Introduction
Ce tutoriel vous aide à remplacer la batterie usée de votre Samsung Galaxy S8.
Avant de démonter votre téléphone, déchargez la batterie à moins de 25 %. Une batterie lithium-ion chargée peut prendre feu et/ou exploser en cas de perforation accidentelle.
Si la batterie est gonflée, prenez les précautions appropriées. Ne chauffez pas le téléphone. Si besoin, utilisez une seringue ou une pipette pour injecter de l'alcool (à 90 % ou plus) sur les bords de la vitre arrière afin de ramollir l'adhésif. Les batteries gonflées peuvent être très dangereuses, donc mettez des lunettes de protection et soyez vigilant. Si vous n'êtes pas sûr de vous, amenez le téléphone à un professionnel.
Ce dont vous avez besoin
Vidéo d'introduction
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Chauffez l'iOpener pendant trente secondes.
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Comme l'iOpener refroidit au cours de la réparation, rechauffez-le à nouveau au micro-ondes, mais ne dépassez pas les trente secondes à chaque fois.
DO NOT USE IN NON ROTATING MICROWAVE! It will pop a hole. I had it in for 45 seconds the first time. It wasn't very hot inside and I saw it started to leak on the paper towel I put under it. Just a fair bit of advice. I think I will just stick with the heat gun. Loud but useful.
I heated mine up for 30 seconds, tested, then again for 30 seconds. It felt adequately hot. Leaving it on the left side, per the instruction, for a minute did not loosen the adhesive. I ended up pulling the suction cup hard enough to shadder the old screen. Moral of the story, I don't think it gets hot enough safely to have an affect.
There is a clear problem here with the heating part using the iopener things....no details are given. Whoever is testing them needs to make it clear - What temperature does it need to be? And for which phone models, because they differ in what's needed. It's only £10-15 for a laser guided temp sensor unit, and the designers/repairers should have one of those already for doing these kinds of repairs. Explaining half a repair, is worse than not explaining at all :-(
All phones/devices differ it’s unrealistic and unsafe to put a exact time/temperature needed to soften the adhesive. It’s really quite simple you warm the device evenly and in a controlled manner just enough to enable pry tools and picks to begin separating. Best tool in my opinion but again this is because I have experience is a hot plate and heat gun both of which are used at nearly the lowest settings and I can handle flat palming the plate for almost 10 seconds I leave the device to conduct heat until approx it’s about 110 at most 120 ish this will be plenty to soften all the adhesive if any problem areas I use heat gun while prying. Again you need go slowly and learn with a throw away phone
If I may suggest include your microwave wattage so people can get an idea on time for there own
I agree with this.
I ended up using a hair dryer. That iOpener thing took forever.
30 seconds sure isn’t cutting it… 45 didn’t get the screen of my iPad air 2 to budge either… even after resting on the ipad for 4 minutes.
60 seconds in the microwave, the iOpener burst.
I’ll get a new one and try once more with heating it 45 seconds and repeat that for 30 minutes like others have said here. If that doesn’t work it’ll have to be the heat gun.
K
I can’t recommend the microwave. If the the iOpener becomes too hot, it bursts. Better put the opener in cooking water. Dry it and use it. Instead of an iOpener you can use hot/cool packs as well.
Great idea with using the heat packs. I will try that next time. Thank you
Collins -
Trust the directions! I forgot and left it in the Microwave too long and after 1 minute I had Mt Vesuvius - the iOpener burst and spewed the goodies out. The problem is, the Digitizer can be damaged by a hot air gun, so I had to tough out and remove the glue the hard way. I made it … with lots of patience! Tough lesson.
I also used a hairdryer. I used it on the low setting and I cut a piece of carboard to protect the rest of the screen. The iFixit tool and method is vert tedious and very time consuming in comparison. With the hairdryer method you can literally have the display apart in a few minutes. Using your other hand nearby the area you are heating it should be very hot but not enough to burn your hand. You only have to heat metal part of case near glass edge. If you have a cellular model then you need to be very careful because the black antenna area is plastic. So less heat and work your way up in adding heat just enough to separate around the area but not so much you melt the plastic!
iOpener was the worst part of the kit. Followed directions for :30 in microwave and took 4 trips to the microwave to loosen adhesive on left side of home button. I thought I was figuring it out and it was working well… even set a timer to wait 10 minutes between heating it up. Was on the right side and was on my 12th heat up when it exploded in the microwave. My only tip is that if you set it clear side up, as soon as you see any bubbles or boiling in the liquid, STOP! If you put a pot holder over the iOpener and press slightly to make good surface contact, that seemed to help. I finished heating with a “Corn Sack” that held heat better than the provided iOpener.
Mon iopener n'a pas tenu une réparation. Je ne vous conseille pas ce produit
Bonjour,
Nous sommes désolés que votre réparation ne se soit pas déroulée comme prévu. Il se peut que le produit était défectueux. Veuillez contacter notre service client support@ifixit.com (boutique américaine) ou eustore@ifixit.com (boutique européenne) en décrivant ce qui s’est passé.
Readers looking for temperature advice might check the comments of the previous instruction, as there are more there. I used an immersion bath to heat this to 180F and applied it to the device until the outside temperature of the opener read 150F with an IR thermometer. Removing the screen took very little force with this method.
Thank you for posting some actual temperatures. I have a heat gun with a very fine self-temperature regulation setting capability.
I will set it for 150-180 F, and use that to soften the adhesive.
Get a heat gun.
I followed the directions and heated my iOpener for 30 seconds in a 1000 watt microwave, and it came out at 160 degrees F, as verified by a infrared thermometer. A second heating about 15 minutes later in the micro and it came out at 190 degrees F. Plenty hot enough to soften the adhesive for removing the back on my S8. Based on the comments above I think people just need to use more patience.
I used various time settings. It got very hot. It would soften the glue but not a whole lot. If my screen had been intact and I was replacing something that was not a digitizer, it may have worked. A broken screen makes the process significantly more difficult. I ended up breaking the home button cable. Good bye TouchID…
It appeared 30 seconds were not enough, so I heated it more, by 5 seconds at a time until I got the right temperature about 70 degrees Celsius (measured with infrared pistol) to get the screen heated up to 60 C, the best for softening the glue. But the heat was quickly dissipating by the big aluminum back cover, so the best I got in 2 minutes of applying iOpener was around 45 C, which made the procedure difficult and having risk of breaking the screen. So I eventually abandoned iOpener and user a hot air gun with precise temperature setup. I set it to 90 C, which allowed me to open my iPad quickly and safely.
