Introduction
Si la batterie de votre iPod Nano 5e génération montre des signes de fatigue, ce guide vous permettra de lui redonner de l'énergie.
Ce dont vous avez besoin
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Insérez un outil d'ouverture pour iPod entre la coque extérieure et le cache supérieur près de l'écran.
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Soulevez l'outil d'ouverture pour iPod et retirez délicatement le panneau supérieur de l'appareil.
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Insérez un outil d'ouverture pour iPod entre la coque extérieure et la plaque de métal du bouton Arrêt près du haut de l'écran.
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Tout en appuyant légèrement sur l'outil d'ouverture , retirez la plaque du bouton Arrêt de l'iPod.
My ribbon broke.
I see that on the pictures further down, you removed the covering plate, which I would suggest to do, as it'll put less weight on the ribbon.
Luckily, we can find spare ones. In fact it doesn't sell alone, it's with the earphones jack.
could you elaborate more as to how did you remedy the broken ribbon?
is the broken ribbon fixable?
is the broken ribbon fixable?
I am new to this my ribbon broke when I was taking out the battery doesn't the new battery ribbon connect to the one connected to the end switch, by that I mean can I connect the new battery ribbon to the end switch ribbon?,where it broke?
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Insérez un outil d'ouverture pour iPod entre l'écran et le panneau en verre en haut de l'appareil.
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Faites pivoter l'outil d'ouverture vers l'arrière de l'appareil, en soulevant légèrement le haut du verre hors de la coque extérieure.
At this point, I find it helps to separate the lock switch from the top metal casting. You then have just the switch dangling on the fragile ribbon cable. Much less likely to snag or break the ribbon. Just loosen (Don't remove completely) the two Phillips screws. The heavy clunky casting bit can be removed.
You can remove this lens with virtually zero risk to the LCD underneath:
Get a couple guitar picks or spudgers ready, and another old spudger. Using a hot glue gun, glue the old spudger into the very middle of the lens. Let the glue cool completely.
Using a heat gun pointing up from the bottom, heat the 3 edges of the shell around the top and sides of the lens. Avoid getting heat on the lens or hot glue as it will soften.
Using the spudger as a handle, pull up on the lens to get the top edge started and get your guitar picks/spudgers under the sides at the top of the lens.
Complete removal as above.
Using a spudger/guitar pick, start to peel an edge of the hot glue loose to remove old spudger from lens; then clean any residue with alcohol.
“couple of” guitar picks
After destroying one iPod, I learned from my mistakes. Heating it with a hair dryer to loosen the adhesive helped a lot. You need to get the tool between the glass and the lcd display; be very careful not to put pressure on the display!
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Tout en soulevant l'écran avec un outil d'ouverture pour iPod, insérez un deuxième outil d'ouverture entre la coque extérieure et le bord supérieur gauche du panneau de verre.
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Retirez le premier outil d'ouverture entre le verre et l'écran LCD en haut de l'appareil.
The iPod I repared had a cracked screen. Caution here because it doesn't pop out that easily. I had to apply some force on the plastic opening tool while using another tool to take out the shards (who are glued to the side).
90% guaranteed you will destroy the LCD in this step. You just dont know how much for to use and if you stress the LCD too much, even with a plastic tool it will be damaged.That’s why ifixit sells those too. My advice is to first completely follow this guide, and if successful, and only then , start ordering parts.
Since the display is probably 99 percent broken, I decided to use a different method. I heat the ipod on my 3-printer heating bed to around 70 degrees Celsius, then I take a suction cup and pull on the display glass. When the glue is warm enough, the glass rises and you can carefully detach the glass with an opening pick. the display remains completely intact greeting Andre
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Soulevez le verre par le côté le plus proche du haut de l'iPod et retirez le panneau de verre du Nano.
It might be a good idea to remove all the adhesive from the screen before trying to slide the internals out. I had a nightmare trying to get mine out, ended up cutting my thumb and finger from holding onto the edges of the screen too tight trying to wiggle it out. And then to top it off, I broke the hold switch ribbon cable too. I don’t know how much the screen glue vs the battery glue was responsible for making it difficult to remove. Also when sliding it out, be careful the lip on the lower edge of the button hole doesn’t snag on the thin steel frame around the screen.
Is it really needed to remove the glas? Can‘t you just slide out the logic board when glas remains?
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Utilisez un pistolet à air chaud pour ramollir l'adhésif sous le cache en plastique au bas de l'iPod.
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Utilisez un outil d'ouverture en plastique pour faire levier sur le cache et le retirer de la coque de l'iPod.
