Introduction
Les batteries iPhone se dégradent à l'usage. Au fil du temps, leur capacité de charge baisse. Les batteries d'Apple sont estimées tenir 80 % de leur charge pendant près de 500 cycles, ce qui équivaut à environ 18–24 mois pour la plupart des utilisateurs. La détérioration des éléments chimiques de votre batterie peut causer le ralentissement de votre iPhone. Remplacez votre batterie iPhone X avec ce tutoriel et votre iPhone sera à nouveau au top de ses performances.
Si votre batterie iPhone X est gonflée, prenez les précautions appropriées.
Ce tutoriel vous indique comment retirer complètement l'écran, puis le haut-parleur inférieur et le Taptic Engine. Vous accéderez ainsi plus facilement aux bandes adhésives de la batterie. Le changement de batterie iPhone X sera donc plus rapide.
Pour obtenir des performances optimales après avoir terminé ce tutoriel, calibrez votre batterie nouvellement installée : chargez-la à 100 % et laissez-la charger pendant deux heures supplémentaires. Puis utilisez le téléphone jusqu'à ce qu'il s'éteigne à cause de la batterie faible. Rechargez-le ensuite sans interruption jusqu'à 100 %.
Ce dont vous avez besoin
Vidéo d'introduction
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Éteignez votre iPhone avant de commencer à le démonter.
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Dévissez les deux vis Pentalobe de 6,9 mm en bas de l'iPhone.
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Si les vis sont dénudées ou endommagées, remplacez-les.
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Recouvrez l'écran de bandes de ruban adhésif, qui se chevauchent, jusqu'à ce que toute la surface soit couverte.
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Si la ventouse n'adhère pas au cours des étapes suivantes, pliez un morceau de ruban adhésif épais (du ruban adhésif toilé p.e.) pour former une poignée et soulevez l'écran de cette façon.
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Tirez la poignée bleue vers l'arrière pour débloquer les bras de l'Anti-Clamp.
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Insérez le côté droit ou gauche de votre iPhone entre les bras.
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Positionnez les ventouses en bas de l'iPhone, une sur le dessus, l'autre en dessous.
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Appuyez sur les deux ventouses pour qu'elles adhèrent bien.
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Tirez la poignée vers l'avant pour bloquer les bras.
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Tournez la poignée dans le sens des aiguilles d'une montre, de 360 degrés ou jusqu'à ce que les ventouses commencent à s'étirer.
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Vérifiez que les ventouses restent bien alignées entre elles. Si elles commencent à se décaler, détachez-les pour les réaligner.
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Chauffez un iOpener et faites-le passer à travers les bras de l'Anti-Clamp.
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Pliez l'iOpener de façon qu'il repose sur le bord inférieur de l'iPhone.
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Attendez une minute que l'adhésif se ramollisse et qu'un espace s'ouvre.
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Insérez un médiator sous l'écran et le joint en plastique, et non dans l'écran.
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Passez les trois étapes suivantes.
DO NOT separate the glass from the plastic bumper or rim around it. These instructions don't clarify that the pick has to be inserted between the plastic rim and the metal body. It is likely that the glass will lift slightly off the plastic surround before the plastic will lift out of the metal body. I had success sliding a card or pick back and forth along the bottom edge of the plastic rim while pulling on the suction cup. Eventually there was a space large enough for the pick to go under the plastic rim.
Thanks for pointing this out! I'll revise this step to clarify this point.
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Utilisez un sèche-cheveux ou un pistolet à air chaud ou préparez un iOpener et appliquez-le sur le bord inférieur de l'iPhone pendant environ une minute afin de ramollir l'adhésif qui se trouve en dessous.
General tip regarding heating necessary to remove adhesive:
consider using a heated tip of a small screwdriver or metal spudger (not the one made of plastic, provided in kit), rather than to heat the device itself.
You then need to be careful about the temp of the tool which if hot enough can melt plastic components or harm them. Keeping the heat source (heat gun) far enough away from the object that you’ll eventually melt the glue but would be much harder to melt components. I try to keep 4” or 5” gap between the source & object
Thanks for the info. Could a air convector do the job
If you have a 3d printer, heat the bed to 80c and put the phone screen side down on it for 30 secs
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Si vous utilisez une ventouse simple, posez-la au niveau du bord inférieur du téléphone tout en évitant la partie incurvée du verre.
