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Introduction

Utilisez ce tutoriel pour remplacer la carte E/S contenant un port USB 3.0, un port HDMI et un lecteur de carte SDXC.

Il n'est pas strictement nécessaire d'enlever le SSD afin de remplacer la carte E/S, mais cela offre plus de visibilité et facilite donc le processus. Si vous vous sentez à l'aise pour remplacer la carte E/S sans retirer le SSD, n'hésitez pas à ignorer les étapes concernant le SSD.

  1. Retirez les vis pentalobe P5 suivantes par lesquelles est fixé le boîtier inférieur du MacBook Pro :
    • Retirez les vis pentalobe P5 suivantes par lesquelles est fixé le boîtier inférieur du MacBook Pro :

    • Huit 3,1 mm

    • Deux de 2,3 mm

    The number of screws listed here is wrong on my model. I had four of the smaller size.

    anonymous 1286 - Réponse

    Just to add to my comment above (I can't edit it because it's anonymous), my MacBook Pro is a mid-2015 15in model 2.8GHz (A1398; EMC2881). For the bottom case it uses six 3.1mm screws, and four 2.3mm screws at the clutch/hinge side of the MacBook Pro. I tried using a 3.1mm screw at the clutch/hinge end, as described in the main article, and they don't fit. It has to be four 2.3mm screws.

    anonymous 1286 - Réponse

    The instructions below have you basically taking ALL of the guts out of case. I’ve been doing my own apple repairs since before ifixit was a thing and this one is a handful. My battery was swelling and I wanted to remove it before it burst or bent the case so I took it out without having a replacement and it occurs to me that aside from using the solvent (liquid) to remove the adhesive, you could probably do this only taking the trackpad ribbon out. I have mine reassembled now and will research the best battery to buy but I think installation will take about 5 minutes. See if you can slip a plastic gift card under the battery and wag/saw the adhesive out without the solvent before you go through all of this. It might work. Note, don’t bend or put too much stress on the battery and certainly don’t puncture it…

    br1ansk - Réponse

    Battery Recall for 15-inch MacBook Pro Retina mid-2015. Check Apple’s site for recalls, and put in your serial number. They replaced my swelling battery for free, regardless of warranty.

    Steve -

    I’m having a problem trying to get the screws off. I have a set of pentalobe screwdriver set. I found one screwdriver that fits perfectly on one set of screws, but I am unable to unscrew it. I tried using some force pushing the screwdriver into the screw, but nothing happens. Any suggestions?

    henry_k_wong - Réponse

    All the screws on mine are the same length for some reason.

    ccfman2004 - Réponse

    I would recommend the first step is: Run the battery down to ZERO before doing any next step. This reduces risk to you, people nearby, to the MBP and greatly reduces the risk of fire. Step 2 should be: Double-check that the battery is at zero.

    I like others listed below and on YouTube, disagree with these full tear down 70+ steps being the only focus. I get that I have to be careful not to get the acetone solvent near the speakers. I skipped 25+ steps by: tilting the MBP away from the speakers and using very little acetone solvent. More pressure with the plastic cards and only a few drops of solvent. While giving the full set of instructions is fine it should be very clear that you can (at the user’s own risk) do this.

    Kenneth Schleede - Réponse

    As above—I consider full disassembly to be far riskier to fragile cables and connectors than the risk for solvent spillage. I did steps 1-5 and 46-74. No issues. I HIGHLY recommend the iFixit magnetic Project Mat. It’s a white marker board surface gridded into squares and invaluable for labeling part sizes/steps in disassembly.

    philtrit - Réponse

    As above too. I benefitted from the advice. From step 51 onwards, I found a easier way using tip from China battery seller. Use a 2” width plastic scraper/plastic paint scraper to poke under the battery. Use moderate strength to poke and avoid rough handling of the battery so as not to puncture it. There is no need to pry the battery to avoid stressing it, just use a firm poking action under the battery and the double sided tape adhesive will yield. After 5 min of such poking, the entire battery pack can be removed without the hassle of pouring the adhesive remover from step 51 onwards. Get a scraper with a stronger handle so that it is more comfortable to poke.

    https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32889670...

