Aller au contenu principal

Réparez vos affaires

Droit à la réparation

Pièces & Outils

Introduction

Suivez les étapes de ce tutoriel pour remplacer la nappe du connecteur de charge Lightning d'un iPhone. Cette nappe inclut le connecteur Lightning, la prise Jack, les doubles microphones, les contacts à ressort du Taptic Engine et le haut-parleur.

  1. Avant de démonter votre iPhone, déchargez la batterie en dessous de 25%. Une batterie lithium-ion chargée peut prendre feu et / ou exploser si elle est accidentellement percée.
    • Avant de démonter votre iPhone, déchargez la batterie en dessous de 25%. Une batterie lithium-ion chargée peut prendre feu et / ou exploser si elle est accidentellement percée.

    • Éteignez votre iPhone avant de commencer son démontage.

    • Retirez les deux vis Pentalobe P2 de 3,4 mm situées au bord inférieur de l'iPhone, de part et d'autre du connecteur Lightning.

    Hi, just got the repair kit that came with IPhone 6S battery. I felt that there’s no explanation on which tool to use to remove the two 3.4mm P2 Pentalobe screws. It’s not helpful just to say “Remove the two 3.4 mm P2 Pentalobe screws on the bottom edge of the iPhone, next to the Lightning connector. “. It’s more important to explain how and what tool to use. The repair tool kit tools were not marked at all and it’s not right to assume that people know which tool or part to use. Please kindly address this issue. Thanks. Janet

    Janet Monaghen - Réponse

    @beingchen For the P2 pentalobe screws you should use the driver bit marked P2. Might be a little hard to see but it’s there, etched into the side of the bit.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    It’s very clear which tool you need. As it says these are “3.4 mm P2 Pentalobe screws” - so you need a 3.4 mm P2 Pentalobe screwdriver…

    alexanderbrix1987 - Réponse

    Just a P2 driver—3.4 mm is the length of the screw.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    If you can’t identify which screwdriver in the kit to use, you probably shouldn’t be working on your phone. Just sayin’

    Keith Hockenbeck - Réponse

    Is it ok to replace the battery if the phone screen is broken?

    Reem - Réponse

    Of course! As long as the screen and battery are disconnected from the motherboard, you can replace anything!

    Charles Bejarano -

    is it possible to change my battery on my iphone 6s and use a battery that has been already used in another 6s

    morgan durnford - Réponse

    Yeah it would work, but if the battery heath on the 2nd battery is bad, just get a new one.

    Charles Bejarano -

    @moe6802 Removing the battery can damage it, and it shouldn’t be used afterward. It may seem fine, but even minor battery damage can lead to a fire hazard. Not worth it for such a cheap part. If you need a battery, just get a new one.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    How do you discharge a battery? Do you just let the battery drain or is there something less time consuming that you can do?

    Matthew Petts - Réponse

    There is no easy way to discharge the battery in “less time”. Perhaps the fastest way is to play a visually-complex modern game or otherwise make your phone do a lot of work.

    Lance J -

    So my phone screen is completely black causing me to see nothing that is on my screen. And the battery is above 25%, near 100%. What do I do??

    Jessica I - Réponse

    you should post a question on the answers forum

    Max Li -

    you should post a question on the answers forum

    Max Li - Réponse

    I can’t the screws with the P2, seems that the screws are stuck, what can i do?

    Alberto Jabiles - Réponse

    My kit came with 3 screws. Are those to replace these 2 P2 screws? And what’s the third one for?

    Daniel Morse - Réponse

    If it came with 3 screws, then it’s an extra one just in case if a replacement screw gets lost.

    Charles Bejarano -

    My display is cracked/broken and not functioning. The slide bar doesn’t work. How do I shut down my phone?

    Timothy Huss - Réponse

  2. Vous pouvez aussi utiliser un iOpener ou un sèche-cheveux pour chauffer très légèrement le bord inférieur de l'iPhone pendant une minute.
    • Vous pouvez aussi utiliser un iOpener ou un sèche-cheveux pour chauffer très légèrement le bord inférieur de l'iPhone pendant une minute.

    • La chaleur permet de ramollir la colle qui fixe l'écran facilitant ainsi l'ouverture.

    What about specifying the hot air temperature?

    Nicola Centrone - Réponse

    The glue softens pretty easily, so the exact temperature isn’t critical. Get it slightly too hot to touch. If you have trouble, heat it a little more and try again.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    What temperature on the screen separator lcd machine and for how long?

    Manraj Gulati - Réponse

    This is the first time I opened my 6s since it was purchased new four years ago. Even without heat, constant and firm works enough to be able to squeeze the flat edge of the spudger. From that point and without any additional pulling from the suction, twist the spudger gently to “walk” it open on both sides.

    Family Juinio - Réponse

    I used a hand towel folded in half and a clothes iron on the cotton setting (med-high heat, no steam). Placing the doubled towel between the phone and the iron, I would set the iron down for about 20 seconds (my iron has a timer that beeps when left horizontal for too long). Lift the iron, check the temperature (aiming for just too hot to touch), reposition as needed, repeat. It took me a while, but that’s because I took my time not knowing how fast this would heat. All-in-all, about 2 minutes to reach the right temperature to loosen the adhesive (it IS tenacious).

    Sarah Wruck - Réponse

  3. L'ouverture de l'écran sur le 6s sépare une mince bande d'adhésif autour du périmètre de l'écran. Si vous préférez remplacer l'adhésif, préparez un ensemble de nouvelles bandes adhésives avant de continuer.
    • L'ouverture de l'écran sur le 6s sépare une mince bande d'adhésif autour du périmètre de l'écran. Si vous préférez remplacer l'adhésif, préparez un ensemble de nouvelles bandes adhésives avant de continuer.

    • Il est possible d'effectuer la réparation sans remplacer l'adhésif, et vous ne remarquerez probablement pas de différence dans les fonctionnalités.

    • Appliquez une ventouse sur le coin inférieur gauche de l'écran.

    • Prenez soin de ne pas placer la ventouse sur le bouton Home.

    Hello, I was wondering if there was a guide of how to replace the adhesive strips, thank you

    Pablo Reyes - Réponse

    The suction cup will not work if you have a shattered screen. I put a tip of an exacto knife between the glass and side frame above the power connector, carefully pried up then used the spluger to pry the rest of the way up.

    johnmurphyjr - Réponse

    Tape will work as well in order to create a smooth surface

    Nick Stine -

    Even tape didn’t work on my first shattered screen 6S disassembly. Had to reset to the exacto/thin blade technique.

    Peter Bovey - Réponse

    For me, it seemed like I only had one shot at the suction cup. It stuck on firmly the first time, but I noticed in the instructions that it was placed more on the side. I detached my suction cup and repositioned it and now it doesn’t stay (sucked) on. Hmmm.

    Frank Terence - Réponse

    Can you use the iSclack opener to open the iPhone 6s?

    Joe Koffee - Réponse

    The iSclack is helpful, although you have to use it a bit differently than you would on, say, a 5s or 6. The iSclack alone isn’t strong enough to pop the display open, because of all the adhesive around the perimeter of the 6s display. But you can use it to lift the display just enough to get a tool in there and start cutting the adhesive. Basically, the iSclack does the same job as the suction cup shown here, with maybe a bit less fuss.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    My screen was SUPER shattered… the hair dryer did the trick. Patience it definitely the key… I tried putting tape over the glass but the suction cup wouldn’t stick to it at all but it stuck to the broken glass for a few seconds. I taped it up when I was finally able to move onto the next steps to keep the glass from getting everywhere then peeled it off for Step 10.

    Mandy Ng - Réponse

    Hi, it looks like, from reading the comments, that separating the display assembly from the phone is a tricky step.

    Would the piece of equipment, in the link below, be any use at this stage? Seems it could be used for all makes and models.

