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Pièces & Outils

Introduction

Utilisez ce tutoriel pour retirer et remplacer en toute sécurité la batterie collée dans votre MacBook Pro à l'aide du kit de remplacement de batterie iFixit. Le dissolvant pour adhésif de votre kit dissout l'adhésif fixant la batterie, ce qui vous permettra de la retirer aisément.

Le dissolvant pour adhésif d'iFixit est extrêmement inflammable. Travaillez dans un endroit bien ventilé. Ne fumez pas, et ne travaillez pas à côté d'une flamme à découvert.

Pour votre sécurité, déchargez la batterie de votre MacBook avant de commencer cette procédure. Une batterie lithium-ion peut causer un feu dangereux et incontrôlable si elle est percée accidentellement. Si votre batterie a gonflé, prenez les précautions appropriées.

Remarque : le dissolvant utilisé pour dissoudre l'adhésif de la batterie risque d'endommager les haut-parleurs en cas de contact avec les boîtiers en plastique des haut-parleurs. Ce tutoriel vous donne les instructions nécessaires pour retirer les haut-parleurs avant de continuer avec la batterie.

  1. Dévissez les vis Pentalobe P5 suivantes fixant le boîtier inférieur au MacBook Pro :
    • Dévissez les vis Pentalobe P5 suivantes fixant le boîtier inférieur au MacBook Pro :

    • Huit vis de 3,0 mm

    • Deux vis de 2,3 mm

    To remove the back panel there are two different pentalobe screws 2.3mm and 3mm however on the tools list there is only one screwdriver. Will I be able to remove both screws with the same screwdriver?

    lantzero - Réponse

    In my case it worked. Don't know if it was a 2,3 or 3 mm screwdriver

    Christian Mohr -

    The 2.0 and 2.3 mm measurements are screw lengths, the screw heads are the same sized P5 pentalobe heads. We include the screw lengths so you don't put the wrong screws in the wrong places and end up with screw heads poking out of your device. Hope that clears up some confusion =)

    Sam Goldheart -

    Yes the same screwdriver will remove both screws, the difference in screws I believe is the length and width but the head is the same.

    Mike -

    will this unit work with the Mid 2012 Macbook Pro Retina's as well?

    drscottgreenwell - Réponse

    Same question...anyone know? Damaged my 2012 board and if possible would like to upgrade to this unit

    cloughenough -

    This works for rMBP 2012 late

    iyeori -

    Woohoo, much easier than I thought... Just got confused with the bottom case screw driver but after figure out it was P5 then everything went smooth.... One thing I wanted to upgrade was the wifi to ac and got one on ebay!

    didierma - Réponse

    If you have 54 Bit Driver kit, please use Star 5 driver to remove screw for rMBP 2012 Late

    iyeori - Réponse

    Where can I find the driver for the MacBook Pro Retina Display 15'4 i7 on your website iFixit please.

    Epifanio - Réponse

    It took about 40 minutes due to an extreme measure of caution but I did it! The only real difficulty was reattaching the screen to the base (yes you have to pry the hinges open) and re-connecting the camera wires. After a few tries the camera wires finally came together. I'm hating Apple for all it's frailty and magical screws but I love ifixit!

    floyd - Réponse

    Simple guide, but it solved my problem. Was wondering why the top two screws weren't going all the way down. Hadn't realized they were 0.7mm shorter.

    Emilio Mejia - Réponse

    I have BootCamp running Win7 on my MBPwRetina15" 2013'Late. I run Visual Studio to build and run my Company's Application which is very CPU & NVidia (specific) intensive. So much so that during a build & run of app I was averaging about 85~95+Celcius!!! And every so often would reach 100Celcius!!! I could not take it anymore so I decided to delve into and re-apply Thermal Paste on the CPU/GPU. I ended up going with CooLaboratory Liquid Pro instead of the traditonal AS5. The original Thermal Paste was pure garbage,,, part of the CPU seemed like it was missing TP. I was scared to do this but it turned out easier than I had imagined. I am currently building the same application and can already observe that the temps average about 75~85 and once in a while will reach 90Celcius. So I am seeing about a 10~15 degree drop in Temps and that makes me very happy!

    Alvaro Suarez - Réponse

    Nice to hear that, i was looking for that kind of information. I have a MBPwRetina 15 Mid 2012 and looking to obtain the best performance!

    Jose David Valle -

    Woa! Thanks dude! And you follow some guides here for the thermal paste? My mac 15’’ early 2013 heats up a lot but I’m a bit worried about touching anything

    Bert0ld0 -

    Good to list the bit needed to open the case: P6

    brian2burnett - Réponse

    Much easier than expected. Sounds like several people had trouble with the backlight. It is possible that they damaged something by not first making sure to power down the computer completely with the “Shut Down” command. This should be step 1 before removing the back cover screws. Also as noted all the back cover screws are Apple Pentelope #5 bit, but 2 of the screws are shorter than the others. This bit is is hard to find in most stores. Buy it on line along with the Tork #5 and #8. 11/21/2017

    Walt Goede - Réponse

    Replaced my Magsafe 2 yesterday and it works perfectly on my MBP 15” ea13. However, when I plugged in the charger I heard the startup sound twice and then I got to the login page where I realized the keyboard didn’t respond.

    So I thought I should restart the computer so I clicked ”shut down”. But the keyboard is dead. I can’t start it. I haven’t tried to use a USB-keyboard yet..

    Any ideas what may have caused this to happen and what component ”handles” the keyboard? Thanks

    /JD

    Jakob Dahlin - Réponse

    Not sure if this has been listed.

    PRO TIPS from a non-pro:

    1 - Keep screws separated and labeled by step # and size.

    2 - Be very careful to get screws in properly threaded, its VERY easy to strip the ccrew holes and screws. Especially the case. Not that it happened to me…

    3 - It was impossible for me to get all the adhesive off the case from under battery, it left a lot on w/o issue (yet).

    4 - Make sure you have Aluminium Foil before starting!

    5 - Upgrade the SSD or HDD while your in there!

    erin - Réponse

    Do we remove the logic board purely to get the speaker enclosures out and away from the acetone? Or does it physically block getting the batteries out? Ie. if I wanted to risk the damage to the speakers, could I jump straight to step 34?

    Obviously I don’t want to melt the speakers, but I’m kinda weighing that risk against losing a screw or breaking a connector…

    Michael Ferenduros - Réponse

    So I did take the risk and swapped out the battery without doing the logic-board + speaker removal.

    Before applying the acetone I put tape on the exposed sides of the speaker-enclosures as best I could - I wrapped the tape, sticky side out, around a card, slid it into the gap, and pressed it onto the speakers. And when applying the acetone, I squirted it as gently as possible onto the side of the battery and let it run down the side, which seemed to help avoid getting too much on the speakers.

    The speaker’s plastic turned white in the spots where the acetone touched it, but it looked like surface damage only. Otherwise it was a nice and smooth procedure.

    Your milage may vary, obviously.

    Michael Ferenduros -

    I changed the battery pack as well without removing the logic board etc. It helped, that the batteries already were swollen, thus access to the glue stripes was easier. It works, if you give a little tension, pulling a pack upwards, and then work with a small blade or knife, and cut the glue stripes. It may take a while, but much less time than dismantling the whole macbook. If you don’t hurry, and don’t apply too much force, you will not damage anything. Beside the 10 cover screws you only have to loose 2 screws for the battery connector. After removing the old pack I used Methanol to remove the glue. I prefer this solvent to Acetone, because it’s less or not harmful to plastic (however, no warranty, just my personal experience). I was able to finish the work in 40 minutes, although it was the first time I opened my Macbook. Well, I am an engineer, that helps, but with dismantling all boards it definitely would have taken double the time. And more risks to break a plug or make a mistake while reassembling.

    Heinrich Jung -

    Success. I needed to replace the right speaker. I thought I was ready at step 22 (you are able to replace the left speaker at this point… but but the right) To replace the right I continued thru step 29 but didn’t completely remove the motherboard. I just lifted it enough to remove and replace the right speaker cable.

    Read all of the comments and solved many problems. Thanks to I-fixit, Walter Galen and all who posted comments.

    Will Brecht - 03/02/2019

    Will Brecht - Réponse

    1/2

    If you're taking the shortcut (nylon, wire…and no adhesive for battery removal (you'll def need to remove the adhesive once the battery pack is removed) things to note:

    1 The adhesive may still be pretty strong. Mine was and I broke several wires trying to do the cheese cutter move down the back of the middle two batteries

    2 if you're cheese cutting through the adhesive, when you get to the base, don't go too far. I did and severed the battery cell connector… disconcerting puff of smoke.

    Ruairi Kennedy - Réponse

    2/2

    3 the you tube video dude was lucky not to have his two Central batteries adhered . Mine were stuck fast.

    4 don't forget about the two small T 5 screws to the left and right of the battery head board, just below the main battery connector.

    5 the Track Pad sits behind the two central batteries. The batteries are adhered to a flat plate that protects the Track Pad which is pretty resilient. You can do the cheese wire trick without cutting through anything you shouldn't. However be careful if you're using a spudger or other tool between the two centre batteries at the top of the T. This is where the Track Pad connector (its very flat and exposed) to the motherboard.

    6 seems obvious when it's written , but you will need the adhesive remover if you are interested in removing the adhesive. It's a work out.

    Ruairi Kennedy - Réponse

    I just completed this successfully. The guide was great, and I recommend reading each of the steps’ comments, too. It is possible to cut out a majority of the steps outlined here if you’d rather not dismantle most of your laptop. As I’m a novice and this was the first difficult fix I’d ever tried, the idea of taking so many things apart — including removing the logic board — was a little scary. Everyone calculates risk and reward differently, but for me, the risk of removing the logic board for the reward of being able to remove the battery packs with adhesive remover was too great, so I opted to only do steps 1–4, 42–53 and removed the battery with one of the cards from iFixit’s kit. If you go this route, expect it to be a little frustrating & slow going — it took me around 20–30 minutes of slowly chipping away at the adhesive with only the card. There are other techniques out there (wire, fishing line, etc.) and I’d advise looking into them. Keep track of screws: tape, draw out diagrams, label them, etc.

    Jake Thornberry - Réponse

    Hi. I got your beautiful guide and I got a toolkit, unfortunately not the ifix it and everything is ready to start the operation. But the P5 seems to be too big for the screws of my late 2013 a1398. Are there more than one types/ sizes of P5?

    Chrysovalantis Lamprianidis - Réponse

    I only removed the 10 screws and the back panel, the 5 speaker’s screws (without removing the speakers), and the two battery screws, and managed to remove the battery package without undoing anything else. I used a member card (credit card type) to loosen the adhesives under the batteries.

    To remove the rest of the glue, I soaked it with something called Label Off from Biltema (Nordic). Finally, I used methylated spirit (rødsprit) to clean it all up and let it dry for 5 minutes before assembling the new battery pack.

    Andreas H. Parlow - Réponse

    WAIT!.. STOP.

    iFixit has had a slew of defective batteries that they will require you take out and return (after gluing them in). Search on: "Battery percentage suddenly drops" here on this site. This process is 50 steps to get the new battery in, and another 50 to put all the parts back. For $199, Apple will do the whole repair, warranty it, and also replace the trackpad and the keyboard (because it's easier for THEM to do).

    Ifixit WILL NOT stand behind defective batteries unless you spend another 4-6 hours swapping in a new one. NOT. WORTH. IT. See posts here (Battery percentage suddenly drops from ~60% to 7%) on frustrated customer’s multiple attempts and class-action lawsuits.

    MFMauceri - Réponse

  2. En commençant par le bord le plus proche de la charnière, ôtez le boîtier inférieur du MacBook Pro.
    • En commençant par le bord le plus proche de la charnière, ôtez le boîtier inférieur du MacBook Pro.

    • Mettez le boitier inférieur de côté.

    Does anyone noticed that the bottom cover and the bottom case is actually linked with the black plastic near the battery?! After the first time you open the cover, it will be impossible to put it back to the original place. Does the critical?! Thanks a lot for informing

    jamiegan835 - Réponse

    I was able to simply push and click those clips back into place before I did the screwing.

    Tim Peat -

    I truly believe this is placebo and the 10*C difference is because in the process the dust was removed from the fan/heat sink rather then the thermal "magic" paste.

    This is a "PC" habit.

    On the other hand, all the cases and protections out there have a bad effect on cooling (not sleeves or pouches) because the whole aluminum body helps dissipate heat.

    I've never had any problems with any mac regarding heat (they do get hot, but it is OK).

    Whenever you feel heat from electronic device means the heat radiates away from it.. which means the cooling is doing a good job :).

    crus - Réponse

    Hey,

    Writing about dust and dirt, do you know any cleaning products for the interior of the mac. i mean how do you clean your laptop, pc, etc..

    Regards

    Jose David Valle -

    This is untrue. Over time thermal paste will dry up and crack and not provide good coverage between the device and the cooler. The paste massively improves the thermal transfer between the chip and the heatsink. If you do not believe in the magic paste then you should wipe it all off and apply just a little bit or none at all and then compare temperatures. You will see the paste is responsible for a big reduction in temperature.

    Andrew Fox -

    I was able to remove all screws but lower case is not comming off easly. Is it glued to somthing?

    Thanks for help.

    c4rlosv8 - Réponse

    There are two clips in the centre which simply unclip with a little force.

    Tim Peat -

    If you are following this how-to because liquid/coffee splashed in through the back vents, WAIT UNTIL THE END to clean any liquid spills on the bottom panel. Use them as your map for cleaning and QA guide for checking until you are finished with your cleanup of logic board and other items.

    auntialias - Réponse

  3. Tirez vers l'arrière l'autocollant d'avertissement qui recouvre le connecteur de batterie.
    • Tirez vers l'arrière l'autocollant d'avertissement qui recouvre le connecteur de batterie.

    For rMBP 2012 Late, you don't need to remove this sticker.

    iyeori - Réponse

    Have laptop charging issues after this. When fully charged and i plug in magsafe it starts with green, then turns red and stays red (like if it was charging). Status bar says NOT charging. If i use battery a little bit (down to 69%) magsafe does the same (green then stay red). Status bar says battery 69% NOT charging. and it seems to be true. Any suggestions?

    g000phy - Réponse

    Double check the connection from the battery to the logic board and the logic board socket itself... Might have damaged by disconnect/reconnect.

    max damage -

    Why is this step necessary?