You MUST remove the bottom plate BEFORE forcing of the wheel or you WILL tare it apart as there is a lug on the bottom plate that holds the wheel in place ( wish I had known this before I damaged mine)
also do not lose the very small spring that is under the wheel (I DID )
+1. There is a tiny piece of plastic containing a little spring just under the wheel. Remove thoses parts before extracting the main board or you will probably loose them.
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Dévissez trois vis du bas de l'iPod :
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Deux vis cruciformes coudées de 4,4 mm
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Une vis cruciforme de 5,4 mm
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Utilisez un outil d'ouverture en plastique pour faire levier sur le support en métal et le retirer du fond de l'iPod.
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Placez un médiator entre la molette cliquable et le boîtier du Nano et retirez le spudger en métal.
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Faites levier sur les bords de la molette cliquable avec le méidator jusqu'à ce que la molette cliquable sorte de la coque.
Use extreme care when inserting the metal plunger to lift up the click wheel. I ended up damaging one of the sensor pads and then needed to order a new click wheel circuit. Not very expensive to replace but I had not intended to replace this item and so my finished repair was delayed.
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Soulevez la molette cliquable hors de votre champ de travail d'une main et utilisez un outil d'ouverture en plastique pour retirer le connecteur de la nappe de la molette de sa prise sur la carte mère.
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Retirez la molette cliquable.
In the second photo where you can see under the click wheel, just above the square black piece with the apple on it is a black rectangle with a hole in the center. There will be a spring in the hole. Remove the spring and the black piece it is in and set aside or they will fall out and get lost.
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Utilisez un pistolet à air chaud pour ramollir l'adhésif sous le cache de la caméra/du microphone.
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Décollez le cache de la caméra/du microphone de la coque avec un spudger en métal et enlevez-le.
Use a heatgun/hairdryer for a very long time and use a cutter knife and pry continuously only from the right bottom corner (near the camera lens). If you don't get it open use the heatgun once more.
Alternatively use a fabric bag filled with chick peas, put it in a microwave for 4 mn at power 600w and leave it to rest on the iPod 10 / 15 mn. It does the same job. I also use a fresh stanley knife blade (mind your fingers) the blade is very slim and is therefore easier to wedge between the casing and the cover.
You can remove this lens with zero damage to case or lens:
Using a hot glue gun, apply a bead of glue across the entire lens but not on the body of the iPod. Move the nozzle back and forth in the glue for about 20 seconds; this keeps the glue hot and heats up the Apple adhesive on the other side.
Quickly jam an old spudger into the hot glue and hold it until the glue starts to harden; this will happen quickly. Gripping the spudger and digging into the glue over the spudger with the fingernail of your forefinger, pull straight up evenly but firmly. The lens will release pretty easily if you time it right; otherwise it will pop if it has gotten cold.
I’ve done a dozen of these this way successfully.
Thanks Paul! I will add this into the step.
This works great, as long as you time it right. I found putting the tip of the glue gun flat against the lens is useful, and a few seconds after the glue stops sticking to your finger is a good time to do it.
Aydan -
just use a needle and pull it from the little hole
have to be careful because after removing the click wheel, when you turn it upside down, the are pieces that fall down. I lost one that fall in my carpet
I was able to remove it using a pin in the small hole. Once it is out there may be pieces that want to fall off; a round ring and the white retainer piece.
Same here. With some pliers I bent the pointy tip of a push-pin to make a 120 degree angle and used that to lift up the plate using the microphone hole after I heated up the plate. Like a mini crowbar. It came off in 30 seconds including the white indent attached to it.
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Depuis le haut de l'iPod, insérez un spudger métallique entre la coque extérieure et la batterie pour décoller l'adhésif qui maintient la batterie en place.
In case anyone else didn't realize this, you need to push your spudger fairly deep into the iPod to completely seperate the glue from the battery. I just stuck mine in maybe half an inch, then spent 30 minutes struggling to move the logic board. After removing all of the glue, it slid out with relative ease.
I didn’t have a spudger so I used a metal nail file with a rounded end. Heated the back of the iPod with a hair dryer for about a minute first to soften the adhesive and it all worked fairly smoothly. Be gentle with the lcd display.
Keep in mind the only glue holding the logic board to the metal case is a small rectangle of adhesive. In the picture, the author is just scraping away at the glue. You don’t need to insert your spudger any lower than half an inch as there isn’t any other adhesive holding the logic board to the metal case . Once the glue has been scraped away, then the board should slide out easily. If it doesn’t slide out, then the adhesive is still there.