    Any info would be appreciated.

    https://youtu.be/8it4o9tx8tQ

    Michael - Réponse

    I have a screen protector on my phone. I was wondering if it was going to be problem for the suction cup.

    jeffreyleung2002 - Réponse

    I can only suggest to use a hair dryer to loosen up the adhesive underneath the display. Mine was stuck so hard it wouldn't barely move. After warming ist up I could softly pull ist up with way less power

    olonetzky - Réponse

    A question, has anyone had success removing a cracked (not shattered) screen? My phone has a single diagonal crack from the top right corner down to the left side. Will the suction cup still work?

    goblazers - Réponse

  4. Tirez sur la ventouse avec une pression ferme et constante pour ouvrir un léger espace entre le panneau avant et le boîtier arrière. Prenez votre temps et appliquez une force ferme et constante. L'écran complet a un ajustement beaucoup plus serré que la plupart des appareils et est maintenu enfoncé à l'aide d'un adhésif.
    • Tirez sur la ventouse avec une pression ferme et constante pour ouvrir un léger espace entre le panneau avant et le boîtier arrière.

    • Prenez votre temps et appliquez une force ferme et constante. L'écran complet a un ajustement beaucoup plus serré que la plupart des appareils et est maintenu enfoncé à l'aide d'un adhésif.

    • Tirer trop fort peut endommager l'écran. Appliquez juste assez de pression pour créer un petit espace entre l'écran et le boîtier arrière.

    • Si vous avez des difficultés, faites chauffer l'avant de l'iPhone à l'aide d'un iOpener, d'un sèche-cheveux ou d'un pistolet à air chaud, jusqu'à ce qu'il soit légèrement trop chaud au toucher. Ceci permet de ramollir la colle qui fixe les bords de l'écran.

    No, really. Do this on a table and use less strength than you think. If you open the display the whole way at this step you can easily rip the home button connections and one of several display connections at the top. <— too much experience... :(

    chuymatt - Réponse

    Wow, that was tough. Patience, patience, patience. Did not use the iOpener, just firm and consistent pulling with the phone on a flat surface. When the suction cup comes off... clean the display surface and go back at it. I did use the pointed end of a spudger inserted into the headphone jack to hold down the bottom case whilst I pulled on the suction cup. Once there was sufficient room (see next step) you can just get the spudger (flat end) to slide in slightly.

    plisi - Réponse

    If you're lifting up on the glass, how are you supposed to hold the rest of the phone down? Is it by holding the camera end down with the side of your hand and rotating your hand, or using your other hand (not pictured) on the edges (seems very difficult), or using a spudger in a jack?

    Bryan - Réponse

    I got a fingernail on the metal edge and that did the trick.

    David Heinbach -

    On the 6s, which has an annoying black adhesive strip holding the display assembly on, I use the iSclack to loosen a very small area near the home button then insert a thin spudger and gently twist it a bit to release the adhesive. Do this around the bottom and both sides of the phone to release the screen. I usually have to break some of the adhesive strands when the opening is big enough.

    scentaur - Réponse

    My spudgers just too thick for initial insertion. In the end, fingernail on my thumb got me started, and I was able to get plastic picks in there to work it. The microwavable iOpener gel strip really helped.

    Heidi Moser - Réponse

    Thanks plisi, your comments are helpful. I had to apply pressure several different times. Didnt realize until about the seventh time applying pressure that what I was doing was slowly loosening the adhesive. Patience is truly the key with this step. You may not think you're progressing but it's slowly prying away.

    amylofton - Réponse

    What happens if the cup won't even stick to the display because it is cracked and it will not hold air near the bottom of the phone?

    Jaredrett - Réponse

    hey everyone, i just did my first iphone 6S display...after many 5, 5c, and 5s iphones...just keep trying and carefully insert the spunger where they said...right around the headphone jack. The black adhesive makes it very tough to get it off unless you work at one corner. Be careful...but you can do it! ;-)

    David Althaus - Réponse

    Use a razor, and go along the outside of the phone carevilly using the razor as a spudger. it will efficiently cut and weaken the adhesive while spudging the screen away from the frame. only takes 15 mins.... Use a workbench razor, not a flimsy one. If possible, use one where one side of the razor has a gaurd on it for better grip. Take it slow and try not to scratch the frame. Lots of pressure and patience is key!!!

    Goodluck!!

    -J

    Jaredrett - Réponse

    The first time you pull it apart there's black glue tape that you'll have to compete with to get it open. Be careful

    Jeff - Réponse

    Use a hairdryer about 2-3 inches from the phone on high heat for about a minute, moving the dryer the entire time. The phone opened for me in less than a minute after trying for several minutes without heating up the phone.

    Todd Leach - Réponse

    Careful ..delicate work. I also used a hot hair dryer around the perimeter for just a couple minutes to help loosen the adhesive bond. I then used my sadly short finger nail to help loosen the edge. I placed dental floss under the corner & carefully lifted the display very very slowly. This worked within about 3 minutes. As mentioned earlier the adhesive used in the iPhone 6s is very strong but this routine worked like a charm & was quick!

    Mary Blocher - Réponse

    Much easier to do using the Spudger that is provided in the Pro Tool Kit. It has a thinner fin type head. The Spudger provided in this repair kit is definitely too thick and makes it far more difficult.

    Tyler Brady - Réponse

    The spudger is too thick and the glue is too strong. Pulling up broke the glass below the power button. Now I am out $200 for a repair, plus a battery. Bummer. I am VERY good at repairing things. The adhesive on this is very very strong. The pentalobe tip that they send with the kits not milled well and I had to take a file and flatten the tip to get it to work - it is not finished well at all. I used the kit for the iPhone 6 for my Mom and had no problem. I am 51 and have been fixing things since I was very young.

    greghabiby - Réponse

    Well, I shattered my screen trying to do this. So now I need a battery and screen repair. Not happy.

    Carolann Parran - Réponse

    Me too! Be gentle!

    Matthew Simoenau -

    Me as well, I went very slowly, was working the spudger around the edge and then it shattered. Just going to buy a replacement phone and I was replacing the battery to gift this to my sister as a hand-me-down and now it’s not worth it. Perhaps I can sell the kit second hand…

    kpederso -

    Removing the display was the hardest part of the whole job. The adhesive is very strong, but just be patient. What I ended up doing was to use the suction cup, the flat end of the spudger, and an iFixit opening tool. I used the suction cup on the screen as directed. Then I placed the flat end of the spudger just a bit into the charging port and held down the phone body by the spudger on my work mat. I pulled up on the suction cup, pushed down on the spudger, and inserted the thin iFixit opening tool in the small seperation. I took my time and worked my way around all of the edges. After that it was really easy. I was able to reuse the adhesive, and my new battery install went just as planned.

    Eric Olson - Réponse

    Use a hair dryer as per the suggestions and this will definitely make the job easier and reducing the risk of breaking the display . Keep a steady pull of the display, don’t rush and it will start to show the small separation gap. An issue is that it will go back in place if you stop pulling before you can use the spudger tool. The suction tool that came with my repair kit did not have a ring on it as per the guide picture. It has a blue handle that is open on the side. I sat at my kitchen desk and opened a drawer. I hooked the open edge of the suction handle around the drawer side edge which me a third hand. I held the phone with one hand and pulled it away from the desk drawer. Once the separation started I could use my other hand with the flat edge of the spudger to complete the separation. Hope this helps.

    emaneht - Réponse

    Hair dryer - 1 minute until it’s hot like a fresh mug of coffee. Then as soon as you see the smallest gap, insert a razor blade above the phones jack, I needed to slide it towards the charge port and back. Once it slips in keep it there and use your spudger to enlarge the gap and slide it along the corners.

    Steve Esson - Réponse

    Yes, I used the tip of a sharp knife as a pry tool to get me started. Since the screen was cracked anyway I figured I had nothing to lose. It went fine.

    David Heinbach -

    Also tried it with the hair dryer - worked like a charm. 5 Minutes and the phone was open. The whole repair procedure took me about 45 minutes, and was ok. Re-assembling the three display-connectors has been a bit tricky, but with careful movements and taking the time it needs it was not a big problem. New display is very good, phone looks like new :-)

    Christian Woelk - Réponse

    My glass was broken and the suction cup wouldn’t hold on the tape. I used a very thin knife an slowly worked between the glass and the phone frame. Please keep in mind that my phone had been run over by a Ford F150, so I really had nothing to lose.

