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Introduction

Apprenez comment remplacer l'écran complet de votre iPhone 6s. Cette pièce est livrée avec la caméra frontale, l'ensemble de capteurs et le blindage EMI déjà pré-installés, ce qui facilite la réparation.

Tout ce que vous avez à faire c'est de retirer l'ancien écran et de transférer le bouton home sur le nouvel écran pour que la Touch ID (numérisation et lecture des empreintes digitales) fonctionne.

Vous pouvez également utiliser ce tutoriel pour remplacer la protection de la nappe du panneau frontal. (protection nappe panneau frontal)

  1. Avant de démonter votre iPhone, déchargez la batterie en dessous de 25%. Une batterie lithium-ion chargée peut prendre feu et / ou exploser si elle est accidentellement percée.
    • Avant de démonter votre iPhone, déchargez la batterie en dessous de 25%. Une batterie lithium-ion chargée peut prendre feu et / ou exploser si elle est accidentellement percée.

    • Éteignez votre iPhone avant de commencer son démontage.

    • Retirez les deux vis Pentalobe P2 de 3,4 mm situées au bord inférieur de l'iPhone, de part et d'autre du connecteur Lightning.

    Hi, just got the repair kit that came with IPhone 6S battery. I felt that there’s no explanation on which tool to use to remove the two 3.4mm P2 Pentalobe screws. It’s not helpful just to say “Remove the two 3.4 mm P2 Pentalobe screws on the bottom edge of the iPhone, next to the Lightning connector. “. It’s more important to explain how and what tool to use. The repair tool kit tools were not marked at all and it’s not right to assume that people know which tool or part to use. Please kindly address this issue. Thanks. Janet

    Janet Monaghen - Réponse

    @beingchen For the P2 pentalobe screws you should use the driver bit marked P2. Might be a little hard to see but it’s there, etched into the side of the bit.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    It’s very clear which tool you need. As it says these are “3.4 mm P2 Pentalobe screws” - so you need a 3.4 mm P2 Pentalobe screwdriver…

    alexanderbrix1987 - Réponse

    Just a P2 driver—3.4 mm is the length of the screw.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    If you can’t identify which screwdriver in the kit to use, you probably shouldn’t be working on your phone. Just sayin’

    Keith Hockenbeck - Réponse

    Is it ok to replace the battery if the phone screen is broken?

    Reem - Réponse

    Of course! As long as the screen and battery are disconnected from the motherboard, you can replace anything!

    Charles Bejarano -

    is it possible to change my battery on my iphone 6s and use a battery that has been already used in another 6s

    morgan durnford - Réponse

    Yeah it would work, but if the battery heath on the 2nd battery is bad, just get a new one.

    Charles Bejarano -

    @moe6802 Removing the battery can damage it, and it shouldn’t be used afterward. It may seem fine, but even minor battery damage can lead to a fire hazard. Not worth it for such a cheap part. If you need a battery, just get a new one.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    How do you discharge a battery? Do you just let the battery drain or is there something less time consuming that you can do?

    Matthew Petts - Réponse

    There is no easy way to discharge the battery in “less time”. Perhaps the fastest way is to play a visually-complex modern game or otherwise make your phone do a lot of work.

    Lance J -

    So my phone screen is completely black causing me to see nothing that is on my screen. And the battery is above 25%, near 100%. What do I do??

    Jessica I - Réponse

    you should post a question on the answers forum

    Max Li -

    you should post a question on the answers forum

    Max Li - Réponse

  2. Si votre écran est fissuré, n'oubliez pas de le sécuriser de manière à éviter d'aggraver la fissure ou de vous blesser durant la réparation. Déposer des bandes de ruban adhésif transparente sur l'écran de l'iPhone en les faisant se chevaucher jusqu'à ce que la surface soit complètement recouverte. Ainsi, les éclats de verre seront fixés et vous pourrez faire levier et retirer tout l'écran.
    • Si votre écran est fissuré, n'oubliez pas de le sécuriser de manière à éviter d'aggraver la fissure ou de vous blesser durant la réparation.

    • Déposer des bandes de ruban adhésif transparente sur l'écran de l'iPhone en les faisant se chevaucher jusqu'à ce que la surface soit complètement recouverte.

    • Ainsi, les éclats de verre seront fixés et vous pourrez faire levier et retirer tout l'écran.

    • Portez des lunettes de protection pour protéger vos yeux de tout éclat de verre non fixé.

    • Si vous avez du mal à retirer la vitre cassée avec une ventouse au cours des prochaines étapes, utilisez un morceau de bande adhésive solide (par exemple du duct tape) plié en deux pour fabriquer une poignée et soulever l'écran.

    In case of broken glass you can make the suction cup much more effective by covering the glass with a broad piece of translucent tape which eliminate air leakage through cracks in the glass.

    lionno1 - Réponse

    Il n’est pas nécessaire de mettre beaucoup de scotch.

    Au contraire plus vous mettez de scotch, plus il y aura de défauts et la ventouse ne collera pas.

    Une bande bien positionnée suffit.

    Chloé Bossuette - Réponse

    I’ve used hot glue on low setting to remove all types of crystals. The hot glue will release with a little iso alcohol. No damage to glass or plastic faced crystals or screens. Use a narrow piece of wood as a prying handle.

    Emilio Gonzalez - Réponse

    I recently had issues with removing the glass with the suction cup. I have done this many times with older generation iPhones but this time the glass seemed sealed on quite solidly. I told myself that the last option would be to use the screwdriver tip. After all my attempts, I transitioned to the option of using the screwdriver tip. Surprisingly, it was the easiest thing ever. I placed the 1mm flathead screwdriver at the interface between the glass and the cover (normal start location) and pried up very gently. Voila, the glass came up and I can’t even notice any dents or scratches. It felt much easier than the suction cup technique. If the suction cup is giving you a hard time consider using that 1mm flathead.

    forhereyesonly - Réponse

  3. Vous pouvez aussi utiliser un iOpener ou un sèche-cheveux pour chauffer très légèrement le bord inférieur de l'iPhone pendant une minute.
    • Vous pouvez aussi utiliser un iOpener ou un sèche-cheveux pour chauffer très légèrement le bord inférieur de l'iPhone pendant une minute.

    • La chaleur permet de ramollir la colle qui fixe l'écran facilitant ainsi l'ouverture.

    What about specifying the hot air temperature?

    Nicola Centrone - Réponse

    The glue softens pretty easily, so the exact temperature isn’t critical. Get it slightly too hot to touch. If you have trouble, heat it a little more and try again.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    What temperature on the screen separator lcd machine and for how long?

    Manraj Gulati - Réponse

  4. L'ouverture de l'écran sur le 6s sépare une mince bande d'adhésif autour du périmètre de l'écran. Si vous préférez remplacer l'adhésif, préparez un ensemble de nouvelles bandes adhésives avant de continuer.
    • L'ouverture de l'écran sur le 6s sépare une mince bande d'adhésif autour du périmètre de l'écran. Si vous préférez remplacer l'adhésif, préparez un ensemble de nouvelles bandes adhésives avant de continuer.

    • Il est possible d'effectuer la réparation sans remplacer l'adhésif, et vous ne remarquerez probablement pas de différence dans les fonctionnalités.

    • Appliquez une ventouse sur le coin inférieur gauche de l´écran.

    • Prenez soin de ne pas placer la ventouse sur le bouton Home.

    Hello, I was wondering if there was a guide of how to replace the adhesive strips, thank you

    Pablo Reyes - Réponse

    The suction cup will not work if you have a shattered screen. I put a tip of an exacto knife between the glass and side frame above the power connector, carefully pried up then used the spluger to pry the rest of the way up.

    johnmurphyjr - Réponse

    Tape will work as well in order to create a smooth surface

    Nick Stine -

    Even tape didn’t work on my first shattered screen 6S disassembly. Had to reset to the exacto/thin blade technique.

    Peter Bovey - Réponse

    For me, it seemed like I only had one shot at the suction cup. It stuck on firmly the first time, but I noticed in the instructions that it was placed more on the side. I detached my suction cup and repositioned it and now it doesn’t stay (sucked) on. Hmmm.

    Frank Terence - Réponse

    Can you use the iSclack opener to open the iPhone 6s?

