins dix minutes avant de le refaire chauffer.

    • Si vous avez un iOpener flexible, vous pouvez le plier pour chauffer le coin supérieur gauche et le bord supérieur en même temps.

  14. Remplacement de l'écran LCD de l'iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi: étape 14, image 1 de 3 Remplacement de l'écran LCD de l'iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi: étape 14, image 2 de 3 Remplacement de l'écran LCD de l'iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi: étape 14, image 3 de 3
    • Faites glisser le médiator le long du coin supérieur gauche de l'iPad pour décoller l'adhésif.

  15. Remplacement de l'écran LCD de l'iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi: étape 15, image 1 de 3 Remplacement de l'écran LCD de l'iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi: étape 15, image 2 de 3 Remplacement de l'écran LCD de l'iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi: étape 15, image 3 de 3
    • Faites glisser le médiator le long du bord supérieur de l'iPad, en vous arrêtant juste avant d'atteindre la caméra.

    • La troisième image montre où la caméra frontale et son boîtier se trouvent dans l'iPad.

    • Évitez de faire glisser le médiator sur la caméra frontale, car vous risquez de mettre de l'adhésif sur la lentille ou d'endommager la caméra. Les étapes suivantes détaillent comment éviter d'endommager la caméra frontale.

  16. Remplacement de l'écran LCD de l'iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi: étape 16, image 1 de 3 Remplacement de l'écran LCD de l'iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi: étape 16, image 2 de 3 Remplacement de l'écran LCD de l'iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi: étape 16, image 3 de 3
    • Tirez légèrement sur le médiator et faites-en glisser tout doucement la pointe le long de la section de la caméra frontale.

  17. Remplacement de l'écran LCD de l'iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi: étape 17, image 1 de 3 Remplacement de l'écran LCD de l'iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi: étape 17, image 2 de 3 Remplacement de l'écran LCD de l'iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi: étape 17, image 3 de 3
    • Laissez le médiator dans l'iPad un peu plus loin que la caméra frontale.

    • Prenez un deuxième médiator et insérez-le à gauche de la caméra, là où le premier médiator était. Faites-le glisser vers le haut pour décoller complètement tout adhésif restant.

    • Laissez le deuxième médiator en place pour éviter que l'adhésif dans l'angle recolle lorsqu'il refroidit.

  18. Remplacement de l'écran LCD de l'iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi: étape 18, image 1 de 3 Remplacement de l'écran LCD de l'iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi: étape 18, image 2 de 3 Remplacement de l'écran LCD de l'iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi: étape 18, image 3 de 3
    • Insérez le médiator de l'étape précédente plus profondément dans l'iPad et faites-le glisser de la caméra vers le coin.

    If you have the LTE there is a cable on the right upper side! There’s no mention of this in this guide even though it’s for the LTE. I found out after the fact when I saw I cut the cable with the pick.

    Will Lyon - Réponse

    Will Lyon, you may want to look again. This is the guide for the WiFi version.

    mcr4u2 -

  19. Remplacement de l'écran LCD de l'iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi: étape 19, image 1 de 1
    • Laissez les trois médiators dans les coins de l'iPad afin d'empêcher que l'adhésif recolle à nouveau au panneau frontal.

    • Réchauffez l'iOpener et placez-le sur le côté long restant de l'iPad – le long des boutons de volume et de verrouillage.

  20. Remplacement de l'écran LCD de l'iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi: étape 20, image 1 de 2 Remplacement de l'écran LCD de l'iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi: étape 20, image 2 de 2
    • Faites glisser le médiator supérieur droit autour du coin pour décoller complètement le bord supérieur du verre.

    • Laissez ce médiator en place pour empêcher l'adhésif de recoller et prenez un nouveau médiator pour l'étape suivante.

  21. Remplacement de l'écran LCD de l'iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi: étape 21, image 1 de 3 Remplacement de l'écran LCD de l'iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi: étape 21, image 2 de 3 Remplacement de l'écran LCD de l'iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi: étape 21, image 3 de 3
    • Insérez un nouveau médiator et faites-le glisser jusqu'au milieu du bord droit de l'iPad, en décollant l'adhésif au fur et à mesure.

