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Droit à la réparation

Boutique

Introduction

Avec ce tutoriel, remplacez une carte de raccordement MagSafe cassée.

  1. Retirez les dix vis suivantes :
    • Retirez les dix vis suivantes :

    • Trois vis Phillips #00 14,4 mm

    • Trois vis Phillips #00 3,5 mm

    • Quatre vis à épaulement Phillips #00 3,5 mm

    • Quand vous replacerez les 2 petites vis, alignez les perpendiculairement à la légère courbe de la coque (elles ne se vissent pas droites).

    How much weight can I save by removing the optical drive?

    gunes314 - Réponse

    You can save a lot of weight if lets say your installing a solid state drive or putting in a second hard drive but if you know that you use the CD/DVD disc drive a lot then you might just want to leave the drive alone.

    Marshall WahlstromHelgren -

    Tip: Use one of those weekday pill holders to have a cheep way to store screws you remove and each day of the week can be for different sizes or parts. It has been handy to have (much less expensive than the magnetic mat.

    Robert Wacker - Réponse

    Hello, where can I buy the screws I need in case I lose one of them?

    taylornya - Réponse

    I have one stripped screw... How opening without drill it?! Any suggestions please?

    rodrigosady - Réponse

    I also stripped a couple screws. I wasn’t able to open it up without drilling. After drilling the heads and removing the cover it was easy to hacksaw the tip and unscrew with a standard driver.

    Michael Wilkens -

    My top tip - make sure you buy good quality Phillips screwdrivers and a magnetic holder. Cheap screwdrivers won’t get the screws undone safely. Without a magnetic holder you have no chance of getting the tiny crews in and out safely.

    jeremyyoung - Réponse

    A good Phillips 00 is your friend here. Also, when reinserting the screws, gently start anticlockwise and you wil feel a click at the start of the thread. This tells you you’re in the right place and less likely to cross-thread through force in the wrong place.

    Iain Boyd - Réponse

  2. Faites levier avec vos doigts au niveau de la fente pour sortir le boîtier inférieur de la coque du MacBook. Retirez le boîtier inférieur.
    • Faites levier avec vos doigts au niveau de la fente pour sortir le boîtier inférieur de la coque du MacBook.

    • Retirez le boîtier inférieur.

  3. À l'aide de l'extrémité d'une spatule (spudger), faites levier sur le connecteur de la batterie pour le débrancher de la prise sur la carte mère. Il convient d'appliquer l'effet de levier sur les deux côtés courts du connecteur. Faites attention aux coins des connecteurs, car ils se cassent facilement.
    • À l'aide de l'extrémité d'une spatule (spudger), faites levier sur le connecteur de la batterie pour le débrancher de la prise sur la carte mère.

    • Il convient d'appliquer l'effet de levier sur les deux côtés courts du connecteur. Faites attention aux coins des connecteurs, car ils se cassent facilement.

    Is this step of removing the battery connector required?

    manodh - Réponse

    yes - as with disassembly of any electronic component you have to remove any power source. You don't want to accidentally turn the Mac on

    khull -

    Prying the battery connector off does not take much force. I did exactly what the guide suggested (walked it off back and forth) with the spudger without any problems. Just be very gentle, much like with anything inside laptops, they are very fragile and need to be worked with carefully. A+ instructions, battery replacement was a success.

    aekinaka - Réponse

    Be patient on disconnecting this one. It worked for me step by step, little by little.

    Phil Wagner - Réponse

  4. Repliez légèrement le câble de la batterie vers l'arrière pour éviter qu'il ne se reconnecte accidentellement à la prise sur la carte mère pendant que vous travaillez.
    • Repliez légèrement le câble de la batterie vers l'arrière pour éviter qu'il ne se reconnecte accidentellement à la prise sur la carte mère pendant que vous travaillez.

    I put some tape between the connector and socket while working on the drive.

