Introduction
La batterie ne tient plus la charge ? Remplacez-la (ceci nécessite de la soudure).
Ce dont vous avez besoin
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Insérez un éjecteur de carte SIM ou un trombone dans le trou près de la prise casque.
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Appuyez jusqu'à ce que le tiroir de carte SIM sorte.
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YOU NEED TO PUT THE OPENER TOOL BETWEEN THE ANTENNA COVER AND THE DOCK CONNECTOR FIRST, THEN YOU WILL HAVE SPACE TO OPEN IT.. MY 2 CENTS
You better lay off the caps.
Very hard to remove and the plastic is very fragile
Take care when removing
When you get stuck follow this guy guide
Great Guide.
My dad banged his iPhone in a table after arguing with someone and got the aluminum cover next to the volume control bent in such a way as it got the volume control stuck in the max position. I used this guide to remove all parts out of the way so I can get the shape of that region and corrected it the "Han Solo" Way. It was an excellent opportunity to get the phone cleaned up as well
The biggest problem I had was screwing some of the screws back. The screwdriver that I had was not magnetized, so I used a little bit of superglue to bind the screw and the screwdriver until I had it screwed tightly.
The second biggest problem I had was that I lost a screw twice, but was lucky enough to find it quickly on the floor next to me.
I am very happy as I waited more than a month to get the confidence to get this iPhone repaired.
Citation de Ivanfrost :
how do i know what part is in my phone? There are 2...
Once you have the phone apart and have gently unplugged the power ribbon, read the part number on the ribbon. If it's in the 821- family, you can safely use corresponding 821 headphone assembly. If it is the other part number, use the newer replacement. Many sites list both parts and let you order the appropriately numbered part. Otherwise (if you order the wrong part) it won't work or you'll have to [unnecessarily] hack the part to get it to work.
Citation de Steve :
Once you have the phone apart and have gently unplugged the power ribbon, read the part number on the ribbon. If it's in the 821- family, you can safely use corresponding 821 headphone assembly. If it is the other part number, use the newer replacement. Many sites list both parts and let you order the appropriately numbered part. Otherwise (if you order the wrong part) it won't work or you'll have to [unnecessarily] hack the part to get it to work.
I bought the wrong one.... how do I hack it?
My iPhone is very first model. It doesn't have any of the four tabs shown.
The very first model does not have the four tabs. To open this version, use a plastic opener tool and push it into the middle of the tiny space between the rectangular dock connector and the antenna cover. Move the tool to the side and push it in a little deeper. A small gap should open up at the bottom of the antenna cover, where it meets the metal. Continue using the plastic opener tool in there, pushing it in and forcing it around the edge so that the antenna cover further separates. Then repeat this on the other side. To me it seems like a very brittle piece of plastic, so be careful. But now that it's loose at the bottom you can lift it with your fingers and work it off.
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Insérez une spatule (spudger) en métal dans la fente entre le connecteur de dock et le cache de l'antenne. Faites délicatement levier près des deux languettes pour créer un petit interstice entre le cache de l'antenne et le joint frontal argenté.
Take heed to the note about getting the spudger between the dock connector and the cover. The dock connector is black plastic, as is the antenna cover, so it's difficult to see any gap between them. Putting the spudger between the metal shielding of the connector and the plastic is incorrect.
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Insérez un opening tool (outil d'ouverture en plastique) dans l'interstice entre le cache de l'antenne et le cadre avant. L'extrémité en forme de cale doit pointer vers le cache de l'antenne. Faites glisser l'outil autour du coin et vers le haut jusqu'au revers métallique.
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Répétez la même procédure de l'autre côté du connecteur de dock.
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Saisissez le cache de l'antenne des deux côtés et faites-le glisser vers le haut et hors de l'iPhone. Ceci peut demander une certaine force. Si le cache ne s'enlève pas, vérifiez qu'il a été suffisamment soulevé pour dégager les loquets.
It was released very hard on my iPhone 2G but the problem comes when i have to put it back.
It remains a little more space between the dock and the Antena cover and maybe that's because the two tabs between the mic and the speaker are not entered under the gold board?
If someone knows please tell me how to put it back.
Thanks
There is a very easy way to remove the cover by simply sticking duct tape on it and pulling the tape away of the phone.
It will leave no marks and it didn't damage my antenna cover as much(my "chinese" repair tools were to weak).
Thanks, using the tape was quick and easy, no damage at all.
Roeland -
Brilliant. Works perfectly. 20 seconds of work.
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Retirez les trois vis cruciformes #00 qui maintiennent le panneau arrière fixé à l'iPhone.
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Le petit trou carré est l'endroit où il faut insérer le cure-dents lors de la prochaine étape.
Be sure to use the square hole, more to the inside, not the one between the outer shell and the little piece of metal. The Outer shell is attached to the metal.
You guys show this is vanilla dessert. And it's more difficult than building a DIY space shuttle. I wonder why Apple did the iPhone so problematic to disassemble. It's just the battery!
I've seen some instructions recommending using a knife to open up a space between the back cover and trim. Using the dental pick as shown here, it is very easy to break off the screw attachment near the edge of the cover.
