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Introduction

Consultez ce tutoriel pour retirer et remplacer la batterie usée du Google Pixel 3. Si votre batterie est gonflée, prenez les précautions nécessaires.

Avant de démonter votre téléphone, déchargez la batterie en dessous de 25 %. Cela réduira les risques de déclencher un incendie dangereux si jamais vous abîmez accidentellement la batterie pendant la réparation.

  1. Chauffez un iOpener et posez-le en bas du téléphone pendant une minute. Faites attention à ne pas insérer votre médiator trop profondément quand vous ferez levier au-dessus du bouton de marche. Vous endommageriez la nappe du lecteur d'empreintes digitales.
    • Chauffez un iOpener et posez-le en bas du téléphone pendant une minute.

    • Faites attention à ne pas insérer votre médiator trop profondément quand vous ferez levier au-dessus du bouton de marche. Vous endommageriez la nappe du lecteur d'empreintes digitales.

    Older devices may require 2 or more minutes with a very hot iOpener. Also note, the photo shows the opener on the FRONT of the phone. The heat needs to be applied to the back of the device!

    Rick Johnson - Réponse

    I just realized that I was trying to pry apart the front of my Pixel 3… and have separated the class from the display. ??‍♂️ Even though the rest of the directions show the back, it would be nice for the first picture to also show the back, just to be safe.

    JR Raith -

    Agreed, I’ve done exactly the same and completely broken my display. I probably should’ve paid more attention to the initial steps before diving in but the step could do with a new picture for sure.

    Daniel Fryer -

    Thanks for the comments! I’ll add a note in the step warning people to make sure to pry the back cover, not the screen.

    Arthur Shi -

    I prefer my favorite opening method with something like this. Dental floss. So thin it can slide in the gap. A little sawing to get it far enough past the edge to lift and get the first pick in.

    John Hoffstetter - Réponse

  2. Posez une ventouse sur la partie inférieure de la coque arrière, que vous aurez chauffée. Vérifiez que vous ne confondez pas le côté écran avec le côté coque arrière. Si votre coque arrière est méchamment fissurée, recouvrez-la d'une couche de ruban adhésif d'emballage transparent pour que la ventouse puisse adhérer.
    • Posez une ventouse sur la partie inférieure de la coque arrière, que vous aurez chauffée.

    • Vérifiez que vous ne confondez pas le côté écran avec le côté coque arrière.

    • Si votre coque arrière est méchamment fissurée, recouvrez-la d'une couche de ruban adhésif d'emballage transparent pour que la ventouse puisse adhérer.

    • Tirez fermement et constamment sur la ventouse pour ouvrir un espace.

    • Vous devrez faire un certain effort selon l'âge de votre téléphone. Si vous avez du mal, faites chauffer plus et recommencez.

    • Insérez un médiator dans l'espace.

    The initial opening/insert is the hardest part of this repair, and if you end up having to use a flat-head screwdriver (etc) to get the first gap opened, you’ll scratch the phone. But it works.

    William Kew - Réponse

    I don’t recommend using a screwdriver. I tried this and it shattered the glass in that area. I replaced the battery on my Pixel 1 recently and noted that heating the FRONT glass on that phone enough to get a gap for one of the pics takes a considerable amount of time AND patience. I was one of the few who didn’t break or otherwise damage the glass in that process. I would say the same rule applies here. Allow for significant time and patiences to heat the old adhesive enough to get a pick inside the cover.

    kevlion88 - Réponse

    Definitely, this opening/insert is the hardest part of the procedure. I was unable to open even a slight separation with a suction cup and even with tons of heat from a hair dryer. What worked really well, and what I would highly recommend to others who experience really strong adhesive, is to use a small X-acto knife with a #16 blade. Make sure it’s a #16 (find on Amazon) because it differs greatly in angle and rigidity from the usual #11 blade. The sharpness of the blade makes it really easy to find the crack and open a gap, where you can then insert a pick with no problem.

    Andris Vizulis - Réponse

    I gave up with the iOpener and pick, I tried >5 times for over an hour… After heating with theiOpener, I used and X-acto knife instead and that worked like a charm, except it did leave a few scuff marks unfortunatly. I used a size 22 blade.

    Manny - Réponse

    I really wanted to level off the back of the phone when pulling on the suction cup in this step, but found it was actually pretty easy once I used the opening tool to push down on the edge of the bezel, at the crack, barely putting any force on the back of the phone at all (just to keep it steady).

    Eugene Creswick - Réponse

    I have about a 2 year old Pixel 3. iOpener didn’t work at all on this step, but once I broke out the hair dryer, I was able to get the phone hot enough to insert the pick (no screwdriver or xacto knife needed)

    sliverdragon37 - Réponse

    I’m having trouble with the iOpener too. It is frustrating because I practiced on a bricked iPhone earlier this week and it was effortless. My Pixel 3 is also about 2 years old. Out of curiosity, were you replacing the charging assembly because of the charging cables fitting too loosely on the phone or for some other reason?

