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Introduction

Utilisez ce tutoriel pour remplacer la carte E/S.

  1. Avant de commencer, éteignez votre MacBook. Fermez l'écran et posez-le à l'envers sur une surface souple.
    • Avant de commencer, éteignez votre MacBook. Fermez l'écran et posez-le à l'envers sur une surface souple.

    • Utilisez un tournevis P5 Pentalobe pour retirer les dix vis qui fixent le boîtier inférieur, dont les dimensions sont les suivantes :

    • Deux vis de 9 mm

    • Huit vis de 2,6 mm

    Pulling the fan cable out was terrifying but you actually just pull on the cable itself. No way to get any leverage at the connector to dislodge it. Did come out easily but like I said, scared me!

    allison - Réponse

    Draai de schroefjes voorzichtig los en leg ze op een stabiele plek neer en let erop dat de schroefje een verschillende lengte hebben.

    bwgvanderveer - Réponse

    I thought I could replace my 256 Gb SSD with 512? regards

    ola m - Réponse

    Do you have good Test Point Voltages? It appears there are silver colored Test points on the I/O Board. I am working on a water spill and trying to troubleshoot if both the I/O board and the Logic need replaced.

    andrew - Réponse

    It's probably not necessary but may be a little safer to completely discharge the old battery before replacing it.

    Larry Smith - Réponse

    tell a model that was not inferior to the speed of the one in the laptop.

    Thank you

    ilyabuhov - Réponse

    Do i need to order tools separately to replace the battery i just ordered?

    anne uhlir - Réponse

    im looking for a Logic Board for a

    Apple - MacBook Air® - 13.3" Display - Intel Core i5 - 8GB Memory - 128GB Flash Storage (Latest Model) - Silver Model: MQD32LL/A

    Any help is appreciated.

    Jamie Comstock - Réponse

    P5 pentalobe screwdrivers are too big! The correct size for these screws are p4 pentalobe. P5 pentalobe was just able, with difficulty, to turn some of the screws. If the screws were at all tight, my p5 was unable to get them out, and started to strip the screws. A p4 screwdriver fit better and removed the screws with ease. (I was using high quality Wiha brand screwdrivers.)

    William Skinner - Réponse

    I had same experience (with MacBook Air 13-inch Mid-2012) … had to get P4, which worked swimmingly

    eric -

    Very simple installation. The screwdriver heads were exactly what we’re needed, one head for the outside case screws, the other for the screws holding the battery in place. The computer started right up. Now to see how the battery holds up, but I have a good feeling about this!

    Dennis Eaton - Réponse

    My P5 and the T5 worked perfectly with my early 2015 Air 13”! And it is super fast! Thank you iFixit!

    Pennny Beach - Réponse

    The supplied kit and instructions worked perfectly!

    Nikolay Andreev - Réponse

    Comments that the P5 pentalobe are too large are absolutely spot-on. There is no way the P5 pentalobe bit I have will work with the MacBook Air without destroying the screws. Hard target search for P4 pentalobe bit in progress…..

    joemoog - Réponse

    Bonjour j’aimerais changer mon SSD de 128 Go pour en mettre un de 512 Go. Je ne sais pas ce qu’il faut prendre car il faut qu’il soit compatible avec le macbook air A1466. J’aurais vu un Samsung Evo 970 500 Go mais si je ne me trompe pas, il faut un adaptateur.

    Merci pour votre aide.

    chicco33 - Réponse

    oui, vous aurez besoin d’un adaptateur, pour completez le changement.

    Dan -

    The tool kit should include tweezers for re-inserting the battery connector.

    Andre Clement - Réponse

    P5 pentalobe worked perfectly for me. Instructions were spot-on. Antenna connections were a bit fiddly to refit but got them in ok.

    michaelquinnell - Réponse

    Maybe the problem some are experiencing is that the designations are confusing (blame Apple rather than iFixit). the P2 is also known as PL1. The P5 is also known as PL4. The P6 is also known as PL5. So it is possible to mistake the P6 (PL5) for the P5 (PL4), meaning it (P6-PL5) will be too big, while the P5 (PL4) will be just right. Sort of a 3 Bears explanation, but it is very confusing.