    This is not an LTE ipad mini 3, it is a wifi ipad mini 3

    lordofmordor - Réponse

  22. Remplacement de l'écran LCD de l'iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi: étape 22, image 1 de 3 Remplacement de l'écran LCD de l'iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi: étape 22, image 2 de 3 Remplacement de l'écran LCD de l'iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi: étape 22, image 3 de 3
    • Continuez à glisser vers le bas de l'iPad jusqu'au prochain angle, en décollant l'adhésif.

  23. Remplacement de l'écran LCD de l'iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi: étape 23, image 1 de 1
    • Laissez les médiators en place et refaites chauffer l'iOpener.

    • N'oubliez pas de ne pas surchauffer l'iOpener, pas plus d'une fois toutes les dix minutes

    • Disposez l'iOpener réchauffé du côté bouton home de l'iPad et laissez agir pendant quelques minutes pour ramollir l'adhésif sous le verre.

    For those who are replacing a severely shattered front panel, be aware that there are two smart cover magnets attached to the interior side of the front panel that you will need later. Keep an eye out for them (see steps 49 and 50 below for pictures of what these tiny magnets look like) so that you don't have to go digging through the debris later.

    Jeff G - Réponse

  24. Remplacement de l'écran LCD de l'iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi: étape 24, image 1 de 3 Remplacement de l'écran LCD de l'iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi: étape 24, image 2 de 3 Remplacement de l'écran LCD de l'iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi: étape 24, image 3 de 3
    • Faites glisser le médiator inférieur gauche vers le coin inférieur gauche pour décoller l'adhésif dans ce coin.

    • Laissez le médiator dans le coin. Ne le poussez pas plus loin et ne le retirez pas de l'iPad.

    • Il y a un certain nombre de choses à éviter sous le cache inférieur, alors étudiez attentivement la troisième image :

    • Antennes

    • Emplacement du bouton home

    • Nappe de la vitre tactile

    • Les étapes suivantes vous diront où faire levier pour éviter d'endommager ces composants. Chauffez et faites levier seulement là où c'est indiqué.

  25. Remplacement de l'écran LCD de l'iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi: étape 25, image 1 de 3 Remplacement de l'écran LCD de l'iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi: étape 25, image 2 de 3 Remplacement de l'écran LCD de l'iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi: étape 25, image 3 de 3
    • Laissez le médiator de la dernière étape en place pour éviter que l'adhésif recolle.

    • Faites glisser le nouveau médiator légèrement au-dessus de l'antenne de gauche, avant de vous arrêter avant le bouton home.

    • Faites délicatement glisser le médiator depuis bord extérieur vers le centre de l'iPad. Ne le déplacez pas vers le bord extérieur, car cela pourrait endommager l'antenne.

    • Si vous devez passer plus d'une fois le médiator dans la partie inférieure, retirez-le et réinsérez-le sur le bord extérieur et faites-le glisser vers l'intérieur.

    • Laissez le médiator en place avant de continuer.

  26. Remplacement de l'écran LCD de l'iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi: étape 26, image 1 de 3 Remplacement de l'écran LCD de l'iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi: étape 26, image 2 de 3 Remplacement de l'écran LCD de l'iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi: étape 26, image 3 de 3
    • Insérez la pointe d'un dernier médiator à côté de celui de l'étape précédente et faites-le glisser sous le bouton home.

    • Arrêtez à environ 2,5 cm du côté droit pour éviter de couper la nappe du LCD.

    • Insérez le médiator légèrement plus profondément et retournez vers le bouton home.

    • Encore une fois, assurez-vous de seulement faire glisser le médiator vers le centre de l'iPad lorsqu'il est complètement inséré. Sinon, vous risquez d'endommager l'antenne sous le verre.

    Do NOT insert the pick much deeper to the right of the home button, you can easily damage the fingerprint ID chip.

    kimhoover - Réponse

    There is no fingerprint id chip in an iPad mini 2 (retina)

    blakebest -

    Be very careful in the vicinity and to the right of the home button. Only insert the very tip of the pick (similar to the instructions earlier for by the camera). Do not try to go beneath the home but as suggested here, just along the glass edge. I damaged the small metal clip under the button and detached the IC tape from the button, meaning I had to replace the glass touch screen with digitiser and home button.

    PeterB - Réponse

  27. Remplacement de l'écran LCD de l'iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi: étape 27, image 1 de 1
    • Refaites chauffer et reposez l'iOpener sur la partie supérieure de l'iPad.