    Michael Cleveland - Réponse

  5. Il y a une encoche sur la face inférieure de l'écran, juste au-dessus de la prise de casque. Ceci est l'endroit le plus sûr pour commencer à ouvrir le téléphone. Placez l'extrémité plate d'un spudger dans l'espace entre l'écran et le boîtier arrière directement au-dessus de la prise casque.
    • Il y a une encoche sur la face inférieure de l'écran, juste au-dessus de la prise de casque. Ceci est l'endroit le plus sûr pour commencer à ouvrir le téléphone.

    • Placez l'extrémité plate d'un spudger dans l'espace entre l'écran et le boîtier arrière directement au-dessus de la prise casque.

    WARNING: easy to stretch/ruin the adhesive

    As you proceed, know that you must keep ALL of the adhesive stuck to the phone. If any stays stuck to display, it can become permanently stretched as you are prying and lifting. Then you’ll need to buy the replacement adhesive, once it’s back in stock!

    Jason - Réponse

    If you’re opening the phone at all, you’re compromising the adhesive. There is absolutely no way to somehow open it perfectly so you can re-use it. Fortunately, it’s cheap and fairly easy to replace—and not even that critical on the 6s series anyway, since it’s not doing any real waterproofing.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    I had a badly cracked screen. Packing tape helped the suction cup stick. Heating the phone helped soften the adhesive, and in the end I pried the screen up at the headphone jack with a sharp pointy knife. That helped me get the spudger underneath. Not recommended if the screen is ok, like for a battery replacement, but mine was cracked so I figured I had nothing to lose. Great guide.

    David Heinbach - Réponse

    There are two relatively delicate brackets that the two P2 Pentalobe screws screw into. They can be easily bent during this prying open process. I ruined one on my phone and I’m hoping the phone will function with just one bracket.

    dougdalglish - Réponse

  6. Tournez le spudger pour accroître l'écart entre  le panneau frontal complet et le reste du téléphone. Tournez le spudger pour accroître l'écart entre  le panneau frontal complet et le reste du téléphone.
    • Tournez le spudger pour accroître l'écart entre le panneau frontal complet et le reste du téléphone.

    No need to turn the spudger full 90°. Just turn it a little.

    Martin Born - Réponse

  7. Insérez l'extrémité plate du spudger sur le côté gauche du téléphone entre l'écran et le boîtier arrière. Faites glisser le spudger sur le côté du téléphone pour séparer l'adhésif et faire sauter les clips.
    • Insérez l'extrémité plate du spudger sur le côté gauche du téléphone entre l'écran et le boîtier arrière.

    • Faites glisser le spudger sur le côté du téléphone pour séparer l'adhésif et faire sauter les clips.

    I’ve found it very easy to open the phone with one of the blue opening picks.

    Just slide it along the left and right side of the display.

    Martin Born - Réponse

    Excellent idea. No matter which tool you use take your time so not to damage the display assembly further. Even a cracked screen is a great test tool or spare to use while doing other repairs when it still comes on.

    Bryan Solo -

    Do not go into the top left corner too far your screen will crack i learned the hard way

    Kevin - Réponse

  8. Retirez le spudger et le réinserrez-le sur le bord inférieur où vous avez ouvert le téléphone. Faites glisser le spudger vers la droite, le long du bord inférieur du téléphone.
    • Retirez le spudger et le réinserrez-le sur le bord inférieur où vous avez ouvert le téléphone.

    • Faites glisser le spudger vers la droite, le long du bord inférieur du téléphone.

  9. Faites glisser le spudger sur le côté droit afin de continuer à séparer l'adhésif et faire sauter les clips de l'écran de l'iPhone. Faites glisser le spudger sur le côté droit afin de continuer à séparer l'adhésif et faire sauter les clips de l'écran de l'iPhone.
    • Faites glisser le spudger sur le côté droit afin de continuer à séparer l'adhésif et faire sauter les clips de l'écran de l'iPhone.

    This is some important step here I reckon. I didn’t release the clips individually and gradually, so when I pulled, the two halves of the phone separated quite suddenly and the cables ripped in half. Had to order a screen.

    Neil Bass - Réponse

  10. Utilisez la ventouse pour ouvrir l'écran, tout en rompant le dernier adhésif. Ne pas ouvrir l'écran à plus de 90º car il est toujours connecté en haut par trois nappes qui peuvent se déchirer si on tire trop dessus.
    • Utilisez la ventouse pour ouvrir l'écran, tout en rompant le dernier adhésif.

    • Ne pas ouvrir l'écran à plus de 90º car il est toujours connecté en haut par trois nappes qui peuvent se déchirer si on tire trop dessus.

    Prop it up on something

    Nick Stine - Réponse

    an old iPhone box and a rubber band lightly around the display works great to hold it at 90

    Christa - Réponse

  11. Tirez sur la petite surélévation en plastique sur le côté de la ventouse pour la retirer du panneau frontal. Tirez sur la petite surélévation en plastique sur le côté de la ventouse pour la retirer du panneau frontal.
    • Tirez sur la petite surélévation en plastique sur le côté de la ventouse pour la retirer du panneau frontal.

  12. Saisissez doucement l'écran et soulevez-le pour ouvrir le téléphone, en utilisant les clips en haut de la face avant comme une charnière. Ouvrez l'écran à environ 90 ° et le posez-le contre quelque chose pour le garder calé pendant que vous travaillez sur le téléphone. Ajoutez une bande de caoutchouc pour maintenir l'écran bien en place pendant que vous travaillez. Cela évite de forcer sur les nappes de l'écran.
    • Saisissez doucement l'écran et soulevez-le pour ouvrir le téléphone, en utilisant les clips en haut de la face avant comme une charnière.

    • Ouvrez l'écran à environ 90 ° et le posez-le contre quelque chose pour le garder calé pendant que vous travaillez sur le téléphone.

    • Ajoutez une bande de caoutchouc pour maintenir l'écran bien en place pendant que vous travaillez. Cela évite de forcer sur les nappes de l'écran.

    • À la limite, vous pouvez utiliser une canette de boisson fermée pour maintenir l'écran.

    Smart idea :)

    x226 - Réponse

    on the third picture, the screen is opened more than 90 degrees.

    Mirza Zohaib - Réponse

    It said about 90 degrees

    Nick Stine -

    Actually it literally says, “Don't open the display more than 90º, as it is still connected at the top by three cables that may break if stretched.”

    David -

    In the second picture I was originally wondering what that diagonal piece of material was. Now that I've done a repair I can say that it's the sticky adhesive around the edge of the phone lifting up with the screen.

    jonl - Réponse

    Be careful when separating the halves not to pull off the black tape on the back of the screen half. Mine was stuck to the two halves and I thought it was double sided tape to holding the halves together. It was shredded in separating the 2 halves. It turns out it covers up some kindof of silver paste (purpose unknown) on the back of the screen so I cut a put a piece of plastic film to match it and taped it in place. We’ll see what happens…

    Jamey Gerlaugh - Réponse

    can of soup and rubber band did the trick.

    Big Al - Réponse

  13. Retirez les deux vis cruciformes maintenant la fixation du connecteur de batterie :
    • Retirez les deux vis cruciformes maintenant la fixation du connecteur de batterie :

    • Une vis de 2,9 mm

    • Une vis de 2,2 mm

    In order to put the correct screw back where you took it out mark the head surface and a small dot beside the hole with a pen. Use coloured pens if you want the exact location for each screw/hole. This goes for steps 17, (23) and 29 too.

    lionno1 - Réponse

    Please! Please! Please! Invest in a Magnetic Project Mat or its equivalent from fixit. It will assist you with completing your repair.