    Edwin -

    I used a stanley knive to get started and then a combo of opener and plektrums.

    All went well till I used to much force on the camera corner and broke the back into lots of small pieces. Be careful on that corner, people.

    But the new camera does focus, so for a first attempt at fixing a phone I am happy.

    clas ebeling - Réponse

    I heated the bottom up with the Iopener and then used a rectangular razor blade and the suction cup to lift the bottom. Place the entire blade edge into the crack and push/pry while lifting with the suction cup. As soon as you have a gap start to open, have a second person insert a pick into the corner. It was actually really easy. I had given up after a couple of tries without a blade. My Pixel 3 is 2 years old.

    Jeremy Stewart - Réponse

    Agreed with many other comments here. My Pixel 3 is two years old and neither the iopener nor a blow dryer were capable of loosening it enough. I ended up using a VERY hot iopener for a couple of minutes, the suction cup, and then a wide-bladed razer blade (about 80% width of bottom edge to spread out the stress and prevent risk of fracturing the rear glass panel). Once adding the razer blade I was able to get the pick in and follow the rest of the instructions as written.

    Matt Johnson - Réponse

    I also had to follow this process but resorted to a heat gun on its lowest setting as I couldn’t get the iOpener hot enough (I was afraid of overheating and bursting it). Other how-to videos also show using a thin piece of plastic or metal to slide into the corner, saving substantial time.

    Rick Johnson -

    So I didn’t use a blade, but I did get my fingernail in before the plectrum haha. Happened by accident as I was trying to push down on the bezel to counter the suction cup force.

    I also heated the sides and corners as well as the bottom, which may have helped it budge.

    Dmitriy - Réponse

    Helped me to notice that the focus here is to lift in the center (like right over the USB C connector). Was able to get it with just the iOpener and pushing down on the rest of the phone with the pry tool. My phone is over 2 years old though and it took about 50 minutes of working / reheating / repeating

    Tim Noack - Réponse

    Destroyed the glass back trying to take it off. This is not an easy phone to take apart.

    Andrew Richie - Réponse

    It would be nice if there was a heads up that the rear of the phone is glass….. Phone piping hot glass shattered and splintered

    John Gates - Réponse

    The Jimmy tool from the iFixit toolkit worked like a freakin’ charm. Took me 10 mins to open the phone and it came out unscathed.

    adrianpauly - Réponse

  3. Tranchez l'adhésif le long du bord inférieur et autour du coin droit. Laissez un médiator dans le bord inférieur pour  éviter que l'adhésif colle de nouveau. Laissez un médiator dans le bord inférieur pour  éviter que l'adhésif colle de nouveau.
    • Tranchez l'adhésif le long du bord inférieur et autour du coin droit.

    • Laissez un médiator dans le bord inférieur pour éviter que l'adhésif colle de nouveau.

  4. Faites chauffer le bord droit avec un iOpener et continuez à couper l'adhésif avec un médiator. L'adhésif peut être très poisseux. Déplacez le médiator en le faisant osciller comme une scie pour trancher plus facilement. L'adhésif peut être très poisseux. Déplacez le médiator en le faisant osciller comme une scie pour trancher plus facilement.
    • Faites chauffer le bord droit avec un iOpener et continuez à couper l'adhésif avec un médiator.

    • L'adhésif peut être très poisseux. Déplacez le médiator en le faisant osciller comme une scie pour trancher plus facilement.

    What is the required temperature to soften the glue? Can I just use a small bag filled with boiling water or a heat gun.

    Wiley Sanders - Réponse

    The iOpener is a plastic bag filled with what appears to be water so probably, yes.

    Christopher St. John - Réponse

  5. Continuez à faire chauffer et à trancher l'adhésif du reste du téléphone. Laissez un médiator dans chaque bord pour empêcher l'adhésif de recoller. Quand vous passez au-dessus du bouton de marche, n'insérez le médiator que de la moitié afin d'éviter d'abîmer la nappe du lecteur d'empreintes digitales. Quand vous passez au-dessus du bouton de marche, n'insérez le médiator que de la moitié afin d'éviter d'abîmer la nappe du lecteur d'empreintes digitales.
    • Continuez à faire chauffer et à trancher l'adhésif du reste du téléphone. Laissez un médiator dans chaque bord pour empêcher l'adhésif de recoller.

    • Quand vous passez au-dessus du bouton de marche, n'insérez le médiator que de la moitié afin d'éviter d'abîmer la nappe du lecteur d'empreintes digitales.

  6. Une fois que l'adhésif a été tranché tout le long du périmètre du téléphone, soulevez soigneusement le côté gauche de la coque arrière. N'essayez pas encore de retirer la coque arrière. La nappe du lecteur d'empreintes digitales la relie toujours au téléphone. Faites pivoter la coque arrière autour de l'axe du bord droit et posez-la de façon à ne pas forcer sur la nappe du lecteur d'empreintes digitales.
    • Une fois que l'adhésif a été tranché tout le long du périmètre du téléphone, soulevez soigneusement le côté gauche de la coque arrière.