  28. Remplacement de l'écran LCD de l'iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi: étape 28, image 1 de 2 Remplacement de l'écran LCD de l'iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi: étape 28, image 2 de 2
    • Faites très attention pendant cette étape. Prenez votre temps et assurez-vous que l'adhésif est chaud et mou, et que vous avez coupé tout l'adhésif avec un médiator. N'ayez pas peur d'arrêter et de refaire chauffer.

    • En haut de l'iPad en face du bouton home, vous devriez avoir un médiator dans chaque coin. Faites pivoter les médiators pour soulever légèrement la vitre et décoller le dernier adhésif le long des quatre bords.

    • Si vous rencontrez une grande résistance, arrêtez de pivoter. Laissez les médiators en place, refaites chauffer et reposez l'iOpener sur les zones problématiques avant d'y faire passer un médiator une fois de plus.

  29. Remplacement de l'écran LCD de l'iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi: étape 29, image 1 de 2 Remplacement de l'écran LCD de l'iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi: étape 29, image 2 de 2
    • Soulevez lentement et délicatement pour continuer à détacher l'adhésif le long du bord inférieur.

  30. Remplacement de l'écran LCD de l'iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi: étape 30, image 1 de 2 Remplacement de l'écran LCD de l'iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi: étape 30, image 2 de 2
    • Une fois que tout l'adhésif a été séparé, ouvrez le verre avant comme une page dans un livre et posez-le sur votre espace de travail.

    • Si vous réutilisez cette pièce lors du remontage, vous devrez remplacer votre adhésif. Consultez notre tutoriel de pose de bandes adhésives pour écran d'iPad afin d'appliquer une nouvelle couche d'adhésif et de recoller votre appareil.

    This picture and several others that follow are not for the "LTE" model.

    Tim Osborn - Réponse

    Some of the steps, including the comments, are replicated between guides.  Be aware! This can render them somewhat generic, and possibly non-optimal.  For instance, this step is replicated between at least the mini 2 LTE, mini 2 Wi-Fi, mini 3 LTE, & mini 3 Wi-Fi.

    ciradrak -

    Maybe that’s because this is for the WiFi model.

    mcr4u2 -

    Remember to remove the old black adhesive from the digitizer and iPad frame. Some can be pulled out and some needs a sharp blade to remove. This will give you room to apply your new adhesive strips when reassembling.

    Yousef Ghalib - Réponse

  31. Remplacement de l'écran LCD de l'iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi: étape 31, image 1 de 3 Remplacement de l'écran LCD de l'iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi: étape 31, image 2 de 3 Remplacement de l'écran LCD de l'iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi: étape 31, image 3 de 3
    • Le boîtier de la caméra frontale peut rester accroché au panneau frontal. Décollez-le et placez-le sur la caméra pour la protéger.

    • Faites pivoter le boîtier de la caméra sur un bord pour le décoller de l'adhésif et retirez-le du panneau frontal.

    • Remettez le boîtier de la caméra à sa place dans la coque arrière.

  32. Remplacement de l'écran LCD de l'iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi: étape 32, image 1 de 2 Remplacement de l'écran LCD de l'iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi: étape 32, image 2 de 2
    • Retirez les vis cruciformes #00 suivantes qui fixent l'écran LCD :

    • Tris vis de 3,3 mm

    • Une vis de 4,5 mm

    • Si un ruban adhésif recouvre les vis du LCD, décollez-le avec une pincette.

    This is VERY IMPORTANT please be sure to put the screws EXACTLY how they were when you removed them otherwise your screen will not rotate when you put the new digitizer on. i closed my ipad thinking everything was ok but now the screen does not automatically rotate, but lucky i jailbroke my ipad first and have an activator gesture to rotate for me :-)

    Chris Grayden - Réponse

    stripped the screws at the home button side of the ipad and the precision screw extractor set is too big to work. help?! paramedic064@gmail.com

    paramedic064 - Réponse

    We have some great posts on Answers about getting stripped screws out, you can refer to What are your tips/tricks for removing or extracting stripped screws? for advice, or ask a new one and see if someone can come up with new ideas. We also have a stripped screw removal guide for you to check out. Good luck!

    Sam Goldheart -

    I found that Phillips #000 work better then the Phillips #00 for this entire product. I'll be recommending a change to the fix kit as well.

