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Introduction

Retirez en toute sécurité la batterie collée à l'intérieur de votre MacBook Pro à l'aide de ce tutoriel et d'un kit de remplacement de batterie iFixit. Le dissolvant liquide contenu dans le kit dissout l'adhésif fixant la batterie, ensuite vous pouvez l'enlever facilement. Sinon, vous pouvez utiliser un iOpener pour appliquer de la chaleur, ce qui permet de ramollir la colle avant de retirer la batterie.

Le dissolvant iFixit est extrêmement inflammable. Utilisez-le seulement dans une pièce bien ventilée. Ne fumez pas et tenez-vous éloigné de flammes à découvert durant toute la procédure.

Pour minimiser le risque de dommages, déchargez la batterie avant de commencer la réparation. Si une batterie lithium-ion encore chargée est percée par accident, elle risque de déclencher un incendie dangereux et incontrôlable. Si votre batterie est gonflée, prenez les précautions appropriées.

Remarque : le dissolvant utilisé pour dissoudre l'adhésif de la batterie peut endommager certains composants en plastique, comme les boîtiers des haut-parleurs du MacBook Pro. Faites donc très attention lorsque vous manipulez le dissolvant.

Si vous utilisez l'ancien dissolvant iFixit avec bouteille et seringue séparées (qui n'est plus en vente), cliquez ici pour des instructions légèrement modifiées.

  1. Ôtez les dix vis suivantes, fixant le boîtier inférieur au boîtier supérieur :
    • Ôtez les dix vis suivantes, fixant le boîtier inférieur au boîtier supérieur :

    • Deux vis Pentalobe de 2,3 mm

    • Huit vis Pentalobe de 3,0 mm

    For all the screws you use the P5 pentalobe screwdriver?

    Carlos - Réponse

    Pentalobe is only for the screws on the bottom cover. The Torx screw driver is for the remainder.

    Fredrik -

    Is the Pentalobe screwdriver mentioned in the tools list? I did not have one so I used a filed down flat blade screwdriver. Not a fantastic idea, but it works.

    Alex Birkett - Réponse

    Yes, it's mentioned on the top of this page. P5 Pentalobe to be precise. I didn't have one either, so I bought one from iFixit and that works fantastic. An absolutely precise fit, which is important especially when you might open your MacBook a couple of times during the years you own it. Not using the correct tool might do more harm to the screws than you want! I once had this with a Lenovo Yoga 3 Pro, which has Torx screws (T4 I think) and I used cheap Chinese quality tools, with the result that both the tool and one of the screws are damaged.

    addvariety -

    the macbook in the picture is 2012. does it has the same structure as 2013?

    Edison - Réponse

    I never, ever, ever considered using anything but the correct tool on the Pentalobe screws. Too easy to strip and void your warranty (if still in effect), as well as make it almost impossible to get inside later for another upgrade or repair. The Wiha P5 Pentalobe screwdriver fits like a glove and costs only about $11 (a fraction of your drive's price)at Amazon.com. Get it!

    marketing - Réponse

    is P5 supposed to be for all 10 screws? it works on the 2x 2.3mm at the top, but not for the 8x others for me. what size screwdriver for the 3mm? thanks

    monsieurescargot - Réponse

    Yes, the p5 works for all 10 pentalobe screw heads for bottom cover. The the different size mm reference only refers to the difference in length of the screws, but again both heads are p5.

    Antoine Thornton - Réponse

    I followed this exactly and was able to replace my broken trackpad. I did not have to replace the ribbon OR the battery. However I would suggest getting the ribbon since it’s fairly cheap, as for the batteries I was able to do it with a card only. I didn’t use any heat or the liquid but it takes some time. You really have to work the card in there to release the glue. Also you must be very careful not to bend the batteries or damage them, if you do you must replace with new. This took me about 1.5hrs and my computer works like new. Apple cost for this job was around $450, I did it for $120. Big ups to ifixit for this awesome tutorial, tool set and parts!

    On a side note, only use quality tools, the cheap ones will break or strip the screws.

    Dustin Steward - Réponse

    Note that the eight 3mm screws have a shoulder under the head, while the two 2.3mm screws are “full thread”, i.e., there is no shoulder under their heads. It’s important to put the two screws with no shoulder at the hinge of the cover.

    All ten screws require a P5 Pentalobe screwdriver, preferably with a magnetized tip to help hold and position the screw.

    All of the screws have blue “Loctite” thread locker compound on their threads. This is to help prevent the screws from working loose and falling out. Don’t attempt to clean the Loctite from the screws — leave it in place, and it will continue to help prevent the re-inserted screws from working loose.

    When replacing the bottom cover, it is a good technique to insert and BEGIN tightening all ten screws BEFORE fully tightening any one screw. After all the screws have been started, then go around and finish tightening all of them. By doing this, you make it easier to feel that each screw has been started properly, and is not “cross-threaded”.

    doubleclutch - Réponse

    A good technique for starting to thread the screws when replacing them is to position and align the screw, and with the driver, gently turn the screw in the REMOVAL direction until you feel and hear a slight click. This click happens when the leading thread of the screw drops off of the leading edge of the thread in the hole — this is the point at which the threads are properly positioned for engagement. You can now turn the driver and screw in the TIGHTENING direction. This technique will help prevent accidental “cross-threading” of the screw, which will damage the threads permanently.

    Note that this is a useful technique when installing ANY threaded fastener.

    doubleclutch - Réponse

  2. Mettez vos doigts entre le boîtier inférieur et le boîtier supérieur.
    • Mettez vos doigts entre le boîtier inférieur et le boîtier supérieur.

    • Séparez avec précaution les deux boîtiers et retirez le boîtier inférieur.

    This takes a bit more effort than you might expect. Put your fingers where shown and lift about 3inches. With enough upwards pressure the plastic holders will “pop free” and the bottom will come off easily.

    hamiltont - Réponse

  3. Le boîtier inférieur est connecté au boîtier supérieur par deux attaches en plastique au milieu. Lors du remontage, appuyez doucement sur le milieu du boîtier inférieur pour que les deux attaches s'enclenchent à nouveau.
    • Le boîtier inférieur est connecté au boîtier supérieur par deux attaches en plastique au milieu.

    • Lors du remontage, appuyez doucement sur le milieu du boîtier inférieur pour que les deux attaches s'enclenchent à nouveau.

    There are two screws that are shorter-they go to the back near the vent.

    wrbandllm - Réponse

    This was already mentioned at the start, it says 2x 2.3mm screws and those are coloured red instead of orange for the other ones in iFixit's image.

    addvariety - Réponse

    What is the black vinyl-y sticker on the inside of the case (some sort of shield?). I was forced to slightly puncture it in order to replace the feet on my laptop. Thanks in advance.

    Tommy Huang - Réponse

    When I got the back off, I found this piece loose, any idea what it is? about 9mm long frosted plastic

    https://imgur.com/a/tYaxGdG

    Fred Anderson - Réponse

    This wording I found quite confusing. They just mean when putting the lid back on that you just removed in the previous step, push here.

    Mmm ttt - Réponse

  4. Si nécessaire, retirez le cache en plastique couvrant la carte de contact de la batterie.
    • Si nécessaire, retirez le cache en plastique couvrant la carte de contact de la batterie.