Agree with Bill, I did break off one of the screw attachments. In retrospect, using a small putty knife between the cover and battery (which I'm replacing anyways) to apply force against the cover while prying at the hole would have helped.
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Faites levier sur le panneau arrière en tournant rapidement le cure-dents en sens inverse des aiguilles d'une montre (trigonométriquement). Appliquez la force perpendiculairement au plan de l'écran. N'hésitez pas de faire ce mouvement rapidement, si vous le faites lentement vous risquez davantage de tordre le boîtier.
ugh. i totally mangled my case. snapped off the 2 outer screw brackets... broke my dental pick, too. and my small screwdriver. thank goodness for craftsman tools! ;)
i was pretty disheartened by the whole thing, but i keep it in a hard shell anyway so it's not that noticeable.
What material is that dental pick made of? Adamantium?
I could NOT get this method to work. I tried three different picks and all bent when I tried to lever them this way. I did break one of the frame screws off in the process as well. I ended up going back to my old standby... The Exacto Knife and a 1/8 inch flat head screw driver... I used the exacto to get the flat head started, then worked my way up one side toward the top of the phone slowly and carefully wiggling the screw driver until it popped open on that side. Then I did the same to the other. That worked well for me. These plastic openers and dental picks just bent and broke on me. GOOD LUCK. My Advice: Get a 3G or 3GS, I can break one down in under a minute!
I didn't have a dental pick. I used a narrow, flexible hobby putty knife. The button side edge popped right off. The blank side required me to slowly wiggle along, continually pushing the putty knife up to 2" to detach each of the clips.
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Répétez la même procédure de l'autre côté de l'iPhone. Faites glisser le cure-dents complètement dans le trou carré. Il va probablement falloir tortiller l'outil et forcer un peu pour le faire rentrer entièrement.
wich dental pick should I use? I´d bought some but they twist or didn´t fit on the scare... thx in advance and really good guide!!
I know this is old, but I've had some success. Rather than the dental pick, which I bent too, I ground down a very small "L" bend hex wrench. Worked like a champ. Also: If you have an iPhone 4 and are looking to use the microSIM in your 1st gen iPhone with the use of a microSIM adaptor... DO NOT put the empty adaptor in the SIM slot. That's what I did and had to dismantle the phone to get it repair the SIM contacts.
Actually, the "button" side released fairly easily and I was able to loosen the top end with a plastic spudger. However, the remaining side was a @#!@! and the process of popping it off caused the protruding screw lug to break off the internal guide, which itself came off seconds later. Oof! While the side guide was easily glued back in, the lug ultimately became a casualty since it was too small and unweildy to SuperGlue™ back on. But, as Meat Loaf wisely sings, "two out of three ain't bad." The 'phone can live w/o one screw and possibly two if the center lug remains.
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Faites levier sur le panneau arrière en tournant rapidement le cure-dents en sens inverse des aiguilles d'une montre (trigonométriquement). Appliquez la force perpendiculairement au plan de l'écran. N'hésitez pas de faire ce mouvement rapidement, si vous le faites lentement vous risquez davantage de tordre le boîtier.
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Le panneau arrière est toujours relié à l'iPhone par la nappe de la prise casque, ne retirez donc pas encore entièrement le panneau arrière de l'iPhone.
I've seen some guides that recommend a technique for prying up on the center of the case. if you do so, it is easy to accidentally damage the battery if you pry in the wrong direction.
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A l'aide d'une spatule (spudger), déconnectez la nappe de la prise casque de la carte mère.
You need to stick the end in, and it detaches if you push it upwards.
A picture of what the dental pick is poking at would be useful inside the back case. If you get on the wrong side of the frame rail you can break the ear where the screw goes pretty easily with that pick (yes it appears to be titanium). Guess that is why only the plastic pick was part of the toolset, but used a metal one as depicted and ran into this. As you say this is challenging, and more pictures are better.
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Utilisez la pointe d'une spatule (spudger) pour enlever la colle blanchâtre qui couvre les contacts de la batterie.
they seem to use lead-free solder in the original construction process. goody for the environment, but it made it really hard to get the original battery loose. i added a little bit of regular solder to what was already there and then was able to wick away the original.
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En travaillant à partir du bord opposé aux connecteurs de la batterie, insérez une spatule (spudger) entre la batterie et le châssis en plastique, puis faites levier vers le haut. La batterie est fixée au boîtier avec un adhésif, mais elle devrait se décoller lentement.
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Attendez environ une minute pour que la solution alcoolisée affaiblisse l'adhésif.
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Utilisez l'extrémité plate d'une spatule pour soulever délicatement la batterie.
What work for me very well was to leave the original wires at the pads on the system board, cut them at an appropriate length and soldered the new battery to them. Of course you have to insultate them with tape or glue. There is enough space and you avoid any risk of messing up the system board.
Dito. Cut the wires and spliced with the new battery wires. Had to peal away some of the white tape on the new battery to get enough wire to work with. Used some of the kapton tape from the old battery to insulate the splices (electrical tape too thick).
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Placez la tresse à dessouder sur la soudure existante.
