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Remplacement de l'ensemble connecteur de charge Lightning de l'iPhone 8

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  1. Remplacement de l'ensemble connecteur de charge Lightning de l'iPhone 8, Retirer la carte SIM: étape 1, image 1 de 2 Remplacement de l'ensemble connecteur de charge Lightning de l'iPhone 8, Retirer la carte SIM: étape 1, image 2 de 2
    • Insérez un outil éjecteur de carte SIM, un embout ou un trombone déplié dans le petit trou du tiroir de la carte SIM.

    • Appuyez afin d'éjecter le tiroir.

    • Cela peut nécessiter de forcer un peu. Cependant, assurez-vous que l'outil éjecteur est correctement aligné au préalable, afin de ne pas endommager le mécanisme d'éjection à l'intérieur du smartphone.

    Prolly goes without saying, but should you power off phone before this step?

    jklue - Réponse

    If you are merely swapping the SIM card, you don’t need to power off your iPhone. If you plan to do any repairs that involve opening the phone, you should definitely power off your iPhone.

    Arthur Shi -

  2. Remplacement de l'ensemble connecteur de charge Lightning de l'iPhone 8: étape 2, image 1 de 2 Remplacement de l'ensemble connecteur de charge Lightning de l'iPhone 8: étape 2, image 2 de 2
    • Retirez le tiroir de la carte SIM de l'iPhone.

    • La carte SIM tombera facilement du tiroir.

    • Lors de la réinsertion de la carte SIM, assurez-vous qu'elle soit correctement orientée par rapport au tiroir.

    • Un mince joint en caoutchouc autour du plateau de la carte SIM protège de l'eau et de la poussière. Si ce joint est endommagé ou manque, remplacez-le ou tout le tiroir SIM pour protéger les composants internes de votre iPhone.

  3. Remplacement de l'ensemble connecteur de charge Lightning de l'iPhone 8, Dévisser les vis Pentalobe: étape 3, image 1 de 1
    • Avant de commencer, déchargez la batterie de votre iPhone en dessous de 25 %. Une batterie lithium-ion chargée peut prendre feu et/ou exploser si elle est accidentellement percée.

    • Éteignez votre iPhone avant de commencer le démontage.

    • Dévissez les deux vis Pentalobe de 3,5 mm sur le bord inférieur de l'iPhone.

    • Ouvrir l'iPhone va endommager les joints étanches. Assurez-vous d'avoir du nouvel adhésif à portée de main avant de procéder à la prochaine étape. Si vous ne remplacez pas les joints, vous devrez prendre bien soin d'éviter d'exposer votre iPhone aux liquides.

    just how long are those screws- i turn and turn and turn and the lift off is soooo slight, seemingly insignificant…

    An. Jahnke - Réponse

    I would recommend, from the very beginning, dumping all tools out of the kit (if you got it) and using that white paper tool box as a tray to organize the screws and braces in. It’s nice to work over because it catches screws well and makes it easy to see them if you drop any.

    Johnny Emrica - Réponse

    That’s a great idea thank you

    Mohamed Dekkiche -

    Screw to the left of the charging port will not come out. Screw on the right came out no problem. Any ideas?

    Bill Maher - Réponse

    I already replaced my iPhone 8 battery with one from iFixit and honestly I wasn't impressed. It worked well for a few months, but then I started noticing the peak performance capability dropping significantly thereafter. I followed the initial charging instructions to a tee and only let it drop below 20% once a month. Normal everyday use for me... no intense apps like games, etc. I considered having Apple do it this time around, but for these older models they don't keep the batteries in-stock and you have to give them your phone for up to a week. So in the end, I opted to try another battery from iFixit instead. Hopefully this one will last longer.

    tripmusic - Réponse

    How with the gigantic kit do I not have a 3 1/2 pentalobe driver the very first screwdriver I reach for and that I need is not in any of these kits. What’s up with that?

    Michael Stephens - Réponse

  4. Remplacement de l'ensemble connecteur de charge Lightning de l'iPhone 8, Marquer vos médiators: étape 4, image 1 de 3 Remplacement de l'ensemble connecteur de charge Lightning de l'iPhone 8, Marquer vos médiators: étape 4, image 2 de 3 Remplacement de l'ensemble connecteur de charge Lightning de l'iPhone 8, Marquer vos médiators: étape 4, image 3 de 3
    • S'il est inséré trop loin, un médiator risque d'endommager votre appareil. Suivez cette étape pour tracer un repère sur votre médiator et éviter que l'appareil ne soit endommagé.

    • Mesurez 3 mm à partir de la pointe et tracez une ligne sur le médiator avec un marqueur permanent.

    • Vous pouvez également marquer les autres coins du médiator avec des mesures différentes.

    • Une autre solution consiste à scotcher une pièce de monnaie sur votre médiator, à 3 mm de la pointe.

    Got to step 2 and realized the fix kit doesn't include an opening pick! Looks like a guitar pick, and I have those lying around. Is that expected? Looks like the pick is used in many steps below. There's a little blue crowbar that isn't mentioned in the instructions. Perhaps that replaces the opening pick?

    Sloan Looney - Réponse

    Hi! I can't see which guide you were using when writing this comment. Can you reply here with which guide and fix kit you used?

    Clay Eickemeyer -

    I see you posted this in Meta. I hope it's resolved soon! In the meantime, a guitar pick may work well enough for your repair.

    Clay Eickemeyer -

    what fix kit?

    Meow Purr -

    My fix kit didn't include an opening pick either

    WILLIAM HARRIS - Réponse

    Make sure you check inside the black boxes after emptying them. My pick was stuck inside one of the boxes.

    AndyF - Réponse

    My AliExpress refurbished screen came with a pick that has a coin-like circle that pops out, so no modification was necessary

    Gijs Leegwater - Réponse

  5. Remplacement de l'ensemble connecteur de charge Lightning de l'iPhone 8, Recouvrir les fissures avec du ruban adhésif: étape 5, image 1 de 3 Remplacement de l'ensemble connecteur de charge Lightning de l'iPhone 8, Recouvrir les fissures avec du ruban adhésif: étape 5, image 2 de 3 Remplacement de l'ensemble connecteur de charge Lightning de l'iPhone 8, Recouvrir les fissures avec du ruban adhésif: étape 5, image 3 de 3
    • Si votre écran iPhone est fissuré, recouvrez le verre de ruban adhésif afin de limiter les risques de casse et donc d'éviter tout dommage corporel pendant la réparation.

    • Posez des bandes de ruban adhésif d'emballage transparent, qui se chevauchent, sur l'écran de l'iPhone, jusqu'à ce que toute la surface soit recouverte.

    • Portez des lunettes de sécurité pour protéger vos yeux des éclats de verre pendant la réparation.

    • Si vous ne parvenez pas à faire adhérer la ventouse au cours des étapes suivantes, pliez un morceau de ruban adhésif solide (comme du ruban adhésif toilé) en forme de poignée et soulevez l'écran en tirant dessus.

    • En cas d'échec, vous pouvez coller la ventouse à l'écran avec de la superglue.

  6. Remplacement de l'ensemble connecteur de charge Lightning de l'iPhone 8, Instructions Anti-Clamp: étape 6, image 1 de 3 Remplacement de l'ensemble connecteur de charge Lightning de l'iPhone 8, Instructions Anti-Clamp: étape 6, image 2 de 3 Remplacement de l'ensemble connecteur de charge Lightning de l'iPhone 8, Instructions Anti-Clamp: étape 6, image 3 de 3
    • Les trois étapes suivantes sont consacrées à la procédure avec l'Anti-Clamp, un outil facilitant les procédures d'ouverture. Si vous n'avez pas d'Anti-Clamp, passez à la procédure alternative deux étapes plus loin.

    • Pour des instructions complètes sur comment utiliser l'Anti-Clamp, jetez un œil à ce tutoriel.

    • Tirez la poignée bleue vers l'arrière pour débloquer les bras de l'Anti-Clamp.

    • Insérez le bord gauche ou droit de votre iPhone entre les bras de l'Anti-Clamp.

    • Placez les ventouses près du bord inférieur de l'iPhone, juste au-dessus du bouton home - une à l'avant et une à l'arrière.

    • Pressez les ventouses l'une contre l'autre pour appliquer la succion sur la zone souhaitée.

    • Si vous trouvez que la surface de votre iPhone est trop glissante pour que l'Anti-Clamp puisse adhérer, vous pouvez utiliser du ruban adhésif afin de créer une surface plus adhérente.

  7. Remplacement de l'ensemble connecteur de charge Lightning de l'iPhone 8: étape 7, image 1 de 3 Remplacement de l'ensemble connecteur de charge Lightning de l'iPhone 8: étape 7, image 2 de 3 Remplacement de l'ensemble connecteur de charge Lightning de l'iPhone 8: étape 7, image 3 de 3
    • Tirez la poignée bleue vers l'avant pour bloquer les bras.

    • Tournez la poignée dans le sens horaire de 360 degrés ou jusqu'à voir les ventouses commencer à s'étirer.

    • Veillez à ce que les ventouses restent alignées. Si elles commencent à bouger, desserrez légèrement les ventouses et réalignez les bras.

  8. Remplacement de l'ensemble connecteur de charge Lightning de l'iPhone 8: étape 8, image 1 de 2 Remplacement de l'ensemble connecteur de charge Lightning de l'iPhone 8: étape 8, image 2 de 2
    • Chauffez un iOpener et passez-le dans les bras de l'Anti-Clamp.

    • Vous pouvez également utiliser un sèche-cheveux, un pistolet thermique ou une plaque chauffante, mais la chaleur extrême peut endommager l'écran et/ou la batterie interne, donc faites bien attention.

    • Pliez l'iOpener de manière à ce qu'il repose sur le bord inférieur de l'iPhone.

    • Attendez au moins une minute pour permettre à l'adhésif de se décoller et d'ouvrir un interstice.

    • Insérez un médiator dans l'interstice.

    • Si l'Anti-Clamp ne crée pas un espace assez grand, chauffez davantage la zone et tournez la poignée d'un quart de tour.

    • Ne faites pas plus d'un quart de tour à la fois et attendez une minute entre chaque tour. Laissez l'Anti-Clamp et le temps faire le travail à votre place.

    • Passez les trois prochaines étapes.

    it looks like a....

    Gergely Soki - Réponse

  9. Remplacement de l'ensemble connecteur de charge Lightning de l'iPhone 8, Faire chauffer l'écran: étape 9, image 1 de 1
    • Les trois prochaines étapes montrent comment séparer l'écran à l'aide d'une ventouse.

    • Chauffer la partie inférieure de l'iPhone aide à ramollir la colle qui fixe l'écran. Il sera alors plus facile d'ouvrir celui-ci.

    • Utilisez un sèche-cheveux ou préparez un iOpener. Posez celui-ci sur la partie inférieure de l'iPhone pendant environ 90 secondes afin de ramollir la couche d'adhésif en dessous.

    No hair dryer so GENTLY heated over stove burner

    John Toth - Réponse

    Hello,

    What temperature is suitable for removing the front display ? I bought i-Fixit ProTech which is not include the heating "roller" . Thanks for help

    Jiří Sítko - Réponse

    Ich habe eine heiße Wärmflasche verwendet. Das hat gut funktioniert :-)

    Moritz Hartges - Réponse

    I laid my phone face-down on my 3D printer’s heated bed, and set the temperature to 60 C. After a few minutes, it was ready to loosen.

    Nate B - Réponse

    If you don’t have an “iOpener” or heat gun, try using an electric heating pad. I have a small $11 pad I got at CVS for my knee. On medium heat it worked fine for removal and with the “pennies” for setting the new seal.

    Pete P - Réponse

    I used a heated tea kettle and a tea towel, it worked!

    Adam Yavner - Réponse

    I put on the furnace vent for 10 minutes to get it warm to the touch but not hot.

    terrelldoc - Réponse

    I attached it to the after burner of my rocket ship and that worked.

    Matt Brown - Réponse

    I'm holding mine just above an erupting volcano but I'm still waiting to see if it has worked. How long does it need?

    Paul Aron - Réponse

    I used a water-filled ziploc bag, heated it in microwave. fast, cheap, worked.

