Introduction
Impossible de recharger votre ordinateur ? Remplacez la carte de raccordement MagSafe (DC-In)
Ce dont vous avez besoin
-
-
Retirez les 10 vis suivantes par lesquelles est fixé le boîtier inférieur du MacBook Pro 13" Unibody :
-
Sept vis Phillips 3 mm.
-
Trois vis Phillips 13,5 mm.
-
-
-
Soulevez légèrement le boîtier inférieur et poussez-le vers l'arrière de l'ordinateur afin de désengager les pattes de fixation.
In the introduction you should link fixers to this excellent doc: https://www.ifixit.com/Misc/HD_Software_...
It is really critical, super easy, and free(!) to clone your existing drive onto the new one you will install. I ran into one error, but SuperDuper! support replied immediately on how to fix it...Thanks ifixit and SuperDuper! (I ponied up the $28 for the software anyway, I was so impressed!)
Long story short: I drank the AppleKoolAid back in 1984 and have always left the guts of my machines up to Apple - until recently when I needed to swap the SATAs from my original MacDaddy (2009 13" MBPro that I killed in 2018 - coffee + blackout = OOOOPS) into a pristine 2009 MBPro from a Goodwill in North Carolina through eBay. I need the files from iCal and MacMail that can't be opened in my newer machines.
Well . . . I ain't never done nuttin' like that, before!
Enter Luke Miani on YouTube. He raves about you guys! So, I watched everything I could, read your site, bought the right tools and at the ripe old age of 72, I sat down, this morning and did the work. Now my original MacDaddy lives in MacDaddy2.0.
Am I allowed to cry?
Seriously, I can't thank you enough for your bitchen site and killer tools. I wish I'd'a been turned on to this shizzle 30+ years ago.
IFIXIT - IDIGIT!
HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA.
That was a brilliant read.
Yes, I came across ifixit a few years ago. Totally helped me out on several occasions.
Glad your Mac repair journey worked out.
:)
Cary B -
-
-
-
À l'aide de l'extrémité plate d'un spudger, faites levier sur le connecteur de la batterie pour le débrancher de la prise sur la carte mère.
How do you get that battery connector back on? Do you just press it in back in place after you're done?
yes. I usually plug it in before I screw it down so I can lift the battery a bit and have enough slack to be able to go straight down on the connector, otherwise it comes in on a bit of an angle, which can't be good (though not necessarily bad).
This step almost finished me, and I did extensive damage to the battery plug. Fortunately, I later replaced the battery, and the replacement came with a new plug! :) Newbies need to know - 1. The battery plug is like a thin lip on a thicker lip, so you need to pry BETWEEN 2 thin lips to get it off, else you are trying to yank out the socket. 2. Mine was initially VERY tight, and trying to get it out broke the plastic on all sides of plug, even though I was as careful as possible. Luckily, this didn't hurt functionality and I later replaced the battery. AFTER disconnecting once, it was never so tight again,
-
-
-
Avec une spatule (spudger), soulevez le connecteur du ventilateur de son emplacement pour le débrancher de sa prise sur la carte mère.
I just soldered it back on. . . I tried to clean the pads with braid first, but it didn't do much so I don't think that's necessary. I first supper-glued it in place with the pins on the pads and then I put a tiny dab of solder on each pin/pad. Plugged in the fan and i works!
Just the answer I was looking for Ron! Awesome work buddy!
i recommend not to use the spudger. you damage more than by unpluggin the plug by hand. just simply pull the cable close to the plug of the old fan softly upwards out. the plug than comes easily out. put the new fan in and push the new plug by hand in. it is much easier than using a spudger. i also started with a spudger but nearly broke the plug out, so i watched a youtube tutorial and learned about it…
-
-
-
Saisissez la languette en plastique fixée au dispositif de verrouillage du câble de données de l'écran et pivotez-la vers le côté DC-In (prise d'alimentation) de l'ordinateur.
-
Tirez le câble de données de l'écran tout droit hors de sa prise sur la carte mère, vers le côté DC-In de l'ordinateur.
-
-
-
-
Retirez les deux vis suivantes, attachant la fixation du câble de données de l'écran au boîtier supérieur :
-
Une vis cruciforme de 7 mm.
-
Une vis cruciforme de 5 mm.
-
Retirez la fixation du câble de données de l'écran du boîtier supérieur.
If you only want to replace the DC-in board, stop here and GOTO 17 (and DO NOT 4 and 6).
When the Logic board is loose, lift it up on the Harddrive end and shift slightly towards the HD, so that the USB connectors at the outside come free from under the case rim and the board can be lifted up a bit. Then there´s enough room to move the DC in board, pull the cable out with a pair of tweezers, wriggle it out from under the microphone cable and wriggle the new connector in. It can be pushed into the socket with tweezers or a small screwdriver. This worked perfect for me.
Be careful not to bend the logic board, but otherwise I think there´s much less risk of messing anything up with all the connectors and bits and pieces that need to be loosened and fastened.
-
-
-
Tirez la nappe de la caméra vers le lecteur optique pour la débrancher de la carte mère.
There is a small piece just below this connector which is just an adhesive block to keep the connector from coming out. It is easiest to peel it up first with a fingernail or spudger then remove the cable. Likewise reinsert the cable before reapplying the adhesive safety stop.