I, too, ended up using a hot air gun. I’ve done earlier versions of iPad before but the adhesive used on this IPad 5 A1822 was particularly difficult to remove.
Also, while the suction cup worked great when the glass is in tact, any cracks in the glass make the suction cup useless.
You need to remember here are different sizes of microwaves. I had the same issue.
Heating on a smaller unit I used 45-60 seconds. That worked but was time comsuming
Yeah, the iOpener didn't work for me either.... ended up using a hair dryer and that worked. The iOpener was too warm to soften the glue in my case.
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Sortez l'iOpener du micro-ondes en le tenant par l'une des deux extrémités plates, car le centre de l'outil risque d'être brûlant.
I did this repair. I used a hair dryer, I think it works better: gets very hot fast.
I did too, you get far more control and no expense on fancy equipment.
Readers looking for temperature advice might check the comments of the previous instruction, as there are more there. I used an immersion bath to heat this to 180F and applied it to the device until the outside temperature of the opener read 150F with an IR thermometer. Removing the screen took very little force with this method. I don’t know how much microwaves vary in heating consistency with these pads, but knowing how inconsistent the temperature of a bowl of plain rice gets in my microwave, I wasn’t interested in even trying to use it for this.
I vote for the hair dryer. The other methods work too but if you aren’t having any luck, switch to the hair dryer. While holding the iPad in my hand, I found that I am aiming the dryer at my finger at the same time and it gauges how hot it is. I stop when my finger can’t take it - maybe five seconds up close. Repeat as needed like I did.
If the maximum temperature for this iOpener is lower than the gadget glue minimum temperature, this device does not make sense.
I think the maximum temperature for this iOpener is below 100⁰C and most gadget glue minimum temperature is higher than 100⁰C. So the iOpener is useless for many opening steps in repair guides. But who knows because temperature range is not specified for this iOpener. -
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Remplissez une casserole ou une poêle avec suffisamment d'eau pour immerger complètement un iOpener.
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Faites chauffer l'eau jusqu'à ébullition. Puis éteignez le feu.
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Placez un iOpener dans l'eau chaude pendant 2 à 3 minutes. Assurez-vous que l'iOpener est complètement immergé dans l'eau.
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Utilisez des pinces pour extraire l'iOpener chauffé de l'eau chaude.
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Séchez soigneusement l'iOpener avec une serviette.
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Votre iOpener est prêt à être utilisé ! Si vous devez réchauffer l'iOpener, portez l'eau à ébullition, éteignez le feu et placez l'iOpener dans l'eau pendant 2 à 3 minutes.
What do I do if I don’t have a iopener?
Use a hair dryer
2 or 3 cups Rice in a sock, heat for about 2 minutes. But, I recommend the iopener.
When boiling in water you can put the iopener in a ziplock to keep it dry.
Even if you don't put in a ziplock bag, I found that the surface is mostly hydrophobic so drying it is very easy. I also didn't have tongs, but the bag is denser than water, so it sank and I attached clothes pins to the ends and was able to remove it with those.
2-3 minutes in near boiling water, then 2-3 minutes on my s10+ and it was super easy to cut the glue off.
I have a question, if I have a pan, and I have water, and a mean to boil the water, won't it be easier and cheaper to just use that.
Have you tried it? Water limits your temperature to 100℃, whereas 'pan on the stove' can easily get up to twice that. If your pan is even slightly warped, you'll have a few hot spots of direct conduction with convection everywhere else, heating things unevenly. Assuming you get the device up to temperature, how will you get it out without scratching it or burning yourself? After you're finished, do you really want to prepare food in the pan you warmed up adhesives and trace manufacturing substances in?
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Boiling something form fitting to heat your device with is a lot more foolproof, and not being foolish is easier and cheaper. Direct pan heating can work, but you are leaving yourself open to a lot more problems than just taking the safe route.
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Ouvrir votre téléphone peut compromettre son imperméabilité. Préparez un adhésif de remplacement avant de commencer. A défaut, si vous remontez votre appareil sans remplacer l'adhésif, prenez soin de ne pas le mettre en contact avec un liquide.
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Chauffez l'iOpener puis appliquez-le sur le long bord de votre S8 pendant 2 minutes.
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Un sèche-cheveux, un pistolet à air chaud ou une plaque chauffante peuvent servir d'alternative mais veillez à ne pas surchauffer le téléphone. L'écran OLED et la batterie interne pourraient en souffrir.
What type of adhesive should be used to seal? Or better said, what would you recommend.
I’d recommend precut adhesive designed for the rear cover. If that’s not available, thin, hi-bond double sided tape like 1 mm wide Tesa 61395 tape will work well.
Yes, different microwaves have different power levels (e.g., wattage) so one microwave may explode the iOpener after 31 seconds of heating whereas another microwave will barely warm it. It would be helpful to have a more precise target temperature. My microwave is fairly weak so I’m heating it for seven seconds for every two minutes against the phone. In theory, this should slowly add more heat than is dissipated into the phone and surrounding atmosphere.
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Au cours des étapes suivantes, vous ferez céder l'adhésif autour du bord de la vitre arrière.
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L'adhésif est réparti dans la coque arrière comme illustré par la première image.
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Le schéma d'ouverture vu de l'extérieur comprend les zones suivantes :
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Couche épaisse d'adhésif
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Couche fine d'adhésif
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Évitez de faire levier ici, afin de protéger le lecteur d'empreintes digitales.
Failing completely at this step. I’ve heated the opener like 5 times and the phone is hot to the touch, but I can’t get even the tip of the pick into the opening.
Added a hair dryer to the effort and stil making no headway at all.
Be careful. Insanely careful. If you think you are careful enough, this means you need to be even more careful. If you think it is not possible to be more careful, then be a little more careful and you might be able to remove the back cover without breaking it. Especially the bottom of the phone.
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Une fois que la coque arrière est chaude au toucher, posez une petite ventouse le plus près possible du bord chauffé du téléphone tout en évitant le rebord incurvé.
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Si la partie arrière de la coque est fissurée, la ventouse pourrait ne pas coller. Essayez de soulever avec du ruban adhésif épais ou bien mettez de la superglue sur la ventouse et laissez-la sécher avant de continuer.
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Soulevez la ventouse et insérez une spatule hallebarde (spudger halberd) ou un médiator sous la vitre arrière.
We can't seem to get anything between the edges even after heating the back panel. Any tips?