    John Barker - Réponse

    Hairdryer works fine for this step. No issues.

    tripmusic - Réponse

    The most effective way to heat up the glue is to leave the phone in full sun - if it's available. In fact I would always wait for a sunny day to repair any glued together Apple device. The heat will be very even and the phone was probably designed to survive anything the sun can throw at it - although it can get very warm. (I'm in the UK) If you leave the phone turned on it will give a warning if it goes near the temperature limit.

    John - Réponse

    I'm sorry but I tried both the hair dryer (for 3 minutes!) and the eye opener (also 3 minutes) and no luck. Not even a hint of loosening the adhesive holding down the display!! Do I send this kit back for a refund or what??!!

    John Noble - Réponse

    No luck, guys. 3 minutes of hair drying and 3 minutes heating up the iopener. What next?

    John Noble - Réponse

    Okay, a half hour later i finally got the screen loose, but not after super heating it for at leat 10 minutes with a hair drying and burning my hand trying to pry it open. Also, watch out for the power button because it inadvertently keeps switching the phone back on while you wrestle with it. More later . . .

    John Noble - Réponse

    . . . and now I need to buy a new phone!!! the cable broke as I was trying to unscrew one of the top screws, so thanks! I FIXed IT but Good!!!!

    John Noble - Réponse

    Nate B's advice was key. I couldn't get the temperature of the display hot enough to break the seal with a hair dryer. A heat gun set to low speed and 550F (287C) got the display up to just over 130F, close to the 60C Nate mentioned.

    Matt C - Réponse

  10. Remplacement de l'ensemble connecteur de charge Lightning de l'iPhone 8, Ouvrir l'écran: étape 10, image 1 de 2 Remplacement de l'ensemble connecteur de charge Lightning de l'iPhone 8, Ouvrir l'écran: étape 10, image 2 de 2
    • Posez une ventouse sur la partie inférieure de l'écran, juste au-dessus du bouton home.

    • Assurez-vous de ne pas poser la ventouse sur le bouton home, car cela empêcherait la ventouse d'adhérer de façon étanche à la vitre.

    Even with using high heat from a blow dryer, I had to put the suction cup over the home button or the bottom edge wouldn’t lift at all. That waterproof adhesive is incredibly strong.

    Aaron Soderholm - Réponse

    As others have said, this part really stinks, but it’ll work if you keep trying. Agree with multiple rounds of hair dryer on high (did about 60-90s each time), and with having to out the suction cup over the home button. You don’t need a big gap to pry it open - it’ll be slight …

    Johnny Emrica - Réponse

    Patience is the key here. Expletives and patience. Like previous comments say, putting the suction cup over the home button (I used packing tape to maintain the seal) will allow you to apply force to the proper location to separate the screen. Good luck!

    J Rawlinson - Réponse

    Get a suction cup pliers. It’ll make this part fun

    Bradley Steiner - Réponse

    iSclack EVO opened the iPhone easily even without heating with no fear of accidentally over-opening it like with a simple suction cup.

    Matti Haveri - Réponse

  11. Remplacement de l'ensemble connecteur de charge Lightning de l'iPhone 8: étape 11, image 1 de 3 Remplacement de l'ensemble connecteur de charge Lightning de l'iPhone 8: étape 11, image 2 de 3 Remplacement de l'ensemble connecteur de charge Lightning de l'iPhone 8: étape 11, image 3 de 3
    • Tirez sur la ventouse de façon ferme et constante pour créer un petit interstice entre l'écran et le châssis.

    • Insérez un médiator dans cet interstice.

    • L'adhésif étanche maintenant l'écran en place est très résistant, créer ce premier interstice demande donc de la force. Si vous avez du mal à le faire, refaites chauffer l'iPhone et bougez délicatement l'écran de bas en haut pour faire céder l'adhésif, jusqu'à ce que vous réussissiez à insérer votre outil.

    The screen on my phone was so broken, a suction cup did not work, so I softened the adhesive with a blow dryer and used a Jimmy to carefully pry open the phone from the bottom just enough to slip a pick in.

    charguy - Réponse

    Just completed a smashed screen replacement, this is probably the most time consuming part. Used packing tape to cover the screen to help create a suction surface (had to replace it a couple times because it pulls away after a purple good pulls ) Used consistent heat for about 5 minutes, then stuck a pick in the tiniest opening… and pry pry pry!

    Brian Gill - Réponse

    I failed at this step. No amount of heating, pulling, and rocking opened up enough of a gap to slip in even a knife let alone the blue plastic tool. That's with a phone that has an undamaged screen - just trying to replace the battery. Apple won this round :(

    Michael Sherman - Réponse

    Be really careful here. I placed a sucker to the front and rear to help lever off the screen. However, the whole thing came away much easier than I anticipated and I ripped the front part completely away from the rear, tearing all three connector cables. New iPhone required.

    Chris Wood - Réponse

    Note that the opening pick they show here does not appear to come with the kit, which is a bummer! The plunger, the mini blue crowbar thing, these are too thick. I ended up using a really thin guitar pick.

    Johnny Emrica - Réponse

    Following careful methods can mostly preserve the seal and reusable. Won’t be as water tight but probably still pretty good.

    Bottom edge is pull up with suction + separating tool. Use small precision scissor to cut any tape that gets overly stretched upon initial opening.

    - For the 2 long edges, use an exacto knife to separate the seal from the screen. This keeps the tape on the chassis. Go slow along the long sides. Becareful to avoid scratching the paint on underside of the screen’s edge.

    - Top corners have a thick sealed tape. Best to just use separating tool to twist it open.

    In summary, top and bottom edge use separating tool. Side long edges can use exacto knife to gradually gently separate the seal from underside of the screen’s edge.

    Howard - Réponse

    4 picks and an exacto knife, plus 45 minutes later, I finally got it to open! Thanks tor the tip!

    Cat - Réponse

    Intact screen, check. Tool kit, check. Hair dryer hot enough to make the phone too hot to touch, check. Following all instructions, check. Screen still in place and refusing to come off, check.

    I heated, reheated, pulled and pulled. I simply could not get it off. Worked at it for an hour and a half, and I’m not a small guy. Yes it is hard to hold, but could get a grip. Just could not get it to budge. Off to the iPhone repair shop tomorrow. Anybody want to buy a repair kit and replacement battery?

    Jim Meyers - Réponse

    After struggling for 30m, I looked up some alternate methods and found this helpful:

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=25zAK5mG...

    - I used a utility knife and pried up right under the home button

    - the angle matters! I was trying to go too far down before going in. The top surface of the phone is rather thin, so you go in after barely getting under the chassis lip

    - tilt utility knife left to right once you’ve got it under to work it in

    - leave the utility knife in, and now add that pick

    Jared Wilk - Réponse

    Pro-tip: don't be an idiot like me. Instead, remove the screen protector you have on the phone before applying the suction cups. Derp.

    hunter.geofizz - Réponse

    I struggled with a hair dryer at first and a singular suction cup. However, I tried putting packing tape on the spot where I put the suction job (even though my screen isn't cracked) and I was able to do it first try with ease. Definitely recommend packing tape.

    Alessio Toniolo - Réponse

    Suction cup pliers. Dead easy

    Bradley Steiner - Réponse

    After successful screen replacement, returning to give my thanks here. Excellent tips from you all - if you’re using force, you’re doing it wrong. Heat, very very gentle exact-o knife barely down then fully under the screen below the home button … perfect. Slow and patient around the upper corners, and don’t forget to heat there as well! Thank you all!

    dantegd - Réponse

    The problems with this step are (1) not having three hands and (2) managing to hold the phone in a way that doesn't put reverse pressure somewhere else on the screen. Exacto knife was the best tip. It's a little dangerous. On a misstep you may scratch the screen or jab yourself, but it's what got me in.

    thewrytstf - Réponse

    sorry, could not lift off the display any nano-meter even after applying enough force I think and heating it up. need to visit a store.

    Andi Tony - Réponse

    I used a razor blade and plenty of heat, and it somehow worked like a charm at the cost of me cutting myself. Definitely be careful when doing this, I used the razor blade on the left side of the iphone then wedged in a small screwdriver and then used the pick to cut the rest of the material away.

    Sharaf Kazi - Réponse

  12. Remplacement de l'ensemble connecteur de charge Lightning de l'iPhone 8: étape 12, image 1 de 3 Remplacement de l'ensemble connecteur de charge Lightning de l'iPhone 8: étape 12, image 2 de 3 Remplacement de l'ensemble connecteur de charge Lightning de l'iPhone 8: étape 12, image 3 de 3
    • Faites glisser votre médiator le long du côté gauche en commençant par le bord gauche puis en progressant vers les boutons de contrôle du volume et le bouton du silencieux, pour faire céder l'adhésif qui maintient l'écran.

    • Arrêtez-vous juste avant le coin supérieur gauche de l'écran.

    • N'essayez pas d'écarter le bord supérieur de l'écran et la coque arrière, car des clips fragiles en plastique les assemblent.

    My Plektrum worked ok, but the edges broke off a bit towards the end

    griffin.weber - Réponse

  13. Remplacement de l'ensemble connecteur de charge Lightning de l'iPhone 8, Information sur l'écran iPhone: étape 13, image 1 de 1
    • Attention : il y a des nappes fragiles le long du bord droit de l'iPhone. En séparant l'adhésif, évitez ces zones pour ne pas couper les nappes concernées.

    I was trying to replace my battery, and accidentally cut one of the cords on my screen. I marked my pick, so i don't know how it happened.

    Gib Jeffries - Réponse

  14. Remplacement de l'ensemble connecteur de charge Lightning de l'iPhone 8: étape 14, image 1 de 3 Remplacement de l'ensemble connecteur de charge Lightning de l'iPhone 8: étape 14, image 2 de 3 Remplacement de l'ensemble connecteur de charge Lightning de l'iPhone 8: étape 14, image 3 de 3
    • Réinsérez votre outil dans le coin inférieur droit de l'iPhone, faites-le glisser le long du coin, puis progressez vers le haut, le long du bord droit du téléphone, pour faire céder l'adhésif.

    • N'enfoncez pas le médiator à plus de 3 mm, vous risqueriez d'endommager les nappes de l'écran.

    No pick in the kit you sent me.

    Ted Cooper - Réponse

  15. Remplacement de l'ensemble connecteur de charge Lightning de l'iPhone 8: étape 15, image 1 de 2 Remplacement de l'ensemble connecteur de charge Lightning de l'iPhone 8: étape 15, image 2 de 2
    • Tirez délicatement sur la ventouse pour soulever le bord inférieur de l'écran.

    • Ne soulevez pas l'écran à plus de 15°, sinon vous pourriez tendre ou déchirer les nappes connectées à l'écran.

    • Tirez sur la petite bosse de la ventouse afin de la décoller du panneau frontal.

  16. Remplacement de l'ensemble connecteur de charge Lightning de l'iPhone 8: étape 16, image 1 de 3 Remplacement de l'ensemble connecteur de charge Lightning de l'iPhone 8: étape 16, image 2 de 3 Remplacement de l'ensemble connecteur de charge Lightning de l'iPhone 8: étape 16, image 3 de 3
    • Faites glisser un médiator sous l'écran, le long du bord supérieur gauche et du bord supérieur du téléphone, pour faire céder le reste de l'adhésif.

    I did end up using just a smidge of IFIXIT adhesive remover along the edge before opening and that seemed to really help

    Karen Flowers - Réponse

    I have been using the pointed tweezers to pull the adhesive strands apart and out as the display comes off.

    Adam Yavner - Réponse

    This bit was awkward as to get a good grip I kept inadvertently switching the %#*@ phone on!

    wendyhoward - Réponse

  17. Remplacement de l'ensemble connecteur de charge Lightning de l'iPhone 8: étape 17, image 1 de 2 Remplacement de l'ensemble connecteur de charge Lightning de l'iPhone 8: étape 17, image 2 de 2
    • Faites glisser légèrement l'ensemble écran vers le bas (éloignez-le du bord supérieur du téléphone) pour ouvrir les clips le maintenant à la coque arrière.