    Emma Pn - Réponse

    Heads up as you go…we (husband/wife team) had a notebook that when screws/covers were removed, we marked the step # and actually taped the screws into the notebook noted by the step number. This was very helpful on reassembly and we knew we would be using the exact screw into the original screw hole.

    Ann Brainard - Réponse

    After replacing the batteries myself, I wouldn’t even consider doing it again. Not that it’s difficult to do—that’s not the issue. The issue is aftermarket batteries. I’ve been using notebooks for well over 30 years, and never had satisfaction with aftermarket batteries.

    Modern lithium batteries are an amazing technological feat, but a dangerous one. So even putting aside that I’ve never found any aftermarket batteries with quality anywhere near original, I learned “cheap” aftermarket lithium batteries are downright dangerous.

    After doing research into what’s involved with manufacturing lithium batteries, I know there are so many corners to cut, you’ll end up with junk regardless of what you pay.

    A week after replacing my batteries with those from iFixit, they showed clear signs of failure. Thank goodness iFixit refunded my money.

    After having Apple replace my batteries, everything is back to like-new. For my $199, I got not only excellent batteries, but a new keyboard and trackpad as well. That’s it’s done!!!

    AnnoniMoose - Réponse

  2. En tirant du bord, soulevez le boîtier inférieur du MacBook Pro. En tirant du bord, soulevez le boîtier inférieur du MacBook Pro.
    • En tirant du bord, soulevez le boîtier inférieur du MacBook Pro.

    If you buy the entire kit, make sure you use the opening tool! I cut both of my index fingers trying to slide it off.

    Catherine Nath - Réponse

    Additionally, this is an “opportunity” to clean the cooling fans - and any other obvious dust magnets - with a can of compressed air. On the laptop I worked on, the cooling fans had sufficient dust to not “spin” freely - showing signs of “drag”. After blasting each cooling fan with compressed air (including from the exhaust vent side, as hitting the fins alone wasn’t adequate), they both spin freely now. No obvious signs of battery swelling on mine, but lack of adequate airflow could have been a factor with original battery aging/failure.

    J G - Réponse

  3. Le boîtier inférieur a deux chevilles en plastique (rouge) qui s'adaptent aux clips en plastique en haut de la batterie (orange). Lors du remontage, appuyer doucement sur le centre de panneau pour remettre le boîtier sur ses deux clips en plastique. Lors du remontage, appuyer doucement sur le centre de panneau pour remettre le boîtier sur ses deux clips en plastique.
    • Le boîtier inférieur a deux chevilles en plastique (rouge) qui s'adaptent aux clips en plastique en haut de la batterie (orange).

    • Lors du remontage, appuyer doucement sur le centre de panneau pour remettre le boîtier sur ses deux clips en plastique.

    pretty hard to put it back, so I just remove the clips on the upper case....

    jamiegan835 - Réponse

    The trick to putting it back on is to guide your fingers to the same level as the clips, and then when you put the case down move your hand from the left side of the case to the right side of the case; applying pressure when you reach the area where the clips are.

    Aaron Freidus - Réponse

    Impossible to put those peds into the upper case clips! It just does not hold there, it fits but just does the ‘click’ sound and goes back. Is it possible to buy those clips as spare part? Thank you for help.

    Lopez Loku - Réponse

    Same for me. It just never clips, regardless of the precision and the amount of force I apply.

    Vadym Borodin - Réponse

    I also think I stripped the screws holding the clips in place. Does anyone know what screw characteristics should I look for as a replacement?

    Vadym Borodin - Réponse

  4. Retirez l'étiquette qui couvre le connecteur de la batterie.
    • Retirez l'étiquette qui couvre le connecteur de la batterie.