    Do you know where I can purchase this plastic cover? Mine is missing and no one will work on my computer without it.

    jodieabc - Réponse

    There is no point on going near the battery or logic board. I cut out these steps with no issue. It is precautionary but unnecessary.

    Jaime Leonard - Réponse

  5. Avec l'extrémité plate d'une spatule (spudger), tirez le connecteur de la batterie tout droit hors de sa prise sur la carte mère. Assurez-vous de faire levier uniquement sur le connecteur et non pas sur sa prise, sinon vous risquez d'endommager irréversiblement la carte mère.
    • Avec l'extrémité plate d'une spatule (spudger), tirez le connecteur de la batterie tout droit hors de sa prise sur la carte mère.

    • Assurez-vous de faire levier uniquement sur le connecteur et non pas sur sa prise, sinon vous risquez d'endommager irréversiblement la carte mère.

    I have a friends MacBook Pro that has some water damage that caused the MacBook not to be able to use battery power, but still work when plugged into A/C. Upon further inspection I can see visible corrosion on a few of the 9 cables going from the battery connector to that small circuit board. Is it possible to just replace that circuit board?

    jramsey21 - Réponse

    I have the some problem. I was thinking to replace the whole battery but I am not it will solve the problem. Any suggestions?

    salvatorebarbera -

    Sometimes it can be enough to just clean the contacts without having to replace the entire board. Dosent work for complicated IC's like plcc type, where corrosion is underneath the chip. Here you will have to reheat and reapply the IC.

    andrehedegaard -

    Hi,have you find the solution for your battery? I also have same problem, run with plugs but it battery not supporting… as soon the plug of it goes off

    Jewel Rahman -

    Have either of you replaced the battery and/or circuit board to fix the MacBooks with the water damage ? I have the same problem with the MacBook working fine when connected to power but dying immediately when the power cord is removed.

    Steve - Réponse

    Hi, Steve. I had the same problem: Macbook Pro 15 retina with coffee damage. And it worked fine when connected to power. I made it working after replacing the whole battery. It seems that circuit connected to the battery becomes disabled to prevent short circuit.

    Vadim Gribanov -

    When placing the battery connector back into the socket on the logic board, check that every part of connector is pressed down. You should hear a soft click when it's back in place.

    Ethan Tarquin - Réponse

    Thanks for the comment. My MBP isn’t powering on after I walked through these steps, and I assume it is because the battery connector isn’t fully connected. (I can’t check yet since I borrowed the pentalobe screwdriver)

    Caleb Steinborn -

    +1

    I thought I made sure it was connected but when running the computer it only detected the battery but couldn’t power it. I had to run with power adapter. Also it didn’t charge. I guess some pins were connected but not all. To verify that all were connected I removed the plastic cover, placed it carefully completely flat, and then reattached the plastic cover. After that it worked!

    Jonas Ehrs -

    If I only want to replace the trackpad cable, then which steps should I skip? This step seems unnecessary

    Parth Gudhka - Réponse

    Removing the battery connector took a bit of finagling. It wasn’t as easy as one would think. Be very careful when doing this as they warn to not damage it. Otherwise great instructions!!!!

    Peppon - Réponse

  6. Pliez le connecteur de la batterie vers le haut afin d'éviter tout contact accidentel avec la prise pendant la réparation.
    • Pliez le connecteur de la batterie vers le haut afin d'éviter tout contact accidentel avec la prise pendant la réparation.

    If you miss or let this step for later like I did, the power left in the battery even though the computer is completely shut down, will screw up the I/O board cable like I did. I noticed this after I put all the pieces back, turn the computer on and surprise, no wifi hardware is detected. -.-

    sebasgaes - Réponse

    Not sure I understand: did leaving the battery plugged in permanently broke the I/O board (or anything else)?

    Adrien Izzet -

    I put a small piece of blue painters tape on the battery connector contacts to prevent it from accidentally making a connection and shorting. This helped keep things a bit more protected.

    LaymanLab - Réponse

    That’s a great idea!

    David Lilliebridge - Réponse

    I used a small piece of paper to prevent the connector from connecting, no need to wrestle with even low-stick adhesive.

    dbrick - Réponse

  7. Dévissez les deux vis Torx T5 de 2,1 mm fixant le support de la nappe de la carte E/S du côté de la carte mère.
    • Dévissez les deux vis Torx T5 de 2,1 mm fixant le support de la nappe de la carte E/S du côté de la carte mère.

    At this point it's a good idea to take sheet of printer paper, like A4, and press each screw into the paper roughly in the position it was removed from. When it comes time to reassemble it, you wont get the different lengths mixed up.

    Martin Gray - Réponse

    This step was not necessary for me to remove the battery. Perhaps it's a safety precaution? Regardless, skipped the I/O Cable removal (Steps 7, 8, 9, 10) and didn't have any problems replacing the battery.

    barak - Réponse

    After this step I continued from step 13, the steps in between were not really necessary in my opinion ( I succeeded the replacement without them). Just be careful not to touch these connectors during replacement.

    driesverfaillie - Réponse

    While it may not be necessary to remove the left and right speakers, doing so will make it much easier to get at (and under) the end batteries and their adhesive pads. Also, by removing the speakers, you also get them out of harm’s way while you wrestle with loosening the batteries’ adhesives.

    I recommend removing the speakers and their connectors as described in the iFixit instructions.

    doubleclutch - Réponse

  8. Saisissez le support de la nappe de la carte E/S avec une pincette et retirez-le du Macbook.
    • Saisissez le support de la nappe de la carte E/S avec une pincette et retirez-le du Macbook.

  9. Utilisez l'extrémité plate d'une spatule (spudger) pour ôter le connecteur de la carte E/S de sa prise sur la carte mère. Veillez à faire seulement levier sur la nappe de la carte E/S et non sur la prise elle-même, vous risqueriez d'endommager la carte mère.
    • Utilisez l'extrémité plate d'une spatule (spudger) pour ôter le connecteur de la carte E/S de sa prise sur la carte mère.

    • Veillez à faire seulement levier sur la nappe de la carte E/S et non sur la prise elle-même, vous risqueriez d'endommager la carte mère.

  10. Saisissez la nappe de la carte E/S par son extrémité du côté de la carte mère et soulevez-la et pliez-la pour qu'elle ne vous dérange pas. Pour éviter d'endommager la nappe, pliez-la seulement au niveau du coude à l'extrémité de la nappe la plus proche de la carte E/S.
    • Saisissez la nappe de la carte E/S par son extrémité du côté de la carte mère et soulevez-la et pliez-la pour qu'elle ne vous dérange pas.

    • Pour éviter d'endommager la nappe, pliez-la seulement au niveau du coude à l'extrémité de la nappe la plus proche de la carte E/S.

