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Introduction

Suivez ce tutoriel pour remplacer le panneau frontal cassé d'un iPad Air 2 Wi-Fi. Le panneau frontal ou écran complet se compose de la vitre tactile de verre en haut et de l'écran LCD fusionné en-dessous. Dans l'iPad Air 2, ces deux parties ne sont pas séparables et doivent être remplacées d'une seule pièce.

Notez que le scanner d'empreintes digitales dans le bouton home est couplé à la carte mère de l'iPad. Afin de maintenir la fonctionnalité Touch ID, vous devez transférer votre bouton home d'origine sur le nouvel écran.

Ce processus peut résoudre plusieurs problèmes comme une vitre tactile fissurée, un écran tactile ne réagissant plus ou un écran LCD cassé.

Faites très attention lorsque vous isolez la batterie avec un bloqueur de batterie. Les contacts de la batterie s'abîment facilement, ce qui entraîne des dommages irréversibles à la carte mère.

  1. Remplacement de l'écran complet de l'iPad Air 2 Wi-Fi, Chauffer un iOpener: étape 1, image 1 de 2 Remplacement de l'écran complet de l'iPad Air 2 Wi-Fi, Chauffer un iOpener: étape 1, image 2 de 2
    • Nous recommandons de nettoyer le micro-ondes avant de commencer. D'éventuels restes au fond risquent d'adhérer à votre iOpener.

    • Placez l'iOpener au centre du micro-ondes.

    • Pour les micro-ondes à plateau tournant : assurez-vous que le plateau tourne bien. Si votre iOpener se coince, il risque de surchauffer et de brûler.

    I didn't find this to be as hard as I had built it up in my mind to be; HOWEVER, saying that I need to say years ago I was the local Nokia service center in my town. But many years ago right after they got rid of analog times. Yeah. A classic installer/repairer mistake when starting something they haven't fixed or installed before is picking up the instructions, flipping through them; maybe even reading a section that is new-then tossing the instructions over the shoulder. "I got this." This usually comes right before something major gets broke. And I can tell you when you try to do it yourself and then mess it up horribly then take it to the repair shop. Well we called that "I can do it myself" syndrome and charged extra to put back together what they brought in in the box. Now knowing all this - I can't stress this enough because I am stupid, stupid, stupid. COVER YOUR SCREEN IN CLEAR BOXING TAPE AND READ ALL THE INSTRUCTION BELOW THROUGH TO THE END BEFORE EVEN ATTEMPTING THIS FIX. Take my advise.

    windizy - Réponse

    I didn't have an iOpener, so I used a wheat type heat bag. If you do this though, make sure you put a layer of plastic between your Mac and the bag, or you'll get condensation in places you don't want it.

    Martin Gray - Réponse

    I started out using the iOpener but switched to my wife's hairdryer. A heat gun or hair dryer proved to be much more convenient and is a time saviour. You can heat more and the glue becomes more fluid make the next steps with the opening picks much easier

    Jan Van Puymbroeck - Réponse

    I know this is obvious, but backup your iPad with iTunes before you start. I'd also turn off your passcode if you have one.

    Laurie Higgins - Réponse

    Ther first time you heat up the iOpener for this repair when its room temperature I had to heat it up for more than 30 seconds. I remember I had to heat it up for around 45 seconds. However, after that when you need to reheat it again during the repair 30 seconds will be enough.

    Yousef Ghalib - Réponse

    I used the wheat bag in a sensor microwave heating up to 65-70 deg C (155 def F).

    ian cheong - Réponse

    Get yourself a cherry pit bean bag the size of your iPad. Heat it, put the iPad on it for 3 to 5 minutes or so, reheat the cherry pit bean bag, again put your iPad on it. Then heat the iOpener and start working. The cherry pit bean bag will have to be reheated several times, but it will soften the adhesive so you have less problems with the iOpener

    Tim Feyaerts - Réponse

    The heating can be done very effectively (and quickly) with 3d printer heated bed. Make sure the bed is clean. Set the temperature to 60c, (130f ) and put the ipad face down for +/- 10 minutes. Repeat as needed throughout the “gentle prying” stages.

    polleyphony - Réponse

    The iOpener did not work at all for me.

    I had to use a heat gun and bring the edges of the case up to ~200 degrees (used an infrared thermometer to measure) before the glue would weaken. This obviously superheated the metal frame, so I also had to wear gloves to handle the phone while prying the back off with the included picks.

    Mike Jeanette - Réponse

    Repair instructions worked like a charm. Had to be patient with the iOpener and getting the screen off. I tried repeatedly without success until shifting the suction cup a bit to the left side where perhaps the glue had loosened up a bit more.

    Kyle - Réponse

    The iOpener, in my opinion, is of no help. Many warnings to say “don’t warm it too much”, but the glue doesn’t melt if not warm enough. As a result, a complete waste of time and energy. In addition, too much liquid in it, so it doesn’t lay on the device on a sufficient surface. I took a hairdryer and it worked much much better.

    laurentvidu - Réponse

    I used an immersion bath to heat this to 180F and applied it to the device until the outside temperature of the opener read 150F with an IR thermometer. Removing the screen took very little force with this method.

    breadandbits - Réponse

    My experience. I was replacing the screen which had been cracked and a little shattered in some places. The iopener is pretty much useless, so was the suction cup. The suction cup would probably be more useful if I was doing something besides the screen. Also you probably want the clean the screen before using it so it can get good suction. I used a hair dryer on high for a couple of minutes at a time (someone on this tread suggested that). I used my exacto knife and a razor blade to get into the adhesive. First the exacto to get the initial cut, then the razor blade to go a little deeper. Could have probably just used the razor blade, but the exacto has a little more finesse. I got the razor blade in and a little under the glass then I used the picks to wedge in. I didn’t want to risk anything using the razor blade too much. Used tape to keep the shattered glass together.

    trebor65 - Réponse

    My experience pt2

    Fortunately the shattering was mostly on the edges and most of it had adhesive on the back so it stuck together. Just take your time and work your way around following the guide to get the screen off. Have some goof off or goo be gone to clean the frame when putting the new glass on or putting the existing one back. (someone suggested that also, very good idea). Be careful of the LCD (you should know that). The cable on my LCD was pretty tight, so I propped it up while taking the cable cover off and when I put it back on I did the same thing. I just put a bottle on the battery and leaned the back of the LCD on that while attaching the cables and putting the screws back on the cover. Also be careful with the home button and the bracket on the back of it. I had enough old adhesive on left on the bracket that it stuck back to the new glass fine. So far only 12 hours in, so we will see how that holds up when the kids get at it.

    trebor65 - Réponse

    Another alternative if you do not have the iopener is to use a bed time hotwater bottle. Do not over fill it though. Just put enough hot water in to support the phone while you work around the adhesive.

    I use both the hot water bottle and iopener together on Samsung's. It makes life easier

    gazza667 - Réponse

    I followed the directions and heated my iOpener for 30 seconds in a 1000 watt microwave, and it came out at 160 degrees F, as verified by a infrared thermometer. This allowed me to separate the last bit of the back of my Samsung S8, which was already coming off due to a swollen battery (hence the reason for the repair).

    Dennis - Réponse

    Hallo,habe den Akku erfolgreich getauscht.Doch seitdem gibt es bei Telefonaten eine Rückkopplung für den anrufenden.Bei mir ist alles normal.Woran liegt das?Mfg

    Manu R - Réponse

    If you follow these instructions, you will crack your screen like I did. Heating the iOpener for 30 seconds, using it to melt glue, then waiting 10 minutes to reheat is useless. The iOpener can be used to maybe warm the glue on whatever side you aren’t working on. You need a hairdryer and/or a heat gun to melt the glue and separate the glass from the iPad.

    Anyone want to buy an old iPad with broken glass and a dead battery?

    mpulliam - Réponse

    Not everybody has a microwave. You should provide a target temperature for the iOpener and instructions for a conventional oven, or pot of warm water, or whatever. Although I will probably use a heat gun …

    Esmond Pitt - Réponse

    Three times heating opener and no luck. Tried pressing down gently on opener with a towel, and the opener broke. Wondering if I now replace table mats, fancy table cloth, etc. or will this stuff wash out.

    Not impressed so far. Maybe the hair dryer next.

    doug - Réponse

    I support the comments about the iOpener. Everyone has a hair drier, FHS, so get a cheap IR thermometer (£18) and blow heat until the area is 60+ deg C. Still takes w while, and getting the screen off is v scary, but just add more heat if you feel resistance.

    The rest of the kit is good, esp the magnetic screwdrivers.

    Richard O'Brien - Réponse

    No, everyone does not have a hairdryer. Some of us don’t even have hair. Thank goodness I already had an IR thermometer, though.

    nin10doh -

    #### WARNUNG WENN MINIMALSTER SPRUNG IM DISPLAY IST FUNKTIONERT DAS NICHT!!! ######

    Hatte einen winzigen, minimalen Sprung im Display. Ich dachte es könnte gehen, weil der Sprung “abgeschlossen” war. Er hat in einer Ecke ein winzige Glasteil rausgeschnitten. NEIN! Geht nicht. Habe alles mit viel Geduld dem iOpener und einem Föhn erhitzt. Es ist trotzdem sofort über das komplette Display zersprungen…

    T z - Réponse

    I’ve started with iOpener but changed very quickly to a heatgun. That was more efficient.