    67b5ebab - Réponse

    67b5ebab Good question !

    Why is this necessary ?

    bigb19791979 - Réponse

    This step is necessary to prevent any discharging, arcing, friction/static charges from damaging any of the extremely delicate and intricate parts of this (or most any) electrical system. In practice, you should even be wearing an anti-static band or be working on an anti-static bench even with the battery disconnected so your body doesn't create any unintentional charges.

    One of the first things you should learn in electronics repair and and electrical in general is to cut the power source whenever possible before performing any work. Some systems have schedulers/triggers set that will wake the system up (even when closed) to perform updates and other maintenance tasks as to not eat up CPU and RAM during 'peak hours'. The last thing you need is to have your $2,000 laptop turn on while pulling an SSD (which, correct me if wrong, isn't a plug-and-play based device) which could do some serious corruption and/or damage; when all you had to do was peel a sticker and plug.

    Hope that helps!!

    ~the more you know~

    Colin Devenney - Réponse

    I did not peel back the sticker. It is probably there to help unplug the battery. You can apply a gentle constant pull while you use spudger to lift the battery connector out of the socket as per the next step. It made this very easy.

    Achilles - Réponse

    There is another connector here on mine, just to the left and up above the text on the battery sticker. It is an empty ZIPF socket on all these photos.

    Richard C - Réponse

  4. Avec l'extrémité plate d'une spatule (spudger), soulevez délicatement le connecteur de batterie vers le haut hors de sa prise sur la carte mère. Repliez les câbles de la batterie vers l'arrière et de côté afin que le connecteur de batterie ne touche pas accidentellement la carte mère.
    • Avec l'extrémité plate d'une spatule (spudger), soulevez délicatement le connecteur de batterie vers le haut hors de sa prise sur la carte mère.

    • Repliez les câbles de la batterie vers l'arrière et de côté afin que le connecteur de batterie ne touche pas accidentellement la carte mère.

    I ordered the whole kit, but seeing how much tedious effort it was to take out so many parts so they wouldn't be damaged by the solvent, I skipped from here to step 34 and only used the supplied cards (credit-card sized) with patience and persistence to free the battery sections from the backing. Success! Then I used a q-tip to apply the solvent to remove the remnants of the adhesive from the aluminum case. My battery was very swollen, so it was like removing little pillows. I think the swelling may have helped to give me additional access with the cards to free it. Success! My MBP is back up and running, and now the trackpad clicks again and it sits flat on a table!

    Joel Replogle - Réponse

    So no need basically to unscrew all the mac

    Bert0ld0 -

    Joel - the purpose of all of the trouble in removing the logic board is to make sure that you don’t damage anything when you start pull out the battery. After this step - it’s true, you have about 12 connectors and dozens of screws to unplug, but I didn’t have any major problems.

    REASSEMBLY - I had to use alot of force to get the official IFIXIT battery connect to push into place to actually connect. I was worried that one of the wires would stress and break. It worked, but it was not super easy this part.

    Jer - Réponse

    I also skipped down to step 50. I stuck a piece of 1/2 inch weather stripping across the middle of the top cover of the laptop to maintain a pitch on the unit so the adhesive remover stayed away from the other components. I applied the remover and used a piece of string to cut through the adhesive strips. I owed the plastic tool from the kit to position the string behind the top of each cell and cut through one ata a time. The battery came out in about 15 minutes. The directions were very informative and useful but I thought the risks associated with dismantling the laptop and reassembling it again were greater. I could not have done it without the details presented. Thank you.

    Thomas Horan - Réponse

    Having broken a connector on a logic board in the past, I worried about all the steps. But I understand the disaster that can occur if cleaning fluid contacts the logic board. Weighing costs and benefits, I also did not remove the logic board. I loosened up the speakers (since only two screws could be removed) to give me space to slide the cards under the battery cells. Using the two cards, sometimes sliding one over the other, I was able to remove the battery in 15- 20 minutes. Removing the remaining adhesive was VERY tedious. Eventually I settled on CAREFULLY applying small amounts of remover with the syringe and using the spudger (both pointy and broad ends) to scrape the remainders off. I cleaned the residual with Q-tips dipped in remover (buy a big box of Q-tips), refastened the speakers, installed the new battery, closed the case and voila.

    James Suojanen - Réponse

    Question, on the first image above you can read a serial and other information ... The creator of the guide could you confirm if it corresponds exactly to the Apple serial on the box? I wonder why I had the laptop in assistance to replace the GPU, and other problems were born once I returned ... to which removed the cover I saw this sticker and I immediately had doubts about it.

    Antonino Auteri - Réponse

    I too found the need to completely teardown the laptop onerous and risky. I’m not certified in anything hardware but I’ve been doing my own repairs for a while. I watched the video referenced above and read the comments there. With some changes, here is what I did, which worked perfectly and minimized the risk, for a whole additional $3 in parts, just myself and in under an hour:

    1. Go to hardware store and get 2 4” bolts ($1 each) and a coil of 20 gauage galvanized wire.

    2. Wrap one end of the wire a few times around one bolt, then tie it off with a knot. Do the same with the other bolt, leaving about 10” of wire between the two.

    3. Follow steps 1-4 in this guide

    4. Slip the wire under one of the outer batteries (use a card or spudger to help get the wire underneath

    5. Grip both bolts with one hand and rock them back and forth, pulling the wire under the battery, using your other hand to hold the case. This should take about 2 seconds (seriously). Repeat for other outer batteries

    (continued)

    steve - Réponse

    6. Pull the plastic frames away from the left and right sides of the center batteries.

    7. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for the two center batteries.

    8. Jump to step 55, then reassemble.

    Note: when installing the new battery, ensure the part closest to you is UNDER the two plastic tabs.

    Worked perfectly.

    Link to video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fupkPz55...

    Note: using the nylon thread with that much effort is crazy. Use the wire or fishing line.

    steve - Réponse

    cool.

    removed everything and have now 88% after 2 times calibrating and smc reset

    wouldn’t have liked to do everything again, but this seems like a possible solution :)

    Dennis Britsch -

    i just got my Kit and started the procedure, i decided to try if i can get the bulged batteries out with a fishing line, which worked fine. No need to use any solvent and even not too much force was needed to get the line under the batteries. I was able to remove the batteries in about 5min, used another 10min to clean the case from the residue, and put in the new battery. All togehter about 20min of work. I´m very happy with the result, Macbook stays now back on its feet, closes correctly and trackpad works as expected.

    manu - Réponse

    Also departed from procedure immediately after STEP # 4 as per JOEL’s recommendation …used a small chunk of fishing line and it worked sans solvent…easily ! Spudger worked quite well to initially position the string /line & the ifixit ( ‘credit’ ) cards were nice for final dislodging of each battery segment from the last bits of residual gooey adhesive , AFTER working the fishing line back & forth down the length of the battery as much as possible. With the old battery out of the way, I used a razor blade to clean out the remaining bits of adhesive gunk. ( Decided NOT to use solvent here, either.) Took me every bit of 1-hour.

    One thing that helped ,too, was a cheap pair of cotton gloves coated on the palm side w/ latex. This kept my fingers comfortable from the pressure of the fishing line & allowed more of a range of force …since I wasn’t wincing from saw-cutting myself !

    John Joslin - Réponse

    I skipped steps 5-33. These steps are completely unnecessary. I used the back of a flat tweezers to separate the battery from the case.

    support64 - Réponse

    so the only reason they are taking all the stuff off before the battery is because of the solvent?

    I used cards and dental floss and just took the battery out … It was a pain in the butt but i got it out with out using the solvent remover solution.

    GR Verner - Réponse

    I skipped steps from 5 to 33 and directlychanged the battery (before disassembling all). Worked fine.

    derdietrich - Réponse

  5. Utilisez une spatule ou une pincette pour retirer les trois tables d'antenne AirPort de leurs prises sur la carte AirPort.
    • Utilisez une spatule ou une pincette pour retirer les trois tables d'antenne AirPort de leurs prises sur la carte AirPort.

    • Les points de connexion sont fragiles. Veillez à ne soulever qu'au niveau du connecteur et non pas de la prise ou du câble.

    • Pour rebrancher les câbles, alignez les connecteurs au dessus de leurs prises et appuyez fermement avec le côté plat de votre spatule.

    will this procedure remove my warranty? I have applecare for another 2 years, Laptop was dropped on the side, there is a very small dent on the side of I/O.

    Oleg Babko - Réponse

    Yes, this voids your warranty.

    max damage -

    If I am facing the MacBook like I'm surfing or typing, this I/O board is referring to which side of the MacBook? Left or right side? How about replacing the other side of I/O board? The other side I/O port are part of LogicBoard? If I want to replace it, need to replace the whole LogicBoard? TQ.

    Delta - Réponse

    These are notoriously difficult to remove. I actually damaged 2/3 of the connector pins during the process. Thankfully i was still able to fit them in place. This step should not be underestimated.

    Alvin Chua - Réponse

    If you are not replacing the display case assembly, you can opt to leave all 3 connectors attached and remove the Airport card with them connected. You will need to carefully manage the card and attached cables so as not to damage them(masking tape) as you proceed with disassembly/reassembly. Step 6 will need to be done carefully (camera cable connector). I did it after step 8. I took a picture of routed cables as well before I removed them from channel.

    lamajr -

    I damaged 1/3 of these litte guys, how did you get them back together?!

    is there a way to replace the antenna?

    Fabian Schweinfurth - Réponse

    unless you have really tiny fingers, a tweezer helps, just be careful not to damage the wires or the board as your holding each cable in place. Oh and take your time - this is like the most frustrating step in the process, imo.

    Arn Custodio - Réponse

    The order of the cables doesn't seem to matter when re-attaching. It also might be helpful to unscrew and eject the airport card. Having it free can give you a better angle.

    joey - Réponse

    Definitely the hardest step (when putting it back together). The three pins were on progressively longer plugs, so I put the shortest one on the left and so on. This helps with getting the right angle. I used my fingers and the spudger to guide them back in. It took me easily 10-15 minutes to do this. The pattern that worked eventually was to first adjust the angle of the pin head so that it's x/y/z axes would line up perfectly with the connection if you are able to bring it together just so. If you're off on any of these while you try to bring it together, you won't be able to just click it down at the end. Good luck!

    Thomas Kunjappu - Réponse

    Agreed, for some reason, the middle one was stubborn — and I was worried the amount of force I applied to push it back on was going to break something - but it did pop back on.

    Jer -

    I would never remove those tiny plugs unless I absolutely have to. And we do not have to remove them, just the card itself…

    Jurgen -

    After reading so many reviews on ifixit and other sites regarding the difficulty of replacing my MacBook Pro retina screen assembly, I was a bit nervous. Using this walk through made it super easy. Thank you so much for taking the time to create it!

    cabcpa - Réponse

    Removing these 3 tiny cables is completely unnecessary. I removed my fan last week to clean and it slips by these cables. For some dumb reason i wanted to follow this "correct" procedure and now one of the gold connections detached from the wire like it was nothing. Seriously, dont do this. I used a spunger and was very delicate putting it back on... And look what happened. SKIP!

    travismlive - Réponse

    Yeah, I agree, just leave the airport card attached to the pins and remove the card itself. Then you won’t have to fuss with these connectors.

    Jer -

    @tmm Your right on! Just finished replacing my right fan and your tip saved me from messing with these tiny cables. I totally understand your frustration as I was too just about to stick to the procedure, but if it’s any comfort your tip helped someone… so don’t be surprised being rewarded by some good karma :)

    IT’S UNNECESSARY TO DETACH THE 3 TINY CABLES FROM THE CARD, JUST DETACH THE AIRPORT CARD WITH IT’S CABLES ATTACHED BY GRABING IT FROM BOTH SIDES USING TWO FINGERS AND GENTLY SHAKE IT UNTIL IT DETACHES. THEN MOVE THE WHOLE THING A BIT ASIDE.

    THIS STEP IS ONLY NECESSARY TO MAKE WAY TO THE FAN CONNECTOR UNDERNEATH.

    There is one thing though I find missing which concerns:

    1)The rubber heat sink cover

    2 The AirPort/Camera cables

    3)The IO board cable

    All these are “glued” to the fan and you need to peel them off gently using the spudger, now while I noticed that some glue remains on each cable so they will kinda stick again, I wonder what kind of glue is this and where one can buy it?

    Itai -

    These individual instructions are re-used across multiple tutorials. If you are replacing the battery, you probably won’t need to remove the three connections from the Airport card; if you are replacing the display, you definitely need to replace them, because they are connected to the display. I just replaced the battery and the display in a single activity, so I pretty much had to remove everything. Also agree with a previous commentor that it’s easier to reconnect the cables before the card is reconnected to the system board.

    ChrisMBP -

    travismlive is right, you do not need to remove these cables or the airport card. Just remove the I/O board cable, undo the screws, and detach the antenna cables from the fan where they are glued with a spudger. Unlock the ZIF-socket and the you can wriggle the fan out. Probably saved my airport card, thanks travismlive!

    Jasper - Réponse

    I only successfully reattached 1 of the 3 AirPort cables, I just taped the other two. But the AirPort seems to work fine. Do these also have anything to do with Bluetooth though? I do seem to have trouble with Bluetooth after this operation. In any case, it was worth it... I replaced the screen with a new Apple screen for less than 1/2 the Apple Store wanted! Thanks!

    Douglas Johnston - Réponse

    Would soldering them back in place be better than taping? I certainly don't want spare solder on my motherboard, so I figure that'd be a last resort only if I lose AirPort connectivity.

    Douglas Johnston - Réponse

    Assembly is a nightmare. If rightmost cable is not connected, BT will not work.

    Radoslaw Przybyl - Réponse

    the hardest step is reconnecting the airport antenna cables. just have patience< and use tweezers, spluger and a q-tip.

    Frederick Rae - Réponse

    The three cables have different lengths. The longest should to the farthest pin, medium to middle, short to nearest.

    Sam Jomaa - Réponse

    Also, having the right tools will make the job really easy. I used a spudger similar to the one recommended on this web site. But i had ordered a complete kit from amazon.com. I did not have any problem removing or re-attaching the pins.