    Stephen Smith - Réponse

    That's a good tip

    Anrothan -

    Great tip, I did that too

    Ahmed Mahran -

    One other note: The screw heads fit flush with the curvature of the case -- which means that they aren't exactly horizontal. In other words, they aren't perpendicular to the table that the computer is resting on. Don't try to force them straight in vertically, because you'll risk cross-threading them. (nearly ruined one screw hole myself!)

    lelandjordon - Réponse

    On my MacBook Pro, the connector seems to be an integral part of the battery.

    Jerry South - Réponse

  5. Avec l'extrémité plate d'une spatule (spudger), faites délicatement levier sur le connecteur du ventilateur pour le débrancher de sa prise sur la carte mère. Il est utile de faire pivoter la spatule en dessous des câbles du ventilateur pour débrancher le connecteur. La prise et le connecteur du ventilateur sont montrés sur la deuxième et troisième photo. Veillez à ne pas détacher la prise en plastique du ventilateur lors du retrait du connecteur du ventilateur de sa prise. La configuration de la carte mère de votre appareil peut différer de celle de la deuxième photo mais la prise du ventilateur est la même.
    • Avec l'extrémité plate d'une spatule (spudger), faites délicatement levier sur le connecteur du ventilateur pour le débrancher de sa prise sur la carte mère.

    • Il est utile de faire pivoter la spatule en dessous des câbles du ventilateur pour débrancher le connecteur.

    • La prise et le connecteur du ventilateur sont montrés sur la deuxième et troisième photo. Veillez à ne pas détacher la prise en plastique du ventilateur lors du retrait du connecteur du ventilateur de sa prise. La configuration de la carte mère de votre appareil peut différer de celle de la deuxième photo mais la prise du ventilateur est la même.

    I successfully soldered the fan connector back on for a friend. I used a small soldering iron (maybe 6-10 watts) and ground the tip down to a very fine point. Also used a magnifying light and very fine rosin core solder. I took my time and lined everything up and was careful not to heat any other junction unnecessarily.

    Scott Stanley - Réponse

    Yup. Be careful on this one. I was trying to gently pry up and popped it off the socket. Computer working fine after replacing magsafe board, but no fan for cooling…

    Thomas Carr - Réponse

    This one is really delicate, as pointed out.  Be careful if using the pointed end of a spudger NOT to dig down and under ….there’s a layer of plastic-y insulation that can be torn.  I accidentally gored it with the pointy end of a spudger and it was slightly ripped.  Fortunately, I was able to press it down and there was no problem when the cable was reinserted.

    Carolyn Ryan - Réponse

    For less than $16 I ordered a new fan from amazon. Fans eventually start making noise. If they fail, your system could expire from heat. Consider simply replacing your fan since this model is now about five years old. Here’s link:

    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FWP...

    airshack - Réponse

    I used a guitar pick and gently wiggled underneath to lift it up and out of the socket. no damage! woo hoo! on to step 7!

    jcundy2 - Réponse

    I simply skipped this step and left fan wire connected to logic board. Just unscrew screws from Step 6, put fan on the logic board and remove whole stuff togheter.

    paczor - Réponse

    Thanks, I did that too,,

    a lot easier

    Ahmed Mahran -

  6. Dévissez les trois vis suivantes, fixant le ventilateur à la carte mère :
    • Dévissez les trois vis suivantes, fixant le ventilateur à la carte mère :

    • Une vis Torx T6 de 7,2 mm

    • Deux vis Torx T6 de 5,3 mm

    These are T5 screws

    dbell316 - Réponse

    I think so too, (maybe on a certain batch?) tried a T6 and its too big

    billytalentlovexo -

  7. Ôtez le ventilateur de son emplacement dans la carte mère en évitant que son câble ne reste accroché.
    • Ôtez le ventilateur de son emplacement dans la carte mère en évitant que son câble ne reste accroché.

  8. Avec la pointe d'une spatule, retirez la nappe haut-parleur droit/subwoofer placée sous le dispositif de retenue moulé dans le boîtier supérieur. Tirez la nappe haut-parleur droite/subwoofer  vers le haut pour débrancher le connecteur de sa prise sur la carte mère.
    • Avec la pointe d'une spatule, retirez la nappe haut-parleur droit/subwoofer placée sous le dispositif de retenue moulé dans le boîtier supérieur.