  18. Remplacement de l'ensemble connecteur de charge Lightning de l'iPhone 8: étape 18, image 1 de 3 Remplacement de l'ensemble connecteur de charge Lightning de l'iPhone 8: étape 18, image 2 de 3 Remplacement de l'ensemble connecteur de charge Lightning de l'iPhone 8: étape 18, image 3 de 3
    • Ouvrez l'iPhone en faisant pivoter l'écran vers le haut en partant du côté gauche, comme s'il s'agissait de la couverture d'un livre.

    • N'essayez pas encore de séparer complètement l'écran, car plusieurs nappes fragiles le relient toujours à la carte mère de l'iPhone.

    • Calez l'écran contre un objet afin qu'il reste bien stable pendant que vous travaillez sur les composants du téléphone.

    Nach RECHTS klappen - nicht nach links!

    Manfred Wachtel - Réponse

    Als ich das Flachbandkabel auf der rechten Seite sah, hab ich mich auch gefragt, ob die das mit nach Links klappen ernst meinen, und das „Buch“ lieber auf japanische Art nach rechts aufgeklappt. Das sollte dringend in der Anleitung korrigiert werden!

    Sebastian Plickert - Réponse

    “Up from the left” means lift up the left side.

    Which is the same as folding to the right.

    “Like the back cover of a book” explains it even more clearly.

    Maybe it gets lost in translation?

    Nick Shtangey -

    Fold to THE RIGHT - not to the left!

    Jim Glenys - Réponse

    When I saw the ribbon cable on the right side, I also wondered if they were serious about folding it to the left, and the "book" would rather be opened to the right in the Japanese way.This should be corrected urgently in the manual!

    Jim Glenys - Réponse

    Hi Jim, the display opens from the left side, toward the right side. It should look like the back cover of a book. Hope this helps. Good luck with the repair!

    Adam O'Camb -

    DO NOT LAY THE TWO HALVES FLAT!!! There is a reason why the third photo shows the screen half leaning against a box! This really needs to be a warning in addition to the one about not separating the display.

    Mangled Jargon - Réponse

  19. Remplacement de l'ensemble connecteur de charge Lightning de l'iPhone 8, Déconnecter la batterie: étape 19, image 1 de 2 Remplacement de l'ensemble connecteur de charge Lightning de l'iPhone 8, Déconnecter la batterie: étape 19, image 2 de 2
    • Dévissez les quatre vis cruciformes qui fixent le cache de la nappe inférieure de l'écran à la carte mère. Les longueurs sont les suivantes :

    • Deux vis de 1,3  mm

    • Deux vis de 2,8 mm

    • Pendant toute la réparation, gardez la trace de vos vis afin que chacune d'entre elles retourne á sa place lors du remontage. Installer une vis au mauvais endroit peut causer des dommages irréversibles.

    • Retirez le cache.

    Not Y000 this time haha

    Easy Repair - Réponse

    can same length screws mixed up?

    Brook布魯克 - Réponse

    It is not ideal, but possible for these screws.

    Arthur Shi -

    using the repair kit i purchased with my screen replacement, i am currently having issues removing these screws with the PH000. please help

    Mark Ordaz - Réponse

    I was too, thankfully I had another set that contained the PH00 bit, that worked great for me.

    William Mitchell -

    Ok. My screw is stuck. How do I remove it? Philips head is stripped.

    Kristina Graham - Réponse

    Solved it myself. Firm pressure did the trick.

    Kristina Graham -

    Takes a little pressure with the Philips head

    John Toth - Réponse

    Upon this step, I noticed I had no bracket or screws. I had my screen replaced previously and I’m disappointed to find out the repairperson made no effort to replace these parts. I’ll start trusting myself more to do my own repairs.

    O D - Réponse

    took me awhile to figure out I needed to use PHOO bit for the 2 -1.3 screws

    Karen Flowers - Réponse

    It is important to keep careful track of the screws' position. Have a tidy workplace -- a few times when I tried to re-attach the very tiny screws with the tweezer, they slipped and flew away and I almost lost them.

    Matti Haveri - Réponse

    can you strip the screws / how can you tell if its strip or not

    antonio - Réponse

  20. Remplacement de l'ensemble connecteur de charge Lightning de l'iPhone 8: étape 20, image 1 de 2 Remplacement de l'ensemble connecteur de charge Lightning de l'iPhone 8: étape 20, image 2 de 2
    • Avec la pointe d'une spatule (spudger), soulevez le connecteur de la batterie pour le débrancher de sa prise sur la carte mère.

    • Repliez légèrement la nappe du connecteur pour empêcher que celui-ci touche accidentellement la prise et que le téléphone soit alimenté pendant que vous réparez.

    Make sure you pry the battery connector off from the right hand side as shown in the picture. Theres a delicate component on the logicboard near the battery connector called a Mosfet which is linked to the battery charging software. If you knock it off accidently you’ll loose battery charging and the phone will boot loop and youll need to have it re-soldered back on.

    Gareth - Réponse

    I can confirm this as I learned my lesson by unknowingly prying the mosfet off. The phone will not charge now and is useless. I really wish they would add a note about this on Step 12 as a warning.

    Jeff -

    So this is it. You don’t have to go any further removing the screen. You can replace the battery right from this point.

    John M - Réponse

    I wish I saw this comment 2 hours ago

    Kenneth Moore -

    If I have to repeat this, I'd also consider removing replacing the battery at this point. The loose display must be then carefully fixed so the connectors don't break. And then it is not possible to re-attach the waterproof seal.

    The waterproof seal was included in the kit, but there were no instructions for it so I now skipped that. I later found YouTube video which seems to describe it (starting at 7:40):

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RcgGRhaX...

    Matti Haveri -

    This is where I broke my phone, a phone that was working quite well, paid for in full. Just because I had a cracked screen. Be super careful when connecting the cables. I was in a hurry and not paying attention, used too much force when re-connecting and broke those teeny little pins that could not be repaired. A tech tried for an hour to no avail. cautionary tale. Good luck

    Karen Flowers - Réponse

    The display ribbon is a certain length and allows for some give, but behind it is hidden the Home button/TouchID ribbon, which sits against what amounts to a razor blade. This ribbon is much more taut than the display one, and therefore you have far less freedom of movement than you think you do. This is absolutely an intentional trap to discourage replacing your own battery. Quite frankly, it’s despicable.

    Anyway, so beware of that, because although I was very careful and did not even swing the screen very far (not more than 90°), the Home button ribbon tore and now needs to be serviced. Home button is disabled now.

    Apple should be ashamed of themselves for this. Please do look at the legislation effort that people are doing to try to get this kind of sabotage illegal, as well as all sorts of other gimmicks they pull. For a company that makes phenomenal products, they’re controlling like an abusive spouse.

    Dan Knight

    daniel - Réponse

    That happened to me and I could not figure out how it got broken. It's the home button and fingerprint reader.

    But I'm not bothering to get it fixed and I'm not replacing the entire screen. I went into system prefs/accessibility and activated the on-screen home button. Oh, well.

    Mangled Jargon -

    I cannot get the new battery reconnected to the connection port. Any tips/tricks? New and old battery connections appear similar. It wasn't difficult to disconnect to old battery.

    Robert Ast - Réponse

    Some reports here seem to indicate that the battery must be the very last connector to re-connect because otherwise there might be malfunction in some display components?

    It wasn't difficult to disconnect to old battery. But the most difficult part for me was to get the new battery reconnected to the connection port. I tried many times to carefully position and press it down with my fingertip or the flat end of the spudger but it did not hold its position. Maybe I pressed too weak because I was afraid breaking the connector and the mosfet above (?) it. But finally to my surprise it connected (at that point I temporarily booted the iPhone with the loose display to verify that the battery was connected). Whew, it succeeded!

    Matti Haveri - Réponse

    The connectors have very little "click" to them when they do seat properly, and are covered with soft foam. Very challenging to attach them by feel, and having the screen propped up, blocks light from exactly where you need it.

    Steve Trotman - Réponse

  21. Remplacement de l'ensemble connecteur de charge Lightning de l'iPhone 8, Déconnecter l'écran et la vitre tactile: étape 21, image 1 de 2 Remplacement de l'ensemble connecteur de charge Lightning de l'iPhone 8, Déconnecter l'écran et la vitre tactile: étape 21, image 2 de 2
    • Avec la pointe d'une spatule, débranchez le connecteur de l'écran inférieur.

    • Pour refermer un tel connecteur à pression, appuyez d'un côté jusqu'à ce que vous entendiez un clic, puis faites pareil de l'autre côté. N'appuyez pas au milieu. Si jamais le connecteur était ne serait-ce que légèrement mal aligné, il pourrait se tordre et causer des dommages irréversibles.

    I broke the lower display connector. Is it possible to replace that part separately or do I need to buy a full screen replacement?

    Ross Mckellar - Réponse

    You need to buy a new screen

    conrad veldhouse -

    이렇게 친절하게 정성스럽게 분해도 올리신 분은 처음이네요 진정 프로/ 기타 나머지 잡것들은 대충 올려 돈이나 벌어보자는 업자num들/ 배터리 교체하는 유툽 영상보다...업자가 올린 ...배터리 교체는 따라했으나 그후 배터리 교체와는 전혀 상관 없는 액정 뒤판을 jo빤다고 설명도 없이 뜯어 그것까지 따라하다 액정이 나가버려 지금 무주공산에서 홀로 검색하다 이걸 보게됨

    평생놀아난다 - Réponse

  22. Remplacement de l'ensemble connecteur de charge Lightning de l'iPhone 8: étape 22, image 1 de 2 Remplacement de l'ensemble connecteur de charge Lightning de l'iPhone 8: étape 22, image 2 de 2
    • Déconnectez le second connecteur de l'écran inférieur avec la pointe d'une spatule.

  23. Remplacement de l'ensemble connecteur de charge Lightning de l'iPhone 8: étape 23, image 1 de 2 Remplacement de l'ensemble connecteur de charge Lightning de l'iPhone 8: étape 23, image 2 de 2
    • Dévissez les trois vis cruciformes de 1,3 mm, qui fixent le cache recouvrant le connecteur de l'ensemble capteur du panneau frontal.

    • Retirez le cache.

    If you are replacing the adhesive liner, the remaining release liner strips will interfere with the two outer screws. I had to cut a working section out of the liner at each location and move it aside with the spudger.

    Thomas Tritt - Réponse

    This part is throwing me for a loop. Having difficulty finding the read head for these screws. Is it the same size as the two small 1.3mm screws in step 12?

    Jared Hensley - Réponse

    These are the same size screws mentioned in Step 17.

    Douglas Walker -

    ended up getting it with the PH000, I must of just been rushing it.

    Jared Hensley - Réponse

    My bracket looks different and none of the screw heads I have fits.

    Ray Rushing - Réponse

    Mine too? Any help?

    George Waller -

    These screws did not stick to the magnetic screwdriver. Extremely difficult to get them back in place - but with some patience i succeeded :)

    Niklas Brammer - Réponse

  24. Remplacement de l'ensemble connecteur de charge Lightning de l'iPhone 8: étape 24, image 1 de 2 Remplacement de l'ensemble connecteur de charge Lightning de l'iPhone 8: étape 24, image 2 de 2
    • Avec la pointe d'une spatule, débranchez le connecteur de l'ensemble capteur du panneau frontal.

    Do you have a link for the flex cord shown in the pictures so I can purchase it? Having a hard time locating that exact assembly

    Regal Carveiro - Réponse

    It’s of a piece with the front camera.

    xint - Réponse

  25. Remplacement de l'ensemble connecteur de charge Lightning de l'iPhone 8, Ôter l'ensemble écran: étape 25, image 1 de 1

    Hi ifixit, if you find my method dangerous, please remove it.

    After Step 17, I skipped Step 18 to Step 28.

    At Step 29, I lifted up the four adhesive black pull-tabs to expose the white adhesive side. Next, I use hot air gun and blow on the back cover of the iphone for about a minute (maybe a hairdryer will work too) .

    Warning: Don't overheat the iPhone, or you may accidentally ignite the battery.

    I think the temperature was around 60 DegC.

    Extreme Caution: Do Not overheat. I use my hand to gauge the hotness. Careful not to burn yourself or the board.

    I was able to pull out all the white adhesive tapes easily as the adhesive soften.

    DO NOT TRY this method if you are a novice or inexperience! I am not responsible if you hurt yourself or damage your iphone!