    Sam Jomaa - Réponse

    tweezers to hold the cable and the flat part of the spudger to push down on the connectors is the easiest way to re-assemble

    Jon Ocampo - Réponse

    Replacing these were the most difficult step I encountered. I finally determined that it took slight back and forth twisting of the cable (from left to right as viewed from above) to cause the connector on the cable to twist into position so it could be pressed down.

    chuck60 - Réponse

    I read your step and you are 100% correct. This helped me tremendously. Thanks!

    Achilles -

    Use leverage with tip of a spudger, it’s not that difficult to pry the cables.

    When you reassemble, use a tweezers to put the connector on the right position and push it down with a finger on the other hand.

    Grab the neck of the cable when using a tweezers.

    eskoo - Réponse

    Several of the people above mentioned not disconnecting these three wires. You must remove and replace these if you are replacing the entire display which is what these instructions are about. This is the most difficult step as others have noted. Just be careful and make sure you have the cable level before you start pushing down.

    Walt Goede - Réponse

    If you are not replacing the display case assembly, you can opt to leave all 3 connectors attached and remove the Airport card with them connected. You will need to carefully manage the card and attached cables so as not to damage them(masking tape) as you proceed with disassembly/reassembly. Step 6 will need to be done carefully (camera cable connector). I did it after step 8. I took a picture of routed cables as well before I removed them from channel.

    lamajr - Réponse

    Reassembling: What makes this so hard? From all appearances I’m just pressing a squat sleeve-and-pin connector down onto the female counterpart. It appears to be circular and therefore not needing to be oriented radially in any particular angle. It doesn’t look hard at all! Does anyone understand what the subtlety is that causes everyone so much grief?

    Chapman Harrison - Réponse

    Reassembling: as so many as commented, this is incredibly hard - and inexplicably so. From all appearances I’m just pressing a squat sleeve-and-pin connector down onto the female counterpart. It doesn’t look hard at all! But I couldn’t do it.

    Here’s what seems to have worked for me: with my left fingertip on the cable holding the connector directly above the female, I used the spudger to press down the flat back of the connector, initially at the top and then sliding along toward the neck. I used normal pressure, and voila, when I lifted the spudger away the wretched wire didn’t spring up again. It was like it wanted to be rocked, or stroked, once, from top to neck, rather than pressed straight down.

    Chapman Harrison - Réponse

    I skipped to step 34. Just pushed up the speakers so that they don’t touch the body.

    Sascha Gl Richy - Réponse

    I totally agree, this step is not tagged contrarely to others while it is the most dedicate !!! 1/ A warning should be added (the 31 comments should have done it…) 2/True it is possible to skip this step. Result for me : 1/3 damaged (the left one). Luckily, everything seems to work airport, bluetooth (so far, I haven’t tried Airdrop yet). Really disappointed by this guide is way below the iFixit’s standard…

    Antochny - Réponse

    Can anyone help me? I would like to replace my speakers. Which steps can i skip?

    Manzil Monabber - Réponse

    I have completed replacing my speakers and this step was not needed at all.

    Manzil Monabber - Réponse

    I just completed the full screen assembly replacement with 90% success I guess. Like many others noted, this was the hardest step, and one them (leftmost) was extra hard, but I eventually got them all back in. However, I don’t have 5G wifi anymore. 2.4 g works fine, bluetooth works fine, and the screen, camera, and mic are all perfectly functioning. I just can’t connect to 5G wifi. Is there a fix for this?

    Aaron C - Réponse

    Absolutely no need to take apart the whole thing, get some strong fishing line and slowly saw the adhesive away. Once the battery is out, (if you are prone to be clumsy just cover/ shield the rest of the computer, than use GOO GONE or the like waiting a couple minutes to scrape out the old adhesive. The only reason they make your take everything out is that they assume you are lazy and will be using the adhesive remover which could damage the rest of the computer if allowed to splatter etc. Just save your self some time and stress, get strong braided fishing line ( works way better than floss or string as it is of a smaller diameter and isn’t smooth and helps the sawing action), and work your way around each cell. This is still way shorter than removing the entire computer and much less likely hood of damaging sensitive connectors.

    Pia Paeh - Réponse

    Putting these 3 cables back was a lot of work. I bent the outer side of the middle cable, but was able to fix it with fine tweezers from the repair kit.

    olegpsh - Réponse

    I did a screen replacement recently using this guide and the disassembly/assembly was fine - very good instructions. But when I turned on the machine there was a very fine flickering, snow-like interference, especially noticeable on black backgrounds. I assumed it was a faulty replacement screen and continued to use it. Recently, I had to change out the battery so I dissasembled the screen again to see if reconnecting it would fix the problem. Now it is perfect. I think the problem was that the left-most (shortest) airport cable connector was touching the black screw next to it on the board and shorting out. Be careful to position this connector well away from that screw.

    rumblefish - Réponse

    I found placing the spunger under the part of the connectors AWAY FROM THE WIRE (top and/or side depending on which of the three you’re finessing), and then rocking them gently from side to side pops them out gently.

    MFMauceri - Réponse

    I read the note above and managed to fold the card out of the way. I’d put it in a paper envelope to stop it touching anything as it flaps around. The bag also stops static build up and reminds you it’s there ! The wires on mine were held down with two strips of tape, the pointed spudger? pushed along the length of the wires widened the tape loop when I pushed firmly but carefully. Once widened, tweezers can open it fully .

    Simon Anthony - Réponse

    I skipped the step of removing the airport antenna cables and removed the airport card with the cables since so many users said it was extremely hard to get the airport cables back on properly. By skipping the airport cable removal I save a lot of potential headaches and performing this task was not any more difficult to do.

    Timothy McDaniel - Réponse

  6. Avec la pointe d'une spatule (spudger), poussez le connecteur de la nappe de la caméra vers le ventilateur et hors de sa prise sur la carte mère.
    • Avec la pointe d'une spatule (spudger), poussez le connecteur de la nappe de la caméra vers le ventilateur et hors de sa prise sur la carte mère.

    • Veillez à pousser parallèlement à la carte, d'abord d'un côté, puis de l'autre pour faire "sortir" le connecteur lentement de sa prise. Ne faites pas levier, sinon vous allez endommager la prise.

    I've broken camera connection socket, is it repairable?

    Sergey - Réponse

    Same for me too just take the socket from your broken screen and cut it off and solder it onto the new screen. It was really hard because it's so small but I did it.

    bhayes9614 -

    This is much easier if you do step 7 first so you can pull lightly on the cable and take the tension off the connection caused by the stiff cable.

    mayer - Réponse

    This tip worked for me.

    eskoo -

    If you are removing the right fan it is not necessary to unplug the camera cable. You can slip the fan out underneath the cable.

    noahtfu - Réponse

    Hi! Camera flex cable is from MBP Retina Mid 2012 & Early 2013. Not Late 2013 :) Edit it please.

    kramerigor - Réponse

    the tip of the middle 3 wire was broken on the replacement screen. I didn't connect it and everything seems to work fine, mac hardware test says everything is fine... Is it possible?

    micheleroger - Réponse

    Yes. They are wifi antenna cables. Missing one antenna won't affect much, and won't show up in any hardware test.

    Jason Amri -

    Push on the little wings, from right to left.

    Julian Wood - Réponse

    This is the hardest part of disassembly! Arguable hardest part of re-assembly too, other than the airport cables

    Jon Ocampo - Réponse

    The instruction is not clear to me at all. Frankly the comments mentioning things make me uneasy about proceeding further.

    Ben Moore - Réponse

    This came off for me - now my computer’s fan is running high constantly, and “Kernel_task” is using 500% of the CPU even though nothing else is running - what can I do?

    Ryan Brown - Réponse

    It is very important to note here that you are NOT pushing up. You are pulling the cable back toward the fan. Doing step 7 first makes that easier. I misunderstood the instruction here (as others seem to have as well) and broke this part. I’m fine with not having a camera on this computer so I’ll leave it or ask my son to help me solder it later.

    Jen Wells - Réponse

    The wing closed to the edge of the chassis is completely stuck. I’ve worked on it for an hour. The other wing moves freely. I’m not sure what to do now.

    Charles Lindauer - Réponse

    The connector is very tight - I couldn’t even see the join between cable end and the socket and couldn’t see the “ears” on the end of the socket. And, of course, pulling didn’t help. I eventually used tweezers to start things off, gripping on the metal of the socket right where the invisible join was. What a delight to have the join open enough to see! After that, it was easy.

    jerryl - Réponse

    Thank You Jerryl - The tweezers did the trick. They want to pop out so you can use your other hand to apply slight downward pressure to keep them in place. Work both ends of the tweezers gently back and forth and you should start to see the gap get bigger.

    Chuck Barton - Réponse

    I used tweezers and the spudger. Take the point of the spudger and push on one side of the “dog ear” while supporting the other side with the closed tweezers on the cable side of the dog ear. (Could use a second spudger) work one side the move to the other repeatedly until the connection disconnects.

    This is allows You to push and support simultaneously and minimize the chance damaging the connector.

    Jonathan Dowling - Réponse

    Removed cover (Step 7). Released adhesive. Pulled directly out of socket to the left.

    Pushing out of this connector is ill advised, as no mechanical ledge to push.

    Joseph Gorse - Réponse

    The late 2013 Macbook connector is slightly different to the picture, I used tweezers to loosen up first and when the joint appeared used the flat edge of the spludger to push the connector using the gap. Don't rush push this from each side gently till it comes out.

    Lanre O - Réponse

    I found this step to be difficult due to the picture and instructions being incorrect for MacBook Late 2013. Unfortunately, I damaged the pins during this step and my camera no longer works. :^( Please update this step.

    Cristina Stoll - Réponse

    @xtstoll I looked at two separate Late 2013 units today, and both are indistinguishable from what’s shown in the instructions. Are you sure you’re working on the right model? A photo of what this cable looks like on your laptop would be helpful.

    Jeff Suovanen - Réponse

    A MAGNIFYING GLASS really helps on this. The cable’s sheathing may need to be pushed back a tad to find a place to get leverace to work the pin out.

    MFMauceri - Réponse

  7. Insérez l'extrémité plate d'une spatule (spudger) sous le cache en caoutchouc du dissipateur de chaleur sur le ventilateur droit. Faites glisser la spatule tout le long du cache, décollant ainsi la bande adhésive. Soulevez le cache et retournez-le de façon à accéder aux nappes en-dessous.
    • Insérez l'extrémité plate d'une spatule (spudger) sous le cache en caoutchouc du dissipateur de chaleur sur le ventilateur droit.

    • Faites glisser la spatule tout le long du cache, décollant ainsi la bande adhésive.

    • Soulevez le cache et retournez-le de façon à accéder aux nappes en-dessous.

    Back (case) side of rubber attachment is flimsy-ish, so need to be delicate when peeling rubber back.

    cahcadden - Réponse

  8. Avec vos doigts, enlevez les nappes Airport et caméra du ventilateur. Les nappes sont collées au ventilateur, dégagez-les donc soigneusement pour éviter de les endommager. Retirez avec soin les nappes du guide-câble en plastique.
    • Avec vos doigts, enlevez les nappes Airport et caméra du ventilateur.

    • Les nappes sont collées au ventilateur, dégagez-les donc soigneusement pour éviter de les endommager.

    • Retirez avec soin les nappes du guide-câble en plastique.

    It's a bit tricky to re-route the cables when you're installing the new display, so pay close attention to how they're originally routed, to make sure you don't pinch them or torque them.

    PriorityMail - Réponse

    Do we need to use some adhesive to paste them back?

    Aniket Suryavanshi - Réponse

    I used scotch tape to temporarily hold the cables in place until I was ready to reinstall the bottom cover, but I removed the tape at that last step (didn’t want it coming loose later, and possibly obstructing a fan).

    ChrisMBP - Réponse

  9. Avec l'extrémité plate d'une spatule, soulevez le connecteur de la carte E/S pour le débrancher de sa prise sur la carte mère. Lors du remontage, reconnectez d'abord cette extrémité car elle ne se plie pas. Procédez de façon similaire pour débrancher le connecteur de la carte E/S de sa prise sur la carte E/S. Ôtez la nappe de la carte E/S du MacBook Pro.
    • Avec l'extrémité plate d'une spatule, soulevez le connecteur de la carte E/S pour le débrancher de sa prise sur la carte mère. Lors du remontage, reconnectez d'abord cette extrémité car elle ne se plie pas.

    • Procédez de façon similaire pour débrancher le connecteur de la carte E/S de sa prise sur la carte E/S.

    • Ôtez la nappe de la carte E/S du MacBook Pro.

    Note that the Mac has been rotated 180º between steps 8 & 9

    peteyx - Réponse

    When reinstalling the io board cable make sure it is the correct way round as in the photo, it fits the wrong way round as well, which results in the MacBook not starting at all.

    bitmat23 - Réponse

    ABSOLUTELY ! I found out the hard way. I took a break, came back to me dead computer and wondered - if - this cable would fit the other way round - and voila ! I wish I had read this note first :-)

    Simon Anthony -

    Sockets are ZIF with releasing levers on the top. If you pull up on the top padding, you will reveal silver lever handels facing the rear of the machine. Pry up on the LEVER to release the pressure, then pull the lever straight up to release the connector from the socket. DO NOT pry under the edge of the connector to remove these or you may damage the ZIF socket. They may have changed these connectors between models, otherwise I don’t know how this was overlooked in the guide.

    hybrid - Réponse

    I just did this and there are no silver lever handles. The connectors just pop off when you pry on them.

    edc - Réponse

    After freeing each end of the I/O cable, it can be left stuck to the right speaker, and then remove them both together in step 14.

    Paul Clarke - Réponse

  10. Dévissez l'unique vis Torx T5 de 2,9 mm fixant la carte AirPort À la carte mère.
    • Dévissez l'unique vis Torx T5 de 2,9 mm fixant la carte AirPort À la carte mère.

  11. Saisissez les bords fins de la carte AirPort et tirez-la parallèlement à la carte mère pour l'ôter du MacBook Pro. Saisissez les bords fins de la carte AirPort et tirez-la parallèlement à la carte mère pour l'ôter du MacBook Pro.
    • Saisissez les bords fins de la carte AirPort et tirez-la parallèlement à la carte mère pour l'ôter du MacBook Pro.

    As others have mentioned, it's not necessary to remove the Airport antenna cables. Leave the cables attached and remove the Airport card.