    Thomas Lewis - Réponse

    To add to this. In searching for the P5 screwdriver to buy in UK, as far as I can tell, it is also known as

    Pentalobe 1.2(mm)

    also

    P4 = 0.8

    P6 = 1.5

    Just unscrewed the back case of MacBook Air 13” mid 2011, with no problems using Pentalobe 1.2

    nijafe -

    I have not replaced a display on the A1369 but have done many A1466 which is a newer 13” model. They seem really similar and its not clear why one needs to remove the logic board to remove the display. The antenna cables on the A1466 dont have to rest under the logic board but can be tucked in the hinge crevice. Cant this same thing be done with the A1369?

    Sean Love - Réponse

    Did mine today - but new battery wasnt charging. Went back in and noticed the battery connector cable was not quite 100% “seated. It was sticking out by less than a millimetre! - you need to give it quite a firm push in to get it seated properly. Otherwise - all ok .

    John Brennand - Réponse

    Just installed on a MacBookAir6,2 (13-inch, Early 2014).

    Was very easy.

    New iFixit battery looks great so far:

    Full Charge Capacity (mAh): 4922 -> 7333

    Jonathan Cross - Réponse

    can you tell me which size of screwdrivers you’ve used to crack it up, please? I have the same model and size,

    hawk_lpc -

    Screw P5 Pentalobe 1.2

    Mario Verlent - Réponse

    Install went flawlessly. Only challange was reattaching blue tooth antennas. Those sockets are so tiny.

    Joel Sebastian - Réponse

    Installation was a little challenging at first because the instructions on this site did not perfectly match my model (late 2013 to early 2015).

    Found this video on YouTube which described the procedure perfectly https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lue6lVWh...

    Also the Ifixit kit I received was well put together with everything I needed and more. The calibration went perfectly and I am very pleased. Will buy again!!

    Donald Niamath - Réponse

    Gently pulled out connector of old battery, then pressed and held the power switch for 1 minute. Unscrewed and removed the old battery. Pressed and held power switch for 1 minute again. I know from previous work that this helps drain charge from spontaneous recharging as the dielectric recovers. Gently “fine tuned” leads from new battery to connector till connector stuck out at right angle to the edge of battery. Held the battery by the edges and let the connector slide into the socket. Set the battery down and put the screws in all the way. Then checked that the connector was completely seated before tightening the screws. The laptop come on immediately and showed 98% charge and registered normal (checked in “About this Mac”. Very happy to this point. Now for calibration.

    Amir Zaidi - Réponse

    Thank you very much for the guilde. My MBA2011 had reborn !

    Billy Wong - Réponse

    Allow for electrostatics, otherwise you may cook components on the logicboard /motherboard (like I did with one of these!)

    See great advice: Electrostatic Discharge

    Fletcher Cole - Réponse

    … und wenn du eines von diesen wirklich kleinen Schräubchen vermisst: bevor du den Boden aufkehrst oder mit einem starken Magneten absuchst, schau mal am seitlichen (magnetischen) Ladekabelanschluss nach … ?

    ... and if you miss one of these really small screws: before you sweep the floor or search it with a strong magnet, take a look at the (magnetic) charging cable connection on the side … ?

    Blatt - Réponse

  2. Mettez vos doigts entre l'écran et le boîtier inférieur et tirez vers le haut pour détacher le boîtier inférieur.
    • Mettez vos doigts entre l'écran et le boîtier inférieur et tirez vers le haut pour détacher le boîtier inférieur.

    • Enlevez la partie inférieure et mettez-la de côté.

    There is a nub on the inside of the case which is attached to the battery. When you try to pull it open, it appears to be attached to the plastic casing of the battery, which sometimes splits. I gently unhooked the nub from the battery before removing the case fully. This seems to happen if the battery has suffered some drop damage (plastic parts broken around screws and parts of plastic frame split). Just an FYI in case your lower case doesn't pull away easily.

    Jeannie Crowley - Réponse

    To add - the slim 1cm tab “nub” is on the centre of the back cover & fits into a hole in the battery frame. I ran my fingers around the whole of the cover to eventually here it click out.

    nijafe -

    When closing this back up make sure that the antenna cable is tucked away neatly

    Gabriel - Réponse

    So this is a legit back cover for MacBook Air?