    • Tirez la nappe haut-parleur droite/subwoofer vers le haut pour débrancher le connecteur de sa prise sur la carte mère.

    Reminder: When replacing the cable the connector should be placed in from above. This fooled me and I damaged the seat a bit, but not enough to prevent proper connection.

    Lee Hughart - Réponse

    Excellent guide, I feel this bit could be clearer tho. As it is a socket like a fan connector.

    Mine had a foam pad on the top like the other lift-up connections and I’ve accidentally taken the socket off.

    So just to be aware if your mac has the foam pad on top of this connection.

    acupton86 - Réponse

  9. Déconnectez la nappe de la caméra de la carte mère.
    • Déconnectez la nappe de la caméra de la carte mère.

    • Tirez sur la nappe parallèlement à la surface de la carte mère. Si vous la tirez vers le haut, vous risquez d'endommager la carte mère ou la nappe elle-même.

    The camera cable head has bump at both sides. Just use two spudgers to pry it out.

    townbull - Réponse

    thank you great suggestion

    Soham Thacker -

    Here's where the mid-2009 13" MacBook Pro 5,5 makes its first major departure from this guide. No such connection exists. At least nowhere I could find on the motherboard.

    Larry Horton - Réponse

    IIRC the official service manual suggests putting the blunt or wide edge of a black-stick/spudger underneath the cable and then pressing down on said cable to provide better gripping force while pulling the cable out/away from the connector. It’s my tried-and-true method of choice.

    James - Réponse

    Anyone has a data of this cable becausei brkoe it and i have an other same connector ??

    Mail : mr.leminecrafteur@gmail.com

    VARE - Réponse

    Just broke this cable by pulling to hard. Definitely use a spudger to pry out the connector instead of pulling the cable.

    maxpoetter - Réponse

    Same, any suggestion about its replacement?

    giovanni.billet - Réponse

    Really grip those little bumps on the head with a pair of pliers and gently wiggle!

    moonsugar33 - Réponse

    In case you need replacement parts for the broken cable : http://www.powerbookmedic.com/MacBook-Pr...

    To find out how to replace the cable, you can have a look at this tutorial : https://fr.ifixit.com/Tutoriel/Remplacem...

    Guillaume Lamaison - Réponse

  10. Déconnectez les quatre nappes suivantes : Nappe AirPort/Bluetooth
    • Déconnectez les quatre nappes suivantes :

    • Nappe AirPort/Bluetooth

    • Nappe du lecteur optique

    • Nappe du disque dur

    • Nappe du pavé tactile

    • Faites levier sur les connecteurs à l'aide de l'extrémité plate d'une spatule pour les déconnecter de leur prise sur la carte mère .

    On the mid-2009 13" MacBook Pro 5,5 the Airport/Bluetooth cable is different from the other three cables in this step. It's fabric wrapped, and its connection works in a fashion more like the display data cable connection, although it does not have a lock that releases by pulling a tab back over the cable. So, to those of you who are repairing this model, be careful. Prying upward is not the way to remove this cable. I played with it until I could detect which parts were moving which way and why. Although I can't say with precision how the connection works, I removed it by gently coaxing slightly up at an angle and back along the plane of the optical drive. The idea is to pull the cable back out of its socket while lifting slightly.

    Too bad we can't post photos in the comments.

    Larry Horton - Réponse

    Same with the Mid 2010 model - moving the cable parallel to the board, towards the optical device works fine.

    Hans - Réponse

  11. Avec votre ongle, ouvrez le clapet de retenue de la prise ZIF de la nappe du clavier. Assurez-vous de faire levier sur le clapet de retenue rabattu et non pas sur la prise elle-même. Avec la pointe d'une spatule, retirez la nappe du clavier de sa prise.
    • Avec votre ongle, ouvrez le clapet de retenue de la prise ZIF de la nappe du clavier.

    • Assurez-vous de faire levier sur le clapet de retenue rabattu et non pas sur la prise elle-même.

    • Avec la pointe d'une spatule, retirez la nappe du clavier de sa prise.