    John - Réponse

    Hey John! I’m glad the repair worked out for you!

    From our research, applying heat does soften the adhesive strips, but it also causes them to lose structural integrity and break more easily. That’s why we normally suggest using heat after the strips are already broken. Removing the Taptic Engine definitely takes a few extra steps, but we feel that it gives fixers the best chance of pulling out the adhesive strips intact.

    Arthur Shi -

    I agree with John, skip 18 through 27. These are to make it easier to remove the battery adhesive. I replaced the batteries on two IPhone 8s. The first one I did all that stuff and the adhesive still broken and I had to carefully pry the battery out anyway. When I reassembled the phone the Home button no longer worked. Looking it up, this is apparently fairly common due to all the fragile wires involved in these steps. The second I skipped these steps and when I reassembled it everything worked fine. Not one of the eight (both phones) adhesive strips came out properly. I fully drained the batteries before doing the repairs. By the way, I use the virtual home button on the one phone, it’s a little annoying, but the phone is still usable if you’re not ready to shell out for a new phone.

    Gary Berman -

    I also skipped removing the Taptic Engine. I could only half-way pull the lower battery tapes and completely the upper tapes after carefully prying them loose with the tweezer. I then used a hair-dryer for a minute to warm the battery and the other side of the phone (I used my other hand to make sure I did not apply too much heat. Make sure you do not blow the tiny loose screws away with the hair dryer!) and then slowly lifted the upper battery somewhat with the Opening pics tool, then re-heated the lower remaining tapes and quite easily lifted the battery out.

    I had bought two-sided tape to reconnect the battery but it had the tapes pre-installed (I wonder if it is necessary to tape the battery at all?).

    Matti Haveri -

    I also skipped these steps. I won’t say it was entirely successful - two of the four adhesive strips broke and could not be grabbed with tweezers. But I had gotten most of the adhesive out already and the battery was quite loose, so I used a warmer under the phone, then gently slid a flat plastic blade under one end of the battery and slowly worked it up the phone. (Dental floss would have been safer-don’t do what I did, kids!)

    Matt D - Réponse

    Likely can skip step 18-28 and all the risks. Battery tape is relatively removable by the following method

    - use a tweezer to pull up a corner of each tape. Then use fingers to peel back all the black tab on top of battery

    - use 2 hands. Index and thumb on both. Pull about 1/4” with one hand, hold the tension and pull 1/4” with the other hand. Alternate, go slow. Pull out all 4 tape completely. I think the pause after each 1/4” while holding the stretched tape firmly prevents the tape from over stretching to become too thin and break.

    - Don’t apply heat, I would guess that makes tape softer and break easier.

    Have tried other methods and failed in the past. Pulling too fast (tape will snap) or use a tweezer to twist/roll (sharp edges will cut tape) Anyway, just use index/thumb on both hands and alternately pull slowly

    I did do 2 iPhone 8 battery change this way. One removed all tape without breaking. Another broken all 4 tape after about 1/3 pulled so likely some factory assembly differeces.

    Howard - Réponse

    I second this, this method works well in most cases. Removing the haptics helps to keep the angle low and pulling the tape as straight as possible

    Hein Blöd -

    Howards method for removing the adhesive works like a charm. The only addition I made was to slightly warm the back of the iphone on a rice pack (used for sore neck muscles—haha). Going back and forth between hands is really crucial. While on hand gives a gentle pull, the other holds the phone from moving. Slow back and forth. Thanks.

    Lynn Thomas - Réponse

    Struggling with the glued down display, then properly cleaning all the remains of the old seal, then positioning the new seal is 95% of this job. I purchased my phone refurbished and it clearly had already been serviced once, there were remnants of an old seal below the current seal due to improper cleaning and prep that made getting the phone open harder than it needed to be.

    Steve Trotman - Réponse

    For my 2nd iPhone 8 battery replacement, I chose not to remove the display completely, or the Taptic Engine and I was successful. You have to pay extra attention and it is a bit trickier to keep the display from moving around too much, but I think minimizing the amount of screws and connections to take out, the better. You can easily lose the screws and you have to mind which ones go where, as there are so many different lengths. YMMV.

    tripmusic - Réponse

    In retrospect, I also would have skipped ahead to step 33. I didn't, but my efforts at removing the adhesive tape were also unsuccessful so steps 23-33 were for naught. Ended up applying isopropyl alcohol, then warming the back, and finally just physically levered the battery out. Battery was slightly deformed and became slightly warm, so as soon as I got it out I just put it outside on a brick.

    But the replacement worked.

    Peter Benson - Réponse

  26. Remplacement de l'ensemble connecteur de charge Lightning de l'iPhone 8, Ôter l'antenne de diversité Wi-Fi: étape 26, image 1 de 1
    • Dévissez les trois vis fixant le cache à côté du Taptic Engine :

    • Une vis Y000 de 1,3 mm

    • Une vis cruciforme de 2,7 mm

    • Une vis cruciforme de 2,9 mm

    My phone had Phillips screws in all three places, so I did not need the Y000 screwdriver bit.

    Daryl Maunder - Réponse

    I don’t see the point in steps 18-27 if we’re only changing the battery. I pulled out the sticky tape with taptic and all this other jazz still intact. Am I missing something? Reconnecting that taptic connection cost me 5 years off my life, needlessly.

    William Mitchell - Réponse

    Hey William!

    We instruct people to remove the Taptic Engine in order to minimize the chance that the battery adhesive will tear when you try to pull it out. The steep angle you have to pull the adhesive with the Taptic Engine installed dramatically increases the chance that the adhesive will break under the battery.

    Arthur Shi -

    since the sticky tape will usually tear anyway and it is no big deal, I agree stop at this point and take the battery out. Too many things can go wrong removing more screws and connecting/disconnecting all the connectors. Go to video instructions at this point. Wish I did.

    Bob McCall - Réponse

    My tape tore away and now my home button does not work, which from what I see is to do with the tapic engine. It seems to be more dangerous to do that than to use heat and pry the battery out (which I had to do anyway). You should at least put in an warning/option for users.

    Gary Berman - Réponse

    Hi Gary,

    The Home button connector is not related to the Taptic Engine and should not be affected by anything close to the battery adhesive. I would suggest carefully disconnecting and reconnecting the screen connectors, and make sure that there is no debris on the contacts. Be sure to disconnect the battery before you do this, or you will risk damaging the screen.

    Arthur Shi -

    Glad I stopped and watched the video at this point and skipped this step. Totally unnecessary, I used the iopener and heated the back of the phone before removing the battery with a pick and “ifixit card” came out easily. Not my first battery replacement.

    Rick Collins - Réponse

    Kompletter bullshit!! Im Video wird es anders gezeigt und die Schritte 18-27 werden komplett ausgelassen. Ist auch viel besser so, da so das Risiko, dass man die Taptic Engine schrottet, wie es mir jetzt beim ausbauen passiert ist, einfach nicht vorhanden ist. Ich kann auch nicht nachvollziehen, warum man in einer schriftlichen Anleitung zum Akku Wechsel komplett andere Schritte schildert als im Video. An der Stelle hat iFixit deutlich versagt. Ein Haufen Splasher…

    Maximilian Ament - Réponse

    Hallo Maximilian, du hast Recht, im Video wird die kürzere Methode gezeigt. Der Ausbau des Akkus ist für viele Menschen jedoch sehr schwer, wenn die Taptic Engine noch verbaut ist. Deshalb empfiehlt die Anleitung den Ausbau der Taptic Engine.

    Fabian Neidhardt -

    I can’t get the 2.7mm screw to tighten down the bracket.. not sure what i did wrong? the 2.9 will tighten in either place but the 2.7mm wont tighten anywhere.

    cb brooks - Réponse

    Kann es sein das dieser Schritt falsch ist? Ich habe einen Y000 Schraubendreher aus dem Iphone 7 Set. Der passt aber nicht bei der roten Schraube.

    Sebastian Dechent - Réponse

    The new part I received had two Phillips screws, so when you're doing the reverse, you may need to remove the screws from the new part before putting the old screws in, everything fit together otherwise

    Ronald Mitchev - Réponse

    I really hope you guys not to skip these steps. it is really hard to pull out string with taptic engine. 4 of 3 strings were cutted when I treid to detach batteries with taptic engine. So, I really recommend you to get rid of taptic engine before you start this step. But if you skipped and strings are cutted, there is a way. Use hair dryer 90 secs as maximum hot behind the battries and detach the batteries. It worked to me.

    Min Su Kang - Réponse

    The Y000 screw has an extremely shallow head and the screwdriver provided in the kit I used couldn't grip it at all. I skipped the entire taptic removal and was able to remove the adhesive with it in place by warming the phone then wrapping the end of the adhesive strips around a small screwdriver and gently rolling them out and away.

    Steve Trotman - Réponse

    You can totally skip removing the Taptic Engine. Even with broken adhesive strips, I was still able to get the battery out with some patience. I removed it once before on a replacement and the strips still broke off, so removing the engine was kind of a waste of time anyways.

    tripmusic - Réponse

  27. Remplacement de l'ensemble connecteur de charge Lightning de l'iPhone 8: étape 27, image 1 de 1
    • Retirez le cache.

  28. Remplacement de l'ensemble connecteur de charge Lightning de l'iPhone 8: étape 28, image 1 de 3 Remplacement de l'ensemble connecteur de charge Lightning de l'iPhone 8: étape 28, image 2 de 3 Remplacement de l'ensemble connecteur de charge Lightning de l'iPhone 8: étape 28, image 3 de 3
    • Faites délicatement glisser un médiator entre la nappe de l'antenne et la partie supérieure du haut-parleur.

    • Cette partie de la nappe adhère légèrement. Si nécessaire, chauffez un peu à l'aide d'un iOpener ou d'un sèche-cheveux pour ramollir l'adhésif. Ceci permettra de retirer la nappe facilement et en toute sécurité.

  29. Remplacement de l'ensemble connecteur de charge Lightning de l'iPhone 8: étape 29, image 1 de 2 Remplacement de l'ensemble connecteur de charge Lightning de l'iPhone 8: étape 29, image 2 de 2
    • Servez-vous de la pointe d'une spatule pour soulever et débrancher la nappe de l'antenne de diversité de sa prise sur la carte mère.

  30. Remplacement de l'ensemble connecteur de charge Lightning de l'iPhone 8: étape 30, image 1 de 3 Remplacement de l'ensemble connecteur de charge Lightning de l'iPhone 8: étape 30, image 2 de 3 Remplacement de l'ensemble connecteur de charge Lightning de l'iPhone 8: étape 30, image 3 de 3
    • Faites glisser un médiator sous la nappe de l'antenne pour maintenir la prise en place.

    • Avec la pointe d'une spatule, soulevez et déconnectez la nappe d'antenne de sa prise tout en appuyant sur la prise à l'aide du médiator.

    • Reconnecter cette nappe peut être une affaire délicate. C'est peut-être plus facile si vous vous servez d'une pincette pour aligner et maintenir la nappe au-dessus de sa prise. Puis appuyez tout droit vers le bas sur le connecteur avec l'extrémité plate d'une spatule jusqu'à ce qu'il s'enclenche.

    Don’t worry if the socket lifts up a bit as you get it out. You’ll need to lift it up later (Step 25) so don’t push it back into place yet.

    Daryl Maunder - Réponse

    Every instruction online (including your YouTube video) leaves the Taptic Engine in place. This added step did not help with battery replacement, and led to an hour of frustration trying to get the connector back in place.

    jgrsf - Réponse

    I noticed the same thing and wondered if it was necessary. Thanks

    Laura Bernal -

    Yeah, I broke the connector off of my taptic engine trying to get it to reconnect to the lighting connector plate….freaking nightmare with that and the co-axe wifi connector……..I now have a working phone without haptics

    dave -

    I agree jgrsf

    Bob McCall - Réponse

    I was glad I had the Taptic Engine removed when I failed to remove the battery adhesives. It leaves more room to work around the battery.

    Alexandre Deloffre - Réponse

    I agree. And when reassembling the wifi antenna, I connected the two plugs first, which worked fine, and only after that stuck the antenna back to its sticky place.

    dl7utx -

    I was following this for replacing the loud speaker. I found that during reconnecting the antenna flex, I slightly rocked the taptic connector and it came lose. I was frustrated because my pre-close up test had everything working, then I shut it down, made sure everything was connected and put it all together (including a bang-on job on the display adhesive!!) and wham - no taptic responses.