    You only need to remove the tape to the edge of the flap. This is enough to be able to pry the battery connector up.

    Aaron Freidus - Réponse

    +1 to above comment

    Andrew Saunders - Réponse

    Note that the photo is taken from the hinge side - the other way to the photo in step 3

    Toby Thurston - Réponse

    I chanced it, didnt disconnect the battery and all is well even after giving the insides a good vacuuming before changing the SSD.

    Dermot O Logical - Réponse

    It is just the top layer of tape that you want to lift, you need to seperate it from the bottom layer.

    Kelv - Réponse

    You don’t actually need to remove the tape or even peel it off at all. Just pull up the battery connector up with the tape still attached.

    AJ Lorenzo - Réponse

    pay attention that the macbook in this picture is presented the “wrong side”: if you accidentally remove the tape covering the trackpad cable and thereby also take the trackpad cable out of the zif-socket, your keyboard and trackpad won’t work anymore. putting the trackpad cable back into the (tiny) socket will fix the issue though.

    sam - Réponse

  5. Soulevez délicatement chaque côté du connecteur de la batterie pour le décoller de sa prise sur la carte mère. Pliez le connecteur vers l'arrière en direction de la batterie, en vous assurant que le connecteur de la batterie ne fasse pas accidentellement contact avec la carte mère. Pliez le connecteur vers l'arrière en direction de la batterie, en vous assurant que le connecteur de la batterie ne fasse pas accidentellement contact avec la carte mère.
    • Soulevez délicatement chaque côté du connecteur de la batterie pour le décoller de sa prise sur la carte mère.

    • Pliez le connecteur vers l'arrière en direction de la batterie, en vous assurant que le connecteur de la batterie ne fasse pas accidentellement contact avec la carte mère.

    why is this necessary to remove a hard drive?

    Lawtay - Réponse

    @lawrencetaylor On any electronics repair, you need to disconnect all sources of power before you start. It’s a basic safety precaution and also removes the risk of accidentally shorting a connection somewhere (which can potentially kill your MacBook).

    Jeff Suovanen -

    I chanced it, didnt disconnect the battery and all is well even after giving the insides a good vacuuming before changing the SSD.

    Dermot O Logical - Réponse

    Picture doesn’t match the computer. Hard to tell which connector to disconnect

    James Mitchell - Réponse

    Hi James, are you sure you have the correct guide for your machine? Try using our MacBook Identification tool.

    Sam Goldheart -

    Habe den Akkustecker beim putzen abgemacht um keinen Stromschlag zu kriegen, jetzt wieder eingebaut. Nun habe ich folgendes Problem: Akku wird geladen, aber steigt niemals ueber % und manchmal geht er trotz Anschluss an das Stromnetz einfach aus. Hat da jemand eine Idee?

    paul - Réponse

    I used the identification tool and can confirm what James is seeing. The picture doesn’t match for this step. There is no piece with visible holes punched in it.

    Joshua McFarland - Réponse

    There is an extra piece of plastic on the connector, you might want to peel that off too. It’s not in the pictures.

    Ellie B -

    There is a battery cover with two T5 screws that must be removed before prying on the connector.

    Dennis Newton - Réponse

    Hi Dennis,

    Thanks for bringing this up! I’ll work on verifying this and adjust the guide as needed.

    Arthur Shi -

    My battery connector had another layer of plastic on it that I removed first

    Kelv - Réponse

    For an A1398, the screws on the adjacent cover were T6, not T5; one of the tips in the battery kit was suitable.

    J G - Réponse

    I need dis board hw much

    Ebuka Ofodile - Réponse

    After separating the battery connector, I took the addd precaution of placing a folded post-it between the connector bank and the socket.