    • N'essayez pas encore de retirer la coque arrière. La nappe du lecteur d'empreintes digitales la relie toujours au téléphone.

    • Faites pivoter la coque arrière autour de l'axe du bord droit et posez-la de façon à ne pas forcer sur la nappe du lecteur d'empreintes digitales.

  7. Dévissez les deux vis cruciformes de 4,1 mm qui fixent le support du connecteur du lecteur d'empreintes digitales.
    • Dévissez les deux vis cruciformes de 4,1 mm qui fixent le support du connecteur du lecteur d'empreintes digitales.

    • Durant le réassemblage, veillez à ne pas trop visser ces vis, vous risqueriez d'endommager votre écran.

    A magnetic screwdriver tip helped here.

    Ciprian Chelba - Réponse

    If you purchase iFixit’s kit for this replacement, their included driver is magnetic. Helped immensely!

    Rick Johnson -

    after replacing my camera, my screen had a big green/white vertical stripe. I didn’t see the disclaimer about overtightening these screws. I think it may be related.

    Ethan Berry - Réponse

  8. Prenez la pointe d'une spatule pour sortir le support du connecteur du lecteur d'empreintes digitales de sous la bobine NFC. Enlevez le support du connecteur du lecteur d'empreintes digitales. Enlevez le support du connecteur du lecteur d'empreintes digitales.
    • Prenez la pointe d'une spatule pour sortir le support du connecteur du lecteur d'empreintes digitales de sous la bobine NFC.

    • Enlevez le support du connecteur du lecteur d'empreintes digitales.

    Re-inserting this is tricky and requires pretty good dexterity. The shiny metal frame of the wireless charger is also not held down, so you may wish to gently apply pressure to it as you try to re-position the connector bracket.

    William Kew - Réponse

  9. Prenez la pointe d'une spatule pour soulever et débrancher le connecteur du lecteur d'empreintes digitales de sa prise. Faites attention à ne pas détacher les petits composants montés en surface autour de la prise des connecteurs de cette sorte.
    • Prenez la pointe d'une spatule pour soulever et débrancher le connecteur du lecteur d'empreintes digitales de sa prise.

    • Faites attention à ne pas détacher les petits composants montés en surface autour de la prise des connecteurs de cette sorte.

    • Pour rebrancher un connecteur à pression comme celui-ci, alignez-le soigneusement et appuyez d'un côté jusqu'à ce qu'il s'emboîte, puis recommencez de l'autre côté. N'appuyez pas au milieu. Si le connecteur n'est pas aligné correctement, les broches risquent de se déformer et de causer des dégâts irréversibles.

  10. Enlevez la coque arrière. Avant de monter une coque arrière de rechange, assurez-vous de retirer tous les résidus d'adhésif du châssis du téléphone. Prenez un outil d'ouverture pour gratter et de l'alcool isopropylique à haute concentration pour nettoyer la surface. Si vous réutilisez la coque arrière, assurez-vous de nettoyer tout l'adhésif et posez une nouvelle couche d'adhésif.
    • Enlevez la coque arrière.

    • Avant de monter une coque arrière de rechange, assurez-vous de retirer tous les résidus d'adhésif du châssis du téléphone. Prenez un outil d'ouverture pour gratter et de l'alcool isopropylique à haute concentration pour nettoyer la surface.

    • Si vous réutilisez la coque arrière, assurez-vous de nettoyer tout l'adhésif et posez une nouvelle couche d'adhésif.

    • Si vous installez une coque arrière de remplacement, soyez sûr de la comparer avec la pièce originale. Transférez toutes les pièces restantes (comme le diffuseur de flash) à votre pièce de remplacement.

    When reassembling is it better to first attach the new adhesive back gasket to the phone back or the phone chassis frame?

    Tom Burke - Réponse

    Hi Tom!

    It depends on the adhesive. Carefully align the adhesive to the phone by matching the contours. Note which adhesive side is backed by a clear liner, and which side is backed by a colored liner. The clear liner should be removed first. Whichever component the exposed adhesive faces should be the first surface to apply to.

    Hope that helps!

    Arthur Shi -

    Two things:

    1) I recommend attaching the adhesive to the Phone frame and not the back panel. As you attach, you can more easily see the gaps and guide the adhesive along the groove, leaving equal space all around.

    2) To transfer the fingerprint sensor, you will need double-sticky tape to make a new gasket. Put the tape on the back from the inside, and trim with a blade to make the sensor hole. To attach the sensor, place it on something small to raise it off your working surface, then lower the back over it. You’ll be able to see the sensor alignment as you lower the back, which helps get a good position.