    Ian Baldwin - Réponse

    I just taped down a 8.5 x 11 white piece of paper on my desk and drew a rough image of it, then ‘taped’ the screw I removed to the “image” on paper. It worked just fine. (My first time ever opening an iphone, so give it a shot!)

    italianchick99 - Réponse

    If you missed it from the beginning (like I did) it’s the #000 Philips for all screws except the Pentalobes.

    Max Cox - Réponse

    if you get a plastic ice cube tray, and a fine marker pen, text the sizes on each cube compartment as you follow the guide, also stops the screws getting lost

    Brendan Cranny - Réponse

    used sheet of A4 paper and bluetak - stick screw in bluetak, write location & size on paper

    Kev Salmon - Réponse

  14. Retirez la fixation du connecteur de batterie de l'iPhone. Retirez la fixation du connecteur de batterie de l'iPhone.
    • Retirez la fixation du connecteur de batterie de l'iPhone.

    Little bit of adhesive holds this down- you do have to use the tiniest bit of force.

    Edward Coe - Réponse

    Pay careful attention to the orientation of this plate so that when it comes to re-installation you put it back the correct way. Sounds obvious but I’ve found it inverted in one customer’s phone, which led symptoms of charging failures and repeated spontaneous restarts.

    Jonathan Bradley - Réponse

  15. Utilisez la pointe d'une spatule (spudger) pour déconnecter le connecteur de batterie de la carte mère en faisant levier. Utilisez la pointe d'une spatule (spudger) pour déconnecter le connecteur de batterie de la carte mère en faisant levier. Utilisez la pointe d'une spatule (spudger) pour déconnecter le connecteur de batterie de la carte mère en faisant levier.
    • Utilisez la pointe d'une spatule (spudger) pour déconnecter le connecteur de batterie de la carte mère en faisant levier.

    Be sure not to skip this step. It is crucial. I have had many repairs where the screen will not light up after the repair if the battery had not been disconnected and reconnected.

    Andrew spoelstra - Réponse

    Thanks for the tip, Andrew.

    William Turner -

    It should also be mentioned, DO NOT USE A METAL SPUDGER. You could short the battery to other nearby metal parts. I've done that, the battery clip arced to the metal cover on some of the logic board chips, and my phone wouldn't power back on for 3 days. They should put a caution caption on this step. I've had this happen on a 5S as well.

    Frank - Réponse

    Thanks for the tip, Frank.

    William Turner -

    SERIOUS WARNING!: During *reassembly*, you should NOT reconnect the battery connector until the VERY LAST step (upon reassembly!), as many people, including myself, apparently have smoked (burned, destroyed) the main Logic board. This happens when you reconnect the LCD/digitizer assembly FPC cable. ifixit should modify this instruction to be very explicit about this!

    enoughstatic - Réponse

    It sounds like several people, including myself, had trouble charging the new replacement battery past about 10%. This ended up being due to the new battery not having a non-conductive insulator. The way to solve this is by adding a small piece of electrical tape to cover the battery connector before screwing in the battery connector bracket over it. You may want to do this on the first go-around.

    If you do experience that problem, I found the answer here and it worked perfectly: iPhone battery not charging after DIY battery replacement. Why?

    Heather Pastushok - Réponse

    Thanks to Heather Pastushok (and Behrang Mohajer at “iPhone battery not charging . . .) for this important detail. My iFixit battery came with a thin layer of black foam insulation on the top surface of the battery connector, but even gentle pressure from a blunt plastic tool (pushing the connector in place) scraped an exposed spot. A carefully trimmed piece of black electrician's tape provided peace of mind. The iPhone 6s is good as new with the battery now at 100%!

    Robert Dering - Réponse

    Thanks to Heather Pastushok (and Behrang Mohajer at “iPhone battery not charging . . .) for this important detail. My iFixit battery came with a thin layer of black foam insulation on the top surface of the battery connector, but even gentle pressure from a blunt plastic tool (pushing the connector in place) scraped an exposed spot. A carefully trimmed piece of black electrician's tape provided peace of mind. The iPhone 6s is good as new with the battery now at 100%!

    Robert Dering - Réponse

    To reduce risk of battery arcing , as soon as the old battery connector was detached, I wrapped it with insulation from connection all the way to the battery body. Did the same with the new battery to eliminate concerns about shorts while checking fit position to assure the connector would match up with the receiver. Only removed the insulation after all other connections had been restored, so plugging in the battery was the last step before closing the case.

    Robert Dering - Réponse

  16. Eloignez le connecteur de batterie de la carte mère afin qu'il reste séparé de sa prise, pour éviter toute connexion accidentelle à la batterie lors de la réparation. Eloignez le connecteur de batterie de la carte mère afin qu'il reste séparé de sa prise, pour éviter toute connexion accidentelle à la batterie lors de la réparation.
    • Eloignez le connecteur de batterie de la carte mère afin qu'il reste séparé de sa prise, pour éviter toute connexion accidentelle à la batterie lors de la réparation.

    If you remove the grey bar with the word “TAPTIC” next, removal of the battery adhesive is much easier. It can be pulled straighter back with less chance of tearing. Here’s an image with the securing screws identified.

    If you securely anchor the screen to a can of soup, it is not necessary complete step 16 Front Panel Assembly. I was able to remove the two bottom (1.2 mm) screws and the 2.8 mm screw, but could not get the upper (1.2 mm) screw. I was able to remove the old battery with the Front Panel Assembly left in place.

    Edward Dziuk - Réponse

    Amazing tip Edward, I followed your tip exactly and agree to definitely remove the “TAPTIC”

    italianchick99 -

    Hi what it is called black cover between battery connector and sim card tray? Thanks

    Rajendra - Réponse

  17. Retirez les quatre vis cruciformes suivantes fixant le support de la nappe d'écran :
    • Retirez les quatre vis cruciformes suivantes fixant le support de la nappe d'écran :

    • Trois vis de 1,2 mm

    • Une vis de 2,8 mm

    Thank you for this great guide!

    I was able to skip removing the display assembly and logic board steps and lay the speaker upside down on the bottom edge of the logic board without putting undue pressure on the antenna cable making this a much easier and quicker repair for me. If you choose to leave the display assembly connected, I recommend using a rubber band to hold it to a box of similar size at a 90 degree angle to prevent damage and stress to the attached cables.

    So, the steps I skipped were Steps 16 through 34 and Steps 37 through 45.

    scentaur - Réponse

    The 1.2mm screw in the top left corner is refusing to come out, any help?

    Harry Allinson - Réponse

    I’m also having this issue now, what did you do to get the screw out?

    Belmin Husanovic -

    why does the battery fix kit not include the #00 bit needed to unscrew all 3 1.2mm screws?!?! !#^&@@ off.

    robertdjclark - Réponse

    Either a #00 or a #000 bit should work fine here. Some #0 bits will also work if the point is fine enough. Same goes for a lot of JIS bits. As long as it doesn't strip or slip, you're good.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    My kit's screwdriver failed about the time I got to the last few steps in this tutorial. I had a cheap precision set with a #000 bit but that refused to seat in the screws. I went to Home Depot, bought a lifetime guarantee Husky precision set with #0000 through #0 bits and that worked beautifully on every screw.

    David Shaddock - Réponse

    The screwdriver in my kit doesn't remove the bottom two screws! any reason why?

    anujfolsom - Réponse

    I actually followed all the guide but isn’t the front panel disassembly skippable? And if so what are the benefits of removing it? Cause i had quite a hard time putting back in the connectors of the 3 flex cables.

    GiovanniB - Réponse

    I have the 6s from Dubai. the top left screw is different with the rest. I am stuck on this screw. i am clue less why this top left + screw.

    Anyone have the same issue?

    Evander Lorenz - Réponse

    A precision screwdriver set is a wise investment for doing any of this work. I got a set from iFixit that is very well machined. Don’t expect the cheap drivers with kits to last more than one disassembly-assembly, if that! Also don’t keep mangled bits or drivers…throw them out!!!

    Peter Bovey - Réponse

    what crews  should I use in this step PH000. OR Y000 OR P2 Plz help me

    mshary alzhrany - Réponse

    The kit provided with the replacement Battery of iPhone 6s does not include the right bits to remove the three 1,2mm screws! I had to remove it without removing the display.