Hi Megan, unfortunately the adhesive is super tough on this one. I’d recommend carefully continuing to apply heat, very gradually so that you don’t accidentally overheat the battery. Eventually you should be able to get a little gap with the suction handle.
I’ve been attempting to get the adhesive to loosen for four hours now. Exactly how much time is this supposed to take? The pictures makes it look like it should be easy. The adhesive still hasn’t budged and I’m beyond frustrated.
Hi Lori, sorry to hear the adhesive is being extra stubborn! If reheating and reapplying the iOpener isn’t working, you can try heating the edge with a hairdryer or heat gun. That way you can get more heat onto the edge faster, but be very careful not to overheat the battery inside.
I used a stanley knife - very carefully, after trying for several hours to get the adhesive to loosen. I bought another back cover with adhesive for the assmbley, which is the best option in my opinion. Just be careful not the scratch the case of the phone, and be prepared for the back glass cover to break when removing it.
The manufacturers really want to make this impossible, huh… I’ve gone 3 years without ever cracking this phone and end up cracking the corner of the back trying to prise it open. Probably should’ve gotten a heat gun too. This is super tight.
I am currently working on this. I have heated the phone to just barely to hot to hold. No matter how many times I've done this and pulled up with a suction cup I cannot get an edge to lift.
Being that this is my second phone repair does anyone have advice on this? I've watched several YouTube videos and it looks so easy.
I suggest you try to lift on the middle of an edge using the thinnest spudger you have. also as the edge is curved remember to insert it so to follow the curve. Hopes it helps
Cajuteq -
Our issue was that a small gap would open when using the iOpener, but not large enough to get spudger or opening picks in there (also tried hair dryer but same result). Luckily as a guitar player I had some very thin nylon picks that we were able to get in there, which opened up a large enough gap to get the spudger and opening picks in. From there, we were able to heat the other sides and guide the spudger around the entire edge to get the back glass off.
First we used a Dunlop nylon .38 mm guitar pick, then a .60 mm pick, and that allowed us to get the spudger in.
This is by far the hardest part of any tutorial that requires you to open the Samsung. The iOpener is totally useless on my opinion (it doesn’t get warm enough). What I did instead is use a hairdryer but it took me time before I could get the adhesive soft enough. Especially since I was not able to measure the temperature of the phone will warming it. Also I think that the halberd is not thin enough so I used a radiology sheet (don’t know the right word in English) to get into the phone and it was much more effective and time saving. Thank you for the tutorial and good luck !
Use a utility knife blade to work around the edges. Careful not to pry on the blade since you risk cracking the back
I bought a back glass replacement kit with the battery kit since mine was cracked already. I used both iOpeners to uniformly heat the whole back along both long edges. I microwaved each pack twice over 10 mins. 5 mins apply, microwave, 5 minutes apply. That worked!
Similar to other posts, this appeared simpler. I have a couple of tube socks filled with rice that we use a lot for a sore back. Put in microwave for 5 minutes and an amazing heat pack. So I thought I would try this instead of the iOpener as it just was not getting the phone warm enough. Wrapped the phone in the riced-filled-tube sock for a couple of minutes, to the point where I could at least pick it up and hold it. Also, I have the full IFIXIT kit, so I pulled out the jimmy. Viola. Got right in and then allowed me to use the halberd and picks to finish it off.
I was able to do this with the iOpener warming pad by microwaving for the suggested 30secs then leaving it on for 10 mins. repeated this process 2 more times for a total of 3 times @ 30 mins and used the suction tool and the picks to get it open. There is a considerable amount of adhesive on the tops and bottoms of the phone. So consider warming the whole phone before doing it.
Note: if you already have a cracked back panel (like me) prior to starting the process, consider getting the replacement as the already cracked panel will crack even more as you are cutting away at the adhesive. Goodluck!
After over an hour of trying to use heat and the suction tool loosen the adhesive and try to get an opening on one of the edges, I used the blue spudger to see if it would slip thru the edge and it did. I was able to loosen the majority of the back glass but ended up getting excited and rushing and cracked the top corner. I was able to complete the battery replacement and use the cracked back glass. I’m going to order a replacement for that and that should be easier. Lesson to be learned, if any part of the back glass is getting a little tougher to loosen, hit it with heat again just to be safe. The rest of the replacement we pretty straight forward.
The spudger provided in ifixit repair tool kit is not the same as the one used in this guide and can not be used in the same way as the spudger used in this guide. So I am pretty much winging it on the most critical point of this disassembly. This is extremely frustrating.
I’ve repaired many iphones but this was my first attempt on a Samsung. I made no headway at all on opening the case and I’ve decided to just live with the battery being kind of weak. Even with a short life, I would much rather use this phone than an Iphone.
I've tried 5 times in over the course of 4 hours to loosen the adhesive on this phone, and it won't budge. Unfortunately this kit is useless to me
Once I opened one edge, I heated up the other edges then just moved the pick around the entire perimeter of the phone to break the adhesive.
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Une fois que l'outil est bien inséré dans la vitre, reposez l'iOpener pour ramollir l'adhésif, après l'avoir à nouveau fait chauffer si nécessaire.
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Faites glisser le médiator le long du bord du téléphone pour faire céder l'adhésif.
Cracked my glass multiple times, do this very slowly and with more heat to each new area.
Second on cracking the back glass. Go slow and apply heat to each side before trying to pry it open.
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Répétez la procédure de chauffage et de découpage pour les trois autres bords du téléphone.
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Laissez un médiator dans chacun des côtés quand vous passez au suivant pour éviter que l'adhésif recolle.
Petite erreur: le guide dit iPhone au lieu de S7 :)
Bonjour Nicolas ! Merci pour la remarque ;-) Nous l’avons prise en compte et corrigé la traduction. La prochaine fois, n’hésitez pas à corriger directement en cliquant sur le bouton Traduire en haut à droite de l’étape.
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Coupez tout adhésif restant à l'aide des médiators et ouvrez légèrement le téléphone.
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Retirez la vitre arrière du téléphone.
For reassembly, if the fingerprint scanner is removed from the back cover: it’s much easier to place the fingerprint scanner in the small compartment on the back of the phone, connect it and then finally put the replacement back cover on. The adhesive on the inside of the back cover will get connect to the fingerprint scanner and hold it tightly.
