Introduction
Comment remplacer l'ensemble écran de votre MacBook Pro afin de réparer un écran fissuré ou défectueux. L'ensemble inclut également les nappes de l'écran et du rétroéclairage.
Bien que nous ayons testé cette procédure de remplacement avec des écrans de remplacement Apple d'origine avec succès, il se peut que la puce T2 d'Apple empêche les écrans aftermarket de fonctionner correctement et que votre MacBook Pro ne redémarre plus.
Pour votre sécurité, laissez la batterie de votre MacBook Pro se vider en dessous de 25 % avant de vous lancer. Une batterie lithium-ion chargée peut déclencher un incendie dangereux et incontrôlable si on la perce accidentellement.
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Allumez votre Mac et lancez Terminal.
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Copiez-collez ou tapez la commande suivante dans Terminal :
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sudo nvram AutoBoot=%00
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Cliquez sur la touche [return]. Si nécessaire, saisissez votre mot de passe d'admin et cliquez sur la touche [return]. Remarque : il est possible que cette touche porte le symbole ⏎ ou l'inscription "enter".
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sudo nvram AutoBoot=%03
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Avec un tournevis P5, dévissez les vis qui fixent le boîtier inférieur. Elles sont aux tailles suivantes :
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Quatre vis de 3,7 mm
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Deux vis de 7,3 mm
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Posez une ventouse à côté du bord inférieur du boîtier, entre les trous de vis.
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Tirez sur la ventouse afin d'ouvrir un petit espace sous le boîtier inférieur.
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Insérez le coin d'un médiator d'ouverture dans l'espace que vous venez de créer sous le boîtier inférieur.
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Faites glisser le médiator autour du coin le plus proche, puis le long de la moitié du côté du MacBook Pro.
I recommend being careful while sliding as you can scratch the speaker. The actual clip is about halfway up the side, whereas the speaker is closer to the front (further from the hinge). So stay very shallow with just the tip of the pick until you get halfway up the side.
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Répétez l'étape précédente de l'autre côté et détachez le deuxième clip avec un médiator.
Same advice that I gave for the other side — be careful not to scratch the speaker which is close to the bottom. Keep the pick shallow until you get halfway up the side.
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Poussez fermement le boîtier inférieur vers le bord avant du MacBook (en l'éloignant de la charnière) pour séparer le dernier de ses clips.
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Poussez d'abord d'un côté, puis de l'autre.
This was made a lot easier by using a lever in the hinge area in combination with pulling. The amount of force required was more than the grip I could get on the metal allowed for my macbook.
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Retirez le boîtier inférieur.
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Posez-le à sa place et alignez les clips coulissants à côté de la charnière. Appuyez sur le boîtier tout en le faisant glisser vers la charnière. Le mouvement devrait s'arrêter au moment où les clips se réemboîtent.
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Quand les clips coulissants sont refermés et que le boîtier inférieur semble bien aligné, appuyez fermement sur celui-ci pour réemboîter les quatre clips cachés. Vous devriez sentir et entendre un clic à ce moment.
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Décollez et retirez l'autocollant isolant qui recouvre la puce de la batterie. Celle-ci se trouve sur le bord de la carte mère le plus proche de la batterie.
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S'il ne se décolle pas aisément, faites-le légèrement chauffer avec un iOpener, un sèche-cheveux ou un pistolet à air chaud pour ramollir l'adhésif, puis réessayez.
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Prenez une spatule pour retourner délicatement le clapet de retenue du connecteur ZIF de la nappe.
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Débranchez la nappe de données de la puce de la batterie en la faisant glisser hors de sa prise sur la carte mère.
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Décollez l'adhésif qui recouvre le connecteur de la nappe de données de la puce de la batterie.
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Soulevez et débranchez le clapet de retenue du connecteur du côté opposé de la nappe de données.
I’ve seen versions of this battery board that the cable goes around and to the back of the board, so this step is not always necesary.
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Faites glisser la nappe hors de sa prise sur la puce de la batterie et ôtez-la complètement.
I’ve seen versions of this battery board that the cable goes around and to the back of the board, so this step is not always necesary.