    Joe Koffee - Réponse

    The iSclack is helpful, although you have to use it a bit differently than you would on, say, a 5s or 6. The iSclack alone isn’t strong enough to pop the display open, because of all the adhesive around the perimeter of the 6s display. But you can use it to lift the display just enough to get a tool in there and start cutting the adhesive. Basically, the iSclack does the same job as the suction cup shown here, with maybe a bit less fuss.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    My screen was SUPER shattered… the hair dryer did the trick. Patience it definitely the key… I tried putting tape over the glass but the suction cup wouldn’t stick to it at all but it stuck to the broken glass for a few seconds. I taped it up when I was finally able to move onto the next steps to keep the glass from getting everywhere then peeled it off for Step 10.

    Mandy Ng - Réponse

    Hi, it looks like, from reading the comments, that separating the display assembly from the phone is a tricky step.

    Would the piece of equipment, in the link below, be any use at this stage? Seems it could be used for all makes and models.

    Any info would be appreciated.

    https://youtu.be/8it4o9tx8tQ

    Michael Magor - Réponse

    I have a screen protector on my phone. I was wondering if it was going to be problem for the suction cup.

    jeffreyleung2002 - Réponse

    I can only suggest to use a hair dryer to loosen up the adhesive underneath the display. Mine was stuck so hard it wouldn't barely move. After warming ist up I could softly pull ist up with way less power

    olonetzky - Réponse

    A question, has anyone had success removing a cracked (not shattered) screen? My phone has a single diagonal crack from the top right corner down to the left side. Will the suction cup still work?

    goblazers - Réponse

  5. Tirez sur la ventouse avec une pression ferme et constante pour ouvrir un léger espace entre le panneau avant et le boîtier arrière. Prenez votre temps et appliquez une force ferme et constante. L'écran complet a un ajustement beaucoup plus serré que la plupart des appareils et est maintenu enfoncé à l´aide d´un adhésif.
    • Tirez sur la ventouse avec une pression ferme et constante pour ouvrir un léger espace entre le panneau avant et le boîtier arrière.

    • Prenez votre temps et appliquez une force ferme et constante. L'écran complet a un ajustement beaucoup plus serré que la plupart des appareils et est maintenu enfoncé à l´aide d´un adhésif.

    • Tirer trop fort peut endommager l'écran. Appliquez juste assez de pression pour créer un petit espace entre l'écran et le boîtier arrière.

    • Si vous avez des difficultés faites chauffer l'avant de l'iPhone à l'aide d'un iOpener, d'un sèche-cheveux ou d'un pistolet à air chaud, jusqu'à ce qu'il soit légèrement trop chaud au toucher. Ceci permet de ramollir la colle qui fixe les bords de l'écran.

    No, really. Do this on a table and use less strength than you think. If you open the display the whole way at this step you can easily rip the home button connections and one of several display connections at the top. <— too much experience... :(

    chuymatt - Réponse

    Wow, that was tough. Patience, patience, patience. Did not use the iOpener, just firm and consistent pulling with the phone on a flat surface. When the suction cup comes off... clean the display surface and go back at it. I did use the pointed end of a spudger inserted into the headphone jack to hold down the bottom case whilst I pulled on the suction cup. Once there was sufficient room (see next step) you can just get the spudger (flat end) to slide in slightly.

    plisi - Réponse

    If you're lifting up on the glass, how are you supposed to hold the rest of the phone down? Is it by holding the camera end down with the side of your hand and rotating your hand, or using your other hand (not pictured) on the edges (seems very difficult), or using a spudger in a jack?

    Bryan - Réponse

    I got a fingernail on the metal edge and that did the trick.

    David Heinbach -

    On the 6s, which has an annoying black adhesive strip holding the display assembly on, I use the iSclack to loosen a very small area near the home button then insert a thin spudger and gently twist it a bit to release the adhesive. Do this around the bottom and both sides of the phone to release the screen. I usually have to break some of the adhesive strands when the opening is big enough.

    scentaur - Réponse

    My spudgers just too thick for initial insertion. In the end, fingernail on my thumb got me started, and I was able to get plastic picks in there to work it. The microwavable iOpener gel strip really helped.

    Heidi Moser - Réponse

    Thanks plisi, your comments are helpful. I had to apply pressure several different times. Didnt realize until about the seventh time applying pressure that what I was doing was slowly loosening the adhesive. Patience is truly the key with this step. You may not think you're progressing but it's slowly prying away.

    amylofton - Réponse

    What happens if the cup won't even stick to the display because it is cracked and it will not hold air near the bottom of the phone?

    Jaredrett - Réponse

    hey everyone, i just did my first iphone 6S display...after many 5, 5c, and 5s iphones...just keep trying and carefully insert the spunger where they said...right around the headphone jack. The black adhesive makes it very tough to get it off unless you work at one corner. Be careful...but you can do it! ;-)

    David Althaus - Réponse

    Use a razor, and go along the outside of the phone carevilly using the razor as a spudger. it will efficiently cut and weaken the adhesive while spudging the screen away from the frame. only takes 15 mins.... Use a workbench razor, not a flimsy one. If possible, use one where one side of the razor has a gaurd on it for better grip. Take it slow and try not to scratch the frame. Lots of pressure and patience is key!!!

    Goodluck!!

    -J

    Jaredrett - Réponse

    The first time you pull it apart there's black glue tape that you'll have to compete with to get it open. Be careful

    Jeff - Réponse

    Use a hairdryer about 2-3 inches from the phone on high heat for about a minute, moving the dryer the entire time. The phone opened for me in less than a minute after trying for several minutes without heating up the phone.

    Todd Leach - Réponse

    Careful ..delicate work. I also used a hot hair dryer around the perimeter for just a couple minutes to help loosen the adhesive bond. I then used my sadly short finger nail to help loosen the edge. I placed dental floss under the corner & carefully lifted the display very very slowly. This worked within about 3 minutes. As mentioned earlier the adhesive used in the iPhone 6s is very strong but this routine worked like a charm & was quick!

    Mary Blocher - Réponse

    Much easier to do using the Spudger that is provided in the Pro Tool Kit. It has a thinner fin type head. The Spudger provided in this repair kit is definitely too thick and makes it far more difficult.

    Tyler Brady - Réponse

    The spudger is too thick and the glue is too strong. Pulling up broke the glass below the power button. Now I am out $200 for a repair, plus a battery. Bummer. I am VERY good at repairing things. The adhesive on this is very very strong. The pentalobe tip that they send with the kits not milled well and I had to take a file and flatten the tip to get it to work - it is not finished well at all. I used the kit for the iPhone 6 for my Mom and had no problem. I am 51 and have been fixing things since I was very young.

    greghabiby - Réponse

    Well, I shattered my screen trying to do this. So now I need a battery and screen repair. Not happy.

    Carolann Parran - Réponse

    Me too! Be gentle!

    Matthew Simoenau -

    Removing the display was the hardest part of the whole job. The adhesive is very strong, but just be patient. What I ended up doing was to use the suction cup, the flat end of the spudger, and an iFixit opening tool. I used the suction cup on the screen as directed. Then I placed the flat end of the spudger just a bit into the charging port and held down the phone body by the spudger on my work mat. I pulled up on the suction cup, pushed down on the spudger, and inserted the thin iFixit opening tool in the small seperation. I took my time and worked my way around all of the edges. After that it was really easy. I was able to reuse the adhesive, and my new battery install went just as planned.

    Eric Olson - Réponse

    Use a hair dryer as per the suggestions and this will definitely make the job easier and reducing the risk of breaking the display . Keep a steady pull of the display, don’t rush and it will start to show the small separation gap. An issue is that it will go back in place if you stop pulling before you can use the spudger tool. The suction tool that came with my repair kit did not have a ring on it as per the guide picture. It has a blue handle that is open on the side. I sat at my kitchen desk and opened a drawer. I hooked the open edge of the suction handle around the drawer side edge which me a third hand. I held the phone with one hand and pulled it away from the desk drawer. Once the separation started I could use my other hand with the flat edge of the spudger to complete the separation. Hope this helps.

    emaneht - Réponse

    Hair dryer - 1 minute until it’s hot like a fresh mug of coffee. Then as soon as you see the smallest gap, insert a razor blade above the phones jack, I needed to slide it towards the charge port and back. Once it slips in keep it there and use your spudger to enlarge the gap and slide it along the corners.

    Steve Esson - Réponse

    Yes, I used the tip of a sharp knife as a pry tool to get me started. Since the screen was cracked anyway I figured I had nothing to lose. It went fine.