    Matt Fisher - Réponse

  6. Utilisez une spatule (spudger) ou une pincette pour faire levier sur les trois câbles d'antenne Airport de manière à les déconnecter de la carte Airport. Repliez un peu les câbles hors de votre champ de travail. Les encoches de connexion sont très fragiles. Faites attention de ne faire levier que les connecteurs et non sur la prise ou le câble. Pour les rebrancher, alignez soigneusement le connecteur au-dessus de la prise. Appuyez fermement dessus avec le bout plat de votre spatule.
    • Utilisez une spatule (spudger) ou une pincette pour faire levier sur les trois câbles d'antenne Airport de manière à les déconnecter de la carte Airport. Repliez un peu les câbles hors de votre champ de travail.

    • Les encoches de connexion sont très fragiles. Faites attention de ne faire levier que les connecteurs et non sur la prise ou le câble.

    • Pour les rebrancher, alignez soigneusement le connecteur au-dessus de la prise. Appuyez fermement dessus avec le bout plat de votre spatule.

    I seriously hate this step - it is pretty much the only difficult part of the job. Reconnecting these microscopic stinkin connectors is a monumental PITA…

    T Rowe - Réponse

    Guys, be very carefull with these 3 cables.. If you are not going to replace the whole display, just be careful as much as possible.

    Adi - Réponse

    When reconnecting these tiny wires, use one hand to guide and align the connector by holding the wire and the other hand to press them down with a flat end of a spudger. Spent 10 minutes figuring it out and connecting the first one, then only a few seconds on both of the remaining connectors :)

    If you try to do this with one hand, it’s extremely easy to move them out of the alignment while pressing them down.

    Aivar Kavshevich - Réponse

    I think there is a better way - where you disconnect the wifi card using the black screw in middle of wire 2 and 3 first and then untie these connectors. I pryed away the connectors but the sockets on the card were all damaged during the process. Ended up having to get a replacement card before reassembly could be completed. So again there are 2 components - connectors which are being pryed away and really fine and delicate socket. Very easy to damage them. Better to take the card off and delicately peel these connectors off. I would not recommend using these pry sticks mentioned here for that.

    Abhishek Kathuria - Réponse

    ATTENTION ! Cette étape est grandement sous-estimée, aucune mention de la délicatesse de l’opération contrairement à d’autres étapes bien plus facile… De plus, il semble possible de sauter cette étape en déconnectant seulement la carte comme expliquer sur la version anglophone du guide !!! J’ai endommagé le connecteur le plus proche du ventilateur, pour rien… Heureusement, tout semble fonctionner correctement…

    Antochny - Réponse

    AirPort/Camera Cables? not AirPort/Bluetooth Cables?

    Marco Cappelli - Réponse

    Je confirme qu’il est plus simple de déconnecter la carte (enlever la vis, et tirer délicatement sur la carte) que d’enlever les trois cables / I confirm that it’s a lot easier to disconnect the Airport card (just remove the screw and pull gently) than removing those 3 wires.

    Maen J - Réponse

    Agreed with Abhishek - removing the wifi card first makes this much easier.

    Tammer Saleh - Réponse

    How do you know which is which when reassembling?

    Bryan Province - Réponse

    I highly suggest against disconnecting these wires. It's very likely that you will damage either sockets or wires. Do as others recommend, just remove the network card. Prying tool is not good for this step. I broke 1 out of 3 sockets. I wish I read all the comments before operating. Now I gotta get another card :(

    Adomas Aleknavičius - Réponse

    what size driver does this require? My pentalobe doesnt seem to be the right size.

    jack32878 -

    As many have mentioned, don’t disconnect the wires is reallly a pain in the a… to connect them, it wont be easy and will take a lot of patience….. Better disconnect the card and carefully leave the wires connected.

    ilukewitschalejandro - Réponse

    Just finished replacing both speakers using this guide. VERY good. I did not remove the individual wires - just removed the card with wires attached. Seemed to be the safer, easier way to go.

    Dwight Vaughn - Réponse

    How? can you explain the procedure?