    Hello i've a late 2011 and have manged to break the keyboard ribbon cable ZIF socket. Is this a part that can be replaced? Ribbon is still good just the plastic has broken on the edge. Thanks

    Derek Cowan - Réponse

    No, You'll need to replace the logic board. I'd probably just use a wired or bluetooth keyboard and put the money towards a new machine.

    maccentric -

    I ran into trouble reattaching the keyboard ribbon cable into the ZIF socket. I couldn't grasp it in a way that let me push it all the all back. A local repair guy told me his trick: use a piece of tape. Attach a piece of tape to the ribbon cable and make a tab so you can pull the cable into the socket. Use of a piece of tape that you can easily remove. Works like a charm.

    David - Réponse

    Buy that man a pint! I've been working on computers professionally for a decade and I've never thought of that trick. Brilliant!

    Gryyphyn -

    Amazing this saved me!

    Felipe Cordero -

    You've saved me countless hours of crying trying to simply push it in

    Tunipguy -

    Thanks! This saved me hours!

    Marc Steffen -

    Thank you so much. Very clever idea that works like a charm!

    Todd Walls -

    Thank you so much! After 15 minutes of frustration, it inserted in less than 5 seconds.

    Todd Walls -

    After I put it all back together, the keyboard didn’t work; I traced it to this cable not being plugged in all the way. I used the tape trick to coax it all the way in to seat well and it works like a charm.

    Ruedi Schubarth - Réponse

    Thanks for the tip about keyboard ribbon, saved me a major headache

    domhnallk - Réponse

    It’s worth pointing out that the lever to lift this is at the back of the connector and that you’re pulling it towards yourself - this then releases the plastic on top of the cable that’s holding it in place.

    Nick Watts - Réponse

    The tape tirck saved my bacon!! Thank YOU!

    Jonathan Davis - Réponse

  12. Si présent, décollez le petit morceau de bande adhésive noire recouvrant la prise de la nappe du rétro-élairage du clavier.
    • Si présent, décollez le petit morceau de bande adhésive noire recouvrant la prise de la nappe du rétro-élairage du clavier.

    The bottom of the small strip has excellent adhesive which will re-stick upon reassembly without any problems. I handled the sticky side and even stuck it to a plastic tray without any issues. Which is to say the sticky-ness does not seem to wear off.

    airshack - Réponse

    This is the most difficult ribbon cable to reinsert. As noted in the comments for the keyboard ribbon cable above I’d recommend also using a a small piece of tape to help reinsert.

    Bill Kirby - Réponse

    I used Blu-Tac on the end of my spudger to provide a gentle grip to get it to slide in.

    moonsugar33 - Réponse

  13. Avec la pointe d'une spatule ou votre ongle, ouvrez le clapet de retenue de la prise ZIF de la nappe du rétro-éclairage du clavier. Assurez-vous de faire levier sur le clapet de retenue rabattu et non pas sur la prise elle-même. Retirez la nappe du rétro-éclairage du clavier de sa prise.
    • Avec la pointe d'une spatule ou votre ongle, ouvrez le clapet de retenue de la prise ZIF de la nappe du rétro-éclairage du clavier.

    • Assurez-vous de faire levier sur le clapet de retenue rabattu et non pas sur la prise elle-même.

    • Retirez la nappe du rétro-éclairage du clavier de sa prise.

    The first time I reassembled the system I left this tiny ribbon connector under the logic board by accident. If your keyboard backlight no longer works after reassembly it’s because you forgot to reattach this small connector. Fortunately, I caught my mistake before securing the logic board screws. It’s an easy to miss item.

    airshack - Réponse

  14. Avec l'extrémité plate d'une spatule, faites levier sur le connecteur du voyant de la batterie/du capteur veille pour le débrancher de sa prise sur la carte mère.
    • Avec l'extrémité plate d'une spatule, faites levier sur le connecteur du voyant de la batterie/du capteur veille pour le débrancher de sa prise sur la carte mère.

    the sleep sensor/battery indicator were not included with my new case, i had to transfer them over from my old case. once the battery is out (step 22), you can see the three screws you need to remove in order to take it out. it’s also secured by adhesive. the button for the battery indicator will likely fall out (at least it did on mine) when you remove the board, so be careful not to lose it…my new case did come with the button for the battery indicator (even though it didn’t come with the board or cable), but i just re-used the old one.