    Swing the card and the attached cables across the fan.

    stvn chng - Réponse

    You may lift a little like few degrees then pull parallel when removing.

    eskoo - Réponse

    There might be a touch of adhesive, lift first – a gentle touch with the spudger helps.

    Tristan Harward - Réponse

    Yes, lift about 5-10 degrees first, then pull out. If you do not release the adhesive, it may be stuck in place and you could damage the card trying to pull it out.

    hybrid - Réponse

    I will add to what others have said about lifting the card lightly using a spudger to get the adhesive to let go of the board. Otherwise the card may get damaged.

    jeiboussa - Réponse

    Yes. LIFT up slightly on one end to clear retaining pin before tugging.

    MFMauceri - Réponse

  12. Avec la pointe d'une spatule spudger), ouvrez le clapet de retenue de la prise ZIF de la nappe du ventilateur droit. Assurez-vous de faire levier sur le clapet de retenue articulé et non sur la prise elle-même.
    • Avec la pointe d'une spatule spudger), ouvrez le clapet de retenue de la prise ZIF de la nappe du ventilateur droit.

    • Assurez-vous de faire levier sur le clapet de retenue articulé et non sur la prise elle-même.

    • En commençant en haut de la nappe, glissez un outil en plastique sous la nappe du ventilateur droit pour la décoller de la carte mère.

    • Faites attention en décollant la nappe car elle adhère fortement à la carte mère.

    I was able to flip the retaining flap while removing the damaged fan but accidentally dislodged after installing the replacement fan. Again, be very careful at this stage. Thankfully my new fan appears to function normally.

    Alvin Chua - Réponse

    Easier to do while removing fan.

    mayer - Réponse

    The second picture and illustration are not clear enough. The text should say "pry underneath the cable" as I almost broke the fan cable following instruction.

    Kitipong Mork - Réponse

    ZIF = Ziero Insertion Force. Once the tiny retaining flap is up, it should slide out easily toward the back. There was no adhesive on my machine, so the cable slid out easily. But be careful if yours is glued down.

    Don Steele - Réponse

    I don’t know why, but I could pull the connector out & in without flipping up the flap. And fans are working flawlessly.

    eskoo - Réponse

    The pictures were confusing to me so let me add some more context. There is a ZIF socket (Zero insertion force) being addressed in the first picture. This socket has a black top that is currently closed down on the socket. Using your tool you need to lift this flap up to release the wire underneath (This release happens in the second step). Hence only pull up on the black flap enough to make it go from horizontal to vertical (Swing flap). Neither picture shows it in the up position. Step 2, Picture 2, Then gliding your flat spudger, you goal is to lift the wire that was in the ZIF socket out by lightly lifting up on both the wire and the rubber cushion on top of it. Make sure you lift both. You are successful when both are lifted up and out and facing vertical instead of horizontal.

    Frank D - Réponse

    Great clarification, thank you.

    Hunter Gallagher -

    Can anyone advise what to do if the ZIF socket pulls up from the logic board? I was gentle with it, but it pulled up anyway. The fan and ribbon are fine, but I’m worried this will require an expensive logic board repair.

    Jaysmi - Réponse

    To really see which part of the ZIF socket has to be lifted up you should compare the pictures of step 10 and of step 12, preferably in its original size.

    Then you can see that the inner part of the ZIF has to be moved up, away from the batteries.

    Stephan Yaraghchi - Réponse

    I managed to broke the side, thought this was pulling on sides mechanism to release, not just upwards. Luckily I managed to attach it and the fan is working.

    Josip Ricov - Réponse

    Here is video how to open the ZIF socket. https://youtu.be/MQbqpWkCz94?t=360

    Ketut Sandiarsa - Réponse

    Many thanks Ketut, that vid clip really helped!

    Paul Clarke -

  13. Dévissez les trois vis suivantes fixant le ventilateur droit à la carte mère :
    • Dévissez les trois vis suivantes fixant le ventilateur droit à la carte mère :

    • Une vis Torx T5 de 4,4 mm

    • Une vis Torx T5 de 3,9 mm à large tête

    • Une vis Torx T5 de 5,0 mm avec un épaulement de 2 mm

  14. Soulevez le ventilateur droit et ôtez-le du MacBook Pro.
    • Soulevez le ventilateur droit et ôtez-le du MacBook Pro.

    • Lorsque vous remettez le ventilateur, c'est plus facile de reconnecter la nappe du ventilateur pendant que vous mettez le ventilateur en place, plutôt que après l'installation des trois vis du ventilateur.

    Do I need to use thermal paste when installing new fan?

    1 0 - Réponse

  15. Avec l'extrémité plate d'une spatule (spudger), soulevez le cache en caoutchouc du dissipateur de chaleur, qui se trouve sur le ventilateur gauche.
    • Avec l'extrémité plate d'une spatule (spudger), soulevez le cache en caoutchouc du dissipateur de chaleur, qui se trouve sur le ventilateur gauche.

    This came of super easy as the glue seemed to have dried up or something of that nature; anyone know if this is an issue?

    Also it seemed like there are clips on sides of the rubber heat sink which I couldn't work out how to clip it back on, so I placed it back where it was after and it seems to be ok; maybe it isn't meant to clip on hard and rather just to be a security measure. Anyone else had this?

    RT0 - Réponse

    I had the same experience as you this was super easy to remove as well.

    spearson - Réponse

    Glue was long gone. It just flops over by itself.

    Jer - Réponse

    I have this feeling that my “noisi fan” was actually the loose end of this rubber cover. So verify that you insert rubber clips back to its slots on under the edge of the sink.

    Albert Stein - Réponse

  16. Dévissez les trois vis suivantes fixant le ventilateur gauche à la carte mère :
    • Dévissez les trois vis suivantes fixant le ventilateur gauche à la carte mère :

    • Une vis Torx T5 de 4,4 mm

    • Une vis Torx T5 de 5,0 mm avec un épaulement de 2 mm

    • Une vis Torx T5 de 3,9 mm à large tête

    check if screw marking here is right

    Oleg - Réponse

    One 3.9 mm T5 Wide Head Torx screw

    what exactly do you mean by wide head torx screw? Is that another torx screw i should buy?

    best regards,

    Seth

    sethroot - Réponse

    “Wide Head” just refers to the head of the screw being a bit wider than the others. It shouldn’t affect the size of the tool needed. That said, I also was unable to remove this screw with a T5. The screw on mine looked corroded. I ended up using Vampliers (great tool).

    maccentric -

    seems like T5 is the wrong screwdriver for the "3.9 mm T5 Wide Head Torx screw"

    ryanbraganza - Réponse

    T4 seems to have worked for me

    jonathaniscarroll - Réponse

    i tried unscrewing the screw with a yellow circle around it but it is not unscrewing i think it is stripped

    Habib Sy - Réponse

  17. Avec la pointe d'une spatule (spudger), ouvrez le clapet de retenue de la prise ZIF de la nappe du ventilateur gauche. Assurez-vous de faire levier sur le clapet de retenue articulé et non sur la prise elle-même. En commençant par le haut de la nappe, glissez un outil en plastique sous la nappe du ventilateur gauche pour la décoller de la carte mère.
    • Avec la pointe d'une spatule (spudger), ouvrez le clapet de retenue de la prise ZIF de la nappe du ventilateur gauche.

    • Assurez-vous de faire levier sur le clapet de retenue articulé et non sur la prise elle-même.

    • En commençant par le haut de la nappe, glissez un outil en plastique sous la nappe du ventilateur gauche pour la décoller de la carte mère.

    • Faites attention en décollant la nappe car elle adhère fortement à la carte mère. Si nécessaire, utilisez un iOpener ou un sèche-cheveux pour faire chauffer la nappe et ramollir l'adhésif. Cela facilitera le retrait de la nappe.

    • Ôtez le ventilateur gauche de l'appareil.

    • Lorsque vous remettez le ventilateur, il est plus facile de rebrancher la nappe du ventilateur pendant que vous remettez le ventilateur en place plutôt qu'après l'installation des vis du ventilateur.

    a question out of curiosity is it possible to remove that left fan completely and use and external fan instead of it?

    and what is that fan for? is it for CPU or VGA? i noticed someone was referring to that fan as vga's fan.

    Albert Einstein - Réponse

    I can't imagine any scenario why one might want to do that Einstein. An external fan on a laptop? Seriously?

    maccentric - Réponse

    be nice, silly

    Richard RUNGE - Réponse

    I would say that my cable was permanently adhered, or at least requires chemistry to remove the adhesive. Definitely check if fan parts are in stock before attempting to remove the cable that doesn't seem to be coming loose from the motherboard.

    orders - Réponse

    Couldn’t manage to “flip up the retaining flap on the left fan ribbon cable ZIF socket.”, in fact think I may may broken a piece off. In the end just pulled out the cable by sliding it down and out (maybe I did manage to loosen it after all). Cable didn’t appear to be glued down thankfully.

    Chris McKay - Réponse

    Holes on the new fan did not exactly match up and ribbon cable has more tension as a result -

    I had to cut the loop on the mount for the 4.4 mm T5 Torx screw. Not ideal.

    Scott Evans - Réponse

    So, what do I do if I break the connector on the board? Serious question, yes I did it. Now, how do I get the replacement part?

    Amin Shah Gilani - Réponse

    The retaining flat is super fragile. And I doubt there’s any practical way to replace it. Don’t know if the connector still works ok without the flap.

    Steven DeRose - Réponse

    After I exchanged the fan it‘s super noisy. I ordered at the ifixit shop and it seems it works but it‘s just super noisy. Does anyone know why?

    Thanks

    Karsten Hullebeck - Réponse

    I have the same issue with my newly replaced fan…sounds worse than the broken one - will need to check with the ifixit team…

    Markus Meßerschmidt -

    reported this to the support team and got a replacement within one day. The new part works fine - no noise at all, old one is on the way back. Thank you iFixit!

    Markus Meßerschmidt -

  18. Retirez la seule vis Torx T5 de 3,1 mm fixant le SSD sur la carte logique.
    • Retirez la seule vis Torx T5 de 3,1 mm fixant le SSD sur la carte logique.

    When I got to this step I realized the screw was stripped. I'm unsure if it was stripped by my efforts -- I used the prescribed P5 screwdriver that was also used for the other screws, and the screwdriver still works when putting the lid back on.

    So to extract the stripped screw in Step 5 I've ordered iFixit's Precision Screw Extractor Set.

    Now I'm wondering if I also need to find a replacement screw since I probably won't be able to use the stripped one again after it's been extracted? The screw is called: 3.1 mm T5 Torx screw as per this guide .. the best I can find on eBay are screws called: 1,4 X 3,1 mm Torx T5 or 1,5 X 3,1 mm Torx T5 ... will one of these work? Would I be able to just go to a hardware store and find the proper screw or is it a specialty item?

    Lorte Messenger - Réponse

    I'm sure you've long since figured it out, but for the benefit of anyone else reading this, a P5 is not a T5. It's a different screwdriver. The driver for the screws on the outside of the case will not work on the screw holding the SSD. I'm not sure why they left it off in the list of tools at the top.

    Dave Miller -

    The screws on the outside of the case are Pentalobe.

    The screw for the SSD is Torx.

    Both drivers are (now) on the list of required tools.

    (However, my devices both have a T6 head, not T5. May have been after-market.)

    jkgarrett17 -

    For the Macbook Pro Retina 15" Late 2013 models, I've heard the SSD is soldered to the logic board. This guide is for that model, but it doesn't address the soldering issue. Have I just been misinformed on this issue? Has anyone tried it with the late 2013 model yet?

    Elaine - Réponse

    The SSD is not soldered to the board. You maybe thinking of the RAM which is soldered. (thank you apple) *dripping sarcasm*

    Ryan Tucker -

    I was needing to send my mid 2014 15" MacBook Pro in for a keyboard repair, and my company IT department shipped me a loaner of the same model except that it had a smaller SSD in it than mine, and said I should swap the SSDs between the two and then send mine back with the smaller drive in it to get fixed. I've been unable to swap the drives because neither mine nor the loaner (which are both the same model) appear to have a T5 screw holding the SSD in place. Both of them appear to have a T4, not a T5 (whatever it is is smaller than a T5 anyway, so I'm guessing it's a T4). So now I'm on hold until I can find a T4 screwdriver.

    Dave Miller - Réponse

    OK, got the new tool set, and yes, it really is actually a T5 screw, you just need a really sharp driver. My existing T5 driver was getting a little dull on the tip. So make sure you have a really new/precision T5 driver/bit to use (and again I'll point out that ifixit failed to list this tool in the list of needed tools at the top).

    Dave Miller -

    It's definitely a T5, just takes more control vs only strength. I went left and right in small increments while pushing down to let the screwdriver dig in before slowly being able to loosen it up.

    Toan Tran - Réponse

    Both of my A1398 computers (Mid-2012 Retina 15” and Late 2013 Retina 15”) have a screw that my T6 bit fits perfectly. If using a T5 screwdriver/bit makes your screw seem stripped, try the T6.

    (The 2012 was purchased second-hand, and the 2013 was purchased from a dealer known for unauthorized upgrades; it is possible my screws were swapped.)

    jkgarrett17 - Réponse

    I’m pretty certain this screw is a tiny bit larger diameter than the others — I mixed it up and tried to use it elsewhere, and it wouldn’t fit, so IO swapped in another and set this one aside. Later when I got to this point, other screws were too small and wouldn’t grab. So I tried the one I had set aside earlier, and it fit perfectly. That might explain why this one seemed “stripped” to another commentator.

    Steven DeRose - Réponse

  19. Soulevez légèrement le côté le plus à droite du SSD et faites-le glisser tout droit hors de sa prise sur la carte logique. Soulevez légèrement le côté le plus à droite du SSD et faites-le glisser tout droit hors de sa prise sur la carte logique.
    • Soulevez légèrement le côté le plus à droite du SSD et faites-le glisser tout droit hors de sa prise sur la carte logique.

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  21. Utilisez la pointe d'un spudger pour faire basculer le verrouillage du câble de données de la carte E / S et tournez-le vers le côté de la batterie de l'ordinateur. Utilisez l'extrémité plate d'un spudger pour faire glisser le câble de données de la carte E / S directement hors de sa prise sur la carte logique.
    • Utilisez la pointe d'un spudger pour faire basculer le verrouillage du câble de données de la carte E / S et tournez-le vers le côté de la batterie de l'ordinateur.