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Insérez une punaise dans le trou au coin du dispositif de retenue et retirez-le du boîtier.
I think this step should be step 16. Otherwise you risk to drop the retainer.
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Avec une force maîtrisée mais régulière, appuyez sur le haut de l'écran LCD pour faire glisser l'ensemble carte mère hors du bas de l'iPod.
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Une fois que le haut de l'écran LCD est séparé du bord inférieur de la coque extérieure, retirez l'ensemble carte mère du reste de l'iPod.
I accidentally snapped the little ribbon that held the top of the device. Is it fixable?
Perhaps this one? iPod Nano 4th/5th Generation Hold/Lock Switch Ribbon Cable Repair
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Avec vos doigts, soulevez avec précaution la batterie du dos de l'écran LCD, en commençant par le haut de l'écran.
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Commencez à travailler par la partie droite du câble en nappe. Chauffez le plot de soudure le plus à droite tout en soulevant doucement le câble en nappe par le dessous pour le libérer de la carte.
Petite astuce, si votre but est de changer la batterie : ne vous embêter pas, couper la nappe de batterie afin d’éviter tout éventuel court-circuit.
“A little tip, if your goal is to change the battery: do not bother, cut the battery cover to avoid any short circuit” Pierre MARZIN
Another tip, if you have ruined 5 iPods so far without getting past this stage then try simply taping the new battery to the case and connecting its ends to an old cut off broad Apple USB [power pins] (someone smart can say which ones these are)
actually no problem to solder a new battery, the biggest problem is to get a new, reasonable one. Most of them are old batteries that are already deeply discharged. Please make sure that the battery is still charged over 3.7 V when it reaches you. it is essential to measure the voltage first, otherwise all the work is in vain. I got a really good battery from A ... zon, but I don't want to advertise here either. much luck
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Répétez l'opération pour les deux soudures restantes, en travaillant de la droite vers la gauche.
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Une fois les trois connexions dessoudées, écartez la batterie de la carte logique.
Hi, are the steps safe to perform for battery replacement when the battery is swollen?
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Pour remonter votre appareil, suivez ces instructions dans l'ordre inverse.
Pour remonter votre appareil, suivez ces instructions dans l'ordre inverse.
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31 commentaires
This it bs. I need to buy new device now. Nothing comes off that easy. My screen shattered when I was trying to pull it up. If you are not a pro, don't do it.
Obviously you weren’t careful enough.
You are supposed to push down from the top of the screen, not up. I managed to get mine out but I ripped the hold ribbon in the process. Luckily I have another one for spares. Good luck next time
I'm sure this can be done, but the tools included in the Ifixit kit are not up to the task. Spent about 45 minutes with the flimsy blue tools and distorted the LCD trying to remove the glass. Then took a heat gun and used the black nylon tool (which I suppose is the replacement for the metal spudger) in the kit. Had the glass out in a single minute. There is no tool in the kit long enough to dislodge the click wheel. I got out my dental tools and finished the disassembly. It is cheaper at this point to just buy another than replace the broken parts. It is a poor carpenter that blames his tools, but you can't cut down a tree with a fish. Use your own tools
I managed to do all the steps, the problem is that my battery is swollen... big drama.. so anyone has any advice?, i just want to unswollen it so that i can slide the logic board down..:(
My best suggestion is to puncturse the battery. Its a risk but ive done it before if the battery is dead and once you puncture it you can easily take it out
Roughly around step twenty I found tiny black plastic tab having hole through on my desk, little fella felt out sometime during disassembly and I never found out where it belongs. Nevertheless iPod seems to work well. Funny fact: I also teared away the hold switch and had to replace the whole ribbon with jack connector, and attach speaker to it with new wires. This Nano was the most annoying repair job I ever did.:-)
Do you have a tear down of the ribbon wire replacement?
I found this fixit to try and fix the wire but silver conductive paint isn't cheap and I don't want to spark something manually fixing the wire so I was going to replace the whole part, cant find a how-to, was going to just wing it..
iPod Nano 4th/5th Generation Hold/Lock Switch Ribbon Cable Repair
Mari -
i didn't have a heat gun so i used my wife's hair dryer on low temperature for 1 minute most to detach the screen cover and for 2 minutes to detach the lens cover. i couldn't pop the retainer out properly from the lens/mic so i kinda destroyed it during the process. still, everything is working jsut fine. thnx for this man, saved me US$70.00 from replacing it in a store.
i don't recommend using metal spudger to wipe off the glue behind the battery. I scratched the battery for accident and saw sparks twice which made me give it up and just jump to the next step. the glue was spread in a squared shape about 1,5cm from the top and 1,5 cm to the sides. so the spudger should be inserted no further than 2cm from the top of the case.