    Gary Beardsley - Réponse

    Oh, and be prepared: Removing the old adhesive is teeeeedious!! It will take you some time. :-b Alcohol is not a strong solvent, so don’t expect it to remove much; it is mostly for cleaning afterward. In the end, I used one of iFixit’s flat metal tools from the big toolkit to remove the final remains. Its was blunt enough to not cut metal shavings as I cleaned.

    Gary Beardsley - Réponse

    I ended up reusing the original adhesive as it was in pretty good shape. So far, no problems.

    Dan Comiskey - Réponse

    Does your IF356-119-1, Google Pixel 3 Rear Cover Adhesive, template use 2 sided pressure sensitive tape? Do I simply align it on the back cover and then press it to the device to reassemble the unit? If so, how long til the back cover is “glued” to the unit?

    Martin Seffens - Réponse

    Hi Martin,

    The rear cover adhesive is indeed two-sided PSA (pressure sensitive adhesive). Apply firm even pressure for a minute to bond the adhesive to the unit.

    Arthur Shi -

    When scraping the adhesive off the back cover be careful and don’t apply too much pressure (and/or position the cover against the surface so that it’s supported against the tool used), especially in the corners, or the glass cover rounded edges could break.

    Bart Oleksiak - Réponse

    My battery swelled and did all the hard work getting started popping the back open so I didn’t need the iOpener to get the back off, but now the iOpener is handy to heat up the sticky foamy factory original adhesive.

    I found isopropanol ineffective. I found heat softens it considerably. Just very warm, like hot water warm, is effective. Use tweezers or a plastic blade to help pull it off. Metal blades will either gouge the plastic or, worse, create metal shavings that will wreak havoc.

    Are there any solvents other than isopropanol that work and won’t harm the plastic? How do pros speed up this step?

    wsanders - Réponse

    I think pros often use heating pads or special jigs. They’d set the temperature, set the phone on the pad, and let the phone heat up for a few minutes. Heat guns are also a popular choice.

    Arthur Shi -

    I found that an opening pick worked well to scrape the glue off the inside of the curved edges of the back cover

    Richard Elder - Réponse

    The adhesive on mine took some effort to clean off all the way. During reassembly I did notice that my replacement back panel adhesive was larger than I expected and based off of product photos it looks like I received the 3 XL adhesive instead of the 3. That ended up having me fiddle with the adhesive to try and get it to fit right and unfortunately the camera side now has a bit of a gap that I can still press down on without having it stick. I’ll see how it stays but I fear I might have to get another adhesive. The guide was very helpful though!

    Craig Mileham - Réponse

  11. Dévissez les cinq vis cruciformes qui fixent la bobine de recharge sans fil. Deux vis de 1,9 mm Deux vis de 4,2 mm
    • Dévissez les cinq vis cruciformes qui fixent la bobine de recharge sans fil.

    • Deux vis de 1,9 mm

    • Deux vis de 4,2 mm

    • Une vis de 4,3 mm

    • Ôtez la bobine de recharge sans fil.

    The top 1.9 mm screw can’t be totally removed — it comes out with the coil once loosened

    Dmitriy - Réponse

    Can I leave the wireless charging coil out?

    This may also allow a bigger battery!

    Jex Webster - Réponse

    You may be able to! Note that this is not only the wireless charging coil, but also the NFC antenna (the upper loop).

    Arthur Shi -

    The 1.9 mm screws are actually screwed into the head of another screw beneath them. Sometimes the lower screw unscrews instead of the upper. That leaves both screws attached to the coil. If possible you should separate the two screws and screw the lower one back in first using a small flat blade screwdriver.

    Richard Elder - Réponse

  12. Prenez la pointe d'une spatule (spudger) pour soulever et débrancher le connecteur de la batterie de sa prise sur la droite du téléphone. Prenez la pointe d'une spatule (spudger) pour soulever et débrancher le connecteur de la batterie de sa prise sur la droite du téléphone.
    • Prenez la pointe d'une spatule (spudger) pour soulever et débrancher le connecteur de la batterie de sa prise sur la droite du téléphone.

    The connecton board is quete flexible … be careful otherwise other connectors may get looze.

    This is also valid when re-assemble … pusing battery conector may cause other conectors to “pop“.

    Tsanko Tsolov - Réponse

    The square connector directly below the battery connector came undone and will not pop back into place.

    Curtis Redfield - Réponse

  13. Quand vous manipulez votre spatule à côté de la batterie, faites très attention à ne pas perforer celle-ci. Insérez la pointe d'une spatule dans la fissure sous le ruban adhésif noir qui recouvre la batterie et la carte mère. Faites glisser la spatule le long de la fissure pour décoller le ruban adhésif côté batterie.
    • Quand vous manipulez votre spatule à côté de la batterie, faites très attention à ne pas perforer celle-ci.

    • Insérez la pointe d'une spatule dans la fissure sous le ruban adhésif noir qui recouvre la batterie et la carte mère.