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Posez le fer à souder sur la tresse à dessouder posée sur la soudure existante.
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Gardez le fer à souder en place jusqu'à ce que la soudure fonde et soit "aspirée" par la tresse.
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Répétez la même procédure pour les deux autres connecteurs restants.
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Retirez la vieille batterie de l'iPhone. Assurez-vous d'avoir enlevé toute la soudure avant de retirer les fils. Les fils doivent s'enlever très facilement.
It is probably much easier to remove the solder with the wick, so be sure to get some. I did it without and it took forever.
Using the desoldering wick is a good idea. I thought I could heat up the existing solder and pull the wire out but it is very easy to rip off the solder pad if you get the connection too hot.
much better to detach the 3 cables (white, red and black) from the battery rather than from the chassis.
If you’re replacing the battery anyway, it’s far easier to cut the wires to the battery first. Then you don’t need to worry about which one to desolder first etc.
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Faites fondre une petite bille de soudure directement sur le connecteur en plaçant le fer à souder sur le connecteur en métal, puis en pressant la soudure contre la pointe et la surface.
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Lorsque une petite quantité de soudure a été fondue sur la surface, retirez d'abord la soudure, puis le fer à souder.
It's very important to clean and prep the terminals before attaching the new leads. Get rid of as much glue as possible and any stray solder that might be left from the un-soldering process. Make sure all three terminals are electrically isolated from their neighbors! Like the instructions tell you, leave no more than a nice little pinhead-sized dome of shiny solder on each terminal and no 'cold' solder connections, which have the characteristic DULL GRAY lustre. If you must--do them over or risk having to pop the dang thing open all over again!
What do I do if the red connector to the mother board comes off? Is there any other point I could solder to?
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Citation de XereX :
If you accidentally ruin the negative (the black wire) soldering bead like I did. Then the big metal plate is an alternative for a negative connection. Just solder it directly onto this plate and it should work perfectly.
Um.. im not sure if exactly this happened to me... so the small squre piece came off with the black wire :( where should I solder it now? On that black little spot or somewhere else? Thanks for any help!
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Placez le fil de la nouvelle batterie sur la nouvelle bille de soudure.
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Posez la pointe du fer à souder sur la bille de soudure jusqu'à ce qu'elle fonde.
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Faites glisser le fil métallique dans la soudure liquide jusqu'au centre de la bille puis retirez le fer à souder.
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Procédez le la même manière avec les deux autres connections, tout en faisant bien attention de ne pas souder deux connections ensemble.
Try to experiment with the temperature of the soldering iron if you can adjust it. If it's too hot for the solder you have, it'll melt it away in a small, spectacular boil and evaporation sequence.
When you get the battery and get it ready for installation leave the red wire in the heat shrink plastic wrap until you solder it to the board, and here's a tip... when you go to solder the battery to the board solder the black wire first and then the White but leave the plastic wrap on the red wire on until last... when you start soldering do it in this order and it will limit the chance of shorting out the device (black, white, red)
But I have a replacement battery with a yellow instead of the white
raf -
But mine has a yellow wire instead of a white
raf -
Citation de ascent :
Hi Chris, do you know anything about the question I asked in Step 20? I tore off a little square piece where the black wire was soldered. Should I try soldering it on the same spot or I should put it somewhere else? Thanks!
I have the same problem, but a litle different, tore off the little square where the white wire was soldered. Same question, should I try to solder on the same spot, or somewhere else ?
Citation de ascent :
Hmm.. I would really appreciate some comments from people who know a little bit more than me :( please help!
You should be able to solder to either the big metal shield there or GENTLY (VERY GENTLY) remove a bit of the PCB top where the pad was to reveal the copper below it. I stress GENTLY, like barely scraping a razor over it with no pressure. If you do it too aggressively you'll go through the layer.
First of all: thanks for the fantastic manual! I successfully fixed a broken solder bead, but due to a very raw, non-precise soldering iron, the solder bead of the black connection also touches the silvery metal plate (the one that can be seen in the top part of the step 20 image).
Any problem with that? It is working fine for one day now.
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Pour remonter votre appareil, suivez les étapes dans l'ordre inverse.
Pour remonter votre appareil, suivez les étapes dans l'ordre inverse.
Annulation : je n'ai pas terminé ce tutoriel.
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2 commentaires
Where can I source an iPhone 2g battery in 2018?
Click on the button on the top of this page that says, “iPhone Gen 1 Replacement Battery available for sale on eBay”
To remove the SIM, insert the end of a SIM eject tool or a small thin paper clip into the hole on the SIM tray. Press firmly and push the tool straight in until the tray pops out.
http://support.apple.com/kb/ht1438
neuronetix - Réponse
I put the SIM card back in, and the slide to unlock does not work.
dean -
The only carrier to accept this iPhone was AT&T, they have discontinued use of that baseband. Nobody else in the world except for early renegade reverse engineers such as Geohot can get the device to work as a really old iPod no use unlocking the device because the technology inside the most recently OEM sold/refurbed iPhone 1st gen fails universally. You should only buy a screen assembly and snap it onto the back and call it a dummy phone and put it in a museum.
Alexander Weinhart - Réponse