Introduction
Consultez ce tutoriel pour remplacer la batterie enduite de colle de votre MacBook Pro à l'aide d'un kit iFixit avec dissolvant. Ce dernier contribue à ramollir la colle qui fixe la vieille batterie et facilite son retrait.
Le dissolvant iFixit pour adhésif est inflammable. Effectuez cette procédure dans un endroit bien ventilé. Ne fumez pas et ne travaillez pas à côté d'une flamme nue.
Pour minimiser les risques, allumez votre MacBook et laissez la batterie se vider complètement avant de vous lancer. Percer accidentellement une batterie lithium-ion chargée risque de déclencher un incendie dangereux incontrôlable. Si votre batterie semble boursouflée ou gonflée, faites extrêmement attention.
Remarque : le dissolvant servant à dissoudre l'adhésif de la batterie risque d'endommager certains composants en plastique. Respectez toutes les instructions et faites attention aux endroits où vous appliquez le dissolvant pour adhésif.
Ce dont vous avez besoin
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Allumez votre Mac et lancez Terminal.
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Copiez-collez ou tapez la commande suivante dans Terminal :
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sudo nvram AutoBoot=%00
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Cliquez sur la touche [return]. Si nécessaire, saisissez votre mot de passe d'admin et cliquez sur la touche [return]. Remarque : il est possible que cette touche porte le symbole ⏎ ou l'inscription "enter".
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sudo nvram AutoBoot=%03
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Servez-vous d'un tournevis Pentalobe P5 pour retirer les six vis fixant le boîtier inférieur :
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Deux vis de 6,2 mm
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Quatre vis de 3,4 mm
Sur le mien A1708 EMC3164 j’ai 4 vis de 6,2 (les coins) et 2 vis de 3,4 celles au milieu en bas
Ce tutoriel n’est pas dans la bonne section !
c’est le 13” avec touch bar et non celui avec les touches de fonction .
l’autre tuto nommé “écran complet” est le bon
Bonjour Vincent,
Si vous cherchez le même tutoriel pour le MacBook 13” non Touch Bar, le voici : https://fr.ifixit.com/Tutoriel/Remplacem...
Before you start I suggest you get magnifier eyeware as screws and connectors are very small and good lightning are a big PLUS
Completed whole steps in over 4 hours….but worth it. Works back perfect and battery error message is gone….
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Appliquez une ventouse sur le boîtier inférieur, à côté de la partie centrale avant du MacBook Pro.
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Soulevez la poignée de la ventouse pour créer un léger espace entre le boîtier inférieur et le châssis.
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Insérez le coin d'un médiator dans l'espace créé entre le boîtier et le châssis.
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Faites glisser le médiator le long du bord le plus proche, puis de la première moitié du côté du boîtier.
The instruction implies that sliding the pick up to the side of the case releases the clip. This is far from the truth; it takes a pretty strong force to pop the clip open. The plastic pick is a good start, but you need to reach in and pull the middle of that side of the case pretty hard.
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Insérez à nouveau votre médiator sous le bord avant du boîtier inférieur, à côté de l'un des deux trous de vis du milieu.
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Faites fermement pivoter le médiator pour ouvrir le troisième clip qui maintient le boîtier inférieur et le châssis.
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Répétez la manipulation à côté de l'autre trou pour défaire le quatrième clip.
Look at Step 8 pics 2 and 3 to see exactly where the clips are that need to be released. Taking the bottom cover off my MBP took for ever because I didn’t realize the clips were not right around the edges as the wording suggests. Once I realized this, it came off quickly and easily.
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Poussez fermement le boîtier inférieur vers l'avant du MacBook (en l'éloignant de la charnière) pour séparer le dernier des clips qui fixent le boîtier.
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Tirez d'abord un coin, puis l'autre.
On the 2018 model, there are two more clips that need to be popped on the sides in the middle. Then it slides out easily.
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Ôtez le boîtier inférieur.
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Pour réinstaller le boîtier inférieur :
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Mettez-le en place et alignez les clips de fixation près de la charnière de l'écran. Appuyez et faites glisser le boîtier vers la charnière. Il devrait s'arrêter de glisser lorsque les clips s'emboîtent.
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Lorsque les clips coulissants sont complètement emboîtés et que le boîtier inférieur semble correctement aligné, appuyez fermement sur celui-ci pour emboîter les quatre clips cachés en dessous. Vous devriez les sentir et entendre s'enclencher.
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Décollez soigneusement le gros morceau de ruban adhésif qui recouvre le connecteur de la batterie, du côté de la carte mère le plus proche de la batterie.
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Retirez le morceau de ruban adhésif.
Please be VERY careful, I torn up my battery cable and had to replace all the battery.
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Décollez soigneusement le petit morceau de ruban adhésif qui recouvre le connecteur de la nappe de données de la puce de la batterie.
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Servez-vous de la pointe d'une spatule (spudger) pour retourner le petit clapet noir qui fixe la nappe au connecteur.
Be very careful here. I had to repeat this procedure several times on my MacBook Pro to replace faulty monitors. Eventually, after being opened and closed so many times, the small black locking tab came right off of the connector. Now my battery connection is broken and I can only use my MacBook when it is plugged into the power supply. I’m trying to find a way to securely connect the battery cable without this little locking tab (maybe with tape or something), but so far no luck. Does anyone at iFixit have any advice for me?
Like Jamie said, use mass amounts of caution here. The lever is very fragile, and mine came off as well - and I’m not exactly a muscular guy. Without it, the connection cannot be made to the data connector, and the computer will not think that a battery is installed. I had to finagle my connector with tweezers and a spudger back into place (and the picture above makes it look normal sized. The picture lies. It is TINY! We’re talking smaller than a small eyelash tiny), and then used some of the adhesive battery strip to hopefully keep it in place.
The previous comments are not exaggerated. There ain’t NOTHIN’ to that locking bar. I found it helpful to zoom in with my phone to work on it. It really requires no force to move, I imagine the tape is there to hold it down.
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Déconnectez la batterie en soulevant délicatement le connecteur d'alimentation de la batterie avec une spatule.
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Soulevez le connecteur de façon à ce qu'il ne risque pas de toucher sa prise. Un contact accidentel pendant la réparation pourrait endommager votre MacBook Pro.
