Introduction
Avec ce tutoriel, remplacez l'ensemble écran de votre MacBook Pro.
Ce dont vous avez besoin
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Retirez les dix vis suivantes, fixant le boîtier inférieur au boîtier supérieur :
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Trois vis Phillips 13,5 mm.
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Sept vis Phillips 3 mm.
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Calez vos doigts entre le boîtier inférieur et l'évent, et soulevez pour libérer les deux clips qui maintiennent le boîtier inférieur sur le boîtier supérieur.
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Lors du réassemblage, alignez soigneusement le boîtier inférieur, puis appuyez fermement dessus jusqu'à ce que les deux clips s'enclenchent.
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Retirez le boîtier.
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Si elle est présente, saisissez la languette en plastique attachée au connecteur de la batterie et tirez-la vers le bord avant de l'appareil. Pour les modèles fin 2011, le connecteur de batterie n'a pas de languette mais simplement une prise qui s'insère directement dans la carte mère - pour la retirer, tirez-la vers le haut.
This step is a little difficult in reverse, that is, when re-attaching the battery. It helps to tilt the laptop up so you can see the edge of the board that accepts the plug. It may look like there are two slots for it, it goes in the bigger slot that is further away from the board.
Is this step really necessary? It is not part of the instructions how to replace the HDD in Apple's User Manual of the 2011 17" MBP.
As it says in the step: "Whenever working near the logic board, it is always wise to first disconnect the battery to avoid short circuits." It is not required, but it is simple insurance to avoid a $1000+ repair should you accidentally short components on the board with something metal.
There was no tab on my model. Battery is affixed to board and screws must be removed.
Mine also, and looks as if removing connector could damage motherboard.
Stephen -
The battery on my 17” mid-2010 (MC024LL/A -A1297 ) is held by 3 specialty screws CR-V1 (3-wings similar to Mercedes-Benz tri-star)
It has a tab which I pulled straight up
The connector to the motherboard came away easily by pulling toward the front edge.
* There is no tab on the A1297 (late 2011) model's battery connector. Be careful with the connector, it chips off the edges easily! Otherwise the same as bhodges2 & Stephen's notes.
** (Pleas also include the exact Model and Part numbers like P/N: MD311D/A; Mod.: A1297 in the comments and notes for your MBP)
Why are there no guides for the Late 2011 17" MacBook Pro A1297 (2.4GHz i7 quad core, MD311LL/A)??? I just replaced the RAM in mine and discovered that not only is there no tab on the battery connector, but the connector pulls straight up, perpendicular to the logic board, rather than parallel. I almost ripped the wires out of the connector by trying to pull it out parallel to the logic board like this guide instructed! After finally getting it out, my advice to those with the Late 2011 model is to use a spudger to loosen the edges of the connector then lift the connector straight up to get it out safely.
I replaced the display on my late 2011 model and noticed that it was quite different than the tutorial given here so I detailed all the differences to help others with late-2011 models on my blog: http://johnfixesstuff.blogspot.com/2014/...
jmueller -
With some dexterity and carefulness, the MagSafe could be removed from its place without the need to remove the whole logic board!
Same here, I used a head-band light to see it and got it done without removing anything but the battery connection, the charging port and the display data cable. Then I had to do it again because amazone sent me the wrong charging port, the board has different width between screw holes, and on closer look, different components soldered on, also. AND, one is labeled 2008, the other 2009… make sure you get the correct one, the other ( “wrong”? ) might work, but I’m not risking it! So why does the 2008 fit in my 17” macbook pro(5,2) mid-2009 and the one labeled 2009 does not fit ? It is what it is…
The battery on my 17” mid-2010 (MC024LL/A -A1297 ) is held by 3 specialty screws CR-V1 (3-wings similar to Mercedes-Benz tri-star)
It has a tab which I pulled straight up
The connector to the motherboard came away easily by pulling toward the front edge.
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Avec la pointe d'une spatule (spudger), poussez le petit dispositif d'attache en plastique hors de la prise de la nappe de la caméra, de façon à y voir clair quand vous retirez cette nappe.
I think I should have a photo of the plastic retainer as there may be more people like me who were afraid to take the part.
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Tirez délicatement la nappe Bluetooth vers les ventilateurs pour la déconnecter de la carte Bluetooth.