    ASHANTI SMITH - Réponse

    What about disconnecting the battery?

    Luke Grimes - Réponse

    I bought the part and tools from iFixit and followed the directions. The mechanical part went smoothly - maybe 10 minutes to disassemble/replace/reassemble.

    Getting Catalina (the current MacOS) to install was not working until I used Cmd-Opt-R (as noted in the OWC paper sheet that came in the box) which brought up the proper installer - I believe from a pre-prepared bootable SD card but it’s hard to say. From there the install succeeded taking ~1.5 hours.

    Beware that (a) the install requires a working internet connection for verification and updates, and (b) the system must have been running at least macOs 10.13 (High Sierra) before the install in order to have an EFI BIOS that recognizes the SSD.

    Lance Berc - Réponse

  3. Afin de s'assurer que l'ordinateur est bien hors tension et ne se rallumera pas pendant la procédure, il est recommandé de déconnecter la batterie. Saisissez la languette en plastique transparent attachée au connecteur de la batterie et tirez-la parallèlement à la surface de la carte mère en direction du bord avant de l'appareil.
    • Afin de s'assurer que l'ordinateur est bien hors tension et ne se rallumera pas pendant la procédure, il est recommandé de déconnecter la batterie.

    • Saisissez la languette en plastique transparent attachée au connecteur de la batterie et tirez-la parallèlement à la surface de la carte mère en direction du bord avant de l'appareil.

    • Ne tirez pas vers le haut sur le connecteur pendant que vous le déconnectez, vous risqueriez d'endommager la prise du connecteur.

    after disconnect the battery, press and hold 5*10 seconds the powerbutton on your keyboard to unload the capacitors

    Marcel - Réponse

    how does a person put the battery connector back in?- that is the only thing i’m afraid of touching after putting new fan in.

    a smith - Réponse

    I found it was possible to put the battery connector back in as the last step, however having gone through that and found it to be a little challenging, I would actually recommend attaching the battery connector before screwing back in the bracket. That way you’ll put a lot less stress on the connector cable.

    Kevin Epstein -

    When you are plugging the connector back in, make sure to give it some extra pressure to make sure it is all the way in. It may look like it’s in but needs to be pushed harder!

    Connor Dougherty - Réponse

  4. Utilisez l'extrémité plate d'un spudger pour tirer le connecteur de la nappe de la carte E/S hors de sa prise sur la carte E/S.
    • Utilisez l'extrémité plate d'un spudger pour tirer le connecteur de la nappe de la carte E/S hors de sa prise sur la carte E/S.

    When putting this back together, be careful you don’t flip I/O board cable. It will fit, but the computer will not work. You’ll know it’s wrong if it covers the fan.

    Tito Jankowski - Réponse

  5. Décollez soigneusement la nappe de la carte E/S de l'adhésif la fixant en haut du ventilateur.
    • Décollez soigneusement la nappe de la carte E/S de l'adhésif la fixant en haut du ventilateur.

    the instructions should really indicate you’re only disconnecting one end of the cable. you disconnect the other end in step 6.

    Tom O'Leary - Réponse

    Bonjour,quand je retire la nappe de la carte E/S , l’éclairage de l’écran s’affiche mais quand je remets la nappe de la carte E/S ,j’ai un écran noir.J’attends votre réponse.Cordialement.

    Halston Halston - Réponse

    I literally did this wrong just like you warned not to! Very easy to do…

    Edward Mills - Réponse

  6. La prise du connecteur suivant est particulièrement profonde. Faites attention lorsque vous le débranchez. En tirant doucement sur la nappe de la carte E/S vers le haut, près de sa connexion à la carte mère, utilisez l'extrémité plate d'un spudger pour travailler à tour de rôle sur les côtés du connecteur pour le faire "sortir" de sa prise.
    • La prise du connecteur suivant est particulièrement profonde. Faites attention lorsque vous le débranchez.

    • En tirant doucement sur la nappe de la carte E/S vers le haut, près de sa connexion à la carte mère, utilisez l'extrémité plate d'un spudger pour travailler à tour de rôle sur les côtés du connecteur pour le faire "sortir" de sa prise.

    • Retirez la nappe de la carte E/S.