    Matt - Réponse

  15. Saisissez la languette en plastique fixée au dispositif de verrouillage du câble de données de l'écran et pivotez-la vers le côté DC-In (prise d'alimentation) de l'ordinateur. Retirez le câble de données de l'écran tout droit hors de sa prise sur la carte mère. Ne soulevez pas le câble de données de l'écran, car sa prise est très fragile. Tirez sur le câble parallèlement à la surface de la carte mère.
    • Saisissez la languette en plastique fixée au dispositif de verrouillage du câble de données de l'écran et pivotez-la vers le côté DC-In (prise d'alimentation) de l'ordinateur.

    • Retirez le câble de données de l'écran tout droit hors de sa prise sur la carte mère.

    • Ne soulevez pas le câble de données de l'écran, car sa prise est très fragile. Tirez sur le câble parallèlement à la surface de la carte mère.

    Its quite delicate, pull gently and it will pop out with a slight clicking sound

    Leo Jose - Réponse

    On my mid-2009 13" MacBook Pro 5,5 the display data cable was square with the motherboard, rather than at an angle. I'm not experienced with working on computer connections, but if I were going to describe this procedure, it would be more like:

    "Grasp the plastic tab on the end of the display data cable connection, and pull it gently back over the cable, toward the DC-in board. The tab is connected to a flat rectangular 'ring' that locks the cable to its connection, and when you pull the tab, the rectangular lock will flip back over the cable, allowing the cable to be removed by pulling the same direction, parallel to the surface of the motherboard."

    Larry Horton - Réponse

    Exactly the same as on the Mid2010 Model - never pull up, always parallel to the board, using the spudger to keep the cable down might helpfull while pulling with fingers the cable towards DC-In at the right side.

    Hans -

    My display is not working after reassemble the mac.

    Any reason?

    Nitin Sonwal - Réponse

    I had the same problem, and it was solved by slightly unscrewing the 14.4 mm screw that sits nearest the ESC button (upper left hand side, if the computer is open as if you’re using it). All the way screwed in, and the display conks out (something must be getting pinched). Slightly loosened, and the display immediately came back!

    Shannon Maguire -

    I choose not to remove this, just laid the board over. Worked just fine.

    Justin Patterson - Réponse

    I second this. It’s quite easy to leave this connection in place. The board flips over nicely, and everything is still accessible.

    Steven Weeks -

    I used my phone to photograph the entire underside of the Macbook Pro before I started removing things. This photo helped augment the excellent photos here. Take a few close-ups of each section/item before disassembly to reference upon assembly.

    airshack - Réponse

    when reattaching the display cable, i used the spudger to tuck the spongy top flap underneath the cable lock, so that i could then get the cable lock down the entire way. i couldn’t get it under there (and get the lock closed) without it, the top part of the display cable blocked it.

    Matt - Réponse

    When replaced the logic board when reassembled lap top screens not working. Saw others similar issues plugged in my monitor it’s working great must have messed up any ideas how to fix?

    Wayne McCarthy - Réponse

    Hi Wayne, and Michael! I had the same problem, and it was solved by slightly unscrewing the 14.4 mm screw that sits nearest the ESC button (upper left hand side, if the computer is open as if you’re using it). All the way screwed in, and the display conks out (something must be getting pinched). Slightly loosened, and the display immediately came back! —Shannon

    Shannon Maguire -

  16. Retirez les neuf vis suivantes :
    • Retirez les neuf vis suivantes :

    • Cinq vis Torx T6 de 3,6 mm

    • Deux vis Torx T6 de 4,3 mm

    • Deux vis Torx T6 de 7,2 mm

    2 of the 7 listed 4mm screws attaching the logic board are actually 4.5 or 5 mm.... unfortunately. I didn't notice that until I was reassembling. so I don't know which positions they came from.

    starf1970 - Réponse

    I'm just noticing this too... I've put the longer screws as the two on the far left of the picture because they seemed to be the two holes I couldn't see the bottom to.