If you were using some form of screen protector, it may come off first as soon as you pull on the suction cup. Do not be alarmed. That is normal behavior.
3m VSB double stick tape will stick to the screen when the suction cups fail (see my comment on step 1)
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Tirez fermement sur la poignée de la ventouse en appliquant une pression constante, pour ouvrir une petite fente entre l'écran et le châssis.
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Insérez un médiator dans l'espace sous le joint en plastique de l'écran, pas dans l'écran lui-même.
In addition to safety goggles, I would recommend you also wear good gloves to avoid getting cut with the glass as you try to pry it open.
The top about applying more heat and gently rocking the screen up and down to weaken the adhesive did the trick for me. Thank you!
There needs to be more clarity on where to shove the opening pick into. There is actually two openings that the pry tool can be forced into: one below the black plastic bezel, and one above the black plastic bezel. When I heated my screen with a warming pad and pulled up the suction cup, it actually pried apart above the black plastic bezel which removed the touch screen from the display panel. With this being the first newer iPhone I'd opened since the 3GS, I didn't realize that I was opening the wrong opening as the directions only mentioned one opening and did not warn of this. I was pretty disappointed in the lack of mentioning this, as I was taking my time and following it to the tee. As a result, it destroyed my original iPhone screen.
DO NOT separate the glass from the plastic bumper or rim around it. As someone else noted, these instructions don't clarify that the pick has to be inserted between the plastic rim and the metal body of the phone. When pulling upwards with the suction cup, it is likely that the glass will lift slightly off the plastic surround before the plastic will lift out of the metal body. I had success sliding a card or pick back and forth along the bottom edge of the plastic rim while pulling on the suction cup. Eventually there was a space large enough for the pick to go under the plastic rim.
Thank you for pointing this out! I've updated the step to reflect this.
The suction cup doesn't work at all... The minimum force I apply to lift it up, it comes off completely. This is very frustrating!!!
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Wouldn’t it be better to put this part BEFORE the step where you have to pry open the phone?
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Ré-insérez votre médiator dans le bord inférieur de l'iPhone, et faites-le glisser jusqu'au côté droit pour continuer à séparer l'adhésif.
If you have flat feeler gauges (for adjusting engine valve tappet clearance, ignition points … old school) the .003” thick gauge goes right in. Work your way up in thickness until you can get the pic or supplied pry tool in. Don’t insert metal feeler gauge in too far, just enough to hold crack open. I didn’t need to use the suction cup. I used a hot/cold gel pack heated in microwave to heat edges to soften glue a bit. Made sure it wasn’t so hot I couldn’t stand it on my skin.
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Glissez le médiator sous le coin supérieur de l'écran tout en faisant délicatement jouer l'écran vers le bas, en direction du port Lightning.
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Glissez le médiator sous le côté opposé pour faire céder l'adhésif restant.
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Ouvrez l'iPhone en tournant l'écran depuis le côté gauche, comme s'il s'agissait de la couverture au dos d'un livre.
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Appuyez l'écran contre un objet pour le maintenir à la verticale pendant que vous travaillez sur le téléphone.
My phone came apart in a different way and looks not right the little box at the top of the display as actually bolted to the top of the frame body I think something went really wrong when I opened it.
It opens like a book but be careful not to open it all the way — only as far as shown in the photo. Otherwise it will strain the thin cable that connects the sensor module and then no more FaceID for you (or, as it turns out me). This could have been made more explicit in the instructions.
It opens like a book but be careful not to open it all the way … the small stainless steel tabs that hold the screen around the metal frame, that are on the bend place (right side of the phone)… are tend to bend, you can straighten them back to 90 deg. but the plastic base that they are on? very fragile- watch out not to break the plastic bezel … it may come apart of the glass.
Advice for re-assembly: Before closing up the phone with the seal, check if phone is powering up again and speaker, mic and sensors are still working. If done this check even before installing the board connector bracket in Step 13.