    David Heinbach -

    Also tried it with the hair dryer - worked like a charm. 5 Minutes and the phone was open. The whole repair procedure took me about 45 minutes, and was ok. Re-assembling the three display-connectors has been a bit tricky, but with careful movements and taking the time it needs it was not a big problem. New display is very good, phone looks like new :-)

    Christian Woelk - Réponse

  6. Il y a une encoche sur la face inférieure de l'écran, juste au-dessus de la prise de casque. Ceci est l'endroit le plus sûr pour commencer à ouvrir le téléphone. Placez l'extrémité plate d'un spudger dans l'espace entre l'écran et le boîtier arrière directement au-dessus de la prise casque.
    • Il y a une encoche sur la face inférieure de l'écran, juste au-dessus de la prise de casque. Ceci est l'endroit le plus sûr pour commencer à ouvrir le téléphone.

    • Placez l'extrémité plate d'un spudger dans l'espace entre l'écran et le boîtier arrière directement au-dessus de la prise casque.

    WARNING: easy to stretch/ruin the adhesive

    As you proceed, know that you must keep ALL of the adhesive stuck to the phone. If any stays stuck to display, it can become permanently stretched as you are prying and lifting. Then you’ll need to buy the replacement adhesive, once it’s back in stock!

    Jason - Réponse

    If you’re opening the phone at all, you’re compromising the adhesive. There is absolutely no way to somehow open it perfectly so you can re-use it. Fortunately, it’s cheap and fairly easy to replace—and not even that critical on the 6s series anyway, since it’s not doing any real waterproofing.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    I had a badly cracked screen. Packing tape helped the suction cup stick. Heating the phone helped soften the adhesive, and in the end I pried the screen up at the headphone jack with a sharp pointy knife. That helped me get the spudger underneath. Not recommended if the screen is ok, like for a battery replacement, but mine was cracked so I figured I had nothing to lose. Great guide.

    David Heinbach - Réponse

    There are two relatively delicate brackets that the two P2 Pentalobe screws screw into. They can be easily bent during this prying open process. I ruined one on my phone and I’m hoping the phone will function with just one bracket.

    dougdalglish - Réponse

  7. Tournez le spudger pour accroître l'écart entre  le panneau frontal complet et le reste du téléphone. Tournez le spudger pour accroître l'écart entre  le panneau frontal complet et le reste du téléphone.
    • Tournez le spudger pour accroître l'écart entre le panneau frontal complet et le reste du téléphone.

    No need to turn the spudger full 90°. Just turn it a little.

    Martin Born - Réponse

  8. Insérez l'extrémité plate du spudger sur le côté gauche du téléphone entre l'écran et le boîtier arrière. Faites glisser le spudger sur le côté du téléphone pour séparer l'adhésif et faire sauter les clips.
    • Insérez l'extrémité plate du spudger sur le côté gauche du téléphone entre l'écran et le boîtier arrière.

    • Faites glisser le spudger sur le côté du téléphone pour séparer l'adhésif et faire sauter les clips.

    I’ve found it very easy to open the phone with one of the blue opening picks.

    Just slide it along the left and right side of the display.

    Martin Born - Réponse

    Excellent idea. No matter which tool you use take your time so not to damage the display assembly further. Even a cracked screen is a great test tool or spare to use while doing other repairs when it still comes on.

    Bryan Solo -

    Do not go into the top left corner too far your screen will crack i learned the hard way

    Kevin - Réponse

  9. Retirez le spudger et le réinserrez-le sur le bord inférieur où vous avez ouvert le téléphone. Faites glisser le spudger vers la droite, le long du bord inférieur du téléphone.
    • Retirez le spudger et le réinserrez-le sur le bord inférieur où vous avez ouvert le téléphone.

    • Faites glisser le spudger vers la droite, le long du bord inférieur du téléphone.

  10. Faites glisser le spudger sur le côté droit afin de continuer à séparer l'adhésif et faire sauter les clips de l'écran de l'iPhone. Faites glisser le spudger sur le côté droit afin de continuer à séparer l'adhésif et faire sauter les clips de l'écran de l'iPhone.
    • Faites glisser le spudger sur le côté droit afin de continuer à séparer l'adhésif et faire sauter les clips de l'écran de l'iPhone.

  11. Fix Kits pour iPhone X

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    Fix Kits pour iPhone X

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  12. Utilisez la ventouse pour ouvrir l'écran, tout en rompant le dernier adhésif. Ne pas ouvrir l'écran à plus de 90º car il est toujours connecté en haut par trois câbles qui peuvent se briser s'ils sont étirés.
    • Utilisez la ventouse pour ouvrir l'écran, tout en rompant le dernier adhésif.

    • Ne pas ouvrir l'écran à plus de 90º car il est toujours connecté en haut par trois câbles qui peuvent se briser s'ils sont étirés.

    Prop it up on something

    Nick Stine - Réponse

    an old iPhone box and a rubber band lightly around the display works great to hold it at 90

    Christa - Réponse

  13. Tirez sur la petite surélévation en plastique sur le côté de la ventouse pour la retirer du panneau frontal. Tirez sur la petite surélévation en plastique sur le côté de la ventouse pour la retirer du panneau frontal.
    • Tirez sur la petite surélévation en plastique sur le côté de la ventouse pour la retirer du panneau frontal.

  14. Saisissez doucement l´écran et soulevez-le pour ouvrir le téléphone, en utilisant les clips en haut de la face avant comme une charnière. Ouvrez l'écran à environ 90 ° et le posez-le contre quelque chose pour le garder calé pendant que vous travaillez sur le téléphone. Ajoutez une bande de caoutchouc pour maintenir l'écran bien en place pendant que vous travaillez. Cela évite une pression excessive sur les câbles de l´écran.
    • Saisissez doucement l´écran et soulevez-le pour ouvrir le téléphone, en utilisant les clips en haut de la face avant comme une charnière.

    • Ouvrez l'écran à environ 90 ° et le posez-le contre quelque chose pour le garder calé pendant que vous travaillez sur le téléphone.

    • Ajoutez une bande de caoutchouc pour maintenir l'écran bien en place pendant que vous travaillez. Cela évite une pression excessive sur les câbles de l´écran.

    • À la limite, vous pouvez utiliser une canette de boisson fermé pour maintenir l'écran.

    Smart idea :)

    x226 - Réponse

    on the third picture, the screen is opened more than 90 degrees.

    Mirza Zohaib - Réponse

    It said about 90 degrees

    Nick Stine -

    In the second picture I was originally wondering what that diagonal piece of material was. Now that I've done a repair I can say that it's the sticky adhesive around the edge of the phone lifting up with the screen.

    jonl - Réponse

  15. Retirez les deux vis cruciformes maintenant la fixation du connecteur de batterie :
    • Retirez les deux vis cruciformes maintenant la fixation du connecteur de batterie :

    • Une vis de 2,9 mm

    • Une vis de 2,2 mm

    In order to put the correct screw back where you took it out mark the head surface and a small dot beside the hole with a pen. Use coloured pens if you want the exact location for each screw/hole. This goes for steps 17, (23) and 29 too.

    lionno1 - Réponse

    Please! Please! Please! Invest in a Magnetic Project Mat or its equivalent from fixit. It will assist you with completing your repair.

    Ian Baldwin - Réponse

    I just taped down a 8.5 x 11 white piece of paper on my desk and drew a rough image of it, then ‘taped’ the screw I removed to the “image” on paper. It worked just fine. (My first time ever opening an iphone, so give it a shot!)

    italianchick99 - Réponse

    If you missed it from the beginning (like I did) it’s the #000 Philips for all screws except the Pentalobes.

    Max Cox - Réponse

    if you get a plastic ice cube tray, and a fine marker pen, text the sizes on each cube compartment as you follow the guide, also stops the screws getting lost

    Brendan Cranny - Réponse

  16. Retirez la fixation du connecteur de batterie de l'iPhone. Retirez la fixation du connecteur de batterie de l'iPhone.
    • Retirez la fixation du connecteur de batterie de l'iPhone.

  17. Utilisez la pointe d'une spatule (spudger) pour déconnecter le connecteur de batterie de la carte mère en faisant levier. Utilisez la pointe d'une spatule (spudger) pour déconnecter le connecteur de batterie de la carte mère en faisant levier. Utilisez la pointe d'une spatule (spudger) pour déconnecter le connecteur de batterie de la carte mère en faisant levier.
    • Utilisez la pointe d'une spatule (spudger) pour déconnecter le connecteur de batterie de la carte mère en faisant levier.

    Be sure not to skip this step. It is crucial. I have had many repairs where the screen will not light up after the repair if the battery had not been disconnected and reconnected.