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Avec un tournevis Torx T5, dévissez la vis à tête plate qui fixe le connecteur d'alimentation de la batterie.
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Avec un tournevis Torx T3, dévissez les deux vis de 3,5 mm qui fixent le cache de la nappe de la puce de l'écran.
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Ôtez le cache.
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Retirez les deux vis Torx T3 de 1,7 mm qui fixent le cache du connecteur de la nappe de la puce de l'écran.
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Enlevez le cache.
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Avec votre tournevis Torx T3, enlevez les quatre vis de 2,0 mm des cache-charnières (il y en a deux de chaque côté).
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Utilisez un tournevis Torx T5 pour dévisser la vis de 2,9 mm qui fixe le faisceau de câbles d'antenne.
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Reprenez votre tournevis Torx T5 pour dévisser les quatre vis de 3,3 mm qui fixent la puce de l'écran.
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Assurez-vous que la nappe de la puce de l'écran se trouve au-dessus de la puce et n'est pas coincée en dessous.
Needed a T4, not T5 on mine. It’s unclear if it’s my bits or my laptop that disagree with this step’s directions. If your T5 doesn’t fit though, don’t force it. See if a T4 fits. If it’s like mine, it will fit perfectly with no play.
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Avec un tournevis Pentalobe P2, retirez les seize vis de 1,5 mm qui fixent l'ensemble antenne (huit de chaque côté).
Before this step, note those two yellow circles (copper) towards the inside of the laptop and next to the red circles around the antenna screws. They are the result of two T4s that were removed.
You can see the black screw heads in Step 24 and they’re just copper rings with no screw in Step 25.
There are two additional screws along this row which will need to be removed. Once done, the assembly they were holding down will be loose and your antenna assembly will also feel more free. Gently pry it upwards. It will not require much force. Significantly less than I was trying to apply to it before realizing the instructions were wrong.
If your antenna assembly won’t budge after following the directions, this is what’s missing.
Hey James! I'm not sure which screws you’re talking about. Are these screws in addition to the four already marked in Step 24?
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Retirez soigneusement l'ensemble antenne, tout en faisant passer le faisceau de câbles d'antenne sous le dissipateur thermique.
When reassembling this, don't forget to have the display board's cables that go to the display be under the antenna assembly. I screwed in 16 screws before realizing this!
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Dévissez les quatre vis Torx T3 de 3,9 mm qui fixent les ressorts du cache de la nappe d'écran.
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Servez-vous d'un tournevis Torx T8 pour ôter les deux vis de 5,0 mm qui fixent chacune des charnières (quatre vis au total).
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Avec un tournevis Torx T3, dévissez les deux vis de 1,5 mm qui fixent le cache des connecteurs de la vitre tactile de la Touch Bar et du capteur d'angle d'ouverture.
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Si vous comptez réutiliser votre écran, ouvrez-le et mettez un morceau de ruban adhésif juste au-dessus de chaque charnière. Cela évitera de rayer la vitre au cours de l'étape suivante.
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Ouvrez complètement l'écran et posez votre MacBook sur la tranche.
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Avec un tournevis Torx T8, dévissez les deux vis de 5,0 mm restant dans les charnières (une de chaque côté).
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Finissez par la vis du haut en maintenant les deux moitiés du MacBook Pro d'une main pour éviter qu'elles s'écartent et tombent de façon imprévue.
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Rapprochez les deux moitiés l'une de l'autre pour pouvoir sortir les charnières de leur emplacement dans le châssis.
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Éloignez la moitié inférieure du MacBook Pro de vous tout en appuyant sur l'écran dans votre direction pour les séparer.
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Comparez votre pièce de remplacement à la pièce d'origine. Il vous faudra peut-être transférer d'éventuels composants restants ou retirer des films adhésifs de la nouvelle pièce avant de commencer le remontage.
Pour remonter votre appareil, suivez les étapes ci-dessus en sens inverse.
Apportez vos déchets électroniques à un recycleur certifié R2 ou e-Stewards.
La réparation ne s’est pas déroulée comme prévu ? Consultez notre communauté de réponses pour obtenir de l’aide au diagnostic.