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Dévissez cinq vis Y000 fixant le cache du connecteur de la carte mère, des dimensions suivantes :
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Trois vis de 1,1 mm
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Une vis de 3,1 mm
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Une vis de 3,7 mm
One thing I found helpful for replacing the screws was to use only the 000screwdriver tip, without the handle. This way, the tip isn’t magnetized and the screw doesn’t tend to ‘roll’ off the screwdriver tip (the screw has almost no mass, so the head (largest surface) is pulled around to the side of the screwdriver tip when magnetized).
Rich May 23, 2020
My 3.1mm screw had a stripped head, could not remove it. (Factory defect, this iPhone was never opened)
So I had to give up removing the display assembly, and jumped directly to battery replacement, Step 20.
That was tricky as I had to keep the display at 90º with a risk of breaking display connectors, but hopefully the replacement went well.
I would not recommend to do this but to follow the guide, but, in case someone encounters a similar issue, that could help!
Be careful on reassembly. Keep the screen supported and not moving. I had difficulty getting the screws in and ended up ruining the screen connectivity at the back of the screen where the ribbon cables go in near the center. I was trying to hand hold the screen and it ended up moving around too much.
To keep track of the screws, I copy the photos showing their places, then arrange these photos on document in Pages, print it. Next I apply two sided sticky tape (the roll-on type). So all screws have their corresponding places …
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Retirez le cache.
I tested it, then proceeded to close up the device without the bracket. Do I need to reopen and install? All connections are good?
The bracket helps those many connectors underneath maintain good contact. Probably in the short term nothing bad will happen, but I’d hang onto the bracket and reinstall it when convenient.
Agree with Jeff
cgtyoder -
for me, the replacement battery was completely dead, small panic when the power-on button was pressed, but quickly realised that this was the situation, and now watching the phone take a power cycle.
Before clicking the screen assembly back, I tried to test the iPhone by pushing the start button, but nothing happened. After taking off the bracket, reseating the plugs I tried again - nothing happened! Then I plugged in the charging cable connected with the iMac, and it started immediately. So if the phone does not start using the startup button, it might just be a glitch when reconnecting the battery.
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Faites levier avec la pointe d'une spatule (spudger) ou un ongle propre pour débrancher le connecteur de la batterie de sa prise sur la carte mère.
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Repliez et écartez légèrement le connecteur de la carte mère pour éviter qu'il ne rentre accidentellement en contact avec la prise et alimente le téléphone pendant que vous effectuez la réparation.
cosa può succedere se non si disconnette la scheda logica'?
note: be careful not to crush or puncture your battery at this step!! I gave mine a minor dent, which I hope wont be a problem.. but something to keep in mind for fxlks in the future!
Thanks, already did it)
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Servez-vous de la pointe d'une spatule ou d'un ongle pour déconnecter le connecteur de la nappe du panneau OLED.
Snap ‘em in like little Legos.
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Soulevez le connecteur de la nappe de la vitre tactile avec la pointe d'une spatule pour le débrancher de sa prise.
This was probably the hardest part other than trying to get the screen off with the crappy suction cups. I re-installed the bracket only the find out that the touch screen would not respond to touch. Had to remove the five screws, remove the bracket and reseat the recessed screen connector. Reseating the bracket took another 10+ minutes. I carefully used the angled forceps to grab the cable and align the connector being careful not to damage the cable.
Once you have the connector seated, I would reconnect the battery, power on the phone, and check the touch screen response before re-installing the bracket (step 13).
Yeah, this was probably the trickiest part of the reassembly. The power connector cable kept getting in the way so I moved it carefully but fully out of the way. Then it was a matter of fiddling around with it a bit and being careful not to force it on.
I was positive that I had messed something up, I had powered up the phone to test three different times and everything seemed find except there was no touch at all. On my fourth attempt, I carefully examined everything for dust and debris (blowing gently), and I did notice that a corner of the connector (more like part of the ribbon) was bent slightly, and I straightened it. I don't know if it was the ribbon or some tiny debris, but after reseating a fourth time, it worked.
Very important part of the tutorial. Be careful and patience! In my case the screen and camera didn't respond after assemble, so I tried again to reconnect the connector like tutorial said and it worked well. Now my iPhone feel like a new one 💪🏼
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Soulevez délicatement la nappe jusqu'à ce que l'adhésif cède.
It is part of the face id part so yes. This is the ear piece too so if the ribbon tears there is a chance the ear piece will stop working as well.