    I removed I/O Board cable completely on both ends using a flat end plastic spudger tool. I did not feel comfortable “bending” it as shown in Pic. Be careful to not damage sockets on either end when removing battery. Extra care to not get any adhesive debris in exposed sockets. I have used the solvent with syringe and that can get rather messy and risk getting liquid onto keyboard/screen/motherboard components etc/. This time I used a plastic “Disposable Putty Knife” from Ace hardware. Speakers where easily removed in subsequent steps. Started pushing in from edges with plastic putty knife and battery cells separated surprisingly easy. This method is clean & much easier than the dental floss struggle!! I used Googone with QTips to remove adhesive remnants.

    lamajr - Réponse

  11. Insérez délicatement l'extrémité pointue du spudger sous la nappe du haut-parleur droit à proximité du connecteur. Ensuite soulevez-la afin de la déconnecter de sa prise sur la carte mère. Insérez délicatement l'extrémité pointue du spudger sous la nappe du haut-parleur droit à proximité du connecteur. Ensuite soulevez-la afin de la déconnecter de sa prise sur la carte mère.
    • Insérez délicatement l'extrémité pointue du spudger sous la nappe du haut-parleur droit à proximité du connecteur. Ensuite soulevez-la afin de la déconnecter de sa prise sur la carte mère.

    Same as my comment on Step 7: This step was not necessary for me to remove the battery. Perhaps it's a safety precaution? Regardless, I skipped the speaker cable removal (Steps 11, 12) and didn't have any problems replacing the battery. Same as my comment on Step 11: This step was not necessary for me to remove the battery. Perhaps it's a safety precaution? Regardless, I skipped the speaker cable removal (Steps 11, 12) and didn't have any problems replacing the battery. ( FYI - I used a heat path method, vs the solvent)

    barak - Réponse

    WARNING TO ANYONE WHO DOES THIS STEP! Be very careful to distinguish the cable end from the socket! I just managed to break the entire socket off of the logic board. I may try to solder it back on, but I may not, since it’s only for the speaker… Very disappointing anyway. The instructions should make it more clear just how delicate the socket itself is, especially right where the photo shows you inserting the spudger under the cable end to start dislodging it. It’s really hard to distinguish the cable end from the socket on this side!

    jiclark - Réponse

    Put the spudger under the very centre where you see the cutout and be gentle !! It does in fact pry upward the wire itself is very fragile.

    Mmm ttt - Réponse

  12. Batteries pour ordinateurs portables

    Une réparation facile pour un gain en puissance max.

    Acheter maintenant

    Batteries pour ordinateurs portables

    Une réparation facile pour un gain en puissance max.

    Acheter maintenant
  13. Soulevez délicatement la nappe du haut-parleur droit hors du boîtier supérieur. Soulevez délicatement la nappe du haut-parleur droit hors du boîtier supérieur. Soulevez délicatement la nappe du haut-parleur droit hors du boîtier supérieur.
    • Soulevez délicatement la nappe du haut-parleur droit hors du boîtier supérieur.

  14. Enlevez les vis suivantes, fixant le haut-parleur droit au boîtier supérieur :
    • Enlevez les vis suivantes, fixant le haut-parleur droit au boîtier supérieur :

    • Une vis Torx T5 de 5,7 mm

    • Une vis Torx T5 de 6,5 mm

    • Une vis Torx T5 de 3,8 mm

  15. Soulevez le haut-parleur droit à l'endroit où se situe la nappe et enlevez-le du boîtier. Soulevez le haut-parleur droit à l'endroit où se situe la nappe et enlevez-le du boîtier. Soulevez le haut-parleur droit à l'endroit où se situe la nappe et enlevez-le du boîtier.
    • Soulevez le haut-parleur droit à l'endroit où se situe la nappe et enlevez-le du boîtier.

  16. Insérez la pointe d'une spatule (spudger) sous la nappe du haut-parleur gauche au niveau du connecteur et débranchez-la de sa prise sur la carte mère. Insérez la pointe d'une spatule (spudger) sous la nappe du haut-parleur gauche au niveau du connecteur et débranchez-la de sa prise sur la carte mère.
    • Insérez la pointe d'une spatule (spudger) sous la nappe du haut-parleur gauche au niveau du connecteur et débranchez-la de sa prise sur la carte mère.

    Same as my comment on Step 11: This step was not necessary for me to remove the battery. Perhaps it's a safety precaution? Regardless, I skipped the speaker cable removal (Steps 11, 12) and didn't have any problems replacing the battery. ( FYI - I used a heat path method, vs the solvent).

    barak - Réponse

    Yes, no need to unplug the speakers cable. I used the solent, just put speakers on the motherboard.

    Aleš Smokvina - Réponse

    slight touch of glue secures speaker cable to MB. Use steady light presuure with spudger edge to unglue and then disconnect cable from MB

    lamajr - Réponse

  17. Dévissez les vis suivantes, fixant le haut parleur gauche au boîtier supérieur :
    • Dévissez les vis suivantes, fixant le haut parleur gauche au boîtier supérieur :

    • Une vis Torx T5 de 5,7 mm

    • Une vis Torx T5 de 6,5 mm

    • Une vis Torx T5 de 3,8 mm

  18. Soulevez le coin du haut-parleur gauche et faites-le glisser pour le dégager de la batterie et sortir du boîtier. Veillez à ne pas accrocher la nappe du haut-parleur au trou de vis sur le bord du boîtier. Veillez à ne pas accrocher la nappe du haut-parleur au trou de vis sur le bord du boîtier.
    • Soulevez le coin du haut-parleur gauche et faites-le glisser pour le dégager de la batterie et sortir du boîtier.

    • Veillez à ne pas accrocher la nappe du haut-parleur au trou de vis sur le bord du boîtier.

  19. Dévissez les cinq vis Torx T5 de 3,7 mm qui fixent la batterie au boîtier supérieur.
    • Dévissez les cinq vis Torx T5 de 3,7 mm qui fixent la batterie au boîtier supérieur.

    In my macbook pro retina, these are some kind of plastic screws. I cannot remove them.

    adriendavernas - Réponse

    The plastic screws just need to be pulled out with a spudger/finger and you're good to go. I have the same model, there's also a screw on the power board not mentioned in this guide, takes a T5 screwdriver/bit

    alex - Réponse

    Question - when putting the new battery back into the case, do we need to remove old glue/add new glue, use no glue at all, or place the battery in and then reheat to melt the old glue so that it will adhere to the new battery? Thanks!

    chal740 - Réponse

    What is the part number for this battery, or where can I find it?

    dfreeman110 -

    I wish to ask the same question.

    vbivanov -

    My adhesive didn't have enough tack to hold the battery in. I just reassembled without it and can't hear the batteries moving, but I have the rubber grommets and not screws as MarkB mentioned. Fo future repairers, I'd recommend buying some nonpermanent two sided tape just so you have the option to fasten it in.

    Vince Cipriani -

    I wish they would find another way of securing the battery, this is ridiculous.

    brian whittle - Réponse

    On each 'corner' of the frame that surrounds the two centre batteries, rather than 'plastic screws' mentioned by adriendavernas there are 'domed' rubber grommets. These presumably rest against the inside of the bottom cover when it is fitted thus supporting the batteries. As there were no screws underneath in these 4 positions, there is no need to remove these grommets. Agree with alex re: removing the extra T5 screw on the power board.