    Cosimo Soderi -

    I’m attempting taking the card out but leaving the wires attached as mentioned. A Torx T5 worked for me on that screw. I then very slightly lifted up the end of the card where the wires are attached and pulled it straight out of the slot on the opposite side.

    Sean Gabel -

    Just finished replacing my display LVDS Cable with this guide and another one; awesome. I as well just removed the card and left the wires attached. Much easier.

    Alex DeLeon - Réponse

    This is one of those skills that you get experience right after you need it.

    I learned these connectors doing RF work. They require a deft touch. Put slight downward pressure while you work to align the pair. Once you get the hang of it, you will know when they are aligned, and they will go back together with a light push and make a slight snap.

    If they don’t immediately pop together with a light push, they’re not aligned quite right. Don’t force them, they have a very limited number of make/break cycles.

    The cables should retain their bent shape well enough to show where each goes. One it too short to go too far off, and one is too long to fit to the nearest connection.

    prreitz - Réponse

    I did not bother with the danger of removing cables or cards or logic board. I spent 30 mins removing my battery carefully, using string and CT1 multisolve which isn’t dangerous to plastic.

    i slid my string under the battery and see-saw underneath and sprayed Ct1 Multisolve underneath. I’ve now done both my macbooks. Didn’t destroy any cables or risk it. I put a few paper sheets over my logic board to cover any spray back. Simple see-saw and a palstic card, the blue spludger and the black long spluger.

    T Master. - Réponse

    Yes, I did the full board disassembly on my 2012 macbook last year and once I finished I kind of wondered why I didn’t just work on removing the battery. Is there any real obstacle to doing so here? Can I just spend an hour or so carefully removing the battery? What’s the risk of doing that? again, is there any actual obstacle to removing the battery without pulling out the whole board assembly?

    Brian Lamb -

    You can go straight for the battery if you’re confident enough to improvise a little. Removing the board makes sense if you’re trying to protect the speakers from getting chewed up by the solvent. Otherwise, it’s faster and easier to leave the board in place.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    Agreed. Just replaced the battery on my 15” MacBook Pro 2015 and I skipped all instruction between step 6 and 46. I just unplugged the battery and removed the trackpad connection. Used some dental floss to cut through the adhesives and a card to help with carefully prying the batteries up. After the battery was removed I used some isopropanol to clean up from the old glue. Installed new battery, attached the trackpad connection ribbon and connected battery. All in all it took me less than one hour. I would not recommend removing the whole logic board just to replace the battery.

    Mackie72 -

    I’m one of those unfortunate ones that simply followed the iFixit instructions before reading the comments. On successfully reconnecting 2 of the cables and (miserably) failing with the 3rd, I realized the relevance of the comments. I decided to take a gamble and leave the 3rd connector unconnected and fired up my MacBook … strangely enough, everything works fine i.e from the comments, WiFi, Bluetooth, Camera (et al) should be affected but they are all still fully operational (maybe they’ll die with time - I hope not). I don’t like the thought of an unattached cable lying around in my Mac hence I agree with those advocating for alternatives to this step (unhinging the WiFi card as opposed to prying these cables).

    Otim Samuel - Réponse

    Diese drei winzigen Stecker wieder aufzusetzen war tatsächlich die größte Herausforderung der ganzen Reparatur! Wichtig ist dabei darauf zu achten, diese waagerecht und passgenau aufzusetzen. Ich habe dazu die Lupe meiner Lötvorrichtung genutzt und zum aufdrücken die flache Seite des Spudgers.

    Werner Hampl - Réponse

    These antenna connectors are the worst to reconnect. Depending on the model and what repair you are doing, you may not be able to avoid disconnecting them.

    ccfman2004 - Réponse

    We took the advice of leaving the wires attached to the card, and unhinging the wifi the card cable. Worked great for us.

    Ann Brainard - Réponse

    Ditto on just removing the card and leaving the antenna connected. Worked fabulously.