Be super careful handling this ribbon particularly. I did a battery install and, when I was done, I had a phone with a new battery and no Face ID. That’s a $300 Apple repair, and no 3rd party shop will touch it. I believe the ribbon lays vertically (i.e., perpendicular to the “floor” of the phone, against the side edge of the battery. During the re-install, I must have forced the ribbon into position after seating the connector, causing fatal flexing of the ribbon. (Don’t know this for sure, but I see another comment saying that this cable is part of Face ID.) Anyway, bottom line: BE CAREFUL REMOVING AND REINSTALLING THIS RIBBON!
My flex cable was more than lightly adhered in place. I needed to use a guitar pic or similar to help encourage adhesive to separate. I wouldn’t pull too hard like shown in pictures unless you had just the right grip on the ribbon cable so as to avoid damaging flex cable. See note above (5/31/20)
Bizarre — it turns out my whole front panel sensor assembly came entire off of the front screen and is stuck to the logic board.
I also found the glue quite recluctant to release so I applied a second or two of heat using the wife's hair dryer which softened it and the cable lifted much easier then. Be careful not to apply too much heat though which could then impact other internal components.
Cho ít cồn 90° vào để mềm keo dễ tháo
my iphone x doesn't have a front panel sensor? in fact, it looks completely different than the picture???
@kennethmcleod, most likely you've separated the screen frame from the screen itself. We see this most commonly when people neglect to remove the pentalobe screws next to the charging port. Usually the cure is to take out those screws, then repeat the screen removal process on the frame that's still attached to the phone.
You don't need to disconnect the front sensor to change the screen. Just leave it connected and remove from the screen side.
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Retirez l'ensemble écran iPhone X.
I tried this and broke the cable can it still repair
CAUTION:
Removing the Taptic Engine or Speaker in next step is optional and the guide continues as this was per se needed.
Unnecessary work and also If you remove the speaker you lose the adhesive gasket and this is not included in the scope of delivery of the "Battery replacement" offering.
So do not remove and avoid losing waterproofing.
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Retirez les sept vis qui fixent le cache sur le Taptic Engine et le haut-parleur :
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Deux vis Y000 de 1,9 mm
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Une vis Y000 de 1,2 mm
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Une vis Y000 de 1,6 mm
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Une vis cruciforme de 2,4 mm
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Une vis cruciforme de 1,7 mm
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Une vis cruciforme de 1,5 mm
For battery replacement:
It is not necessary to remove Taptic Engine and speaker to replace a battery. Go straight to the step #33
Additional video: https://youtu.be/2GfBOlJEW10
I wish I seen this before I did all that! Thank you for that information. Next time I do something like this. I'm gonna pay more attention to the comments.
Removing the Taptic Engine and speaker greatly improves your chances of getting the battery adhesive strips out intact. If those break, you’ll have a much tougher time.
Boy, I tried to skip removing these items but was unable to get the glue strips out with them in place, not much to grab and tabs were kind of stuck to a seam in the battery, and hard to tell the difference between the seam and the strip tabs. For me I had to remove these items to get this done.
I stopped removing things after getting the display side off. There were 3 screws stripped on the speaker cover which wouldn't come out so I punted. Just pried the battery out with a smudger tool and some patience, starting at the top and working towards the bottom. New battery is in and working fine.
Thanks for not removing the following steps. this made me break the connector for the bottom speakers >:(
The screws color and quantities in list don’t match the schematic ! I wish i had a magnetic screw mat before starting, because not only i removed the Taptic Engine and speaker unnecessarily, but i also lost a screw ?
Does anyone know the purpose of this bracket "with grounding pads"? What would be the possible side effects if it was damaged or not connected properly during reassembly?
Sure would like to know WHY the warning "Be careful not to touch the three rows of grounding pads..." What would or could happen if I did touch them??
Removing the battery strips is a major PITA, just skip this step and everything onwards, remove the one strip on the top part of the battery (according to step 33) and for the bottom part of the battery, pry it off with a plastic spudger.
Yes, this is not the elegant solution, but the quickest and easiest one. This method is better, as you don't want to keep the old battery anyway, so why bother. (You must not puncture the battery though! But as long as you're only working with a plastic tool and are careful, nothing can happen from my experience.)