I wish I saw this comment earlier because it's absolutely correct. I hope iFixit remedies this because it is incredibly difficult to connect the sensor when it's already adhered to the glass. It took me a good while and I ended up using some tape to keep the back glass aligned while I used the spudger to push blindly until it snapped into place. The only way I knew it worked was because I tested the sensor before fully sealing the glass.
The NFC antenna and coil assembly might get stick to the back cover due to adhesive spreads while trying to pry the back cover to open the phone. Take a look inside to ensure the assebly has not got sticked. If so, try using a credit card like plastic to get it peeled of from back cover without breaking the assembly always paying attention to the fingerprint sensor as well.
Reconnecting this cable seems like it would be very tricky: how can you get the pieces close enough together to make the connection without having the perimeter adhesive start to connect the front and back? It seems like that adhesive could easily get messed up at this point.
To remove the akku, high temperature was NOT constructive!! I used ethanol (cc.) instead and it worked in between 2 minutes. I think it´s also better to open the coverage in this way. Instead of heating it.
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Utilisez une pincette pour décoller tout adhésif restant du châssis du téléphone. Nettoyez ensuite les zones d'adhérence avec de l'alcool isopropylique à haute concentration (au moins 90 %) et un chiffon non pelucheux afin de préparer la surface pour le nouvel adhésif.
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Retirez le film adhésif de la nouvelle vitre arrière, alignez soigneusement un bord de la vitre contre le châssis du téléphone et appuyez fermement la vitre sur le téléphone.
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Vous devrez peut-être également transférer le cache de la caméra sur votre nouvelle coque. Si tel est le cas, suivez notre tutoriel de remplacement du cache de la caméra.
Hello, I appreciate that tuto, very detailed for a somewhat subtle job . Is it possible to use one of the 7000 or 8000 glues in place of the adhesive Stickers ? Thanks
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À l'aide d'un tournevis cruciforme (Philips #000), dévissez les onze vis de 3,7 mm.
Are all the screws the same size? I do not have a way to organize every little screw and part of this phone.
Hi Gavin, all the screws in this step are 3.7 mm long, so you can safely swap these screws with one another.
The 3 screws on the lower left are not necessary to remove the battery, only the top 8 screws.
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Retirez le module antenne NFC et chargeur sans fil.
I had to pry off the NFC antenna and charging coil assembly from the back cover. The adhesive probably spread a little bit while prying around the phone sticking some part of the NCF antenna and coild assembly sticked to the back cover. I had to use a credit card like pice of plastic to get it unsticked from the back cover without bearking it.
This doesn’t really cover the last step of removing the NFC antenna/charge coil pad from the upper removable frame segment. Those two components separate and the new one adheres back onto that upper frame section. While its fairly self explanatory, it would be nice to have an illustration of that separation.
Yes need more details, difficult to remove, not solid, mostly plastic film
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Dévissez trois vis cruciformes #000 de 3,7 mm.
This is also unnecessary for replacing the battery.
I found removing the loudspeaker assembly provided better access to the bottom edge of the battery, making it easier to remove.
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Ôtez l'ensemble haut-parleur.
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Déconnectez le connecteur de la batterie avec l'extrémité plate d'une spatule.
What is the best way to reattach the battery ribbon cable? I am struggling to attach the new one.
Hi Shawn,
Align the battery connector over the motherboard socket and use your finger to gently press the connector down. Sometimes, it's easier to align and connect the battery before you glue it into the phone. Make sure to disconnect the battery before you resume reassembly.
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Appliquez de l'alcool isopropylique à haute concentration (> 90 %) sous chaque coin de la batterie et laissez-le pénétrer pendant quelques minutes, pour ramollir l'adhésif.
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Vous pouvez également préparer un iOpener et l'appliquer directement sur la batterie pendant au moins deux minutes. Réchauffez et réappliquez l'iOpener si nécessaire.
Great tip - Especially as mid-pandemic, we have 85% Isopropyl in the house!
If you use isopropyl alcohol remember it will do water damage and destroy your phone if the liquid gets on components! It does dissolve the adhesive used to stick the battery in place, but it’s not safe to come into contact with other (very nearby) parts of your phone!
Hi Nate! It is actually pretty safe to use high concentration isopropyl (over 90%) alcohol during repairs—the liquid is not very conductive, evaporates quickly, and does not leave a residue. High concentration IPA is often used for board cleaning during manufacturing/repair processes. IPA is also used to clean and displace water for water-damaged devices.
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Faites levier avec un médiator pour soulever la batterie en commençant par le bas.
Very frustrating process. Not a kit problem, but the folks at Samsung must be a sadistic bunch to use so much adhesive to glue in a battery, No success removing yet after numerous reheatings. Cracked back cover, so proceeding with additional caution due to batter location. Cracked board below the battery would be a disaster.
Success in removing the battery after about 7 reheatings. To reassemble, I had to remove the fingerprint sensor in order to fasten the circuit back to the board. Wasn’t a big deal. Reused the cracked back cover since I always use a protective cover and waterproofing isn’t an issue for me.
Overall, I’m satisfied with the kit and the instructions. I just must have been too aggressive when dislodging the adhesive from the back cover.
I could not get a good angle with the pick to pry out the battery. I used the angled tweezers instead, although you need to be very careful not to puncture the battery. I inserted one tong of the tweezers along the bottom edge. I aligned the tweezer tip so it was flat against the front of the phone, parallel to the battery. Then I twisted the tweezers so the tip of the tong slipped under the battery. And I pulled the tweezers away from the front, continuing to twist the tip to keep it under the battery as I pulled the battery away from the adhesive. That worked quite well.
The dental floss trick works! So much easier to ‘floss’ out the battery than risking puncturing the battery.
Another vote for just prying up with tweezers. Be careful not to puncture, but it works fine and is quick.
This was quite easy for me, compared to the experience of others. I heated the iOpener for 30 seconds in a 1000 watt microwave, which brought it up to about 165 degrees F. I let it sit on the battery just like the directions indicated, for about 15 minutes. I tried to pry the battery up with an opening pick, but no dice. I reheated the iOpener for another 30 seconds, and it came out at about 192 degrees F, due to it being heated only about 15 minutes before. I let it sit for another 10 minutes on the battery or so. Then was able to work an opening pick under the battery from the bottom side of the phone, as indicated in the directions. It did require some force and sort of working the pick back and forth, but it went right under, and then I was able to pull it out the rest of the way with my fingers. Total time to remove the battery was about 30 minutes, including time spent heating the battery with the iOpener.