    Matt Fisher - Réponse

    If you do need to get the cables back on the the card, I have found good results using the tip of a T5 driver to gently push them down (of course while aligning carefully with other finger). It gives a firm, flat & precise surface to press with + we know you have a T5 around!

    Tech Medic - Réponse

  7. Décollez le cache droit en caoutchouc du ventilateur et repliez-le hors de votre champ de travail. Décollez le cache droit en caoutchouc du ventilateur et repliez-le hors de votre champ de travail.
    • Décollez le cache droit en caoutchouc du ventilateur et repliez-le hors de votre champ de travail.

  8. Utilisez la pointe d'un spudger pour pousser le connecteur du câble de la caméra hors de sa prise sur la carte mère. Assurez-vous de pousser parallèlement à la carte mère, en appuyant d'abord sur un côté, puis l'autre pour "guider" le connecteur hors de sa prise.
    • Utilisez la pointe d'un spudger pour pousser le connecteur du câble de la caméra hors de sa prise sur la carte mère.

    • Assurez-vous de pousser parallèlement à la carte mère, en appuyant d'abord sur un côté, puis l'autre pour "guider" le connecteur hors de sa prise.

    This connector is very fragile, the left edge of mine cracked off and ended up in the socket. And during figuring that out the cable or the socket appears to have got damaged because “no camera detected”.

    malhal - Réponse

    Yeah, same here.. Not sure what to do now

    Roman Kroupoderov -

    Have you found a solution to this problem ? I have the same issue

    Tim Rault -

    All connectors are incredibly fragile. I damaged the fan connector locking latch just by trying to lock it back in place. Fortunately the cable, by the way it inserts, it’s being pushed in rather than pulled on, however, I do have concerns with it not making a proper connection. Malcolm, I am wondering how you fixed your damaged connector?

    Robert Habib - Réponse

    The connector slides into the socket so using the flat end of the Splunger under the cable and gently lifting draws the connector apart.

    Dennis Newton - Réponse

    Don’t use the flat edge of the spudger. Instead, use the pointed end to gently slide off by the dog ears of the plug. If you look closely you’ll see a notch on each side.

    John Xeno -

  9. Utilisez vos doigts pour retirer les câbles AirPort/caméra du ventilateur. Les câbles sont collés au ventilateur, veillez à les décoller soigneusement afin d'éviter de les endommager. Dégagez soigneusement les câbles du dispositif de retenue en plastique.
    • Utilisez vos doigts pour retirer les câbles AirPort/caméra du ventilateur.

    • Les câbles sont collés au ventilateur, veillez à les décoller soigneusement afin d'éviter de les endommager.

    • Dégagez soigneusement les câbles du dispositif de retenue en plastique.

    • Lors du remontage, il devrait y avoir suffisamment d'adhésif sur ces câbles pour les recoller au ventilateur.

    Leave them attached. Remove the single screw holding the board in place and gently wiggle the airport card out (see Airport card removal instructions). Fold the card up and towards the rear of the computer. Now follow the instructions for the camera cable removal. Lift the airport card with the three leads attached and the camera cable up and fold the, to the outside of the case.

    George R. O'Connor - Réponse

    This video shows how to do it safely: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AabLlHT5...

    Undo the 3 cables gently. remove the airport card. gently pry away the cables fro the fan plastic. then the camera cable will slide out easily.

    T Master. - Réponse

    I was afraid to just pull on any cables adhered, so I used a spudger edge to very gently “scrape” them up instead.

    Matt Fisher - Réponse

    It was much easier following the instructions on the YouTube video, thanks! Looks like the process starts around 4:11.

    Darnell Remy - Réponse

  10. Retirez les quatre vis Torx T5 de 2,2 mm fixant les caches du connecteur de la nappe de la carte E/S.
    • Retirez les quatre vis Torx T5 de 2,2 mm fixant les caches du connecteur de la nappe de la carte E/S.

    why is this needed for upper assembly replacement?