    MarkB - Réponse

    After destroying the adhesive which secures the batteries (bad technique or lack of patience in my effort) what is recommended to secure the batteries when reassembling?

    maxB - Réponse

    The iFixit Battery had adhesive pre-applied. plenty of 3M Tissue Tape

    Rhys Goode -

    I only had the single far right screw to remove.

    barak - Réponse

    My replacement A1582 battery actually had holes for the screws, though my original A1582 battery only had the 'domed' rubber grommets. Anyways, putting in the OEM A1582 battery without anything in the holes worked ok.

    Srini Seetharaman - Réponse

    I wanted to put the rubber grommets on the new battery, so I used tweezers to get them back through the holes on the new battery

    Dallin Christensen - Réponse

    My battery replacement came with 4 rubber grommets pre-installed, so perhaps this is no longer necessary

    hamiltont -

    Can somebody tell me what kind of screws I would need to secure the new battery? I would like to put screws into the screwholes left open by those rubber grommets.

    thekryz - Réponse

    3,7 mm is the lengh I gues. How thick are they?

    Wanna know how I can search for replacement screws cause I lost the originales.

    Chris Shine - Réponse

  20. Le dissolvant liquide d'adhésif fourni dans votre kit de remplacement de batterie iFixit  peut affecter le revêtement anti-réfléchissant de l'écran de votre MacBook Pro.
    • Le dissolvant liquide d'adhésif fourni dans votre kit de remplacement de batterie iFixit peut affecter le revêtement anti-réfléchissant de l'écran de votre MacBook Pro.

    • Pour protéger votre écran, placez une feuille de papier d'aluminium entre l'écran et le clavier et laissez-la pendant la réparation.

  21. Si vous disposez d'un kit de batterie iFixit avec un dissolvant liquide pour adhésif, il est temps de l'inaugurer. Sinon, si vous suivez la méthode chaude avec iOpener, ignorez les trois étapes suivantes.
    • Si vous disposez d'un kit de batterie iFixit avec un dissolvant liquide pour adhésif, il est temps de l'inaugurer.

    • Sinon, si vous suivez la méthode chaude avec iOpener, ignorez les trois étapes suivantes.

    • Le dissolvant pour adhésif iFixit contient de l'acétone, une substance légèrement irritante pour la peau et les yeux.

    • Protégez vos yeux pendant que vous manipulez le dissolvant. (Une paire de lunettes de protection est incluse dans votre kit.)

    • Ne portez pas de lentilles sans mettre de lunettes de protection.

    • Des gants de protection sont également inclus dans le kit. Si vous craignez de vous irriter la peau, enfilez-les.

  22. Retirez le bouchon en caoutchouc noir de votre bouteille de dissolvant. Tournez pour desserrer ou retirer le bouchon applicateur du flacon avant de couper l'embout de l'applicateur. Ceci descellera le flacon et permettra à la pression de s'égaliser avant de couper l'embout de l'applicateur. Si vous sautez cette étape, le dissolvant peut gicler de façon inattendue lorsque vous coupez la pointe.
    • Retirez le bouchon en caoutchouc noir de votre bouteille de dissolvant.

    • Tournez pour desserrer ou retirer le bouchon applicateur du flacon avant de couper l'embout de l'applicateur.

    • Ceci descellera le flacon et permettra à la pression de s'égaliser avant de couper l'embout de l'applicateur. Si vous sautez cette étape, le dissolvant peut gicler de façon inattendue lorsque vous coupez la pointe.

    • Utilisez des ciseaux pour couper la pointe scellée de l'applicateur.

    • Si vous coupez près de la pointe étroite, vous aurez un meilleur contrôle pour appliquer le dissolvant en petites quantités.

    • Tournez et fermez le bouchon de la bouteille en toute sécurité avant de continuer.

    Air can tilted upside down to freeze the adhesive works very well also. I just used this method today to pull a battery.

    aadeshina - Réponse

    @aadeshina - That’s an excellent suggestion. I took your advice, and tried it with a can of MG Chemicals “403C Super Cold Spray”, which I had on hand for other electronics work. It worked very well — it froze the adhesive to the point where it was quite easy to work the plastic iFixit cards under the batteries, and pry them loose.

    I like this freeze technique much better than the volatile, flammable, risky solvent approach for removing the batteries. I did however find the solvent useful for softening and removing the residual adhesive remaining in the case after the old batteries were removed.

    There are many brands of aerosol freeze sprays available on Amazon, DigiKey, Mouser, etc.

    doubleclutch - Réponse

    As above, Another solution to remove the batteries, (Maybe not environmentally friendly): I removed the Logic board and related components to protect them and took a can of compressed air (the kind you buy at office stores for cleaning printers and such) Invert it and use the included straw to direct the propellant (which is extremely cold under the batteries. The adhesive holding the batteries in becomes brittle and u can just pop them out with medium force using a wide putty knife. Took me 3 min to do.

    JVerdonck - Réponse

  23. Appliquez quelques gouttes de dissolvant de façon uniforme sous le bord de la cellule de batterie la plus à droite.
    • Appliquez quelques gouttes de dissolvant de façon uniforme sous le bord de la cellule de batterie la plus à droite.

    • Vous n'avez pas besoin d'en utiliser beaucoup. La petite bouteille contient plus du double de la quantité de dissolvant nécessaire pour décoller toutes les cellules de la batterie.

    • Attendez 2 à 3 minutes que le dissolvant liquide pénètre sous la cellule, puis passez à l'étape suivante.

    • Utilisez plus de dissolvant si nécessaire, mais n'appliquez pas plus de quelques gouttes à la fois. L'utilisation d'une trop grande quantité peut permettre au dissolvant de se frayer un chemin jusqu'à l'arrière de votre clavier et risque de l'endommager.

    I managed to remove the battery without the adhesive by using the thread technique. More info in this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fupkPz55... . Just make sure you have someone to help you and hold the laptop in place for you.

    driesverfaillie - Réponse

    Thank you very much! This is an absolute win technique

    Денис Медведев -

    I agree that this worked much better. A few suggestions for others:

    - one type of thread that works very well is fishing line. While you can use monofilament (the clear plastic), if you can get the braided fishing line you will find it is extremely thin and super strong and works very well for this

    - string pulled tightly can cut more than just the adhesive, so be careful what you allow the string to rub against while you are pulling it. I can easily cut into another cable or the battery

    - I found that gloves (not latex, big gardening or construction gloves) helped me use string without needing to go “ow” every few seconds from your hand hurting. I have some gloves with nice grip and good hand protection, I would get the string positioned, put on the gloves, and start pulling. It worked fantastically

    I was able to remove the battery easily with the string method, and i did not remove the speakers to do so. However, when I went to seat the new battery I chose to remove the speakers to make it easier to place

    hamiltont -

    For easier removal I used a combination of heat from a hot water bottle and solvent.

    ip_leyland - Réponse

    I used waxed dental floss (not sure whether the ‘waxed’ is important), which worked like a charm. I cuts through the tape much easier than seen in the linked YouTube video linked above. Each battery cell was loosened within 5-10 seconds. It worked amazingly well, and taking out the old batteries proved to be no challenge at all.

    Gerd - Réponse

    +1 for dental floss - used it too and managed to cut without any effort.