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Dévissez la vis Y000 de 2,1 mm qui fixe le cache du connecteur du haut-parleur.
L'unique vis non?
Effectivement ;-) Merci pour les bons yeux et la remarque !
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Avec la pointe de la spatule, soulevez et débranchez le connecteur du haut-parleur.
As mentioned in a comment by timblake2112 (see step 29), this step is not necessary and can be skipped skipped. I would advise you to do so, as removing your speaker is guaranteed to ruin your gasket and rubber seal. This will result in loss of water resistancy of your iPhone and could potentially harm the sound quality of your speaker.
Try removing the Taptic Engine without removing the speaker. It might still be possible removing the battery adhesive strips and your speaker will stay in its original condition.
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Saisissez le haut-parleur par les bords latéraux et faites-le osciller d'un côté à l'autre pour faire céder l'adhésif qui le fixe au bord inférieur de l'iPhone.
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Écartez le haut-parleur du bord inférieur de l'iPhone jusqu'à ce que le joint adhésif se décolle.
As mentioned in a comment by timblake2112 (see step 29), this step is not necessary and can be skipped skipped. I would advise you to do so, as removing your speaker is guaranteed to ruin your gasket and rubber seal. This will result in loss of water resistancy of your iPhone and could potentially harm the sound quality of your speaker.
Try removing the Taptic Engine without removing the speaker. It might still be possible removing the battery adhesive strips and your speaker will stay in its original condition.
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Retirez le haut-parleur.
You don’t need to remove the speaker and ruin its gasket. You can wiggle and slide the taptic engine out without removing the speaker. I’ve done this twice on rear shell replacement jobs.
Maybe I'm a bit daft, but where's the instruction just how to line up the speaker gasket when replacing? I only have one so I'd like to avoid wrecking it. And I completely cleaned off the old one in order to do a good job of things. Why no simple instruction from part supply link?
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Chaque bande adhésive se finit par une languette d'extraction noire. Celle-ci est légèrement collée sur le côté de la batterie.
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Décollez la première languette adhésive de la partie inférieure de la batterie.
hole breaks instantly on pulling. adhesive tab does not release from side of battery
just pry it off, why bother
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Pour augmenter vos chances de succès :
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N'appuyez pas sur la batterie. Tenez fermement votre iPhone par les côtés.
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Veillez à ce que les bandes restent le plus horizontales possible et ne fassent pas de plis quand vous tirez dessus.
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Tirez très lentement pour donner aux bandes le temps de s'étirer et de se décoller. Il vous faut environ 15 à 30 secondes pour chaque bande.
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Tirez de façon à ce que la bande ne reste pas accrochée le long du bord inférieur de la batterie.
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Si vous déchirez une bande sous la batterie et n'arrivez pas à l'enlever, continuez avec les autre bandes, puis référez-vous aux instructions spécifiques plus bas.
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Saisissez la languette adhésive à gauche ou à droite de la batterie, puis tirez dessus, depuis la batterie vers le bas de l'iPhone.
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Tirez régulièrement, en exerçant une tension constante sur la bande jusqu'à ce qu'elle glisse hors de son emplacement entre la batterie et la coque arrière.
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Décollez et soulevez la languette d'extraction de la dernière bande adhésive, qui se trouve en haut de la cellule de batterie supérieure.
surtout ne pas passer avec la spatule par le bas, vous risqueriez d arracher la nappe du volume et du nfc,
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Tirez et ôtez la dernière bande adhésive.
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Si vous avez réussi à retirer les quatre bandes adhésives, sautez l'étape suivante.
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Attendez une minute que la solution alcoolisée ramollisse la bande adhésive. Utilisez le bout plat d'une spatule antistatique pour faire doucement levier sur la batterie.
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Pour des méthodes alternatives pour décoller la batterie, continuez à l'étape suivante ci-dessous.
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Si une des bandes adhésives s'est déchirée et que la batterie reste coincée dans la coque arrière, préparez un iOpener ou servez-vous d'un sèche-cheveux pour faire chauffer la coque arrière derrière la batterie.
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Retournez l'iPhone et faites glisser une ficelle solide (du fil dentaire ou une fine corde de guitare par exemple) sous la batterie.