    William - Réponse

    This is a tip:

    I have a terrible time cleaning the lcd because no matter how hard I try not to touch it, I always get smudges! So take my advice…remove the front film from the new digitizer and place it over the lcd. It is bigger so you can cut it down or just lift it to get to the screws. Now no fingerprints and also less chance for scratches. The front side is easy to clean once it’s installed so need to have that covered while working-the insides are what needs protecting.

    mamashannon4u - Réponse

  33. Remplacement de l'écran LCD de l'iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi: étape 33, image 1 de 2 Remplacement de l'écran LCD de l'iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi: étape 33, image 2 de 2
    • N'essayez pas de retirer complètement l'écran LCD. Il est toujours collé en place et connecté à l'iPad par plusieurs nappes à l'extrémité du bouton d'accueil. Soulevez uniquement à partir de l'extrémité de la caméra frontale.

    • Insérez l'extrémité plate d'un spudger sous l'écran LCD entre celui-ci et la plaque de protection de l'écran LCD et soulevez doucement.

    • Faites très attention de ne pas enfoncer la spatule sous la plaque de protection, mais bien entre l'écran LCD et la plaque.

    • Si vous déformez même légèrement l'écran LCD, cela peut l'endommager de façon irréversible. Faites donc extrêmement attention en le soulevant.

    • Vous pouvez essayer ces méthodes de retrait alternatives pour réduire les risques d'abîmer l'écran LCD :

    • Faites passer une fine ficelle (du fil dentaire ou une ligne de pêche par exemple) sous l'écran, de haut en bas.

    • Servez-vous d'une fine carte flexible ou d'un billet de banque en plastique pour trancher l'adhésif de haut en bas.

    Be very careful not to get the spudger under the shield plate, but between the LCD and the shield. Also, not that on the LTE models, the antennas are at this end and there is a bit of adhesive holding this end of the LCD down.

    Tim Osborn - Réponse

    This bit of adhesive is located beneath the foam, and runs the entire length of the antennas. You must lift the foam and detach the tape before you're able to get the top to come out the chassis

    James - Réponse

    This is not present in this tutorial and is very frustrating. I fix it must look into this

    James - Réponse

    I have seen countless comments about the LCD breaking when trying to remove it from the LCD shield with adhesive. I have found a simple solution. Once the 4 screws have been removed take a piece of fishing line (longer than the iPad) and simply run it beneath the top of the LCD from one side to the other. Once it's in place, gently pull it down applying equal pressure from both sides. The fishing line will break the adhesive in the process, freeing the LCD. It has worked for me every time.

    bababooey - Réponse

    Thanks for the fishing line suggestion. It certainly worked for me (used 6lb test line). With using the fishing line, one is a lot less likely to break the LCD compared to using a spudger.

    rgstout -

    awesome tip thanks

    Pa Du -

    The tutorial procedure should be edited once and for all to instruct to detach the adhesive strip from the top of the LCD prior to attempting to lift it. Failure to do so will invariably result in a broken LCD!!!

    The simplest way to do that is to first gently remove the foam strip running around the top of the LCD with a pair of tweezers. Only then will the shiny metallic adhesive tape be visible and accessible.

    lorenzocangiano - Réponse

    I found that if you take two flat plastic spurgers and run one down each side together it works fairly well. Just take your time.

    Abbot - Réponse

    The LCD is extremely fragile, DO NOT allow it to bend or you will break it. The adhesive near the speakers that connect to the LCD are a danger spot and if you pull wrong you could break the LCD. Be careful.

    Timothy McEvoy - Réponse

    Yeah, I broke my LCD because the guide did not specify the glue on the top portion if you have an LTE model. I didn’t even try hard at all. I tried to lift it with the plastic spudger and saw that it did not move. Came to check the comments and when I looked back the top corner was already broken.

    Thanks iFixit! Awesome guide

    Jorge Tamez - Réponse

  34. Remplacement de l'écran LCD de l'iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi: étape 34, image 1 de 3 Remplacement de l'écran LCD de l'iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi: étape 34, image 2 de 3 Remplacement de l'écran LCD de l'iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi: étape 34, image 3 de 3
    • L'écran LCD est fixé par un adhésif doux qui doit être décollé avant de séparer l'écran LCD de sa plaque de protection.