Dies ist kein Stecker sondern eine Kontaktplatte, die nur leicht angehoben werden muss. Dann am besten mit etwas Tesafilm isolieren.
(Translation for myself and others; Thanks for the nice tip by the way!) This is not a plug but a contact plate that only needs to be lifted slightly. Then it is best to isolate with some scotch tape.
S Woo -
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Prenez un tournevis Torx T3 pour retirer les deux vis de 1,8 mm qui fixent le cache du connecteur de la nappe du trackpad.
You should use T4 here as T3 will strip your screw head
For me a T4 does NOT work - I needed a T3 Torx screwdriver.
t4 for me, better check beforehand so you don’t strip. Don’t think the box stores are going to carry these
The T3 works fine. Just be really careful. Keep the tool upright, maintain plenty of pressure and work slowly.
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Déconnectez la nappe du trackpad de la carte mère en la soulevant tout droit vers le haut avec une spatule.
If you are removing the logic board, you can skip the rest of the trackpad removal steps. Just fold the cable back out of the way and the track pad can stay in place.
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Préparez un iOpener et posez-le sur la nappe du trackpad pendant environ une minute, afin de faire ramollir l'adhésif qui fixe la nappe du trackpad sur la batterie.
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Si vous n'avez pas d'iOpener, remplacez-le par un sèche-cheveux pour chauffer la nappe. La nappe devrait être chaude, mais non brûlante au toucher. Faites attention à ne pas surchauffer la batterie.
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Décollez soigneusement la nappe du trackpad de la batterie et repliez-la de côté.
If you are changing the batter you don’t need to remove the logic board and you can jump to step 64. It can say you a lot of time. But there is one trick you need to do. It can be tricky getting the cable under the logic board but I ended up breaking the plastic “wall” that holds the centre battery and you can slide the cable in and just glue back the wall.
I believe at this point you skip to Step 77 if you are not using adhesive remover and not removing the logic board. Ian Jeffreys picture of the plastic "wall" is very useful.. (see comments at the end, he has the JPG posted there.)
Can confirm to have skipped removing of track pad and logic board etc. Right after this step I started to remove the battery (no liquids, used a plastic card only). Please note that when placing the new battery you need start with the battery cable first by sliding the upper left corner of the cable under the area of the trackpad cable connector (compare with pics in step 18). Next place the battery board by lifting the battery connector to more than 90 degrees up (compare with pics in step 15). Then you need to slide the upper right of the battery cable under the area right next to the battery connector. Once the upper part of the battery cable with the battery board is set in place you can start to peel away the liner to expose the adhesive of the new battery, position the battery and set it into place too.
Since I only want to remove the battery and am not using any solvents, I also skipped most of the rest of the steps after this to remove the battery. Just using some heat and a card to separate the adhesive and the bending the battery connector to get it out from under the board means you need not remove all the other stuff to protect from solvents.
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Prenez un tournevis Torx T5 pour retirer les dix vis qui fixent l'ensemble trackpad :
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Deux vis de 4,3 mm
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Huit vis de 5,8 mm
Since I only want to remove the battery and am not using any solvents, I also skipped most of the rest of the steps after this to remove the battery. Just using some heat and a card to separate the adhesive and the bending the battery connector to get it out from under the board means you need not remove all the other stuff to protect from solvents.
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Retirez l'ensemble trackpad.
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Assurez-vous de ne perdre aucune des six petites rondelles (deux rondes et quatre rectangulaires) qui se trouvent en dessous du trackpad.
This is all you have to do. Slip the battery into your machine where the old one was, run the ribbon cables from the center battery under the motherboard, run the battery data connector to its very sensitive connection to the motherboard, screw in two other screws to hold the battery “chip” in place, screw in the pancake screw and you’re good. There’s no need to remove the motherboard for this installation.
Why need to Remove the trackpad assembly? For what?
I wish I had read what others said here and watched other videos on youtube. This guide is a disaster. You will end up destroying your logic board. Why this idiot did it this way I can’t under stand. Thanks for nothing you &&^&. I’m having to replace my entire logic board. I could just as easily slipped the old battery cable out from under the logic board. Grrrrrrr. Your guide is $@$* and was so difficult to put everything back together. My fan runs continuously at full speed.
I have to agree I’m using the floss method and not removing the motherboard I did this with a 2012 and a 2013 retina MacBook Pro when changing batteries and those computers are still going strong
I was able to remove and replace the battery without removing the logic board and easily saved half the work.
It's not easy to get the data cables under the corners of the logic board but it you push the whole assembly to the right and get the left one under first, then carefully twist the right side under the logic board you can save about 90 minutes of work
Practice with the old battery.
Also: I leave the tape backing on and assemble and test first. You'd hate to have to unglue a doa battery!
Reviving the track pad is to avoid getting the adhe adhesive remover into the track pad. It's easy enough to do I will do that step.
Anyone has an aswer to why my touchpad is extremely sensitive? the slightest touch send it into a clicking frenzy
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Prenez un tournevis T3 Torx pour dévisser les deux vis de 1,9 mm du cache du connecteur du clavier.
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Débranchez le connecteur du clavier en le soulevant de la carte mère vers le haut avec une spatule.
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Retirez les deux vis Torx T3 de 2,9 mm qui fixent le cache en aluminium sur la nappe d'écran principale.
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Retirez le cache.
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À l'aide d'un tournevis T3 Torx :
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Dévissez les deux vis de 1,4 mm du cache du connecteur des ports Thunderbolt gauches.
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Dévissez les deux vis de 1,4 mm du cache du connecteur des autres ports Thunderbolt, à droite.
If you are trying to replace the Thunderbolt port boards, you have to finish removing the entire logic board in order to get to the 2 screws holding each board in place. You can leave the battery and track pad in place though.
Apple used poor quality boards for the thunderbolt boards so they will definitely wear out over time. Make sure you replace them with metal boards and your USB C cable will click in nice and tight for a really long time.
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Soulevez le connecteur des ports Thunderbolt gauches avec une spatule pour le débrancher de la carte mère.
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Repliez délicatement le connecteur de côté, de façon qu'il ne dérange pas quand vous retirerez la carte mère.
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Faites de même avec le connecteur des ports Thunderbolt droits, en faisant levier sur le bord intérieur et en le repliant délicatement de côté.
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Prenez un tournevis T3 Torx pour dévisser les deux vis de 1,9 mm du cache qui fixe le connecteurs Touch ID et celui de la prise jack de 3,5 mm.