    Just finishing reseating it, fought with the antenna flex, then ensured the taptic connector was seated properly underneath. All good now.

    Bill Shannon - Réponse

    i cant get the small screw to tighten to hold the bracket in place. it just spins. the 2.7mm screw that is supposed to go into the lower left bottom. the 2.9mm screw that goes in lower right bottom will also snug down on lower left. I somehow messed up the hole I guess. can i use an extra 2.9mm instead of 2.7 mm ? if i can find one ? thank you

    cb brooks - Réponse

  31. Remplacement de l'ensemble connecteur de charge Lightning de l'iPhone 8: étape 31, image 1 de 1
    • Ôtez l'antenne de diversité Wi-Fi.

    What is Wi-Fi DIVERSITY antenna?

    Nikko - Réponse

  32. Remplacement de l'ensemble connecteur de charge Lightning de l'iPhone 8, Démonter le Taptic Engine: étape 32, image 1 de 1
    Outil utilisé dans cette étape :
    Standoff Screwdriver for iPhones
    $5.49
    J'achète
    • Dévissez les deux vis fixant le Taptic Engine :

    • Une vis cruciforme de 2,1 mm

    • Une vis d'entretoise de 2,1 mm

    • Le mieux est de dévisser les vis d'entretoise à l'aide d'un tournevis ou d'un embout pour vis d'entretoise.

    • Un petit tournevis plat peut aussi faire l'affaire, mais veillez à ce qu'il ne glisse pas et n'endommage pas les composants qui se trouvent autour.

    Tiene que ser una broma que en el kit no te venga el destornillador plano para abrir el tornillo separador. Me habeis dejado a mitad

    Charlie - Réponse

    Why is this screwdriver bit not included in the fix kit?

    It’s more important to get this unusual piece than a common Phillips head.

    Daryl Maunder - Réponse

    When reinstalling the standoff that connects to the Taptic Engine, I found that the pointy tip of the spudger fits really well into the little hole at the top of the standoff, and helps with getting it into place and screwing it down if you don’t have a screwdriver bit for the standoff. Hope this is helpful!

    Daniel Timothy Case - Réponse

    Be sure to look through all the packaging if you bought the iFixit replacement battery - the Standoff Screwdriver bit was in the package with the battery and screen adhesive (the box labeled “Repair Part”) rather than in with the tools (the box labeled “Repair Tools”).

    Owen Edwards - Réponse

    Thanks! This really saved the day for me.

    Javier Sanz -

    I just used a sharp knife for the orange one

    jackjaggermanjanson - Réponse

    I broke (twice) the ribbon cable on the tapic engine while trying to reinstall the taptic engine. I ended up taking the loudspeaker out which gave my finger a bit more room to press down and connect the cable to the phone. It was a royal PIA.

    johnoconna - Réponse

    Such a nice kit, great instructions, and then not include the standoff bit…what a miss…

    Martijn Smits - Réponse

    I used a 2.5mm flat screwdriver for the standoff (orange) screw.

    Habel - Réponse

    During reassembly, I inserted the stand-off screw by holding it with the provided tweezers and pushing it into place with the pointed spudger. While still pushing down with the pointed spudger to keep it from falling over, I turned the stand-off screw using the tweezers until it was firmly seated enough to let go of the spuder without the screw falling over. Then I was able to switch over to my 2.4mm flathead screwdriver and tighten it down. Otherwise the screw was jumping all over the place, magnetically attracted to the other components.

    Disappointing that the stand-off screw bit was not provided with the kit. I expect better from iFixit.

    Matt Brown - Réponse

    It appears that some aspects of the iPhone SE 2022 (3rd gen SE) began to appear in later versions of the 2020 model. I have an SE 2020 (A2275) that has a grounding clip anchored by the Phillips screw on LH side of the Taptic engine. This clip was not present in the original SE 2020 and thus, doesn’t appear in the images for this step. If you want to get a good look at the clip’s location and orientation follow these links to the corresponding steps in the iFixit guide for the 3rd gen model and Apple's own repair guide.

    SE 2022 (3rd gen) Lighting Connector Replacement -- Step 27

    Apple iPhone Repair Manual for SE 2022 (3rd gen) -- See bottom of page 49

    Robert Miller - Réponse

    THANK YOU ! I looked through the photos again and again and didn’t find this little thing on them.. now I finally know where to place it :-)

    Fabian -

    I agree with the previous comments. What I suggest is to do not remove the taptic engine. It's very frustrating to put back the connector, you have a very little space. If you don't remove it, you still have the space to work with the battery.

    Tamas Balogh - Réponse

  33. Remplacement de l'ensemble connecteur de charge Lightning de l'iPhone 8: étape 33, image 1 de 2 Remplacement de l'ensemble connecteur de charge Lightning de l'iPhone 8: étape 33, image 2 de 2
    • Avec la pointe d'une spatule, soulevez la prise de la nappe d'antenne vers le haut pour pouvoir accéder au connecteur qui se trouve en dessous.

    Just a heads up, I found a small bit of adhesive tape between the antenna cable socket and the connector below.

    Nic Giannandrea - Réponse

    Yep, I did find it too. Thanks

    Stefano Restuccia -

    Hola,

    Se me ha roto ese conector pequeño de la antena y no encuentro donde puedo comprar un repuesto. ¿Alguna idea?

    Gracias

    Eduardo Moral - Réponse

    I also found adhesive between the antenna cable socket and the connector below. I was not able to separate the two (mediocre middle-aged vision and lack of leverage to create the separation), and therefore was not able to fully disconnect the haptic engine. Instead, I gently wriggled the haptic engine out and, leaving it connected, rotated it 180 degrees and out of the way toward the bottom right corner of the phone. I am hoping that I have not damaged the thin ribbon cable. On the up side, for the first time ever I was able to remove the adhesive strips from under the battery (they didn’t break).

    John Weise - Réponse

    I just want to follow up to say that I did not damage the thin ribbon cable connecting the Taptic Engine. I did forget to reconnect it, though. Once I got that straight, it worked fine.

    John Weise -

    I found that the Antenna cable socket is best to remain attached to the taptic engine cable has i find that it is very easy to brake.

    I have in the past also broking the Taptic engine cable when trying to fit it to its sockets. the Taptic engine cable is very easy to brake so would advise that great care is taking when both fitting and removing.

    Jake Hearle - Réponse

    Yep, broke my cable…hoping i can order a replacement taptic engine,,,,phone works without it, but no vibrator or haptics

    dave -

    What on earth is the secret to reconnecting the Taptic Engine?

    I have been messing with it for hours.

    mrmacfixit - Réponse

  34. Remplacement de l'ensemble connecteur de charge Lightning de l'iPhone 8: étape 34, image 1 de 2 Remplacement de l'ensemble connecteur de charge Lightning de l'iPhone 8: étape 34, image 2 de 2
    • Prenez la pointe de votre spatule pour soulever et déconnecter la nappe du Taptic Engine.

    I found that this cable was glued down with similar adhesive to the screen. It pulled away as I removed the taptic engine from the phone (next step).

    Daryl Maunder - Réponse

    My taptic engine had two screws on the lh side. still worked the same.

    Chris Rainone - Réponse

    Be really careful here in the reassembly. I managed to rip the cable here, and now best case I won’t have any haptic feedback. :(

    Nick Cox - Réponse

    I’m sorry to hear that! If you’d like to get that fixed sometime, we do sell a replacement part!

    Arthur Shi -

    On re-assembly, the taptic engine might not work. Before panicking, ensure that the taptic engine connector didn’t get dislodged when fighting to get the antenna flex reconnected.

    Bill Shannon - Réponse

    on my A1905 iphone 8 - This is not correct!

    There is an extra leg coming off the taptic engine’s flex cable with a micro-coax antenna connector going underneath the speaker!

    You can’t take the engine off yet!!

    Jason Minahan - Réponse

    I have the same issue and confirm the coax connector under the speaker …. can you buy this Taptic Engine anywhere? The one with the extra leg ?

    James -

    A hint for reassembly: carefully crease the ribbon cable upwards along the edge of the connector so the stiff ribbon doesn’t touch the engine, pushing the upper connector too far away from the engine to line up with the lower connector. Once the cable isn’t interfering, you don’t have to worry as much about breaking it or having it get in the way. It’s still tricky to get the connectors lined up. I had luck by using one set of tweezers to hold and stabilize the short sides of the upper connector (silver rectangle). I used another set of tweezers (spudger would also work) in my other hand to finesse the connector alignment and push the connectors together. Look carefully at the first photo in this step: the connector is almost exactly centered below the taptic engine screw.

    jeffreyknicholson - Réponse

    my phone is doing a squeeking sound everytime i press the home button and sometimes if i press long on the screen.

    something is off with the taptic engine i think.

    any idea how to fix it?

    Rita H - Réponse

    Any suggestion on why the 2.7 mm screw no longer holds down the bracket. 2.9 mm screw works in either hole .but the 2.7 mm no longer secures the bracket, can I swap it out with another 2.9 mm screw?. And where do I find one. Will it work if it’s missing that screw? Space. I have an old iPhone SE maybe I can find 2.9 screw in that . Thanks

    cb brooks - Réponse

    Re-assembling the Taptic Engine connector is difficult. After struggling unsuccessfully for 45 minutes I ended up bending up the metal tab on the right side of the phone with tweezers, then with the Taptic Engine tipped on end (not positioned in phone) I could get the cables connected. With the tab on the phone bent upward I was able to slide the mounting tab on the left side of the Taptic Engine under the tab on the left side of the phone case and then bend it back down. This needs to be done carefully to avoid damaging the cable on the Taptic Engine.

    Mark Dige - Réponse

    Be careful -- there are two cable connectors stacked on top of each other here, and you want to attach the taptic engine to the bottom one. When reattaching the taptic engine connector, make sure that the antenna connector is pulled back -- it is designed to sit right above the connector for the taptic engine, and just by memory it rests back in the same spot. Without reviewing the previous step in reverse, it would be easy to attempt to connect to the top socket, potentially causing damage.

    brendonart - Réponse

    There’s two cables here that are almost impossible to separate. I put some effort on the haptic cable and it immediately sheared off. I have no idea how you’re supposed to properly separate them

    Nicholas Head - Réponse

    The reassembly is very difficult. The connector needs to be closer to the taptic engine than what the stiff ribbon allows. I had to bend the ribbon a bit with tweezers to narrow the gap between the connector and the taptic engine so that the connector would meet with the slot... after I spent half an hour trying to coax it.

    Scott Green - Réponse

    I agree with the previous comments. What I suggest is to do not remove the taptic engine. It's very frustrating to put back the connector, you have a very little space. If you don't remove it, you still have the space to work with the battery.

    Tamas Balogh - Réponse

    Be careful the taptic engine cable is less then paper thin and tears with less resistance then a peice of paper, use extreme caution!!!!!
    i ripped mine and after taking it out and testing the strength of the cable it took less force to tare then tearing a sheet of paper.

    there is plenty of room for this cable to be three times as thick with no interference, this is just anti repair design.

    penguin2fish4rain - Réponse

    Taptic engine is hard to put back

    Having the phone orientation taptic at the bottom, I used a pick vertically to the right of the connector (to the right of the stand off screw) to align the connector to the right place, then press it into place, glad that the pick is near the exact thickness needed to align the connector

    Danh Kyndt - Réponse

    Very difficult to reattach haptic ribbon into socket.

    You have to use spluger tip on one side of ribbon connector (wedge on edge of connector) and push it towards the Taptic Engine.

    Once the connector pushed against it and while the spluger is still in place holding it in position, then use other hand to gently push connector down to connect

    Coolj Coolj - Réponse

  35. Remplacement de l'ensemble connecteur de charge Lightning de l'iPhone 8: étape 35, image 1 de 1
    • Ôtez le Taptic Engine.