    Matthias Wagner - Réponse

    I too experienced a problem with the size of the screwdriver here (supplied in the iFixit kit.) My phone also had a 5th screw right in the center of the plate - another 1.2mm. I removed and replace it without problems.

    Scott Young - Réponse

    @scottvyoung Sounds like you’re working on an iPhone 6. These instructions are for the 6s.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    Screws are very small and very difficult to put back in!! Lost 2-3 screws

    Put phone back together and of course doesnt work Waste of Money!

    Thomas Kintigh - Réponse

    I purchased a “screw set” for an i-Phone 5 and have slowly been cannibalizing it whenever I lose a screw. It has been invaluable and the set includes enough screws that I have been able to cover all that have been dropped and lost for 3 i-Phones now. Using a magnetic mat has also limited my screw loss considerably! All of these items were purchased through IFIXIT at very reasonable cost. Thank you IFIXIT!

    Peter Bovey -

    The ifixit kit supplied screwdriver for the display cable bracket did NOT fit. (disappointing) So, I used scentar’s (comment above) method of a large rubber band wrapped around a book weighted kit box to hold it at 90 degrees. Leaving the screen attached and then removing and replacing the battery.

    laffinbuz - Réponse

    I had a problem reassembling the iPhone, my touchId wasn’t working any more even if the home button was working correctly. I don’t know why but loosening these 4 screw a bit made it work again. If I tight them again it doesn’t work. Maybe this can help someone.

    Alex Mufatti - Réponse

    @alexmufatti I had the same exact issue and luckily came across the same solution by trial and error. However a few weeks later Touch ID suddenly stopped working again and I think it’s the same issue. I was hoping somebody came across a more permanent solution.

    Michel Chemas -

    I was nervous not following this guide step-by-step, but as others mentioned I did not have the correct ‘bit’ size to remove the 3 screws circled in ‘red’ in the above diagram. I skipped steps 17, 18, 19 BUT used the ‘tip’ in step 11 to prop the front screen without removing the front display completely and I was still able to replace battery.

    italianchick99 - Réponse

    how to measure the screw? from the head or from under the head?

    Balieltello - Réponse

    I was unable to remove the display cable bracket. Therefore I was unable to remove the display, which meant I couldn’t replace the screen seal. ☹️ The small Phillips bit seemed too pointed so it couldn’t get into the screw deep enough to grip. The second Phillips bit was too big. It makes me wonder if I got the correct tool kit with my battery replacement kit.

    Mark Morris - Réponse

  18. Retirez le support de la nappe d'écran. Retirez le support de la nappe d'écran.
    • Retirez le support de la nappe d'écran.

  19. Utilisez une spatule (spudger) ou un ongle propre pour déconnecter la nappe de la caméra frontale de sa prise sur la carte mère en faisant levier. Utilisez une spatule (spudger) ou un ongle propre pour déconnecter la nappe de la caméra frontale de sa prise sur la carte mère en faisant levier.
    • Utilisez une spatule (spudger) ou un ongle propre pour déconnecter la nappe de la caméra frontale de sa prise sur la carte mère en faisant levier.

    Note carefully the order that they are removed.  My new display had them in the WRONG order and I spent about 2 minutes trying to figure out what was wrong until I compared the new screen with the old screen and saw that they were in wrong sequence.  Fortunately they were relatively easy to fold out of the way and put them in the right order.  After that they popped right into place.  The new cables don’t have the “fold” yet so display had to be held at 90 degrees until all three were installed and the cover reattached.

    David Rogers - Réponse

    I pop up these screen connectors using my fingernail. After doing a lot of repairs, this is the easiest and fastest way to get them loose.

    Kenneth Hilstan - Réponse

    pad under earspeaker is lost, where to buy?

    Balieltello - Réponse

  20. Fix Kits pour écrans LCD d'iPhone

    L'option économique couverte par notre garantie à vie.

    Acheter des kits

    Fix Kits pour écrans LCD d'iPhone

    Réduisez les coûts de réparation et non pas la qualité.

    Acheter des kits
  21. Déconnectez la nappe du tactile de sa prise sur la carte mère en faisant levier. Lorsque vous reconnectez la nappe du tactile, n'appuyez pas sur le milieu du connecteur. Appuyez sur un côté du connecteur, puis sur l'autre. Appuyer au milieu risque de tordre le composant et d'endommager le tactile.
    • Déconnectez la nappe du tactile de sa prise sur la carte mère en faisant levier.

    • Lorsque vous reconnectez la nappe du tactile, n'appuyez pas sur le milieu du connecteur. Appuyez sur un côté du connecteur, puis sur l'autre. Appuyer au milieu risque de tordre le composant et d'endommager le tactile.

    I can't seem to get the digitizer cable to snap back into place. Any suggestions?

    gbmazur - Réponse

    Yes--if you, like me, could not get the digitizer connector to seat, you've probably got confused on the reassembly order. I had to remove the EMI shield (seven screws), and reinstall it ON TOP of the big flap tongue that comes with the new digitizer, rearranging the order of the connector tails. Note that one of the connectors is a bit shorter than the other, and one of the receptacles on the iPhone is shorter as well. Make sure you're laying down the tails and connectors in the right order when you reassemble! The display data cable--sideways to the others, toward the outer edge, goes first. Then the longer connector, and finally the shorter one. When they're seated, they're seated, and you'll be sure of it.

    David Shaddock - Réponse

    Patience. I had trouble but after some time got it back in. Didn’t have to rearrange anything like above ^. Maybe the design was changed.

    Cbirdsey - Réponse

    I have no audio through the earpiece after completing the process. I have removed and reseated all cables several times. What’s wrong?

    Tobin Antpusat - Réponse

    Same problem…. any suggestions?

    Antonio Sacchet -

    My touch id does not work anymore after battery replacement. Can it be that its due to badly connected digitizer cable to connector? Everything else seems to work perfectly. Thanks

    cyp - Réponse

  22. Avant d'effectuer cette étape, vérifiez que la batterie est déconnectée, puis déconnectez ou reconnectez la nappe. Déconnectez la nappe des données d'écran de sa prise sur la carte mère en faisant levier.
    • Avant d'effectuer cette étape, vérifiez que la batterie est déconnectée, puis déconnectez ou reconnectez la nappe.

    • Déconnectez la nappe des données d'écran de sa prise sur la carte mère en faisant levier.

    I notice there are 3 flex cables, does this disassembly guide apply to the verizon version of iPhone 6s? I don't want to order the wrong digitizer screen for my new and improved iPhone that i somehow managed to crack the screen on.

    Bailey Duncan - Réponse

    There are four cables to disconnect here to complete this process, at least on my phone. The replacement screen also had 4, so no problem.

    Scott Young - Réponse

    I am having a hard time reattaching the LCD cable. Is it possible I bent the connectors? Or possibly the gaskets around it are interfering? I’d like to just pull all of that waterproofing gasket off! >:(

    Amanda Cooper (Doula) - Réponse

    Did you end up going this? My screen is black so I'm trying to figure out what i did

    Alex Tanner -

    I neglected to detach the battery before taking this step and upon reassembly I have no display. What might be my next step to repair.

    Dennis Gagomiros - Réponse

    You can try reseating the cables, but the likely answer is that your logic board’s backlight circuit is blown. If you power on your phone and you can see an image on the display by shining a bright light on it, your backlight circuit is toast. This is a common repair and very fixable, but requires microsoldering equipment and expertise. It’s not a DIY.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    I made the same mistake and I'm wondering if you got a fix for it? Is the damage done on the screen assembly or phone itself?

    goesprotocall -

    My screen replacement only comes with two flex cables but all of the videos are showing three. It is not working to connect the flex cables to the connectors

    cellabella1 - Réponse

    The third flex cable would be for the front-facing camera, sensors, etc. If you bought a display that doesn’t include those components, you’ll need to transfer them to your new display first, and then you’ll be able to install it and plug everything in. The instructions are over here. Good luck!