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Débranchez la nappe de la prise jack de 3,5 mm de sa prise sur la carte mère en soulevant la nappe tout droit vers le haut avec une spatule.
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Repliez soigneusement la nappe de côté.
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Débranchez la nappe Touch ID/bouton de marche en la soulevant de la carte mère vers le haut.
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Faites légèrement chauffer cette zone avec un iOpener, un pistolet à air chaud ou un sèche-cheveux pour ramollir l'adhésif sous la nappe Touch ID/bouton de marche.
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Faites soigneusement glisser un médiator sous la nappe pour la séparer de la carte mère et repliez-la délicatement de côté.
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Si vous avez du mal, ne forcez pas. Refaites un peu chauffer et recommencez.
First let me thank you for this AMAZING guide which helped me a lot to achieve an almost successful battery replacement… I’m saying “almost” because, as you write in red letters, I wasn’t careful enough and my Touch ID cable got damaged.
Do you have any idea on how much should such a repair cost?
I know that only apple stores or authorized service providers can perform such a repair…
Thanks again!
Boy that’s a tough one :( It’s among the most problematic of all components to replace, because the fingerprint sensor is cryptographically paired to the logic board. The best option might be to get in touch with a skilled microsolderer and ask if they can take a look at the cable and try to repair the traces. Apart from that, the only options I’m aware of would be to pay Apple whatever they demand for a repair (no idea, but most likely a lot), or replace both the sensor and the entire logic board with another set that is already paired and undamaged. Wish I could be more help. Good luck!
Difficult though it may be, as a retired fixer, and amazed at the new tiny tiny parts, I am even more amazed at this new cooperative culture of fixers. The depth of helpful detail is amazing. The new environment of cheap special tools, and amazingly detailed hires pics is a powerful new repair meme. I used i-fixit for my first MBAir, but haven’t the skills for this, my current mac. But this addition, the carefully inserted comments of users, and the skills and cooperative attitude of you all, is quite amazing. And I watch and admire. Well done, you.
This cable has a metal plate that is PART OF THE CABLE. It is initially invisible, and can easily be mistaken for part of the logic board upon which it is adhered. As you begin to try to peel it up, make certain that your tool is also making its way beneath that integral thin metal plate. There are chip components that will delaminate from the cable if you attempt to lift it, or if your prying tool happens to not make it under the plate.
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Prenez un tournevis T3 Torx pour dévisser la vis de 1,9 mm qui fixe le cache du numériseur de la Touch Bar.
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Déconnectez le numériseur de la Touch Bar de sa prise sur la carte mère en le soulevant vers le haut à l'aide d'une spatule.
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Prenez un tournevis Torx T3 pour ôter les deux vis de 1,9 mm du cache du connecteur de l'écran de la Touch Bar.
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Soulevez le connecteur de l'écran de la Touch Bar vers le haut avec une spatule pour le débrancher de la carte mère.
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Décollez le morceau de ruban adhésif qui recouvre la prise du connecteur du microphone.
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Retournez le clapet de verrouillage du connecteur ZIF de la nappe du microphone.
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Débranchez la nappe du microphone en la tirant vers l'arrière – c.-à.-d. en l'éloignant du ventilateur – jusqu'à ce qu'elle glisse hors de sa prise.
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Si possible, ne tirez pas sur la nappe même, mais sur le ruban adhésif qui y colle.
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Ouvrez le clapet de verrouillage du connecteur ZIF du tweeter gauche en le soulevant de la carte mère vers le haut.
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Détachez le morceau de ruban adhésif qui recouvre la nappe du haut-parleur gauche.
For me, the main speaker tape on both sides tore loose, which is a real shame, because those are the two hardest to get back in - they're very short and stiff.
Important safety tip: On my laptop, the cables have two semicircular notches near the end. You can tell when they're fully-inserted when the notches are inside the connector.
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Retournez le clapet de verrouillage du connecteur ZIF du haut-parleur gauche en le soulevant de sa prise sur la carte mère vers le haut.
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Répétez les six étapes précédentes pour débrancher le tweeter et le haut-parleur du côté opposé, sur la droite.
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Commencez en décollant le morceau de ruban adhésif qui recouvre le connecteur du tweeter.
This step seems redundant as those six steps get repeated in detail anyway after this step.
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Soulevez le clapet de verrouillage du connecteur ZIF du tweeter droit en le soulevant de sa prise sur la carte mère vers le haut.
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Retournez le clapet de verrouillage du connecteur ZIF du haut-parleur droit en le soulevant de la prise sur la carte mère.
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Débranchez le premier câble d'antenne en le soulevant de sa prise vers le haut.
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Faites délicatement glisser votre pincette ou l'extrémité plate de votre spatule sous la nappe jusqu'à atteindre la prise, ou bien faites délicatement pivoter votre outil ou faites levier pour débrancher le câble.
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Répétez l'étape précédente pour débrancher les deux câbles d'antenne restants.
Reconnecting is very tricky. It doesn't take much force to push down, but the connectors have to be perfectly aligned. You won't really feel it snap into place, but it will stay put and resist wiggling.
Agreed, very tricky step. I found the two slightly longer leads easier to reattach. Then I used them as a visual guide to attach the small lead. It helped to slightly bend the lead. Glenn is correct, it doesn’t take much pressure to attach but the leads have to be perfectly aligned. Be careful if you test the fit, very easy to pry back off.
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Prenez un tournevis Torx T5 pour retirer la vis de 2,9 mm qui fixe le faisceau de câbles d'antenne.
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Ôtez les dix vis qui fixent l'ensemble carte mère :
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Trois vis Torx T3 de 2,5 mm
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Cinq vis Torx T5 de 2,9 mm
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Deux vis Torx T5 de 3,0 mm
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Détachez (sans les retirer) les deux bandes en caoutchouc de l'adhésif qui les fixe aux ventilateurs. Elles servent à amortir les vibrations.
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Si nécessaire, faites-les légèrement chauffer avec un iOpener, un sèche-cheveux ou un pistolet à air chaud pour ramollir l'adhésif et faciliter leur décollage.
Mine had no adhesive on them at all. You only need to make sure they are loosened from the fan shroud. They come out with the logic board assembly.
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Retirez l'ensemble carte mère en la soulevant du côté gauche.