    Where there is the 2,1mm philips srew holding the taptic engine (left), there is a tiny piece of metal under the srewhead. Note its orientation, take it out and dont't lose it taking out the taptic engine, then reinstall it when reassembling. When reassembling, the said fixing hole of the taptic engine is not on top, but has to be pushed under a little metal piece, it won't even fit on top. Then reinstall the tiny metal piece and put the screw in.

    dl7utx - Réponse

    So glad someone else mentioned this. This piece may be a late model revision. Looks like it adds additional grounding to a point on the frame. It's easy to misplace!

    Demetri -

    I damaged the graphite film underneath the battery while removing stubborn adhesive. Can I buy replacement graphite film? Should I remove it altogether since some sections ripped? What purpose does this serve? Thank you for any information.

    Anne Marie Hammock - Réponse

    Hi Anne,

    The graphite film helps dissipate heat during wireless charging and to transfer heat out of the battery. It doesn't need to be in one complete piece in order to work—if the film can lay flat, I'd leave it in place.

    Arthur Shi -

  36. Remplacement de l'ensemble connecteur de charge Lightning de l'iPhone 8, Retirer le conduit du baromètre: étape 36, image 1 de 1
    • Dévissez les deux vis qui fixent le conduit du baromètre à la coque arrière :

    • Une vis cruciforme de 2 mm

    • Une vis cruciforme de 1,8 mm

  37. Remplacement de l'ensemble connecteur de charge Lightning de l'iPhone 8: étape 37, image 1 de 2 Remplacement de l'ensemble connecteur de charge Lightning de l'iPhone 8: étape 37, image 2 de 2
    • Poussez délicatement le conduit du baromètre vers la batterie afin de faire céder l'adhésif qui le fixe au bord inférieur de l'iPhone.

  38. Remplacement de l'ensemble connecteur de charge Lightning de l'iPhone 8: étape 38, image 1 de 1
    • Retirez le conduit du baromètre.

  39. Remplacement de l'ensemble connecteur de charge Lightning de l'iPhone 8, Déconnecter la carte mère: étape 39, image 1 de 2 Remplacement de l'ensemble connecteur de charge Lightning de l'iPhone 8, Déconnecter la carte mère: étape 39, image 2 de 2
    • Servez-vous de l'extrémité plate d'une spatule (spudger) pour déconnecter le connecteur de la nappe de la caméra en le soulevant tout droit hors de sa prise.

    When replacing, used iFixit tweezers to gently hold/bend the cable, and used my finger to press the connector back in place. This was the best way I could get the connector lined up and seated properly.

    Habel - Réponse

  40. Remplacement de l'ensemble connecteur de charge Lightning de l'iPhone 8: étape 40, image 1 de 1
    Outil utilisé dans cette étape :
    Standoff Screwdriver for iPhones
    $5.49
    J'achète
    • Dévissez les deux vis qui fixent le cache de la caméra arrière :

    • Une vis d'entretoise de 3 mm

    • Une vis cruciforme de 3,1 mm

    • Le meilleur outil pour dévisser les vis d'entretoise est un tournevis pour vis d'entretoise ou un embout.

    • Un petit tournevis plat peut aussi faire l'affaire, mais veillez à ce qu'il ne glisse pas et n'endommage pas les composants qui se trouvent autour.

    The screw and standoff are the other way round in this step. The photo shows the small screw removed and the standoff securing the logicboard is circled incorrectly. Also you may find that the standoff screw is not magnetic, making it a little tricky to replace!

    Michael Millington - Réponse

    Hi Michael,

    You are correct; thanks for catching that! The original image was correct, and for some reason the image was updated, and no longer correct. I have reverted it back to the original image.

    Arthur Shi -

    wrong Screws in Picture

    mmiller - Réponse

    Be careful when reassembling. These screws came demagnetized for me in the process, and they’re really hard to put in if that happens.

    Nick Cox - Réponse

    These screws are not magnetized! If you are trying to put them back, use some tweezers to align them, and while still using the tweezers, grab your standoff driver and push down, then you can screw it in with ease.

    Sean - Lua Tech - Réponse

    Thanks for the tip.

    Habel -

    I used a 1.5mm flat screwdriver to do the one with the standoff bit.

    Habel - Réponse

  41. Remplacement de l'ensemble connecteur de charge Lightning de l'iPhone 8: étape 41, image 1 de 1
    • Ôtez le cache de la caméra arrière.

  42. Remplacement de l'ensemble connecteur de charge Lightning de l'iPhone 8: étape 42, image 1 de 2 Remplacement de l'ensemble connecteur de charge Lightning de l'iPhone 8: étape 42, image 2 de 2
    • Débranchez le connecteur du flash de sa prise en le soulevant tout droit vers le haut avec la pointe d'une spatule.

    The small connector is not actually for the flash, the flash and mic module are just below that and connect to the same cable as the power button.

    Bonrad C - Réponse

  43. Remplacement de l'ensemble connecteur de charge Lightning de l'iPhone 8: étape 43, image 1 de 1
    • Dévissez les deux vis qui tiennent le cache de la nappe supérieure :

    • Une vis cruciforme de 2,9 mm

    • Une vis cruciforme de 1,3 mm

    Logically - one wouldn’t need to take out all these things to take out something at the bottom of the phone - but in order to get good access to it, you must remove the logic board - which is long and all the way up at the top connected to the antenna. Follow the steps - it works.

    Chris Rainone - Réponse

  44. Remplacement de l'ensemble connecteur de charge Lightning de l'iPhone 8: étape 44, image 1 de 1
    • Retirez le cache de la nappe supérieure.

  45. Remplacement de l'ensemble connecteur de charge Lightning de l'iPhone 8: étape 45, image 1 de 2 Remplacement de l'ensemble connecteur de charge Lightning de l'iPhone 8: étape 45, image 2 de 2
    • Soulevez le connecteur de la nappe supérieure avec l'extrémité plate de la spatule pour le débrancher de sa prise.

  46. Remplacement de l'ensemble connecteur de charge Lightning de l'iPhone 8, Retirer le composant antenne supérieur gauche: étape 46, image 1 de 1
    • Dévissez les trois vis cruciformes de 1,3 mm qui maintiennent le composant antenne supérieur gauche.

    1,2mm ! not 1,3mm ! thx

    Boni Zei - Réponse

  47. Remplacement de l'ensemble connecteur de charge Lightning de l'iPhone 8: étape 47, image 1 de 1
    • Retirez la vis cruciforme de 1,4 mm qui fixe le composant antenne au bord supérieur de la coque.

    Be careful not to strip this screw...I did and I'm going to try to proceed without taking off the antenna component.

    Jacob Steineke - Réponse

    Update: You can still go on with the replacement if you do not take off the antenna component

    Jacob Steineke -

    I think this screw is stripped on my iPhone , shittt. So I can just skip this part? or what?

    Jesse henrique -

    If you can avoid putting in battery after this screw, that’ll be easier. I wound up using bit only with my fingers to get an initial thread going.

    anonymous 6745 - Réponse

  48. Remplacement de l'ensemble connecteur de charge Lightning de l'iPhone 8: étape 48, image 1 de 1
    • Enlevez le composant antenne.

    This is the GPS antenna module.

    anonymous 6745 - Réponse

  49. Remplacement de l'ensemble connecteur de charge Lightning de l'iPhone 8, Retirer le clip de mise à la terre supérieur gauche: étape 49, image 1 de 1
    • Dévissez les deux vis cruciformes qui fixent le clip de mise à terre au bord supérieur gauche de la carte mère :

    • Une vis cruciforme de 1,5 mm

    • Une vis cruciforme de 2,6 mm

  50. Remplacement de l'ensemble connecteur de charge Lightning de l'iPhone 8: étape 50, image 1 de 1
    • Ôtez le câble de mise à la masse.

    what happen if don't put this part?

    albert saens - Réponse

    Hi Albert,

    It’s hard to tell. Most phone functions will probably work, but you may start getting quirky problems.

    Arthur Shi -

    If it comes out it must go back in *no spare parts *

    Josh Brito - Réponse

    J'aurais plutôt dit "...le câble de mise à la masse"

    RobertAncet - Réponse

    Bonjour @roroancet, merci beaucoup de votre remarque ! Cela nous a donné l'occasion de plonger dans l'univers de l'électricité ! Il s'avère ainsi que la mise à la masse est le terme approprié ici. J'ai corrigé notre erreur. La prochaine fois, n'hésitez pas à le faire vous-même. iFixit est un wiki modifiable par tout le monde. Encore merci pour votre attention !

    Claire Miesch -

  51. Remplacement de l'ensemble connecteur de charge Lightning de l'iPhone 8, Dévisser la carte mère: étape 51, image 1 de 1
    • Dévissez les trois vis qui tiennent la carte mère :

    • Une vis cruciforme de 1,8 mm

    • Une vis d'entretoise de 2,5 mm

    • Une vis d'entretoise de 2,2 mm

    The One 1.8 mm Phillips screw was buried under some gasket material. It took some twezzer work to get that material off.

    I.T. Service Desk - Réponse

    this is probably the most difficult part because the ‘top 2.5 mm on my version was under a piece of ribbon cable that had to be pulled back. Also notice - this picture is inverted. So the locations are reversed (obviously for clarity)

    Chris Rainone - Réponse

    The 1.8mm was indeed buried.

    fotoband - Réponse

    Buried 1.8mm Phillips easily located under the gasket material by zooming in on the photo to see position relative to connectors. Material is fibrous, so be patient.

    Ben Sandness - Réponse

    I’ve been searching on internet about the black stickers on those parts in the phone and I found nothing about them, what are they? Electrical Tapes? Does it make any differences if we remove them? If yes is, there anything else we can use to replace them? We’re they are for any specific purposes? Thanks in advance if anyone can help me understand

    EverWill - Réponse

    Used a 2.5 mm flat screwdriver for both of the standoff screws. There was definitely black adhesive covering the 1.8mm Phillips. As Ben Sandness said, take your time, keep working at it.

    Habel - Réponse

  52. Remplacement de l'ensemble connecteur de charge Lightning de l'iPhone 8: étape 52, image 1 de 2 Remplacement de l'ensemble connecteur de charge Lightning de l'iPhone 8: étape 52, image 2 de 2
    • Prenez une pincette pour replier délicatement de côté le support de mise à terre de la carte mère.

  53. Remplacement de l'ensemble connecteur de charge Lightning de l'iPhone 8: étape 53, image 1 de 2 Remplacement de l'ensemble connecteur de charge Lightning de l'iPhone 8: étape 53, image 2 de 2
    • Utilisez la pointe d'une spatule pour déplacer l'éjecteur de la carte SIM hors de la carte mère.

  54. Remplacement de l'ensemble connecteur de charge Lightning de l'iPhone 8, Déconnecter le connecteur Lightning: étape 54, image 1 de 2 Remplacement de l'ensemble connecteur de charge Lightning de l'iPhone 8, Déconnecter le connecteur Lightning: étape 54, image 2 de 2
    • Soulevez et déconnectez la nappe du connecteur de charge Lightning de sa prise sur la carte mère à l'aide de la pointe de la spatule.

    Replacement tip - be sure to prepare a U-shaped bend into your new flex cable at this connection prior to installing the adhesive-backed flex cable.

    I did not think of this and as a result when I get to reconnecting this part to the logic board, the flex cable had a lot of spring in it and wanted to rebound and lay flat (as it was shipped.) This step really should emphasize how important it is to get that bend formed into your new flex cable.

    fotoband - Réponse

    On reassembly seems to be impossible to make this connection. Male and female don’t seem precisely lined up, even though I lined up the screw holes with this component and followed all the instructions carefully. And if not precisely lined up, then it’s impossible to get this long connector to stick. Seriously disappointing.

    Tom Schaeffer - Réponse

    Die schlimmste Connection an allen Iphones.

    Konnte beim Iphone 8 gerade so, den neuen Connector anschliessen. Nach 6 versuchen und die ganze Klebeverbindung lösen. Das Flexkabel will zurückspringen und der neue Connector muss so exakt montiert/geklebt werden. Habt hier viel geduld!

    Pascal Bitterli - Réponse

  55. Remplacement de l'ensemble connecteur de charge Lightning de l'iPhone 8, Déconnecter la bobine de charge sans fil: étape 55, image 1 de 2 Remplacement de l'ensemble connecteur de charge Lightning de l'iPhone 8, Déconnecter la bobine de charge sans fil: étape 55, image 2 de 2
    • Prenez la pointe de la spatule pour soulever et débrancher le connecteur de la bobine de charge sans fil.