    • Insérez le spudger entre l'écran LCD et la plaque de protection de l'écran LCD et faites-le glisser vers le haut de l'iPad.

    Hi. I noticed that the tutorial is for an LTE iPad mini 2. However, these pictures do not show and LTE device. I'm having issues removing the LCD from the iPad due to the antenna. Any suggestions? (How to remove antenna?)

    Kevin Rodriguez - Réponse

    This step needs extra detail on how the LCD adhesive should be loosened. I've now got stress marks on the LCD which show up when solid backgrounds are displayed on screen as the LCD flexed when trying to pry it out.

    Cool_Breeze - Réponse

    I have seen countless comments about the LCD breaking when trying to remove it from the LCD shield with adhesive. I have found a simple solution. Once the 4 screws have been removed take a piece of fishing line (longer than the iPad) and simply run it beneath the top of the LCD from one side to the other. Once it's in place, gently pull it down applying equal pressure from both sides. The fishing line will break the adhesive in the process, freeing the LCD. It has worked for me every time.

    bababooey - Réponse

    Great tip about the fishing wire because you will most certainly crack the LCD just yanking it out. Thank you and hit em with the hein

    Curtis Jordan Lenox - Réponse

    I found that if you take two flat plastic spurgers and run one down each side together it works fairly well. Just take your time.

    Abbot - Réponse

    The LCD is extremely fragile, DO NOT allow it to bend or you will break it. The adhesive near the speakers that connect to the LCD are a danger spot and if you pull wrong you could break the LCD. Be careful.

    Timothy McEvoy - Réponse

  35. Remplacement de l'écran LCD de l'iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi: étape 35, image 1 de 2 Remplacement de l'écran LCD de l'iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi: étape 35, image 2 de 2
    • Deux bandes larges adhésives relient l'écran LCD aux haut-parleurs.

    • Tenez l'écran LCD d'une seule main et la partie arrière de l'iPad de l'autre.

    • N'essayez pas d'enlever complètement l'écran LCD de l'iPad.

    • Retirez doucement l'écran LCD des haut-parleurs pour décoller les bandes adhésives, en prenant soin de ne pas tirer sur la nappe du tactile.

    this was a pain to remove but the two pieces of tape should be separated using your spudger so that you can remove the lcd.

    Chris Grayden - Réponse

    absolutely. lift the screen 45 degrees before pulling it too

    Billinski -

    The screen was a tight fit in the recess. Whilst maneouvering it out, it flexed a little. Once reassembled, there are now feint stress marks visible when the screen displays a uniform background. With photos it's not noticeable, but on solid backgrounds, it is very noticeable. :-(

    Be careful when pulling the LCD out. Any hints for pulling it out safely should be added to this step.

    Cool_Breeze - Réponse

    This step is bad advise. Once you get the LCD unglued top and sides, drop those plastic tools behind it to keep it up and apply heat to the front bottom of the LCD where the tape is applied on either side, use your spudger to push the tape away before you attempt to pull or flip the LCD over. It is very easy to break if you don't get the tape loose enough, so do yourself a favor and free the LCD from the tape before you attempt to maneuver it.

    brentschwartz - Réponse

    I have seen countless comments about the LCD breaking when trying to remove it from the LCD shield with adhesive. I have found a simple solution. Once the 4 screws have been removed take a piece of fishing line (longer than the iPad) and simply run it beneath the top of the LCD from one side to the other. Once it's in place, gently pull it down applying equal pressure from both sides. The fishing line will break the adhesive in the process, freeing the LCD. It has worked for me every time.

    bababooey - Réponse

    As others have said this step is rather problematic and following the tuturial instructions will most definitely lead to damaging the LCD. One problem is that the two adhesive tapes are not indicated in the photo: they are large and black and they are partly covered by long strips of thicker material that looks like padding. To remove them it helps to heat a little with the opener and then one can slowly peel them away by alternating the sharp and flat tips of the spudger.

    lorenzocangiano - Réponse

    This must be the most difficult part. I took the advice of using fishing line and it worked a treat. However, due to lack of knowledge - I managed to slice straight through the LCD ribbons (all of them). I figure it was glue so kept going! Please take not that fishing line is only good for the sides, not the top where the LCD is attached! New LCD on order for round 2.