I was hesitatant to use my blowdryer to soften the glue behind the battery. So instead, I tried prying it open with the screwdriver (delivered in the tool kit) and punctured it in the proces. STUPID ME. There was smoke and a funny smell. Also the battery heated up. Luckily no flames or bloating up. I freaked out, went outside with the phone and battery still attached. I left it there for the night. The next morning I found this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vkQcmLVu.... It shows you how to remove the daughterboard. This frees up space on the top left corner of the battery. With the spudger you can get under the battery more easily. After this the battery removal was easy. Even without using a blowdryer.
Agree with what Damien said. If you have the screen off, it’s much easier to remove the battery from the other side (screen side). Just use the iOpener directly on the adhesive and slide a pick in very carefully. Seems like the floss tip is pretty useful, wish I had read this beforehand!
I had a swelled battery, and had a keyboard keycap puller (one of those that look like the H with a longer horizontal, and have 2 sizes of spaces), and wedged it under the bottom of the battery and used a sharpie to keep some pressure on it, and left it for a bit. After 20 mins the battery had partly popped free from the adhesive and was able to separate it the rest of the way. The swelling may have weakened the adhesive already.
I also agree they are sadistic with the adhesive. if they wanted it to stay in while making it, a simple small strip would have been enough! They likely wanted it not to be removeable, to force a new phone!
Bryan’s video link is the right solution. The daughter board is easily removed and makes removing the battery very easy.
Much easier if you remove the daughter board as Bryan suggests. It is a bit tricky to reconnect the board though.
I read all these comments. Getting more anxious as I read. However, I nuked the iOpener and laid on the battery for about 4 minutes and started prying with one of the blue triangle thingys. The battery basically popped out after about a minute of prying. IMHO I believe I had a helping hand since I am replacing a swollen battery and believe that the swelling is what helped loosen the glue. Since the swelling had also partially opened the case on the battery side with a gap of about 1/4". I am totally satisfied with the iFixit kit. My only complaint would be the delivery time to get the kit. I ordered on 01/02 and didn't receive it until 01/10. In total this saved buying a new phone. Thank you iFixit.
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Faites glisser le médiator vers le haut le long du côté de la batterie, pour faire céder l'adhésif restant.
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Ôtez la batterie de la coque.
There is no need to replace the adhesive for this battery. Please do your future fellow man a favor and do not replace the adhesive.
I got case adhesive but NO battery adhesive with note 8 kit
Battery I bought from iFixit worse than battery I took out.
No customer service on webpage.
Disappointed...
I’m sorry to hear that! We do have customer service—please contact our customer support and we will get the issue resolved!
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Après avoir réappliqué l'adhésif, suivez ces instructions dans l'ordre inverse pour réassembler votre appareil.
Après avoir complété ce tutoriel,
Après avoir réappliqué l'adhésif, suivez ces instructions dans l'ordre inverse pour réassembler votre appareil.
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43 commentaires
Who are these geniuses that engineer a cell phone that requires complicated surgery in order to replace a faulty or dead battery? Really? And this POS costs the yuppified zombies how much?
Mate, check a term “planned obsolescence” on wikipedia. Even if 1/50 of people won't replace a battery but buy a new Samsung, it is a 1 extra cellphone sold. It was designed on purpose hard to remove.
Slavomir -
to make phone sistant and if you take how much thinks are in new phones of course they are complicated its same as new cars sorry but new technology is more sophisticated
Mine was stolen, it would be gone forever if they were able to pull out battery right away. But since I was calling and sending “play alert" commands through find my phone server, thieves were tired of it and left it on a sidewalk wrapped in paper and a t-shirt.
sen-q -
waterproofing?
What type of adhesive do you use to stick the phone back
Hi! In our store you’ll find a rear cover adhesive strip for the S8. In the event that that’s sold out, we recommend using Tesa Tape—the 2 mm width should work well for this repair.
This was wild. I hope I don’t have to use this knowledge for awhile. Why doesn’t Samsung just tell you to send it back and they will fix it for the price of a new battery? If I pay $800-$1,000 for a phone that I can’t change the battery on after a year or two, I’m going to be !#^&@@ at Samsung. Should we all complain to them about making this service available or having them advertise the lack of battery changing before a customer buys it?
that’s the issue. Like Apple, Samsung want you to buy another new phone every year instead of replace the battery.
This process did NOT work for me. I purchased the kit and spare battery thinking it would be as easy as the video shows. However, after multiple attempts and several different hot pads later, the cover did not budge AT ALL. Now, I’m stuck with a kit that didn’t work and a battery (not even a Samsung replacement battery like the site stated), and nothing to show for it. Not being able to replace any battery in any electrical device on your own is just a poor engineering letdown, especially in such an expensive phone.
There are versions of phones with waterproof battery compartments and certainly they could maintain their ability to control waterproofing the product of they still redesigned the access to the back cover via a more robust removable rear cover with gasket.
But with rear main cover more secure with screws possibly?
I'm not going to spell out how to tell them to make their phones, but maybe they might consider how users want to have the ability to change the battery themselves, and maintain the control of the device without sending it to a repair site for some time period.
Think of all the professional customers, besides all the soccer moms, students and retirees who they might dismiss right away.
Military & Government Officials, maybe even Senior Company Executives and tech companies that use these for everything from email and texting to secure encrypted NSA stuff.
Make it so they can be field repaired with a fresh battery seems like a no brainer?
That's my 2 cents!
Hello All,
I went through the comments and two of them caught my attention.
1. Will the phone still be water resistant after this ?
Thanks
aperret - 01/01/2018
I could not see a reply to this question.
2. Just ordered the battery, but curious if anyone has any feedback in terms of reliability and if they get the same battery life out of a single charge versus the original.
Jacob Fulbright - April 9
Is anyone able to provide some feedback?
Thank you
Bogdan
Thanks for the questions!
1. In theory the phone could still be water resistant, but I definitely wouldn’t expect that unless it was repaired by a professional—even then I’d still be pretty careful. In my experience it’s really easy to compromise ingress protections during a repair, so I generally just assume that my repairs are no longer up to the same water resistance standards as they were before.
2. We test our batteries to make sure they’re up to OE standards. If you aren’t getting close to the same life as you were with your original battery, contact our support team.
Good luck with your repair!
Regarding Question number two: I replaced the original battery of my Galaxy s8 with an Ifixit s8 Battery and after around half a year, the batterylife began to decrease and now my nine months old battery performs quite bad. I only get around two hours of screen on time in energy saving mode.