Is there anyone who can replace a battery for an Ipod Nano 5th Gen.? It’s much too complicated for me to do.
yes. duckduckgo it, and you will find this
https://www.ipodbatterydepot.com/shoppin...
i haven’t used them, but am considering it
my model no is a1320
question: what is the amperage of the original battery
question: what is the amperage of the replacement battery
fact: the original battery is worthless. i need something with ten times the amperage. what are my options
I ruined the first iPod. Pushing up on the glass I put too much pressure on the lcd display and ruined it. Was in too much of a hurry and not patient enough. I learned from my mistakes, though, and did much better the second time around. I took my time. Thought the project through, had my tools and workspace ready, and only began when when I could work uninterrupted. Soldering the new battery was by far the hardest part. Watched a good YouTube video and finally made it work. Thanks for posting these manuals so that we can repair things ourselves. I fixed it!
I have a 5th gen iPod Nano. I got it almost a decade ago, or a little over a decade ago. A couple of years ago, around 2016, I found my iPod Nano again. I tried to see if it still worked, so I tried to start it up and lo and behold, the Apple logo appears on the screen. It stays there for a few seconds before the screen turns completely black again. I repeated this process a couple of times. This means that the battery is dead and needs replacing. I am, however, not a tech-savvy person, so I won't bother with repairing it myself. I am afraid that even if I do get it repaired, that there will be no memory and all has been for naught. If you, like me, can start the device but its screen goes black entirely, it means you have a dead battery, too. If you can actually use it, I suggest leaving it alone, even if it means the battery life is very short.
ian h -
this is a professional joke!
Hello is there any way I can take it to you to get it fix.
For anyone trying this I found a way to keep the back casing scratch free when removing camera cover. After removing the front wheel you can see the little white pin under the camera cover (the one iFixit takes out after the camera cover was removed), if you press on it it pushes the camera cover out (you still need to heat the cover with a heat gun/hair dryer) with little to no effort. Just insert the tip of a cutting blade or something very thin and strong between it and the case and push towards the back of the casing and the camera cover will pop out. Hope this helps
Everything went pretty good until the last push to remove the logic board, just that last little bit of adhesive holding on. let go all of a sudden and you know what happened. The hold ribbon broke. any options now?
je ne pensais pas que c’était aussi difficile, avant de me lancer . je pense que je vais réfléchir encore loooool
Et on s'étonne de les trouver à des prix ridicules sur LeBonCoin... Forcément, vu la chiasse que c'est de remplacer cette foutue batterie ! Tout ça au nom de la miniaturisation à la Apple...
J'en ai acheté 5 jusqu'à présent, et étonnamment, c'est le plus esthétiquement rayé qui tient encore le mieux... Plus de 20 heures mesurées ! J'en ai un autre qui tient encore 9, mais les 3 autres sont cuits... Un tient 30 secondes, et les 2 derniers se coupent dès qu'on les débranche... C'est le cas de nombreux modèles sur le marché de l'occasion, tous vendus comme fonctionnant sur secteur... Tu m'étonnes !
S'il était simple de changer la batterie, à 20 euros l'unité, tout le monde le ferait...
J'en viens à regretter d'avoir choisi cette génération à collectionner, plutôt qu'une plus ancienne plus facile à remettre en état...
I cracked the LCD while pushing the iPod out of its casing, cause I put too much pressure onto the frame. But, the battery is swollen, and that definitely made the process harder. At least, everything else still works, but I’m not happy.
Addendum: There’s a small plastic bit in the middle of the board, which this guide neglected to mention. Once you remove it, it leaves an opening in the board wide enough for a spudger, which can be used to push the iPod out. I removed and kept this plastic bit, but doing things differently could’ve saved a perfectly working LCD.
With a little time and patience, it's no problem to bring your nano 5 back to life. The biggest mistake is to rush something or not think about the next step. think first, then act is the best way. and always use the right tool. the plastic spudger is not always the right one. i use very thin razor blades, feeler gauges in various thicknesses, and also old, sharpened credit cards. my way is to cause as little damage as possible ........ best succeed ... andré
got mine dissembled, now waiting on battery delivery. Wondering how things stay together on reassembly now that the glue is stripped / dirty / whatever. Mostly concerned about the glass, at the end. Any need to add glue, or does this thing just stay together with what remnants remain? Thank you to all who left tips at the steps, quite helpful.