    JX Low -

  24. Si vous n'avez pas de dissolvant liquide, utilisez un iOpener chaud pour chauffer et ramollir l'adhésif fixant la batterie au boîtier supérieur, puis faites délicatement levier à cet endroit. Recouvrez la moitié des deux cellules de batterie de droite avec l'iOpener chaud.
    • Si vous n'avez pas de dissolvant liquide, utilisez un iOpener chaud pour chauffer et ramollir l'adhésif fixant la batterie au boîtier supérieur, puis faites délicatement levier à cet endroit.

    • Recouvrez la moitié des deux cellules de batterie de droite avec l'iOpener chaud.

    • Au bout d'une minute, refaites chauffer l'iOpener et déposez-le sur l'autre moitié des cellules de batterie de droite.

    I did not have an iOpener. I did not fancy using a heat gun on the batteries either so I used two flat metal spudgers to prise them off the body of the mac book. I hit the spudgers with a small hammer.

    Alex Birkett - Réponse

    I popped the freaking iopener in the microwave following this instruction. Said to heat for 30 secs put on for a minute then reheat after that minute. Then read on the iopener that I shouldn't heat more the once unless after two minutes. Just wonderful.

    Jennifer Myer - Réponse

    I used a sock filled with rice and it worked exactly the same. Microwaved it for 2 minutes (hot enough to barely hold) and set it on the batteries as above for 2 minutes.

    Then I reheated it for a minute and opened up the laptop, and slide my DYI iOpener under so it was directly under the batteries (across the trackpad portion of the laptop). This worked great because the heat went straight thru the aluminum and softened the adhesive. I ended up letting the screen hang over the edge of the table while I pried the batteries out.

    barak - Réponse

    This heating with the iOpener took me forever. I tried my fair share of heating followed by nudging slowly with a credit card 1 mm at a time. Finally pried it off after 30 mins.

    Srini Seetharaman - Réponse

  25. Insérez une carte en plastique entre la cellule de batterie la plus à droite et le boîtier supérieur et coupez l'adhésif entre les deux. Lors de cette procédure, veillez à n'endommager aucune des cellules de batterie avec vos outils. Une batterie lithium-ion endommagée peut laisser échapper des substances chimiques dangereuses et/ou prendre feu. Utilisez seulement des outils en plastique.
    • Insérez une carte en plastique entre la cellule de batterie la plus à droite et le boîtier supérieur et coupez l'adhésif entre les deux.

    • Lors de cette procédure, veillez à n'endommager aucune des cellules de batterie avec vos outils. Une batterie lithium-ion endommagée peut laisser échapper des substances chimiques dangereuses et/ou prendre feu. Utilisez seulement des outils en plastique.

    • Si vous suivez la méthode de l'iOpener chaud et que la batterie résiste beaucoup, arrêtez et refaites chauffer avec l'iOpener la zone sur laquelle vous travaillez.

    In addition to using the wheat bag/iOpener to loosen the batteries, I found it useful each time I inserted the plastic card under the batteries to give the card a 'wipe' with isopropyl alcohol to ensure that it didn't stick to the adhesive holding the batteries down. it also presumably eases the glue away from the batteries somewhat.

    MarkB - Réponse

    Do the same tools and steps work on a MacBook Pro 15" late 2015 model?

    Sean - Réponse

    Heat can be dangerous to Li-Ion batteries, no???

    Alex - Réponse

    Excessive heat can be dangerous, but the iOpener is designed to never get hot enough to cause permanent damage. Using a heat gun or hot plate could be dangerous, but the iOpener method is the safest one we know of =)

    Sam Goldheart -

    I found it helpful to use some dental floss to help loosen each cell and then pry the rest off with the card

    Dallin Christensen - Réponse

  26. Faites levier avec la carte en plastique pour séparer la cellule de batterie la plus à droite du boîtier supérieur. Faites levier avec la carte en plastique pour séparer la cellule de batterie la plus à droite du boîtier supérieur.
    • Faites levier avec la carte en plastique pour séparer la cellule de batterie la plus à droite du boîtier supérieur.

  27. Répétez la procédure pour décoller la cellule adjacente : Appliquez une petite quantité de dissolvant liquide sous la cellule de la batterie et attendez 2 à 3 minutes qu'il pénètre et que l'adhésif ramollisse. Ou bien refaites chauffer la zone avec votre iOpener, si nécessaire.
    • Répétez la procédure pour décoller la cellule adjacente :

    • Appliquez une petite quantité de dissolvant liquide sous la cellule de la batterie et attendez 2 à 3 minutes qu'il pénètre et que l'adhésif ramollisse.

    • Ou bien refaites chauffer la zone avec votre iOpener, si nécessaire.

    • Insérez une carte en plastique sur environ 2,5 cm de long entre la cellule de batterie et le boîtier supérieur, et faites lentement levier pour les décoller de l'adhésif.

  28. Laissez pour l'instant votre carte en plastique sous les deux cellules de batterie de droite pour les empêcher de recoller au boîtier supérieur. Si vous utilisez un iOpener, refaites-le chauffer et reposez-le, cette fois sur les cellules de batterie de gauche. Laissez à nouveau l'iOpener agir dans chaque position pendant une minute environ et refaites-le chauffer entre, pour que chaque moitié des cellules de batterie de gauche soit chauffée.
    • Laissez pour l'instant votre carte en plastique sous les deux cellules de batterie de droite pour les empêcher de recoller au boîtier supérieur.

    • Si vous utilisez un iOpener, refaites-le chauffer et reposez-le, cette fois sur les cellules de batterie de gauche.

    • Laissez à nouveau l'iOpener agir dans chaque position pendant une minute environ et refaites-le chauffer entre, pour que chaque moitié des cellules de batterie de gauche soit chauffée.

  29. Répétez la procédure ci-dessus pour décoller les deux cellules de gauche du boîtier supérieur. N'oubliez pas d'appliquer une petite quantité de dissolvant sur chaque élément de la batterie, puis attendez 2 à 3 minutes qu'il pénètre et que l'adhésif ramollisse. Utilisez une seconde carte en plastique pour séparer les deux cellules de gauche et le boîtier supérieur.
    • Répétez la procédure ci-dessus pour décoller les deux cellules de gauche du boîtier supérieur.

    • N'oubliez pas d'appliquer une petite quantité de dissolvant sur chaque élément de la batterie, puis attendez 2 à 3 minutes qu'il pénètre et que l'adhésif ramollisse.

    • Utilisez une seconde carte en plastique pour séparer les deux cellules de gauche et le boîtier supérieur.

  30. Laissez la seconde carte dans le coin entre les deux cellules de gauche.
    • Laissez la seconde carte dans le coin entre les deux cellules de gauche.

    • Pour les étapes suivante, servez-vous d'une troisième carte ou de la carte utilisée à droite. L'adhésif du coin droit devrait être suffisamment sec/refroidi pour que les cellules puissent être soulevées facilement en cas de besoin.

  31. Pour séparer l'adhésif fixant les deux dernières cellules centrales de la batterie, appliquez quelques gouttes supplémentaires de dissolvant liquide (ou votre iOpener) sur chaque cellule. N'utiliser qu'une petite quantité de dissolvant, puisque le trackpad se trouve sous cette partie de la batterie.
    • Pour séparer l'adhésif fixant les deux dernières cellules centrales de la batterie, appliquez quelques gouttes supplémentaires de dissolvant liquide (ou votre iOpener) sur chaque cellule.