I hope i could help you with That
Kind regards
Sorry to hear your battery isn’t working well. Feel free to contact our support team for some help with that.
Replaced battery and a severely cracked back panel for a total of about $70 (750 NOK).
Less hassle and much cheaper than getting a new phone.
The glue holding down the battery is easily softened with some isopropyl alcohol.
A little warning: The NFC Antenna and Charging Coil Assembly has a rubbery feel to it. This substance does NOT like isopropyl alcohol and will disintegrate if you accidentally get some on there. It shouldn’t really matter much, but better keep the alcohol away from it.
After heating up the adhesive to the battery, it is a lot easier to go from the top where the battery connection is with your halberd spudger and just push it under the battery until it releases. Took me 2 minutes to heat up the adhesive then maybe 10 seconds to remove the battery from the case using the sponger. Also i gave up on the iopener and started using a hair dryer, worked way better.
There is a lot of adhesive on the back cover at the bottom of the S8, it goes about 1.5” up - its a lot of area to get through. Go very easy and make sure the adhesive is well softened with heat. You can go deep under the cover with whatever thin plastic tool you are using to separate the cover since theres nothing to damage in the area - but if you go too fast or pry too hard here the cover will break.
Aftermarket covers are very cheap (likely not gorilla glass), so it may just be better to be prepared to replace it if your original plan was to only replace the battery.
After an hour of iOpener’ing and suction cupping I now have a completely shattered back glass piece.
Picks, halbread, none of the tools included were thin enough, or strong enough to get into the seam opening. Further pulling on the suction cup shattered the entire back glass.
Waste of $80.
Hi Bob,
I’m really sorry to hear about your repair! The back glass for Samsung devices are notoriously difficult to remove due to the adhesive. At this point, you got past the hardest part of the repair! The fix is still salvageable with a replacement back glass, which can be found for a reasonable price.
The iOpener works surprisingly well. It does involve patience, I think I applied it a good 4 or 5 times at least to get the adhesive to give way. It was confusing where to put the new adhesive and I had to remove part of a piece around the camera in order to allow the fingerprint sensor to reattach. It would be nice if it were more clear where the adhesive went, nonetheless, I firmly believe that this is a good kit and I only broke one of the 6 picks. Definitely a moderate fix, but possible with some patience. It took me about 3-4 hours total with breaks. I spent a LOT of time using alcohol, picks and the spudger in order to remove the old adhesive. It did not matter that much in the end though.
I had no issues using the iOpener, though full disclosure the back of my S8 had almost completely separated from the body due to a ballooning battery, hence the reason for this repair.
Replacing the battery on the S8 takes waaaaay longer than the 20 minutes - 1 hour indicated. Start to finish it took me about 6 hours. Scraping off the old adhesive is incredibly tedious and time consuming. Additionally, lining up the new adhesive just right is very tricky, as you only get one shot at it. Once it’s on there’s no adjusting it. That plus the many trips back and forth to the microwave with the iOpener really adds up.
I spent an entire Sunday afternoon replacing my battery, but the result was perfect so I guess I can’t complain.
The battery in my Samsung Galaxy S8 is swollen and the back cover has popped almost all the way off. I used a guitar pick to carefully pry the rest of the back cover off. Now I am just waiting for my ifixit battery replacement kit to arrive. I was computer repair technician for many years earlier in my career, so I understand the delicate nature of these kind of repairs. My question is, while I know I should proceed with extreme caution due to the swollen battery, should I avoid using heat (applying the iOpener) to the battery to soften the glue? Seems like applying heat to a swollen battery is very dangerous. Should I use the alcohol method instead?
Yes, for your safety, avoid using heat if the battery is swollen. Use alcohol and plenty of patience/care. Rather than prying, see if you can slip a piece of floss underneath the battery to gently separate it. See ++What to do with a swollen battery++
Lösen des hinteren Glases nach dieser Anleitung nicht möglich. Man kommt nicht an die inneren Klebestreifen und das Glas bricht. Jetzt habe ich einen neuen Akkug aber eine komplett gesprungene Rückseite trotz mehrfahchem erwärmen und sehr vorsichtig sein. Sehr enttäuschend, davon habe ich mir mehr erwartet!
I made this repair around nine months ago and for the first half Year the Ifixit Battery performed well. But after that time the battery drained very fast and i only get around 2 hours screen on time on energy saving mode. Right now the runtime is around the same as with the 3 years old original battery. Thats dissapointing because Ifixit is one of the only places you can buy good repair parts.
I replied to your comment above, but in case you don’t see that, please contact our support team for help with your battery.
This guide is great! Thanks!
A hard part that wasn’t described in the guide was how to get the extremely short connector for the thumbprint reader to reconnect. Ended up needing a flashlight and the tweezers to get it reseated with nearly no spare to get it connected! They really should have made it longer so could connect it easier with a greater separation.
Appreciate the “19” steps but timing is waaaaay off! Started at 1:50pm, took till 3:25 just to remove the rear cover (using the iopener)! Took another hour to get the battery out! Battery back in at 4:50pm - after cleaning off the glue. Took till 5:45 to clean the glued areas of the phone, ready for the new back cover. By the way, as I was using a new replacement cover it took 30 minutes to remove finger-print sensor, clean off the glue and re-install it on the new cover. Complete re-assembly was completed at 6:23pm. Tested okay by 6:28pm. of note |I did have all the necessary IFixit gear! So successful install was completed in just over 4 1/2 hours!
Need to show how to apply the adhesive foil thing that comes with the ifixit battery replacement kit.
Hi Neil,
we have a general “How to apply custom-cut adhesive strips” guide which might help you.
Why the !&&* don’t you include the %#*@ Tesa tape in the kit????
Or at least tell the customer when they order that they will need Tesa tape as well so be sure to order that?
So removing the battery
I scratched the black pad
That the battery lays on
Exposing a brass sheet
S8 Samsung will this affect
The phone
Hi David,
That pad is a heat dissipation layer, and the copper sheet is used for shielding and heat dissipation. Scratching the pad won't affect the phone.
Super Anleitung, ich fände sie allerdings noch besser, wenn man auch ein Bild bringen würde, wie die ausgestanzten Klebepads auf den Deckel angebracht werden.
Und als Hinweis für andere, kratzt nicht zu sehr am Deckel um die Klebereste zu entfernen, ich hab jetzt kleine Punkte auf der Rückseite, weil ich die Farbe (?) abgekratzt habe. Und ich habe mit einem Plektrum gekratzt, falls die Frage aufkommt.