  56. Remplacement de l'ensemble connecteur de charge Lightning de l'iPhone 8, Retirer la carte mère: étape 56, image 1 de 2 Remplacement de l'ensemble connecteur de charge Lightning de l'iPhone 8, Retirer la carte mère: étape 56, image 2 de 2
    • À l'aide de l'extrémité plate d'une spatule, soulevez délicatement la carte mère du côté du connecteur de la batterie vers le haut.

    • Faites attention à ne forcer sur aucune nappe. Si vous sentez de la résistance, vérifiez que ni nappe, ni connecteur, ni composant n'est relié à la carte.

  57. Remplacement de l'ensemble connecteur de charge Lightning de l'iPhone 8: étape 57, image 1 de 3 Remplacement de l'ensemble connecteur de charge Lightning de l'iPhone 8: étape 57, image 2 de 3 Remplacement de l'ensemble connecteur de charge Lightning de l'iPhone 8: étape 57, image 3 de 3
    • Saisissez la carte mère par les bords, du côté du connecteur de la batterie, soulevez-la et retirez-la.

    • Faites attention à ce que la carte mère ne reste accrochée à aucune nappe.

    During re-assembly, pay close attention to position the logic board under all the cables include the flash cable. The cables can get flattened out once the components are released and easily slip under instead of over where they need to be.

    Irina - Réponse

  58. Remplacement de l'ensemble connecteur de charge Lightning de l'iPhone 8, Retirer le haut-parleur: étape 58, image 1 de 1
    • Dévissez les deux vis fixant le haut-parleur à la coque arrière :

    • Une vis cruciforme de 1,5 mm

    • Une vis cruciforme de 2,1 mm

    I beleive at this step you should illustrate the importance of watching that antenna cable next to the speaker. It can easily ‘pop’ off of its co-ax connector when removing the speaker. Mine did and i was wondering where the extra part came from. And reconnecting it IS A NIGHTMARE!!! If you get it alligned correctly I found a metal bit with the same diameter of the co-ax socket needs to be used to press the connector into place, but it never ‘clicks’ or pops so you have to assume its connected when it dosent fall back off

    dave - Réponse

    I had a similar issue as Dave. What worked for me was attaching it to the component before installing the whole charging port into the phone’s frame.

    Jenny Lawson - Réponse

  59. Remplacement de l'ensemble connecteur de charge Lightning de l'iPhone 8: étape 59, image 1 de 1
    • Enlevez le haut-parleur.

    Will an iPhone 8 loudspeaker work in an iPhone SE 2020?

    Larry Jorgenson - Réponse

  60. Remplacement de l'ensemble connecteur de charge Lightning de l'iPhone 8, Retirer le connecteur Lightning: étape 60, image 1 de 1
    • Retirez les trois vis qui tiennent la nappe du connecteur Lightning :

    • Une vis cruciforme de 1,3 mm

    • Deux vis cruciformes de 2,2 mm

    Pas une, mais deux vis cruciformes de 2.2mm

    RobertAncet - Réponse

    Oups, vous avez décidément un œil de lynx :) Merci beaucoup pour la remarque ! Je viens de corriger le texte.

    Claire Miesch -

  61. Remplacement de l'ensemble connecteur de charge Lightning de l'iPhone 8: étape 61, image 1 de 1
    • Dévissez les deux vis cruciformes de 1,4 mm qui fixent le port Lightning au bord inférieur du téléphone.

  62. Remplacement de l'ensemble connecteur de charge Lightning de l'iPhone 8: étape 62, image 1 de 2 Remplacement de l'ensemble connecteur de charge Lightning de l'iPhone 8: étape 62, image 2 de 2
    • Servez-vous de la pointe d'une spatule pour soulever délicatement le microphone qui se trouve du côté de la carte mère et le décoller de l'adhésif qui le maintient en place.

    • N'essayez pas de retirer complètement le microphone ; décollez-le juste de l'adhésif comme montré sur la photo.

    Be patient and use a heat source I used a hot/cold ice pack. When trying to separate, I used the pointed end of a spudger, rolling it between my fingers as I started in the corner as shown in the pictures. With my left thumb, i held the black plastic bracket in place (the chamber where the speaker goes out of the bottom).

    Habel - Réponse

    I applied a steady pressure against connector with plastic tool and it slowly gave way. I didn’t use heat.

    anonymous 6745 - Réponse

  63. Remplacement de l'ensemble connecteur de charge Lightning de l'iPhone 8: étape 63, image 1 de 2 Remplacement de l'ensemble connecteur de charge Lightning de l'iPhone 8: étape 63, image 2 de 2
    • Avec la pointe de la spatule, soulevez délicatement le microphone qui se trouve du côté de la carte mère et détachez-le de l'adhésif qui le maintient en place.

    • N'essayez pas de retirer complètement le microphone ; décollez-le juste de l'adhésif comme montré sur la photo.

  64. Remplacement de l'ensemble connecteur de charge Lightning de l'iPhone 8: étape 64, image 1 de 1
    • Posez un iOpener chaud en bas du téléphone et de travers, de même que sur la photo. Cela permettra de ramollir l'adhésif de la nappe.

  65. Remplacement de l'ensemble connecteur de charge Lightning de l'iPhone 8: étape 65, image 1 de 3 Remplacement de l'ensemble connecteur de charge Lightning de l'iPhone 8: étape 65, image 2 de 3 Remplacement de l'ensemble connecteur de charge Lightning de l'iPhone 8: étape 65, image 3 de 3
    • Faites glisser un médiator sous la partie supérieure de la nappe de l'ensemble du connecteur de charge Lightning et commencez à décoller la nappe de la coque arrière.

    • Faites délicatement glisser le médiator vers le bord extérieur de l'iPhone (en l'éloignant de la batterie).

    • Une partie de la bobine de charge sans fil se trouve juste en dessous de ce segment de la nappe du connecteur de charge Lightning. Si vous progressez de façon agressive, vous risquez d'endommager la bobine.

    • Si nécessaire, servez-vous de votre sèche-cheveux ou iOpener pour refaire chauffer à plusieurs reprises la zone derrière la nappe de l'ensemble connecteur de charge Lightning et faciliter le décollage de la nappe.

  66. Remplacement de l'ensemble connecteur de charge Lightning de l'iPhone 8: étape 66, image 1 de 3 Remplacement de l'ensemble connecteur de charge Lightning de l'iPhone 8: étape 66, image 2 de 3 Remplacement de l'ensemble connecteur de charge Lightning de l'iPhone 8: étape 66, image 3 de 3
    • Continuez à détacher le segment supérieur de la nappe en faisant attention à n'endommager aucun composant en passant.

    • Repliez délicatement le connecteur de la batterie pour éviter de l'endommager.

    • Faites très attention à ne pas endommager la batterie même. Une batterie perforée peut laisser s'échapper des substances chimiques dangereuses et/ou prendre feu.

    • Arrêtez de déplacer votre médiator une fois que vous avez dépassé le bord inférieur de la batterie.

  67. Remplacement de l'ensemble connecteur de charge Lightning de l'iPhone 8: étape 67, image 1 de 2 Remplacement de l'ensemble connecteur de charge Lightning de l'iPhone 8: étape 67, image 2 de 2
    • En commençant dans le coin du téléphone, faites glisser le médiator sous la nappe, vers le connecteur de charge Lightning.

    • Arrêtez-vous quand votre médiator atteint le connecteur de charge Lightning.

  68. Remplacement de l'ensemble connecteur de charge Lightning de l'iPhone 8: étape 68, image 1 de 2 Remplacement de l'ensemble connecteur de charge Lightning de l'iPhone 8: étape 68, image 2 de 2
    • Tirez délicatement le connecteur de charge Lightning hors de son emplacement dans la coque arrière.

  69. Remplacement de l'ensemble connecteur de charge Lightning de l'iPhone 8: étape 69, image 1 de 2 Remplacement de l'ensemble connecteur de charge Lightning de l'iPhone 8: étape 69, image 2 de 2
    • Faites glisser un médiator sous le connecteur de charge Lightning pour continuer à décoller l'ensemble et la coque.

    • Continuez à faire glisser le médiator jusqu'à ce que l'ensemble connecteur de charge Lightning n'adhère plus à la partie inférieure de la coque arrière.

  70. Remplacement de l'ensemble connecteur de charge Lightning de l'iPhone 8: étape 70, image 1 de 2 Remplacement de l'ensemble connecteur de charge Lightning de l'iPhone 8: étape 70, image 2 de 2
    • Faites glisser un médiator entre le bord gauche de la coque et la partie de l'ensemble Lightning qui est encore collée.

  71. Remplacement de l'ensemble connecteur de charge Lightning de l'iPhone 8: étape 71, image 1 de 3 Remplacement de l'ensemble connecteur de charge Lightning de l'iPhone 8: étape 71, image 2 de 3 Remplacement de l'ensemble connecteur de charge Lightning de l'iPhone 8: étape 71, image 3 de 3
    • Ôtez l'ensemble connecteur de charge Lightning.

    • Avant d'installer ou de remplacer l'ensemble connecteur de charge Lightning :

    • Grattez pour enlever tous les résidus d'adhésif de la coque arrière avec un outil en plastique. Vous pouvez prendre de l'alcool isopropylique à haute concentration pour nettoyer la surface.

    • Avant de retirer le film adhésif de protection, vérifiez que l'ensemble connecteur de charge Lightning est posé correctement. Il faut que le trou dans la nappe soit aligné avec la tige de la vis. Si ce n'est pas le cas, vous ne pourrez pas reconnecter la nappe à la carte mère.

  72. Remplacement de l'ensemble connecteur de charge Lightning de l'iPhone 8: étape 72, image 1 de 3 Remplacement de l'ensemble connecteur de charge Lightning de l'iPhone 8: étape 72, image 2 de 3 Remplacement de l'ensemble connecteur de charge Lightning de l'iPhone 8: étape 72, image 3 de 3
    • Un joint en caoutchouc sur la partie inférieure du connecteur de charge Lightning protège votre iPhone de l'intrusion de liquides et de poussière. Si vous installez un nouvel ensemble de connecteur Lightning, vous devrez peut-être retirer le joint d'étanchéité et le transférer soigneusement sur la nouvelle pièce.

    • Le petit patch adhésif en bas de chaque microphone protège également votre iPhone de l'intrusion de liquides et de poussière. Pour de meilleurs résultats, remplacez les deux patchs adhésifs avant d'installer votre ensemble connecteur de charge Lightning.

    • Vérifiez si votre nouvelle pièce inclut la nappe du convertisseur de l'antenne. Si ce n'est pas le cas, servez-vous de la pointe d'une spatule pour soulever et transférer la nappe de votre ensemble Lightning d'origine sur le nouveau.

    If you need to replace the adhesive patches shouldn’t they be recommended and sold/included?

    fotoband - Réponse

    Hi fotoband,

    Our replacement part should have the adhesive pre-attached and ready for use.

    Arthur Shi -

    i'm installing this part right now, and it definitely does not have the adhesive pre-installed. my phone will no longer be water-proof after i finish this repair. i whole heartedly agree that that adhesive should be pre-installed.

    more-over, the small nightmare antenna connector should DEFINITELY be pre-installed on this piece. having to take a tiny component off the old part to reinstall onto the new part is outrageous for this kind of thing, especially with how high a chance you have of just destroying the small component or the new part. it's kinda ridiculous

    That dude -

    Die Anleitung ist klasse, aber “benutze die Spudgerspitze, um das Kabel von der alten Lightning Connector Einheit hochzubebeln und auf die neue zu übertragen” ist mit Abstand der schwierigste Teil der ganzen Angelegenheit. Die ganzen Teile und das Werkzeug alles super, aber dann nehmt 5€ mehr und macht an die Lightning Connector Einheit direkt den Konverter ran. das ist so winzig und fummelig, dass ich an dieser Stelle wahrscheinlich die neue Connector Einheit oder zumindest den Antennenkonverter zerstört habe. Schade

    Billy Bonez - Réponse

    I don’t understand how to change the antenna converter cable. I can pry it off of the old part just fine but it doesn’t click back to the new part? Do you actually need to solder it together?

    coffings - Réponse

    The cable has a coaxial connector and can be slightly tricky to click back. Make sure to align it properly and press it down firmly with your fingers.