    Andrew spoelstra - Réponse

    Thanks for the tip, Andrew.

    William Turner -

    It should also be mentioned, DO NOT USE A METAL SPUDGER. You could short the battery to other nearby metal parts. I've done that, the battery clip arced to the metal cover on some of the logic board chips, and my phone wouldn't power back on for 3 days. They should put a caution caption on this step. I've had this happen on a 5S as well.

    Frank - Réponse

    Thanks for the tip, Frank.

    William Turner -

    SERIOUS WARNING!: During *reassembly*, you should NOT reconnect the battery connector until the VERY LAST step (upon reassembly!), as many people, including myself, apparently have smoked (burned, destroyed) the main Logic board. This happens when you reconnect the LCD/digitizer assembly FPC cable. ifixit should modify this instruction to be very explicit about this!

    enoughstatic - Réponse

  18. Eloignez le connecteur de batterie de la carte mère afin qu'il reste séparé de sa prise, pour éviter toute connexion accidentelle à la batterie lors de la réparation. Eloignez le connecteur de batterie de la carte mère afin qu'il reste séparé de sa prise, pour éviter toute connexion accidentelle à la batterie lors de la réparation.
    • Eloignez le connecteur de batterie de la carte mère afin qu'il reste séparé de sa prise, pour éviter toute connexion accidentelle à la batterie lors de la réparation.

    If you remove the grey bar with the word “TAPTIC” next, removal of the battery adhesive is much easier. It can be pulled straighter back with less chance of tearing. Here’s an image with the securing screws identified.

    If you securely anchor the screen to a can of soup, it is not necessary complete step 16 Front Panel Assembly. I was able to remove the two bottom (1.2 mm) screws and the 2.8 mm screw, but could not get the upper (1.2 mm) screw. I was able to remove the old battery with the Front Panel Assembly left in place.

    Edward Dziuk - Réponse

    Amazing tip Edward, I followed your tip exactly and agree to definitely remove the “TAPTIC”

    italianchick99 -

    Hi what it is called black cover between battery connector and sim card tray? Thanks

    Rajendra - Réponse

  19. Retirez les quatre vis cruciformes suivantes fixant le support de la nappe d'écran :
    • Retirez les quatre vis cruciformes suivantes fixant le support de la nappe d'écran :

    • Trois vis de 1,2 mm

    • Une vis de 2,8 mm

    Thank you for this great guide!

    I was able to skip removing the display assembly and logic board steps and lay the speaker upside down on the bottom edge of the logic board without putting undue pressure on the antenna cable making this a much easier and quicker repair for me. If you choose to leave the display assembly connected, I recommend using a rubber band to hold it to a box of similar size at a 90 degree angle to prevent damage and stress to the attached cables.

    So, the steps I skipped were Steps 16 through 34 and Steps 37 through 45.

    scentaur - Réponse

    The 1.2mm screw in the top left corner is refusing to come out, any help?

    Harry Allinson - Réponse

    I’m also having this issue now, what did you do to get the screw out?

    Belmin Husanovic -

    why does the battery fix kit not include the #00 bit needed to unscrew all 3 1.2mm screws?!?! !#^&@@ off.

    robertdjclark - Réponse

    Either a #00 or a #000 bit should work fine here. Some #0 bits will also work if the point is fine enough. Same goes for a lot of JIS bits. As long as it doesn't strip or slip, you're good.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    My kit's screwdriver failed about the time I got to the last few steps in this tutorial. I had a cheap precision set with a #000 bit but that refused to seat in the screws. I went to Home Depot, bought a lifetime guarantee Husky precision set with #0000 through #0 bits and that worked beautifully on every screw.

    David Shaddock - Réponse

    The screwdriver in my kit doesn't remove the bottom two screws! any reason why?

    anujfolsom - Réponse

    I actually followed all the guide but isn’t the front panel disassembly skippable? And if so what are the benefits of removing it? Cause i had quite a hard time putting back in the connectors of the 3 flex cables.

    GiovanniB - Réponse

    I have the 6s from Dubai. the top left screw is different with the rest. I am stuck on this screw. i am clue less why this top left + screw.

    Anyone have the same issue?

    Evander Lorenz - Réponse

    A precision screwdriver set is a wise investment for doing any of this work. I got a set from iFixit that is very well machined. Don’t expect the cheap drivers with kits to last more than one disassembly-assembly, if that! Also don’t keep mangled bits or drivers…throw them out!!!

    Peter Bovey - Réponse

    what crews  should I use in this step PH000. OR Y000 OR P2 Plz help me

    mshary alzhrany - Réponse

    The kit provided with the replacement Battery of iPhone 6s does not include the right bits to remove the three 1,2mm screws! I had to remove it without removing the display.

    Matthias Wagner - Réponse

    I too experienced a problem with the size of the screwdriver here (supplied in the iFixit kit.) My phone also had a 5th screw right in the center of the plate - another 1.2mm. I removed and replace it without problems.

    Scott Young - Réponse

    @scottvyoung Sounds like you’re working on an iPhone 6. These instructions are for the 6s.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    Screws are very small and very difficult to put back in!! Lost 2-3 screws

    Put phone back together and of course doesnt work Waste of Money!

    Thomas Kintigh - Réponse

    I purchased a “screw set” for an i-Phone 5 and have slowly been cannibalizing it whenever I lose a screw. It has been invaluable and the set includes enough screws that I have been able to cover all that have been dropped and lost for 3 i-Phones now. Using a magnetic mat has also limited my screw loss considerably! All of these items were purchased through IFIXIT at very reasonable cost. Thank you IFIXIT!

    Peter Bovey -

    The ifixit kit supplied screwdriver for the display cable bracket did NOT fit. (disappointing) So, I used scentar’s (comment above) method of a large rubber band wrapped around a book weighted kit box to hold it at 90 degrees. Leaving the screen attached and then removing and replacing the battery.

    laffinbuz - Réponse

    I had a problem reassembling the iPhone, my touchId wasn’t working any more even if the home button was working correctly. I don’t know why but loosening these 4 screw a bit made it work again. If I tight them again it doesn’t work. Maybe this can help someone.

    Alex Mufatti - Réponse

    @alexmufatti I had the same exact issue and luckily came across the same solution by trial and error. However a few weeks later Touch ID suddenly stopped working again and I think it’s the same issue. I was hoping somebody came across a more permanent solution.

    Michel Chemas -

    I was nervous not following this guide step-by-step, but as others mentioned I did not have the correct ‘bit’ size to remove the 3 screws circled in ‘red’ in the above diagram. I skipped steps 17, 18, 19 BUT used the ‘tip’ in step 11 to prop the front screen without removing the front display completely and I was still able to replace battery.

    italianchick99 - Réponse

    how to measure the screw? from the head or from under the head?

    Balieltello - Réponse

  20. Retirez le support de la nappe d'écran. Retirez le support de la nappe d'écran.
    • Retirez le support de la nappe d'écran.

  21. Utilisez une spatule (spudger) ou un ongle propre pour déconnecter le câble plat flexible de la caméra frontale de sa prise sur la carte mère en faisant levier. Utilisez une spatule (spudger) ou un ongle propre pour déconnecter le câble plat flexible de la caméra frontale de sa prise sur la carte mère en faisant levier.
    • Utilisez une spatule (spudger) ou un ongle propre pour déconnecter le câble plat flexible de la caméra frontale de sa prise sur la carte mère en faisant levier.

    Note carefully the order that they are removed.  My new display had them in the WRONG order and I spent about 2 minutes trying to figure out what was wrong until I compared the new screen with the old screen and saw that they were in wrong sequence.  Fortunately they were relatively easy to fold out of the way and put them in the right order.  After that they popped right into place.  The new cables don’t have the “fold” yet so display had to be held at 90 degrees until all three were installed and the cover reattached.

    David Rogers - Réponse

    I pop up these screen connectors using my fingernail. After doing a lot of repairs, this is the easiest and fastest way to get them loose.

    Kenneth Hilstan - Réponse

    pad under earspeaker is lost, where to buy?

    Balieltello - Réponse

  22. Déconnectez la nappe du tactile de sa prise sur la carte mère en faisant levier. Lorsque vous reconnectez la nappe du tactile, n'appuyez pas sur le milieu du connecteur. Appuyez sur un côté du connecteur, puis sur l'autre. Appuyer au milieu risque de tordre le composant et d'endommager le tactile.
    • Déconnectez la nappe du tactile de sa prise sur la carte mère en faisant levier.

