Introduction
Faites des économies en remplaçant uniquement l'écran LCD au lieu de l'écran complet.
Ce dont vous avez besoin
-
-
Boîtier fermé, placez l'Unibody à l'envers sur une surface plane.
-
Appuyez sur le côté rainuré du loquet de déverrouillage de la trappe d'accès de manière à saisir l'extrémité libre du loquet. Soulevez le loquet de déverrouillage à la verticale.
-
-
-
Tirez sur la languette et retirez la batterie de votre MacBook.
-
Si la languette n'est pas bien positionnée, elle empêchera la batterie de sortir.
Do I need to wait for the battery to charge completely before using the computer (while plugged in)?
No. You do not need to charge it completely before removing it.
-
-
-
Retirez les huit vis suivantes par lesquelles le boîtier inférieur est fixé au châssis :
-
Une vis Phillips 5,4 mm.
-
Trois vis Phillips 14 mm.
-
Quatre vis Phillips 3,5 mm.
Hi, My name is Jess I need help asap I accidentally dropped my macbook Pro and i cant find the silver screw for the top left back side, Does any one know if I can replace it with an eye glass screw?? If you can help at all Please e-mail me at Chambliss_jess@yahoo.com thx please help me my bf is going off... ;(
The fixit PH00 is the wrong screw driver for this entire job. It did not fit in the screws, it was too pointy and caused screws to be rounded off.
-
-
-
En vous servant des deux mains, soulevez le boîtier inférieur et retirez-le du boîtier supérieur.
About midway along each edge is a snap. To release each snap, gently slide the flat edge of a Spudger under the lower case, then lift the lower case away.
-
-
-
Déconnectez la nappe de la caméra en tirant l'extrémité mâle tout droit hors de sa prise, vers l'ouverture du lecteur optique.
-
Dégagez le câble de données de l'écran de la rainure sur le lecteur optique.
I have a problem with previous made unprofessional teardown of this mac, and the port that the camera cable is connected to, on the m-board, is cracked, because somebody pulled it straight up .. can someone please, share an idea about the way of fixing it, or maybe a name of the part i need ?
-
-
-
Dévissez les deux vis cruciformes fixant le support de la nappe de la caméra au boîtier supérieur.
-
Séparez le support de la nappe de la caméra et la nappe de la caméra et ôtez-le de l'ordinateur.
For reassembly, it would improve the instructions to note the exact orientation of the camera cable, as well as the LVDS cable, in these steps (7-10). This avoids confusion as to where those cables go when the display is reattached (working steps 11-13 in reverse).
As viewed from the orientation of the laptop at this point (looking into the motherboard from the underside), these cables are routed ABOVE the mounting plates for the hinges.
Viewed from the front of the machine (as it would be sitting on the desk in front of you during normal use), they are routed BELOW those plates.
-
-
-
Dévissez les deux vis extérieures Torx de 6 mm fixant de chaque côté l'écran au boîtier supérieur (quatre vis au total).
Ccouldn't make it past step 10 as the two T6 screws on the right stripped. I was using the correct tool, correctly seated, but the screws were simply unwilling to turn and the screw head gave out before they turned at all. The ones on the left came out alright, but there seems to be some type of thread glue on them. Recommendations on how to break that seal without stripping the screw heads might be a good idea. Otherwise - be forewarned.
I have the same problem with step 10. Can't remove the screw on the left, it is all damaged.
-
-
-
-
Ouvrez votre MacBook de sorte que l'écran est perpendiculaire au boîtier supérieur.
-
Posez votre MacBook ouvert sur une table comme sur la photo.
-
Pendant que vous maintenez l'écran et le boîtier supérieur d'une main, dévissez la vis Torx de 6 mm restante de la fixation inférieure de l'écran.
Unlock without removing them , the two remaining center 6mm Torx screws securing the display to the upper case.
-
-
-
Dévissez la dernière vis Torx T6 de 6 mm fixant l'écran au boîtier supérieur.
One of the Torx screws holding the Display in place failed to come out. I tried too hard and it shredded the head of the screw so there was no physical leverage to the screw driver, so I left it to avoid any further damage.
So instead I removed ‘not’the torx screw on the computer but the one on the display itself. There are three on the inner part of the screen, two facing the display and the third on the other side. It sled out easily.
It only added a couple of minutes to my time removing it.
But a word of caution, you must remove the long plastic housing that holds the cables for the iSight and display, just be gentle and slide it off trying not to snag the cables, it should come off easy.
-
-
-
Saisissez le boîtier supérieur de votre main droite et faites-le légèrement pivoter vers le haut de l'écran de sorte que la fixation supérieure de l'écran s'éloigne du bord du boîtier supérieur.