I couldn't reconnect this cable correctly, so my camera is not working anymore.
It doesn't matter to me, I didn't used the camera that often...
But the Ambient Light Sensor uses the camera to control keyboard lighting, so I wasn't able to see my keyboard in the dark anymore... :(
If you have the same problem, after a couple of google hits I've found this app: https://www.macupdate.com/app/mac/22151/...
Problem solved! YAY!
PS: be careful because WIFI passes through this cable as well!!!!
Look at the photo intently. The connector is inserting not in parallel, but at a slight angle. The bottom corner of the connector is slightly ahead. It is important! Singular metod to insert it.
Vladimir -
-
-
-
Avec votre ongle ou la pointe d'une spatule, ouvrez le clapet de retenue de la prise ZIF de la nappe du clavier.
-
Avec votre spatule, faites glisser la nappe du clavier hors de sa prise.
When reinserting the keyboard ribbon cable, make sure you push it in all the way (two plastic tools are helpful - one to push it down flat, the other to coax it all the way in). For 3 days after replacing a top case, my MacBook Pro 13" wouldn't start up. I thought the main logic board was fried too. However, reinserting the keyboard ribbon cable again, this time perhaps 1mm farther in, and it started up again! I did the same for the "keyboard backlight ribbon cable" (i.e. reinserted it just to make sure). Really not sure which completed the circuit so is would start, but I suspect the keyboard ribbon cable.
Citation de amiller770 :
When reinserting the keyboard ribbon cable, make sure you push it in all the way (two plastic tools are helpful - one to push it down flat, the other to coax it all the way in).
I usually use a piece of sticky transparent office tape and stick it over the flat cable a bit further away from the mating part then pull on it. There is no better way to force the flat cable into a stiff connector without damaging the fragile cable.
As others have stated, if the keyboard ribbon cable isn't fully inserted the MBP will not power on. Leo Bodnar's recommendation to use a piece of transparent office tape did the trick for me. Many thanks Leo!
Inserting the ribbon cable for the keyboard was really difficult, but i was able to get it in using a piece of tape and pulling it up, just like the tape on the keyboard backlight.
Using a piece of tape is sheer genius Kelly. My mom once said her definition of genius was an idea that, when you hear it, you say to yourself, “now why didn’t I think of that?” But you never would have thought of it. Brava (or bravo) Kelly!
-
-
-
Saisissez le côté gauche de la carte mère et soulevez-la jusqu'à ce que les ports s'écartent du côté du boîtier supérieur.
-
Éloignez la carte mère du côté du boîtier supérieur et retirez-la en évitant que la carte de raccordement MagSafe (DC-In) ne reste accrochée.
When putting the logic board back in place, it's easier to angle the mic down in it's place as you are placing the board in, rather than after the board is seated.
-
-
-
Déconnectez la carte de raccordement MagSafe (DC-In) en retirant son connecteur de la prise sur la carte mère.
-
Pour remonter votre ordinateur, suivez les instructions dans le sens inverse.
Pour remonter votre ordinateur, suivez les instructions dans le sens inverse.
Annulation : je n'ai pas terminé ce tutoriel.
89 autres ont terminé cette réparation.
Merci à ces traducteurs :
100%
Claire Miesch nous aide à réparer le monde ! Vous voulez contribuer ?
Commencez à traduire ›
5 commentaires
Reassembling: Make sure, the cable of the DC-In board is on the logic board-side of the screw hole when putting in the logic board. Otherwise the display data cable bracket won't fit in and you have to remove the board again.
So I hope, the DC-In board was really the cause of my problems. I changed the battery and the charging cable before and still had problems. At this moment my macbook loads again, but I don't know if its because of the board or again just luck. Thank you very much for the guide.
Many thanks for this great manual. You helped me to prolong my old MacBook’s life and I saved a lot of money. Carry on the good work!
Any possibilities to also show “how to upgrade the mother board”?
Compare the short screws carefully before reinstalling them. The shouldered screws go in the holes on the front edge.
David Kilbridge - Réponse
Before I started removing any screws I took a piece of paper and drew the bottom of the laptop and put a piece of double-sided tape in the spot where each screw goes. That way when I took out the screws, I could put them on the tape so I knew exactly which screw went in which spot. I did the same thing for dismantling the inside on another sheet of paper, then a third sheet for the screen after getting the front glass off.
mastover - Réponse
I use a similar technique: I print out the iFixit manual for the job, and Scotch-tape down the screws/brackets/cables I remove at each step next to the component descriptions. That way, when I'm reassembling, the bits are taped right next to the photo of where they came from.
adlerpe -
That's exactly what I do for all my repairs! It's the best way to keep track of all of the parts ' original location and to make sure that you don't miss any parts during reassembly.
joyitsjennie -
Great idea and one I use often
Thomas Overstreet -
Excellent idea! Thanks for sharing it here.
Laura Sharkey -
I used a 00 that fit but the screws were very tight so I used a tiny paintbrush with some wd40 on it and put it around the edges of the screws. Worked like a charm
valentinedhdh - Réponse
I use a magnetic mat and place the screws in order on that :)
Cary B - Réponse