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Enroulez un chiffon autour des bouts de la corde (ou portez des gants) pour protéger vos doigts.
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Tirez la ficelle d'un côté puis de l'autre, dans un mouvement de scie, et ce tout le long de la batterie pour faire céder l'adhésif. Cela risque de prendre du temps, car l'adhésif cède lentement. Soyez patient et vous en viendrez à bout. Ne déformez ni endommagez la batterie.
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Tenez la batterie par le bas et retirez-la de l'iPhone.
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Posez la batterie, débranchez-la et continuez à remonter votre appareil.
When reinstalling the battery, the Taptic Engine does serve as a useful way to orient the battery, but it should also be noted that if you push right up against that as you install the battery (as I did) and don’t pay any attention to power connector (shown in step 14), there is a risk that the connector from the battery will not line exactly with the connector port on the board. Mine was only off a mm so I had to get a little creative to try to get it to stretch to reach and connect to the port on the board. Just keep that in mind as you place the battery (with adhesive) down.
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Comparez votre nouvelle pièce de rechange à la pièce d'origine, vous devrez peut-être transférer les composants restants ou enlever les films adhésif au dos de la nouvelle pièce avant de l'installer.
Pour réassembler votre appareil, suivez les étapes ci-dessus dans l'ordre inverse.
Apportez vos déchets électroniques à un point de collecte certifié.
La réparation iPhone X ne s'est pas déroulée comme prévu ? Consultez notre forum de réponses pour obtenir de l'aide au diagnostic. Notre communauté iFixit sera à même de pouvoir vous conseiller sur ce changement d'écran iPhone X si vous avez des questions ou des doutes.
Comparez votre nouvelle pièce de rechange à la pièce d'origine, vous devrez peut-être transférer les composants restants ou enlever les films adhésif au dos de la nouvelle pièce avant de l'installer.
Pour réassembler votre appareil, suivez les étapes ci-dessus dans l'ordre inverse.
Apportez vos déchets électroniques à un point de collecte certifié.
La réparation iPhone X ne s'est pas déroulée comme prévu ? Consultez notre forum de réponses pour obtenir de l'aide au diagnostic. Notre communauté iFixit sera à même de pouvoir vous conseiller sur ce changement d'écran iPhone X si vous avez des questions ou des doutes.
Annulation : je n'ai pas terminé ce tutoriel.
392 autres ont terminé cette réparation.
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51 commentaires
In the store it says the iSlack is only for iPhone 5 and 6. In this review the iSlack is used (without tray). Does that mean it can be used on the iPhone X as well?
@rvdm The little bracket in the middle of the iSclack is sized for iPhone 5, but that bracket is optional and very easy to detach. At that point you have a really great general-purpose suction tool that works for all kinds of devices (even bigger ones like tablets). I’ll see about updating the description on the store page to reflect that fact. ;)
Have you all ever had a problem of the phone staying stuck on a percentage and takes so long to charge plz let me know because I just got my iPhone X and it take so long to charge and I got it brand new from AT&T
bonne continuation
Esta solucionado el tema del Chip Texas instrument para baterias no reemplazadas en Apple, gracias.
¿A qué te refieres con eso?
Tomas -
C’è un errore di traduzione al passo 33 BATTERIA , iphone X diventa iphone 8.
Marco
Ciao Marco! Hai occhi di lince! Grazie per il commento. Ho corretto la traduzione. Commenti di questo tipo sono sempre benvenuti. Hai anche la possibilità di adattare direttamente la traduzione, cliccando sull’icona “Traduci”. Saluti, Claire
Note that my replacement battery was completely dead when I installed it, so when I tested it, I thought perhaps something wasn’t hooked up right. After removing the bracket for the connectors and reattaching the battery connector I tried again. Since that failed, I plugged the phone in. I got a “no charge” battery icon. After a few minutes I removed the phone from the charger. The phone stayed on with the “plug in the phone” icon, so I knew everything was put back together correctly.
Critical Note! When installing the new battery make sure the connector lines up. The instructions mention having the speaker and taptic engine in place so I focused on squaring up with those. This was a mistake! Now my connector is 2mm too low and won’t line up. Not sure how I will fix this yet but hopefully I won't need to remove everything again.