-
Faites pivoter et éloignez légèrement l'écran du boîtier supérieur.
-
Soulevez et éloignez l'écran du boîtier supérieur en veillant à ce que aucune fixation ni aucune nappe ne reste accrochée.
If I purchase a MBP 15' for parts that has a good top case, LCD and Glass, could I stop at Step 14, replace the entire top case and reverse from Step 13 to put it back together? Or do I need to proceed with steps 14 to 21, loosening the glue, lifting the glass, replacing the LCD?
-
-
-
Avant de commencer, veillez à nettoyer la vitre avec un chiffon non pelucheux humidifié avec une solution lavante douce ; cela permettra à la ventouse à levier de mieux adhérer et à vous de vérifier plus facilement l'absence de poussière lors du remontage.
-
Réglez le pistolet à air chaud à température basse et commencez à chauffer la bordure extérieure noire, du côté du coin supérieur droit de l'écran.
Another caution is needed - the heat gun is capable of discoloring the LCD panel (giving uneven coloration) if it overheats. This is possible on the low setting. Proceed cautiously, heating in increments until the glass releases.
I was wondering the same, is absolutely necessary to disassemble the screen to change the glass? Can I jump to step 21?
To change just the glass I used a hair dryer it gives off enough heat to do the job. Stand the computer up on its cover with the key board standing up.start at a corner heat the adhesive as you go along. I Put credit cards in as I went along so the adhesive doesn't stick again. take your time . Its easy.
-
-
-
Une fois que la vitre a été suffisamment chauffée, fixez une ventouse à levier à côté du coin supérieur droit de la vitre.
-
Soulevez et éloignez lentement et délicatement le coin de la vitre de l'ensemble écran.
Sufficiently heated is a meaningless phrase here. Is it two minutes? Three? Fifteen? An hour? I have tried doing this for increasing amounts of time while avoiding doing damage to the machine, and nothing is working. Sufficient heating needs definition.
Hi Keith, the key here is that you want to warm the adhesive that's spread thoroughly behind the masked-black area of the glass around the screen to release, but not put enough heat at the rubber gasket that seals the closed top lid to the base. Too much heat, too soon, will deform the rubber. Too much and you'll never get the glass to release. The 2x that I have done this, however, even with sufficient (and significant) heat, I remember the glass taking a surprising amount of leverage to pull clear. A tactic: using your heat gun warm all the sides of the display from the front, in a circulating/racetrack fashion - about 20 rpm. After 30sec, focus on the left and top sides, seesawing from bottom left, to top left, to top right, and back. Do that at the same pace, about 5-10 passes. Then spend about 10 sec waving over the whole top left corner. That should get enough heat to enough places to help the glass separate to start placing picks, and you can continue to heat the margins as you progress.
-
-
-
Soulevez précautionneusement le coin de la vitre de sorte à pouvoir insérer une spatule (spudger) entre elle et l'ensemble écran.
-
Avec l'extrémité plate de la spatule, décollez soigneusement la bande adhésive fixant la vitre à l'écran.
-
Soulevez la vitre de quelques centimètres au-dessus du coin supérieur droit, tout au long du bord supérieur et du bord droit de l'écran.
Be patient and work slowly or else you will crack the glass like me.
I can not get the glass to come up despite two tries and dicsoloring the LCD with too much heat. Why can't I get the glass to budge at all?
It is better , instead of using the suction cup , to use small flat end spudger . The suction cup should be used first to detach the window from the gasket , not furthermore as it may brake the glass.
I didn’t have large suction cups and the small ones didn’t work for me. Instead, I used an opening tool to pry up the glass slightly and got a guitar pick under it. Then I slowly worked the pick around the top three sides of the glass, heating sections of glue as I went.
I’ve managed to do it using hair dryer on max. First corner was though and took a lot of time to lift it. I decided to heat not only a corner but whole length and then it came off. I’ve put so much heat that was afraid I’ve damaged LCD, but it works fine. As BillyRachel1 said: patience is the way. In order to assemble it back I used old glue heated again. It’s easy but takes time.
Note: Don’t do this at home if you have cats otherwise you going to spend next hour or so trying to remove their fur from between glass and LCD. It’s because they all levitate after using hot air and just wait to stick to the screen again.
To be honest hardest thing was replacing clutch cover, took me so much time and I eventually cracked it.
-
-
-
Avec un pistolet à air chaud, faites ramollir la colle sous la bordure noire le long du côté droit de la vitre avant.
-
Fixez une ventouse à levier du côté droit de la vitre avant.