    • Utilisez l'extrémité plate d'un spudger pour faire glisser le câble de données de la carte E / S directement hors de sa prise sur la carte logique.

    • Ne soulevez pas le câble de données de la carte d'E / S car sa prise est très fragile. Tirez le câble parallèlement à la face de la carte logique.

    This is a difficult step. A few images for the removal of the cable would be good/better

    Robert Jan Lebbink - Réponse

    Yes, a few more detailed pics here would help. Indeed, general pics explaining HOW ALL the plugs and sockets fit would be VERY handy :-)

    Simon Anthony -

    I helped me to use the pliers both to get underneath the canble lock and then push on the wings of the cable.

    Calvin Truong - Réponse

    Used fingers on the cable lock.

    Joseph Gorse - Réponse

  22. Retirez les deux vis Torx T5 de 3,1 mm fixant la carte E / S sur la carte logique. Soulevez soigneusement la carte d'E / S et retirez-la ddv boitier inférieur.
    • Retirez les deux vis Torx T5 de 3,1 mm fixant la carte E / S sur la carte logique.

    • Soulevez soigneusement la carte d'E / S et retirez-la ddv boitier inférieur.

    This did not want to come out. The bottom was really wedged in there good. I had to pry up the bottom part with a screw driver. The funny thing was it was really easy to put back in. *shrug*

    Jer - Réponse

    it actually has an extra screw that needs to be removed.

    Reid Rankin - Réponse

    Thank you. Removing the screw by the heat sink really helped get this board removed.

    Christopher Hofmann -

    It helped me to push the IO board further into the casing and then lifting.

    Calvin Truong - Réponse

    i/o cable was much easier to remove after freeing the i/o board & slightly lifting it. SK

    Stefan Kirchanski - Réponse

    I believe, the IO Board can stay where it is, for logic board replacement..?

    smirgle - Réponse

  23. Utilisez l'extrémité plate d'une spatule (spudger) pour soulever le connecteur du haut-parleur gauche et le retirer de sa prise sur la carte mère. Utilisez la pointe d'une spatule (spudger) pour soulevez le connecteur du haut-parleur droite et le retirer de sa prise sur la carte mère.
    • Utilisez l'extrémité plate d'une spatule (spudger) pour soulever le connecteur du haut-parleur gauche et le retirer de sa prise sur la carte mère.

    • Utilisez la pointe d'une spatule (spudger) pour soulevez le connecteur du haut-parleur droite et le retirer de sa prise sur la carte mère.

    • Veillez à faire levier sur le connecteur et non pas sur la prise elle-même sinon vous risquez d'enlever cette dernière de la carte mère.

    At this point, it should be noted that the author is using two different logic boards through the procedure. Here, for the first time is the difference between a 2.3 GHz board and the 2.6 GHz board. The audio out socket is integral to the 2.3 GHz board. The 2.6 GHz board has a discrete audio out jack that plugs into the logic board. As the disassembly proceeds, the 2.6 board’s audio outlet is unplugged (Step 26/27 pictures note this, but the author doesn’t. So, as I hoped, the 2.3 GHz board can be replaced by a 2.6 GHz board, IF you don’t want an audio out jack!

    David White - Réponse

    Correction. The two boards are NOT compatible. The battery connector and others do not align. A faulty 2.3 GHz logic board is no excuse to get a faster board.

    David White - Réponse

    Note that you should SLIDE not pull these out. Just broke one of them.

    andershegelund - Réponse

    On this model they should be pried straight up from the board as instructed. If your connector looks different from what’s shown in the photos, proceed with caution, verify your model number and make sure you’re following the corresponding guide.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    I totally missed the pry STRAIGHT UP instruction. I tried to slide one out and it sheared from the board, taking one copper trace with it. Poop!

    Peter Kaczkowski - Réponse

    On MID-2014 Retina, they definitely lift up and out.

    MFMauceri - Réponse

  24. Décollez la bande couvrant le connecteur de la nappe du clavier. Utilisez l'extrémité plate d'une spatule (spudger) pour défaire le clapet de retenue sur la prise ZIF de la nappe du clavier. Veillez à faire levier uniquement sur le clapet de retenue et non pas sur la prise elle-même.
    • Décollez la bande couvrant le connecteur de la nappe du clavier.

    • Utilisez l'extrémité plate d'une spatule (spudger) pour défaire le clapet de retenue sur la prise ZIF de la nappe du clavier.

    • Veillez à faire levier uniquement sur le clapet de retenue et non pas sur la prise elle-même.

    • Utilisez l'extrémité plate d'une spatule (spudger) pour pousser la nappe du clavier en dehors de la prise.

    I can't fit the ribbon cable back in the slot. It was hard to take out a well. Any tips? I'm going crazy

    Jennifer McAuliffe - Réponse

    The trick is to align it so that it slides in perfectly straight and level with the surface of the logic board. It's made more difficult by the way the ribbon cable bends around the edge of the logic board, which puts tension on it and makes it harder to align. I usually position it with a finger on each side and then press gently on the top with a spudger or other tool to help level it out. It should slide into place reasonably easily at that point. Good luck!

    Jeff Suovanen -

    For me the angle of this picture was kind of confusing. Just to make sure it is clear, to anyone else (and they don’t break off the protective plastic piece for the pins like I did), the hinged flap is at the opposite end from the ribbon cable. Where the spudger is in the second picture kind of looks like the middle of the part, but no. From the angle these pictures are taken, it is the plastic piece closest to you. I don’t know why it took me so long to figure this out, and I feel like a bit of an idiot for not doing so more quickly. But hey, maybe reading this comment will help someone not make the mistake I did.

    Parker Young - Réponse

    For my MacBook Pro mid 2014, the socket type was a lever. Looking at the battery, carefully lift it so it makes an angle of 90 degrees, then the cable was easily removable.

    Mike Bachman - Réponse

    the tape actually helps remove the cable. Just hold the tape and pull it back towards the battery. The ribbon cable will slide right out. Easy. No tools needed.

    Pranav Singanapalli - Réponse

    I’m so curious about the connector besides it, to the left. It wasn’t used at all, and what was the purpose of it?

    Anders thomasen - Réponse

  25. Utilisez l'extrémité plate d'une spatule (spudger) pour soulever le connecteur de la nappe du trackpad (pavé tactile) et le retirer de sa prise.
    • Utilisez l'extrémité plate d'une spatule (spudger) pour soulever le connecteur de la nappe du trackpad (pavé tactile) et le retirer de sa prise.

  26. Utilisez l'extrémité plate d'une spatule (spudger) pour soulever le connecteur du rétroéclairage du clavier et le retirer de sa prise.
    • Utilisez l'extrémité plate d'une spatule (spudger) pour soulever le connecteur du rétroéclairage du clavier et le retirer de sa prise.

  27. Utilisez la pointe d'une spatule (spudger) ou votre ongle pour défaire le clapet de retenue sur la prise ZIF de la nappe du microphone.
    • Utilisez la pointe d'une spatule (spudger) ou votre ongle pour défaire le clapet de retenue sur la prise ZIF de la nappe du microphone.

    • Veillez à faire levier uniquement sur le clapet de retenue et non pas sur la prise elle-même.

    • Retirez la nappe du microphone de sa prise.

  28. Utilisez la pointe d'une spatule pour défaire le verrouillage de la nappe des données d'écran et faites-le pivoter vers le côté DC-In (CC) de l'ordinateur. Enlevez la nappe des données d'écran tout droit de sa prise sur la carte mère.
    • Utilisez la pointe d'une spatule pour défaire le verrouillage de la nappe des données d'écran et faites-le pivoter vers le côté DC-In (CC) de l'ordinateur.

    • Enlevez la nappe des données d'écran tout droit de sa prise sur la carte mère.

    • Ne soulevez pas la nappe des données d'écran car sa prise est très fragile. Tirez de façon parallèle à la surface de la carte mère.

  29. Utilisez l'extrémité plate d'une spatule (spudger) pour retirer soigneusement la calotte en caoutchouc sur la tête de vis bombée près du connecteur MagSafe 2.
    • Utilisez l'extrémité plate d'une spatule (spudger) pour retirer soigneusement la calotte en caoutchouc sur la tête de vis bombée près du connecteur MagSafe 2.

    This may be a matter of a 2.3GHz vs a 2.6GHz board, but on mine the raised-head screw - and the rubber cover - are on the other side of the black metal whatever it is, about centered relative to the cable connector to its left.

    jerryl - Réponse

    same thing for me too.

    William Corwin - Réponse

  30. Retirez les six vis suivantes fixant la carte mère au boîtier supérieur :
    • Retirez les six vis suivantes fixant la carte mère au boîtier supérieur :

    • Une vis Torx T5 de 3,1 mm

    • Une vis Torx T5 de 2,5 mm

    • Une vis Torx T5 de 5,5 mm à tête bombée argentée

    • Deux vis Torx T5 de 5,7 mm

    • Une vis Torx T5 de 3,8 mm argentée

    There is another screw near the yellow one, the 5.5 mm silver, raised-head T5 Torx screw. I had to remove that too rather than force things.

    Simon Anthony - Réponse

  31. Soulevez la carte mère par le côté le plus proche de la batterie et faites-la pivoter vers le haut du MacBook. Vous devez éventuellement faire glisser la carte mère de quelques millimètres vers la gauche à cause des ports le long du côté droit de la carte mère.
    • Soulevez la carte mère par le côté le plus proche de la batterie et faites-la pivoter vers le haut du MacBook.

    • Vous devez éventuellement faire glisser la carte mère de quelques millimètres vers la gauche à cause des ports le long du côté droit de la carte mère.

    • Utilisez l'extrémité plate d'une spatule (spudger) pour pousser délicatement le connecteur MagSafe de sa prise en bas de la carte mère.

    I wasn't able to get the magsafe connector off easily; it was easier to just remove the 2 screws holding the magsafe port in place, then disconnect it after the the logic board was removed.

    Derek Gelormini - Réponse

    Completely agree. I just did the same.

    ChrisMBP -

    Same here. Removing the MagSafe screws should also be included.

    Christopher Hofmann -

    Agreed, after reading your comment I also simply removed the magsafe connector.

    Bruno Essmann -

    Agree, just did the same. It is safer.

    Pantelidis Pantelis - Réponse

    100% agree, recommend updating this article to suggest removing the mag safe connector at the same time and save the hassle and potential damage trying to remove the connect from the logic board. far easier and safer to simple remove the two screws and lift out the mag safe connector at the same time as the logic board.

    calum.h - Réponse

    Confirmed, I removed the screws of the magboard so the whole magboard was removed together with the logic board at the same time (MacBook Pro mid 2014).

    Mike Bachman - Réponse

    My logic board is stuck on the audio, USB, and TB connectors and the chassis. Turned out it was connectors near the battery connector catching the logic board.

    Joseph Gorse - Réponse

    There’s one more connect next to the SSD socket, that I can’t find mentioned, and is hard to disconnect.

    Steven DeRose - Réponse

    Yes… @StevenDeRose! I had a really hard time getting that connector off because I couldn’t figure out the release mechanism. I ended up prying the connector off the board. %#*@. I guess it’s a speaker connector!!!! Major flaw in the instructions….!!!

    Peter Kaczkowski - Réponse

  32. Retirez la carte mère complète du MacBook Pro.
    • Retirez la carte mère complète du MacBook Pro.

    A little “scotch tape” can be used to hold the various cables out of the way. Then the replacement board almost falls into place.

    David White - Réponse

    Now that I’m done re-assembly, I wish I had paid attention to the second image where all the cables that need to come above the logic board are highlighted in red. I took me three tries of screwing in the logic board in before I properly accounted for all of them

    Albert Einstein - Réponse

    I’d not even seen that pic until I came here to add my comments. Very good point !

    Simon Anthony -

  33. Retirez les trois vis suivantes fixant le haut-parleur gauche au boîtier supérieur : Une vis Torx T5 de 5,6 mm
    • Retirez les trois vis suivantes fixant le haut-parleur gauche au boîtier supérieur :

    • Une vis Torx T5 de 5,6 mm

    • Une vis Torx T5 de 6,9 mm

    • Une vis Torx T5 de 2,6 mm

    • Soulevez le haut-parleur gauche du boîtier supérieur et mettez-le de côté.

    On my MBP there was an adhesive holding the speakers down. So, "lifting" was not exactly accurate.

    Fred Anderson - Réponse

    Yeah there’s a tiny smidgen of glue around the speaker itself. I just slowly put force on it and it ripped off quite easily.

    Jer - Réponse

    I have A1398 15 inch , need to replace or fixed left speaker but i can’t find One 2.6 mm T5 Torx screw(yellow one), any idea what to do here?

    Biswajit Patra - Réponse

    can you get too the speaker without taking the logic board first

    gianguyen1991 - Réponse

    How it possible to get speaker out if system without taking the logic board first?

    Biswajit Patra -

    I only removed the 10 screws and the back panel, the 5 speaker’s screws (without removing the speakers), and the two battery screws, and managed to remove the battery package without undoing anything else. I used a member card (credit card type) to loosen the adhesives under the batteries.

    To remove the rest of the glue, I soaked it with something called Label Off from Biltema (Nordic). Finally, I used methylated spirit (rødsprit) to clean it all up and let it dry for 5 minutes before assembling the new battery pack.

    Andreas H. Parlow - Réponse

    Yeah, it seems that all this complexity is just about protecting the speakers from the acetone… a different solvent might have saved me a LOT of work, and damage to my speaker connection.

    Peter Kaczkowski - Réponse

  34. Retirez les trois vis suivantes fixant le haut-parleur droit au boîtier supérieur : Une vis Torx T5 de 5,6 mm
    • Retirez les trois vis suivantes fixant le haut-parleur droit au boîtier supérieur :

    • Une vis Torx T5 de 5,6 mm

    • Une vis Torx T5 de 6,9 mm

    • Une vis Torx T5 de 2,6 mm

    • Retirez le haut-parleur droit du MacBook Pro.

    My speaker wire was wedged under the edge of the battery. I proceeded to step 35 and removed the two battery screws. This freed up the cable.

    Fred Anderson - Réponse

    Mine was stuck too, and I did what Fred did and waited to step 35 to try and remove the cable. It turned out not to be wedged under anything, but just glued in place.