Comparez votre pièce de remplacement à la pièce d'origine. Il vous faudra peut-être transférer d'éventuels composants restants ou retirer des films adhésifs de la nouvelle pièce avant de commencer le remontage.
Pour remonter votre appareil, suivez les étapes ci-dessus en sens inverse.
Apportez vos déchets électroniques à un recycleur certifié R2 ou e-Stewards.
La réparation ne s’est pas déroulée comme prévu ? Consultez notre communauté de réponses pour obtenir de l’aide au diagnostic.
Annulation : je n'ai pas terminé ce tutoriel.
17 autres ont terminé cette réparation.
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9 commentaires
Ou est ce qu’on trouve l’écran ?
Ou est ce qu’on trouve l’écran ?
Is it possible to boot up the machine without the screen attached (and use external displays only)?
Great guide, covers the details nicely. I would add that the nvram command no longer works as of firmware in Big Sur. We don’t have too much trouble with that, however. Shut down the machine, and make sure to not open the lid or do anything else until the battery is disconnected.
I will also note that we’ve never had a T3 screwdriver not strip unless we cut the tip off the torx; the screws Apple uses never seem to be happy until that is done. Haven’t see anyone else complain about that, though, so maybe it’s just us!
In case anyone is wondering: as long as your part is OEM, it shouldn’t give any issues with the T2 chip. Most assemblies are not sold with the screen angle sensor, however, so that needs to be transferred to the new assembly. That’s just a matter of unscrewing the one screw that holds it to the clutch and then attaching it to the new one in the same way.
My screen gets glitch lines but only if I open it up past 25-30 degrees. So I’m thinking it is something mechanical with the hinge and the connecting wires. any insight?
I started getting horizontal lines 2 mm apart on my screen. Lines would vanish when screen was closed to a smaller angle (30 degrees) and then reappear, when opening wider. Also experienced occasions ghosting of images or overlapping app windows. Took the MBP 16 to the Apple Store for further diagnosis. Techs indicated that it could be a loose display cable. They offered to check for a possible loose display cable and re-seat it. If not resolved, said display would have to be replaced. For what it’s worth. (Apple offline and online diagnostics performed all indicated no other hardware problems, with the GPU, etc. Problem seemed to be diagnosed. Attaching an external display is also helpful in diagnostic of the GPU. The Apple Store near me, quoted $599 for the Apple display and $79 for install.
freaman -
Great guide. It doesn't include the replacement of the lid angle sensor. I had to disconnect it from the old screen and re-attach it to the new one. I also got really worried because it didn't turn on when I first tried to restart. I had to plug it in and hold the power button for a few seconds before it came back on. Definitely gave me a freight.
Is this step necessary? I can’t perform this step as I am attempting to repair water damage and need to remove logic board & most likely replace the battery.
lamajr - Réponse
@mac_medic You definitely don’t want the power coming on while the board is wet. In your case, I think powering on the machine to disable Auto Boot would do more damage than it prevents. I agree, skip this step and be prepared to disconnect the battery quickly if the laptop automatically powers on. Good luck!
Jeff Suovanen -
Thats right! You don't want power running while working on your logic board.
Dan -
This did not work when running High Sierra.
Kyle B - Réponse
Tried this on a 2018 MBP 13” Touchbar (there’s no iFixit guide for this model yet). Need to replace a broken screen.
Luckily I managed to connect to an external screen (Cmd-Down Brightness to switch displays) and enter above command. Seems to work, but there’s another problem with this model - it powers up as soon as any key is pressed……. ffs <gnashes teeth>
Cool_Breeze - Réponse
I unscrew the battery first and wrap electrical tape over the logic board battery connector before attempting any repairs to the board. Haven’t had any problems yet and I’ve worked on about 10 of these models already. Also when you open the bottom case use a suction cup at the bottom and pull up then run a plastic spudger along the edges to disconnect the clips. Also only use a plastic spudger on the board. Saw a youtube video from a repair shop and he did not disconnect the power and used all metal tools during the entire process of removing the board. His last step was to disconnect the battery terminal.
Brian - Réponse
Is this step necessary if my mac can turn on? Battery fully dead(
Nursat b - Réponse
BEFORE YOU START: The included torx head stripped off before I was done (and you might need an additional T4) so stop now and go buy a good one. Also they fail to warn you above to get some blue threadlocker ahead of time.