    ForumHermit -

    Just took one apart and paid attention this time. On this Mac, the screws colored orange should be red, and the 2 screws on the left side of the board should be orange (they’re a bit longer).

    maccentric -

    For keeping the screws straight I drew a simple diagram and placed them on it head down/threads up in their respective positions. Then all screws went back into their original positions without any guess work. Another suggestion I have during assembly is to start the screws without torquing them all the way down - leave them a little loose to allow some adjustment of the logic board for getting them all to line up with their holes, then torque them down. This technique also works for the screws on the bottom cover/lower case.

    Great guide! Saved me some dough, and now my MagSafe connector stays nice and cool.

    gregory mogle - Réponse

    for me the two on the farthest left were the 4.3mm screws. otherwise all went as described

    Levi Hoover - Réponse

    on something like this (like in iphones) i print the picture and place the screws on the picture. saves some problems and guessing.

    jeff chasalow - Réponse

  17. Retirez les deux vis suivantes : Une vis cruciforme de 8,6 mm
    • Retirez les deux vis suivantes :

    • Une vis cruciforme de 8,6 mm

    • Une vis cruciforme de 5,5 mm

    • Retirez le dispositif de retenue du câble de donnés de l'écran du boîtier supérieur.

    Definitely not necessary to remove this bracket. You can disconnect the mic from the logic board and not have to deal with this bracket.

    kc7gnm77 - Réponse

  18. Avec la pointe d'une spatule, décollez délicatement le microphone de la bande adhésive le fixant au boîtier supérieur.
    • Avec la pointe d'une spatule, décollez délicatement le microphone de la bande adhésive le fixant au boîtier supérieur.

    Careful with this one. The wires are very thin fragile and it’s glued down very well making it extremely hard to remove. Just go slow and be patient otherwise you’ll damage the wires.

    Rob Kruit - Réponse

    I finally got that mic out by gripping it between two spudgers like a pair of chopsticks and gently pulling it out at an angle. The rubber shroud on it makes the thing hard to grip, and when I finally pulled it free, part of the adhesive ring tore off and stayed stuck to the chassis. When reassembling the machine, I had to kind of squish it back into place. It doesn’t hold quite as well as it did before, but it seems fine.

    Thomas - Réponse

    I managed to get the board out without prying the microphone off by twisting the board out while the microphone is still connected.

    You can then disconnect the microphone cable, which is a similar style connector to the fan cable and remove the board completely

    Alex - Réponse

    Vraiment pénible cette déconnection, allez y gentiment et la colle partira.

    raph raph - Réponse

    when reseating the logic board, first install the DC board in position and loosely seat the screws. then try to align the logic board to the 3.6mm screw housing closest to the firewire/ thunderbolt port and align the board to the ports and gently drop it into position. watch out for the cables that can get snagged under the board while seating it.

    Avocet Peregrine - Réponse

  19. En faisant attention aux nombreux connecteurs près ses bords, soulevez la carte mère du côté le plus proche du lecteur optique.
    • En faisant attention aux nombreux connecteurs près ses bords, soulevez la carte mère du côté le plus proche du lecteur optique.

    • Sans la tordre, manipulez la carte mère pour l'enlever du boîtier supérieur, en veillant à ce que la connexion flexible avec la carte de raccordement (MagSafe /DC-In) ne reste pas accrochée dans le boîtier supérieur.

    • Ôtez la carte mère.

    I had the same issue. After wiggling the logic board back and forth and slowly applying more force, just up the threshold where I felt uncomfortable, it came out. The problem appeared to be caused by glue on the heatsink barcode sticking to the layer underneath.