    • Faites glisser la spatule le long de la fissure pour décoller le ruban adhésif côté batterie.

    • Décollez soigneusement le ruban adhésif de la batterie et repliez-le de côté.

    • Le ruban adhésif agit comme un pad thermique pour la carte mère et la batterie. Il fonctionne même s'il est déchiré.

    On my two-year-old phone, I found this tape tears VERY easily.

    Rick Johnson - Réponse

    Anyone know where I can get a replacement to this thermally conducting tape? Or some alternative to it? It tore right off without any hope of reusing the bit that was attached to the battery and now my phone is overheating constantly after doing this repair.

    jeffersdavid93 - Réponse

  14. Soulevez le connecteur des boutons avec la pointe de la spatule pour le débrancher de sa prise sur la carte mère du côté gauche du téléphone. Repliez et écartez le connecteur et sa nappe de la batterie. Repliez et écartez le connecteur et sa nappe de la batterie.
    • Soulevez le connecteur des boutons avec la pointe de la spatule pour le débrancher de sa prise sur la carte mère du côté gauche du téléphone.

    • Repliez et écartez le connecteur et sa nappe de la batterie.

  15. Insérez la pointe d'une spatule sous la languette noire d'extraction de la batterie sur la gauche du téléphone. Faites glisser la spatule le long du bord, vers le haut, pour décoller la languette de la batterie. La batterie est maintenue en place par trois différentes bandes adhésives étirables qui sont collées à une seule languette d'extraction. Vous pouvez tirer en même temps sur les trois bandes, mais il est plus facile de couper la languette noire, puis de tirer tour à tour sur chacune des bandes.
    • Insérez la pointe d'une spatule sous la languette noire d'extraction de la batterie sur la gauche du téléphone.

    • Faites glisser la spatule le long du bord, vers le haut, pour décoller la languette de la batterie.

    • La batterie est maintenue en place par trois différentes bandes adhésives étirables qui sont collées à une seule languette d'extraction. Vous pouvez tirer en même temps sur les trois bandes, mais il est plus facile de couper la languette noire, puis de tirer tour à tour sur chacune des bandes.

    On very old devices, there’s a good chance these will just break before you get the strip out. The alcohol tip in the next step is quite likely going to be required.

    Rick Johnson - Réponse

  16. Tirez sur la languette noire avec une force constante et en forment un angle plat. Si la bande s'étire beaucoup, enroulez-la autour des pointes d'une spatule et continuez à tirer. Si la bande adhésive se casse, aidez-vous d'un médiator pour soulever et décoller la batterie. Vous pouvez aussi remplir un compte-goutes en plastique ou une seringue avec de l'alcool isopropylique à haute concentration et appliquer quelques goutes d'alcool sous le bord gauche de la batterie. Donnez une minute à l'alcool  pour ramollir l'adhésif de la batterie.
    • Tirez sur la languette noire avec une force constante et en forment un angle plat. Si la bande s'étire beaucoup, enroulez-la autour des pointes d'une spatule et continuez à tirer.

    • Si la bande adhésive se casse, aidez-vous d'un médiator pour soulever et décoller la batterie.

    • Vous pouvez aussi remplir un compte-goutes en plastique ou une seringue avec de l'alcool isopropylique à haute concentration et appliquer quelques goutes d'alcool sous le bord gauche de la batterie. Donnez une minute à l'alcool pour ramollir l'adhésif de la batterie.

    This was pretty tricky for me, required a reasonable amount of force as the bottom of the 3 tapes shown above ripped straight away, so I couldnt stretch to de-sticky it. There seemed to also be a fourth piece of adhesive on the bottom most part of the battery which was not shown in this guide, and did not have an external tab.

    William Kew - Réponse

    I also had issues with this step. The tweezers immediately caused the tape to break on all three strips (after working with my hands for a while) and prying up the battery was tricky with ~1/2 of the adhesive still in place.

    Eugene Creswick - Réponse

    Same here, all three strips broke with most of them left in place under the battery. The small foam buffer block from the left edge of the battery mentioned in the next step broke while I was working on removing the battery with the opening !$$&*.

    Ciprian Chelba - Réponse

    same issue here … just pry the battery and hope for the best :)

    I have iFixit plastic card (from MacBook battery replacement kit) … it made me more confident while removing the battery.

    Tsanko Tsolov - Réponse

    This was the hardest part of the repair for me. I wasn’t able to pull these out without them tearing. I would definitely elaborate more on how to do this in different situations.

    joshua kolash - Réponse

    Yeah, if you are going to have a catastrophic battery melt down, this will be the step. If your phone is older, those tapes will not stretch enough to release and you will need to gently pry. Watch your fingers and keep some water near by. Why on earth they feel the need to GLUE the battery down I will never understand.

    Meredith Everett - Réponse

    I tried adding some heat to the front.. I don’t know if that helped, but this is definitely the most physically forceful part. After my adhesive broke, I pried the battery up and was able to us the spudger to poke at remaining adhesive and break it apart manually.