Jason Sherron - Réponse
This command did not work for me and I read that sometime in later 2020 Apple stopped this command from working…any ideas on a work around?
Patrick Machacek - Réponse
Not able to do that with damaged screen
richardjgreen - Réponse
Hi. This does not work on 2018 13” MacBook Pro with Touch Bar. I did exactly this to disable auto boot. But when I check by using nvram -p it says: auto-boot true. Am I doing something incorrectly? I did everything step by step. Copied and pasted the sudo command, pressed enter and then entered my password. I have Big Sur 11.1 installed. Is there any other way since I need to replace the screen. Thank you. Adrian
Adrian Vizik - Réponse
Hi everyone. This is also a little pointless if you can’t see anything on the screen, and you don’t have a display adapter to USB C to display it. I agree with Brian about removing the back and disconnecting the battery cable before you even think about opening the lid of the MacBook. Applying the insulation tape is also a handy little tip that just makes sure there is no way to discharge from either the board or battery.
Roberto Enrieu - Réponse
running `nvram -p | grep 'AutoBoot'` in terminal verifies that it was accepted
result: `AutoBoot %00`
Marek Polák - Réponse
Running Big Sur 11.6.7 on a 2019 16" MBP, it's "auto-boot". So it's:
nvram -p | grep 'auto-boot'to display the current state, the default istrue- and then to change it,sudo nvram auto-boot=falsewhich turns it off.Ed Mechem -
This step is completely unnecessary if you follow the guide to disconnect the battery properly. Just put some tape between the battery and logic board connection to prevent it from accidentally touching and therefore powering on the laptop.
Grant Ormsby - Réponse
It took me a few tries to make this command work, as I was able to copy and paste the command into Terminal, but could not type in my laptop’s password. I finally typed my password into a text document, copied it (command C), and then pasted it into Terminal and it worked.
tommy404 - Réponse
I didn’t do this. Mine never auto-booted before I replaced the battery. Now it does.
hatuxka - Réponse
BEFORE YOU DO ANYTHING - CHECK THE BATTERY!
I-fixit sent me a bad battery, which I didn’t realize until it was already install. They sent me a new one, but I wasted hours uninstalling and reinstalled.
Get a volt meter and measure the voltage on the output of the battery pack. If it reads 0 V, SEND IT BACK. It should read over 2 V.
bcardanha - Réponse
When I did this from Terminal.app within Recovery Mode, the “sudo” was not recognized but I could invoke it without the sudo part. It seems to have been accepted when looking at “nvram -p”
johann beda - Réponse
When in Recovery Mode, you already have superuser powers. So you don't need to prefix commands with the sudo command to invoke them with root privileges; you already have them. Do a
pwd(print working directory) after opening Terminal in Recovery Mode, and you'll see that you're in the root user's directory.Ed Mechem -
I received the battery kit for my 2018 MacBook Pro and as per the above comment from bcardanha - Oct 12, 2021, I checked the voltage on the pads marked + and - . It was zero volts so I panicked a bit.
I sent a message on the iFixiT Facebook page and I got no reply. I finally found the customer service email for Ifixit Europe and sent them an email voicing my concern as I was not keen to work for couple of hours just to discover that the battery is faulty. I had an almost instant reply on the email (kudos to them) and they adviced me to go ahead and install the new battery as the voltage measured when battery is not connected is not relevant.
I took a leap of faith and after two hours… the new battery showed 50% charge and everything seems to be working just fine. I am happy it worked.
Mircea Comanici - Réponse
After removing the old battery and installing the new battery I powered up the MBP before screwing the bottom on. I discovered the my keyboard would not function. It took a few hours of investigation and frustration that I discovered the track pad power ribbon had become partially dislodged from the trackpad. I was able to see that this through the little machined slot where the battery sat. I had to remove the trackpad to reinsert the power ribbon back into the connector in the trackpad. after reassembling and reinstalling the battery etc the keyboard worked. Just food for thought if your run into the keyboard issue.
Ed Mease - Réponse
This should be the default. IMO I tell you to power on - not the lid.
G Sena - Réponse