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Droit à la réparation

Boutique

Introduction

Ce tutoriel vous aide à retirer l'ensemble capteurs de cotre Samsung Galaxy S8. Cet ensemble inclut le voyant d'état LED, l'émetteur infrarouge et un télémètre.

Ce tutoriel nécessite de retirer la coque arrière en verre, vous aurez donc besoin de bandes adhésives de remplacement pour refixer la coque arrière au téléphone.

Avant de démonter votre téléphone, déchargez la batterie en dessous de 25 %. Celle-ci peut prendre feu et/ou exploser si elle est perforée accidentellement, mais les risques sont moindres avec une batterie déchargée.

  1. Nous recommandons de nettoyer le micro-ondes avant de commencer. D'éventuels restes au fond risquent d'adhérer à votre iOpener. Placez l'iOpener au centre du micro-ondes.
    • Nous recommandons de nettoyer le micro-ondes avant de commencer. D'éventuels restes au fond risquent d'adhérer à votre iOpener.

    • Placez l'iOpener au centre du micro-ondes.

    • Pour les micro-ondes à plateau tournant : assurez-vous que le plateau tourne bien. Si votre iOpener se coince, il risque de surchauffer et de brûler.

    which temperature must be used for heating? Thx

    fbarletta - Réponse

    I found you need to be very patient when using the iOpener. It's worth taking your time, giving the heat time to work on the glue. When I finally got the battery out, there were some strips of glue left behind that I just cleaned off with some isopropanol before installing the new battery.

    By the way, I had to run the iOpener for longer in my microwave for it to get hot enough. When it was too hot to touch, I figured it was hot enough for the batteries.

    Fredrik -

    I didn't find this to be as hard as I had built it up in my mind to be; HOWEVER, saying that I need to say years ago I was the local Nokia service center in my town. But many years ago right after they got rid of analog times. Yeah. A classic installer/repairer mistake when starting something they haven't fixed or installed before is picking up the instructions, flipping through them; maybe even reading a section that is new-then tossing the instructions over the shoulder. "I got this." This usually comes right before something major gets broke. And I can tell you when you try to do it yourself and then mess it up horribly then take it to the repair shop. Well we called that "I can do it myself" syndrome and charged extra to put back together what they brought in in the box. Now knowing all this - I can't stress this enough because I am stupid, stupid, stupid. COVER YOUR SCREEN IN CLEAR BOXING TAPE AND READ ALL THE INSTRUCTION BELOW THROUGH TO THE END BEFORE EVEN ATTEMPTING THIS FIX. Take my advise.

    windizy - Réponse

    I didn't have an iOpener, so I used a wheat type heat bag. If you do this though, make sure you put a layer of plastic between your Mac and the bag, or you'll get condensation in places you don't want it.

    Martin Gray - Réponse

    I started out using the iOpener but switched to my wife's hairdryer. A heat gun or hair dryer proved to be much more convenient and is a time saviour. You can heat more and the glue becomes more fluid make the next steps with the opening picks much easier

    Jan Van Puymbroeck - Réponse

    I know this is obvious, but backup your iPad with iTunes before you start. I'd also turn off your passcode if you have one.

    Laurie Higgins - Réponse

    Ther first time you heat up the iOpener for this repair when its room temperature I had to heat it up for more than 30 seconds. I remember I had to heat it up for around 45 seconds. However, after that when you need to reheat it again during the repair 30 seconds will be enough.

    Yousef Ghalib - Réponse

    I used the wheat bag in a sensor microwave heating up to 65-70 deg C (155 def F).

    ian cheong - Réponse

    Get yourself a cherry pit bean bag the size of your iPad. Heat it, put the iPad on it for 3 to 5 minutes or so, reheat the cherry pit bean bag, again put your iPad on it. Then heat the iOpener and start working. The cherry pit bean bag will have to be reheated several times, but it will soften the adhesive so you have less problems with the iOpener

    Tim Feyaerts - Réponse

    The heating can be done very effectively (and quickly) with 3d printer heated bed. Make sure the bed is clean. Set the temperature to 60c, (130f ) and put the ipad face down for +/- 10 minutes. Repeat as needed throughout the “gentle prying” stages.

    polleyphony - Réponse

    The iOpener did not work at all for me.

    I had to use a heat gun and bring the edges of the case up to ~200 degrees (used an infrared thermometer to measure) before the glue would weaken. This obviously superheated the metal frame, so I also had to wear gloves to handle the phone while prying the back off with the included picks.