Wichtig !!
Vorher den Display Anschluß (hinten mitte) Abschrauben und lösen.
2x bleche mit jeweils 2 Scxhrauben
Ist nachgetragen. Danke!
What just happened… While I was removing the logic board one of the small black boxes from the bottom right just fell off. I am not sure but I think it is a capacitor - it says KO 336 16K 723. It just fell, I did not even touch this part… Maybe it was broken when I opened up the case in the beginning, but I did not notice it then.
Did I just break my laptop?
Translation
Important !!
First unscrew and loosen the display connection (rear center).
2x plates with 2 screws each
@Glendstone You are absolutely right. This is a key feature they forgot to explain.
The feedbacis has possibly already been addressed in step 27 as it was already fully disconnected when I got to this step.
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Vérifiez l'alignement des amortisseurs de vibrations en caoutchouc et ajustez au besoin.
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Faites passer le faisceau de câbles d'antenne entre la carte mère et le dissipateur thermique et assurez-vous qu'il est aligné correctement quand vous réinsérez la carte mère en place.
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Vérifiez qu'aucune nappe ne reste accrochée à la carte quand vous la remettez. Contrôlez soigneusement chaque zone entourée en orange.
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Prenez un tournevis Torx T5 pour dévisser les deux vis de 3,2 mm de la puce de la batterie.
Terrible time to lose screws, but that is exactly what ended up happening to me. I lost the battery board screws and ended up crazy glueing down.
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Pour protéger votre écran, posez une feuille d'aluminium entre l'écran et le clavier et laissez-l'y pendant que vous effectuez cette manipulation.
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De plus, prenez du ruban adhésif ou du papier aluminium pour sceller la zone sous le trackpad. Vous pouvez également poser du papier essuie-tout juste en-dessous de la zone du trackpad pour éponger les excédents de dissolvant.
From here onward I just used the plastic cards provided without the adhesive. It just cut through the tape and took them off in 2-3 mins without any issue. I tried the floss and it just kept breaking and I didn't want to use the adhesive remover liquid if I could find another way. Using the cards was the best for me.
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Coupez un morceau de ruban adhésif d'emballage ou de masquage et insérez un bord entre la batterie et le haut-parleur gauche.
I didn’t have packing tape or painter’s tape so I tried to use some of the packing materials, but that was a bad idea. What ended up working for me was to elevate one side and used the plastic card to to direct the acetone away from the speaker. Worked a-ok.
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Appuyez le long du côté court gauche du morceau de ruban avec votre spatule pour qu'il adhère bien au boîtier en aluminium du MacBook Pro et que le haut-parleur soit isolé de la batterie.
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Repliez le ruban adhésif et faites-le légèrement adhérer au haut-parleur pour qu'il ne vous dérange pas.
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Répétez les deux étapes précédentes du côté opposé afin d'isoler l'autre haut-parleur de la batterie.
Note that no matter how well you tape off the speakers and elevate the sides of the laptop, there is not a lot of space between the battery and the speaker, and adhesive remover WILL wick under the speakers. Yay for capillary action, I guess? . . ..
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Afin de contrôler l'écoulement du dissolvant pour adhésif et l'éloigner du haut-parleur, surélevez le côté droit de votre MacBook Pro de quelques centimètres avec un livre ou un bloc en mousse.
The Fix Kit box is the perfect size for this job. I stuck a little packing tape from the metal case to the box to stop it accidentally sliding off.
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Maintenant que votre MacBook Pro est enfin prêt, il est temps de vous pomponner.
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Portez des lunettes de protection quand vous manipulez et appliquez le dissolvant. (Des lunettes sont fournies avec le kit.)
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Ne portez pas de lentilles si vous ne mettez pas de lunettes de protection.
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Des gants de protection sont également inclus dans votre kit. Si vous avez la peau sensible, enfilez-les.
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Enlevez le bouchon en caoutchouc noir de votre flacon de dissolvant pour adhésif.
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Coupez l'embout applicateur avec une paire de ciseaux.
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Si vous coupez près de la pointe, il vous sera plus facile de contrôler les petites quantités de dissolvant à appliquer.
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Déposez quelques goutes de dissolvant pour adhésif sous la cellule de batterie la plus à droite.
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Attendez environ deux minutes que le dissolvant pénètre et fasse ramollir l'adhésif de la batterie avant de continuer à la prochaine étape.
It REALLY IS strong solvent! I accidentally got some on the rubber strip between the battery and the logic board compartment and it peeled right off! I had to replace this with some spare rubber feet I had for another device.
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Au bout de quelques minutes, insérez le coin d'une carte en plastique sous la cellule extérieure droite, en commençant devant.
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Faites jouer la carte d'un côté vers l'autre, mais n'essayez pas encore de retirer complètement la cellule de la batterie.
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Soulevez la batterie pour faire céder tout l'adhésif, mais n'essayez pas encore de retirer complètement la cellule de la batterie.
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Laissez la carte en plastique sous la cellule pour l'empêcher de réadhérer pendant que vous continuez.
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Si vous avez du mal à insérer la carte sous une des cellules de la batterie, essayez de faire passer un morceau de ficelle ou de fil sous la batterie. Tirez-la d'un côté vers l'autre avec un mouvement de scie pour trancher l'adhésif.
Bei der Entfernung der Akkus mit Zahnseide oder Maurerschnur jeden Akku seperat lösen.
Wie im Bild gezeigt von hinten einfädeln und dann zwischen den beiden Akkus nach vorne lösen.
Dabei die Zahnseide wie eine Säge nach rechts und Links bewegen.
Bei den kleineren Akkus sind die Klebestreifen von hinten nach vorne. Somit ist das auch die Richtung wie man sie einfach lösen kann.
Der Mittlere Akku ist von links nach rechts verklebt. Somit sollte man dort die Richtung ändern.
Danke für die Erläuterungen!
Translation (Google) : When removing the batteries with dental floss or masonry cord, loosen each battery separately. Thread it in from the back as shown in the picture and then release it to the front between the two batteries. Move the floss to the right and left like a saw. On the smaller batteries, the adhesive strips are from back to front. So this is also the direction how to solve them easily. The middle battery is glued from left to right. So you should change direction there.
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Répétez les étapes précédente pour décoller la cellule de batterie la plus à gauche.