-
Soulevez la vitre pendant que vous la séparez du reste de l'ensemble écran avec l'extrémité plate d'une spatule.
-
Progressez le long du bord droit de la vitre avant jusqu'à ce qu'il soit séparé de l'écran.
I used old credit cards
-
-
-
Avec votre pistolet à air chaud, ramollissez la colle sous la bordure noire le long du bord supérieur de la vitre.
-
Fixez une ventouse à levier sur le bord supérieur de la vitre avant et tirez-la pour séparer la vitre de l'écran.
-
Progressez le long du bord supérieur de la vitre, en enlevant précautionneusement la colle avec l'extrémité plate d'une spatule si nécessaire.
-
-
-
Avec le pistolet à air chaud, ramollissez la colle sous la bordure noire du côté du coin supérieur gauche de la vitre.
-
Fixez une ventouse à levier dans le coin supérieur gauche de la vitre avant.
-
Tirez sur la ventouse pendant que vous séparez précautionneusement la vitre de l'ensemble écran avec l'extrémité plate d'une spatule.
-
-
-
Avec le pistolet à air chaud, ramollissez la colle sous la bordure noire du côté du coin supérieur gauche de la vitre.
-
Fixez une ventouse à levier dans le coin supérieur gauche de la vitre avant.
-
Tirez sur la ventouse pendant que vous séparez précautionneusement la vitre de l'ensemble écran avec l'extrémité plate d'une spatule.
-
Après avoir séparé le coin supérieur gauche de l'écran, il peut être utile d'insérer un médiator de guitare ou un autre objet fin en plastique pour empêcher la vitre de se recoller sur l'ensemble écran.
-
-
-
Maintenant que les bords supérieur, gauche et droit de la vitre sont séparés de l'écran, soulevez doucement le bord supérieur de la vitre et faites-le délicatement pivoter pour l'éloigner de l'écran.
If you will be reusing the glass, with new adhesive, then you will want to remove the old adhesive. This is a bit of a pain, as alcohol doesn't work, and you need to be careful to avoid damaging the black screen border, which is black paint on the back (adhesive) side of the glass.
To remove the adhesive, note that it is actually a thin film with rubber cement on both sides. First, use a razor to carefully pull up one corner of the film and gently peel it off of the glass. If you are gentle and slow, the underlying adhesive may also come off; if not, then rubbing with your finger or a hard rubber eraser will do the trick.
If this is a rubber cement based glue, then would rubber solvent / thinner like N-Heptane help the removal process without damaging the black paint ?
Don’t remove glue. Just reuse it by heating and sticking it again.
-
-
-
Insérez la pointe d'un outil en plastique entre la vitre de l'écran et la fixation de la caméra et progressez autour de la fixation pour la séparer de la vitre.
-
-
-
Pour reconnecter la nappe de la caméra, enlevez d'abord le morceau de mousse autocollante sur la prise ZIF de la nappe avec la pointe d'une spatule.
-
Toujours avec la pointe de la spatule, ouvrez le clapet de retenue ZIF de la prise de la nappe de la caméra.
-
Insérez la nappe de la caméra dans sa prise sur la carte caméra et refermez le clapet de retenue ZIF avec la pointe de la spatule pour maintenir la nappe en place.
-
-
-
Faites glisser le cache charnière vers la droite de l'écran.
-
-
-
En commençant tout à droite, faites jouer le cache charnière tout le long de son axe pendant que vous l'ôtez de la charnière.
-
En progressant de droite à gauche, soulevez et dégagez soigneusement le cache charnière du bord inférieur de l'ensemble écran.
-
Ôtez le cache charnière du cache inférieur et mettez-le de côté.
-
-
-
Dévissez les six vis cruciformes de 2,9 mm fixant le panneau LCD au cache avant.
Hey guys, I need to get the part where the screws are on, whats its name or where could I find it? That part on my Computer broke.... Do you guys think its possible to guet it somewhere?
-
-
-
Avec la pointe d'une spatule (spudger), ouvrez le fin clapet de retenue en acier fixant le câble de données de l'écran à sa prise sur l'écran LCD.
-
Tirez le câble de données de l'écran tout droit hors de sa prise sur l'écran.
-
Ôtez l'écran LCD de l'ensemble écran et mettez-le de côté.
Danke für das Bereitstellen der Anleitung dadurch konnte ich mein MacBook nach 12 Jahren Einsatz, für die nächsten Jahre fit machen.
Thanks you for providing this Manuel. It helped me, after 12 year of use to make my MacBook fit for the coming years.
-
Pour remonter votre ordinateur, suivez ces instructions en sens inverse.