    Mike Jeanette - Réponse

    Repair instructions worked like a charm. Had to be patient with the iOpener and getting the screen off. I tried repeatedly without success until shifting the suction cup a bit to the left side where perhaps the glue had loosened up a bit more.

    Kyle - Réponse

    The iOpener, in my opinion, is of no help. Many warnings to say “don’t warm it too much”, but the glue doesn’t melt if not warm enough. As a result, a complete waste of time and energy. In addition, too much liquid in it, so it doesn’t lay on the device on a sufficient surface. I took a hairdryer and it worked much much better.

    laurentvidu - Réponse

    I used an immersion bath to heat this to 180F and applied it to the device until the outside temperature of the opener read 150F with an IR thermometer. Removing the screen took very little force with this method.

    breadandbits - Réponse

    My experience. I was replacing the screen which had been cracked and a little shattered in some places. The iopener is pretty much useless, so was the suction cup. The suction cup would probably be more useful if I was doing something besides the screen. Also you probably want the clean the screen before using it so it can get good suction. I used a hair dryer on high for a couple of minutes at a time (someone on this tread suggested that). I used my exacto knife and a razor blade to get into the adhesive. First the exacto to get the initial cut, then the razor blade to go a little deeper. Could have probably just used the razor blade, but the exacto has a little more finesse. I got the razor blade in and a little under the glass then I used the picks to wedge in. I didn’t want to risk anything using the razor blade too much. Used tape to keep the shattered glass together.

    trebor65 - Réponse

    My experience pt2

    Fortunately the shattering was mostly on the edges and most of it had adhesive on the back so it stuck together. Just take your time and work your way around following the guide to get the screen off. Have some goof off or goo be gone to clean the frame when putting the new glass on or putting the existing one back. (someone suggested that also, very good idea). Be careful of the LCD (you should know that). The cable on my LCD was pretty tight, so I propped it up while taking the cable cover off and when I put it back on I did the same thing. I just put a bottle on the battery and leaned the back of the LCD on that while attaching the cables and putting the screws back on the cover. Also be careful with the home button and the bracket on the back of it. I had enough old adhesive on left on the bracket that it stuck back to the new glass fine. So far only 12 hours in, so we will see how that holds up when the kids get at it.

    trebor65 - Réponse

    Another alternative if you do not have the iopener is to use a bed time hotwater bottle. Do not over fill it though. Just put enough hot water in to support the phone while you work around the adhesive.

    I use both the hot water bottle and iopener together on Samsung's. It makes life easier

    gazza667 - Réponse

    I followed the directions and heated my iOpener for 30 seconds in a 1000 watt microwave, and it came out at 160 degrees F, as verified by a infrared thermometer. This allowed me to separate the last bit of the back of my Samsung S8, which was already coming off due to a swollen battery (hence the reason for the repair).

    Dennis - Réponse

    Hallo,habe den Akku erfolgreich getauscht.Doch seitdem gibt es bei Telefonaten eine Rückkopplung für den anrufenden.Bei mir ist alles normal.Woran liegt das?Mfg

    Manu R - Réponse

    If you follow these instructions, you will crack your screen like I did. Heating the iOpener for 30 seconds, using it to melt glue, then waiting 10 minutes to reheat is useless. The iOpener can be used to maybe warm the glue on whatever side you aren’t working on. You need a hairdryer and/or a heat gun to melt the glue and separate the glass from the iPad.

    Anyone want to buy an old iPad with broken glass and a dead battery?

    mpulliam - Réponse

    Not everybody has a microwave. You should provide a target temperature for the iOpener and instructions for a conventional oven, or pot of warm water, or whatever. Although I will probably use a heat gun …

    Esmond Pitt - Réponse

    Three times heating opener and no luck. Tried pressing down gently on opener with a towel, and the opener broke. Wondering if I now replace table mats, fancy table cloth, etc. or will this stuff wash out.

    Not impressed so far. Maybe the hair dryer next.

    doug - Réponse

    I support the comments about the iOpener. Everyone has a hair drier, FHS, so get a cheap IR thermometer (£18) and blow heat until the area is 60+ deg C. Still takes w while, and getting the screen off is v scary, but just add more heat if you feel resistance.

    The rest of the kit is good, esp the magnetic screwdrivers.

    Richard O'Brien - Réponse

    #### WARNUNG WENN MINIMALSTER SPRUNG IM DISPLAY IST FUNKTIONERT DAS NICHT!!! ######

    Hatte einen winzigen, minimalen Sprung im Display. Ich dachte es könnte gehen, weil der Sprung “abgeschlossen” war. Er hat in einer Ecke ein winzige Glasteil rausgeschnitten. NEIN! Geht nicht. Habe alles mit viel Geduld dem iOpener und einem Föhn erhitzt. Es ist trotzdem sofort über das komplette Display zersprungen…

    T z - Réponse

    I’ve started with iOpener but changed very quickly to a heatgun. That was more efficient.