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Dévissez les deux vis extérieures Torx T6 de 6,8 mm fixant chacune des deux fixations de l'écran (quatre vis au total).
I viewed a YouTube video showing this process. There was a warning about the stripping of the Torx screws being common on this mid-2009 model MBP. Is that something you have come ever across? It's the only thing holding me back from attempting this myself. TY in advance!
Taking those hinge screws out can be difficult (they are fat, and they resist turning). In my first attempt I destroyed the Torx screwdriver bit (soft metal, I discovered, so the bit twisted into a corkscrew before it snapped off). After buying the ifixit screwdriver set I found that the driver bits were tough enough, but the screws still would not budge! So, I used a small mole-grip wrench to hold the metal part of the screwdriver, and GENTLY turned until I felt the screw give way with a click. Luckily, the threads did not strip. However, if you find that even with that extra torque from the wrench, it is still resisting in a big way, go one more step and try a very tiny drop of thread-loosening fluid on it. (That last suggestion, however, is risky, so be careful.... do not let any fluid get anywhere except the screw, and then give it time to work).
RichardL -
What's the url to the youtube video you mentioned?
Too late. I should have read the comments first but I was rushing. I just stripped two of them. They are in there super tight.
I just did this now (11:21 am, Sept 18 2014) A tip for removing glass bezel on the frame if you don't have a heat gun. I used a very sharp but super thin razor (the one for shaving) and slice the adhesive. Be careful not to hit the lcd. After slicing all around, get any thin plastic card and slide it all around the bezel until the glass comes off. I have a mid 09 macbook pro 17" that had a broken lcd and a 2010 macbook pro i7 17" that had a logic board problem but good lcd. Both A1297. I did it twice using my method.
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Saisissez le boîtier supérieur de votre main droite et faites-le légèrement pivoter vers le haut de l'écran de sorte que la fixation supérieure de l'écran s'éloigne du bord du boîtier supérieur.
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Faites pivoter et éloignez légèrement l'écran du boîtier supérieur.
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Soulevez et éloignez l'écran du boîtier supérieur en veillant à ce que ni les fixations ni les nappes ne restent accrochées.
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Lors du remontage, mettez l'écran en place et installez les vis Torx de la fixation d'écran, puis fermez l'écran et posez l'ordinateur portable à l'envers pour vérifier l'alignement de l'écran avec le reste de l'ordinateur. Si nécessaire, desserrez les vis et réalignez l'écran avant de les resserrer.
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Pour remonter votre ordinateur, suivez ces instructions en sens inverse.
Pour remonter votre ordinateur, suivez ces instructions en sens inverse.
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7 commentaires
This guide was a bit difficult to follow because the photos didn't represent 'exactly' what I was seeing. I was able to find the corresponding connections.
The trouble I'm having is the guide seems to end a few steps too soon. I still have a display inside the upper shell, the piece with the Apple logo. I'm very concerned for the well-being of the 'old' pieces in question. I have to save the upper case piece while extracting the display.
Any ideas please?
The title is misleading, and only covers the upper shell removal. I believe your issue is that you want to replace the display panel only, and not the enclosure or camera device. In most cases, however, technicians will simply counsel replacement of the entire upper shell, as replacing inner display components will rack up service hours and end up costing the equivalent of a new shell.
From an iFixit perspective, however, this is moot. You could find a display panel component on ebay, and do the work. I hope you found a more in-depth guide.
According to comments from iFixit on the teardown (MacBook Pro 17" Unibody Teardown), they don’t consider the upper case assembly to be repairable. See comments on step 23 of the teardown.
If anyone has been able to open and close the upper case without damaging it, please share the procedure with the rest of us!
shamino -
17” 2011 Macbook Pro 2.5 (BTO) has a different section at the left hand side, the part where the cables for the wireless hook up. Pay attention to the layout and think before untying any screws. The board that hooks up the wireless is “in” a separate bridge, installed next to the DVD writer with independent screws for suspension.