    Noah Garrett - Réponse

  17. Ôtez la batterie. Soulevez et retirez soigneusement le petit bloc en mousse sur le bord gauche de la batterie et transférez-le sur votre pièce de remplacement. S'il commence à se déchirer, utilisez l'embout plat d'une spatule (spudger) pour délicatement le décoller de la batterie.
    • Ôtez la batterie.

    • Soulevez et retirez soigneusement le petit bloc en mousse sur le bord gauche de la batterie et transférez-le sur votre pièce de remplacement. S'il commence à se déchirer, utilisez l'embout plat d'une spatule (spudger) pour délicatement le décoller de la batterie.

    • Pour installer une batterie de remplacement :

    • Appliquez plusieurs bandes de ruban adhésif double-face dans la cavité de la batterie. Si vous utilisez du ruban Tesa pour fixer des éléments, suivez ce tutoriel.

    • Rebranchez temporairement le connecteur de la batterie dans sa prise sur la carte mère. Vous serez ainsi sûr de positionner correctement la batterie.

    • Décollez les films de protection pour mettre la colle à découvert.

    • Posez la batterie sur l'adhésif et appuyez fermement.

    • Débranchez le connecteur de la batterie de sa prise sur la carte mère et commencez le remontage.

    It’s very easy to tear the foam block off from the adhesive backing strip that holds it to the battery; I think it’d be good to talk explicitly about how you need to get under that adhesive strip if you want to re-attach it to the new battery… I think friction will work to hold mine in place, but I do wish I’d known that would be an issue.

    Eugene Creswick - Réponse

    I also found installing the new adhesive strips to be next to impossible. For other folks trying this with the iFixit adhesive strips:

    Just cut the three strips apart as you remove them from the packing plastic; you only want to deal with one strip at a time. You will probably never get them apart (without stretching them out of shape) if they stick to eachother.

    Eugene Creswick - Réponse

    Hi Eugene,

    Thanks for the comments! I’ll adjust the step to include your suggestions.

    Arthur Shi -

    Directions/photos on how to use the iFixit adhesive strips would have been nice. I wish I saw your comment first.

    Dan Larsen -

    Yeah, I completely ruined my adhesive strips. It would have been nice to have a step for that. I ended up using some double sided tape.

    Oh, and not to mention that there’s basically no way to get the foam to come off the old battery without destroying it. So, I used a small piece of rolled up tape (not squished completely so it has some springiness) and taped it to the battery.

    Kyle Barr -

    The battery lateral position is captured between the foam block on one side, and the long black arm portion of the charging coil on the other side. So before setting the battery in place, be certain to temporarily insert the charging coil.

    rossh - Réponse

    When removing the battery it can (and did for me) catch on and disconnect ALL of the connectors on the right-hand side. Remember to verify ALL connectors are properly seated.

    Chuck - Réponse

    Very good description. Battery replaced and working perfect! Thank you!

    Marius Johansen - Réponse

    Seconding Chuck’s comment about making sure the connectors are slotted in at the end. In my case, the primary connector for the battery was finnicky plugging in, and I didn’t realize that it hadn’t actually clicked into place. Spent a couple days with my phone randomly powering down because the battery was touching the board just enough to turn on, but slight movement would jostle it out of place.

    I was getting pretty worried until I took it all apart again and had the realization that it was never fully plugged in. No problems since (knock on wood)

    Bennie Waters - Réponse

    What happens if I break the black foil tape on the top of the battery while peeling back? I notice there is a plus and minus positivity area on the battery here. Is this conductive tape? Will it not work if this area breaks?

    Brenton Cooper - Réponse

    Hi Brenton

    The tape acts as a cooling pad for the motherboard and battery. It does not need to be in one piece to do its job.

    Arthur Shi -

    Had a bulging battery and during removing the adhesive behind it I cut through the bottom portion of cable leading to the buttons.

    All of this glue is an unnecessary part of smartphone design. I’d rather see a few screws in my phone (which always has a case on it) then ruin my phone attempting a repair because the designer thought it’d be a good idea to pinch this cable between two pieces of metal next to where they used tons of adhesive to make the battery so difficult to remove. We need a right to repair law in place already.

    Nothing negative to iFixit. Directions and supplies are top notch.

    Kris Oliveira - Réponse

    Edit: Ends up the phone works but the volume keys do not, so that’s a plus. I’ll have a functional phone until I replace the cable.

    Kris Oliveira -

    For some reason after replacing the battery, the pixel is stuck on G. it booted once and showed “battery not readable”. and now its not booting. Any help will be appreciated.

    Ankit Agarwal - Réponse

    Hi Ankit,

    If you still have your original battery, please try plugging that in and booting the Pixel. If it works, you may have a defective replacement battery. If you bought the replacement from iFIxit, please contact our customer support and we will get the issue resolved!