    Mizzoo, s.r.o. - Réponse

  2. Chauffez l'iOpener pendant trente secondes.
    • Chauffez l'iOpener pendant trente secondes.

    • Comme l'iOpener refroidit au cours de la réparation, rechauffez-le à nouveau au micro-ondes, mais ne dépassez pas les trente secondes à chaque fois.

    • Faites attention de ne pas surchauffer l'iOpener pendant la réparation. En cas de surchauffe, l'iOpener risque d'exploser.

    • Ne touchez jamais l'iOpener s'il vous paraît gonflé.

    • Si le milieu de l'iOpener est encore trop chaud au toucher, continuez à l'utiliser jusqu'à ce qu'il soit assez froid pour le chauffer à nouveau. Un iOpener correctement chauffé devrait rester chaud pendant environ 10 minutes.

    I had to heat mine up for more than 30 seconds. After 30 seconds on high it was only warm. It had to keep trying different times and checking it until it got hot. I think the initial time that I put it in for was over a minute.

    whale13 - Réponse

    DO NOT USE IN NON ROTATING MICROWAVE! It will pop a hole. I had it in for 45 seconds the first time. It wasn't very hot inside and I saw it started to leak on the paper towel I put under it. Just a fair bit of advice. I think I will just stick with the heat gun. Loud but useful.

    Alex Jackson - Réponse

    I heated mine up for 30 seconds, tested, then again for 30 seconds. It felt adequately hot. Leaving it on the left side, per the instruction, for a minute did not loosen the adhesive. I ended up pulling the suction cup hard enough to shadder the old screen. Moral of the story, I don't think it gets hot enough safely to have an affect.

    Travis Dixon - Réponse

    There is a clear problem here with the heating part using the iopener things....no details are given. Whoever is testing them needs to make it clear - What temperature does it need to be? And for which phone models, because they differ in what's needed. It's only £10-15 for a laser guided temp sensor unit, and the designers/repairers should have one of those already for doing these kinds of repairs. Explaining half a repair, is worse than not explaining at all :-(

    assortedrubbish - Réponse

    All phones/devices differ it’s unrealistic and unsafe to put a exact time/temperature needed to soften the adhesive. It’s really quite simple you warm the device evenly and in a controlled manner just enough to enable pry tools and picks to begin separating. Best tool in my opinion but again this is because I have experience is a hot plate and heat gun both of which are used at nearly the lowest settings and I can handle flat palming the plate for almost 10 seconds I leave the device to conduct heat until approx it’s about 110 at most 120 ish this will be plenty to soften all the adhesive if any problem areas I use heat gun while prying. Again you need go slowly and learn with a throw away phone

    Greg Latta -

    I used a hot water bottle, works well as it covers the whole screen and stays hot for longer.

    dave - Réponse

    If I may suggest include your microwave wattage so people can get an idea on time for there own

    Patrick Storey - Réponse

    I ended up using a hair dryer. That iOpener thing took forever.

    mark fitzgerald - Réponse

    30 seconds sure isn’t cutting it… 45 didn’t get the screen of my iPad air 2 to budge either… even after resting on the ipad for 4 minutes.

    60 seconds in the microwave, the iOpener burst.

    I’ll get a new one and try once more with heating it 45 seconds and repeat that for 30 minutes like others have said here. If that doesn’t work it’ll have to be the heat gun.

    K

    Karl Marble - Réponse

    I can’t recommend the microwave. If the the iOpener becomes too hot, it bursts. Better put the opener in cooking water. Dry it and use it. Instead of an iOpener you can use hot/cool packs as well.

    Bernhard Keim - Réponse

    Trust the directions! I forgot and left it in the Microwave too long and after 1 minute I had Mt Vesuvius - the iOpener burst and spewed the goodies out. The problem is, the Digitizer can be damaged by a hot air gun, so I had to tough out and remove the glue the hard way. I made it … with lots of patience! Tough lesson.

    Larry Bennett - Réponse

    I also used a hairdryer. I used it on the low setting and I cut a piece of carboard to protect the rest of the screen. The iFixit tool and method is vert tedious and very time consuming in comparison. With the hairdryer method you can literally have the display apart in a few minutes. Using your other hand nearby the area you are heating it should be very hot but not enough to burn your hand. You only have to heat metal part of case near glass edge. If you have a cellular model then you need to be very careful because the black antenna area is plastic. So less heat and work your way up in adding heat just enough to separate around the area but not so much you melt the plastic!