    Jeff Suovanen -

  23. Retirez l'écran complet.

    If you're replacing the adhesive, be sure to check the two tabs on the display that receive the pentalobe screws before setting the display on the new adhesive. The tabs on my display were bent inward slightly—just out of reach of the pentalobe screws. I didn't bend these out before setting the display and was forced to re-open the display to adjust them, ruining my carefully placed adhesive.

    cdinger - Réponse

    There is no need to remove camera or the logic board if all you want to do is replace the lightning assembly. Leaving things in place will save you a number of steps. Proceed directly to Step 35 and save yourself all this work.

    Ira Goldman - Réponse

    Also read comments on step 37 as others have also pointed out that there is no need to pull logic board and you can skip those steps mentioned.

    Ira Goldman - Réponse

    Unless you are replacing the speaker you can skip to step 34 as there is no need to remove the logic board.

    Bryan Solo - Réponse

    My replacement display was not functional, but I didn’t test it until after my adhesive was already applied. Might be worth double-checking the replacement screen works before applying the adhesive at all. (though I’m glad I tried it before closing it up!)

    Ben - Réponse

    When reconnecting to the logic board, reverse the order, so display first, then digitizer and finally camera. The front pannel slides into small edge of the backchannel. So start at the top when you put front and back together.

    Joep Willemsen - Réponse

    be sure battery is disconnected before reassembling the display —in case you reconnected it to position battery

    Christa - Réponse

    If reapplying adhesive, I would strongly recommend that you wait until you are reassembling the phone. Otherwise, trust me, it gets really sticky and limits your mobility around the phone. I had it all over my fingers by the time I finally got the old battery out and the new one in.

    Justin Tilghman - Réponse

    Removing the battery was a challenge as the old adhesive snapped before it came out so I had to use a hair dryer to warm the adhesive before slowly peeling the battery off. I still manage to puncture the batter and nearly had a fire. When inserting the new battery I didn’t leave enough room for the connector to fit beside it so I had to pull it off, plug the connector into its port, then insert the battery. I think the instructions should warn you to leave enough room for the connector to tuck in beside it.

    The kit came with a new adhesive gasket but I could not find the instructions on how to install it. But after 45 minutes I had it done and my iPhone 6S is back in working order. Don’t forget to ‘hard’ reset the phone on start up, run the new battery all the way down. Otherwise this is a very good value time and money wise.

    Ramon Pabalan - Réponse

  24. Utilisez l'extrémité plate d'une spatule (spudger) pour débrancher la caméra iSight de sa prise sur la carte mère. Utilisez l'extrémité plate d'une spatule (spudger) pour débrancher la caméra iSight de sa prise sur la carte mère.
    • Utilisez l'extrémité plate d'une spatule (spudger) pour débrancher la caméra iSight de sa prise sur la carte mère.

  25. Retirez les deux vis Phillips suivantes sur le support de la caméra iSight :
    • Retirez les deux vis Phillips suivantes sur le support de la caméra iSight :

    • Une vis de 1.6 mm

    • Une vis de 2.0 mm

  26. Retirez le support de la caméra. Retirez le support de la caméra.
    • Retirez le support de la caméra.

  27. Insérez un spudger sur le côté de l'appareil photo, entre le boîtier arrière et le module de caméra. Soulevez doucement la caméra pour la pousser à sortir de son logement.
    • Insérez un spudger sur le côté de l'appareil photo, entre le boîtier arrière et le module de caméra.

    • Soulevez doucement la caméra pour la pousser à sortir de son logement.

  28. Retirez la caméra. Retirez la caméra.
    • Retirez la caméra.

  29. Insérez un éjecteur de carte SIM ou un trombone dans le petit trou du tiroir de la carte SIM. Appuyez pour éjecter le tiroir.
    • Insérez un éjecteur de carte SIM ou un trombone dans le petit trou du tiroir de la carte SIM.

    • Appuyez pour éjecter le tiroir.

    • Une certaine force est nécessaire lors de cette étape.

    Anyone ever have the lever on these break? I’m in the process of removing logic board to remove a stuck SIM card

    aburningstariv - Réponse

  30. Retirez le tiroir avec la carte SIM de l'iPhone.
    • Retirez le tiroir avec la carte SIM de l'iPhone.

    • Lorsque vous remettez la carte SIM, veillez à ce qu'elle soit dans le bon sens par rapport au tiroir.

  31. Dévissez les deux vis cruciformes de 2,3 mm fixant le support du connecteur de la nappe des composants supérieurs.
    • Dévissez les deux vis cruciformes de 2,3 mm fixant le support du connecteur de la nappe des composants supérieurs.

  32. Retirez le support du connecteur de la nappe des composants supérieurs. Retirez le support du connecteur de la nappe des composants supérieurs.
    • Retirez le support du connecteur de la nappe des composants supérieurs.

  33. Dévissez les cinq vis cruciformes suivantes, fixant l'antenne Wi-Fi supérieure gauche : Deux vis de 1,5 mm
    • Dévissez les cinq vis cruciformes suivantes, fixant l'antenne Wi-Fi supérieure gauche :

    • Deux vis de 1,5 mm

    • Une vis de 2,3 mm

    • Une vis de 19 mm

    • Une vis de 2,0 mm

  34. Retirez l'antenne Wi-Fi supérieure gauche. Retirez l'antenne Wi-Fi supérieure gauche.
    • Retirez l'antenne Wi-Fi supérieure gauche.

  35. Avec l'extrémité plate d'une spatule (spudger), déconnectez la nappe de gestion de volume de sa prise sur la carte mère. Avec l'extrémité plate d'une spatule (spudger), déconnectez la nappe de gestion de volume de sa prise sur la carte mère.
    • Avec l'extrémité plate d'une spatule (spudger), déconnectez la nappe de gestion de volume de sa prise sur la carte mère.

  36. Avec l'extrémité plate d'une spatule (spudger), déconnectez le câble d'antenne de sa prise dans le coin supérieur droit de la carte mère. Avec l'extrémité plate d'une spatule (spudger), déconnectez le câble d'antenne de sa prise dans le coin supérieur droit de la carte mère.
    • Avec l'extrémité plate d'une spatule (spudger), déconnectez le câble d'antenne de sa prise dans le coin supérieur droit de la carte mère.

  37. Avec l'extrémité plate de la spatule, déconnectez le câble d'antenne de sa prise dans le coin inférieur gauche de la carte mère. Avec l'extrémité plate de la spatule, déconnectez le câble d'antenne de sa prise dans le coin inférieur gauche de la carte mère.
    • Avec l'extrémité plate de la spatule, déconnectez le câble d'antenne de sa prise dans le coin inférieur gauche de la carte mère.

  38. Insérez l'extrémité plate de la spatule sous la nappe du connecteur de charge Lightning. Soulevez-le pour le débrancher de sa prise sur la carte mère. Insérez l'extrémité plate de la spatule sous la nappe du connecteur de charge Lightning. Soulevez-le pour le débrancher de sa prise sur la carte mère.
    • Insérez l'extrémité plate de la spatule sous la nappe du connecteur de charge Lightning. Soulevez-le pour le débrancher de sa prise sur la carte mère.

  39. Soulevez délicatement le câble d'antenne pour le déloger des deux clips sur le côté droit de la carte mère. Soulevez délicatement le câble d'antenne pour le déloger des deux clips sur le côté droit de la carte mère.
    • Soulevez délicatement le câble d'antenne pour le déloger des deux clips sur le côté droit de la carte mère.

  40. Dévissez la vis cruciforme de 1,3 mm fixant le support NFC à la carte mère.
    • Dévissez la vis cruciforme de 1,3 mm fixant le support NFC à la carte mère.