    Arthur Shi -

    So these days they send you replacement tape (instead of needing to find some double-sided tape like the directions mention). Unfortunately, it *sticks* to one side of the film it’s shipped in, so strongly, that you’ll deform (if not completely ruin) trying to get it off. so yeah, i had to go buy some 2-sided tape. :(

    emiro99 - Réponse

    Agreed. The directions are a bit misleading:

    Peel away any tape liners to expose the adhesive.

    I think the proper way is to leave the liners in place. Test seat the new battery. Then peel one side of liner off. Stick the tape to the phone. Then, peel the second protective liner. Then place the battery.

    If you try to peel the adhesive off of the liner, it snaps back on itself and is stuck to itself and is a goner.

    Noah Garrett -

    Agree with this comment, and Noah's comment too, however solutions offered (other than buying regular 2-sided tape) did not work for me.

    I wanted to remove one liner on the ifixit provided adhesive replacement tape, place it inside the battery well and then remove the second liner. However, the liner that needs to be removed to be able to stick inside the wheel well is not the first one to come off, it's the other one that does! So I tried to remove both liners and yeah I made a mess of my adhesive strips, it's a nest of adhesive tape below my new replacement battery but it’s holding up fine.

    Adarsh Viji Elango -

    Thanks for the suggestions! I’ll adjust the wording slightly to correct this.

    Arthur Shi -

    Just FYI, the foam buffer on mine was disintegrated and would crumble at the slightest touch, perhaps due to age and heat. So I guess I’ll use double stick foam tape. Hope that doesn’t create issues. Otherwise good tutorial, great pictures and tips.

    lars sveen - Réponse

    Definitely need some kind of direction on how to use the iFixit double sided tape. I think I pulled the wrong side of the liner off of the tape and realized after the fact that it was backwards in how it goes in the phone. Too late. Once you pull that liner off, you can’t put it back on to flip and use in the correct orientation - the tape is now stuck to the liner and won’t come off. I now need to use my own double sided tape.

    Chris Nunamaker - Réponse

    Thanks for the feedback! I added a link in the last step with some adhesive instructions.

    Arthur Shi -

Conclusion

Pour une performance optimale, calibrez votre batterie fraîchement installée : chargez-la à 100 % et laissez-la charger pendant au moins deux heures supplémentaires. Puis, utilisez votre téléphone jusqu’à ce que la batterie soit vide et qu’il s’éteigne. Enfin rechargez-le à 100 % sans interruption.

Pour remonter votre appareil, suivez ces instructions en sens inverse.

Apportez vos déchets électroniques à un recycleur certifié R2 ou e-Stewards.

La réparation ne s’est pas déroulée comme prévu ? Consultez la section Google Pixel 3 de notre communauté de réponses pour obtenir de l’aide au diagnostic.

84 autres ont terminé cette réparation.

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Arthur Shi

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23 commentaires

Removing the adhesive from the rear glass can be a tedious process. I got my best results by taking fine point tweezers and pulling the adhesive back slowly, trying to get it to come up altogether as much as possible before using IPA to remove any residue.

Brody Mistrot - Réponse

How do you put the adhesive back (or put new adhesive on) when putting the phone back together?

Brian Ferraro -

@bfferraro, it depends on the type of adhesive.

If you are using a pre-cut adhesive sheet, follow this guide.

If you have a custom-cut adhesive, follow this guide.

Arthur Shi -

What thickness(es) of tape is/are required to complete the battery replacement process?

mpc - Réponse

Hi mpc,

The tape does not need to be thick at all. You can use standard double-sided tape, or the fancier stretch-release adhesive.

Arthur Shi -

What adhesive is used to reapply the back to the phone when this is done?

David Gunter - Réponse

Hi David,

Double-sided adhesive such as Tesa tape works well.

Arthur Shi -

It looks like the 2mm width would be ideal for this, for future reference.

William Kew -

I just finished the Pixel 3 battery replacement. This guide covers all the steps well. For re-attaching the back to the case I used the 1 mm width tape available from this size. The precut card was not available at the time I was ordering parts. I guessed on 1 mm but after using it, it seemed to work well. I cut long, straight lengths for the sides and top & bottom, and then filled each corner with a short piece placed diagonally. Seemed to hold ok.

Thank you for the excellent guide.

mpc -

Thanks! Straightforward repair with this guide.

The warning about breaking the fingerprint sensor cable is important. I didn’t break mine… :-)

Wayne Seltzer - Réponse

I had one small issue with putting all of it together. If you want to test the wireless charging you need to put a little space between the coil and the charger. I suspect their is a minimum distance between the coils to get them to couple properly and without this the charger talks to the phone but does not start charging.

notstarman - Réponse

Unfortunately my phone won’t boot correctly after replacing the battery. Fastboot Mode with Device-State: error! I must’ve damaged something while trying this process. Be careful, folks!