    Fixrights - Réponse

    iOpener was the worst part of the kit. Followed directions for :30 in microwave and took 4 trips to the microwave to loosen adhesive on left side of home button. I thought I was figuring it out and it was working well… even set a timer to wait 10 minutes between heating it up. Was on the right side and was on my 12th heat up when it exploded in the microwave. My only tip is that if you set it clear side up, as soon as you see any bubbles or boiling in the liquid, STOP! If you put a pot holder over the iOpener and press slightly to make good surface contact, that seemed to help. I finished heating with a “Corn Sack” that held heat better than the provided iOpener.

    digital_only - Réponse

    Mon iopener n'a pas tenu une réparation. Je ne vous conseille pas ce produit

    Berard Romain - Réponse

    Bonjour,

    Nous sommes désolés que votre réparation ne se soit pas déroulée comme prévu. Il se peut que le produit était défectueux. Veuillez contacter notre service client support@ifixit.com (boutique américaine) ou eustore@ifixit.com (boutique européenne) en décrivant ce qui s’est passé.

    Claire Rapp -

    Readers looking for temperature advice might check the comments of the previous instruction, as there are more there. I used an immersion bath to heat this to 180F and applied it to the device until the outside temperature of the opener read 150F with an IR thermometer. Removing the screen took very little force with this method.

    breadandbits - Réponse

    Thank you for posting some actual temperatures. I have a heat gun with a very fine self-temperature regulation setting capability.

    I will set it for 150-180 F, and use that to soften the adhesive.

    G Trieste -

    Get a heat gun.

    alesha adamson - Réponse

    I followed the directions and heated my iOpener for 30 seconds in a 1000 watt microwave, and it came out at 160 degrees F, as verified by a infrared thermometer. A second heating about 15 minutes later in the micro and it came out at 190 degrees F. Plenty hot enough to soften the adhesive for removing the back on my S8. Based on the comments above I think people just need to use more patience.

    Dennis - Réponse

  3. Sortez l'iOpener du micro-ondes en le tenant par l'une des deux extrémités plates, car le centre de l'outil risque d'être brûlant.
    • Sortez l'iOpener du micro-ondes en le tenant par l'une des deux extrémités plates, car le centre de l'outil risque d'être brûlant.

    • L'iOpener sera très chaud, alors soyez prudent en le manipulant. Utilisez une manique si nécessaire.

    I did this repair. I used a hair dryer, I think it works better: gets very hot fast.

    Cobus de Beer - Réponse

    Readers looking for temperature advice might check the comments of the previous instruction, as there are more there. I used an immersion bath to heat this to 180F and applied it to the device until the outside temperature of the opener read 150F with an IR thermometer. Removing the screen took very little force with this method. I don’t know how much microwaves vary in heating consistency with these pads, but knowing how inconsistent the temperature of a bowl of plain rice gets in my microwave, I wasn’t interested in even trying to use it for this.

    breadandbits - Réponse

    I used an electric griddle set to the lowest setting. It seemed to work very well.

    John - Réponse

    I vote for the hair dryer. The other methods work too but if you aren’t having any luck, switch to the hair dryer. While holding the iPad in my hand, I found that I am aiming the dryer at my finger at the same time and it gauges how hot it is. I stop when my finger can’t take it - maybe five seconds up close. Repeat as needed like I did.

    Robin - Réponse

  4. Posez un iOpener chauffé sur le bord long du S8 pendant environ 2 minutes.
    • Posez un iOpener chauffé sur le bord long du S8 pendant environ 2 minutes.

    • Vous devrez peut-être refaire chauffer et reposer l'iOpner plusieurs fois jusqu'à ce que le téléphone soit suffisamment chaud. Suivez les instructions concernant l'iOpener pour éviter de le surchauffer.

    • Si vous attendez que l'adhésif ramollisse, allez vers l'avant et lisez l'étape suivante pour voir où vous devrez faire levier.

    What type of adhesive should be used to seal? Or better said, what would you recommend.

    Ion Ion - Réponse

    I’d recommend precut adhesive designed for the rear cover. If that’s not available, thin, hi-bond double sided tape like 1 mm wide Tesa 61395 tape will work well.

    Adam O'Camb -

    Yes, different microwaves have different power levels (e.g., wattage) so one microwave may explode the iOpener after 31 seconds of heating whereas another microwave will barely warm it. It would be helpful to have a more precise target temperature. My microwave is fairly weak so I’m heating it for seven seconds for every two minutes against the phone. In theory, this should slowly add more heat than is dissipated into the phone and surrounding atmosphere.