  41. Retirez le support NFC. Retirez le support NFC.
    • Retirez le support NFC.

  42. Dévissez les deux vis cruciformes suivantes : Une vis de 2,5 mm en haut de la carte mère
    • Dévissez les deux vis cruciformes suivantes :

    • Une vis de 2,5 mm en haut de la carte mère

    • Une vis de 1,4 mm dans le rebord supérieur de la coque arrière

  43. Retirez le clip en plastique. Retirez le clip en plastique.
    • Retirez le clip en plastique.

  44. Retirez les trois dernières vis fixant la carte mère à la coque arrière :
    • Retirez les trois dernières vis fixant la carte mère à la coque arrière :

    • Une vis cruciforme de 1,9 mm

    • Un écrou hexagonal de 2,5 mm

    • Une vis cruciforme de 1,8 mm

  45. Insérez un médiator le long du bord inférieur de la carte mère, entre la carte et le haut-parleur. Soulevez délicatement la carte mère hors de son logement à l'aide du médiator. Retirez la carte mère.
    • Insérez un médiator le long du bord inférieur de la carte mère, entre la carte et le haut-parleur.

    • Soulevez délicatement la carte mère hors de son logement à l'aide du médiator.

    • Retirez la carte mère.

  46. Délogez le câble d'antenne  de son manchon en caoutchouc dans le rebord droit de la coque arrière. Délogez le câble d'antenne  de son manchon en caoutchouc dans le rebord droit de la coque arrière. Délogez le câble d'antenne  de son manchon en caoutchouc dans le rebord droit de la coque arrière.
    • Délogez le câble d'antenne de son manchon en caoutchouc dans le rebord droit de la coque arrière.

  47. Continuez le long du rebord de la coque arrière et dégagez le câble d'antenne du petit clip métallique dans la coque arrière. Continuez le long du rebord de la coque arrière et dégagez le câble d'antenne du petit clip métallique dans la coque arrière.
    • Continuez le long du rebord de la coque arrière et dégagez le câble d'antenne du petit clip métallique dans la coque arrière.

  48. Avec une pincette, retirer la bande adhésive recouvrant le support de l'antenne Wi-Fi diversity. Avec une pincette, retirer la bande adhésive recouvrant le support de l'antenne Wi-Fi diversity. Avec une pincette, retirer la bande adhésive recouvrant le support de l'antenne Wi-Fi diversity.
    • Avec une pincette, retirer la bande adhésive recouvrant le support de l'antenne Wi-Fi diversity.

  49. Retirez les cinq vis cruciformes suivantes :
    • Retirez les cinq vis cruciformes suivantes :

    • Deux vis de 2,6 mm

    • Deux vis de 2,3 mm

    • Une vis de 3,0 mm

  50. Retirez l'ensemble haut-parleur. Retirez l'ensemble haut-parleur. Retirez l'ensemble haut-parleur.
    • Retirez l'ensemble haut-parleur.

  51. Dévissez les deux vis cruciformes de 1,5 mm fixant le Taptic Engine à la coque arrière. Retirez le Taptic Engine. Retirez le Taptic Engine.
    • Dévissez les deux vis cruciformes de 1,5 mm fixant le Taptic Engine à la coque arrière.

    • Retirez le Taptic Engine.

  52. Dévissez les huit vis cruciformes suivantes :
    • Dévissez les huit vis cruciformes suivantes :

    • Deux vis de 2,9 mm au-dessus de la prise Jack

    • Une vis de 3,7 mm au-dessus du support de la prise Jack

    • Deux vis de 1,4 mm dans le coin de l'iPhone

    • Deux vis de 1,9 mm de part et d'autre du connecteur de charge Lightning

    • Une vis de 3,0 mm à gauche du connecteur de charge

    Make sure you separate the “blue” (3.0mm) screw from the “red”(2.9mm) screws—they are next to impossible to tell apart by eye.

    Alexander Anderson - Réponse

    As you remove the 3.7 mm screw(orange) be careful of the bracket(Step 51) as it sometimes lifts with the screw and you will need it for re-installation.

    Bryan Solo - Réponse

  53. Retirez le support en plastique du microphone.
    • Retirez le support en plastique du microphone.

  54. Insérez un médiator entre le rebord de la coque arrière et la nappe. Appuyez délicatement le médiator sous la nappe pour faire céder la colle qui la maintient en place. Appuyez délicatement le médiator sous la nappe pour faire céder la colle qui la maintient en place.
    • Insérez un médiator entre le rebord de la coque arrière et la nappe.

    • Appuyez délicatement le médiator sous la nappe pour faire céder la colle qui la maintient en place.

  55. Insérez l'extrémité plate d'une spatule (spudger) entre l'ensemble du connecteur de charge Lightning et la coque arrière pour faire céder l'adhésif qui reste. Insérez l'extrémité plate d'une spatule (spudger) entre l'ensemble du connecteur de charge Lightning et la coque arrière pour faire céder l'adhésif qui reste. Insérez l'extrémité plate d'une spatule (spudger) entre l'ensemble du connecteur de charge Lightning et la coque arrière pour faire céder l'adhésif qui reste.
    • Insérez l'extrémité plate d'une spatule (spudger) entre l'ensemble du connecteur de charge Lightning et la coque arrière pour faire céder l'adhésif qui reste.

    The replacement lightning assembly has a factory plastic seal over the new adhesive—be sure to remove it before installing the new one.

    Alexander Anderson - Réponse

    Well spotted, thanks!

    NMranchhand - Réponse

  56. Avec la pointe d'une spatule, poussez la prise Jack hors de son emplacement dans la coque arrière. Avec la pointe d'une spatule, poussez la prise Jack hors de son emplacement dans la coque arrière.
    • Avec la pointe d'une spatule, poussez la prise Jack hors de son emplacement dans la coque arrière.

    There’s a rubber “o-ring” type gasket that goes between the plastic tube of the 3.5 mm housing and the bottom of the iphone where it leads out. Carefully remove it and replace it on the new lighting connector/3.5 mm housing tube before installing.

    Alexander Anderson - Réponse

  57. Avec la pointe de la spatule, séparez les deux microphones du rebord supérieur de la coque arrière. Avec la pointe de la spatule, séparez les deux microphones du rebord supérieur de la coque arrière.
    • Avec la pointe de la spatule, séparez les deux microphones du rebord supérieur de la coque arrière.

    Theres a little buffer/washer thing on the back of this piece. Make sure to pull it off and re-use it on the replacement piece! The microphone won't work well without it.

    Jeff - Réponse

    On the replacement lightning assembly, this microphone has a factory plastic seal—remove it before putting on the buffer/washer thing mentioned above.

    Alexander Anderson - Réponse

  58. Retirez l'ensemble connecteur de charge Lightning.
    • Retirez l'ensemble connecteur de charge Lightning.

    • Avant d'installer ou de remplacer l'ensemble connecteur de charge Lightning :

    • Utilisez un outil en plastique pour retirer tout reste d'adhésif sur la coque arrière et sous la nappe.

    • Comparez votre pièce de remplacement avec la pièce originale et notez les différences. Vous devriez trouver un joint en caoutchouc collé à l'ancienne prise Jack, qui doit être transférée au besoin sur la nouvelle pièce.

    • Testez l'alignement de la pièce de remplacement, puis retirez tous les films plastiques de protection avant de la mettre en place.

    There is a small plastic spacer for the microphone that might come off with Lightning connector assembly. If it does you can simply pull it off and apply it to the new assembly.

    Huntster - Réponse

    The lightning connector does not have a gasket but instead some adhesive. You will need to replace this as it creates a seal between the connector and the frame.

    Bryan Solo - Réponse

Conclusion

Pour remonter votre appareil, suivez ces instructions en sens inverse.

247 autre(s) ont terminé cette réparation.