    Shaun - Réponse

    I did all this, and worked! .but Im wondering, has anybody unscrewed what seems to be a mini heatsink (black 1 inch square housing) on the integrated GPU? Could I re apply paste on that?

    tony perry - Réponse

    I did make the change yesterday. inside it has a thermal pad, that appears to be 3mm or less. i try to clean on my best. I make a making a very tick pea size and added again. but i have no idea if it works or not. still having temps on 56c on idle. there is no much info on that. i use MX-4 from arctic. but i still, in my option, a little to for my use. if someone have more info on that part on the late 2011 i7 macbook pro 13inch please send the info.

    Carlos De Bernard -

    I did and applied Arctic Silver 5 underneath instead of the crap tape they put under there. This alone stopped the random freezing and rebooting problem I was having with this macbook pro. I recommend if you're already that deep into it, you might as well do it. I'm glad I did.

    ej257lgt -

    Need help. After I put everything back together, everything works fine but my macbook just wont charge. Any diagnosis on this? Anyone who can explain to me how the battery and the charging work in a Mac?

    justfinditjoshyip - Réponse

    If this happened to me, I would first suspect I hadn't completely connected the DC-in board cable. If I hadn't just replaced the battery, I would wonder if the battery was good. MagSafe power cable connect connections fail too, especially if they've been attached for a long time to a red hot DC-in board.

    If those failed, I'd head to the genius bar!

    Larry Horton -

    I had this problem. I accidentally cut the a cable from the DC-in board and I had to buy this component and replace it. You have to be very careful when mounting back the logic board in its position to not get a cable from the DC-in board cut by the screws.

    Enrique Cerrillo Cuenca -

    I broke the black backlight shield.... be careful when you feel the logic board and the film underneath it seem stickinig togethre.

    EUNAE JO - Réponse

    The fan exhaust grille was catching onto the speaker unit so I had to skip to step 28 to take it out. After taking out the airport card the speaker was able to move away from the fan grille and let me lift out the logic board.

    Antonio Cabrara (MrUnkownGuy) - Réponse

    Also be sure to lift up the logic board to a slight angle so it clears the optical drive then pull it out gently at that angle. Do not pull it ulwards.

    Antonio Cabrara (MrUnkownGuy) - Réponse

    The mainboard got stuck with the speaker and I can't lift it up. So I removed the first speaker screw (Wich is nearest to the mainboard) then I was able to remove the mainboard

    Mauricio Larrea - Réponse

  20. Tirez la nappe de la carte de raccordement MagSafe (DC-In) vers le dissipateur thermique pour la déconnecter de la carte mère.
    • Tirez la nappe de la carte de raccordement MagSafe (DC-In) vers le dissipateur thermique pour la déconnecter de la carte mère.

    • Ne tirez pas vers le haut. Vous risqueriez de détacher la prise de la carte mère.

    • Retirez la carte de raccordement MagSafe.

    My experience with the mid-2009 13" MacBook Pro 5,5 makes me suggest paying close attention to how the DC-in board's cabling is situated as you remove the motherboard from the computer, especially in relation to the microphone and the display data cable retainer. The replacement DC-in board I used had fabric wrapping around the individual cables to the motherboard. Consequently, there is more material to navigate between these parts on reassembly.

    I managed to make it work, but if I had paid more attention to exactly how the cable was routed before removing the original, reassembly might have been easier.

    Larry Horton - Réponse

    It took me a while  to work up the courage to take this project on….after I’d received  the part from eBay.  I was  concerned about finding a way to get my daughter’s photos and documents retrieved before taking it on.  My dilemma was that there didn’t seem to be a way to charge the battery, which  only had about 5% left.  I used a 276gb flash drive to transfer  the essential  stuff using the remaining battery life.  Then I took the project on.  For a while, I still couldn’t get the bright green or amber light to come on, but just left the laptop plugged in with the dimmest green light showing on the magsafe charger.  After a few days, the battery charged up (almost like a slow trickle charge).  I fiddled with resetting  few things, per several suggestions, to no avail.  Today, however, out of a clear blue sky, I plugged the charger into the magsafe port and it turned green, then amber for the first time, and started charging pretty fast.  It seems a bit finicky about how it rests in the socket. Go for it!