Aparecerá el porcentaje de la batería en el apartado de “salud”?
removing the components that are below the battery seems rather unnecessary to me, you could remove the battery without taking those out
I had an issue with a swollen battery on a iphone X, the battery was pushing the display assembly and the phone couldn’t close properly. Replaced with new battery and all went fine. Great guide as always
This battery already comes with battery health indicator or need to reprogram the battery ?
It would be nice if this addressed the waterproof adhesive, mentioned in Step 6. Doesn’t pulling the phone apart make it no longer watertight?
Instructions for replacing the adhesive seals are linked in the guide (Step 19). I wouldn’t count on your phone being waterproof after a repair, but a phone from 2017-2018 likely won’t be particularly water-resistant anymore, anyway. Those seals tend to degrade over time.
Hi, I bought the battery from you and installed it exactly like your steps.
But after two days of use, a message appears to me that this battery is not original and its percentage cannot be read !!!
What to do now ???
When changing the battery to a third party one, are there any notifications that appear such as “not a genuine battery” and does reprogramming the battery help prevent this.
It is perfectly possible to do the replacement without removing anything other than the bracket and the battery connector.
This reduces the number of steps to about 10 and takes about 15 minutes.
I don’t want to sound like “that guy,” but the cost of a battery replacement is only $69 at an Apple Store. This DIY solution, which can go t!ts up anywhere along the 43 steps, requires the purchase of parts that cost almost as much as just letting Apple do it. I love fixing/replacing/upgrading my hardware as much as the next guy, but this seems like a scenario where the majority of people would be better off visiting an Apple Store.
Except that authorized stores won’t replace a swollen battery, and neither will Apple. Otherwise yes, if the few hours extra and a few 10s of dollars is the additional price for a turnkey solution, most folks are better off having the work done for them.
Was suffering from a hugely swollen battery so it made removing the adhesive pretty difficult (and I was being super careful since the battery had swollen so much). The “stretch and pull” with the adhesive was a no-go and I was hesitant to heat the phone. I ended up slowly pulling up on the battery at the top and gently working the adhesive away. It took some time, but worked out.
Great guide, as usual!
Commentary on swelled batteries: don’t tell Apple, they will mark your iPhone SerialNumber in their database as not repairable and you will never be able to get a battery replacement in the future (per Apple phone support, as we tried to get their swollen battery replaced by appointment). We are not happy campers, now I need to use up valuable time replacing the battery. At least replacing the battery is an option with the help of iFixit. (oh, and they won’t put in a new battery if I remove the old one either— although once the old one is removed the hardest part of the work is done)
Hello,
I have an iPhone X Model number MQAF2LZ/A bought in Perú and once I started removing the display I noticed it doesn’t open like in the pictures or video here. There is a connector behind the ear piece that connects to the main board and I can’t open it. I see if I force it I will break this connector. Have somebody worked with this model? and recommend where to buy a replacement display? The one I bought is for model number MQAF2LL/A (USA). (the ribbon cables look different)
Today I show you how to replace the battery of the Iphone X. We need one screwdriver, one suction cup, 1 iopener, 1 pair of tweezers, 1 plastic pry tool, and 1 spudger. Remember to turn off the power. The replacement can cause the loss of water resistance. To replace the battery for iphone X, do the following steps. Step 1, use the screwdrive to remove the screws at the bottom. Use Iopener to soften the adhesive. Clip the suction cup onto the screen and use a pry tool to pry out the screen. Lift up the screen 90 degrees on the right. Take off the small screws holding the battery cable and the motherboard. Next, use the tweezers to lift up the metal bracket. Use a spudger to pry away the battery connector and 3 display connectors. Use tweezers to remove the battery stripe. Remove the old battery. Reverse the above steps to install the new battery.
This takes me like 2 mins no tools required and I reused the adhesives also so less waste . I dont pull anything or use tools bar a tri star….. Should be updated . Soak in alcohol slightly leave for 2 mins remove battery , dry and replace using old adhesive (which is perfect) no cleaning ….Digithaiz
Jeez I dont mind even making you a guide for this as its mostly sit and wait for all of the 5 mins max this takes!
Porcentaje de la Condición de la batería funcionará bien?
Misma pregunta.