    Brett Stime - Réponse

  5. Au cours des étapes suivantes, vous ferez céder l'adhésif autour du bord de la vitre arrière. L'adhésif est réparti dans la coque arrière comme illustré par la première image.
    • Au cours des étapes suivantes, vous ferez céder l'adhésif autour du bord de la vitre arrière.

    • L'adhésif est réparti dans la coque arrière comme illustré par la première image.

    • Le schéma d'ouverture vu de l'extérieur comprend les zones suivantes :

    • Couche épaisse d'adhésif

    • Couche fine d'adhésif

    • Évitez de faire levier ici, afin de protéger le lecteur d'empreintes digitales.

    Go clockwise (or counter-clockwise) around the border to avoid causing extra stress on the back. The bottom has a lot more adhesive than you think, towards the top-center.

    Michael M - Réponse

  6. Une fois que la coque arrière est chaude au toucher, posez une petite ventouse aussi proche que possible du bord chauffé du téléphone tout en évitant le rebord incurvé. La ventouse n'adhérera pas très bien sur la partie incurvée de la vitre, évitez donc de la poser tout au bord.
    • Une fois que la coque arrière est chaude au toucher, posez une petite ventouse aussi proche que possible du bord chauffé du téléphone tout en évitant le rebord incurvé.

    • La ventouse n'adhérera pas très bien sur la partie incurvée de la vitre, évitez donc de la poser tout au bord.

    • Soulevez la ventouse et insérez une spatule hallebarde (spudger halberd) ou un médiator sous la vitre arrière.

    • En raison de la forme incurvée de la vitre, vous devrez plus pousser l'outil vers le haut que l'insérer parallèlement à la surface du téléphone.

    We can't seem to get anything between the edges even after heating the back panel. Any tips?

    Megan Kennington - Réponse

    Hi Megan, unfortunately the adhesive is super tough on this one. I’d recommend carefully continuing to apply heat, very gradually so that you don’t accidentally overheat the battery. Eventually you should be able to get a little gap with the suction handle.

    Adam O'Camb -

    I’ve been attempting to get the adhesive to loosen for four hours now. Exactly how much time is this supposed to take? The pictures makes it look like it should be easy. The adhesive still hasn’t budged and I’m beyond frustrated.

    Lori Lucas - Réponse

    Hi Lori, sorry to hear the adhesive is being extra stubborn! If reheating and reapplying the iOpener isn’t working, you can try heating the edge with a hairdryer or heat gun. That way you can get more heat onto the edge faster, but be very careful not to overheat the battery inside.

    Adam O'Camb -

    I used a stanley knife - very carefully, after trying for several hours to get the adhesive to loosen. I bought another back cover with adhesive for the assmbley, which is the best option in my opinion. Just be careful not the scratch the case of the phone, and be prepared for the back glass cover to break when removing it.

    James wright - Réponse

    The manufacturers really want to make this impossible, huh… I’ve gone 3 years without ever cracking this phone and end up cracking the corner of the back trying to prise it open. Probably should’ve gotten a heat gun too. This is super tight.

    Benjamin Chaim - Réponse

    I am currently working on this. I have heated the phone to just barely to hot to hold. No matter how many times I've done this and pulled up with a suction cup I cannot get an edge to lift.

    Being that this is my second phone repair does anyone have advice on this? I've watched several YouTube videos and it looks so easy.

    DAVID LAWRENCE - Réponse

    I suggest you try to lift on the middle of an edge using the thinnest spudger you have. also as the edge is curved remember to insert it so to follow the curve. Hopes it helps

    Cajuteq -

    Our issue was that a small gap would open when using the iOpener, but not large enough to get spudger or opening picks in there (also tried hair dryer but same result). Luckily as a guitar player I had some very thin nylon picks that we were able to get in there, which opened up a large enough gap to get the spudger and opening picks in. From there, we were able to heat the other sides and guide the spudger around the entire edge to get the back glass off.

    First we used a Dunlop nylon .38 mm guitar pick, then a .60 mm pick, and that allowed us to get the spudger in.

    Dan Coleman - Réponse

    This is by far the hardest part of any tutorial that requires you to open the Samsung. The iOpener is totally useless on my opinion (it doesn’t get warm enough). What I did instead is use a hairdryer but it took me time before I could get the adhesive soft enough. Especially since I was not able to measure the temperature of the phone will warming it. Also I think that the halberd is not thin enough so I used a radiology sheet (don’t know the right word in English) to get into the phone and it was much more effective and time saving. Thank you for the tutorial and good luck !