This is a joke. The instructions for opening the back cover don't make a lot of sense. The suction cup just lifts the whole phone off the table, and the iopener dosen't do anything at all. I reckon the phone in the video was already disassembled in a factory before the video was filmed.
Worst of all, the replacement battery is generic, and according to some other comments here, won't last very long at all. I mostly blame Samsung for making it impossible to easily replace the battery yourself, but still this replaement kit seems a really useless product.
Overall, the repair kit is a complete waste of money!
Muito obrigado, foi “show”
Well-Working Kit and Tutorial
Hello - like so many others following the tutorial, I shattered my back plate quite a bit. However, I was a bit impatient and omitted using the iOpener almost entirely, so that broken part is on me and I am either way using a protector case, which is why I do not care too much.
I agree with mike howell's comment, that it is way easier, to remove the old battery by using the spudger and removing the battery from the upper side, instead of the lower side and the picks which are quite bendy.
Overall, I am very happy with the repairing process and the time. I think I invested slightly less than an hour - investing slightly more time probably avoids shattering the back plate.
Thank you very much!
Easy enough to do on an old but still virgin phone, the only pain was cleaning it up enough to get a new seal on.
Pulled the back off with nothing but methanol, suction cup and a spring steel spudger.
Honestly buy a spare back with pre applied seal from the usual suspects. If you're doing repairs for money and time is important then don't be scared to shatter the back glass. Let the customer know just in case they don't like the pricing.
I didn't find this to be as hard as I had built it up in my mind to be; HOWEVER, saying that I need to say years ago I was the local Nokia service center in my town. But many years ago right after they got rid of analog times. Yeah. A classic installer/repairer mistake when starting something they haven't fixed or installed before is picking up the instructions, flipping through them; maybe even reading a section that is new-then tossing the instructions over the shoulder. "I got this." This usually comes right before something major gets broke. And I can tell you when you try to do it yourself and then mess it up horribly then take it to the repair shop. Well we called that "I can do it myself" syndrome and charged extra to put back together what they brought in in the box. Now knowing all this - I can't stress this enough because I am stupid, stupid, stupid. COVER YOUR SCREEN IN CLEAR BOXING TAPE AND READ ALL THE INSTRUCTION BELOW THROUGH TO THE END BEFORE EVEN ATTEMPTING THIS FIX. Take my advise.
windizy - Réponse
I didn't have an iOpener, so I used a wheat type heat bag. If you do this though, make sure you put a layer of plastic between your Mac and the bag, or you'll get condensation in places you don't want it.
Martin Gray - Réponse
I started out using the iOpener but switched to my wife's hairdryer. A heat gun or hair dryer proved to be much more convenient and is a time saviour. You can heat more and the glue becomes more fluid make the next steps with the opening picks much easier
Jan Van Puymbroeck - Réponse
I know this is obvious, but backup your iPad with iTunes before you start. I'd also turn off your passcode if you have one.
Laurie Higgins - Réponse
Ther first time you heat up the iOpener for this repair when its room temperature I had to heat it up for more than 30 seconds. I remember I had to heat it up for around 45 seconds. However, after that when you need to reheat it again during the repair 30 seconds will be enough.
Yousef Ghalib - Réponse
I used the wheat bag in a sensor microwave heating up to 65-70 deg C (155 def F).
ian cheong - Réponse
Get yourself a cherry pit bean bag the size of your iPad. Heat it, put the iPad on it for 3 to 5 minutes or so, reheat the cherry pit bean bag, again put your iPad on it. Then heat the iOpener and start working. The cherry pit bean bag will have to be reheated several times, but it will soften the adhesive so you have less problems with the iOpener
Tim Feyaerts - Réponse
The heating can be done very effectively (and quickly) with 3d printer heated bed. Make sure the bed is clean. Set the temperature to 60c, (130f ) and put the ipad face down for +/- 10 minutes. Repeat as needed throughout the “gentle prying” stages.
polleyphony - Réponse
The iOpener did not work at all for me.
I had to use a heat gun and bring the edges of the case up to ~200 degrees (used an infrared thermometer to measure) before the glue would weaken. This obviously superheated the metal frame, so I also had to wear gloves to handle the phone while prying the back off with the included picks.
Mike Jeanette - Réponse
Repair instructions worked like a charm. Had to be patient with the iOpener and getting the screen off. I tried repeatedly without success until shifting the suction cup a bit to the left side where perhaps the glue had loosened up a bit more.
Kyle - Réponse
The iOpener, in my opinion, is of no help. Many warnings to say “don’t warm it too much”, but the glue doesn’t melt if not warm enough. As a result, a complete waste of time and energy. In addition, too much liquid in it, so it doesn’t lay on the device on a sufficient surface. I took a hairdryer and it worked much much better.
laurentvidu - Réponse
I used an immersion bath to heat this to 180F and applied it to the device until the outside temperature of the opener read 150F with an IR thermometer. Removing the screen took very little force with this method.
breadandbits - Réponse
My experience. I was replacing the screen which had been cracked and a little shattered in some places. The iopener is pretty much useless, so was the suction cup. The suction cup would probably be more useful if I was doing something besides the screen. Also you probably want the clean the screen before using it so it can get good suction. I used a hair dryer on high for a couple of minutes at a time (someone on this tread suggested that). I used my exacto knife and a razor blade to get into the adhesive. First the exacto to get the initial cut, then the razor blade to go a little deeper. Could have probably just used the razor blade, but the exacto has a little more finesse. I got the razor blade in and a little under the glass then I used the picks to wedge in. I didn’t want to risk anything using the razor blade too much. Used tape to keep the shattered glass together.
trebor65 - Réponse
My experience pt2
Fortunately the shattering was mostly on the edges and most of it had adhesive on the back so it stuck together. Just take your time and work your way around following the guide to get the screen off. Have some goof off or goo be gone to clean the frame when putting the new glass on or putting the existing one back. (someone suggested that also, very good idea). Be careful of the LCD (you should know that). The cable on my LCD was pretty tight, so I propped it up while taking the cable cover off and when I put it back on I did the same thing. I just put a bottle on the battery and leaned the back of the LCD on that while attaching the cables and putting the screws back on the cover. Also be careful with the home button and the bracket on the back of it. I had enough old adhesive on left on the bracket that it stuck back to the new glass fine. So far only 12 hours in, so we will see how that holds up when the kids get at it.
trebor65 - Réponse
Another alternative if you do not have the iopener is to use a bed time hotwater bottle. Do not over fill it though. Just put enough hot water in to support the phone while you work around the adhesive.