    Chapman Harrison - Réponse

    I used the flat spudger to loosing the glue underneath the speaker to remove it.

    KC89 - Réponse

    My left Speaker makes ugly noise. do I really have to do all the steps or is it possible to just remove the speaker… I guess, it’s necessary.

    Gerd Herzog - Réponse

    The speaker has quite a lot of plastic that goes under the board at the top end. There is no option but to remove the covering parts. The notes show which steps can be skipped.

    Simon Anthony -

  35. Retirez les deux vis Torx T5 de 3,2 mm fixant la plaque de la batterie.
    • Retirez les deux vis Torx T5 de 3,2 mm fixant la plaque de la batterie.

    I also skipped from step#4 to step #34. I was very careful with the adhesive remover application to keep it from oozing into the speakers and other components by keeping the MB tilted and let gravity do the work. I also took the precaution of protecting display with aluminum foil. I used a plastic putty knife as well to help dislodge the battery cells. Removing adhesive remnants was a PITA. I used the plastic putty knife & liquid adhesive remover to scrape that stuff off. Full process took about 1 HR. Currently calibrating battery. Looks like this repair was a success!

    lamajr - Réponse

    I wish i read this comment 2 hours ago….

    David Pearce -

    It is not so easy to reintall the battery board, i had to push the battery hard.

    I am not completely satisfied

    Pantelidis Pantelis - Réponse

  36. Le dissolvant liquide inclus dans votre kit peut endommager le revêtement antireflet de l'écran de votre MacBook Pro.
    • Le dissolvant liquide inclus dans votre kit peut endommager le revêtement antireflet de l'écran de votre MacBook Pro.

    • Pour protéger votre écran, placez une feuille d'aluminium entre l'écran et le clavier et laissez-la pendant que vous travaillez.

  37. Avec le bord avant du MacBok Pro face à vous, soulevez le côté droit et maintenez-le à l'aide d'un bloc de mousse solide ou d'un livre. Les étapes suivantes vous montrent comment appliquer le dissolvant liquide pour adhésif sur le bord droit (extérieur) de la batterie. Surélever ce côté du MacBook Pro va permettre au dissolvant de couler sous la batterie.
    • Avec le bord avant du MacBok Pro face à vous, soulevez le côté droit et maintenez-le à l'aide d'un bloc de mousse solide ou d'un livre.

    • Les étapes suivantes vous montrent comment appliquer le dissolvant liquide pour adhésif sur le bord droit (extérieur) de la batterie. Surélever ce côté du MacBook Pro va permettre au dissolvant de couler sous la batterie.

  38. A présent, votre MacBook étant bien préparé, il est temps de vous préparer vous-même. Le dissolvant pour adhésif d'iFixit contient de l'acétone qui irrite légèrement la peau et les yeux.
    • A présent, votre MacBook étant bien préparé, il est temps de vous préparer vous-même.

    • Le dissolvant pour adhésif d'iFixit contient de l'acétone qui irrite légèrement la peau et les yeux.

    • Portez des lunettes de protection lorsque vous utilisez le dissolvant. (Les lunettes de protection sont incluses dans le kit.)

    • Ne portez pas de lentilles de contact sans lunettes de protection.

    • Des gants de protection sont également inclus dans votre kit. Si vous craignez des irritations de la peau, mettez-les maintenant.

  39. Retirez le bouchon en caoutchouc noir de votre bouteille de dissolvant. Tournez pour desserrer ou retirez le bouchon applicateur du flacon avant de couper l'embout de l'applicateur. Ceci descellera le flacon et permettra à la pression de s'égaliser avant de couper l'embout de l'applicateur. Si vous sautez cette étape, le dissolvant peut gicler de façon inattendue lorsque vous coupez la pointe.
    • Retirez le bouchon en caoutchouc noir de votre bouteille de dissolvant.

    • Tournez pour desserrer ou retirez le bouchon applicateur du flacon avant de couper l'embout de l'applicateur.

    • Ceci descellera le flacon et permettra à la pression de s'égaliser avant de couper l'embout de l'applicateur. Si vous sautez cette étape, le dissolvant peut gicler de façon inattendue lorsque vous coupez la pointe.

    • Utilisez des ciseaux pour couper a pointe de l'applicateur.

    • Si vous coupez près de la pointe étroite, vous aurez un meilleur contrôle pour appliquer le dissolvant en petites quantités.

    • Fermez bien la bouteille avant de continuer.

    I did not use the adhesive remover. I found that the guitar pic, when forced, could go through the adhesive. It was not long enough, so using a credit card’s corner and forcing it slowly in, and back and forth, I was able to break the adhesive. I assisted this with a very fine fishing line (dental floss would be better) and a sawing motion under the battery. I did not use hard force. I just took my time and kept lifting up on the battery.

    There will be residual adhesive remaining on the computer’s chassis from the battery.. For the most part, this can be removed by a combination of using the card or iFixit guitar pic and pushing against the remaining adhesive. Working at with the fingers will complete the job.

    Just take your time….

    Larry_Rymal - Réponse

  40. Appliquez quelques gouttes de dissolvant de façon régulière le long du bord surélevé de la cellule de batterie droite extérieure. Une petite quantité est suffisante. La petite bouteille contient deux fois plus de dissolvant qu'il vous faut pour enlever toutes les cellules de batterie.
    • Appliquez quelques gouttes de dissolvant de façon régulière le long du bord surélevé de la cellule de batterie droite extérieure.

    • Une petite quantité est suffisante. La petite bouteille contient deux fois plus de dissolvant qu'il vous faut pour enlever toutes les cellules de batterie.

    • Attendez 2-3 minutes pour permettre au dissolvant de pénétrer sous la cellule de batterie avant de passer à la prochaine étape.

  41. Faites glisser une carte en plastique sous le bord extérieur de la cellule de batterie. Faites légèrement pivoter la carte pour créer un petit interstice entre la cellule de batterie et la coque du MacBook Pro. Insérez la carte davantage sous la cellule de batterie pour la décoller de l'adhésif qui la fixe à la coque supérieure du MacBook Pro.
    • Faites glisser une carte en plastique sous le bord extérieur de la cellule de batterie.

    • Faites légèrement pivoter la carte pour créer un petit interstice entre la cellule de batterie et la coque du MacBook Pro.

    • Insérez la carte davantage sous la cellule de batterie pour la décoller de l'adhésif qui la fixe à la coque supérieure du MacBook Pro.

  42. Soulevez la cellule de batterie de la coque supérieure du MacBook Pro, mais n'essayez pas de la retirer. Laissez la carte en plastique sous la cellule de batterie pour éviter qu'elle recolle, puis passez à la prochaine étape.
    • Soulevez la cellule de batterie de la coque supérieure du MacBook Pro, mais n'essayez pas de la retirer.

    • Laissez la carte en plastique sous la cellule de batterie pour éviter qu'elle recolle, puis passez à la prochaine étape.

  43. Appliquez quelques gouttes de dissolvant  de façon régulière le long du bord surélevé de la prochaine cellule de batterie. Attendez 2-3 minutes pour permettre au dissolvant de pénétrer sous la cellule de batterie avant de passer à la prochaine étape.
    • Appliquez quelques gouttes de dissolvant de façon régulière le long du bord surélevé de la prochaine cellule de batterie.

    • Attendez 2-3 minutes pour permettre au dissolvant de pénétrer sous la cellule de batterie avant de passer à la prochaine étape.

  44. Faites glisser un coin de votre carte en plastique sous la deuxième cellule de batterie. Poussez la carte sous la deuxième cellule de batterie et faites-la glisser d'un côté à l'autre pour décoller l'adhésif en dessous. Laissez la carte en plastique sous les deux cellules de batterie (ou bien retournez-les) pour éviter qu'elles recollent lorsque vous passez à la prochaine étape.
    • Faites glisser un coin de votre carte en plastique sous la deuxième cellule de batterie.

    • Poussez la carte sous la deuxième cellule de batterie et faites-la glisser d'un côté à l'autre pour décoller l'adhésif en dessous.

    • Laissez la carte en plastique sous les deux cellules de batterie (ou bien retournez-les) pour éviter qu'elles recollent lorsque vous passez à la prochaine étape.

  45. A présent, il faut changer de côté. Enlevez votre livre ou bloc de mousse et placez-le sous l'autre côté de votre MacBook Pro. Répétez la procédure des étapes précédentes pour séparer les deux cellules de batterie de ce côté : Appliquez votre dissolvant sur le bord surélevé de la cellule de batterie extérieure et attendez 2-3 minutes afin que le dissolvant puisse couler sous la cellule de batterie.
    • A présent, il faut changer de côté. Enlevez votre livre ou bloc de mousse et placez-le sous l'autre côté de votre MacBook Pro.

    • Répétez la procédure des étapes précédentes pour séparer les deux cellules de batterie de ce côté :

    • Appliquez votre dissolvant sur le bord surélevé de la cellule de batterie extérieure et attendez 2-3 minutes afin que le dissolvant puisse couler sous la cellule de batterie.

    • Insérez un coin d'une carte en plastique sous la cellule de batterie et faites-la glisser soigneusement sous la cellule de batterie pour la décoller.

    • Faites de même pour la cellule de batterie à côté.

    • Laissez votre carte en plastique en place ou bien retournez les cellules de batterie pour éviter qu'elles recollent lors des étapes suivantes.

  46. Le bord gauche de votre MacBook étant toujours surélevé, appliquez quelques gouttes de dissolvant dans la fente entre les deux cellules de batterie du milieu. Attendez 2-3 minutes afin que le dissolvant puisse pénétrer avant de continuer.
    • Le bord gauche de votre MacBook étant toujours surélevé, appliquez quelques gouttes de dissolvant dans la fente entre les deux cellules de batterie du milieu.

    • Attendez 2-3 minutes afin que le dissolvant puisse pénétrer avant de continuer.

  47. Faites glisser le coin d'une carte en plastique entre les deux cellules de batterie du milieu et sous le bord surélevé de la cellule de batterie centrale droite. Insérez la carte davantage sous la cellule de batterie pour faire céder l'adhésif qui la maintient. N'essayez pas encore de décoller complètement cette cellule de batterie. Laissez votre carte en plastique en place pour éviter que la cellule de batterie recolle.
    • Faites glisser le coin d'une carte en plastique entre les deux cellules de batterie du milieu et sous le bord surélevé de la cellule de batterie centrale droite.

    • Insérez la carte davantage sous la cellule de batterie pour faire céder l'adhésif qui la maintient.

    • N'essayez pas encore de décoller complètement cette cellule de batterie. Laissez votre carte en plastique en place pour éviter que la cellule de batterie recolle.

  48. Retournez les deux cellules décollées du côté gauche de votre MacBook Pro, si ce n'est pas déjà fait. Ceci vous permettra d'accéder au bord extérieur de la cellule centrale. Retournez les deux cellules décollées du côté gauche de votre MacBook Pro, si ce n'est pas déjà fait. Ceci vous permettra d'accéder au bord extérieur de la cellule centrale. Retournez les deux cellules décollées du côté gauche de votre MacBook Pro, si ce n'est pas déjà fait. Ceci vous permettra d'accéder au bord extérieur de la cellule centrale.
    • Retournez les deux cellules décollées du côté gauche de votre MacBook Pro, si ce n'est pas déjà fait. Ceci vous permettra d'accéder au bord extérieur de la cellule centrale.

  49. Poussez un coin d'une carte en plastique sous le châssis en plastique de la batterie et sous le bord encore collé de la cellule centrale inférieure. N'approchez pas du bord près du connecteur de la batterie, vous risquerez d'endommager la nappe du clavier.
    • Poussez un coin d'une carte en plastique sous le châssis en plastique de la batterie et sous le bord encore collé de la cellule centrale inférieure.

    • N'approchez pas du bord près du connecteur de la batterie, vous risquerez d'endommager la nappe du clavier.

    • Faites glisser votre carte sous toute la cellule de batterie pour éviter que la cellule de batterie recolle.

  50. Retirez la première carte en plastique que vous aviez insérée sous la cellule de batterie centrale droite. Retirez la première carte en plastique que vous aviez insérée sous la cellule de batterie centrale droite.
    • Retirez la première carte en plastique que vous aviez insérée sous la cellule de batterie centrale droite.

  51. Enlevez votre bloc de mousse. Le bord avant du MacBook étant face à vous, soulevez le côté droit et surélevez-le à l'aide du bloc de mousse.
    • Enlevez votre bloc de mousse.

    • Le bord avant du MacBook étant face à vous, soulevez le côté droit et surélevez-le à l'aide du bloc de mousse.

  52. Appliquez quelques gouttes de dissolvant entre les deux cellules centrales afin qu'il coule sous la cellule de batterie restante. Attendez 2-3 minutes avant de continuer afin que le dissolvant puisse pénétrer.
    • Appliquez quelques gouttes de dissolvant entre les deux cellules centrales afin qu'il coule sous la cellule de batterie restante.

    • Attendez 2-3 minutes avant de continuer afin que le dissolvant puisse pénétrer.

  53. Faites glisser un coin d'une carte en plastique sous le bord surélevé de la dernière cellule de batterie. Poussez-la davantage sous la cellule de batterie afin de décoller l'adhésif la maintenant en place. N'essayez pas encore de décoller complètement cette cellule de batterie. Laissez votre carte en plastique en place pour éviter qu'elle recolle.
    • Faites glisser un coin d'une carte en plastique sous le bord surélevé de la dernière cellule de batterie.

    • Poussez-la davantage sous la cellule de batterie afin de décoller l'adhésif la maintenant en place.

    • N'essayez pas encore de décoller complètement cette cellule de batterie. Laissez votre carte en plastique en place pour éviter qu'elle recolle.

  54. Répétez la procédure utilisée auparavant pour la cellule de batterie centrale droite pour faire céder l'adhésif sur la cellule centrale gauche :
    • Répétez la procédure utilisée auparavant pour la cellule de batterie centrale droite pour faire céder l'adhésif sur la cellule centrale gauche :

    • Soulevez et pivotez les deux cellules de batterie extérieures pour pouvoir accéder au dernier bord de la cellule de batterie centrale gauche, toujours collé.

    • Faites glisser votre carte complètement sous la cellule de batterie pour éviter que cette dernière recolle.