    Thomas Alliot - Réponse

    Use a utility knife blade to work around the edges. Careful not to pry on the blade since you risk cracking the back

    Derek Gibson - Réponse

    I bought a back glass replacement kit with the battery kit since mine was cracked already. I used both iOpeners to uniformly heat the whole back along both long edges. I microwaved each pack twice over 10 mins. 5 mins apply, microwave, 5 minutes apply. That worked!

    William Mellema - Réponse

    Similar to other posts, this appeared simpler. I have a couple of tube socks filled with rice that we use a lot for a sore back. Put in microwave for 5 minutes and an amazing heat pack. So I thought I would try this instead of the iOpener as it just was not getting the phone warm enough. Wrapped the phone in the riced-filled-tube sock for a couple of minutes, to the point where I could at least pick it up and hold it. Also, I have the full IFIXIT kit, so I pulled out the jimmy. Viola. Got right in and then allowed me to use the halberd and picks to finish it off.

    kendrickcc - Réponse

    I was able to do this with the iOpener warming pad by microwaving for the suggested 30secs then leaving it on for 10 mins. repeated this process 2 more times for a total of 3 times @ 30 mins and used the suction tool and the picks to get it open. There is a considerable amount of adhesive on the tops and bottoms of the phone. So consider warming the whole phone before doing it.

    Note: if you already have a cracked back panel (like me) prior to starting the process, consider getting the replacement as the already cracked panel will crack even more as you are cutting away at the adhesive. Goodluck!

    Harry Williams - Réponse

    After over an hour of trying to use heat and the suction tool loosen the adhesive and try to get an opening on one of the edges, I used the blue spudger to see if it would slip thru the edge and it did. I was able to loosen the majority of the back glass but ended up getting excited and rushing and cracked the top corner. I was able to complete the battery replacement and use the cracked back glass. I’m going to order a replacement for that and that should be easier. Lesson to be learned, if any part of the back glass is getting a little tougher to loosen, hit it with heat again just to be safe. The rest of the replacement we pretty straight forward.

    MJH - Réponse

  7. Une fois que l'outil est bien inséré dans la vitre, reposez l'iOpener pour ramollir l'adhésif, après l'avoir à nouveau fait chauffer si nécessaire.
    • Une fois que l'outil est bien inséré dans la vitre, reposez l'iOpener pour ramollir l'adhésif, après l'avoir à nouveau fait chauffer si nécessaire.

    svmesung is onoff and

    moo rayner - Réponse

  8. Faites glisser la pointe de la spatule hallebarde le long du bord du téléphone pour faire céder l'adhésif. Progressez lentement afin d'éviter que la pointe glisse hors de la jointure. S'il devient difficile d'avancer, refaites chauffer et reposez l'iOpener.
    • Faites glisser la pointe de la spatule hallebarde le long du bord du téléphone pour faire céder l'adhésif.

    • Progressez lentement afin d'éviter que la pointe glisse hors de la jointure. S'il devient difficile d'avancer, refaites chauffer et reposez l'iOpener.

  9. Répétez la procédure de chauffage et de découpage pour les trois autres bords du téléphone. Laissez un médiator dans chacun des côtés quand vous passez au suivant pour éviter que l'adhésif recolle. Laissez un médiator dans chacun des côtés quand vous passez au suivant pour éviter que l'adhésif recolle.
    • Répétez la procédure de chauffage et de découpage pour les trois autres bords du téléphone.

    • Laissez un médiator dans chacun des côtés quand vous passez au suivant pour éviter que l'adhésif recolle.

    Petite erreur: le guide dit iPhone au lieu de S7 :)

    Nicolas Duthilleul - Réponse

    Bonjour Nicolas ! Merci pour la remarque ;-) Nous l’avons prise en compte et corrigé la traduction. La prochaine fois, n’hésitez pas à corriger directement en cliquant sur le bouton Traduire en haut à droite de l’étape.

    Claire Rapp -

  10. La nappe du lecteur d'empreintes digitales relie le téléphone à la vitre arrière du côté de la caméra arrière. La nappe est très courte et devrait se déconnecter lorsque vous retirez la vitre arrière. Lorsque vous soulevez la vitre, jetez un coup d'œil pour être sûr que la nappe orange au connecteur bleu s'est déconnectée.
    • La nappe du lecteur d'empreintes digitales relie le téléphone à la vitre arrière du côté de la caméra arrière. La nappe est très courte et devrait se déconnecter lorsque vous retirez la vitre arrière.