    Mizzoo, s.r.o. - Réponse

    I could not get the iOpener hot enough to melt the glue on my ipad 6. I heated for 45 seconds once and it was boiling and it still never worked. Thank goodness contributors mentioned using a hair dryer. Using an 1700w hair dryer on high did the trick to get the screen off. Still took some time and the case got pretty hot but be patient. It took twice as long and a lot more patience to get the battery out.

    Randal Haufler - Réponse

    I have an Ipad with touch screen issue, if i replace this part it should be Ok?

    janderson martin - Réponse

    WARNING - DO NOT MICROWAVE ON A METAL MICROWAVE RACK

    The metal microwave rack can heat up and melt through the iOpener cover letting the contents leak out.

    Not a big issue for me as I have a heat gun and used that instead.

    Run Up A Tree - Réponse

    I opened my iPad with the iOpener. Be patient! It may take quite a bit longer to it the iOpener in the microwave than it says in the guide. My microwave can only do 800W and I had to put the iOpener in several times (maybe a total of 90-120 seconds). I recommend that you have the transparent side up an watch the bag carefully. As long a the bag doesn't bloat up and the liquid doesn't start bubbling you should be fine. But I recommend to take the iO out from time to time to check it. (More comments in Step 6.)

    marcelflueeler - Réponse

  2. Remplacement de l'écran complet de l'iPad Air 2 Wi-Fi: étape 2, image 1 de 1
    • Chauffez l'iOpener pendant trente secondes.

    • Comme l'iOpener refroidit au cours de la réparation, rechauffez-le à nouveau au micro-ondes, mais ne dépassez pas les trente secondes à chaque fois.

    • Faites attention de ne pas surchauffer l'iOpener pendant la réparation. En cas de surchauffe, l'iOpener risque d'exploser.

    • Ne touchez jamais l'iOpener s'il vous paraît gonflé.

    • Si le milieu de l'iOpener est encore trop chaud au toucher, continuez à l'utiliser jusqu'à ce qu'il soit assez froid pour le chauffer à nouveau. Un iOpener correctement chauffé devrait rester chaud pendant environ 10 minutes.

    I had to heat mine up for more than 30 seconds. After 30 seconds on high it was only warm. It had to keep trying different times and checking it until it got hot. I think the initial time that I put it in for was over a minute.

    whale13 - Réponse

    DO NOT USE IN NON ROTATING MICROWAVE! It will pop a hole. I had it in for 45 seconds the first time. It wasn't very hot inside and I saw it started to leak on the paper towel I put under it. Just a fair bit of advice. I think I will just stick with the heat gun. Loud but useful.

    Alex Jackson - Réponse

    I heated mine up for 30 seconds, tested, then again for 30 seconds. It felt adequately hot. Leaving it on the left side, per the instruction, for a minute did not loosen the adhesive. I ended up pulling the suction cup hard enough to shadder the old screen. Moral of the story, I don't think it gets hot enough safely to have an affect.

    Travis Dixon - Réponse

    There is a clear problem here with the heating part using the iopener things....no details are given. Whoever is testing them needs to make it clear - What temperature does it need to be? And for which phone models, because they differ in what's needed. It's only £10-15 for a laser guided temp sensor unit, and the designers/repairers should have one of those already for doing these kinds of repairs. Explaining half a repair, is worse than not explaining at all :-(

    assortedrubbish - Réponse

    All phones/devices differ it’s unrealistic and unsafe to put a exact time/temperature needed to soften the adhesive. It’s really quite simple you warm the device evenly and in a controlled manner just enough to enable pry tools and picks to begin separating. Best tool in my opinion but again this is because I have experience is a hot plate and heat gun both of which are used at nearly the lowest settings and I can handle flat palming the plate for almost 10 seconds I leave the device to conduct heat until approx it’s about 110 at most 120 ish this will be plenty to soften all the adhesive if any problem areas I use heat gun while prying. Again you need go slowly and learn with a throw away phone

    Greg Latta -

    I used a hot water bottle, works well as it covers the whole screen and stays hot for longer.

    dave - Réponse

    If I may suggest include your microwave wattage so people can get an idea on time for there own

    Patrick Storey - Réponse

    I ended up using a hair dryer. That iOpener thing took forever.

    mark fitzgerald - Réponse

    30 seconds sure isn’t cutting it… 45 didn’t get the screen of my iPad air 2 to budge either… even after resting on the ipad for 4 minutes.

    60 seconds in the microwave, the iOpener burst.

    I’ll get a new one and try once more with heating it 45 seconds and repeat that for 30 minutes like others have said here. If that doesn’t work it’ll have to be the heat gun.

    K

    Karl Marble - Réponse

    I can’t recommend the microwave. If the the iOpener becomes too hot, it bursts. Better put the opener in cooking water. Dry it and use it. Instead of an iOpener you can use hot/cool packs as well.

    Bernhard Keim - Réponse

    Great idea with using the heat packs. I will try that next time. Thank you

    Collins -

    Trust the directions! I forgot and left it in the Microwave too long and after 1 minute I had Mt Vesuvius - the iOpener burst and spewed the goodies out. The problem is, the Digitizer can be damaged by a hot air gun, so I had to tough out and remove the glue the hard way. I made it … with lots of patience! Tough lesson.

    Larry Bennett - Réponse

    I also used a hairdryer. I used it on the low setting and I cut a piece of carboard to protect the rest of the screen. The iFixit tool and method is vert tedious and very time consuming in comparison. With the hairdryer method you can literally have the display apart in a few minutes. Using your other hand nearby the area you are heating it should be very hot but not enough to burn your hand. You only have to heat metal part of case near glass edge. If you have a cellular model then you need to be very careful because the black antenna area is plastic. So less heat and work your way up in adding heat just enough to separate around the area but not so much you melt the plastic!

    Fixrights - Réponse

    iOpener was the worst part of the kit. Followed directions for :30 in microwave and took 4 trips to the microwave to loosen adhesive on left side of home button. I thought I was figuring it out and it was working well… even set a timer to wait 10 minutes between heating it up. Was on the right side and was on my 12th heat up when it exploded in the microwave. My only tip is that if you set it clear side up, as soon as you see any bubbles or boiling in the liquid, STOP! If you put a pot holder over the iOpener and press slightly to make good surface contact, that seemed to help. I finished heating with a “Corn Sack” that held heat better than the provided iOpener.

    digital_only - Réponse

    Mon iopener n'a pas tenu une réparation. Je ne vous conseille pas ce produit

    Berard Romain - Réponse

    Bonjour,

    Nous sommes désolés que votre réparation ne se soit pas déroulée comme prévu. Il se peut que le produit était défectueux. Veuillez contacter notre service client support@ifixit.com (boutique américaine) ou eustore@ifixit.com (boutique européenne) en décrivant ce qui s’est passé.

    Claire Miesch -

    Readers looking for temperature advice might check the comments of the previous instruction, as there are more there. I used an immersion bath to heat this to 180F and applied it to the device until the outside temperature of the opener read 150F with an IR thermometer. Removing the screen took very little force with this method.

    breadandbits - Réponse

    Thank you for posting some actual temperatures. I have a heat gun with a very fine self-temperature regulation setting capability.

    I will set it for 150-180 F, and use that to soften the adhesive.

    G Trieste -

    I followed the directions and heated my iOpener for 30 seconds in a 1000 watt microwave, and it came out at 160 degrees F, as verified by a infrared thermometer. A second heating about 15 minutes later in the micro and it came out at 190 degrees F. Plenty hot enough to soften the adhesive for removing the back on my S8. Based on the comments above I think people just need to use more patience.

    Dennis - Réponse

    I used various time settings. It got very hot. It would soften the glue but not a whole lot. If my screen had been intact and I was replacing something that was not a digitizer, it may have worked. A broken screen makes the process significantly more difficult. I ended up breaking the home button cable. Good bye TouchID…

    cvela90 - Réponse

    After reading previous comments I didn't even use the i-opener. Used the heatgun ( hairdryer ) which works great for me. Maybe I was lucky as this is my first attempt at replacing a cellphone battery. Motoz 3

    Collins - Réponse

    It appeared 30 seconds were not enough, so I heated it more, by 5 seconds at a time until I got the right temperature about 70 degrees Celsius (measured with infrared pistol) to get the screen heated up to 60 C, the best for softening the glue. But the heat was quickly dissipating by the big aluminum back cover, so the best I got in 2 minutes of applying iOpener was around 45 C, which made the procedure difficult and having risk of breaking the screen. So I eventually abandoned iOpener and user a hot air gun with precise temperature setup. I set it to 90 C, which allowed me to open my iPad quickly and safely.

    Sergey Kofanov - Réponse

    I, too, ended up using a hot air gun. I’ve done earlier versions of iPad before but the adhesive used on this IPad 5 A1822 was particularly difficult to remove.

    Also, while the suction cup worked great when the glass is in tact, any cracks in the glass make the suction cup useless.

    manningrl - Réponse

  3. Remplacement de l'écran complet de l'iPad Air 2 Wi-Fi: étape 3, image 1 de 1
    • Sortez l'iOpener du micro-ondes en le tenant par l'une des deux extrémités plates, car le centre de l'outil risque d'être brûlant.

    • L'iOpener sera très chaud, alors soyez prudent en le manipulant. Utilisez une manique si nécessaire.

    I did this repair. I used a hair dryer, I think it works better: gets very hot fast.