    • Lorsque vous reconnectez la nappe du tactile, n'appuyez pas sur le milieu du connecteur. Appuyez sur un côté du connecteur, puis sur l'autre. Appuyer au milieu risque de tordre le composant et d'endommager le tactile.

    I can't seem to get the digitizer cable to snap back into place. Any suggestions?

    gbmazur - Réponse

    Yes--if you, like me, could not get the digitizer connector to seat, you've probably got confused on the reassembly order. I had to remove the EMI shield (seven screws), and reinstall it ON TOP of the big flap tongue that comes with the new digitizer, rearranging the order of the connector tails. Note that one of the connectors is a bit shorter than the other, and one of the receptacles on the iPhone is shorter as well. Make sure you're laying down the tails and connectors in the right order when you reassemble! The display data cable--sideways to the others, toward the outer edge, goes first. Then the longer connector, and finally the shorter one. When they're seated, they're seated, and you'll be sure of it.

    David Shaddock - Réponse

    Patience. I had trouble but after some time got it back in. Didn’t have to rearrange anything like above ^. Maybe the design was changed.

    Cbirdsey - Réponse

  23. Avant d'effectuer cette étape, vérifiez que la batterie est déconnectée, puis déconnectez ou reconnectez la nappe. Déconnectez la nappe des données d'écran de sa prise sur la carte mère en faisant levier.
    • Avant d'effectuer cette étape, vérifiez que la batterie est déconnectée, puis déconnectez ou reconnectez la nappe.

    • Déconnectez la nappe des données d'écran de sa prise sur la carte mère en faisant levier.

    I notice there are 3 flex cables, does this disassembly guide apply to the verizon version of iPhone 6s? I don't want to order the wrong digitizer screen for my new and improved iPhone that i somehow managed to crack the screen on.

    Bailey Duncan - Réponse

    There are four cables to disconnect here to complete this process, at least on my phone. The replacement screen also had 4, so no problem.

    Scott Young - Réponse

    I am having a hard time reattaching the LCD cable. Is it possible I bent the connectors? Or possibly the gaskets around it are interfering? I’d like to just pull all of that waterproofing gasket off! >:(

    Amanda Cooper (Doula) - Réponse

    Did you end up going this? My screen is black so I'm trying to figure out what i did

    Alex Tanner -

    I neglected to detach the battery before taking this step and upon reassembly I have no display. What might be my next step to repair.

    Dennis Gagomiros - Réponse

    You can try reseating the cables, but the likely answer is that your logic board’s backlight circuit is blown. If you power on your phone and you can see an image on the display by shining a bright light on it, your backlight circuit is toast. This is a common repair and very fixable, but requires microsoldering equipment and expertise. It’s not a DIY.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    I made the same mistake and I'm wondering if you got a fix for it? Is the damage done on the screen assembly or phone itself?

    goesprotocall -

    My screen replacement only comes with two flex cables but all of the videos are showing three. It is not working to connect the flex cables to the connectors

    cellabella1 - Réponse

    The third flex cable would be for the front-facing camera, sensors, etc. If you bought a display that doesn’t include those components, you’ll need to transfer them to your new display first, and then you’ll be able to install it and plug everything in. The instructions are over here. Good luck!

    Jeff Suovanen -

  24. Retirez l'écran complet.

    If you're replacing the adhesive, be sure to check the two tabs on the display that receive the pentalobe screws before setting the display on the new adhesive. The tabs on my display were bent inward slightly—just out of reach of the pentalobe screws. I didn't bend these out before setting the display and was forced to re-open the display to adjust them, ruining my carefully placed adhesive.

    cdinger - Réponse

    There is no need to remove camera or the logic board if all you want to do is replace the lightning assembly. Leaving things in place will save you a number of steps. Proceed directly to Step 35 and save yourself all this work.

    Ira Goldman - Réponse

    Also read comments on step 37 as others have also pointed out that there is no need to pull logic board and you can skip those steps mentioned.

    Ira Goldman - Réponse

    Unless you are replacing the speaker you can skip to step 34 as there is no need to remove the logic board.

    Bryan Solo - Réponse

    My replacement display was not functional, but I didn’t test it until after my adhesive was already applied. Might be worth double-checking the replacement screen works before applying the adhesive at all. (though I’m glad I tried it before closing it up!)

    Ben - Réponse

    When reconnecting to the logic board, reverse the order, so display first, then digitizer and finally camera. The front pannel slides into small edge of the backchannel. So start at the top when you put front and back together.

    Joep Willemsen - Réponse

    be sure battery is disconnected before reassembling the display —in case you reconnected it to position battery

    Christa - Réponse

  25. Retirez les trois vis cruciformes de 1,7 mm fixant le support du bouton home.
    • Retirez les trois vis cruciformes de 1,7 mm fixant le support du bouton home.

    • Ne serrez pas trop ces vis car elles peuvent endommager l'avant de l'écran.

    When reinstalling, I had to experiment with how tightly to turn the screws, I first turned them all the way in but the home button wouldn't 'click' at all then, so I loosened the left most screw a touch and now it clicks and feel perfect. Not sure which screw is technically the best to adjust.

    amadscientist - Réponse

    When reinstalling the screws be careful not to over tighten and strip the holes.

    John Livingston - Réponse

    INCOMPLETA

    Manca tutta la parte che riguarda l’auricolare (altparlante o earpiece) che porta con se il rivelatore di prossimità e il microfono ambientale. Manca la descrizione delle plastiche da recuperare per essere riportate sul nuovo display. Manca la parte di separazione del touch controller dl backframe metallico (anch’esso da svitare e non menzionato in questo articolo…)

    Insomma un tutorial incompleto e anche inutile, a mio avviso.

    Mario Di Stefano - Réponse

    When i assembled my new homebutton, I couldn’t mange to make it work properly. The screws, as described earlier, had to be adjusted but even this wasn’t enough. Once I put the iPhone case together and tightened up the screws it would push the metal cover all the way so the button wouldn’t click. After trying multiple screw settings I came to a somewhat unorthodox solution. I placed a piece of folded paper under the left corner of the metal cover. Now it wouldn`t press the button anymore and the paper keeps everything in place until fully reassembled.

    max - Réponse

  26. Soulevez le bord inférieur du support du bouton home jusqu'à ce qu'il s'enlève du petit piquet sur le côté droit. Faites glisser le support d'en dessous du blindage électromagnétique (EMI) pour le retirer. Faites glisser le support d'en dessous du blindage électromagnétique (EMI) pour le retirer.
    • Soulevez le bord inférieur du support du bouton home jusqu'à ce qu'il s'enlève du petit piquet sur le côté droit.

    • Faites glisser le support d'en dessous du blindage électromagnétique (EMI) pour le retirer.

    You have to lift it just a bit over the grey plastic knob on the left side.

    Martin Born - Réponse

  27. A l'aide d'une spatule (spudger), déconnectez le connecteur du bouton home en le faisant sortir de sa prise sur l'arrière du panneau d'écran. A l'aide d'une spatule (spudger), déconnectez le connecteur du bouton home en le faisant sortir de sa prise sur l'arrière du panneau d'écran.
    • A l'aide d'une spatule (spudger), déconnectez le connecteur du bouton home en le faisant sortir de sa prise sur l'arrière du panneau d'écran.

    Make sure you're not heating it before you've popped the connector from its socket or else the socket might come loose.

    Sam Decrock - Réponse

    You may need to use 2 picks/spudgers to do this as I have found that the socket and connector do not disconnect so easily. Place 1 on the socket and use the other to disconnect the connector.

    Bryan Solo - Réponse

    Thanks, Bryan this helped a lot.

    Antonio Gomez -

    When I did this step, the home button connecter tore right off at the bend in the thin ribbon. Not sure how - I got through other somewhat delicate steps in this project without damaging anything.

    Anyway, phone won’t even power up now (I put it back together hoping that I could navigate around the interface somehow without home button).

    New home button assembly on order from iFixit.

    John Matz - Réponse

  28. Appuyez doucement sur le bouton home par le côté avant de l'écran, pour séparer doucement le joint du bouton home et le panneau frontal. Le joint est très mince et se déchire facilement. Appliquez une pression constante et donnez-lui de temps de se séparer.
    • Appuyez doucement sur le bouton home par le côté avant de l'écran, pour séparer doucement le joint du bouton home et le panneau frontal.

    • Le joint est très mince et se déchire facilement. Appliquez une pression constante et donnez-lui de temps de se séparer.