    • N'utiliser qu'une petite quantité de dissolvant, puisque le trackpad se trouve sous cette partie de la batterie.

    • Il peut être utile de surélever un côté de votre MacBook Pro de quelques centimètres afin que le dissolvant coule dans la bonne direction, sous les cellules de batterie. Prenez un livre stable ou un bloc de mousse pour soutenir votre Mac pendant que vous travaillez.

    • Insérez la carte en plastique sur environ 2,5 cm de long entre la cellule au milieu à gauche et le boîtier supérieur pour faire céder l'adhésif entre la cellule et le boîtier.

    My laptop had a strip over these center batteries. I had to remove that before getting the center batteries off.

    Srini Seetharaman - Réponse

    My plastic cards were hitting a black trackpad backing. I thought this was the adhesive not coming off. I also didn’t want to harm the battery and didn’t bring the card up enough.

    I found out by going through one of the side batteries, but could have just raised the tip of the card very slightly.

    Cameron Malek - Réponse

    I recommend you do not use the liquid adhesive remover for the middle battery pods. These do not rest nicely in their own “tray” like the two parts on the left and right. Consequently, it is very easy to apply too much liquid, allowing the excess to run into your trackpad and logic board. Even though the liquid dries quickly, it does leave behind a little residue. The result from my experience was a slightly faulty connection for my screen, causing random pixel flickers in dark spaces on my screen. Use the floss method found elsewhere online. It is much more difficult to get out but does not risk damaging your computer.

    Andrew Jensen - Réponse

  32. Retirez la carte et insérez-la sur environ 2,5 cm de long entre la cellule au milieu à droite et le boîtier supérieur pour faire céder l'adhésif entre la cellule et le boîtier. Retirez la carte et insérez-la sur environ 2,5 cm de long entre la cellule au milieu à droite et le boîtier supérieur pour faire céder l'adhésif entre la cellule et le boîtier.
    • Retirez la carte et insérez-la sur environ 2,5 cm de long entre la cellule au milieu à droite et le boîtier supérieur pour faire céder l'adhésif entre la cellule et le boîtier.

  33. Maintenant, les cellules extérieures sont décollées et les deux du milieu devraient offrir que peu de résistance. Si ce n'est pas le cas, retournez en arrière et délogez complètement les quatre cellules extérieures du boîtier supérieur. Faites levier sur les deux cellules du milieu pour décoller les derniers restes d'adhésif et soulevez la batterie hors de l'appareil.
    • Maintenant, les cellules extérieures sont décollées et les deux du milieu devraient offrir que peu de résistance. Si ce n'est pas le cas, retournez en arrière et délogez complètement les quatre cellules extérieures du boîtier supérieur.

    • Faites levier sur les deux cellules du milieu pour décoller les derniers restes d'adhésif et soulevez la batterie hors de l'appareil.

    I found that gentle application from a heat gun works well enough to soften the adhesive. Use a plastic card to help as you go. Use caution not to over heat anything.

    John Lerefebvre - Réponse

  34. Retirez la batterie. Avant d'installer votre nouvelle batterie, ôtez tous les résidus de colle du boîtier du MacBook Pro.
    • Retirez la batterie.

    • Avant d'installer votre nouvelle batterie, ôtez tous les résidus de colle du boîtier du MacBook Pro.

    • Avec un peu de chance, vous arriverez à enlever toutes les bandes d'adhésif avec vos doigts.

    • Sinon, imprégnez-les d'un peu de dissolvant, attendez 2 à 3 minutes et raclez-les à l'aide d'un outil d'ouverture en plastique ou un des autres outils de votre kit. Il s'agit d'un travail un peu pénible qui nécessite de la patience.

    • Épongez tous les résidus de dissolvant et laissez votre MacBook Pro sécher à l'air pendant quelques minutes.

    • La batterie de rechange incluse dans votre kit iFixit est déjà munie de bandes adhésives. Vérifiez bien l'emplacement de la batterie, puis enlevez le film recouvrant l'adhésif et mettez chaque cellule à sa place en enfonçant bien. En cas de films/doublures supplémentaires, absents sur votre batterie d'origine, retirez-les maintenant.

    • Calibrez votre nouvelle batterie avant de l'utiliser : Chargez-la à 100%, puis laissez-la charger encore au moins deux heures. Utilisez votre appareil normalement jusqu'à ce qu'il s'éteint à cause d'une batterie vide. N'oubliez pas de sauvegarder votre travail à temps. Attendez au moins 5 heures, puis rechargez la batterie à 100% sans interruption.

    • Si vous remarquez quelque chose d'inhabituel ou des problèmes après avoir installé votre nouvelle batterie, réinitialisez le contrôleur de gestion du système (SMC) de votre Mac.

    RECOMMENDATION: The battery connector and associated screw are critical when considering battery alignment. Also don’t forget the left and right speaker assemblies when aligning the two small outer cells. I didn’t consider these and had issues.

    Also, keep the transparent top film on the battery to keep the cells aligned with respect to each other, and always support all the cells if handling upside down.

    Cameron Malek - Réponse

    I agree, if you don’t reinstall the speaker assemblies before installing the battery, they may be impossible to put back in after the battery has adhered

    Dallin Christensen -

    Anyone reconcile the different instructions for batter calibration? Inside battery package is a business card that says drain below 10% then charge uninterrupted to 100%. That is completely different then above: “Calibrate your newly installed battery: charge it to 100%, and keep charging it for at least 2 more hours. Unplug and use it normally to drain the battery. When you see the low battery warning, save your work, and keep your laptop on until it goes to sleep due to low battery. Wait at least 5 hours, then charge your laptop uninterrupted to 100%.”

    ryan - Réponse

    The longer calibration method detailed in the guide is correct. I believe the printed cards are due for an update.

    Jeff Suovanen -

Conclusion

Pour remonter votre appareil, suivez ces instructions dans l'ordre inverse.

200 autre(s) ont terminé cette réparation.

Merci à ces traducteurs :

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Sam Goldheart

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62 commentaires

Great thanks to the author for this flawless guide! I've just finished the replacement with this guide step by step, it's really useful and considerable! Now I'm so happy to see the battery health comes back to 100%! So relieving! Thanks again!

HU CHEN - Réponse

I'm having an issue with replacing the wifi antenna on a a1502 MacBook, because the socket for the wifi connector from the antenna came off and I am not sure how to reattach it properly because it gives me a "No Hardware Detected" issue. How do I take apart the screen to remove the antenna? Do I need to deal with heating glue to remove the screen cover?

Bobby Quinn - Réponse

I have a 13" Mac book pro that sustained water damage, the laptop continued towoork bit the battery never gained charge and slowly depleted even on mains power, once the battery reached 0% it no longer powers on regardless of mains power, I think it's an issue with the IC would a battery replacement fix this?

Rich searle - Réponse

I did this. Took me about 1 hour. The iopener required more than 30s for me to heat up, but I got it done. My macbook was damaged because of a wine spill. Not sure how the battery got damaged as a result, as there appeared to be no liquid there, but... That was it.