Tomas -
Hallo,
ich habe mein iphone x display und batterie ausgetauscht, allerdings bekomme ich die fehlermeldung
Apple erfasst die Hardwarekennungen Ihres iPhones, um unsere Dienste zu identifizieren und zu aktivieren.
İch habe mein iphone x damals in der türkei gekauft und leider komme ich nach weiter woran kann das liegen ?
Excellent guide! Took about1,5 - 2 hours too including trying to remove all of that black sticky stuff! :) Should have bought some isopropanol... Aligning and fixing the new sealing was a bit tricky! Really had to think for a while which layer of plastic to remove first...
No problem removing the adhesive under the battery which never has worked on older iphones! pehww.... :)
Worked great. Only putting the display adhesive on was difficult. I am thinking about fixing the broken display now, because it maked so much fun!
I don't know if it's common knowledge, but I just flashed on what the first sign of my battery expanding was. I used an Otterbox Defender case on my iPhone X. 3-6 months before the battery made its expansion obvious, the volume buttons started not working well. I thought it was the Otterbox. But now that I've replaced the battery the volume buttons are working fine. Somehow the battery was distorting the physical interface between the phone buttons and the case buttons. By the time I noticed the battery inflating, it had pushed up the display screen away from its frame. Apparently the battery was getting rather dangerous for possible setting itself ablaze.
0% Remaining cómo solucionar ??
Thanks so much - this is exactly what I needed :)
There are 6.81mm long screws!
Daniel - Réponse
One of the pentalobe screws is stripped :( - suggestions for how to get it out?
cgtyoder - Réponse
same situation here
kaunomarcius - Réponse
Same issue for me too, how do I get the stripped screw out?
patronics - Réponse
Update: I was able to get the “stripped” screw out using another Pentalobe-2 screwdriver bit from another company. It seems it wasn’t the screw, but the screw driver that was actually stripped. Hence why the other screwdriver kit I got came with 3 of this bit, I suppose.
patronics - Réponse
I ended up going to a jewelry store, and they drilled down into the screw, with of course an incredibly tiny bit. That allowed me to insert the P2 driver, and I was able to unscrew it at that point. Good luck!
cgtyoder - Réponse
Same issue with the stripping. The tip of the iFixit P2 head in my $70 kit just ground off on the first screw and that was that. Not much you can do.
Kyle Harris - Réponse
yes correct the same happened to me, the screws were perfect shaped never been open and as soon as i used the P2 it stripped the screws, seems like the P2 is slightly smaller but Dremel kit with a very small drill bits and precise knife tool is the way to go.
Dulce Vidal - Réponse
This step in automatically followed through, without any thought. Why remove these screws? Can anybody explain? The Screen is detachable all the same, with them well screwed in…
Uri - Réponse
These screws attach to a plate that’s part of the screen half of the phone. If you succeed in detaching the screen without removing those, it would seem reasonable that you will have damaged that plate or its ability to keep the two halves together.
Dan Long -
@Dan Long is right
Uri -
Clean out the pentalobe screw heads first so the tool goes all the way in. A small sewing needle works well to loosen any build up and then press some putty/chewing gum into the screw head and pull away quickly for a final clean out.
William Olstad - Réponse
The this kit should include screws because you’re going to strip them. Can’t even get past step one. Did anybody figure this out
justin - Réponse
Never opened my phone ever, when I went to look at the first step.. I noticed one of my screws was stripped. I thought it was impossible, but I removed the non stripped one, then once I got to the stripped one.. I learned my assumptions were correct. I bought this one straight from the apple site years ago ahaha Any tips to remove the stripped screw?
Clarence Williams - Réponse
William Olstad's tip about cleaning the screws with a needle and a bit of poster putty worked well for me. There was a lot of crud in there! The opening is shallow, so it's easy to see how the screwdriver wouldn't catch with even a bit of grit in the way, No problem getting the pentalobe screws out with the ifixit screwdriver.
punkinann - Réponse
If all else fails, very carefully cut a slot across the head of the screw with a Dremel tool using a diamond bit that dentist will gladly give you - I ask my dentist for used bits; and chuck them in a drill bit chuck designed for Dremel. The slot allows you to use a tiny, straight blade screwdriver. You can reuse the screw or replace it with a new pentalobe screw.
Dan Smith - Réponse