    • Lorsque vous soulevez la vitre, jetez un coup d'œil pour être sûr que la nappe orange au connecteur bleu s'est déconnectée.

    • Coupez tout adhésif restant à l'aide des médiators et ouvrez légèrement le téléphone.

    • Si la nappe du lecteur d'empreintes digitales semble rester accrochée ou est tendue, n'ouvrez pas plus le téléphone. Soulevez le connecteur et déconnectez la nappe avec la pointe d'une spatule avant de continuer.

    • Retirez la vitre arrière du téléphone.

    For reassembly, if the fingerprint scanner is removed from the back cover: it’s much easier to place the fingerprint scanner in the small compartment on the back of the phone, connect it and then finally put the replacement back cover on. The adhesive on the inside of the back cover will get connect to the fingerprint scanner and hold it tightly.

    Brian Hoffmann - Réponse

    The NFC antenna and coil assembly might get stick to the back cover due to adhesive spreads while trying to pry the back cover to open the phone. Take a look inside to ensure the assebly has not got sticked. If so, try using a credit card like plastic to get it peeled of from back cover without breaking the assembly always paying attention to the fingerprint sensor as well.

    dcode - Réponse

  11. Avant de remplacer la vitre arrière, vous devez retirer tous les résidus d'adhésif de la partie principale du téléphone.
    • Avant de remplacer la vitre arrière, vous devez retirer tous les résidus d'adhésif de la partie principale du téléphone.

    • Une fois les résidus d'adhésif enlevés, nettoyez les bords du téléphone avec de l'alcool isopropylique à haute concentration (au moins 90 %) et appliquez une nouvelle couche d'adhésif.

    Bonjour,

    Vous parlez d’ajouter de l’adhésif, comment et où le trouve-t-on cet adhésif ?

    Difficile à appliquer ?

    Cordialement,

    Stéphane

    Steph D - Réponse

    Mille excuses, je viens de voir les “adhesive strips” :)

    Steph D - Réponse

    I broke the rear glass trying to get all the adhesive off! Be very careful!!

    jimhunz - Réponse

    Be careful with the NFC Antenna/Charging Coil Assembly. It’s covered in a black wrapping that can look like adhesive. Don’t scratch too hard with the spudger, the wrapping will come off!

    Michael M - Réponse

    Hello, I appreciate that tuto, very detailed for a somewhat subtle job . Is it possible to use one of the 7000 or 8000 glues in place of the adhesive Stickers ? Thanks

    Isaac OLEG - Réponse

  12. Dévissez onze vis de 3,7 mm.
    • Dévissez onze vis de 3,7 mm.

    Are all the screws the same size? I do not have a way to organize every little screw and part of this phone.

    Gavin Clark - Réponse

    Hi Gavin, all the screws in this step are 3.7 mm long, so you can safely swap these screws with one another.

    Adam O'Camb -

  13. Retirez le module antenne NFC et chargeur sans fil. Retirez le module antenne NFC et chargeur sans fil.
    • Retirez le module antenne NFC et chargeur sans fil.

    I had to pry off the NFC antenna and charging coil assembly from the back cover. The adhesive probably spread a little bit while prying around the phone sticking some part of the NCF antenna and coild assembly sticked to the back cover. I had to use a credit card like pice of plastic to get it unsticked from the back cover without bearking it.

    dcode - Réponse

    This doesn’t really cover the last step of removing the NFC antenna/charge coil pad from the upper removable frame segment. Those two components separate and the new one adheres back onto that upper frame section. While its fairly self explanatory, it would be nice to have an illustration of that separation.

    JPagel - Réponse

  14. Dévissez trois vis cruciformes #000 de 3,7 mm.
    • Dévissez trois vis cruciformes #000 de 3,7 mm.

  15. Ôtez l'ensemble haut-parleur.
    • Ôtez l'ensemble haut-parleur.

  16. Insérez un éjecteur de carte SIM dans le petit trou sur la gauche du bord supérieur du téléphone. Appuyez pour éjecter le tiroir. Retirez le tiroir de la carte SIM du téléphone.
    • Insérez un éjecteur de carte SIM dans le petit trou sur la gauche du bord supérieur du téléphone.

    • Appuyez pour éjecter le tiroir.

    • Retirez le tiroir de la carte SIM du téléphone.

    • Quand vous remettez la carte SIM, assurez-vous qu'elle est dans la bonne direction par rapport au tiroir.

    Vielen Dank!

    Ist die SIM+SDcard-Tray vom Samsung Galaxy S8 und Samsung Galaxy S8 Plus gleich?