Also, a bunch of the steps are not necessary, if you are careful. You do need to get the speakers out, but you don't need to do some of the other stuff. I skipped 7-12 and 15, instead folding over the speakers carefully, without detaching them.

howieu - Réponse

The procedure worked perfect. Thanks. It wasn't very difficult really, the only challenge was to get the old batteries loose from the adhesive. Warming up the batteries and working with the card is the solution.

Ib Alstrup - Réponse

Thanks to the author for making a really excellent guide! To remove the glued batteries I used an ifixit putty knife and heated it with a miniature blowtorch. Then I placed the heated ifixit putty knife underneath the batteries which melted the glue and enabled me to lift the batteries out.

Philip Kapp - Réponse

Thanks for the guide. Very easy to follow and execute without missing any critical steps that could have caused damage for a first timer. It was a real bear getting through the adhesive, but patience persevered. Two (sore) thumbs up.

Aaron Lorton - Réponse

For the second time all is fine, delivery time and everything is working well. I replaced the battery and the display on my MacBook Pro a1502 following the tutorials. The most difficult part for me was removing the old the battery .

Thx

david - Réponse

What happens when you put the new battery in? Do you have to put more glue to get the new battery to stick or is it already pretty sticky? Do you even need to worry about putting more glue/adhesive stuff?

Pae Yung - Réponse

Quick delivery ;)

Very useful guide. Everything is working great again. The hardest part was removing the old battery.

Thanks

Jaeger - Réponse

Thank you very mutch, work`s perfect!

Stefan R - Réponse

Fantastic guide guys - well done ! I bought a new battery on eBay and would have been in a lot of trouble without this guide. For what it's worth -there seem to be a lot of questions about glue. I bought a genuine Apple battery, which came complete with glue strips ready to go. Once I removed the old battery and glue strips, I cleaned it up with isopropyl alcohol and stuck the new battery to the clean surface without a hitch.

Martin Gray - Réponse

Very useful guide. Thanks a lot. The mac works now perfect.

office - Réponse

Very useful guide.

office - Réponse

Thank you very mutch, work`s perfect

himdad - Réponse

First guide that I've used from your site. Very simple to follow making the process extremely stress free. Couldn't be more grateful! Thank you!!

Gavin Seamer - Réponse

A grand success! Thanks so much! This guide and the battery kit were perfect.

Sage Freter - Réponse

was your keyboard working after?

Herman -

I installed the battery no problems, but now my keyboard is nonresponsive. Please help!

Herman - Réponse

Take a close look at the keyboard cable ribbon and connector—is there any damage? Try re-seating the cable if you haven't already—flip up the small locking bar on the connector, gently pull the cable out, reinsert it and lock it down.

Jeff Suovanen -

I would add that approaching 2 central battery packs from side is easier (at least on my Mac). Otherwise, great directions for battery removal. Alignment of replacement battery pack, with adhesive covers removed, is somewhat challenging, but I'm back in business.

Dean Livelybrooks - Réponse

Great success with this guide. Some of the steps weren't necessary (i/o board cable removal and speaker cable removal) but all in all it's a fantastic guide. Saved me $$ and only took an hour instead of having it at the repair shop for 5 days!

barak - Réponse

MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Late 2013 Battery Replacement Chinese translation check now!If there is anything need to be improved or revise,welcome to contact me,thanks:)

笑得像个300斤的孩子 - Réponse

Fantastic guide!! Like others mentioned, I skipped steps 7-12 and 15. I used the liquid adhesive remover and was just careful with where I applied it and where it went.

It did take me longer than others, about 2.5 hours.

Thank you so much for this! A repair show wanted $400 for battery and labor, and wanted to keep the computer for a week!

Jonathon Haradon - Réponse

I’ve used a thin string to remove batteries. It went smooth and I was finished in about an 1hr. Also, I skipped some of the steps, just unscrewed speakers to the side without removing cables. Tools provided with battery are amazing, especially for this one and done situation. iFixit saved me some money. Guide is very easy to follow. Thanks guys!

Marinko Marinko - Réponse

With heat instead of solvents, Barak is correct in skipping the speaker removal. Be careful in fitting where the wires cross to the two side batteries under the front bumpers. Great fix kit from ifixit!!

tremm298 - Réponse

Thanks so much for putting this together, it worked like a charm and you’ve saved me a ton of money. I appreciate it!

Henry Briscoe - Réponse

Thanks, it worked but after I was done 2 keyboard keys came off because of the adhesive remover now idk what to do

abbas jassim - Réponse

This guide made everything easy peasy, lemon squeezy! Lol. Easy to follow and love the pic by pic. Thank you.

Alex Valenzuela - Réponse

Easy to follow. Glad I got the full toolkit and a quality battery.

jbell303 - Réponse

Just finished this. Thank you very much for this detailed guide. I used isopropyl alcohol (IPA) against the glue and it worked really well with some patience and lots of tactical tilting. I would still go with the iFixit package if it was shipped to my country, because it’s probably a bit easier and because iFixit is awesome and cool.

While this certainly isn’t a repair for a beginner I wouldn’t say it’s so hard. It’s really only hard because of the glue removal and the careful prying of the various connectors. The rest is just loosening screws and keeping them in order.

Karl Birkir Flosason - Réponse

Completed this tutorial step by step, I bought extra toolkit just to insure I had all tools - 150E for everything VS 210E from apple + 1 week or more without a computer. Took me about 40 minutes - 50 minutes to do everything, and it was fun. So totally worth it! Hope this battery lasts for a long time

Claude M - Réponse

This guide is definitely missing information. If you aren’t extremely careful, you will get acetone into your keyboard and completely ruin it. There is no warning whatsoever that this can happen.

jeremybillheimer - Réponse

This happened to me. The acetone somehow managed to get in contact with the underside of the keyboard and I ended up replacing my whole keyboard. What was initially an affordable way to change my battery ended up being expensive. Next time, I’ll just take it to Apple Genius.

Herman -

@Herman, yeah my feelings exactly. Supposedly Apple replaces the entire top case in the battery service, so I’m hoping it only costs $200. But that makes my $100 repair cost $300. Not worth it.

jeremybillheimer -

The keyboard is underneath the logic board, not the battery. I can see how this might happen if you aren’t careful about where you put the solvent and/or you use way too much, but I wouldn’t fault the guide for that.

Jeff Suovanen -

@Jeff, there is zero warning whatsoever that this can even happen, and its happened to a number of other customers. What is the point of the guide if it doesn’t warn you how to avoid the extremely expensive damage that can occur?

jeremybillheimer -

The debacle continues:

1. You can destroy your keyboard while doing this repair, and the guide does not adequately warn you of this possibility.

2. The keyboard is one of the most expensive and difficult components to replace on this model.

3. While iFixit advertises the replacement battery as OEM, Apple will not recognize it as such. If you then bring it to an Apple store to see if they will repair it, they will flat out refuse to repair your machine. Again, another negative outcome of this repair that it fails to warn about.