    Andrew Chu - Réponse

    My cable connector covers are not screwed down. Mid 2015 15” MBP. That’s the computer in the title of this article so idk.

    Andrew Sauk - Réponse

    I’m having trouble breaking the 2.2 mm screws loose and I don’t want to strip the head. I’m using the T5 screwdriver. Does anyone know any tricks or suggestions?

    Madeline Young - Réponse

    Ok, so the correct size Torx is the T4, not T5

    Madeline Young -

    Is this really necessary just to replace the LEFT speaker?

    Troy Havard - Réponse

  11. Retirez le cache du connecteur gauche. Utilisez l'extrémité plate d'un spudger pour tirer l'extrémité gauche de la nappe de la carte E/S hors de sa prise sur la carte mère.
    • Retirez le cache du connecteur gauche.

    • Utilisez l'extrémité plate d'un spudger pour tirer l'extrémité gauche de la nappe de la carte E/S hors de sa prise sur la carte mère.

  12. Retirez le cache du connecteur droit. Utilisez l'extrémité plate d'un spudger pour tirer l'extrémité droite de la nappe de la carte E/S hors de sa prise sur la carte mère.
    • Retirez le cache du connecteur droit.

    • Utilisez l'extrémité plate d'un spudger pour tirer l'extrémité droite de la nappe de la carte E/S hors de sa prise sur la carte mère.

    When re-assembling, the right connector cover is the smaller of the two.

    richardgraham_2000 - Réponse

  13. Décollez le haut de la nappe de la carte E/S de l'adhésif la fixant au ventilateur.
    • Décollez le haut de la nappe de la carte E/S de l'adhésif la fixant au ventilateur.

    • Retirez la nappe.

    Cable need not be removed.

    mayer - Réponse

  14. Utilisez un tournevis Torx T5 pour retirer les trois vis fixant le ventilateur droit sur la carte mère :
    • Utilisez un tournevis Torx T5 pour retirer les trois vis fixant le ventilateur droit sur la carte mère :

    • Une de 5,0 mm avec un épaulement de 2,0 mm de long

    • Une de 4,0 mm à large tête

    • Une de 4,4 mm

  15. Utilisez la pointe d'un spudger pour faire basculer le clapet de retenue sur le connecteur ZIF de la nappe du ventilateur droit. Assurez-vous de faire levier sur le clapet de retenue à charnière et non sur la prise même.
    • Utilisez la pointe d'un spudger pour faire basculer le clapet de retenue sur le connecteur ZIF de la nappe du ventilateur droit.

    • Assurez-vous de faire levier sur le clapet de retenue à charnière et non sur la prise même.

    A note about these ZIF sockets - the retaining flap is just held in place by the small amount of friction, and on reassembly they can separate. I learned to push them down with my finger when possible, or else with a flat end, carefully walking them down side by side to keep it as even as possible. If the flap separates all is not lost ! It’s quite difficult (I did almost everything in this guide with tweezers under magnifiers) but if you remove the cable first, you can get the plastic “comb” back under the pins and up into it’s original position, then replace the cable and try again.

    Matt Fisher - Réponse

  16. Soulevez le ventilateur et poussez-le délicatement vers le bord arrière du MacBook pour sortir la nappe du ventilateur de sa prise. La nappe du ventilateur peut être collée à la carte mère – pour éviter de déchirer la nappe, décollez-la délicatement tout en soulevant le ventilateur.
    • Soulevez le ventilateur et poussez-le délicatement vers le bord arrière du MacBook pour sortir la nappe du ventilateur de sa prise.

    • La nappe du ventilateur peut être collée à la carte mère – pour éviter de déchirer la nappe, décollez-la délicatement tout en soulevant le ventilateur.

    • Retirez le ventilateur.

    I recommend pushing the cable connector away with a spudger instead of using the fan to pull it away…there seems to be too much stress put on the cable using the method proposed here.

    Bill Klemme - Réponse

    Using a spudger does help alleviate stress on the cable. I also used it to help get the cable up from being adhered to the logic board.