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Commencez par surélever le côté gauche du MacBook Pro pour éviter que le dissolvant pour adhésif coule sous le haut-parleur.
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Déposez quelques gouttes de dissolvant pour adhésif sous la cellule la plus à gauche et attendez environ deux minutes qu'il pénètre.
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Faites glisser le coin d'une carte en plastique sous la cellule extérieure gauche et faites soigneusement levier pour détacher l'adhésif qui la maintient en place.
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Laissez la carte en plastique sous la cellule pour l'empêcher d'adhérer de nouveau pendant que vous continuez.
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À présent, surélevez le bord arrière de votre MacBook Pro pour empêcher que le dissolvant se répande dans la zone clavier/carte mère
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Déposez quelques gouttes de dissolvant sous chacune des trois cellules restantes.
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Faites attention aux fuites et appliquez plus de dissolvant si nécessaire.
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Laissez agir pendant environ deux minutes avant de continuer.
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Faites glisser une carte en plastique sous toute la cellule extérieure gauche, celle que vous avez déjà décollée au cours des étapes précédentes. Puis faites soigneusement passer votre outil entre la cellule de gauche restante et le boîtier en aluminium du MacBook Pro.
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Répétez les étapes précédentes pour détacher la cellule droite qui reste.
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Faites glisser le coin d'une de vos cartes en plastique sous le bord supérieur de la cellule du milieu.
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Faites jouer la carte d'un côté vers l'autre et faites-la glisser sous la cellule pour décoller complètement l'adhésif qui la maintient en place.
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Enlevez la batterie.
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Avant d'installer une nouvelle batterie, ôtez tous les résidus d'adhésif du boîtier du MacBook Pro.
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Décollez les plus gros morceaux d'adhésif avec une pincette ou vos doigts gantés.
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Grattez tout reste de colle avec un outil en plastique et nettoyez la surface d'adhésion avec du dissolvant pour adhésif ou de l'alcool isopropylique. Essuyez dans une direction (sans va-et-vient) jusqu'à ce que le châssis soit propre et prêt à accueillir votre batterie neuve.
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Une fois que vous avez fini, ôtez soigneusement le ruban adhésif qui protège les haut-parleurs.
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Faites attention à la nappe de données de la batterie. Elle risque de rester coincée sous la puce de la batterie.
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Si votre batterie est déjà munie d'adhésif, retournez-la et décollez soigneusement le film de protection pour accéder à l'adhésif. Si la batterie est livrée sans, appliquez du ruban adhésif double-face fin comme le Tesa 61395 pou fixer la batterie.
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Positionnez soigneusement la batterie et insérez-la dans son logement.
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Appuyez et enfoncez fermement chaque cellule pendant 5 à 0 secondes pour la faire adhérer au boîtier inférieur.
Step 88 is a bit . . . . sparse. “Carefully position the battery and set it into place.“ Ha! Be prepared for mass amounts of swearing (and I don’t usually swear). iFixIt sends you a battery that has the adhesive strips covered with one long very thick piece of plastic. And by “battery” I mean five discreet sections held together with thin ribbon cables that make the entire thing as wriggly as a toddler and as unstable as my girlfriend in college. If you take it off the thick plastic and try to maneuver the battery into its very specific places while the battery’s strong adhesive strips stick to everything but what it should you will rue the day. Rue, I tell you! I cut the top piece of thinner plastic into three sections (middle, left side, right side) so I was able to place one section at a time, and it made it much easier (well, “much” may be a stretch. How about, “only slightly less-sweary”).
I feel sorry for Wayne though happy for his comment. I got my battery pack delivered with 5 separate plastic covers on the adhesive strips under, and one long plastic sheet holding the five parts together at the top. Thanks to the latter, I could easily position the 5-pack, remove the cover from the bottom parts one by one, and the holding sheet at last.
Thank you Wayne and thank you iFixit :-)
Thank YOU for this comment to Wayne because I too was confused about the purpose and proper use of the aligning plastic and adhesive pads. I originally thought it was meant to be the tape/pads to hold the new battery in place in the macbook, albeit they were a lot thicker and the way they were arranged etc made no sense for how to use it that way. Once I read your comment it all made sense and with the addition of some 3M double-sided I was all set. Thanks Paul!
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Comparez votre pièce de remplacement à l'originale. Vous devrez peut-être transférer les composants restants ou décoller les films adhésifs de la pièce neuve avant de la monter.
Pour remonter votre appareil, suivez les étapes ci-dessus en sens inverse.
Apportez vos déchets électroniques à un recycleur certifié R2 ou e-Stewards.
La réparation ne s’est pas déroulée comme prévu ? Consultez nos conseils basiques de diagnostic ou notre communauté de réponses pour obtenir de l’aide.
Comparez votre pièce de remplacement à l'originale. Vous devrez peut-être transférer les composants restants ou décoller les films adhésifs de la pièce neuve avant de la monter.
Pour remonter votre appareil, suivez les étapes ci-dessus en sens inverse.
Apportez vos déchets électroniques à un recycleur certifié R2 ou e-Stewards.
La réparation ne s’est pas déroulée comme prévu ? Consultez nos conseils basiques de diagnostic ou notre communauté de réponses pour obtenir de l’aide.
Annulation : je n'ai pas terminé ce tutoriel.
82 autres ont terminé cette réparation.
Merci à ces traducteurs :
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37 commentaires
Amazing, Thanks
does this also work for the 2018 model?
Why do you remove the logic board? There are videos on youtube that demonstrate that there is no need to remove the logic board or the trackpad to replace the battery ...
no need to remove the logic board .
Cosmin -
Just finished replacing - stopped at step 23 after removing the Track Pad. Did not have to remove Logic Board. You don’t even need to remove the Track Pad, but because of the glue on the center cell, it’s probably a good idea and a pretty easy step to keep Track Pad safe when prying the cell off the case. It does take a bit of careful “jiggling” to remove the old battery and to slide the new one under the LB, but IMO definitely much (MUCH!) easier than removing all of the components after step 23.
Vadique -
I just replaced my battery without removing the board. However that requires a dangerous wiggle dance to run the battery controller ribbon cables under the mainboard without breaking them.
For anyone attempting this: first slide the left corner in by angling the whole battery pack so that it goes in. Arrange the battery packs but don’t glue them in yet. For the right corner, angle the mainboard’s battery connector straight up to keep it out of the way and then carefully bend the ribbon cable almost vertically to slide it in between the mainboard and the case. I’ve used the pick to carefully push it in along its length from left to right.