    Cobus de Beer - Réponse

    I did too, you get far more control and no expense on fancy equipment.

    Billinski -

    Readers looking for temperature advice might check the comments of the previous instruction, as there are more there. I used an immersion bath to heat this to 180F and applied it to the device until the outside temperature of the opener read 150F with an IR thermometer. Removing the screen took very little force with this method. I don’t know how much microwaves vary in heating consistency with these pads, but knowing how inconsistent the temperature of a bowl of plain rice gets in my microwave, I wasn’t interested in even trying to use it for this.

    breadandbits - Réponse

    I used an electric griddle set to the lowest setting. It seemed to work very well.

    John - Réponse

    I vote for the hair dryer. The other methods work too but if you aren’t having any luck, switch to the hair dryer. While holding the iPad in my hand, I found that I am aiming the dryer at my finger at the same time and it gauges how hot it is. I stop when my finger can’t take it - maybe five seconds up close. Repeat as needed like I did.

    Robin - Réponse

    This thing melts when placed up side down in the microwave…

    Mark - Réponse

  4. Remplacement de l'écran complet de l'iPad Air 2 Wi-Fi, Méthode alternative pour chauffer un iOpener: étape 4, image 1 de 2 Remplacement de l'écran complet de l'iPad Air 2 Wi-Fi, Méthode alternative pour chauffer un iOpener: étape 4, image 2 de 2
    • Si vous n'avez pas de micro-ondes, suivez cette étape pour chauffer votre iOpener dans de l'eau bouillante.

    • Remplissez une casserole ou une poêle avec suffisamment d'eau pour immerger complètement un iOpener.

    • Faites chauffer l'eau jusqu'à ébullition. Puis éteignez le feu.

    • Placez un iOpener dans l'eau chaude pendant 2 à 3 minutes. Assurez-vous que l'iOpener est complètement immergé dans l'eau.

    • Utilisez des pinces pour extraire l'iOpener chauffé de l'eau chaude.

    • Séchez soigneusement l'iOpener avec une serviette.

    • L'iOpener sera très chaud, veillez. donc à ne le tenir que par les languettes aux extrémités.

    • Votre iOpener est prêt à être utilisé ! Si vous devez réchauffer l'iOpener, portez l'eau à ébullition, éteignez le feu et placez l'iOpener dans l'eau pendant 2 à 3 minutes.

    What do I do if I don’t have a iopener?

    alexdelarge103@gmail.com - Réponse

    2 or 3 cups Rice in a sock, heat for about 2 minutes. But, I recommend the iopener.

    Robert Garcia - Réponse

    When boiling in water you can put the iopener in a ziplock to keep it dry.

    Robert Garcia - Réponse

  5. Remplacement de l'écran complet de l'iPad Air 2 Wi-Fi, Procédure d'ouverture de l'iPad Air 2 Wi-Fi: étape 5, image 1 de 3 Remplacement de l'écran complet de l'iPad Air 2 Wi-Fi, Procédure d'ouverture de l'iPad Air 2 Wi-Fi: étape 5, image 2 de 3 Remplacement de l'écran complet de l'iPad Air 2 Wi-Fi, Procédure d'ouverture de l'iPad Air 2 Wi-Fi: étape 5, image 3 de 3
    • Si la vitre est fissurée, prévenez un éventuel bris de verre pouvant provoquer des blessures, en recouvrant la vitre de l'iPad de bandes adhésives.

    • Placez des bandes adhésives transparentes se chevauchant sur l'écran de l'iPad jusqu'à ce que tout la face soit couverte.

    • Cela permettra de ne pas faire tomber les éclats de verre contenus et de garder une certaine stabilité lorsque vous ferez levier et enlèverez l'écran.

    • Faites de votre mieux pour suivre le reste du tutoriel tel que décrit. Cependant, une fois que le verre est cassé, il continuera sûrement à craqueler et vous devrez peut-être utiliser un outil en métal pour dégager les éclats de verre.

    • Portez des lunettes de sécurité pour protéger vos yeux et faites attention de ne pas endommager l'écran LCD.

    Why does it says in red letter to be sure not to damage the LCD screen? I thought the whole point of this guide is to replace a broken screen and the new screen comes with a new LCD since apparently they cannot be separated

    Stranger Danger - Réponse

    Because some people are opening the ipad to replace the battery! Like me~

    stephenwithph - Réponse

    The picture is a picture of an ipad 4 lol

    iCare Electronic Repair - Réponse

    The opening procedure is the same on many iPad models, so some photos are reused for all models.

    Daniele Carminati -

  6. Remplacement de l'écran complet de l'iPad Air 2 Wi-Fi: étape 6, image 1 de 1
    • Les étapes suivantes impliquent l'utilisation d'un iOpener pour ramollir l'adhésif qui maintient le panneau frontal en place. Lorsque vous utilisez l'iOpener, assurez-vous de ne pas le laisser chauffer au micro-ondes pendant plus de 30 secondes.

    • En le saisissant par les languettes de chaque côté, placez un iOpener chaud sur le bord supérieur de l'iPad.

    • Laissez l'iOpener sur l'iPad pendant deux minutes pour ramollir l'adhésif fixant le panneau frontal au reste de l'iPad.

    Yeah, this part took longer than written. Over 30 minutes and had to reheat the iOpenner since it got cool enough to only feel warm.

    Christopher Lowder - Réponse

    So true, the adhesive is really strong.

    Benjamin Black -

    I would recommend using a hair dryer on high instead. Heat a certain area 60 seconds at a time and keep the hair dyer moving at a slow but constant speed.

    Alexander Chrisman - Réponse

    Hi!

    Is the quality of the iOpener so different, that for some people this guide works. but for most people including me, this 30 sec do not hotten the iOpener enough..

    Couldn't anybody do a new guideline with proper info, how many sec on which watt, etc. Pretty please!

    BUT, with that said, I would like thank You people on ifixit.com, for make all this tools. I f. love it! But plz make a new guide for at least iPad Air 2, screen replacement!

    Big love from Sweden and me Magni =) <3

    Magnifika Mole - Réponse

    Hello Magni!

    Microwave power can be vary, so you may need to microwave your iOpener longer in order to get it hot enough. The iOpener should be hot to the touch, about 80-100°C.

    Arthur Shi -

    Why do these instructions say to heat the top of the iPad for 2 minutes, but then prior open the bottom? The instruction below seem to indicate heating the side that you are about to pry open.

    mpulliam - Réponse

    I saw in some “How To”videos, the repair shop had expensive heating pads to assist in screen removal. If I ever find myself making a similar repair to an iPad of iPhone, I’m going to try using a heating pad I have for my back. Set it to high and let the iPad/iPhone set on it screen down for 15 minutes or so. Should do the trick.

    Charles Meitin - Réponse

    결국 히팅건을 사용했습니다. Bosch GHG 500-2 패드 알루미늄이 뜨거워질 때까지 가볍게 가열하십시오. 손가락으로 만지면 견딜 수 없을 정도로 뜨거워질 때까지 천천히 가열했습니다. iopener는 시간이 많이 걸리고 성공하지 못했습니다.

    jinwoo KIM - Réponse

    I used a heat gun from about 3 feet away with my hand right next to the iPad to gauge how hot it was. In the end you need the edge of the screen almost but not too hot to touch

    Rich Pepp - Réponse

    Did it with the IOppener! Just be patient. It seems the les harmfull way of doing it. I just had to reheat it few times.

    Lucarelli Dorian - Réponse

    Wish I'd have known alk these tools were here before I tried replacing the battery on my iPad Air 2 only to mess up the digitizer or the LCD screen one. Since they come together in replacement guess doesn't really matter which one is messed up. Or does it? Hmmm.

    Darlene - Réponse

  7. Remplacement de l'écran complet de l'iPad Air 2 Wi-Fi: étape 7, image 1 de 3 Remplacement de l'écran complet de l'iPad Air 2 Wi-Fi: étape 7, image 2 de 3 Remplacement de l'écran complet de l'iPad Air 2 Wi-Fi: étape 7, image 3 de 3
    • Alors que l'iPad semble uniforme de l'extérieur, il y a des composants délicats sous certaines parties de la vitre tactile. Pour éviter de les endommager, chauffez et soulevez uniquement les zones mentionnées à chaque étape.

    • Au fur et à mesure que vous suivez les instructions, prenez soin d'éviter de faire levier dans les zones suivantes :

    • Bouton home

    • Caméra frontale

    • Caméra arrière

    you should be careful with the screen connector on the bottom right when opening

    Elyazee Eble Altenawe - Réponse

    I accidentally cut the volume cable as when I tried to gently pry that corner area with the iFixit triangular plastic openers, one needed to be pushed quite hard to open the screen and slipped, the cable was stuck to both the screen digitiser glue and the case, so when I pried the screen off, the cable tore. iPad still works but annoying the glue is so strong.

    Mork Olimorph - Réponse

    Well, there is actually only 2mm at the bottom just around the home button. Be careful! I broke mine since iFixit didn’t point that out!

    Konzentrat - Réponse

  8. Remplacement de l'écran complet de l'iPad Air 2 Wi-Fi: étape 8, image 1 de 2 Remplacement de l'écran complet de l'iPad Air 2 Wi-Fi: étape 8, image 2 de 2
    • Placez une ventouse sur la caméra frontale de l'iPad et appuyez dessus pour la faire adhérer à la surface.