    Mike - Réponse

    Well. I cracked the LCD during this process, so another $100. But, it’s the journey that counts, right? There is adhesive keeping the LCD attached to the aluminum shield. As I was prying the LCD up (I didn't know about the adhesive), I did hear feint cracking. Also it is too tight to try to flip the LCD over as shown. I did heat the bottom strips, but still tried to do it as shown, more cracking. It seems best to heat it and push the adhesive strips back and separate them prior to lifting. As well as the sides of the LCD for lifting!!

    William Dailey - Réponse

    I separated the small tape in the middle (5mm), and the large upper tape (20mm), but left the lower tape at the connector in place. That way, the LCD was much easier to pull away gently and to tilt over.

    peterhebbinckuys - Réponse

    I used a needle nosed tweezers to remove the tape on the bottom left and right. I then used the plastic spudger and went between the LCD and the metal piece. I gently went down the left side about half way and then the right and slowly and gently worked both sides until they separated.

    Abbot - Réponse

    This step is unclear and should be revised, but Abbot’s comment has the right idea.  The tape holding the LCD in place should be highlighted in the image. This tape wraps around the lower edge of the panel and extends onto the front face, then a piece of cushion is attached on top.  Heat that tape to soften the adhesive then peal it up.  The connector for the LCD is on the back side of the panel in the lower right hand corner, it is not near the tape you are pealing away from the panel. Once the tape is separated very little force is required to shift the panel toward the top of the device as depicted. If you attempt to ‘pull the LCD away from the speakers’ with two hands as shown, it will almost certainly be broken.  Also, all the youtube explanations (at least the ones I could find) of how to remove the LCD make it look like you lift up on the top which would only cause the LCD to break.  So youtube failed this step as well.  It’s not easy, be careful.

    P.S. as these steps are replicated between more than one device –– I’m working on an iPad mini 3 LTE, the tape may be in different places on other devices?

    ciradrak -

    The LCD is extremely fragile, DO NOT allow it to bend or you will break it. The adhesive near the speakers that connect to the LCD are a danger spot and if you pull wrong you could break the LCD. Be careful.

    Timothy McEvoy - Réponse

    The three tapes is best removed with tweezers! Then the LCD is easily flipped over. Extremely odd it’s not explained in this way.

    trnilsson - Réponse

    It is MANDATORY to loosen the 3 tapes as well (step 36), don’t even try to lift it without loosening them first!!!! After you did it you can turn the screen without any resistance! Should be added in this guide!!!!

    Ishino Akatawa - Réponse

  36. Remplacement de l'écran LCD de l'iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi: étape 36, image 1 de 2 Remplacement de l'écran LCD de l'iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi: étape 36, image 2 de 2
    • N'essayez pas d'enlever complètement l'écran LCD. Il est toujours connecté à l'iPad par plusieurs nappes du côté du bouton home. Soulevez du côté de la caméra frontale.

    • Retournez l'écran LCD de l'iPad comme la page d'un livre, en le saisaissant près de la caméra et le tournant vers le côté bouton home de la coque arrière.

    • Soyez soigneux et gardez un œil sur les nappes du LCD lorsque vous déplacez l'écran.

    • Posez l'écran LCD sur la vitre avant pour accéder aux nappes de l'écran.

  37. Remplacement de l'écran LCD de l'iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi: étape 37, image 1 de 3 Remplacement de l'écran LCD de l'iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi: étape 37, image 2 de 3 Remplacement de l'écran LCD de l'iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi: étape 37, image 3 de 3
    • Faites glisser la pointe d'un spudger entre l'écran LCD et les languettes adhésives pour ouvrir l'écran.

    • Poussez doucement entre chacune des deux languettes adhésives. Veillez à ne pas endommager les nappes voisines.

    This was harder than it looks. The adhesive tape covers a lot of area and has stuck to it tiny wires that go to the speaker. I had to use the tweezers to very carefully separate the wire from the adhesive, and to then pull the adhesive off the circuit board area in one spot before it would finally come away.

    Ray Everett - Réponse

    Be careful that it does not pull up all the foam strips, that was my issue.

    Shane - Réponse

  38. Remplacement de l'écran LCD de l'iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi: étape 38, image 1 de 1
    • Retirez les sept vis cruciformes #00 de 1,8 mm de la plaque de protection de l'écran LCD.