    Carolyn Ryan - Réponse

    Hi Carolyn, I am in the same boat as you. I have the parts, just waiting for the courage ! I have already replaced the battery and the trackpad without any issues. Just concerned about breaking anything in the disassembly process. Maybe Apple make these parts so delicate on purpose so that its not user friendly to easily replace without risk (otherwise everyone would be doing it themselves right - no fun or $ for Apple !).. Wish you were here to guide me through the process (knowing that you have already been there, done that ! so to speak !). Cheers Ron

    Ron - Réponse

Conclusion

Pour remonter votre appareil, suivez les mêmes instructions dans l'ordre inverse.

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14 commentaires

It's worth noting that the two ribbon cables held in place by ZIF connectors are a real pain to put back in - it's very hard to get any force pushing them back into the ZIF connector. It took two small tweezers and a bit of luck on the keyboard cable.

peter - Réponse

To get back the keyboard ribbon I put the piece of Anti-Static Kapton Tape to enter it.

Ivan Oliveras -

As stated the keyboard connector is a nightmare to get back in, how I finally did it is, I presented the cable to the socket and using a sticky label pressing down pulled the label towards the centre of the mainboard

The magsafe connector is not under the mainboard and it would be easy for apple to have designed it so that the socket was on the top not the underside of the mainboard

brian whittle - Réponse

I was using my Laptop (literally in my lap), with the charger connected when it felt very warm on my pant leg. Felt the bottom of the case by the Mag Safe connector and it was very hot, almost burnt my hand. Surprisingly hot. Wouldn't charge right after that, kept getting hot, intermittent charging. Looked at the contacts with a jewelers loupe; the gold contacts were burnt and blistered, plastic melted so it wouldn't make full contact with the AC charger. Charger contacts OK. Replaced DC in board, works like new, saved a bundle of cash. Laid all the screws out in related groups on table top. e.g. All 10 cover screws in a square. MoBo Screws in MoBo pattern, or, you could use a small metric/millimeter ruler to tell which screw goes where.

ovenwally - Réponse

This is a terrific guide. My project, a mid-2009 13" MacBook Pro 5,5, was a little different, and the biggest challenges I experienced were places where my computer's connections were different than the model illustrated. So I'll share how that computer differed for those who might come up against the same challenges. I'll add those notes and illustrations in the sections that apply.

I lucked out with the two keyboard ribbon cables. I simply nudged them into place with two different spudgers—one to pry gently upward from underneath, the other to redirect that force to press the cable directly into its slot. I was anticipating a struggle, but it was a nothing.

Thanks for the great work, Andrew Bookholt, and everyone else!

Larry Horton - Réponse

I used this guide to replace the magsfae DC jack on my Macbook Pro 13 A1278 Mid 2012 model. It matches to the letter.

face - Réponse

Excellent guide. Everything went as described and new magsafe works like a champ!

Levi Hoover - Réponse

Replaced in about an hour, I broke the fan conector so do it as is explained here.

My jack works and charge perfectly since the first boot

Erick Servin - Réponse

Same here i don’t know what is the problem now..

BENBACHIR YASSINE -

Worked well. My laptop would not charge unless I did the jiggle with the connector, eventually it stopped charging altogether, so had to do this.

Spent about 2 hours, but totally worth it. My battery indicator lights don't seem to work, but at least the Macbook charges properly.

Omkar Danke - Réponse

Extremely helpful! Thank you so much for sharing! Most likely saved me a bunch of money!

Justin Patterson - Réponse

Yess!! I made it thanks to this tutorial.

My reason to replace this MagSafe DC-in Board is that it wasn’t charging anymore. This happend when I had a short circuit on my MacSafe power adapter cable because it was broken.

Hertzberger - Réponse

It worked well. The strip connectors were a pain to remove/replace but it functions properly. It was disconcerting for a while as the fan ran at full speed for about 10 minutes after logging in the user account again.

magawk - Réponse

Súper happy!!! All good!!!! Got my replacement parts and tools and work like a charm. Perfect fit everything!!! Didn’t took me that long not even an hour and also cleaned a bit on the inside!!!! Thanks so much!!!! Love to see the insides of my computer!!!!

Cecilamor Ares - Réponse

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