    • Pour obtenir le meilleur effet de levier, placez la ventouse le plus proche possible du bord de l'écran sans le dépasser.

    This is the trickiest and scariest part of the procedure. (read all of the comments in Steps 1 and 2 and at the end of the guide). The iOpener also did not work for me - it simply would not soften the glue enough. I used a blowdryer. Have lots of patience and be gentle! I did not pull up on the suction cup very much. I softened the glue enough that I could get my fingernail under the glass, then I was able to wedge the pick in beside it. The rest of the screen removal went easy with the blowdryer and blue picks.

    Nancy Hansen - Réponse

    It helps to know that the adhesive is v narrow (2-3 mm) tapes, not great globs of bitumen. Once the seal is broken, you’ve won. Also, the shiny bezel is part of the metal body, not the screen, so get your widget between the glass and the bezel. And be patient. Even with a heat gun and IR thermometer it still took me 30 mins to get the screen off.

    Richard O'Brien - Réponse

    The screen glass can only be pulled up a fraction of a millimetre, just enough to insert the mere tip of an opening pick.

    The glue then gives way very slowly. Give it time to release before moving the pick slowly further in. If you pull the pick out without wedging the gap open with another pick the glue will re bind and you are back where you started.

    I used a very cheap Aldi laser thermometer to check temperatures. The glue seems to loosen at 41C+, although the heat takes time to penetrate.

    David Kennedy - Réponse

    When I purchased a new replacement battery, it came with a suction cup. That cheap cup wasn’t able to hold on the screen. luckily I had a set of heavy duty suction cups when I made a repair on my iMac. I recommend investing in the heavy duty cups.

    Heavy-Duty Suction Cups (Pair)

    These provide an excellent vacuum seal and leverage to lift the screen. Be careful and make sure you soften up the adhesive or you will crack the screen.

    Charles Meitin - Réponse

  9. Remplacement de l'écran complet de l'iPad Air 2 Wi-Fi: étape 9, image 1 de 3 Remplacement de l'écran complet de l'iPad Air 2 Wi-Fi: étape 9, image 2 de 3 Remplacement de l'écran complet de l'iPad Air 2 Wi-Fi: étape 9, image 3 de 3
    • Tirez fermement sur la ventouse pour créer un petit espace entre le panneau frontal et la coque arrière.

    • Ne tirez pas trop fort ou vous pourriez briser le verre.

    • Une fois que vous avez ouvert un espace suffisant, insérez un médiator dans l'espace pour éviter que l'adhésif réadhère.

    Even using a heat gun in an effort to soften the remarkably tenacious adhesive, I found it impossible to use the suction cup to lift the edge of the screen sufficiently high to insert a pick. I ended up using an exacto knife and a single-edge razor blade to make the initial opening, after which I was able to insert and use picks per the instructions.

    James Steffy - Réponse

    If you have the screen hot enough then it does lift and leave a small gap. I was really surprised. I was using the stronger suction cup that you can buy separately though

    Rich Pepp - Réponse

  10. Remplacement de l'écran complet de l'iPad Air 2 Wi-Fi: étape 10, image 1 de 3 Remplacement de l'écran complet de l'iPad Air 2 Wi-Fi: étape 10, image 2 de 3 Remplacement de l'écran complet de l'iPad Air 2 Wi-Fi: étape 10, image 3 de 3
    • Faites glisser le médiator en plastique le long du bord de l'écran, vers la prise casque.

    • Si le médiator rencontre encore beaucoup de résistance, répétez la procédure de chauffage avec l'iOpener et et chauffez plus.

    • Veillez à ne pas faire glisser le médiator entre l'écran LCD et le panneau frontal fusionnés, cela pourrait endommager définitivement l'écran.

    • En règle générale, n'insérez jamais le médiator sur plus de 6 mm dans l'iPad.

    I think I accidently slid my tool into the fused lcd and front panel and now the entire screen is doing weird lines and different colors and just is not natural its not even usable. I was gonna replace the battery because the batter was popping the entire front panel and lcd off of the base of the device and then when i was openingit up the rest of the way I slipped and it hit something and now its all glitchy. what should i do?? is it even worth fixing anymore? it;s too old for apple care and I already voided the warranty and displays are expensive what should I do? email me @ andrew.heidorn1@gmail.com thanks :)

    Andrew Heidorn - Réponse

    “a quarter of an inch” might be OK for the US/UK… what about pretty much the rest of the world using the metric system? When giving measurements, please always include them also in mm/cm

    Denis Hay - Réponse

    A quick google search will give you the answer

    Stranger Danger -

    Metric is for engineers. Last place on earth to use inches is US car industry. NASA uses metric. You know it makes sense.

    Peter Goodall - Réponse

    I shattered the glass on my iPad during this step.

    To melt the adhesive, you have to heat the glass A LOT, to at least 80°C. I was using a portable infrared thermometer while doing this. Heating the iOpener in my microwave for 60 seconds only raised its temperature to about 90°C, and leaving it on the glass for a few minutes didn’t raise the temperature of the glass to more than about 40°C. I switched to a hair dryer and heated the glass to about 70°C, which was barely enough to be able to insert one pick. As soon as I tried to slide it across, the glass broke.

    I recommend having a reliable way to measure the temperature, and finding something that can heat more effectively than the iOpener. Also take caution to heat all along the top, not just the point where you’re inserting the pick. In theory the iOpener is designed for this, but it doesn’t get hot enough.

    I wish the iOpener came with a specific heat rating. It has many warnings against overheating it but it’s not clear exactly how much is too much.

    Daniel Corks - Réponse

    6mm is far too much at the side. There is only 4mm from edge of glass to the display unit . I guess I damages my display because the pledge had gone between glass and display.

    tobiasscholand - Réponse

    The picks should have a 5mm indent on them so you can’t push them in to far, at least on one of the tips

    mpulliam - Réponse

    warning! The gap just below the home button is 2mm. Be very careful. It is the thinnest space!

    jinwoo KIM - Réponse

    Yep, this is the single most important instruction and where I like others screwed up. You really can't insert the pick more that 4mm otherwise it risks going between the screen and the digitiser. There is almost no resistance so it is very easy to do. It is almost worth marking a 4 mm depth on each pick before starting. Getting the adhesive to lift was really easy it the screen is hot enough, sticking the pick in too far is also too easy :(

    Rich Pepp - Réponse

    Purchase an electric griddle for pancakes, etc. Set the temp control until the hotplate measures 100 deg C, using a cheap IR thermometer to check the surface temp. Lay the display face down.

    Leave the device (iPad, smartphone, whatever) directly of the plate for about 2 minutes. Use heatproof gloves or thick cotton gloves to lift the device off the plate, placing it on a flattened towel, face up, to begin the prying process. Heating the entire device allows you to continue all the way around the outer edge without reheating, but work quickly.

    Plastic picks should be trimmed to 2mm or 4mm, tapering the edge down with sandpaper until it can slip between the display and the frame. Use a very thin knife blade, single edge razor blade, or thin stainless steel spudging blade to start the lifting process. Do NOT cause any bending distortion of the very thin LCD glass - it will break instantly! You must be below the front glass AND the LCD screen. Be absolutely sure!

    PATIENCE! Go no faster than the adhesive will release.

    Dan Smith - Réponse

  11. Remplacement de l'écran complet de l'iPad Air 2 Wi-Fi: étape 11, image 1 de 2 Remplacement de l'écran complet de l'iPad Air 2 Wi-Fi: étape 11, image 2 de 2
    • Insérez un deuxième médiator à côté de la caméra frontale.

  12. Remplacement de l'écran complet de l'iPad Air 2 Wi-Fi: étape 12, image 1 de 3 Remplacement de l'écran complet de l'iPad Air 2 Wi-Fi: étape 12, image 2 de 3 Remplacement de l'écran complet de l'iPad Air 2 Wi-Fi: étape 12, image 3 de 3
    • Faites glisser le deuxième médiator le long du bord supérieur de l'iPad, vers le bouton marche/veille.

  13. Remplacement de l'écran complet de l'iPad Air 2 Wi-Fi: étape 13, image 1 de 2 Remplacement de l'écran complet de l'iPad Air 2 Wi-Fi: étape 13, image 2 de 2
    • Insérez un troisième médiator à côté de la caméra frontale.

  14. Remplacement de l'écran complet de l'iPad Air 2 Wi-Fi: étape 14, image 1 de 3 Remplacement de l'écran complet de l'iPad Air 2 Wi-Fi: étape 14, image 2 de 3 Remplacement de l'écran complet de l'iPad Air 2 Wi-Fi: étape 14, image 3 de 3
    • Faites le tour du coin supérieur droit de l'iPad avec le médiator de droite.

  15. Remplacement de l'écran complet de l'iPad Air 2 Wi-Fi: étape 15, image 1 de 3 Remplacement de l'écran complet de l'iPad Air 2 Wi-Fi: étape 15, image 2 de 3 Remplacement de l'écran complet de l'iPad Air 2 Wi-Fi: étape 15, image 3 de 3
    • Faites glisser le médiator de gauche autour du coin supérieur gauche de la tablette.

  16. Remplacement de l'écran complet de l'iPad Air 2 Wi-Fi: étape 16, image 1 de 1
    • Réchauffez l'iOpener et placez-le sur le bord droit de l'écran pour y ramollir l'adhésif.