I use both the hot water bottle and iopener together on Samsung's. It makes life easier
gazza667 - Réponse
I followed the directions and heated my iOpener for 30 seconds in a 1000 watt microwave, and it came out at 160 degrees F, as verified by a infrared thermometer. This allowed me to separate the last bit of the back of my Samsung S8, which was already coming off due to a swollen battery (hence the reason for the repair).
Dennis - Réponse
Hallo,habe den Akku erfolgreich getauscht.Doch seitdem gibt es bei Telefonaten eine Rückkopplung für den anrufenden.Bei mir ist alles normal.Woran liegt das?Mfg
Manu R - Réponse
If you follow these instructions, you will crack your screen like I did. Heating the iOpener for 30 seconds, using it to melt glue, then waiting 10 minutes to reheat is useless. The iOpener can be used to maybe warm the glue on whatever side you aren’t working on. You need a hairdryer and/or a heat gun to melt the glue and separate the glass from the iPad.
Anyone want to buy an old iPad with broken glass and a dead battery?
mpulliam - Réponse
Not everybody has a microwave. You should provide a target temperature for the iOpener and instructions for a conventional oven, or pot of warm water, or whatever. Although I will probably use a heat gun …
Esmond Pitt - Réponse
Three times heating opener and no luck. Tried pressing down gently on opener with a towel, and the opener broke. Wondering if I now replace table mats, fancy table cloth, etc. or will this stuff wash out.
Not impressed so far. Maybe the hair dryer next.
doug - Réponse
I support the comments about the iOpener. Everyone has a hair drier, FHS, so get a cheap IR thermometer (£18) and blow heat until the area is 60+ deg C. Still takes w while, and getting the screen off is v scary, but just add more heat if you feel resistance.
The rest of the kit is good, esp the magnetic screwdrivers.
Richard O'Brien - Réponse
No, everyone does not have a hairdryer. Some of us don’t even have hair. Thank goodness I already had an IR thermometer, though.
nin10doh -
#### WARNUNG WENN MINIMALSTER SPRUNG IM DISPLAY IST FUNKTIONERT DAS NICHT!!! ######
Hatte einen winzigen, minimalen Sprung im Display. Ich dachte es könnte gehen, weil der Sprung “abgeschlossen” war. Er hat in einer Ecke ein winzige Glasteil rausgeschnitten. NEIN! Geht nicht. Habe alles mit viel Geduld dem iOpener und einem Föhn erhitzt. Es ist trotzdem sofort über das komplette Display zersprungen…
T z - Réponse
I’ve started with iOpener but changed very quickly to a heatgun. That was more efficient.
Mizzoo, s.r.o. - Réponse
I could not get the iOpener hot enough to melt the glue on my ipad 6. I heated for 45 seconds once and it was boiling and it still never worked. Thank goodness contributors mentioned using a hair dryer. Using an 1700w hair dryer on high did the trick to get the screen off. Still took some time and the case got pretty hot but be patient. It took twice as long and a lot more patience to get the battery out.
Randal Haufler - Réponse
I have an Ipad with touch screen issue, if i replace this part it should be Ok?
janderson martin - Réponse
WARNING - DO NOT MICROWAVE ON A METAL MICROWAVE RACK
The metal microwave rack can heat up and melt through the iOpener cover letting the contents leak out.
Not a big issue for me as I have a heat gun and used that instead.
Run Up A Tree - Réponse
I opened my iPad with the iOpener. Be patient! It may take quite a bit longer to it the iOpener in the microwave than it says in the guide. My microwave can only do 800W and I had to put the iOpener in several times (maybe a total of 90-120 seconds). I recommend that you have the transparent side up an watch the bag carefully. As long a the bag doesn't bloat up and the liquid doesn't start bubbling you should be fine. But I recommend to take the iO out from time to time to check it. (More comments in Step 6.)
marcelflueeler - Réponse
I gave upon the I opener and used a hairdryer. (Fixed an iPad 6)
Tom Weber - Réponse
iPad mini gen5. I used the iOpener. My microwave is 1200w with carousel. 30 sec got the iOpener to 155ºF. For the 2nd heating, after 10 minutes sitting, the temp was still around 125º so I only cooked it for 15 sec. Not enough increase so +5 sec more which me to 165-170ºF. This should be considered ballpark info because who knows the real output of the various microwaves and the quality of the IR tool used to determine temp.
To successfully open my iPad mini I applied the iOpener twice to the left edge and twice to bottom. & once to R edge. Using the suction cup was difficult for me (I'm in my 70's so my hands don't work too well anymore). I had trouble holding the guitar pick and slipping them in (at an downward angle). In the end, sliding my thumbnail along the edge opened it very slightly and allowed the pick to get into the gap. I marked the ends of all my picks with a sharpie pen for the recommended 2mm insertion to avoid going in too deep. To get the screen open it took me approx 1 hour.
jharrison - Réponse
Can’t you just use a hair curler instead?
Aspect22 - Réponse
A hairdryer or heat gun works, if heating is kept around 100 deg C (212 deg F - boiling point of water). But… heating this way is cumbersome. Using a hotplate, set to 100 deg C, measured carefully with a fairly inexpensive IR gun, is simpler and easier, if you can afford the hotplate (I used an old pancake griddle with a thermostat knob). It works great for phones, setting them face down for 2 minutes, then picking them up with insulated gloves - cheap, wool gloves work fine. This may require repeated reheating to continue the display removal, but its much simpler.
Because its almost impossible to repeatedly lay an iPad/tablet on the hot plate, I propose an alternative.
Initially lay the larger iPad/tablet, face down, for 2 min, to heat all of the adhesive surrounding the display. Lift and begin the picking process describe in your removal steps. Then lay an iOpener on the hotplate for 2 min (already set to the exact, desired temp) to bring it to working temp for the remaining operations.
Dan Smith - Réponse
For iPads in particular, it makes sense to construct a simple, aluminum window frame, laid on a hotplate (see my comment above) that only touches the edges of the display, heating only the adhesive underneath. This prevents general heating of the entire device. Four strips of aluminum, placed together as a frame, would be the simplest and allow variations for all devices - envision it as a pinwheel of strips, radiating outward. Use it for any size device.
Dan Smith - Réponse
BTW, always read all comments at each step. New, and possibly useful, suggestions appear on occasion that can be crucial.
Dan Smith - Réponse