Excellent guide, thank you. My laptop is a bit different to pictures, but by looking at other guides and using this one as my main source it was easy to work it all out. I found it easier to lay the keyboard side on a foam mat on edge of table to remove and refit upper shell as in this demo: https://youtu.be/u7jjMI1Et0k?t=200 - I couldn’t manage it with sitting it on its side. Biggest problem was stripping screws, which I finally figured out I was doing by using too small a driver - best advice from my experience is to have good quality tools with a few sizes either side of the drivers specified, and use the largest driver that catches before going too far with it. I had an extra wi fi cable from my new screen (early 2011 screen for a mid 2010 mbp), which just I taped and tucked it in. Was so stoked when I turned it on and it all works beautifully!
important to reassemble the "lower case" successfully: the threads of the seven 3mm phillips screws are drilled at an angle :-/
mysterioes - Réponse
Same issue with me. After reassembling my 13-inch and my 17-inch, one of the screws are sticking out ever so slightly. Very annoying, especially since I scratch whatever surface I'm on now.
Kyle Spadaro -
Very important note; this guide is NOT correct for the Macbook Pro 17" A1297 late '11.
The A1297 has an assembly adjacent to the optical drive, identifiable by 4 antenna connectors, 1 usb cable (with very small connector) and one PCI-e flat cable running across the optical drive.
I did not take pictures, but found one on the web. I'm very new to iFixit and have no idea yet on how to create a guide, but here's the picture showing the assembly on top (this pic only has 3 antenna wires, the A1297 has 4, but at least you'll know what to look for.
- carefully undo all connections and 2 screws
- remove the assembly and flip it over
- again carefully remove the shielding tape
- undo 3 tiny screws
- gently pry the airport card from the assembly (the flat cable will be a bit of a pain)
- reverse process with replacement card.
image can be found here:
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/2446...
Remon - Réponse
It helps if you mark the holes where the long screws go so you can easily find them when the time comes to button things up. Also, a little dish or custard cup to hold those tiny screws is essential.
Human - Réponse
3 x 13.5 mm screws are actually TWO different types! Return to EXACT SAME HOLES.
-I discovered this on my mid-2010, but from comments, sounds like it may affect other models as well
2 x 13.5 mm screws are pointed ends
1 x 13.5 mm screw is a FLAT end <- CORNER HOLE
These areTWO slightly different lengths, and must return to correct holes. If you put the flat end screw in the wrong hole, it will stick out slightly. If you put either of the pointed screws in the wrong hole, they will go in all the way, but will not catch threads, and will simply fall out when laptop is flipped back over.
scottbernardis - Réponse
I printed out the image above and taped each screw to the photo as I removed each one, just to make sure I put them in the right location.
Grace Morris - Réponse
This is a brilliant suggestion! I did this for all the steps that involved removing screws, numbered the sheets, and that made it very easy to put it all back together in reverse. Thanks!
Steve Adamczyk -
Be sure to use Loctite on the screws when re-attaching the bottom of the computer. The screws can and will fall out once they have been removed for repairs if you do not put Loctite on them when you reuse them. Otherwise, purchase new screws before repairing the computer as the new screws come with Loctite material on them. (I have personal experience with this problem.)
johnpartridge - Réponse
Be sure NOT to Buy this Battery from iFixit. I bought it from eustore.ifixit.com and the Condition of Battery is : Service Battery ,
from the &&^&^$^ first day.
Till today my battery Cycle Count is: 80.
I’ve tried everything as: Battery Calibration, resetting the SMC, PRAM, reinstalling the battery,
and Service Battery warning still there.
Just DO NOT BUY crappy, trash from here.
I have very bad experience.
Doruntin Koci - Réponse
Hi Doruntin,
we’re more than sorry to hear about your bad experience.
I’ll inform our customer service team who’ll reach out to you and offer either a replacement or reimbursement.
If ever you’d need assistance again, please feel free to directly write to eustore@ifixit.com, as comments are not regularly checked for service issues.
I’m confident that we’ll find the solution that suits you best!
Sandra Hiller -
PLEASE OBSERVE: The image of the left speaker used is NOT for a 2011 model. A 17inch MacBook Pro A1297 - LEFT SPEAKER + MICROPHONE - 2011 has IDENTIFYING NUMBER: Apple Part #:922-9821, 922-9822. And its COMPATIBILITY: 17 inch MacBook Pro Unibody A1297 - Early 2011 MC725LL/A 2.2 i7 - Early 2011 MC725LL/A 2.3 i7 - Late 2011 MD311LL/A 2.4 i7 - Late 2011 MD311LL/A 2.5 i7
kenneth krabat - Réponse