Merci à ces traducteurs :

100%

Ces traducteurs nous aident réparer le monde ! Vous voulez contribuer ?
Commencez à traduire ›

Evan Noronha

Membre depuis le 05/02/2015

186 007 Réputation

178 tutoriels rédigés

Équipe

iFixit Membre de l'équipe iFixit

Community

111 membres

10 675 tutoriels rédigés

35 commentaires

the reason is the antenna is connected to the loud speaker but you can lay it out of the way, remember do not rip the cable that is attached to the speaker

Wilson Gilley - Réponse

Can you just plug the new assembly in to check it, before going through the whole installation?

cropcord76 - Réponse

ya man, just be careful, make sure battery is disconnected before connecting or disconnecting anything

Andrew -

I did this repair and everything went fine. The user now has issues with callers hearing them. Is there a cover/sticker over the microphone on the ifixit replacement part? Speaker works and he can talk on speaker phone with no issues. Any ideas?

bofootball57 - Réponse

Did you pull the old adhesive off before reinstalling using the new adhesive? Did you align each mic correctly?

chamilton89 -

Had no problems, swapped out the port. I also skipped 21-47 but found there were one or two small things in there that needed to be done to remove the lightning port. Uncovering the screw was one one of them, but I forget the other. The hardest part for me was getting the screen up, but a little heat from a hair dryer helped loosen the adhesive. After that, pretty smooth sailing. Anyway, easy enough to do and the phone works again. Nice.

Pete - Réponse

Followed the guide, didn't encounter a problem with skipping from 21-47 - but now i get a really weak cellular signal (changing from searching or no network to just no mobile data or no reception at all), even after ordering 2 more Lightning Port Assemblies and giving them a try...

I'm not sure if it's a grounding problem or because i didn't wear gloves, but i've read that there are more people with the same problem under the discussion of the iPhone 6 Lightning port change. Is there anyone who could help me?

Jan Hiebert - Réponse

is there a way to check the new part, i completed everything and still is not working?

Ryan - Réponse

did anyone have issues reattaching the antenna cable to the socket for reassembly in step 35? how do i line it up correctly? i can't seem to get it to stay.

also, perhaps related, the headphone jack and microphone do not work after i completed the switch. bluetooth calls work fine, and the speaker works but not the headphone jack or the microphone.

kapluni - Réponse

Hi Kapluni, Did you get an answer to this? I don’t seem to have any damage but it just doesn’t seem to “click” into place.

Ronan Kenneally -

Skipped 21-47. Put back together, had issues with putting antenna back (step 35). Now the phone will not even turn on. Plugged to a power source, says to plug in to iTunes. Plug in to iTunes...nothing. Says it's in recovery mode. No clue what to do. Did not back up the phone, as my MacBook air is late 2011 and the iTunes will not recognize the phone anymore since last update. My fault for not backing up on new computer,,,about to lose all information. Any ideas?

Jason Schroeder - Réponse

SKipped 21-47, only trouble was plugging antennae back in but stayed patient. Did the lightning headphone, battery and screen all together. Took about an hour or so.

joshuabogage - Réponse

Hi, I tried to repair the Lightning. No problem exept that the power source is not recognize. I can’t charge the battery. I think the piece is a bad one…. I put the old Lightning and the charge is OK but i have to put back the wire with a tool.

Chacal - Réponse

Everything went smooth, however something weird is happening now. When recording a video everything works fine, but when recording a video on Instagram, there is a very loud noise (like rain) and the sound is barely audible, you can’t hear pretty much nothing. Any idea of what the problem might be?

kraki - Réponse

OK that was really hard! Yes, it pains me to admit it but I am at a point in my life where the ability to repair a phone doesn’t really serve my ego. I did all the steps because I didn’t notice the comments section until I got to step 56. Had I to do it over I would have made little trays for each type of screw and not tried to store them with associated parts during disassembly. This alone is why reassembly alone took me 3 hours! I keep swapping out screws to cover for bad guessing. Phone seems to work fine on day one. Here’s hoping for another two years of service!

Eric Anderson - Réponse

Regarding the little antennae terminals. These require patience. I had convinced myself that I had bent the tiny little male prong and that was why it wouldn’t seat. It was fine. The design is not that weak. It just takes a steady pressure while every angle is tried.

Eric Anderson - Réponse

Great guide and pictures, except you dont need to remove the logic board! I wish i had read these comments before starting :( Also a good idea to sort the screws!

Gabe Vacaliuc - Réponse

As others have remarked, removing the logic board is totally unnecessary, and makes this repair so much more complicated (and risky). The speakerbox does not have to be disconnected at all, you can just put it aside carefully. Apple included extra length of cable to allow for that.

Even though it’s well made (and no doubt well intended) I think this tutorial should be revised or removed to correct this wrong approach.

In the mean time, a better video is this one:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J41KaLOR...

Manon Schuitema - Réponse

This worked perfectly. Thank you.

Mark D Flannery - Réponse

First full teardown of a clients device! Only been doing this for about a week. THANK YOU SO MUCH for the great guide! Didn’t miss a screw!

Brandon Tuey - Réponse

Question- does the lightning connector cable adhesive not come in this kit? It wants me to buy it separately but then is out of stock. I would think that a kit would have everything I need so I’m confused. Thanks.

ElleT - Réponse

Thank you so much for the great explanations and wonderful pictures - I wouldn’t be able to do this repair without it. It took me a while, and I took my time, but it ended on a very happy note with a fully functioning phone with a lightning port that will actually charge my phone! This was a great repair guide

Tim Griffin - Réponse

This was an easy and complete/successful repair without taking out the logic board. Just be careful not to completely take out the speaker assembly; just move it up enough to pull up the ribbon cable below it. For my replacement part, I used one from another phone so I did this twice.

Breadman - Réponse

Did anyone have a headphone jack problem where you turn the volume up and you can’t hear anything?

Neo_Tech - Réponse

Had same issue with the headphone jack! The phone recognizes headphones are plugged in, and volume controls / pause and play work, but I don’t hear any sounds out of it. Did anyone find a solution to this problem?

Jake Liu - Réponse

Merci pour ce tutoriel parfaitement illustré de magnifiques photos. Merci au traducteur, les photos ne suffisent pas toujours !

Réparation effectuée avec succès. C’est quand même réellement difficile et il faut absolument prendre son temps, surtout si c’est votre première réparation de ce type. Il faut être particulièrement délicat avec les connecteurs, surtout ceux de l’écran. Perso un des trois était abimé d’un côté (assemblage d’origine mal fait) et j’ai dû reformer le téton central écrasé d’un côté pour dégager un des minuscules connecteurs. Opération sous loupe binoculaire, ça aide ! :)

Les antennes sont les plus difficiles à rebrancher. Deux minuscules prises coaxiales qu’il faut aligner parfaitement pour les connecter et c’est pas évident car à l’œil nu on ne voit pas bien ce qui ce passe. Regarder à la loupe comment ces prises sont faites aide beaucoup à comprendre comment les positionner avant d’appuyer pour les connecter. Soyez très prudent.

Philippe Galmel - Réponse

Did the whole thing, managed to get it done, but charging was still iffy, and both the haptic engine and speakers stopped responding

Simply re-opened and re-seated everything, while being extra careful, and boom. It all worked perfectly!! Thanks :)

Naysan Jones (NaysWindu) - Réponse

So elaborately explained. Thank you!

hizburrahmanjibon - Réponse

Ciao! Io faccio il tutto senza rimuovere la scheda madre dell'iPhone. Questo comporta dei problemi?

Grazie.

Michelangelo - Réponse

Nessun problema!

Arthur Shi -

Step 28 tells me to complete remove the antenna cable, although I didn’t do this and was able to complete the rest of the procedure.

DARWINLAM - Réponse

My iPhone did not charge anymore, so I changed the Lighting Connector and the battery. After the repair, I connected it to my Macbook. It turned on again, but it still does not load. Did someone have a similar problem and maybe a solution for me? Many Thanks! Best regards, Felix

Doc Brown - Réponse

did you allow your computer to access the iphone?

Sam Tang -

Giuda molto dettagliata, ma credo ci siano molti più passaggi del necessario (ho trovato una guida in cui estraeva il flex di ricarica in circa 15 minuti, senza togliere né batteria né scheda madre)

jack91.7 - Réponse

The yellow screws in Step 32 is sooo tight, I found it so hard to remove.

Sam Tang - Réponse

Ajouter un commentaire

Afficher les statistiques:

Dernières 24 heures : 76

7 derniers jours : 649

30 derniers jours : 2,927

Total : 179,473