When Eugene says the RIGHT side, is that the right side as you look down on the battery or that actual right side of the computer?
leorob -
The instructions are missing one step: Disconnecting the display cable. It is located in the top center. If you look closely in the images, the cable is still connected in step 19 but then it is disconnected in step 39 (on the top-left at the very edge of the picture you see half of the loose cable. The disconnected cable is fully visible in the picture for step 58)
hy
i have an issue with a macbook pro 13 2018
battery condition: replace now
cycle count 2
charge remaining (mAh) 0
full charge capacity (mAh) 5169
amperage (mA) 0
voltage (mV) 4330,
battery is not charging
does any one know how to solve this ?
is there a way to charge the battery disconected from the mainboard? like jump start
i think that thr battery is under the charging designated voltage and the macbook does not charge it due to this low voltage.
the laptop is new , was not used from 2018!
tried smc resset and it does not work
thank u
I have a similar problem, I have a 2017 MB Pro with TouchBar 4ports with the problem of the battery not exceeding 1%, and this is the second original battery from apple, the second battery lasted about 40 charge cycles ... now out of guarantees and campaigns, I had to change the battery for a non-original one. I opted for a SLODA (which comes with everything you need and looks pretty good). Once changed successfully following this guide, the macbook boots on battery, but there is no way to get the battery to charge with the original charger...it detected it at 80% charge, the mac detects the original charger, giving all the information on the charger and power, but in none of the 4 USB-C ports does the battery charge. Even trying 2 different Mac chargers I am able to get it to charge. Next week I will try another brand of battery, but it gives me that the motherboard of my macbook pro 2017 with 4 ports is damaged. It is not normal that the 2nd battery replaced by apple lasted only 40 cycles. Greetings and THX
Daniel -
Followed each of the steps and the battery install was successful but now I’ve lost the mic and the touchbar. I’ve gone back and removed and reattached the connections with no luck. Any ideas?
Excellent and very detailed guide. I did this on the mid 2018 model and had no problems. However, I must note that removing the logic board is not needed to remove the battery. saves a lot of work if once you remove the trackpad, you just skip to battery removal.
Wunderbar, danke, erfolgreich ausgeführt. Auch ohne das Logic Board auszubauen, nur das TrackPad musste raus. Etwas schwierig die Leitungen unter das Board zu schieben beim Einbau des Akkus…vielleicht auch eine kleine Gefahr der Beschädigung der Leitungen vorhanden, hat aber gut geklappt und spart sehr viel Arbeitsschritte
Success - the patient is alive and well! The instructions are awesome. I did all 88 steps forward and back. Allowed me to avoid the chance of getting adhesive remover on the circuit card or in the trackpad. I also took the opportunity to clean any dust off the fans, logic board, and inside the case. In surgery for 5 hours but spent time cleaning all the adhesive from the battery compartment. Did not have the iOpener so heated a metal bar with my heat gun and applied that. Those antenna connectors were tough to go back on (tough to align to get them to snap - and I’ve used them before on other projects). All features related to connectors removed and reapplied seem to work perfectly.
Success too! I was very nervous during all the process. Took me around 3 hours and two mugs of coffee.
My old battery had vastly inflated (over 2cm thick). With patience I got rid of the Apple's glue and stickers.
Everything is working like a charm now: bluetooth, wifi, trackpad, touchbar, fingerprint, audio, mic.
Thank you so much for your guide!
PS: I also do not understand why I needed to remove the logic board but it needed de-dusting anyway!
Like Cosmin and Vadique, I decided not to remove the logic board. Instead, I stopped at step 27 and removed the 10 logic board screws that allowed me to lift the logic board enough to sneak the PCB in between the raised aluminum case and the logic board. Like I also mentioned in step 11, be very careful with the battery data connector. It is very easy to damage (ummm, or so I’ve heard . . .) and this repair could make your laptop tethered to a charger for the rest of its life. How I managed to sneak it back into place after breaking it off is a mystery to me.
At step 30, 33, and 63, I ended up using a T4 Torx screwdriver instead of a T3 since it was slipping on the screws. Other than that, it was an amazing guide.
I can see why you wouldn’t have to remove the logic board but it did make things easier at the end when that was out of the way.
I just finished my 2017 MBP retina with touch bar, I couldn’t remove the LB because one of the Torx screws was stripped. I was able to slip the battery under the LB, add the trackpad back, and put everything back together. Much easier than removing all of the components, however a bit more risk. Btw, drain your battery before removing it, mine started sparking and I thought it was going to catch on fire … oops.
Isn’t the display cable removal missing? I followed this guide a few time and every time I forgot to unscrew it. It is highlighted in step 66, though.
I followed this guide exactly, except for removing the logic board, which is unnecessary. The new battery I purchased from iFixit, and I used the kit from iFixit, which we used on a previous battery replacement in a 2015 MacBook Pro. Everything went extremely well like before, just over 2 hours for something that was nearly impossible in the past without iFixit.
However, I boot it up and macOS says the new battery from iFixit needs service and is not charging. The Mac system report shows it’s a new battery with zero cycle count, so I get Coconutbattery for more details. Coconutbattery says the “new” battery is actually 1619 days old, manufactured in 2017, and current charge capacity is 50.8% of design capacity!
Wow, the part I bought from iFixit is actually worse than the old one I spent over 2 hours replacing. I sent an urgent, frustrated email to support asking what they are going to do, because our customer needs this back ASAP. We’re going to have to do it again at no charge.
Excellent guide, I was able to complete the repair without drama, thank you!
This was a lot of work but paid off handsomely. Happy to say everything worked when I put it all back together. On the whole this guide is amply detailed and well-illustrated!
I’d recommend repeating the link to the swollen battery instructions in step 8. I missed it in the intro and my battery was swollen enough to pop the center and side clips while I was removing the pentalobe screws in step 2. (Fortunately the guide as-is advised enough caution that I didn’t get in trouble!) I’d also recommend moving the warning about the trackpad washers ahead to step 22. It was at that point that one of the circular washers went MIA on me, before I realized there were washers. The third image in step 66 was highly valuable in making sure all the cables were in the right place before screwing down the logic board!