    My LCD shield plate had many more screws than this. You have to remove them all.

    David Rowthorn - Réponse

    My plate had 8 on the upper line, 6 + 2 at bottom. 16 total.

    There are strong magnets on the sides and they keep catching the screws as you take them out. Tweezers are helpful to fish them.

    Gina Romo -

    At the assembly stage I found it is easier to use Philips PH000 screw driver bit than PH00. It helped me to get these minuscule screws in place, catch the head holes and drive them into their tight position. While using PH00 the driver would not catch the holes in their head and I was risking scratching the display since the screws refused to settle in the openings.

    mxmbulat - Réponse

  39. Remplacement de l'écran LCD de l'iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi: étape 39, image 1 de 3 Remplacement de l'écran LCD de l'iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi: étape 39, image 2 de 3 Remplacement de l'écran LCD de l'iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi: étape 39, image 3 de 3
    • Utilisez l'extrémité plate d'un spudger pour sortir la plaque de protection de l'écran LCD de l'iPad.

    • Retirez la plaque de protection de l'écran LCD.

    You can also just slide it back to expose the cable bracket.

    Will - Réponse

  40. Remplacement de l'écran LCD de l'iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi, Écran LCD: étape 40, image 1 de 1
    • Retirez les vis cruciformes #00 suivantes du cache de la nappe de l'écran :

    • Une vis de 2,8 mm

    • Trois vis de 1,4 mm

  41. Remplacement de l'écran LCD de l'iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi: étape 41, image 1 de 3 Remplacement de l'écran LCD de l'iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi: étape 41, image 2 de 3 Remplacement de l'écran LCD de l'iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi: étape 41, image 3 de 3
    • Retirez de l'iPad le cache de la nappe de l'écran.

  42. Remplacement de l'écran LCD de l'iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi: étape 42, image 1 de 3 Remplacement de l'écran LCD de l'iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi: étape 42, image 2 de 3 Remplacement de l'écran LCD de l'iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi: étape 42, image 3 de 3
    • Utilisez la pointe d'un spudger pour soulever la nappe du bouton home hors de sa prise sur la carte mère.

    • Repliez la nappe du bouton home en dehors de votre champ de travail.

    maybe disconnect the battery before touch the home button cable

    cli168 - Réponse

    On a iPad mini 3 you MUST remove the home button cable connector, before you have access to the battery connector

    phigsmith - Réponse

    The wider end allows better leverage and no slippage

    Billinski - Réponse

  43. Remplacement de l'écran LCD de l'iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi: étape 43, image 1 de 3 Remplacement de l'écran LCD de l'iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi: étape 43, image 2 de 3 Remplacement de l'écran LCD de l'iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi: étape 43, image 3 de 3
    • Utilisez la pointe d'un spudger pour soulever délicatement le connecteur de la batterie hors de sa prise sur la carte mère.

    • Soyez très prudent de faire uniquement levier sur le connecteur de la batterie et non sur la prise elle-même. Si vous faites levier sur la prise de la carte mère, vous risquez de casser complètement le connecteur.

    The wider end allows better leverage and no slippage

    Billinski - Réponse

  44. Remplacement de l'écran LCD de l'iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi: étape 44, image 1 de 2 Remplacement de l'écran LCD de l'iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi: étape 44, image 2 de 2
    • Utilisez la pointe d'un spudger pour soulever le connecteur LCD hors de sa prise sur la carte mère.

    • Ne prenez pas appui contre le grand IC à côté du connecteur, vous risqueriez de le casser. Faites délicatement levier du côté du connecteur comme illustré.

    The wider end allows better leverage and no slippage

    Billinski - Réponse

  45. Remplacement de l'écran LCD de l'iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi: étape 45, image 1 de 1
    • Soulevez et retirez l'écran LCD de l'iPad Mini 3.

Conclusion

Pour réassembler votre appareil, suivez ces instructions dans l'ordre inverse.

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Sam Goldheart

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Un commentaire

I’ve done many iPad Mini 1 and 2 repairs and have had no problems. However with the touch ID home button on the iPad Mini 3 it makes it a bit trickier. I haven’t been able to successfully transfer a touch ID capable home button to the new digitizer, let alone install a new home button and have it work.

Anyone have any tips?

Bill Shannon - Réponse

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