    What happens if the gasket ends up as toast? I had to re-assemble without and hope for the best.

    Todd Strack - Réponse

    I think its main function is to keep moisture and dust out. Short-term probably nothing bad will happen; long-term, I’d guess you might have higher risk of contamination or corrosion on internal components.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    The video shows the the tech heating the bottom at this so it releases easier. I heated mine with a hair dryer. Came off fine.

    Patrick Egan - Réponse

    Also remember to check the front and make sure any tape you applied is not covering the button. Doh!

    Steve Esson - Réponse

    I also used the pointed spludger to gently pry up the rubber gasket after heating the backside with a hairdryer

    robert langley - Réponse

  29. Utilisez la pointe d'une spatule (spudger) pour enlever le câble plat du bouton home de l'arrière du panneau d'écran. Utilisez la pointe d'une spatule (spudger) pour enlever le câble plat du bouton home de l'arrière du panneau d'écran.
    • Utilisez la pointe d'une spatule (spudger) pour enlever le câble plat du bouton home de l'arrière du panneau d'écran.

  30. Retirez le bouton home avec nappe. Retirez le bouton home avec nappe.
    • Retirez le bouton home avec nappe.

    If you’re purchasing a replacement front panel part from ifixit, you can stop here. The remaining steps remove parts that are included with the replacement assembly.

    John Livingston - Réponse

  31. Il ne reste plus que l'écran.
    • Il ne reste plus que l'écran.

    Thank you for a thorough and complete guide. The different views of each step helped tremendously. My daughter appreciates it as well, because that means I didn't have to deprive her of her phone for too long.!

    Todd Chafin - Réponse

    On reassembly two very important things...1 - remember to remove the blue/green protective plastic cover from the back of the new screen before putting it back together. You will notice the tab sticking off to the right side of the screen near the volume buttons. 2- take special note of how the two tabs sticking out at the bottom of your replacement screen on either side of your home button. They should be close to vertical or perpendicular to the screen face or they won't be close enough to start the pentalobe screw when finishing the reassembly. Tried to post picture but couldn't figure out how to. You can do this! ;-)

    David Althaus - Réponse

    also dont forget to remove the front camera, some digitizer kits donty include them

    Thomas Judd - Réponse

    Install the new adhesive seal (the one you peeled off in step 3) before you install the new screen. I forgot and it was tricky to line up with with all the connectors in place.

    Jim Wong - Réponse

    Yes, REALLY don’t forget, when you’re done with the home button removal to THEN also remove the front camera. For this, please follow this tutorial: Remplacement de l'ensemble caméra frontale et capteur de l'iPhone 6s

    samuel hugli - Réponse

    I've replaced the screen on a friend's 6S but now it'll only turn on by booting/ rebooting - it won't turn on from standby using the power button/ for incoming calls. I've updated to the latest version of iOS but the issue is persisting. In difference to the guide, I also had to move the camera assembly from the old screen. Has anyone had a similar issue?

    Kevin Rennie - Réponse

    I recently replaced the whole casing of the iPhone 6s and afterwards, I just wanted to put the screen back in and then one of the three connectors on the logic board broke. So my iPhone 6s looks brand new, but don’t works anymore. Very Nice….

    Completely Failed

    Moritz Holzleitner - Réponse

    This is the third screen I have replaced. This one on an iPhone 6S. I always lose a screw! however, it was only one of 4 holding a cover plate on. Replaced new home button with old one. touch id works great. Daughter very happy!

    huttmayo - Réponse

Conclusion

Pour remonter votre appareil, suivez ces instructions dans l'ordre inverse.

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Jeff Suovanen

Membre depuis le 06/08/2013

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Muito bom. Já aprendi muito consultando os tutoriais da IFIXIT. Parabéns.

Eder Macario - Réponse

Solution worked very well - a couple of comments: 1. With a cracked screen the suction cup doesn't hold very well, I was nevertheless able to get the screen corner off with some heavy prying above the headphone jack as suggested in step 4. 2. In the replacement part I received, the order of the digitizer and camera cables was reversed, I had to tuck the digitizer cable back under the camera cable to get them down in the correct order. Great pictures and guide from ifixit.

stread777 - Réponse

Agree with both points. The guide is also missing steps (or mention of) moving the camera/sensor/etc to the new digitizer. I didn't think about it until I wondered why the old screen had 3 cables and the new one only had 2.

nerdatheart -

Thanks for the tip, I had the same issue with the suction cup not working on the cracked screen. Applying clear packaging tape over the screen helped but it still didn't come apart. Ended up using a blow dryer on the highest setting to help melt the adhesive around the bottom of the phone (being careful to not let it heat up too long) which eventually made it possible to wedge the spudge inside.

The guide and photos were great along with the replacement part from iFixit. Probably the easiest screen replacement I've done so far.

gotchay -

Try putting packing tape in the center of the screen. This will keep the glass chunks in and the suction cup will stick to it.

Michael St. Hilaire -

I jus replaced the display of my iPhone everything works correctly except for the light sensor, the auto brightness setting is now useless, everything else (camera, speaker, and such) works just fine. Any ideas why?

Enrique Gutierrez - Réponse

You may have not properly seated the proximity sensor, check to assure all plastic label stickers have been removed from the from and that it is properly seated. If it is damaged you will have to purchase a new flex.

Alec -

you may have bent the ribbon cable on accident, those parts are very inexpensive and easy to replace.

Michael St. Hilaire -

Stread777 I found that using a wide clear packaging tape adhered to the display that is larger that the suction cup allows you to maintain suction and pull the display up to insert splunger.

I also had to reroute cables

stolz9708 - Réponse

excellent guide 10/10

Margaret King - Réponse

If your display assembly came with it's own "new" home button installed and the target broken phone has NEVER used the fingerprint function...can you use the one on the new assembly without iOS complaining?

William Turner - Réponse

I really liked this guide but what i did not like was that it did not show how to remove the metal part from the screen, nor the speaker and camera. If possible please add this! Otherwise great guide as usual on ifixit!

Johan Andersson - Réponse

You skipped the introduction, didn't you? :) The guide you want is right here.

Jeff Suovanen -

I have order several different iPhone 6S screens from my supplier. When testing the screens I noticed without any other components plugged in (proximity sensor) just the screen I can use touch unless I cover the ear speaker area. The display doesn't dim which I wouldn't expect it to without the proximity sensor plugged in. But, is this a bad screen or a sensor of some kind in the actual screen cabling that senses light without proximity sensor?

Brady Davidson - Réponse

I have noticed with some cheaper 6S screens that the proximity sensor will not work. If that is the case for you make sure that you scratch off the black film that is on the glass where the proximity sensor is suppose to go. It is not the prettiest thing but it is functional!

Gadget Tech - PDX - Réponse

I've disconnected the 3 seperate pins (display data, digitizer and camera flex) why when i search for a screen on say amazon or ebay do the replacements only have 2??

A Fearn - Réponse

The third connector is for the front-facing camera flex/sensor assembly. A lot of screens are sold without it, so you have to transfer that part over from your old display before you reassemble everything. At the top of this guide, you'll find a link to a longer/alternate guide for transferring components over to a bare-bones replacement screen. If you prefer to save yourself the hassle, just stick with the guide you're seeing here and use the pre-assembled part linked at the top.

Jeff Suovanen -

Thank you for another excellent guide!

Christa - Réponse

https://www.injuredgadgets.com/LCD_Scree...

The way the cables look on this one i'm guessing is correct, could someone please tell me if this is the right fit for Verizon iPhone 6s please or send me a link to the one i need to get!!!!

Bailey Duncan - Réponse

That's an iPhone 6 display, as opposed to a 6s. They are not compatible. The correct part for the 6s is linked at the top of this guide.

Jeff Suovanen -

I replaced a screen and there's a "ghost touch" issue. Did I do something wrong or is it a defective display?

John Cavaliere - Réponse

It could be the part itself is defective or you bent a ribbon cable while putting it together. I had a similar issue once. The LCD worked perfectly fine when I tested it before I popped the screen back on. When I popped the screen in it didn't work, when I popped the screen back out with the cables still connected it worked. I returned the screen and swapped it out with a new one and it worked fine.

TLDR: it's probably the replacement screen itself.

John Cavaliere -

I don't understand , i have different displays , different producer and in my 3 different iPhone 6S the same problem.