    • Enlevez la première carte que vous aviez insérée sous cette cellule de batterie lors de l'étape précédente.

  55. Une carte en plastique étant placée sous chacune des deux cellules de batterie centrales, faites bouger et soulevez les deux cartes pour séparer complètement les deux cellules de batterie, ainsi que le châssis en plastique et la plaque de la  batterie, du MacBook Pro. Une carte en plastique étant placée sous chacune des deux cellules de batterie centrales, faites bouger et soulevez les deux cartes pour séparer complètement les deux cellules de batterie, ainsi que le châssis en plastique et la plaque de la  batterie, du MacBook Pro.
    • Une carte en plastique étant placée sous chacune des deux cellules de batterie centrales, faites bouger et soulevez les deux cartes pour séparer complètement les deux cellules de batterie, ainsi que le châssis en plastique et la plaque de la batterie, du MacBook Pro.

    I have managed to slice through the trackpad cable on the final step of battery removal.

    Can the trackpad be replaced without having to replace the whole system case?

    Darrell Haslam - Réponse

    Yes you can replace the track pad. there is an metal sheet that you’ll need to gently pry up, and a couple screws that hold the track pad. fixit does sell the part.

    allenhild - Réponse

  56. Soulevez et retirez la batterie. Avant d'installer votre nouvelle batterie, enlevez tout résidu de l'ancien adhésif.
    • Soulevez et retirez la batterie.

    • Avant d'installer votre nouvelle batterie, enlevez tout résidu de l'ancien adhésif.

    • Avec un peu de chance, vous pouvez retirer lentement chaque bande adhésive avec vos doigts.

    • Sinon, imprégnez chaque bande adhésive avec un peu de dissolvant pendant 2-3 minutes, puis grattez avec un outil en plastique. Ceci demande pas mal de travail, soyez donc patient.

    • Nettoyez tout dissolvant restant et laissez sécher votre MacBook Pro pendant quelques minutes.

    • La batterie de rechange incluse dans votre kit iFixit est déjà munie de bandes adhésives. Vérifiez bien l'emplacement de la batterie, puis enlevez le film recouvrant l'adhésif et mettez chaque cellule à sa place en enfonçant bien. En cas de films/doublures supplémentaires, absents sur votre batterie d'origine, retirez-les maintenant.

    • Calibrez votre nouvelle batterie avant de l'utiliser : Chargez-la à 100%, puis laissez-la charger encore au moins deux heures. Utilisez votre appareil normalement jusqu'à ce qu'il s'éteint à cause d'une batterie vide. N'oubliez pas de sauvegarder votre travail à temps. Attendez au moins 5 heures, puis rechargez la batterie à 100% sans interruption.

    • Si vous remarquez quoi que ce soit d'inhabituel ou des problèmes après avoir installé votre nouvelle batterie, il faudra peut-être réinitialiser le contrôleur de gestion du système (SMC) de votre Mac.

    Opération effectuée ce jour.

    Ai suivi pas à pas toutes les étapes, c’est LONG, mais c’est BON !

    Merci pour le tutu TRES éclairant.

    H Max - Réponse

    HELP !!!

    Ai un souci : malgré cette manipulation (ci-dessous) et le reset SMC, la batterie passe de 47% à 7% subitement : que faire ???

    Merci

    Calibrez votre nouvelle batterie avant de l'utiliser : Chargez-la à 100%, puis laissez-la charger encore au moins deux heures. Utilisez votre appareil normalement jusqu'à ce qu'il s'éteint à cause d'une batterie vide. N'oubliez pas de sauvegarder votre travail à temps. Attendez au moins 5 heures, puis rechargez la batterie à 100% sans interruption.

    H Max - Réponse

    Bonjour,

    Je suis désolée d’apprendre que la batterie ne fonctionne pas comme prévu ! Si vous l’avez achetée chez iFixit, adressez-vous au service client qui se fera un plaisir de vous aider.

    Bonne journée,

    Claire (iFixit EU)

    Claire Rapp -

    One note from my mid-2014 15” MBP. There is a sheet of black plastic that must be removed from the old battery and installed in between the track pad and the new battery. If you don’t move this over the track pad won’t be able to click.

    chris160 - Réponse

    Re: Mid-2014 15” MBP…

    Soak a paper towel with adhesive remover, and lay it over the residual adhesive in the METAL parts of the cse, and you can remove much more easily (try razor blade). On plastic trackpad base, use plastic tool.

    Also, the torx screw in the center of the trackpad base is your click adjustment. You may want to calibrate that BEFORE putting in the new battery.

    MFMauceri - Réponse

    Removing the logic board is completely unnecessary in my opinion!

    The risk of damaging the board and its components by removing it is much greater, than spilling adhesive remover over the board - if applied correctly.

    To be on the save side, use some paper to cover the logic board and “seal” it of with some electrical tape or something else.

    Then simply apply some adhesive remover periodically along the tip of the included spatula and carefully work your way under each cell of the battery-pack.

    Works great and the pack is removed in under 10 minutes!

    Solution Clinic - Réponse

Conclusion

Pour remonter votre appareil, suivez ces instructions dans l'ordre inverse.

163 autre(s) ont terminé cette réparation.

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Jeff Suovanen

Membre depuis le 06/08/2013

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66 commentaires

This looks amazingly complicated!!! I've seen Youtube videos just removing the battery with solvent, and being careful. Why removing everything beforehand?

anonymous 3232 - Réponse

There's nothing physically stopping you from going straight for the battery. However, it's difficult to control where the solvent goes with 100% accuracy, so if you're at all concerned about your solvent affecting other components, it's safer to remove them first. We've tested a lot of solvents and found that some are much safer to spread around, but not very effective at separating the battery. So yes, depending on the solvent used and the exact model of your MacBook Pro, the procedure could be very different!

Jeff Suovanen -

Hi Jeff, thanks for the explanation, very helpful. In the meantime, I have realised you don't ship out of the US... pity!

anonymous 3232 - Réponse

Thanks so much for that link! And thanks to the guy who came up with it. I think I found a much faster way to go than thick nylon.

I couldn't find a nylon cord big enough. But I realized (being a guy from jersey) that it looked like something I'd seen happen in so many 80's mob films to someone who had to be taken care of. So i looked around for a thin metal wire and found it on my guitar! Wrap each end around a nail or something so you can hold it tight. And the metal wire really effectively cuts through the glue. The thin diameter makes it easier.

Didn't have to take out a single component.

Seth Piezas -

your link in combination with dental floss is great, fast and safe

hanneskvh -

Hey! My Macbook has started to swell in the center, near the spacebar! I'll try to replace the battery asap. I play the guitar so I'll use the guitar string as recommended. Which one did you use? This high E? And can I use the guide shown in this link with the guitar string? Thanks!

Carlos Castro Neves -

An other way ist following: I put a few drops of adhesive remover to the plastic card and then push the card under the battery pack. repeat this until yo can remove one battery after one.

No need to remove any parts and no need for a guitar string, dental floss …

familienfreundlich -

Or if you have an Apple Store nearby, they'll do the work for $129 which is worth the risk IMO. https://support.apple.com/mac/repair/ser...

Phatcat - Réponse

It's actually $199 for Retina MacBook Pros, but yes you're right and that's certainly an option if you're close to an Apple Store—at least until the 5-year mark when Apple stops servicing them (which on the 2013 models will be as soon as next year).

Jeff Suovanen -

Also they take your computer for several days. You can do this repair in a few hours. (or shorter if you use the string method along with solvent, as mentioned above)

tod -

In Portugal it’s like 337€ which is equivalent to 378$ lol do you still think it isn’t worth the risk?

Lino -

I did a modified version of this to replace my battery: Steps 1-4, then Steps 34-. I didn't feel comfortable removing the logic board.

I controlled the flow of the solvent by tilting the computer by the hinge so any excess solvent would flow towards the front of the computer.

After being very sparing with the solvent and letting it sit for several minutes, I used the string method mentioned above. I think without the solvent, using the string would be very difficult, but with the solvent, the adhesive became gummy and easy to pull through.

tod - Réponse

I just did this replacement but used solvent + string. Seems to work great. Solvent weakens the adhesive, string breaks it.

A small writeup here: https://todbot.com/blog/2017/07/08/repla...

tod - Réponse

Thanks for the link to your method - just followed your procedure and it worked great! Entire process probably took about 45 minutes total and that was taking my time.

Mark Weishaar -

I used the solvent + string method and it worked great. For the string, I used dental floss. It is very thin and very strong and easily cuts through the weakened glue.

Jeffr -

Hey guys, i changed my battery following the guide and using the ifix it kit, i did a full SMC and PRAM reset but for some strange reason completely randomly the computer will crash make the screen completely black and after a while it’ll shutdown by itself, i just reset it and it works fine but i’d love some advice on the matter

aerorth - Réponse

I just pulled the battery out. I didn't disassemble the entire computer. I also did not use the adhesive remover. Scrape scrape scrape.

christianm - Réponse

Sucess! Thanks ifixit.com, Like some, I skipped steps 5 to 33…

Alexander Javier - Réponse

I brought the MBP to the genius bar in town to run their diagnostic tool before I ordered the Ifixit battery replacement kit, if only to see what else was wrong besides an old battery. I was suspecting the DC onboard chip was damaged as well. We got two errors, one for the battery and one for a temperature sensor (which could have been battery related said the genius) DC onboard chip wasn’t damaged as I thought. Could it be that the new battery that was shipped was faulty, or did I destroy the socket or a solder when I pried off the battery plug with the spudger as was instructed but not demonstrated (did i use a vital component as a leverage point?)

What gives? Can I clean the socket with an electronic contact cleaner- the spray kind, or will that damage other components?

Help

Paul Ranada - Réponse

THIS WHOLE GUIDE IS TOO LONG AND FOR COWARDS. You can easily make it faster. Just do it as in guide until you finish step 4. Then open your laptop and put it on the table this way that keyboard will face the table and screen will be hanging from the table (similar way how they put chairs on tables in restaurants to clean floor). Put some cloths or paper between keyboard and table, make roll from paper and put it also between table and keyboard near table’s edge. This will lift laptop a little bit and allow adhesive remover to flow down to the paper/cloths. Put some remover under the batteries (I bought nail’s remover with acetone), wait a while and remove batteries. Clean the rest of remover from the bottom of laptop and you are ready to put new batteries. It is easy and can be done in 20-40 minutes.

paczor - Réponse

I agree with the other commenters here. EVERY STEP AFTER 4 IS COMPLETELY UNNECESSARY. I think you risk doing more damage to your computer trying to remove the logic board and components than just muscling the battery out. If your battery is swollen like mine was, the battery will mostly have separated from the adhesive already due to expansion. I was able to pull out my battery with no adhesive remover whatsoever. If you do run into some adhesive that you can’t just pry off, just use a scraper or floss to remove it.

email - Réponse

Hi; I just installed my new battery and followed your instructions to the letter… not a bad experience, and works like a dream. And, while I was in there I swapped my 500 Gb SSD with a new OWC 1 Tb. It’s like having a new computer. Thanks!

Marc Jacobs - Réponse

Succeeded! I left out steps 5 to 33 to avoid too many possible faults removing and reassembling all the parts. To avoid floating of the solvent in a wrong direction, I shifted the computer on the upper side, so that the solvent would float under the battery to the edge, not to the sensible parts.

Now the bottom part is flat again, and the trackpad klicks smooth… The whole computer is like new again and looks like new as well. :-) (and it’s 4,5 years old)

Hartmut - Réponse

Unlike many others that commented, I did go through with the whole replacement as stated, and it worked without issue. I followed every step closely, and had no issues when I turned the machine back on. Now that I’ve done it, I don’t see any reason you couldn’t do the thread or dental floss method - seems safe to me.

I made a time lapse of the process. Thanks for the great (and very detailed) guide!

Jeff Ballweg - Réponse

I love your video! Great work. That battery looked pretty swollen o.O

Jeff Suovanen -

Success! Did not use the solvent, but fishing line and a plastic knife. The guitar pic in the replacement kit was just a bit too short. ;) I appreciate the work everyone has done in writing up hints and tips. The guide’s instructions and images are tops! I approached this job with a bit of fear but saw how nearly everyone was successful. Now, my 2013 model MacBook Pro has long battery life again.

Larry_Rymal - Réponse

Just a marvelous follow-up. The computer would power-off at 10% battery remaining. I did the usual resets, etc., but it still would power-off. I decided to go ahead and charge the battery to 100% and let it drain (power adapter unplugged). This time it drained all the way to 0% (wow!) and faded to dark. Nice and eloquently.

Secondly, Facebook, with the old dying battery, would not scroll smoothly as graphics/pictures were loading. I’m assuming the MacBook Pro was throttling back since the battery was on its death bed. Now, with the new battery, this computer is so amazingly fast! FB scrolling is whoooshhh fast on supplying the graphics.

I just hope that Apple will give OS upgrade support for just a couple more years, albeit being nearly a five year old machine. It is speedy, and has all the ports I need (other than having ThunderBolt 2 rather ThunderBolt 3).

Thank you iFixit!

Larry_Rymal - Réponse

I just replaced my battery with the ifixit kit, but like some people I skipped all the steps regarding removing components.

I protected the screen with foil, tilted the laptop so excess acetone would go away from the logic board, and proceeded to remove the battery.

i used very small amounts of fluid, and worked them off with plastic cards. They came off pretty easily; I spent more time removing the excess black glue strips.

This is NOT difficult. Just go slow.

jacob - Réponse

iFixit’s Kit doesn’t ship to NZ so my method of attack was the following:

* Custom blend of about 80% Acetone (Nail Polish Remover) + 20% water in a dish.

* The disposable eye drops you can buy, emptied one of the little plastic suckers / droppers and used that to pick-up the custom blend above and apply it.

* I tried some picture hanging wire, was OK. Then Dental Floss, was not great. Finally settled on cutting a metre of an old ethernet cable and using a twisted pair from that. Worked much better, decent sawing motion and as the plastic wears down you get better sawing from the wire inside. No battery damage at all…

* Plus some old credit cards

Took 2 batteries out of dead Macbook Pro’s and swapped them over with great success.