    Arthur Shi -

    Transferring the antenna connector was by far the trickiest bit of the entire repair for me. Getting it aligned and click back into place took ages, all the time worried I’d damage the fragile coax connector.

    DarrenG - Réponse

    Ahhh… the antenna convertor cable is a NIGHTMARE to re-connect. You need to get it alligned correctly with a pair of tweezers, then I found a metal bit/rod of the same diameter as the co-ax socket and needs to be used to press the connector into place with a stright downward motion, but it never ‘clicks’ or ‘pops’ into it’s proper seating, so you have to assume its connected when it dosent fall back off of the lightning connector plate. THEN, reconnecting the taptic engine right over top of its connector runs the chance of popping the antenna connector back off again. Its a frustrating battle that you need to be fresh for…not at 1AM

    dave - Réponse

    The tip with the tweezers really helped me out! Thanks for sharing that!
    I was not able to stick the converter cable on the fresh lightning unit, while it stuck back on the original one without issues.
    Blunt metal tweezers did the trick. @ifixit: Please make that an extra step of the guide!

    Jan-Philipp Apel -

    Well, I thought this was going pretty well, but I’ve just destroyed my new part and the antenna cable trying to mate them together. Not sure this repair is “moderate” enough for me.

    Sylvain Poitras - Réponse

    Is this piece (the aforementioned tricky converter cable) the cellular antenna? I’m trying to identify which component actually receives the cellular signals. If it is removed and/or left off, Will this completely disable the cellular connection?

    Alberta I Stein - Réponse

    This piece looks to convert a coaxial antenna socket into a press connector. If this is removed, whatever antenna this is connected to won’t work.

    Arthur Shi -

    This part sucks. I got it on once with a nice click, but it flew off when gently touched by another piece. After that, it seemed to not go on again, no more reassuring click. I tried for hours to line it up. So I got it to where it seemed to connect close enough and hot glued it. Terrible, but it works.

    Skyler Barto - Réponse

    My microphone isn’t working when I talk through earpiece or more it’s super muffled, but I sound clear as day when on speakerphone, is there something I can do to fix that? Did I put the lightning connector wrong?

    Eliezar Gonzalez - Réponse

    I've been attempting for the last few hours to replace this part. Honestly I cannot describe how mad I am at iFixit for not selling the lightning connector with the antenna converter already attached. It's impossible to attach. What a rip off.

    valfells - Réponse

    DO NOT: install your RF connector before you’ve installed the lightning connector assembly.

    DO: install the Lightning connector assembly into place first, then with a pair of blunt tweezers position the small antenna converter into the general place (not necessarily aligned) and adjust as necessary. I used touch to feel it was positioned correctly, then with bright light and magnification I verified the position. I squeezed the connector into place with the tweezers. With one side of the tweezers on the connector and the other side behind the phone I squeezed the connector into place.

    I broke one assembly in the process. Not easy.

    anonymous 6745 - Réponse

    I spent an hour or so trying to re-install the antenna converter cable to the new Lightning connector, without success, though it snapped back onto the old part just fine. The new part's lack of ANY 'feel' of the coax aligning set off my alarm bells. I did not want to push straight down too hard and do damage. I removed the sponge pad on top of the coax connector so there's something a little more stable to push on, and using a .093" dia. punch to get a good vertical, square push - nope. Nothing to lose now, so I tried the suggestion to install the Lightning connector assembly first. Nope. The square end of the cable's flex sure looked centered over the coax on the new part, so I slowly increased pressure. Now the new part's coax looks worn and mangled, and never STARTED to seat. Sure looks to me like a diameter mismatch between Apple's OEM and this aftermarket part's coax. VERY DISAPPOINTED. My phone is toast without Lightning AND wifi! Should I risk buying another kit?

    scottmillett - Réponse

    After a couple of failed attempts, I realized after careful examination that the antenna converter cable still had parts of the old part’s coax on its connector. I removed this with a pair of tweezers and succeeded in connecting it to the new part with less trouble than expected after reading this comment section. Might help someone!

    Jonatan Ekstedt - Réponse

Conclusion

Comparez votre pièce de remplacement neuve à l'originale. Il se peut que vous deviez transférer des composants manquants ou retirer les films adhésifs de la pièce neuve avant de l'installer.

Pour remonter votre appareil, suivez les instructions ci-dessus en sens inverse.

Amenez vos déchets électroniques à un recycleur R2 ou de déchets électroniques certifié.

La réparation ne s'est pas déroulée comme prévu ? Consultez la section iPhone 8 de notre communauté Réponses pour recevoir de l'aide au diagnostic.

108 autres ont terminé cette réparation.

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Arthur Shi

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27 commentaires

I love how you mention the “antenna converter cable” twice but never show what the &&^& that part even looks like??

I only hate Humans. - Réponse

Sorry about that! It’s actually shown in the 3rd image in the last step. I cropped the photo so that it’s zoomed in more to show it.

Arthur Shi -

I would HIGHLY recommend not attempting this fix. I have done a variety of repairs on iPhones (screens, batteries, etc.) and decided to try this to address a broken microphone. I could make regular phone calls but couldn’t use speakerphone or FaceTime. After replacing the lightening charger using the instructions and the iFixit parts, I still can’t use the speakerphone or FaceTime function. To make matters worse, my phone won’t charge through the lightening connector, won’t wirelessly charge, and people can’t hear me even when I make a regular phone call anymore. In other words, I started with one fairly minor problem and, due to this repair, have a whole bunch of new (much more significant) issues. Don’t make the same mistake I did.

Aaron Nelson - Réponse

Don’t know about the charging issues, but the reason replacing the microphone didn’t help is because you replaced the wrong microphone.

iPhone 8 has 3 mics.

- One for regular phone calls - which is the one you replaced

- One for the front-facing camera - which is used for the speakerphone and FaceTime and is located near the earpiece

- One for the back-facing camera

Nick Shtangey -

Excelente guía..!!

Jorge Lonjedo - Réponse

It the port paired to the phone? like Touch ID, or can you just replace it without and issue?

Robinson Shaffer - Réponse

Hi Robinson,

The port is not paired to the phone.

Arthur Shi -

Phone doesn’t turn on. Is there any other tips??

carl mercado - Réponse

Hi Carl,

You can try some common troubleshooting tips. Hopefully that will resolve the issue. If not, please browse and post on our Answers forum.

Arthur Shi -

Excellent guide. Took just over 1 hour to complete, phone charges and earphones work again. This is my daughters phone so she is very happy.

David Dunsire - Réponse

Im having an issue where whenever i attach the lightning cord connector the screen wont turn on but when i detach it the screen will turn on, is there anyway to fix this?

Sara A - Réponse

Repair completed using this guide and the iFixit kit. Took me quite a bit longer than 2 hours (I spent almost an hour making sure ALL the old glue was off before fitting a new seal!) but with the help of the magnetic project board the job went perfectly and I can now charge my phone again. Speaking of the project board, I would consider this an absolute essential to complete this job. The phone has to be pretty much taken apart and you end up with a multitude of differing length/type screws which are easy to mix up….and it’s not that easy to tell a 1.2mm screw from a 1.3mm screw!

Lacy Kyle - Réponse

Well, that was a pain in the ass… But it works!:)

Trym Thorén - Réponse

Does anyone know where I can get the small “antenna converter cable”? Sadly, mine broke and it’s seems to be near impossible to just get the converter cable…I know that the wifi works without it, but I’d rather replace the broken thing…

malteweber - Réponse

Thank you for putting this together. The Youtube videos are so fast, you really need the pics and instructions. It was greatly appreciated!

Chris Rainone - Réponse

My charger port still does not work, even after a replacement. ••Sad••

Great Guide though!! Even remembered the teeeeenie tiny antenna. LOL!

Jonathan - Réponse

Well, this was by far the hardest repair I’ve ever done. (I’m pretty comfortable with these types of repairs and have done 4-5 screen repairs and home button replacements.) It took about 5 hours. (I had a few mishaps where something was reassembled under something else and I had to take it back apart to get it to seat correctly.) I managed to sever the taptic feedback engine ribbon cable and I couldn’t get the antenna back in, but my phone still seems to make and receive calls with decent signal, use WiFi, and use cellular data, so I’m not exactly sure what that does.

So, TL;DR, the phone dropped in water and wouldn’t charge. Now it does charge, but the haptic feedback on the home button doesn’t work, and I’m guessing it won’t have as strong a signal due to the antenna loss. But it was probably worth it for a ~$20 part instead of replacing the phone for ~$200.

Nick Cox - Réponse

I’ve done a number of iPhone batteries, screens, and even other lightning connectors. This repair is a big job, with almost all of the phone components being removed to replace the lightning connector board. This was also my first iFixit repair that was unsuccessful. At the end of about 5 hours of work and troubleshooting, I was left with no use from the lightning connector, no cellular signal, and a phone stuck in a reboot cycle. I am relatively confident in my work and reassembly and it was quite possibly a faulty part—but at the end of the day I was at a point where I can’t wait days and days for replacement parts to further troubleshoot.

Instructions on this were mostly clear, though there are gaps in the reassembly as there are no specific photos or written directions for the replacement screens and seals around the microphone/speakers/etc. You can see how the old parts were installed, so not a big issue.

Ben Sandness - Réponse

I agree, this is a BIG job, especially when doing it three times. I missed “You may need to transfer remaining components…“ in Step 66 and in the Conclusion so back tracked to transfer the tiny wifi flex to charging port transition cable from the old part. New part didn’t allow the phone to charge! Took it back apart and reassembled then it wouldn’t even power on. Disassembled it one more time , put the old part back in, and it worked like it did before - lightening cable won’t stay plugged in.

Ordered a replacement for the replacement part. Also had to order the transition cable (from Repairs Universe, by the way). This cable is very small and fragile and a PITB to connect.

So I’ll try this one more time once I get the parts and forget how difficult this was.

Could not - would not! - have done this without Arthur Shi’s guide. Thank you for the time you spent making it!

TJ Cope - Réponse

That “antenna converter cable“ is a nightmare to transfer over. The circular connector on it enlarges once taken out and now it is so loose that it is impossible to reattach it to the new lightning assembly! I Guess i will be leaving that one unattached. Does anyone know the exact function of that one? Frequency? Does it carry wifi or cellular signal? The iphone seem to work fine without it.

Jansen Yong - Réponse

Excellent guide. Thank you for your time putting this together.

M.bishop - Réponse

Gran tutorial , muchas gracias

pablo - Réponse

Thanks for that awsome Guide. After there were no spoken messages or face time calls possible due to a not working mic, the change of the connector part was done in approx. 2h. Now everything work quite well.

One which helps me a lot was to connect the connector to the main board before that was re assembled and the flex band was fully glued to the frame. So the position was given by assembling the mainboard and it works perfectly. In the first round the connector was slightly out of position, which ends in a not working mic and charging function, but after re-assembling it with the right position it works.

Tobias Hahn - Réponse

This took way longer than the 1-2 hours they stated, however this is only my 3rd phone repair and definitely the hardest repair I've done yet, but the guide was definitely complete, and if anyone is reading this, don't be discouraged by the difficult comments, it definitely wasn't as hard as it seems, just very long and very tedious. Side note, this is a great time to replace the battery also, since the taptic engine has to come out anyway.

Ronald Mitchev - Réponse

I got to the last step of re-attaching the antenna converter cable, and the co-ax connector on the new lightning connector piece got bent while trying to press it together. I take responsibility for my own handiwork – but why does the replacement piece not come with the antenna converter cable pre-attached? It's such a finicky and delicate piece that as others mentioned above, is quite difficult to connect properly. This would be a good change for the next iteration of this.

Jake Kuhn - Réponse

So my sons iPhone SE is turning off after 2.5 min and I’m wondering if this is the problem. I did a screen replacement and battery replacement and didn’t help after replacing battery. I think I disconnected this part when disconnecting the battery. Could this be the problem?

Julia G - Réponse

It would be a good idea to mention how to plug in the micro coaxial connector, which is not supplied with the spare part. It is so tiny that it is very difficult to plug it.

RobertAncet - Réponse

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