Pour remonter votre ordinateur, suivez ces instructions en sens inverse.
Annulation : je n'ai pas terminé ce tutoriel.
53 autres ont terminé cette réparation.
Merci à ces traducteurs :
100%
Ces traducteurs nous aident réparer le monde ! Vous voulez contribuer ?
Commencez à traduire ›
6 commentaires
Amazing and wonderful. With a hairdryer, a loving wife who knows how to clean glass much much better than I do, the tools listed here and some patience, I now have a wonderfully ugraded 2008 unibody MBP with a high resolution display (wasn't offered until 2009). My display issues are gone as indeed my vertical banding was caused by a broken display.
Does one have to buy the LVDS display cable or can the one that is in the macbook already, be used?
I'm by no means an expert, or even vaguely knowledgable :), but i would assume you can just use the old cable, if it's just the actual LCD itself that is damaged and the cable seems fine.
Mal -
Great guide, i thought it was going to be tricky, but following this made it easy! I was actually replacing the display rear panel and the glass - my LCD was fine - so i had to improvise slightly taking hinges etc from damaged panel, but this guide made everything seem pretty straightforward, thanks guys!
THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU for saving me from a $600 Apple Store repair bill! The instructions were excellent and I felt very comfortable working my way through the repair.
I lucked out getting the glass off. I heated the upper right corner until it was warm to the touch, attached the suction cup and... pop. The glass came off instantly in one piece. Unfortunately, I broke it trying to get the camera bracket off, but it looked like shite after being knocked around for seven years and I was planning on replacing it anyway. I also replaced the LVDS cable along with the LCD and bezel. The display looks as good as the day I took it home from the Apple Store back in 2008.
I'm giddy that I have my laptop back. Tablets are all the rage nowadays, but they really do have their limitations. You need a proper keyboard to do any serious work.
Thanks tons for putting out these repair guides and the great tools.
Thanks a lot : it is not so difficult provided you follow gently step by step the Ifixit guide .
I used a heat gun which has 15 levels of heat and only needed the no 4 or 5 maximum .
Had to glue again the frame of the macbook pro ( hinges are attached to it and it was broken ( bended) : I used for that rectavit 70 pro ( black)
https://www.klium.be/rectavit-g70-pro-he... which is better than the original glue to fix the frame inside the top case , it takes 24 hours before getting hard enough to use the hinges again .
MAcbook Pro late 2008 needs a new flash drive to be fully operational again !
The A1286 has no Access Door.!!
I actually can see no sign of the battery!...
aguib - Réponse
I assume you have the newer model, with the built-in battery. It's still removable with tools, but these are the wrong instructions for that model.
lgc90 - Réponse
when will there be a guide for the other unibody macbook pro. that does not have an access door?
irishking - Réponse
Is there a manual to show, how disasembly the display, i mean, after step 5, to check the display between lcd and aluminiun back case?
Max
Max - Réponse
On other guides you state the height of the HD that can be supported, e.g. Remplacement du disque dur du MacBook Pro 15" Core 2 Duo modèle A1211 , I have read ( but have not confirmed ) that the uni-body MacBook Pro can be fitted with the 750GB and 1TB 12mm drive from Western Digital.
Can you confirm this?
Many thanks in advance.
ahothabeth - Réponse
My display and aluminum casing has separated.
I don't know if it just snaps back together or does it need to be glued.
I dropped mine on the carpeted stairs and the display still works.
I'm hoping I can just snap it back together and that no plastic pieces or teeth of the snapping
portion have been broken........
SHerwood Ball - Réponse
When you say "left fan" is this "left when looking at the logic board after turning the computer over and looking it up opening it up" or "left when sitting at the computer keyboard and typing on it"?
thvv - Réponse
We always use left and right in reference to the computer when you're using it.
Andrew Optimus Goldheart -
Directions were great and the worn dc in board was replaced. The hardest part of the procedure is disconnecting the data display cable. A better description of step 21 is to slide the connector parallel to the circuit board towards the outside corner. Reconnecting correctly took several tries.
I used the tip of the spudger to nudge the corners a little at a time to seat the connector.
The ribbon connector for the keyboard has to be inserted all the way before seating the retaining cap. It took me three tries . First try power button did not work second try numbers keys did not work.
Thanks for the directions ...could not have done it with out them!!!
landryd - Réponse
Hola. Poseo un MacBook Pro Late 2008 y debo cambiarle las cornetas. Me sirve unas cornetas de un MBP Late 2011?
jegonzalez80 - Réponse
Please read the instructions about removing the bluetooth cable - you CAN work around it, and NOT take off the plug.
kenneth krabat - Réponse