As above you don’t need to remove all the other components…

Matt

Matt Hall - Réponse

Should have skipped to the comments first before I started; advising to skip certain steps. lol…but, alas I went through with it all and I’m glad I did. It allowed me to carefully clean the inside of the laptop. I even opened up the fans and got all the dust out, too. I will say I’m rather good with this kind of stuff so I wasn’t too worried as I progressed to basically teardown the laptop. Thanks to ifixit and the author for this. First timer on here and grateful for the community. Cheers!

James Castro - Réponse

Another successful repair here. As with most other commenters, I skipped steps 5-33 and had zero issues by virtue of tilting the laptop so the solvent wouldn’t contact the other parts inside. It actually took longer to clean up the leftover old adhesive strips than to remove the old battery itself. As a bonus, my trackpad, which had started behaving erratically about 6-8 months ago, is working perfectly again, likely due to the badly swollen condition of the old cells, enough to visibly bow the keyboard upward. No issues following replacement, the recommended two full discharge/charge cycles and a couple of days’ usage. I am very grateful for the work that went into the replacement kit and this guide. Thanks!

Anderson Vitous - Réponse

Just replaced the whole unibody, I had a broken trackpad as well as a 50% health battery. Found a good used one and used this tutorial and the tutorial on the display replacement. Had the whole computer taken down to components, couldn’t have done it with out the tutorial. Thanks!

Elijah Vivio - Réponse

This is an easy repair with iFixit’s kit and especially if you do a little bit of research first. I did what a lot of people here have mentioned, using a combination of the adhesive remover and a string to sort of “tear” the glue. Here are the steps I took:

1) I put some foil in the closed laptop to protect the screen, then put the laptop on a tilted stand.

2) I then put the adhesive remover around each of the batteries, carefully avoiding components I didn’t remove.

3) Once the adhesive remover had set in a little, I used fishing line to pull under the cells and tear the weakened adhesive.

4) I Removed and replaced the battery once all the cells were separated from the computer.

Here’s a video of the process that I used to replace mine: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rfHHIERH...

However I had calibrated the new battery and reset the PRAM and SMC and it would still shut off with 35% left, meaning that the new battery was defective, but iFixit quickly shipped a new one to me for free that works perfectly.

Andrew Dennistoun - Réponse

Two notes on this excellent guide here:

1. Having completed the whole operation the second time around I’d straight go for the battery without removing the logic board.

2. The iFixit replacement battery didn’t completely fit in the center (I couldn’t screw it down without bending the battery connector). The connector part is a differently constructed than the original one, so beware if that’s the case for you as well.

Bruno Essmann - Réponse

I replaced the battery successfully but after turning the unit back on, I can’t use my normal password to get in, the enter key and the delete key don’t work. What could I have screwed up?

Charles Shader - Réponse

The keyboard ribbon cable is one of the trickiest to reconnect correctly. I’d start by pulling it back out and inspecting it carefully for damage. Make sure it’s clean and free of skin oils—you can clean the contacts carefully with a bit of >90% isopropyl alcohol and a lint-free swab or cloth. When it’s dry, reinsert it carefully and evenly, and make sure it’s fully seated. If that doesn’t help, it’s possible the cable is damaged. Or, if you got too much adhesive remover in the wrong place, there could be damage to the keyboard. Start with the simple things first and work your way down. Good luck!

Jeff Suovanen -

I finished this today, skipped the steps to remove the electronics, and am happy to report that the speaker enclosures withstood a few splashes of solvent and did not melt like they’d been hit with the acid from ALIEN. It’s worth noting that the two central batteries have 3 strips of adhesive each, all of equal size oriented front to back in the case, the two sets of batteries on the sides had adhesive in a more rectangular pattern with two small and two large strips each. I would consider adding that to the instructions because so much of the disassembly was guessing where to ‘carve’ with the plastic separators. Also, a good trick for this was adding additional solvent while the plastic separators were already partially inserted, allowing it to run down the tool directly into the remaining adhesive. Last thought is that this was such a delicate and time consuming procedure, I would have been glad to just pay the extra money for apple to do it if they wouldn’t have needed to take my laptop for 3-5 days.

John Stevens - Réponse

I used the string method on mine. My batteries were so swollen that the screws ejected from the case as I removed them - ended up having to press down on the case so they wouldn’t strip the starting threads. Just waiting for it to discharge to ensure the battery is good. I was a bit concerned the string method could build up static electricity, but so far things are working fine…

simplymail - Réponse

I could easily have skipped the full teardown, but I decided to do so for the extra room to manipulate the batteries. I didn’t use the adhesive remover, just shoved the cards under the batteries and worked them free. Isopropyl 91% to clean up the residue. Some makeup remover pads were useful as well to let sit on the remaining residue to help saturate them before scrubbing clean. Re-assembly took about 1 hour carefully. Removed a lot of dust along the way. :-) Now the machine is in tip-top shape. Thanks for the guide! Even though it’s a little ambitious just to get the speakers out of the way, you did outline the worst case scenario and give adequate direction along the way to prevent anyone from getting lost.

As said by others, you would probably be fine to skip the teardown steps and just go for a battery removal with the logic board in place.

hybrid - Réponse

I have successfully remove last battery it was swollen, most of the strips already left the case due pressure build up by swelling, but my machine is keep restrating at 17% battery, i tried resetting smc and pram but same situation is same.

Muhammad Asif - Réponse

Easy half hour fix when skipping the electronics removal, Adhesive was easy solved by the solvant liquid

but noticed something interesting, APPLE had forgotten to put in the 2 screws holding the battery electronics connector in place

but I guess the Adhesive will keep it in place as the old one did for a few years.

Old battery very swollen but after replacing finally clicking the trackpad started to work again.

Only thing disappointing thing was they I got a plastic screwdriver shaft, was looking forward to get that shiny metal thing on all the pictures.

sayyonara - Réponse

I just finished all the steps — worked like a charm! While I had it all the way open, I replaced the keyboard and backlight as well (it had taken a bath in soda and after limping along for a few months a few keys finally gave out entirely…). Not exactly a trivial addition to the process (took about an additional hour and a half maybe?) but I really appreciate having had the instructions for taking out all the other parts.

John Murphy - Réponse

Thank you for the tip! I used the e-string of my Western guitar and did cut the tape in less than 10 minutes without any liquid and without taking at the Macbooks compontents. My daugher held the MB case firmly so I could make long strokes to cut the tape. Perfect!

Jan van der Meij - Réponse

Hi, i bought ifixit MacBook Pro replacement battery and i have done the installation successfully but now the battery is not charging at all. The computer tells me that the battery must be replaced. Also when i go to the system preference to check battery information it tells me that the battery has 0 amperes.

Please help me! Thank you!

mjma1982 - Réponse

Just made it, using the “string”-method as shown in https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fupkPz55....

Took about 50 minutes, most of the time for removing the adhesive residue.

Used a string that was thinner than the one in the youtube-video - and my winter leather gloves to not strangulate fingers ;-)

Works!

anonymousguest - Réponse

Just finished the repair using the fishing line method with no acetone. No need to remove anything except the battery. New battery was a simple install and as a bonus my trackpad works again! The swollen old batteries were pushing against the bottom of the trackpad preventing me from fully clicking on the pad. Thank you iFixIt!

Michael Rojas - Réponse

Hi everybody, I absolved every step succesfull. Now everything is working but the battery. Has anyone an idea what to do. When I pull magsafe out of my mac he is immedeatly off.

Karsten - Réponse

Thank You very much for the link, easy steps.

Bastian Goonewardena - Réponse

I ordered the battery and all tools to complete the installation, it arrived in 2 days. Because I am a DIY kind of guy, the only steps I followed were to take off the rear cover, unplug the battery, remove the two screws, remove the battery, and put it back together.

I used fishing line to drop behind each of the battery sections and sawed through the tape holding the battery down. After the first three sections I had to change the fishing line because it began to stick because of getting hot and residual glue. I used the adhesive remover to clean up the case after the batteries were out, replaced the two screws that hold the battery in place, plugged the battery in, turned it over and powered up just to be sure, and replaced the back cover.

No fuss, mo muss, no Apple having my computer for ‘about a week’ and with an investment of only 40 minutes I am a very happy camper. Don’t forget to calibrate your new battery so it will last as long as possible.

Thanks iFixit, I am very happy I found you!

Paul Malone - Réponse

I just replaced the battery with the iFixit kit. I did not need any of the additional removal steps (5-33). Rather, I just unplugged the battery and used the plastic cards to get at the adhesive. I only used the solvent when cleaning the remaining adhesive after getting the battery pack out. Using this method, I was able to replace the battery without removing anything else, saving a ton of time.

One thing to note re the iFixit Kit — it comes with a battery calibration card that does not match the instructions that are online through the link in this instruction page. In particular, the card that comes with the kit instructs to drain the battery from the state it was received in and then fully charge, while the online instructions say to charge the battery fully first, then drain fully, then charge fully again. Kind of surprising that those are inconsistent.

Nicholas Transier - Réponse

@nick_transier The printed cards are a little out of date in that regard. The instructions in the guide are correct. (The printed version has been updated, but some kits were already packed with the old cards. Sorry about that.)

Jeff Suovanen -

C’est fait ! Ai suivi pas à pas toutes les étapes.

C’est LONG, mais … c’est BON !

Merci pour le tuto TRES éclairant.

H Max - Réponse

HELP !!!

Ai un souci : malgré cette manipulation (ci-dessous) et le reset SMC, la batterie toute neuve de Ifixit passe de 47% à 7% subitement : que faire ???

Merci

Calibrez votre nouvelle batterie avant de l'utiliser : Chargez-la à 100%, puis laissez-la charger encore au moins deux heures. Utilisez votre appareil normalement jusqu'à ce qu'il s'éteint à cause d'une batterie vide. N'oubliez pas de sauvegarder votre travail à temps. Attendez au moins 5 heures, puis rechargez la batterie à 100% sans interruption.

H Max - Réponse

Hello ! I have a problem, the new battery has 47% and suddenly go to 7% !

I have made a reset SMC, no change.

PLEASE HELP !

Thanks

H Max - Réponse

Same ploblem here… I repeated the drain process and same results… any suggestion? Thanks

Ivan Ferrigno -

Thank you so much for this wonderful detailed guide. I just fixed mine but when I reached the stages of using the solvent, I found out that the solvent has almost no chance of getting into the other components unless you’re abnormally clumsy, but I understand & appreciate the extra carefulness.. So unless you like me have extra free time to spend and you like taking things apart for fun; I would confidently say go ahead and just remove the battery alone. Thanks again for the whole package and everything in it.. I love this company’s idea.. Wish you all the best all the way from Saudi Arabia.

Faisal - Réponse

Start with Step 1- 4 and then start with Step 40! So my replace took 15-20min. Also i didn’t glued the new Batterie (absolut not needed) so a future replacement would take just 5min.

Cheers, Michael

M L - Réponse

The glue is the only thing safely securing the battery with this design. If you only ever plan to leave the laptop sitting flat on a desk its entire life, then sure, no adhesive needed—but otherwise, for safety reasons, it should be firmly stuck down.

Jeff Suovanen -

I can’t believe how much better my trackpad works now that I replaced the battery. I thought I had maybe warped the unibody case as it took a pretty big drop in a bag a few months back. Turns out the battery had began to swell and was pushing on the trackpad and bottom case. The adhesive remover worked well in small applications when I couldn’t get through it with fishing line. The entire process took me about 45 minutes, including setup and cleanup. The guide is really well written and the steps are documented meticulously, but most of the steps really aren’t necessary unless you are a masochist or are really interested in fully tearing down your MBP. Anyway, the kit was great and all the comments on this guide made the job much easier.

benganzel - Réponse

My mac doesn’t turn on anymore I followed all the steps. Has anyone an suggestion?

Harry Fesenmayr - Réponse

I am unhappy with the new battery life. I get just over two hours. Is this right ?

Simon Anthony - Réponse

The guide here is overkill. As many here have said, skip the extensive tear-down of the MacBook Pro. A close visual inspection, before and during the repair, suggest that the battery-only teardown would not cause harm. I did it without problems with both floss and cards. I can’t tell if the small amount of solvent actually did much good. As I got closer to the bottom edge, I don’t think solvent reached that far, but the adhesive yielded to gentle and repeated pressure.

An observation: Floss or fishing line is adequate, and metal ( guitar or ethernet wires) add a risk. It also doesn’t matter much if you break the line — start over - you’ll succeed.

My take on the overkill of this guide is iFixit both wants to make sure their advice doesn’t make them liable for your actions, & that the over-the-top repair reinforces their rating of Apple products as minimally repairable (thus optimizing their “brand”). Still, a very satisfying, simple, and quick repair, and I’m happy to pay a little bit more for the whole kit.

John Maliga - Réponse

Sawing the adhesive patches through with string (15 lb fishing line tied around 2 tools in my case) makes this a simple 30 minute job. I think, based on the many comments, that carefully cutting through the adhesive is much safer than using solvent. A BIG THANK YOU TO NORBERT MATE FOR POSTING THE LINK . My Macbook Pro 15 late 2013 lives!!!

Suggestion to iFIXIT: make a fishing line “tool” to remove the batteries and post the alternative procedure.

stephan williams - Réponse

BEWARE: Ifixit’s directions and kit is fantastic. No complaints there. But what all of you should know is that the battery I received is not behaving properly and I followed the directions to the letter for its first charges etc. Essentially, the battery will show 100%, then slowly trickle down and skip to the 80 and then go down to the 60’s and then eventually and suddenly hover at 7 percent for awhile. I think I’m getting about 2.5 total hours of usage surfing the internet but the real problem is when I close the lid and put the computer to sleep. Before Thanksgiving break I was around 65% battery life and 4 days later I come back to town and try to the wake the computer and its telling me the battery is totally dead. I told ifixt that I believe I got a bad battery and their answer was for me to tear out the new and adhered battery from the computer so they can issue a refund and test the battery for problems. But shouldn’t every battery be tested BEFORE it is sent out for a complicated repair?

Jeffrey Buccellato - Réponse

Hello, I decide not to take everything apart in order to use the solvent . Instead, I used Dental Floss to cut the adhesive. It worked very well and quickly. Simply wrap the floss around a couple of small handles, route it under the battery segments one by one and using a sawing motion, cut through the adhesive. I attached a clamp to the front edge of my workbench to provide something to pull against. You need to be careful not to cut the floss on the surrounding metal edges. I was able to complete the battery replacement in about 35 minutes.

GradyB - Réponse

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