WAPIK -

Hi I jus replaced mine. Any idea why my cameras don't work

Front or back

Tashan O'Neal - Réponse

WARNING!: You should NOT reconnect your battery FPC cable / connector until the VERY LAST reassembly step! Modify your reassembly procedure to move this "re-connection" of the battery connector until very last. I can't stress this enough. My logic board is now burned (it smoked upon reconnecting the LCD replacement part, because the battery was already reconnected and "live". The problem is that if you don't have the FPC connector aligned just perfect to the header (on the logic board), you create a momentary short (when the pins aren't aligned well)... this causes the Logic board to instantly burn. Save yourself trouble.

###You have been warned###

enoughstatic - Réponse

Sorry to hear you had such a bad outcome. The guide directs you to disconnect the battery first and reconnect it last, which is the correct procedure (and just good practice for electronics repair in general). There is no danger if the steps are followed in order. I don't know if it's any consolation, but at this point you most likely have a blown backlight circuit, which is a straightforward fix for a good microsoldering expert. There are several that frequent our Answers forum, so you may want to reach out to one of them to see about restoring your phone to working order. Good luck!

Jeff Suovanen -

The same seems to happened to me, I disconnected the battery before connecting the lcd, but I also seen no display and burn smell

lcorsini -

I followed this tutorial to replace my broken iPhone 6s display, everything went fine, everything working after the replacement, but the display kind of has a pink hue to it. Does anybody have had the same impression? I mean, is that because of the quality of the replacement part or may I have done something wrong during the repair process?

David - Réponse

I have the same problem. Did you find a solution yet? or did you just got used to it?

Donat -

Replaced my broken screen and the display works but the touch screen is not responding to any touch or pressure. When the old screen is put back the touch screen works fine . I have tried 2 different new screens with the same result.

Brian

Brian - Réponse

Please try to reseat the digitizer ZIF connecter (the one under the front camera cable). Hope this helps!! I work at a repair place, so please reply to me if it doesn’t so I can assist you.

Jake Rose -

I replaced the screen complete and battery and lightning / headphone jack all at the same time. Smooth as silk.

joshuabogage - Réponse

the screen was tough to get loose! ifixit sent a guitar pick with it that worked better than the spudger . little plugins are picky. maybe if i had smaller hands it would have been easier but it took less than an hour, Im happy!

Dan Powell - Réponse

Tried this repair on a broken 6s screen. The repair was easy, and the guide was helpful, but my touch ID does not work now. Does anyone know what the problem is

Jackson Kroger - Réponse

you have damaged the touch id flex cable

Computer Hacker -

I got this error but it turns out I just didn’t get the TouchID plug seated well. Got back in, snapped it down, and all is well again.

Jon Emmons -

Hey all! I replaced the screen just fine, the guide was amazing! However, the new screen powers on, displays the Apple logo for about five seconds then turns off…then it repeats. I don’t have to touch the phone, and it will do this over and over again. It’s doing it currently.

I tried the trick of holding down the power button and the home button and it all it does is turn off the phone and start it back up again with the exact same issue.

Any ideas?

Thanks!

Kellan Bradshaw - Réponse

You’ll probably need to do a bit of troubleshooting to isolate the issue. You can find some suggestions here and here. Good luck!

Jeff Suovanen -

I replaced my friends screen the other day and it took only about 30 or so minutes. I used the pro tech toolkit that you can buy from Ifixit and this guide and I had a smooth install and her phone was up and running in no time, fantastic guide.

Grass - Réponse

The phone would not boot! The battery was at about 15% before I started. After I replaced the display the phone would not boot. After disassembly & reassembly numerous times looking for a problem, even reinstalling the old display-no boot. In final desperation I plugged in the charger-the phone booted! Apparently if the battery voltage gets too low it will not start the phone after the battery has been disconnected or the phone disassembled.

I don’t know if this problem has an explanation or was unique to my repair.

maltman - Réponse

My 6s id doing the same. How long did you leave yours plugged in before it booted?

Cade Billions -

Thank you for a most detailed and insightful tutorial! This my 4th i-Phone screen repair/replacement and this was by far the best tutorial I have utilized. There were no surprises and the sequential photos really made this job safe for myself AND the phone!

Peter Bovey - Réponse

Nice tutorial!

i have replaced screen and new screen is half black with the other half show semi white and with vertyical lines…

connectors look clean and undamanged… . any thoughts?

Hood - Réponse

Just a warning: my replacement screen does not work well with polarized glasses. It blacks out in the normal ‘vertical’ position. Whereas my original apple screen worked great with polarized glasses when vertical and only slightly dimmed when in the horizontal position.

davecivello - Réponse

I have done this reapair but force touch isn’t working on the new screen. Any ideas on why?

My new screen also has a slight pink tone to it, but I think I’ll get used to it and probably wont think of it. As long as I get my force touch to work again..

Björn Tirsén - Réponse

I just finished a full screen assembly replacement and all seemed to go smoothly. However, like Kellan, Once I reassembled and turned the phone on, it has been stuck in an endless reboot loop of showing the Apple logo for a few seconds, then turning off and repeating.

Any ideas what’s wrong?

Jonathan Elison - Réponse

@jonelison Try the suggestions here and here. Good luck!

Jeff Suovanen -

Just finished the repair on my wife’s phone. Really straight forward. Moving the home button was really easy too!! Turned the phone back on and everything worked just as it should. Thanks!!

Stephen Silva - Réponse

Hi all! I replaced the screen according to the instructions. But when i start up the phone the display shows vertical stripes across the screen. The connectors and cables don’t show any obvious damage. When I reinstall the old screen no problems appear. What could be the problem?

Martijn Mooij - Réponse

I completed this guide and it went smoothly. The hardest part was installing new screen adhesive and removing and installing the home button onto the new screen without damaging it. Patience is needed to complete this without any problems. I notice a slight color difference between the OEM screen and my repacement screen. I took a phone call shortly after finishing my install and noticed that the new ear speaker does not sound good. It sounds like it has a lot of feedback, which my 2 year old oem speaker had none of.

Nathan Stark - Réponse

Do I need the Display Assembly Adhesive in order to replace a broken screen?

Tobias Vielmetter-Diekmann - Réponse

@tividi Replacing the display assembly adhesive is recommended but not required. If you get the fix kit linked at the top of this guide, it comes with replacement adhesive.

Jeff Suovanen -

Hello, I completed the guide and replaced the new screen from ifixit. But the screen wouldn’t turn on. I replaced the original cracked screen to check if I had done anything wrong… Its working fine…. Any solutions?

vimaladithya - Réponse

This is my first repair, and everything is great except now that I have came to the last step and am unsure on how to reassemble the device; I do not know what you mean by “in reverse order". Are you saying to start from step 28 and go all the way back to step 1?? Prompt answers are greatly appreciated.

Isaiah Gadsden - Réponse

28,27,26,25,…….1

willpowers51 -

I tried this, but my screen wasn’t broken? so why should I do this?

Carl Jefferson - Réponse

Similar issue as noted above, the new screen is dead. I can get the original cracked screen to work, but can’t get anything on the new. Second pro replacement kit i’ve gotten that was dead after replacement. Replaced quite a few screens in the past, never had an issue. Would have been less trouble to pay the extra twenty bucks for the guy at the mall to do it.

jmason - Réponse

Hi question.

If screen was broken. But Home button and touch ID work. If I will replace the screen. I will not have a problem with touch ID in the feature?

Arkady Shustov - Réponse

no because you are you going to transfer the home button on to the new screen.

hilmary -

good guide! repair done

Spence - Réponse

cool. success. just remember when reattaching the 3 cables at the end that the 2 horizontal ones are in the right order. I spent 10 minutes trying to connect the first cable as it was actually on top of the second cable (from when I added the camera, prox sensor ,etc).

just required flip on over the other at the base of the cables. and then they connected properly.

altomic - Réponse

Thank you, this guide worked perfectly and the repair process was relatively simple. The only tricky bit was reconnecting the home button connector—it didn’t ‘click’ clearly into place so I wasn’t sure if I did it right, and I didn’t want to press too hard. After reconnecting the new display, I powered the phone on and confirmed that the home button worked before removing the adhesive release liner and finishing the repair.

philballman - Réponse

I’m having the same issue with this install as some above have had: I install the replacement screen, reassemble everything, but when I press to turn on or plug in the phone nothing happens. The screen is just black. The old screen worked fine, but was only cracked. I’ve opened everything back up to check the cables/connections, disconnected everything, reconnected again, tried booting, and still nothing. Did I(we) just get a glitchy replacement? I’d love to see a response to this particular issue if anyone’s come across the same thing. Thanks.

davejmoz - Réponse

Reconnect your old screen and see if it still works as expected. If it does, you may have received a defective replacement screen. If it doesn’t, you may have damaged something during your repair. Did you disconnect the battery when removing and installing the screen as instructed?