  17. Remplacement de l'écran complet de l'iPad Air 2 Wi-Fi: étape 17, image 1 de 3 Remplacement de l'écran complet de l'iPad Air 2 Wi-Fi: étape 17, image 2 de 3 Remplacement de l'écran complet de l'iPad Air 2 Wi-Fi: étape 17, image 3 de 3
    • Faites glisser le médiator de droite jusqu'au milieu de l'écran.

    take care not to insert more than 4mm!

    tobiasscholand - Réponse

    100% agree with the above comment - this wrecked my screen

    Nicholas Giles - Réponse

  18. Remplacement de l'écran complet de l'iPad Air 2 Wi-Fi: étape 18, image 1 de 1
    • Réchauffez l'iOpener et posez-le sur le côté gauche de l'iPad.

  19. Remplacement de l'écran complet de l'iPad Air 2 Wi-Fi: étape 19, image 1 de 3 Remplacement de l'écran complet de l'iPad Air 2 Wi-Fi: étape 19, image 2 de 3 Remplacement de l'écran complet de l'iPad Air 2 Wi-Fi: étape 19, image 3 de 3
    • Faites glisser le médiator de gauche jusqu'au milieu de l'écran.

  20. Remplacement de l'écran complet de l'iPad Air 2 Wi-Fi: étape 20, image 1 de 3 Remplacement de l'écran complet de l'iPad Air 2 Wi-Fi: étape 20, image 2 de 3 Remplacement de l'écran complet de l'iPad Air 2 Wi-Fi: étape 20, image 3 de 3
    • Faites glisser le médiator opposé vers le coin inférieur droit de l'iPad.

    • Si nécessaire, réchauffez l'adhésif sur le bord droit pour desserrer l'ensemble écran.

    This is it. This was the step where I cracked the screen and ruined the device. Things had been going so well up to this point. Like many others I struggled with the iOpener, so I used a heat gun along with a temperature sensor and very carefully and slowly went back and forth along the edges keeping the temperature at exactly 200 degrees F. I got the pick in, went around the top corners, down the sides to the middle. But on this step where you finish sliding the pick to the bottom right corner, I got 3/4ths of the way down and CRACK. The glass shattered pretty badly in the corner, and there’s a crack running diagonally along the entire device. I put clear packing tape on top to keep it from cracking further, but sections of the screen are non-responsive. I can’t tell you how upset my 5 year old is going to be when he wakes up tomorrow and I have to tell him daddy wrecked his iPad. :( I believe strongly in the Right to Repair and this kit is fine. But GO SLOWLY, and BE CAREFUL.

    George Mann - Réponse

    I also cracked the screen at this same point. The glue has to be heated well, and the sliding should be smooth and easy, not too tight. Go slow, and heat frequently.

    arunpgi - Réponse

  21. Remplacement de l'écran complet de l'iPad Air 2 Wi-Fi: étape 21, image 1 de 3 Remplacement de l'écran complet de l'iPad Air 2 Wi-Fi: étape 21, image 2 de 3 Remplacement de l'écran complet de l'iPad Air 2 Wi-Fi: étape 21, image 3 de 3
    • Faites glisser le médiator de gauche vers bas de l'écran, jusqu'à ce que vous atteigniez le coin.

    I made it one step farther than the person above me. Made it about 1 inch from the bottom left corner and the screen shattered. I probably let it cool too much as I think I was getting a little impatient by now. The kit is great though. I successfully removed the rest of the screen even after it broke with no damage to anything else. I continued on to replace the battery and bought a new LCD (This was a roughly $130 mistake). I stress, go slowly, heat often. Kit worked great otherwise.

    Joseph Eichinger - Réponse

  22. Remplacement de l'écran complet de l'iPad Air 2 Wi-Fi: étape 22, image 1 de 1
    • Utilisez l'iOpener pour faire chauffer le bord inférieur de l'iPad.

  23. Remplacement de l'écran complet de l'iPad Air 2 Wi-Fi: étape 23, image 1 de 3 Remplacement de l'écran complet de l'iPad Air 2 Wi-Fi: étape 23, image 2 de 3 Remplacement de l'écran complet de l'iPad Air 2 Wi-Fi: étape 23, image 3 de 3
    • Faites le tour du coin inférieur de l'iPad avec le médiator de droite.

  24. Remplacement de l'écran complet de l'iPad Air 2 Wi-Fi: étape 24, image 1 de 3 Remplacement de l'écran complet de l'iPad Air 2 Wi-Fi: étape 24, image 2 de 3 Remplacement de l'écran complet de l'iPad Air 2 Wi-Fi: étape 24, image 3 de 3
    • Répétez avec le médiator à gauche.

    • Réchauffez et reposez l'iOpener au besoin. Attendez toujours au moins dix minutes avant de réchauffer l'iOpener.

  25. Remplacement de l'écran complet de l'iPad Air 2 Wi-Fi: étape 25, image 1 de 2 Remplacement de l'écran complet de l'iPad Air 2 Wi-Fi: étape 25, image 2 de 2
    • Retirez le médiator de droite au bas de l'iPad.

    F…ing cracked the glass. This repair is a waste of time and money. The iOpener is b.s. You need to use a heat gun and/or a blow dryer. I had used the heat gun and a blow dryer to successfully separated the glass from the body until I reached the bottom. This is becuase I had left the heated iOpener on the bottom for at least 20 minutes. I used the blow dryer for the top and sides and it worked. When I turned the corner on the bottom, the glass shattered. The tip of pick was not in very far, maybe 2mm. Guess my only option now is a new iPad.

    mpulliam - Réponse

    same here, and I’m not using their $2 dinky microwave palm rest, I have a head gun and I’ve been heating this thing for 20 mintues side by side. Still cracked the class. Don’t attempt this, to do this successfully you should’ve had cracked 10 screens.

    Hussam Almuayad - Réponse

  26. Remplacement de l'écran complet de l'iPad Air 2 Wi-Fi: étape 26, image 1 de 3 Remplacement de l'écran complet de l'iPad Air 2 Wi-Fi: étape 26, image 2 de 3 Remplacement de l'écran complet de l'iPad Air 2 Wi-Fi: étape 26, image 3 de 3
    • Faites glisser le médiator de gauche le long du bord inférieur de l'écran, puis retirez-le du coin inférieur droit de l'iPad.

    • Attention à ne pas insérer le médiator sur plus de 2 mm sous le bouton home, pour éviter d'abîmer le bouton.

    • Attention à ne pas insérer le médiator sur plus de 6 mm dans l'écran de chaque côté du bouton home, pour éviter d'endommager les nappes d'écran en-dessous.

    warning! The gap just below the home button is 2mm. Be very careful. It is the thinnest space!

    jinwoo KIM - Réponse

    Well, there is actually only 2mm at the bottom just around the home button. Be careful! I broke mine since iFixit didn’t point that out!

    Konzentrat - Réponse

    Thanks for the comments! I’ll add the warning into the step.

    Arthur Shi - Réponse

  27. Remplacement de l'écran complet de l'iPad Air 2 Wi-Fi: étape 27, image 1 de 3 Remplacement de l'écran complet de l'iPad Air 2 Wi-Fi: étape 27, image 2 de 3 Remplacement de l'écran complet de l'iPad Air 2 Wi-Fi: étape 27, image 3 de 3
    • Faites pivoter le médiator près de la caméra frontale pour séparer le bord supérieur de l'écran et la coque arrière.

  28. Remplacement de l'écran complet de l'iPad Air 2 Wi-Fi: étape 28, image 1 de 3 Remplacement de l'écran complet de l'iPad Air 2 Wi-Fi: étape 28, image 2 de 3 Remplacement de l'écran complet de l'iPad Air 2 Wi-Fi: étape 28, image 3 de 3
    • Continuez à soulever l'ensemble écran depuis le côté de la caméra frontale.

    • Soulevez légèrement l'écran par son bord inférieur pour le séparer complètement de la coque arrière.

    • Continuez à soulever jusqu'à ce que l'ensemble écran soit à peu près perpendiculaire au corps de l'iPad.

    • N'essayez pas encore d'enlever l'écran – il est toujours relié à la coque arrière par trois nappes fragiles.

  29. Remplacement de l'écran complet de l'iPad Air 2 Wi-Fi: étape 29, image 1 de 1
    • Retirez la seule vis cruciforme de 1,8 mm fixant les bornes de la batterie à leurs contacts sur la carte mère.

    Be very careful when replacing the screws not to lose them. They are micro small. I would even think about ordering a couple extra of each size just in case.

    David Christoff - Réponse

    What I did was, initially using a magnetic screwdriver bit, after removing putting them on a magnetic mat, then after removing cables I screwed them back into the original holes to hold them in safe place while completing the repair.

    Yes, those screws are some of the tiniest screws I have seen, on par with mechanical watch mechanism screws.

    Drop one of them, and you are screwed.

    G Trieste -

    I have damge this battery terminals to their contacts on the logic board when I remove the battery. So how to fix this? Can buy that hardware to make replacement? Urgent! Need Help!

    jackwong.123 - Réponse

    Hi jackwong,

    If you are talking about the small springs that contact the battery, there is no easy way to replace them. You can try removing the board, applying a lump of solder on the contact with the broken spring, and see if that will be sufficient to connect to the battery contact when the board is screwed down.

    Arthur Shi -

    If the LTE version being worked on, ensure the sim tray is removed before attempting to isolate the battery.

    Brendon Gould - Réponse

    Is the logic board on the iFixit battery replacement thicker than the Apple battery? I can’t screw in this 1.8mm screw.