To keep the screws organized I screen-grabbed all the images of screw locations and printed them 4-up and covered the screw locations with double-sided tape to hold the screws as I removed them.
Sorry Leute, aber ich verstehe den Aufwand nicht, den ihr da treibt. Ich habe heute so einen Akku erfolgreich getauscht und musste nur das Kabel des Trackpads lösen. Der ganze restliche Bohai ist unnötig! Und auch das Lösungsmittel kann man sich sparen, wenn man den Akku mit einem breiten Spatel langsam löst.
Perfect both the product and the instructions. Thanks so much.
Perfect both the product and the instructions. Thanks so much.
Just finished the battery surgery on my 2017 MB Pro 13" Touch Bar. I elected to not use the liquid adhesive remover and thus did not bother to remove the logic board. As others said, get to step 23 and then skip ahead to removing the battery. I used one of the plastic cards included in the kit to fairly easily separate the battery from the adhesive. The key is to push the card through the adhesive and to not try to pry the battery away from the adhesive. For the logic board, I simply removed all the screws that secure it to the chassis so that it could be slightly lifted to pass the battery connector into place.
Completed the replacement of my battery. Tried to turn it on and only the right fan was on super loud. I have no idea what happened or what to do.
Just finished replacing the battery. I stopped after step 21, so didn't remove the trackpad. And continued with step 69. I removed most of the Logic Board screws to be able to lift the LB a bit to get the battery out and replace it with the new one. It took some time to remove the batteries and I used alcohol 70%. For the battery in the middle I didn't use alcohol because the trackpad was still underneath. Instead I used two plastic cards, the bottom one to protect the trackpad and the top one to "jiggle'' through the glue. I'm aware I took more risks than when you follow all steps of this very good instruction. My compliments to the iFiXiT team and thanks for the translation of Thomas Keulemans.
I follow step by step, plus an ammendment published by @Glendstone on Step 62, and at the moment, everything worked o.k.
Ich habe auch das Logic Board drin gelassen. Lediglich beim Einfädeln der Flachbandkabel zwischen einem sinnfreien Plastikklotz oberhalb des Trackpads hatte ich Probleme. In diesem Moment muss man bereits mit den neuen, klebrigen Batterien jonglieren, die für diesen Moment eben noch nicht irgendwo festkleben dürfen. Dazu war es hilfreich, die Schrauben des Logic Boards (vom Trackpad gesehen aus zu den Lüftern) zu entfernen, damit man etwas mehr Spielraum zum Unterschieben der Kabel hat.
Ansonsten: Prima Anleitung! Der Klebstoffentferner ist wirklich SEHR wirksam. Vorsicht beim Verteilen. Das kleine Flaschen "spuckt" gerne. Eine kleine Spritze zu benutzen ist jedoch eine noch weniger gute Idee. Besser ein Wattestäbchen tränken und dies im mehren Schritten an den richtigen Stellen auspressen.
Excelent guide and replacement went smoothly (Took me about 1.5 hours because I did it without removing the motherboard). Until I turned the machine and the ssd is not detected, not even in recovery mode. I dont know what to do so any help will be greatly appreciated
If you left the mobo screwed down there isnt much to troubleshoot. Just check all of the cables around the perimeter of the device, 2 of the corners of the laptop have dual ribbon cable connections underneath each other. Make sure the ribbon connection on top of the battery "connecting plate"(held down by a large head screw), is there and screwed down all the way.
Just finished to reinstall, everything run fine except that the new battery status is "fully charged" but the computer shutdown when I unplug the USB-C cable, no battery icon in the toolbar either.
I just followed this document on replacing the battery as well as the type-c charging ports on both sides of a Macbook A1706 2017 with Touch bar. I've always bought the replacement ports from amazon, and I've never gotten one complaint. After installation the "snap" you feel/hear when you plug in a charger feels and sounds like a quality part. As always, this "How-to" guide was stellar, and I followed it to a "T". Replacing battery & both charging ports took me 3.25 hours total, which is an hour more than I estimated!
I own a PC repair business, and I quickly learned that when doing repairs on Apple products you need to have a large screw/parts organizer WITH LABELS or else you're going to really screw up someone's device! I really hate fixing Apple products, but SO THANKFUL I have IFIXIT guides like this to reference.
Huge thanks from Carrollwood Computers ~Tampa Bay Area
Stopped after completing step 20. Then, when installing battery just followed what Eugene Pankov mentioned looking down at the battery. Easy-peasy. Used only the screwdriver, tweezers, glue removal card, one guitar pick, 4 q-tip and acetone for clean up from the kit. The old adhesive removal took the longest to do slowly removing with the tweezers. Then using some acetone on the q-tip to remove any leftover foam adhesive.
Is this step necessary? I can’t perform this step as I am attempting to repair water damage and need to remove logic board & most likely replace the battery.
Macrepair SF - Réponse
@mac_medic You definitely don’t want the power coming on while the board is wet. In your case, I think powering on the machine to disable Auto Boot would do more damage than it prevents. I agree, skip this step and be prepared to disconnect the battery quickly if the laptop automatically powers on. Good luck!
Jeff Suovanen -
Thats right! You don't want power running while working on your logic board.
Dan -
This did not work when running High Sierra.
Kyle B - Réponse
Tried this on a 2018 MBP 13” Touchbar (there’s no iFixit guide for this model yet). Need to replace a broken screen.
Luckily I managed to connect to an external screen (Cmd-Down Brightness to switch displays) and enter above command. Seems to work, but there’s another problem with this model - it powers up as soon as any key is pressed……. ffs <gnashes teeth>
Cool_Breeze - Réponse
I unscrew the battery first and wrap electrical tape over the logic board battery connector before attempting any repairs to the board. Haven’t had any problems yet and I’ve worked on about 10 of these models already. Also when you open the bottom case use a suction cup at the bottom and pull up then run a plastic spudger along the edges to disconnect the clips. Also only use a plastic spudger on the board. Saw a youtube video from a repair shop and he did not disconnect the power and used all metal tools during the entire process of removing the board. His last step was to disconnect the battery terminal.
Brian - Réponse
Is this step necessary if my mac can turn on? Battery fully dead(
Nursat b - Réponse
BEFORE YOU START: The included torx head stripped off before I was done (and you might need an additional T4) so stop now and go buy a good one. Also they fail to warn you above to get some blue threadlocker ahead of time.