    Joshua McMillan - Réponse

    Adding to the other comments, the fan is very light and has no resistance lifting out of the place it sits in.

    I carefully lifted the fan just before there was any tension on the cable.

    With the fan held in my right hand and spudger in my left, I moved the spudger under the fan approaching from the left side.

    This allowed me to easily place the flat end of the spudger under the cable where the thicker plastic sits and gently pry the cable up until the cable broke away from the body.

    I then used the pointed part of the spudger to gently pry the connector part of the cable away from the socket while gently pulling the fan away until the cable was disconnected and the entire fan was free.

    David Carroll - Réponse

  17. Retirez la seule vis Torx T5 de 2,9 mm fixant le SSD à la carte mère.
    • Retirez la seule vis Torx T5 de 2,9 mm fixant le SSD à la carte mère.

  18. Soulevez suffisamment le bout du SSD pour faire passer le haut-parleur directement derrière. Ne soulevez pas trop le SSD, vous risqueriez d'endommager les contacts ou la prise. Tirez le SSD tout droit hors de sa prise sur la carte mère.
    • Soulevez suffisamment le bout du SSD pour faire passer le haut-parleur directement derrière.

    • Ne soulevez pas trop le SSD, vous risqueriez d'endommager les contacts ou la prise.

    • Tirez le SSD tout droit hors de sa prise sur la carte mère.

  19. Utilisez la pointe d'un spudger pour faire basculer le mécanisme de verrouillage du connecteur de carte E/S. Retournez le spudger et utilisez l'extrémité plate pour faire glisser la nappe E/S hors du connecteur. Appuyer sur le mécanisme de verrouillage ouvert est le moyen simple de faire glisser la nappe E/S hors du connecteur. Cela pourrait aider à éviter d'endommager accidentellement les contacts de la nappe ou du connecteur.
    • Utilisez la pointe d'un spudger pour faire basculer le mécanisme de verrouillage du connecteur de carte E/S.

    • Retournez le spudger et utilisez l'extrémité plate pour faire glisser la nappe E/S hors du connecteur.

    • Appuyer sur le mécanisme de verrouillage ouvert est le moyen simple de faire glisser la nappe E/S hors du connecteur. Cela pourrait aider à éviter d'endommager accidentellement les contacts de la nappe ou du connecteur.

    Oh, you rotated the computer while I wasn’t watching.

    prreitz - Réponse

  20. Retirez les deux vis Torx T5 de 3,1 mm de la carte E/S.
    • Retirez les deux vis Torx T5 de 3,1 mm de la carte E/S.

    Remove the screw holding the heat pipe, it blocks the I/O board from coming out

    Gert Cuykens - Réponse

    It's interesting that you had to remove the heat pipe screw. This didn't seem to be in the way for me. The I/O board came out quite easily without any issues.

    But… it could be different for others as it was for you. I just thought I'd share my experience.

    David Carroll -

    Thanks for the tip! I also had to remove that screw to get the board out.

    maccentric -

    Also make sure the I/O cable removed on previous step is out of the way before screwing this down

    Keith Kern - Réponse

  21. Soulevez légèrement le bord intérieur de la carte E/S et tirez-le vers le centre du MacBook, en l'éloignant du rebord du boîtier. Retirez la carte E/S.
    • Soulevez légèrement le bord intérieur de la carte E/S et tirez-le vers le centre du MacBook, en l'éloignant du rebord du boîtier.

    • Retirez la carte E/S.

Conclusion

Pour réassembler votre appareil, suivez ces instructions dans l'ordre inverse.

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Andrew Optimus Goldheart

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Be _VERY_ careful with the connector on the end of the I/O cable. Especially since it abuts to the speaker. It is easy to insert it diagonally but that could break the edge pins on the connector. Step 19 of this job (and the inverse) needs at least three hands.

Bryan Lunt - Réponse

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