    Taylor Kosiba - Réponse

  30. Remplacement de l'écran complet de l'iPad Air 2 Wi-Fi, Information sur le connecteur de la batterie: étape 30, image 1 de 3 Remplacement de l'écran complet de l'iPad Air 2 Wi-Fi, Information sur le connecteur de la batterie: étape 30, image 2 de 3 Remplacement de l'écran complet de l'iPad Air 2 Wi-Fi, Information sur le connecteur de la batterie: étape 30, image 3 de 3
    • Ces photos montrent à quoi ressemble le connecteur de la batterie sous la carte mère. Servez-vous de ces photos comme référence pour déconnecter la batterie en toute sécurité.

    • Notez que le connecteur de la batterie possède des ressorts sur la carte mère qui appuient contre les broches de contact de la batterie. Il faudra que vous glissiez quelque chose de fin et souple entre les points de contact pour déconnecter la batterie.

  31. Remplacement de l'écran complet de l'iPad Air 2 Wi-Fi: étape 31, image 1 de 2 Remplacement de l'écran complet de l'iPad Air 2 Wi-Fi: étape 31, image 2 de 2
    • Pour réduire le risque d'un court-circuit, vous pouvez utiliser un médiator d'isolation de la batterie pour déconnecter la batterie.

    • Faites très attention quand vous isolez la batterie avec un bloqueur de batterie. Les contacts de la batterie s'abîment facilement, ce qui entraîne des dommages irréversibles à la carte mère.

    • Faites glisser un médiator pour isoler la batterie en-dessous de la zone du connecteur de la batterie sur la carte mère et laissez-le en place pendant votre travail.

    • Autrement, fabriquez un bloqueur de batterie avec une carte à jouer et glissez-le sous le connecteur de la carte mère pour déconnecter la batterie.

    Where am I supposed to get this part? I got the ifixit pro toolkit and didn't get this isolation pick

    Raid One - Réponse

    Since the battery blocker is a specialized tool used only for iPad repairs, we do not include it in the toolkit. You can purchase one here, or you can make one yourself by cutting a notch out of an opening pick.

    Arthur Shi -

    Can’t you just disconnect the battery?

    Pontus Sennerstam - Réponse

    So if this method is outdated, what is the current method to disconnecting the battery?

    Orochi - Réponse

    Orochi: right?? Come on guys, don’t tell us the method is outdated and then not explain what the better method is

    Subtle Hyperbole - Réponse

    A couple points: 1) You have piqued my interest! I’m now looking for the new, improved way to isolate the battery before embarking on the repair. 2) I have an iPad Air 2 with LTE, the area on ifixit.com for the LTE variant of the model does not have all the procedures that this WIFI only variant page has.

    bentley - Réponse

    Hey bentley,

    If you find a way to safely isolate the battery without the risk of damaging the connector pins, keep us posted!

    Arthur Shi -

    I did not do this part and had no problems. Just don’t bridge any metal parts with the screwdriver. (at least I assume this is what would cause a short)

    Nancy Hansen - Réponse

    Actually you can cause some shorts with your fingers too. You can skip this step, but you must bee very carefull going on.

    Daniele Carminati -

    Heat motherboard then use plastic stick or guitar pick to gently unstick motherboard enough to insert peace of paper where battery contacts are.

    Thank me later.

    Popka Durak - Réponse

    I took a business card and notched it like the shown pick. Just wide enough to fit and notched to clear the screw post. Worked like a champ.

    Charles Meitin - Réponse

    마더보드는 바닥판에 접착되어 있습니다. 이것은 배터리 접점에서 들어 올려져야(약간 구부러져야) 합니다. 사진을 자세히 보시면 터미널의 좌우 기판도 보입니다.

    jinwoo KIM - Réponse

    jinwoo KIM’s comment translated:

    The motherboard is glued to the bottom plate. This must be lifted (slightly bent) from the battery contacts. If you look closely at the photos, you will also see the left and right boards of the terminal.

    G Trieste - Réponse

    I recently successfully replaced a battery on this unit.

    I did not see why the warning at the top of this repair guide is necessary, as the battery is connected via several contacts surrounding the screw hole, and the insulating pick they show, or something similarly shaped, should work at isolating the battery. Of course this is only my observation, so take it as you may, I make no assurances of anything.

    Removing/replacing the battery is whole ‘nother ballgame however.

    The ipad’s contacts are pressed down on the battery contacts, around the hole, that screw hole has an elevated bump which the battery connections have to be slid up and over that bump, requiring the lifting of the ipad connector and possibly part of the motherboard — which is also thermal glued to the case; you may have to heat up the bottom of the case to release that enough to lift.

    I am going to post this info also on the battery replacement repair section for this model.

    G Trieste - Réponse

  32. Remplacement de l'écran complet de l'iPad Air 2 Wi-Fi: étape 32, image 1 de 3 Remplacement de l'écran complet de l'iPad Air 2 Wi-Fi: étape 32, image 2 de 3 Remplacement de l'écran complet de l'iPad Air 2 Wi-Fi: étape 32, image 3 de 3
    • Retirez les trois vis cruciformes de 1,3 mm du cache de la nappe d'écran.

    • Ôtez le cache.

  33. Remplacement de l'écran complet de l'iPad Air 2 Wi-Fi: étape 33, image 1 de 2 Remplacement de l'écran complet de l'iPad Air 2 Wi-Fi: étape 33, image 2 de 2
    • Déconnectez le connecteur de la nappe d'écran de sa prise sur la carte mère.

  34. Remplacement de l'écran complet de l'iPad Air 2 Wi-Fi: étape 34, image 1 de 3 Remplacement de l'écran complet de l'iPad Air 2 Wi-Fi: étape 34, image 2 de 3 Remplacement de l'écran complet de l'iPad Air 2 Wi-Fi: étape 34, image 3 de 3
    • Débranchez les deux nappes de la vitre tactile restant sous la nappe de données de l'écran.

    I don’t know where this repair guide is going at this point.

    It is supposed to be a guide to replace the battery, but goes on to a complete disassembly of the iPad. You don’t have to disassemble the whole iPad to replace the battery.

    The battery is inserted underneath the motherboard’s power connection slot. There is a screw that secures it, which is removed during battery replacement. The screw hole is on an elevated bump which the battery contacts have to be slid up and over, requiring the partial lifting of the motherboard at the battery connection — if necessary heat up the bottom of the case there to lift it up.

    When secured, the insert contacts sit around the hole. The tricky part is lifting that part high enough so that the battery connector can get over the bump, and the holes line up.

    I have found a hack that makes this a lot easier. Simply snip a small slot at the front of the hole of the battery connector. This way it does not have to lift over the bump, but can slide around it on both sides.

    G Trieste - Réponse

    I would love to see a guide on how to replace the charging/data connector.

    There was a comment under the part-page that mentioned it was tricky to replace due to the soldering involved.

    Do i need a hot-air station or will my fine tipped iron be enough?

    Mark Hoekman - Réponse

  35. Remplacement de l'écran complet de l'iPad Air 2 Wi-Fi: étape 35, image 1 de 1
    • Retirez le panneau frontal de la coque arrière.

    • Si vous avez l'intention de réutiliser le panneau frontal, vous devrez remplacer l'adhésif de l'écran. Consultez notre tutoriel pour bandes adhésives d'iPad afin de poser une nouvelle couche d'adhésif et refermer l'écran.

    Note on my iPad Air there was a little plastic cover around the front facing camera. Take that off an put it to one side as you will need it later for reassembly.

    John McDonnell - Réponse

    At this stage I found you do not need to do most of the rest of this guide although it does come with a warning. The battery is tethered to a metal ring which is the base of the retention screw in step 29. After Step 33, you can separate out the batteries from its adhesive now with a blow dryer or the iOpener (step 56). You will then find the battery free but hooked onto the ring. Take the blue opening tool (see step 55 for which tool this is) and wedge it where the battery is to make a gap. You can then lift the battery contact from its hook. After removing the battery, insert the new one into the small gap created by the wedge. The caveat is that you are bending the logic board a bit with the wedge so use this technique at your discretion.

    Raza Toosy - Réponse

    Thanks a lot! For my Celluar version (A1567 Air 2 Wi-Fi + Cellular), I followed the instructions to step 45 to remove all cables and connectors around the battery. Then I also jumped to step 56. To remove the middle part of the battery, I used a longer tool, a ruler, in addition to the enclosed "Plastic Cards". The glued battery could be removed by using the iOpener several times. In the end, the battery was only hanging on the clamp.

    Only now I understood that the battery was hanging on an eyelet on the back. The lever with the "iPad Battery Isolation Pick" was not enough. Therefore I cut an additional credit card with a small slot. The clamping point slipped out of the eyelet. The clamping point of the new battery could be plugged in again immediately.

    Josef Emmer -

    Thank you Raza for this shortcut. I used it as you explained and made a slight change. I noticed that the eye on the battery’s contact is not really locking the battery in place. It is the powerful glue that does. In addition, the screw in step 29 secures the contact assembly. So, to facilitate the positioning of the replacement battery, I cut the eye to make it a U, so that I could slide the eye around the holding ring without risking to bend the logic board.

    Richard Jacquot - Réponse

    I understand the process and reasoning for snipping the ring of the new battery to get it around that post, but how are you removing the old one without bending the logic board? You still have to get the ring of the old one up and over that raised post portion?