Matthew Quinn - Réponse

I’m having to replace the back glass as it cracked and i’m thinking of replacing the battery as well since I think it has swelling.

Do i need to be as careful removing the back since I’ll be replacing that anyway, or is there still a difference between the back glass and the battery door?

Cabroncito - Réponse

Hi Cabroncito!

The battery door/back glass are the same. You don’t have to worry about cracking it, since it’s already cracked. Be careful not to damage the fingerprint sensor cable shown in step 1! Replacing the battery at this point is a great idea! Good luck with your repairs!

Arthur Shi -

Process went pretty smoothly. Only real issues I had were putting the new battery adhesive on (I got it all tangled before I set it in place). Removing the old adhesive was a bit annoying as well but after all that, it went together well and works. Thanks for the great guide!

Corey Maeltzer - Réponse

Great guide, I had to check a youtube video too (extra caution). However, the main reference was this guide, thanks for the help. The rubbing alcohol (+90%) is a must, I can stress enough how complicated/slow was to remove the adhesive from the phone.

Chrystyan Parada - Réponse

I feel that some instruction advising how to apply the adhesive for the battery would be helpful. I took mine off the protective film thinking that it would hold its shape and it immediately folded on itself. I was able to salvage a piece to hold the battery, but I consider that step a failure for me. Plus, showing how to clean the old adhesive from the back panel and applying the new adhesive would be helpful too.

Overall a really helpful guide that helped me to get the job done. Thanks!

Trey Ethridge - Réponse

Half an hour ago I had a bulgy battery and some raging fear. Now I have a working phone and I can’t thank you enough for this guide. I feel like a tech wizard! (with a menacing fat old battery that I need to find a place to recycle….)

Seconding/thirding the commentary on the included adhesive strips for the battery being difficult - mine also immediately curled into themselves. I used a small bit of mounting tape instead and that worked just fine. A classic case of problems between the keyboard and chair. The new back panel adhesive was easier to deal with (remove protective film on one side, align and press, then remove the other film), though removing the old stuff was a chore and a half even with 91% alcohol; it had been on there for several years.

Sara Patrick - Réponse

Oh, I guess I only commented on the battery step, not the whole article. Well, here it is again:

Welp. I followed this tutorial to a T, but now my phone’s display is completely broken and there is a hissing a popping sound towards the bottom of the phone, accompanied by a very hot spot on the display area where that hissing is coming from. This was after it booted fine, but with about 1/3 of the total area the screen covered in vertical lines from left to right.

I have a feeling this may have been due to the isopropyl alcohol step (which was basically the only way to actually remove the adhesive from the battery).

I am just not sure what to say. I followed the steps as closely as possible, and I made sure to dry the isopropyl alcohol beforehand.

I do not think I will ever work on a phone again. Probably safer to just hope you still have a warranty, or buy a new one.

Kyle Barr - Réponse

Really dumb that I can’t edit my comments after 5 minutes.

-

Update: I let it sit overnight, put it back together again, and it was able to mostly work, less a green line or two in the OLED screen. I’m wondering if there was a mix of isopropyl alcohol and me pressing the back closed caused the OLED to go nuts. This is fine for now and I can use the phone again, but I still don’t plan to try to fix any phones again.

I will add: IFixIt’s guides are pretty awful. There’s no reason that the guide should have ended at removing the battery. There were crucial steps like, how to fix the adhesive for the battery and phone, recommended way to seal the phone back up (to ensure you don’t break the OLED screen). I even looked at the OLED replacement tutorial and the farthest it got was removing the screen. I guess it expects you to guess how to put it back together by walking back through the tutorial, which mostly doesn’t work.

Kyle Barr -

Thanks for the great instructions!

After replacing the battery, the screen on my phone would not come on. I was worried I might had disconnected the display connector, so I opened the phone up again. Turns out all you have to do is to reset the phone. To do this, press and hold the power button for about 10-15 seconds. The screen will turn back on with the Google logo showing.

Cheers!

Torgeir Helgesen Riseth - Réponse

Hi, I have spent hours trying to get my pixel 3’s back cover opened following this guide and also with the hair dryer to the point where the phone’s back cover around the bottom edge is very very hot (could only place my finger on it for a second or so). Also tried other suction cups and the cover just didn’t budge at all and my fingers and hands gave up.

Anyone maybe have other ideas to share? I am using the ifixit repair kit that included the Pixel 3 battery and the phone is about 2.5 years old and has never been taken apart/repaired.

Thank you!

Thomas - Réponse

Hi Thomas,

The Pixel’s adhesive is pretty tough! Slightly too hot to the touch (where you can place your finger on for a second) is the right temperature. You may need to do multiple heat/suction cycles to loosen the adhesive enough to create a gap. You can also try the top edge, where the adhesive is slightly thinner, or the left edge, where the longer adhesive may loosen faster. Good luck with your repairs!

Arthur Shi -

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