Considering the Apple replacement is $200, it is simply not worth the risk to your machine (and the future option to ever have it repaired by Apple again) to save $100. It is reckless, disingenuous, and actively harms the right to repair movement to fail to warn users of this kind of extreme risk.

jeremybillheimer -

There’s a warning in the introduction at the top of the guide to take care where you put the solvent. I know that’s zero consolation and it always sucks to have a repair go sideways on you; I’m just not sure what more can be done at this point. I’ve done a number of MBP batteries with this procedure and had no issues so far, following the procedure closely. If you haven’t already, you may want to reach out to the customer support folks to see about a refund on your kit, so you’re at least not out the cost of that.

Jeff Suovanen -

@Jeff, I’ve already reached out and indicated my frustration, and yeah, a refund is about the best I can hope for at this point to at least offset the additional repairs necessary. I was very careful with the solvent, but it is not at all obvious how it is even possible to get it into the keyboard (which you can’t even see without removing the logic board). I don’t think the guide is clear enough on how to avoid this particular damage, and judging by the comments here, a number of others have had similar problems. Keep in mind, the guide is for people who haven’t done this before and are probably only going to do it one time. They don’t have the specialized knowledge that comes from working on Macbooks frequently. It has to be as specific as possible to the point of hand holding and even warning that you are probably better off just paying the extra $100 to make sure it is done with no extra risk.

Additionally, the guide makes no mention that the replacement battery will result in your machine being banished from Apple’s repair depots. I think that is critical information that a potential buyer needs in order to make a fully informed purchase decision. You can’t claim a battery as OEM when that OEM will disavow it.

jeremybillheimer -

Hi Jeremy,

Sorry to hear of your situation. I have replied to the email you sent our Support team. Thank you for sharing your experience, and we hope this does not deter you from performing repairs in the future.

All the best,

Kadan Sharpe -

Bought the iFixit kit sold here, followed these instructions to the letter, everything went smooth. Used the acetone based solvent method, the only really fiddly bit was getting all the old adhesive dissolved and mopped out. Battery arrived with a 55% charge, now going to watch a movie on battery power to run it down…

impuse - Réponse

Completed the swap out with no problems. Only tedious bit is chiseling off the old adhesive from the case after removing the battery. But if you soak it in solvent (per the instructions) and then lift up at the edge you can use your fingers and pull all the goo up in one satisfying motion.

Thanks to iFixit for not having to give even more to Apple Inc.

Tim Goodsall - Réponse

Instructions were perfect. And thanks to barak as well for the ‘rice in a sock’ idea.

desturtz - Réponse

Hey all, i followed the instruction and it worked pretty well for me. I just have noticed, once my macbook started again, that it doesnt find any documents, applications or any other file via spotlight function and via the search function in the finder anymore. i tried already to reset the spotlight search by adding and deleting HD to the privacy of the spolight search, but that didnt work for me. does anybody know how to solve this problem. I try to avoid to set up my mac via recovery disc.

thanks, pete

peter.anton - Réponse

This worked for me!

Open Terminal

Show hidden files in finder with defaults write com.apple.finder AppleShowAllFiles YES

Hold the 'Option/alt' key, then right click on the Finder icon in the dock and click Relaunch

Navigate in finder to the root volume (Macintosh HD)

Delete .metadata_never_index

Delete immediately in Trash

In Terminal: sudo mdutil -i on /

peter.anton -

took me 45 minutes and I did not purchase any of the tools or fluid, just used lolly sticks and patience, Brough the battery from china for £30 with the special screwdrivers needed.

james essex - Réponse

Thank you Sam, again. I replaced this battery yesterday in my son’s computer. It was my “practice” before daring to touch my own computer. It went without a glitch. This is a clear and comprehensive guide. I am a 67 yo retired accountant and had never done anything like this before. Today I did my computer (early 2013) again with no problems. I feel empowered!

maria longo - Réponse

Thank you, just changed the battery using ifixit’s kit. Only problem i have is that i have tried to follow the instruction to calibrate the battery however, when my mac got to 15% it went to sleep and I had to connect the power cord. I tried to disconnect it again and it went again to sleep. So I can’t really follow the calibration guide since the computer doesn’t turn off because it runs out of battery, instead it goes to sleep.

Max Ime - Réponse

Reseted the smc seems to work fine now. Also, i’ve used a different method to replace the battery which seemed much easier to me. I have used a string as a saw instead of the provided cards. I was able to smoothly and quickly remove each cell

Max Ime -

It was pretty easy to follow the guide; everything went well.

Zsolt Safrany - Réponse

Hi all. I changed the battery, most difficult was remove battery. When I start the laptop I noticed the trackpad doesn’t work, fun is working quickly ( since first minute and even cold) and everything run slowly. Do you know what can I do?. many thanks

Niko Las - Réponse

Worked perfectly! However looking at the design of the laptop looks like it’s not necessary to remove all the components like the guide tell you to do, the battery can be disconnected at step 2!

is there a reason why everything must be removed before removing the battery? Is it the danger of acetone affecting the electronic components?

Amritaansh Verma - Réponse

I just replaced the battery, It was a &&^&^$^ anxiety driven process. The screws that came with the battery were the hardest to deal with but I kinda said &&^& it and left it alone. The acetone is terrifying but with paper towels and working very slowly it was possible to get the battery out, the glue out and not experience any issues. Keyboard is fine, I’m waiting now to charge then kill the replacement. Will update if I have any issues.

Diana Gutierrez - Réponse

Akkuwechsel ging mit der Anleitung und dem iFixit-Akku-Kit (MacBook Pro 13" Retina late 2013) sehr gut, habe zusätzlich zum Aceton “gewachste Zahnseide” zum Lösen der Akkusteile benutzt.

Battery change went very well with the manual and the iFixit battery kit (MacBook Pro 13 "Retina late 2013), in addition to the acetone "waxed dental floss" used to release the battery parts.

Markus Illian - Réponse

Hello, my battery is completely dead. It’s on 0% and unable to be charged. (Charger is working properly) According to battery health apps, it has 0 mAH. The status of the battery is replace now. When the status was on “service battery” the macbook was performing normally. But now it’s extremely slow. Should i do something before trying to install a new battery?

Kristian - Réponse

@alphaumi I’d replace that battery ASAP.

Jeff Suovanen -

I have just replaced my battery. It was way easier than i have expected, but one should follow the steps carefully. With the new battery the laptop is way faster as well!

Kristian -

Brilliant - done in 50 mins ‘con calma’ saved £450 on price quoted by apple.

Oliver Craig - Réponse

Thank you for this excellent replacement kit and superb guide. I followed the steps without any problems and they match the procedure without mistakes. I recovered the battery capacity.

Great job!

Ricardo Cortes - Réponse

I used a hairdryer and credit cards to get the adhesive loose. Not saying you should use a hairdryer, just saying it worked for me just fine.

Pentalobe + torx + hairdryer + credit cards (or nylon string) is all you need.

For some reason my battery didn’t have any screws except for the one near the connector which was strange but whatevs. The adhesive seems to be holding well enough.

Moe Poe - Réponse

Replaced it in about 2 hours. Getting the old batteries out was by far the hardest part, especially since they were already swollen and I wanted to be extra careful.

New battery reports 0 cycles and 100% health as expected. Tools were perfect. I did use the string method for the 2 center batteries. Although it would’ve worked with the solvent too.

iFixit is the best. I hope this site exists forever and will continue supporting them.

Thank you!

Joni Van Roost - Réponse

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