  7. Utilisez la pointe d'un spudger pour retourner soigneusement le clapet de retenue de la prise ZIF du ventilateur.
    • Utilisez la pointe d'un spudger pour retourner soigneusement le clapet de retenue de la prise ZIF du ventilateur.

    • Assurez-vous de faire levier sur le clapet de retenue à charnière et non sur la prise même.

    I did not find it necessary to loosed the retainer flap, unplug the ribbon cable from it's socket, or remove the fan. After removing the fan screws in Step 9, the fan was loose enough that it can be slightly moved to the side. I felt that loosening the retaining flap and removing the fan adds unnecessary potential to damage something. To the contrary, if you bump the fan while it's plugged in, you might damage the ribbon cable.

    Michael Kruger - Réponse

    My retaining flap broke instantly when lifting up with the spudger. Is that normal or possible to fix?

    Cameron Lawrence - Réponse

    Similar problem, but with the microphone flap. Did you manage to fix it or get it back in?

    Edwin -

  8. Décollez le joint en caoutchouc de l'adhésif sur le dessus du ventilateur.
    • Décollez le joint en caoutchouc de l'adhésif sur le dessus du ventilateur.

    In my case the adhesive had already come undone through normal use.

    Tito Jankowski - Réponse

  9. Retirez les trois vis suivantes fixant le ventilateur au boîtier :
    • Retirez les trois vis suivantes fixant le ventilateur au boîtier :

    • Une vis Torx T5 de 3,6 mm

    • Une vis Torx T5 de 2,7 mm

    • Une vis Torx T5 de 3,6 mm avec une tête courte

    I found it easier to do step 11 before this one.

    maccentric - Réponse

    During reassembly don’t forget the ribbon cable.

    Rhiannon Orizaga - Réponse

  10. Soulevez le ventilateur du côté de la carte E/S et tirez-le du boîtier supérieur. Le retrait du ventilateur déconnecte également la nappe du ventilateur. Veillez à ne pas la déchirer.
    • Soulevez le ventilateur du côté de la carte E/S et tirez-le du boîtier supérieur.

    • Le retrait du ventilateur déconnecte également la nappe du ventilateur. Veillez à ne pas la déchirer.

    It is a lot easier to insert the flat ribbon in its socket before placing the fan back in place. BUT DO NOT YET FLIP BACK the retaining flap, until you have seated and screwed the fan. This way in case you pull on the fan by mistake, the flat ribbon is free to come out, otherwise you may tear it.

    Rany - Réponse

    I did not find it necessary to remove the fan or unplug the ribbon cable from it's socket. After removing the fan screws, the fan was loose enough that it can be slightly moved to the side. I felt that loosening the retaining flap and removing the fan adds unnecessary potential to damage something. To the contrary, if you bump the fan while it's plugged in, you might damage the ribbon cable.

    Michael Kruger - Réponse

  11. Déconnectez la carte E/S en retirant son câble d'alimentation de sa prise sur la carte mère.
    • Déconnectez la carte E/S en retirant son câble d'alimentation de sa prise sur la carte mère.

    • Tirez le câble parallèlement à la surface de la carte mère vers le bord droit de l'Air.

    It requires a somewhat concerning amount of force. I mean, be careful, but I pulled just slightly more than I was comfortable with (for the first time)

    Elijah Kennedy - Réponse

  12. Utilisez l'extrémité plate d'un spudger pour tirer le connecteur du câble du haut-parleur gauche vers le haut et hors de sa prise sur la carte E/S. Faites levier en dessous des fils.
    • Utilisez l'extrémité plate d'un spudger pour tirer le connecteur du câble du haut-parleur gauche vers le haut et hors de sa prise sur la carte E/S.

    • Faites levier en dessous des fils.

    Steps 12 through 16 are not really necessary; you can easily de-route the necessary cables without removing the I/O board. Likewise with reassembly.

    maccentric - Réponse

  13. Utilisez la pointe d'un spudger pour retourner délicatement le clapet de retenue de la prise ZIF de la nappe du microphone. Assurez-vous de faire levier sur le clapet de retenue et non sur la prise même.
    • Utilisez la pointe d'un spudger pour retourner délicatement le clapet de retenue de la prise ZIF de la nappe du microphone.