    Jason McCOy -

    2022-02-27 update: Manage to skip step 35 onward. I can change the battery without removing the logic board for my iPad Air 2 . It’s similar to the steps in Remplacement de la batterie de l'iPad Air LTE. Thanks Raza for the tips.

    Wex - Réponse

  36. Remplacement de l'écran complet de l'iPad Air 2 Wi-Fi, Ensemble du bouton home: étape 36, image 1 de 3 Remplacement de l'écran complet de l'iPad Air 2 Wi-Fi, Ensemble du bouton home: étape 36, image 2 de 3 Remplacement de l'écran complet de l'iPad Air 2 Wi-Fi, Ensemble du bouton home: étape 36, image 3 de 3
    • Posez l'ensemble écran vers le bas.

    • Utilisez un outil d'ouverture en plastique pour faire levier et ôter le support derrière du bouton home.

    May require pushing back some tape to access the slot for the opening tool

    Terry Dactil - Réponse

  37. Remplacement de l'écran complet de l'iPad Air 2 Wi-Fi: étape 37, image 1 de 3 Remplacement de l'écran complet de l'iPad Air 2 Wi-Fi: étape 37, image 2 de 3 Remplacement de l'écran complet de l'iPad Air 2 Wi-Fi: étape 37, image 3 de 3
    • Retirez le support du bouton home et décollez le ruban adhésif qui lui est fixé.

    • Lors du remontage, après avoir installé le bouton d'accueil, vous devrez coller ce support pour le fixer.

    • Grattez autant que possible l'ancien résidu d'adhésif du support, puis nettoyez-le avec de l'acétone ou de l'alcool isopropylique concentré (90% ou plus).

    • Fixez le support avec de la colle thermofusible, de la superglue ou du ruban adhésif double face haute résistance. Assurez-vous que le support est correctement aligné avant de laisser sécher votre adhésif, sinon le bouton d'accueil ne cliquera pas lorsqu'il sera enfoncé.

    attention à cette étape de ne pas décoller en même temps la gappe du bouton. Celui ci peux etre tordu et difficile à remettre.

    jipilabont - Réponse

  38. Remplacement de l'écran complet de l'iPad Air 2 Wi-Fi: étape 38, image 1 de 3 Remplacement de l'écran complet de l'iPad Air 2 Wi-Fi: étape 38, image 2 de 3 Remplacement de l'écran complet de l'iPad Air 2 Wi-Fi: étape 38, image 3 de 3
    • Décoller le ruban adhésif recouvrant le connecteur ZIF du bouton home.

  39. Remplacement de l'écran complet de l'iPad Air 2 Wi-Fi: étape 39, image 1 de 2 Remplacement de l'écran complet de l'iPad Air 2 Wi-Fi: étape 39, image 2 de 2
    • Utilisez l'extrémité plate d'un spudger pour soulever le clapet de retenue sur la prise de la nappe du bouton home.

  40. Remplacement de l'écran complet de l'iPad Air 2 Wi-Fi: étape 40, image 1 de 2 Remplacement de l'écran complet de l'iPad Air 2 Wi-Fi: étape 40, image 2 de 2
    • Déconnectez la nappe du bouton home.

  41. Remplacement de l'écran complet de l'iPad Air 2 Wi-Fi: étape 41, image 1 de 3 Remplacement de l'écran complet de l'iPad Air 2 Wi-Fi: étape 41, image 2 de 3 Remplacement de l'écran complet de l'iPad Air 2 Wi-Fi: étape 41, image 3 de 3
    • Utilisez l'extrémité plate d'un spudger pour détacher la nappe du bouton home et de la puce de contrôle Touch ID.

  42. Remplacement de l'écran complet de l'iPad Air 2 Wi-Fi: étape 42, image 1 de 2 Remplacement de l'écran complet de l'iPad Air 2 Wi-Fi: étape 42, image 2 de 2
    • Détachez le coin restant de la nappe du bouton home.

    What is the purpose of the contact finger that is exposed on the corner of the home button ribbon cable. What connects to this?

    Steven Teraoka - Réponse

  43. Remplacement de l'écran complet de l'iPad Air 2 Wi-Fi: étape 43, image 1 de 1
    • Réchauffez votre iOpener et placez-le sur le bord inférieur de l'écran pour ramollir l'adhésif sur le joint du bouton home.

    • Attendez environ deux minutes que l'adhésif ramollisse avant de passer à l'étape suivante.

    Most screens don’t come with the home button adhesive so during reassembly the residue from the home button gasket is enough but the bracket needs new glue.

    Thaddeus Lee - Réponse

  44. Remplacement de l'écran complet de l'iPad Air 2 Wi-Fi: étape 44, image 1 de 3 Remplacement de l'écran complet de l'iPad Air 2 Wi-Fi: étape 44, image 2 de 3 Remplacement de l'écran complet de l'iPad Air 2 Wi-Fi: étape 44, image 3 de 3
    • Dans les étapes suivantes, vous enlèverez le joint du bouton home, du panneau frontal de l'iPad. Ce joint est extrêmement fragile et peut se déchirer facilement. Si le joint ne se sépare pas facilement du panneau frontal, refaites-le chauffer à l'aide de l'iOpener avant de continuer.

    • Utilisez l'extrémité pointue d'un spudger pour retirer doucement l'ensemble du bouton home de l'écran.

    Another option… heat it up a bit and then apply gentle pressure from the front of the button. Start with one “corner” and work your way around.

    Mine came out like very smoothly with this process.

    Good luck!

    John Monahan - Réponse

  45. Remplacement de l'écran complet de l'iPad Air 2 Wi-Fi: étape 45, image 1 de 3 Remplacement de l'écran complet de l'iPad Air 2 Wi-Fi: étape 45, image 2 de 3 Remplacement de l'écran complet de l'iPad Air 2 Wi-Fi: étape 45, image 3 de 3
    • Continuez à travailler à l'aide de la pointe du spudger autour du bord du joint jusqu'à ce que le joint soit complètement séparé du panneau frontal.

    Salve tra il pannello anteriore e il tasto home nuovo va messa della colla?

    Alessia - Réponse

  46. Remplacement de l'écran complet de l'iPad Air 2 Wi-Fi: étape 46, image 1 de 3 Remplacement de l'écran complet de l'iPad Air 2 Wi-Fi: étape 46, image 2 de 3 Remplacement de l'écran complet de l'iPad Air 2 Wi-Fi: étape 46, image 3 de 3
    • Ôtez l'ensemble du bouton home.

    • Si vous remplacez l'ensemble LCD, certains ensembles ont l'emplacement du connecteur du bouton home légèrement différent qui vous obligera à replier la nappe du bouton home en forme de «S» comme indiqué sur l'image.

    There is also a plastic waster around the hole which can be lifted and placed on the new screen - not just the grommet.

    John McDonnell - Réponse

    Yeah, that’s a big problem with this guide. Not to mention the home button bracket needs the little magnet in the circle dimple. I broke my original home button from trying to get the darn thing to work using a new home button bracket until I used the old bracket with the tiny magnet and suddenly it worked. Since the original home button ribbon had broken I can no longer use touch ID.

    Overall this guide is really lacking in critical details, like how exactly the home button assembly is put together and taken apart, like where the little plastic washer, and grommet go.

    Grant Godfrey - Réponse

    And this picture is out of focus, making it hard to differentiate the items that are mentioned/warned about in the written portion.

    Evan A Boyle - Réponse

  47. Remplacement de l'écran complet de l'iPad Air 2 Wi-Fi, Écran complet: étape 47, image 1 de 3 Remplacement de l'écran complet de l'iPad Air 2 Wi-Fi, Écran complet: étape 47, image 2 de 3 Remplacement de l'écran complet de l'iPad Air 2 Wi-Fi, Écran complet: étape 47, image 3 de 3
    • Examinez votre pièce de rechange et votre écran d'origine pour vous assurer qu'ils correspondent.

    • Votre écran de remplacement peut manquer le capteur de marche/veille, qui est nécessaire pour l'utilisation de Smart Cover. Si vous souhaitez garder cette fonction, vous devrez transférer le composant.

    • Dessoudez les quatre plaques de soudure en bas à gauche de l'écran pour enlever la nappe de l'ensemble capteur.

    • L'étape suivante inclut des instructions pour transférer ce capteur vers le nouvel écran.

    I guess I may have not soldered the sleep/wake sensor right and it was not working after I put the new screen back on. I wish there could be a way to test if the soldering was good or not before I connect the screen back. Also, I have found that even the sleep/wake button near the upper right corner even cannot put the ipad into sleep or wake it up by pressing it once. I guess this could related with the sensor, and the lock/unlock option under the "display & brightness" setting has also been gone due to this issue. So I would say this sensor is not only for the smart case, but also for the sleep/wake button to work as well (the other functions of this button such as poweroff, taking screenshots are still working fine). Solder it carefully if you still want the button to work.

    Ming Chen - Réponse

    Hmm, thank you for the tip Ming Chen. Sounds a bit daunting but i’ll see how the repair goes.

    Lilly - Réponse

    It worked! Outsourced the soldering job. But sleep/wake feature works.

    Lilly -

    This is the most tricky part of the repair - don’t over force the separation. Don’t over heat the pads with the iron too as it needs to be soldered back. Soldering back is straight forward. I recommend you have an iron with a decent tip.