Jason Sherron - Réponse
This command did not work for me and I read that sometime in later 2020 Apple stopped this command from working…any ideas on a work around?
Patrick Machacek - Réponse
Not able to do that with damaged screen
richardjgreen - Réponse
If you have a damaged screen you can still use a converter from thunderbolt (USB 3) to HDMI and plug your Macbook Pro to your TV as monitor display. Just make sure to chose the right Source (HDMI IN) in your TV. I did it and to make it work I unplug and plug again in my Macbook and so I could disable the Auto boot
Roberto Sanchez Bustos -
Hi. This does not work on 2018 13” MacBook Pro with Touch Bar. I did exactly this to disable auto boot. But when I check by using nvram -p it says: auto-boot true. Am I doing something incorrectly? I did everything step by step. Copied and pasted the sudo command, pressed enter and then entered my password. I have Big Sur 11.1 installed. Is there any other way since I need to replace the screen. Thank you. Adrian
Adrian Vizik - Réponse
Hi everyone. This is also a little pointless if you can’t see anything on the screen, and you don’t have a display adapter to USB C to display it. I agree with Brian about removing the back and disconnecting the battery cable before you even think about opening the lid of the MacBook. Applying the insulation tape is also a handy little tip that just makes sure there is no way to discharge from either the board or battery.
Roberto Enrieu - Réponse
running `nvram -p | grep 'AutoBoot'` in terminal verifies that it was accepted
result: `AutoBoot %00`
Marek Polák - Réponse
Running Big Sur 11.6.7 on a 2019 16" MBP, it's "auto-boot". So it's:
nvram -p | grep 'auto-boot'to display the current state, the default istrue- and then to change it,sudo nvram auto-boot=falsewhich turns it off.Ed Mechem -
This step is completely unnecessary if you follow the guide to disconnect the battery properly. Just put some tape between the battery and logic board connection to prevent it from accidentally touching and therefore powering on the laptop.
Grant Ormsby - Réponse
It took me a few tries to make this command work, as I was able to copy and paste the command into Terminal, but could not type in my laptop’s password. I finally typed my password into a text document, copied it (command C), and then pasted it into Terminal and it worked.
tommy404 - Réponse
I didn’t do this. Mine never auto-booted before I replaced the battery. Now it does.
hatuxka - Réponse
BEFORE YOU DO ANYTHING - CHECK THE BATTERY!
I-fixit sent me a bad battery, which I didn’t realize until it was already install. They sent me a new one, but I wasted hours uninstalling and reinstalled.
Get a volt meter and measure the voltage on the output of the battery pack. If it reads 0 V, SEND IT BACK. It should read over 2 V.
bcardanha - Réponse
I've just received my replacement battery and it reads 0,042V between the two main connectors. Do you think it's dead?
peter sussex -
When I did this from Terminal.app within Recovery Mode, the “sudo” was not recognized but I could invoke it without the sudo part. It seems to have been accepted when looking at “nvram -p”
johann beda - Réponse
When in Recovery Mode, you already have superuser powers. So you don't need to prefix commands with the sudo command to invoke them with root privileges; you already have them. Do a
pwd(print working directory) after opening Terminal in Recovery Mode, and you'll see that you're in the root user's directory.Ed Mechem -
I received the battery kit for my 2018 MacBook Pro and as per the above comment from bcardanha - Oct 12, 2021, I checked the voltage on the pads marked + and - . It was zero volts so I panicked a bit.
I sent a message on the iFixiT Facebook page and I got no reply. I finally found the customer service email for Ifixit Europe and sent them an email voicing my concern as I was not keen to work for couple of hours just to discover that the battery is faulty. I had an almost instant reply on the email (kudos to them) and they adviced me to go ahead and install the new battery as the voltage measured when battery is not connected is not relevant.
I took a leap of faith and after two hours… the new battery showed 50% charge and everything seems to be working just fine. I am happy it worked.
Mircea Comanici - Réponse
After removing the old battery and installing the new battery I powered up the MBP before screwing the bottom on. I discovered the my keyboard would not function. It took a few hours of investigation and frustration that I discovered the track pad power ribbon had become partially dislodged from the trackpad. I was able to see that this through the little machined slot where the battery sat. I had to remove the trackpad to reinsert the power ribbon back into the connector in the trackpad. after reassembling and reinstalling the battery etc the keyboard worked. Just food for thought if your run into the keyboard issue.
Ed Mease - Réponse
This should be the default. IMO I tell you to power on - not the lid.
G Sena - Réponse
Est ce que cela fonctionne sur un macbook pro 2017 sans touchbar ?
maël muzelet - Réponse
Bonjour Maël, oui, ce tutoriel concerne "les MacBook Pro 2016 (et plus récents) et les MacBook Retina 12" 2017 (et plus récents)"
Claire Miesch -
Excellent instructions. I was able to follow and install the new screen. I recommend that you get a good set of tools before you begin. I started with an inexpensive repair kit bought online. The Penta and torx bits failed. I bought an IFIXIT kit with quality bits and I was able to do everything I needed.
Tom Markham - Réponse
If you're not running an admin account the sudo command won't work (which honestly, you should not be running admin). Rather than logging in to your admin amount via the OS, in the terminal type "login [admin username]," then the password and you'll be able to do the sudo command as described above. Once you're complete, type "logout [admin username]" and you'll be good to go. Obviously replace [admin username] with whatever the account name for your admin user is.
arichard2401 - Réponse
For those unable to complete this step because the screen is too damaged I recommend leaving your macbook on until the battery dies.
Nicholas R Licato - Réponse
Just replaced my 2018 15" MBP battery. Running Sonoma.
I found no way to disable AutoBoot (The status can be checked in the Power section of system report).
Anyway, i left my battery completely drain before opening the MBP, and had no issues during the process.
Cédric Bontems - Réponse
After sending this command in terminal when I checked what happens if I now open the lid, instead the screen lit slightly up (still black) then a battery symbol showing the charging state showed up.
Now, after replacement of the battery, this is all I get to see.
No reset of NVRAM nor PRAM helped.
Currently the new battery charges (58% atm) and it feels like it‘s mocking me.
webrockers - Réponse
I suspected the keyboard or TouchID sensor wouldn’t work, so I went on and checked every connector.
I missed connecting the left TouchID sensor from step 31.
webrockers -