    • Assurez-vous de faire levier sur le clapet de retenue et non sur la prise même.

    When following these steps in the reverse order to reassemble the machine, I found it much easier to insert the ribbon cable before inserting the I/O board into it's place and installing the screw (Step 14). This adds potential for any sudden movement to damage the ribbon cable, so gentle care must be exercised.

    Michael Kruger - Réponse

    Tried doing both ways when reassembling but the ribbon cable is so crimped that it won’t feed through the socket anymore. Not sure how to get it through else replace cable or run without a microphone.

    Reynold Gonsalves - Réponse

    I managed to get the little flap out when trying to push it back in. Now I can’t get the microphone to work…

    Edwin - Réponse

    I removed it And I can’t get it to stay connected now that I am putting it back together? How does it stick to the gold part???

    jelainec1 - Réponse

  14. Retirez la seule vis Torx T5 de 3,6 mm fixant la carte E/S au boîtier supérieur.
    • Retirez la seule vis Torx T5 de 3,6 mm fixant la carte E/S au boîtier supérieur.

    When following these steps in the reverse order to reassemble the machine, I found it much easier to insert the ribbon cable before inserting the I/O board into it's place and installing the screw (Step 14). This adds potential for any sudden movement to damage the ribbon cable, so gentle care must be exercised.

    Michael Kruger - Réponse

    I also noticed that the ribbon cable has a “tab” of extra ribbon above it that was hard to see in the pictures.

    Rhiannon Orizaga - Réponse

  15. Retirez délicatement le câble de la caméra de son entaille sur la carte E/S et poussez-la de côté avec la pointe d'un spudger. Retirez délicatement le câble de la caméra de son entaille sur la carte E/S et poussez-la de côté avec la pointe d'un spudger.
    • Retirez délicatement le câble de la caméra de son entaille sur la carte E/S et poussez-la de côté avec la pointe d'un spudger.

  16. Soulevez la carte E/S du côté de la carte mère et retirez-la du boîtier supérieur.
    • Soulevez la carte E/S du côté de la carte mère et retirez-la du boîtier supérieur.

    • Le retrait de la carte E/S déconnecte également la nappe du microphone. Veillez à ne pas la déchirer.

    I didn't actually need to remove the IO board, it's enough to remove the screw to let it loose. Therefore also step 12 and 13 are useless.

    Emilio - Réponse

    THANK YOU. Was able to push the camera cable under the io board without removing it.

    samdaman91 -

    OAT YEAH! Followed this guide to replace my Macbook Air 2014 I/O board step-by-step (thx Jeff Suovanen and contributors) with no probs…workie workie now! FYI it had stopped charging…I tried a new charger, new battery, and finally this I/O board…

    Just take your time and make sure you have the torx screw + adapter bits and spudger as they do not come with the I/O board (I had them leftover from a previous iFixit battery swap).

    Kent O - Réponse

Conclusion

Pour réassembler votre appareil, suivez ces instructions dans l'ordre inverse.

43 autre(s) ont terminé cette réparation.

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How can I tell if its my I/O board that is damaged? I cannot hear sound from Aux port or from the speakers on my macbook. Laptop still charges fine though.

Ralphy Sierra - Réponse

Check to see if your USB port on that side works. That was how I know mine was bad.

craig - Réponse

Was easier than I thought to do.

craig - Réponse

If light on magsafe doesn't turn on, is it safe to say the io board needs to be replaced?

Jon Lewin - Réponse

Thumbs up Walter!

jlaramore - Réponse

Worked perfectly for me. In my case the audio device wasn’t able to be found so no sound unless I used a usb or bluetooth speaker. I found that one step here wasn’t necessary was to remove the fan - just swivel it out of the way and so you don’t have to unplug it. Otherwise a very good explanation made it easy for me to fix my 2013 MacAir having no sound.

Josh Marshall - Réponse

Thank you! Very easy directions, and Macbook Air is now charging. One question; after replacing the I/O board, although the magsafe charger is working, the light comes on, etc., the AC charger is no longer recognized in the system report. It says that no AC adapter is connected, and that it’s not charging even though it is. Any ideas, or I just don’t need to worry about it?

Willa Deane Mikel - Réponse

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