Jeff Suovanen -

Everything is great but the light sensor doesn’t work

I traied two different iPhone 6s the same problem

is there anything on the new iPhone LCD lights sensor should I remove it before installation??

raid amri - Réponse

Fix went smoothly, and the display is fully functional - but despite replacing the display adhesive, the sides of the screen don’t seem to want to stay tightly fit. Anyone know the reason for this? And perhaps a fix?

Thanks

Brooks Anderson - Réponse

Stuck on one section while installing the new screen, adding the Touch ID/Home Button and when screwing the plate that holds the Touch ID/Home Button from the back, the screws do not reach in enough to screw into the holes. Tried pushing down as hard as I could without damaging the assembly. Screws will fit into the old screen assembly but not the new assembly from IFIXIT.

Shane - Réponse

Thanks for censoring my post. The real &&^&^$^ deal.

awesom_o - Réponse

@awesom_o I deleted your comment because it contained incorrect information—when performed as instructed, this repair does not disable any of the phone’s functions. Many, many people have done this with no problem, so to say it “sucks” and tell everyone not to try it is misleading. That said, I can tell you were frustrated and I’m sorry you had a bad experience. If you want to share your thoughts in a slightly more constructive, less-scaremongery fashion, I’ll be happy to leave them up. The point of having a comment system is to help each other identify (and hopefully resolve) issues like the ones you experienced. You can also try the Answers forum if you want detailed help. Plus, if you bought your parts from iFixit, we have a crack team of customer service reps dedicated to helping you resolve problems and making sure you didn’t get a defective part. You just have to reach out. Hope this helps.

Jeff Suovanen -

As at least one person stated, I wasn’t sure the home button cable was attached. It doesn’t click in. It’s a matter of having it in the right place, and then screwing the plate down on it. Fortunately, I had it placed properly, and upon powering up, it worked. Other than that, the only challenge is dealing with tiny screws with old eyeballs. :) Great guide!

Gregory Aden - Réponse

Instructions were, super concise, and very easy to follow. Make sure to take your time, and this was significantly easier than some of the other phones on the market to work with. Many thanks to the author.

Matt Howe - Réponse

Worked a treat, thanks OP. Home button had 3 screw holes and 2 screws so I stole a screw from the dead screen I was replacing.

Eric Bostrom - Réponse

light sensor dont wrok after purchase iPhone 6s LCD Screen and Digitizer Full Assembly . Help?

Hector Tejada Izquierdo - Réponse

Tutorial incompleto!

cleytonjardim - Réponse

Got it done, a little shout out to ifixit, the repair kit is EXCELLENT! It literally has everything you need to replace a screen on an iPhone 6s. Many thanks for the comprehensive kit.

Mike Jacobs - Réponse

Excellent guide. Due to the mechanics of adding prerequisite guides, I am guessing the step about lining up the new adhesive along the edges of the bottom panel was omitted because it doesn’t work in reverse. The comments above are helpful in that regard. Pretty self-explanatory, though. Overall, great job.

Alyson Eggleston - Réponse

Habe das erste mal Akku und Display gewechselt. Hat alles ganz wunderbar funktioniert, sehr gute Anleitung. Jetzt startet das IPhone 6s nicht. Bildschirm schwarz. Was kann ich machen?

Martin Kröger - Réponse

i got my new display in and everything went fine but now the phone restarts every 5 minutes. when i replace the new screen again with the old one it worked again. Did i do anything wrong? i had no issues replacing the screen.

Also it kind of did not know the exact battery percatage. turned off and on again and then showed 1 %.

felizian - Réponse

I have replaced the screen of my iPhone 6S, but 3D Touch does not work. Is this feature missing from the screen from iFixit or is there something I may have done wrong ?

Julien Pierron - Réponse

The iFixit part should be fully functional, including 3D Touch. If your old screen still works, you could try reinstalling it as a quick test—if 3D Touch works again, then your new screen may be defective and you should exchange it. Reach out to customer support and they can fix you up. Good luck!

Jeff Suovanen -

I was hesitant to do this repair myself, but it went fine. All the additional comments at each step were helpful. I combined this with a battery replacement and a new life proof case and it’s like I have a new phone! I’m glad I went with ifixit, the tools, packaging and support were all top-notch.

David Heinbach - Réponse

Recently performed what seemed was a successful replacement of the display assembly and now it seems the touch is inconsistent and clicks while scrolling or is not sensitive enough at times. Any thoughts?

chadwhick7 - Réponse

Please try to reseat the digitizer ZIF connecter (the one under the front camera cable). Hope this helps!! I work at a repair place, so please reply to me if it doesn’t so I can assist you.

Jake Rose -

Managed to do this today and everything went great following this guide! Except for one thing: my 6S frame is bent (#bendgate) and I’m pretty sure this is why the new digitizer assembly doesn’t sit quite completely flat on the end that is bent… Does anyone have any suggestions for this? Right now near the top the screen isn’t flush and has a visible gap between it and the back/frame of the rest of the phone…

Tristan Smythe - Réponse

This is the second time I’ve saved an iPhone using repair parts kit from ifixit! The screen kit was delivered on time yesterday. This morning opened the repair kit, everything is well packaged and the tool kit and parts are very high quality with everything you need. The most difficult part of the process is prying the old screen off. I used a hair dryer to heat the phone front and back to loosen the adhesive. Then I used the suction cup tool to pull on the screen. It took a while but eventually the screen started to come off and then I was able to use the pry tool to work it completely loose. I overtightened one of the screws on the home button assembly, stripping the hole so the screw would not stay in place. The guide warns against this! I had to leave the screw out but the phone seemed to work fine without it. The phone looks and operates like new now!

David Parker - Réponse

Thank you so much for this very important information about repair of the phones

kassim - Réponse

For extra excitement, I had no replacement adhesive…so I used some Sugru for this project. Very easy to apply with the spludger.

Gabriel - Réponse

Excellent guide and all steps worked like a charm.

maybe just one remark: if the display is not broken (mine needed to be replaced due to a blind corner) the adhesive is so strong that simply pulling it up with the suction cup will take forever. I used a hair dryer to soften the glue and then the display came loose with ease…

olonetzky - Réponse

Great guide, my new screen works!

Peter - Réponse

Hello all, what about the screen gasket. Did that come with your kit? How do I get one of those?

cediv - Réponse

Comes with the kit and is also available separately. Please see the parts list at the top of the guide.

Jeff Suovanen -

Thank you! iPhone 6S, screen cracked to a million pieces. The clear packing tape worked like a charm to secure the broken glass AND to make the “handle” to remove the screen assembly. Using the hair dryer to warm up the edges was necessary. After that, the screen assemble came off easily. The longest, most tedious part, was the removal of the old adhesive and cleaning of the the case with alcohol. Very important step to ensure the new adhesive sticks, retaining the water resistance of the device.

After clicking the screen assembly in place, I discovered the the 2 bottom screws wouldn’t bite into the holes inside. So I had to remove the new screen, to bend the holes back toward the edge. so the screws would reach. Luckily I had not applied pressure or heat yet.

Time consuming? yes, but not very difficult. Just don’t rush it, make sure you have time, and read the whole guide before you even start.

Big Al - Réponse

What great guide. And what a great feeling to repair and upgrade your own electronics. Thank you iFixit!

orocasa - Réponse

Success! This was a fantastic guide, but I ended up having to take it to a shop, because after three tries the screen still wouldn’t light up. The tech was able to use my iFixit parts, though. He said I had bent the pins on the LCD cable. Dang. And that one actually seemed relatively easy to reattach (unlike the digitizer cable). Despite the mistake I made, it was fun to take the phone apart, and I feel pretty bada** knowing how it all fits together now. I’ll definitely order from ifixit again. Thank you for enabling all of us!

Jill Carlsen - Réponse

Just tried the whole thing and everything went well but the homw button is not working. any help please?

Bassic Lessons - Réponse

Replacing the battery and the screen took me about thirty minutes. The most difficult part of the repair was getting the battery cable snapped on and snapping the screen back into place (you have to slide it up a little bit at the top before you can snap in the rest of it), but other than that it was much easier than i thought. The screen is raised slightly and it appears to have a little more red light than the original screen, but it isn’t enough of a difference to complain.

Mitchell Wallin - Réponse

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