    John McDonnell - Réponse

    can this be done with a regular soldering iron? or does it need to be a micro soldering?

    lopes.miguelac - Réponse

    what size adhesive tape is required to reattach the display to the case?

    scottschindler - Réponse

    it is way easier to remove the display sensor using hot air. Add a little flux and apply hot air @ 400c for a few seconds and it flips right off clean, no solder bleed onto the other pads. clean pads if needed then use kapton tape to secure it onto place over tinned pads of the new display, add flux and swipe over the pads with a iron. Clean with IPA and done. The right tools make the difference here, the photo of the repaired pads in this guide look horrific.

    James Ho - Réponse

    I ripped this part off. Is it done for?

    Jake Green - Réponse

    Will I have to remove the sensor if my replacment display already comes with it? I kinda got confused with the wording on this step

    Xavier - Réponse

    Hi Xavier,

    If your replacement display already has the sensor, you do not have to transfer the old one.

    Arthur Shi -

    • Cette vidéo détaille la procédure pour dessouder la nappe du capteur et la fixer au nouvel écran.

    Hello,

    short urgent question:

    Is this step (desolder the sensor felx) necessary for the function of the display or only for the Home button (touch ID) function?

    Stephan Döbling - Réponse

    Hi is the sensor only for Smart Cover ?

    Malik Malhan - Réponse

    3y w/o any answers

    Magnifika Mole - Réponse

    As stated in the previous step, this step is for transferring the sleep/wake sensor that is used with the Smart Cover. It is unrelated to the Home button or the display.

    Arthur Shi - Réponse

    I didnt solder this off but ripped it off. Any way to fix?

    Jake Green - Réponse

  48. Remplacement de l'écran complet de l'iPad Air 2 Wi-Fi: étape 49, image 1 de 1
    • L'écran complet reste.

    You may need to transfer the camera surround from the old digitizer, if your new part does not include it.

    Kelly - Réponse

    Do not forget to clean off the old glue around the edges. it takes a while but is worthwhile to make the new screen with the new adhesive stick better.

    John McDonnell - Réponse

    I had the precut replacement adhesive tape kit. Unfortunately it did not come with instructions on how to and in what order to remove the plastic. I ended up trying to get the adhesive tape lay in properly. I highly recommend the 4mm TESA tape.

    Charles Meitin - Réponse

Conclusion

Pour réassembler votre appareil, suivez ces instructions dans l'ordre inverse.

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25 commentaires

What about the part soldered to the display to the left of the home button? It's showcased in step 43 but hidden with black tape then missing in step 44? What is the significants of this component or flex cable...

jmcdonough - Réponse

Where is the transfer of the sleep/wake sensor? its a 4 point solder connection.

Anthony W - Réponse

Be careful if you replace the home button bracket, many of the replacements do not have the small silver disc that sits in the recess on the inside of the bracket. If you do not transfer this from the old one, the home button will not work as there will be nothing for the home button to press against

waynechamberlain - Réponse

can you describe how to transfer the sensor flex cable assembly (four small solder points left to home button on step 45)?

No use to buy your spare part without this step!

kaspar - Réponse

This is one of the harder steps to accomplish I felt. You need to de-solder the four points by heating them up at the same time if possible. They actually have small holes in the center of them for the solder to go through to the bottom pads. Once it is removed you need to clean them off and remove as much old solder as possible without damaging the ribbon they are on. Once you have the new screen in place you need to put the part in its appropriate place and then solder the points. Using an ample amount of flux is helpful but you have to clean up afterwards with IP alcohol. If you have a small microscope or good camera you can zoom in and see if the connections are solid and then you are done.

Benjamin Huntsman -

Having the same problem as Kaspar. Cannot re-install sleep/wake sensor.

Christopher Williams - Réponse

Looking for the display cable bracket, but it is impossible to find. Anyone?

Stefan L - Réponse

I´ve replace LCD Display for newer one because crash it before, but the actual problem is that I don´t have any image. If I press the power button, just display gray color. What can I do?

David Reva - Réponse

You will have to check the connection of the ribbon cables, but generally this means you have a bad replacement screen (LCD in particular). I would recommend getting a new screen (digitizer and lcd) assembly.

JJ Burrill -

For the sleep wake sensor, I just took my hakko iron, no flux or anything special and de soldered the sensor from the original screen. After this I aligned it on the new one with my tweezers and heated it up with my iron around 650 F. Once my tip was tinned, I got the solder flowing and it was all connected. Either I'm good at soldering (I think so?) or I got lucky. Would have been easier with flux but it is not impossible. The repair was 100% successful, and the sensor works perfect in the case... Hope others have the same luck I did! Took me about 3 ish hours to completely get the screen off, parts transferred, and the adhesive mess cleaned before resealing the new one down.

JJ Burrill - Réponse

I just received iFixit LCD/digitizer/glass replacement assembly for iPad Air 2 (A1566) and see the distance between the IC’s on either side of the home button ribbon cable is narrower than on the original LCD! There is no room for the Touch ID chip since the distance from the Ziff connector (where the home button ribbon cable attaches) to the IC next to where the Touch ID chip goes is narrower by about 8mm!

Is there a new version of the home button with a shorter ribbon cable or is this a mistake in the replacement screens? To re-use the original home button you would have to fold its ribbon cable or put the Touch chip up on the IC so it would probably not allow the screen assembly to seat properly.

Has anyone else had this problem?

James Sturgeon - Réponse

I am having the same issue! Did this ever get resolved for you?

Jonathan Nicholas -

Having trouble getting the home button to work … thankfully I’ve not stuck the new screen in place yet.

The home button gasket is in perfect condition,as is the bracket.

Everything looks correct, but there is no click from the button.

I can however activate the home button with the case open, by pressing on the small brass/metal piece in the centre … there is an audible click on the screen behaves as it should.

When remounting the home button bracket, is it OK to use glue or is it best to use tape, which in turn would create a small “gap” between the bracket and the front panel, or is best to use glue and just ensure that the bracket is as tight as possible up against the front panel, with no gap whatsoever.

In the event I cannot get the home button to work, then the workaround is to use the AssistiveTouch software option, which in theory removes the need to use/have a hardware button … not ideal though, so advice on how to fix the button is appreciated.

Chris - Réponse

I’m having the same problem. Will update once/if I figure it out. Otherwise, thanks for the suggestion using assistive touch.

Stephen -

Ok so I've found out what is causing this from someone with more experience than myself. On the back of the home button there is normally a small gold circle with a black dot in the middle. This is Kapton tape with a small black nipple maybe the size of a " . " so very tiny. This small dot makes contact with the silver nub on the bracket to get the button to have the tactile button press. It's super small and almost looks like a ink mark or paint but its actually needed to get the button to do what it's supposed to. I used one off a replacement home button and glued it back but i was told it can be taken from the back of an iPhone 6's home button too. Can not tell you how aggravating this was.

Stephen Redd -

I have completed all the steps. Apple logo came on when i first attempted to power on. now there is nothing. any suggestions?

ryb4420 - Réponse

Cannot get picks in to open case. Used iOpener repeatedly, but screen will not lift away from case? Any tips?

Rob - Réponse

Just so I’m clear… can I skip the soldering steps if I don’t want the cover sensor functionality?

Andrew Wolff - Réponse

could I not stick the screen down and test it without sticking the screen down so that I can double-check and make sure that everything works?

Aussie Ginger - Réponse

Yes, you can test the functionality without sticking the screen down. Make sure that the edges of the screen do not touch anything that can short it.

Arthur Shi -

With the battery isolation pick being outdated, what do you use instead? Is it best to just take out the battery and disconnect it when repairing iPads?

Mobile Service Point - Réponse

We are currently working on a more reliable and safer procedure to disconnect the battery. In the meanwhile, continue to use the battery blocker. I would caution being extra careful when you insert the blocker, to make sure that it does not snag or hit any pins.

Arthur Shi -

My display unit (from iFixit) came with wake/sleep sensor installed, so no (de-)soldering required! I just transferred the home button assembly and all little bits of tape from the original screen to keep home button and wake/sleep sensor in place. I used a 3M nexcare hot/cold pack to loosen the display glue, which works, but you need to heat the pack beyond its spec (needs to go up to 80-100 degrees Celsius): fortunately the pack is transparent, so you can stop the microwave when you see the pack starting to boil(!). Leave pack on glue for 6-10 minutes, not 2. Finally, my screen was cracked, so I needed to repeat the “initial opening” procedure with the suction cup for each contiguous piece of glass. Whole process took about 2 hours, the hardest bit of which was loosening the original screen.

Dennis Wagelaar - Réponse

I've done the procedure and now the iPad won't turn on. No signs of life either by keeping it charging or by pushing buttons.

Any suggestions on what to do, other than to try and re-connect the screen cables?

I've charged the iPad when it had no screen attached, battery was at 0%.

Thanks in advance

Emilio

Emilio Z - Réponse

If you don't get a Tactile response from the home button :"On the back of the home button there is normally a small gold circle with a black dot in the middle. This is Kapton tape with a small black nipple maybe the size of a " . " so very tiny. You can see this in the pictures above. This small dot makes contact with the silver nub on the bracket to get the button to have the tactile button press. It's super small and almost looks like a ink mark or paint but its actually needed to get the button to do what it's supposed to. I used one off a replacement home button and glued it back but I was told it can be taken from the back of an iPhone 6's home button too. Can not tell you how aggravating this was."

Stephen Redd - Réponse

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