    Bzw. kann ich eine SIM+SDcard-Tray von einem Samsung Galaxy S8 in einem Samsung Galaxy S8 Plus verwenden?

    Photelegy - Réponse

  17. Utilisez l'extrémité plate d'une spatule pour déconnecter le connecteur de la batterie. Bien que la batterie est disparue dans les étapes suivantes, vous n'avez pas besoin de la retirer pour ce tutoriel. Déconnectez-la juste et allez de l'avant.
    • Utilisez l'extrémité plate d'une spatule pour déconnecter le connecteur de la batterie.

    • Bien que la batterie est disparue dans les étapes suivantes, vous n'avez pas besoin de la retirer pour ce tutoriel. Déconnectez-la juste et allez de l'avant.

    I noticed that due to the no lead soldering used today, even a 24 pins socket for a connector can be stripped if no prying tool is used to disconnect it. Soldering back implies having a binocular or good microscope and is not really easy

    Isaac OLEG - Réponse

  18. Avec l'extrémité plate d'une spatule, déconnectez le connecteur de la rangée des capteurs. Avec l'extrémité plate d'une spatule, déconnectez le connecteur de la rangée des capteurs.
    • Avec l'extrémité plate d'une spatule, déconnectez le connecteur de la rangée des capteurs.

  19. Avec l'extrémité plate d'une spatule, déconnectez le connecteur de la caméra frontale. Avec l'extrémité plate d'une spatule, déconnectez le connecteur de la caméra frontale.
    • Avec l'extrémité plate d'une spatule, déconnectez le connecteur de la caméra frontale.

  20. Avec l'extrémité plate d'une spatule, déconnectez le connecteur de l'écran et de la vitre tactile. Avec l'extrémité plate d'une spatule, déconnectez le connecteur de l'écran et de la vitre tactile.
    • Avec l'extrémité plate d'une spatule, déconnectez le connecteur de l'écran et de la vitre tactile.

  21. Avec la pointe d'une spatule, déconnectez les deux câbles d'antenne qui relient la carte mère à la carte fille. Avec la pointe d'une spatule, déconnectez les deux câbles d'antenne qui relient la carte mère à la carte fille. Avec la pointe d'une spatule, déconnectez les deux câbles d'antenne qui relient la carte mère à la carte fille.
    • Avec la pointe d'une spatule, déconnectez les deux câbles d'antenne qui relient la carte mère à la carte fille.

  22. Avec l'extrémité plate d'une spatule, déconnectez la nappe d'antenne qui relie la carte mère à la carte fille. Avec l'extrémité plate d'une spatule, déconnectez la nappe d'antenne qui relie la carte mère à la carte fille.
    • Avec l'extrémité plate d'une spatule, déconnectez la nappe d'antenne qui relie la carte mère à la carte fille.

  23. Avec l'extrémité plate d'une spatule, soulevez la carte mère et déconnectez-la de la carte fille. Avec l'extrémité plate d'une spatule, soulevez la carte mère et déconnectez-la de la carte fille.
    • Avec l'extrémité plate d'une spatule, soulevez la carte mère et déconnectez-la de la carte fille.

  24. Retirez la carte mère du téléphone. Veillez à ne pas abîmer le connecteur de la batterie, si vous ne voulez pas remplacer la batterie.
    • Retirez la carte mère du téléphone.

    • Veillez à ne pas abîmer le connecteur de la batterie, si vous ne voulez pas remplacer la batterie.

    Comment enlever l'appareil photo arrière ?

    Easy Repair - Réponse

    Gracias nueva mente por sus aportaciones. Son lo máximo.

    NELSON ESTREMERA - Réponse

  25. Insérez l'extrémité pointue d'une spatule (spudger) dans le coin de l'ensemble capteurs, entre la coque et l'ensemble. Faites levier. Retirez l'ensemble capteurs. Retirez l'ensemble capteurs.
    • Insérez l'extrémité pointue d'une spatule (spudger) dans le coin de l'ensemble capteurs, entre la coque et l'ensemble. Faites levier.

    • Retirez l'ensemble capteurs.

Conclusion

Pour remonter votre appareil, posez une couche d'adhésif, puis suivez les instructions en sens inverse.

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Adam O'Camb

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My girlfriend’s GPS doesn’t work at all and additionally when she rotates the phone the screen doesn’t rotate at the same time (i.e. when in the gallery, photos don’t go from portrait to landscape). Would that be controlled by this, and would replacing it potentially fix it? (I’ve tried software fixes but they gave me no joy and a Samsung employee suggested it might be a hardware problem).

Pat - Réponse

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