Introduction
Impossible de recharger? Ce tutoriel vous aide à remplacer une carte de raccordement MagSafe défectueuse.
Ce dont vous avez besoin
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Retirez les dix vis suivantes par lesquelles le boîtier inférieur est fixé au boîtier supérieur :
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Sept vis Phillips 3 mm.
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Trois vis Phillips 13,5 mm.
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Retirez les deux vis Pentalobe P5 disposées le long du côté supérieur de la batterie.
Question: why do you remove the battery? According to Apple's official manual, this is not required (not for the mid-2009 and not for the mid-2010 15-inch MacBook Pro) - see pages 37 ff:
Citation de alexkli :
Question: why do you remove the battery? According to Apple's official manual, this is not required (not for the mid-2009 and not for the mid-2010 15-inch MacBook Pro) - see pages 37 ff:
I'm interested by your experience.
Did you have removed the optical drive without removing the battery ?
I'm just in this step now and if it is possible I would proceed like you because removing the battery void the warranty (and there is a sticker).
Thanks in advance.
Looks like my note to step 3 appears on all repair guides that have the same step. I meant that in the context of the hard drive replacement only.
Did you have removed the optical drive without removing the battery ?
I haven't yet done anything, waiting for my MacBook Pro 15 inch mid-2010 to arrive.
I missed the notes and went ahead and purchased the 5 point driver for the battery before I realized it was not necessary.
I've edited the repair guide to remove the section on the battery, but I don't have the points to approve the changes.
Please note - the step about removing the battery is part of a pre-requisite guide, that is used for many of the guides, most that do require removal of the battery. Also, working inside a disassembled laptop with the battery still connected risks damaging/shorting out very expensive parts.
Absolutely. To be clear -- ALL of the above discussion is ONLY in reference to replacing the hard drive.
I replaced a hard drive in a MacBook Pro of an earlier model than this without removing the battery. The hard drive wasn't right. It only worked at about half speed, and I had to replace it once more. The second time I removed the battery and all went well. The recommendation by the iFixit staff to remove the battery before working on electronic equipment is a good one.
What is the size of those screws... I have rounded off the socket on mine and would like to replace them.
I measured the screw size, using a micrometer, its about 1.523mm in diameter and 3.186mm in length. Not sure what screw size that is. They are not easily available I guess, unless someone is selling used ones on ebay
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Soulevez la batterie en tirant sur la languette d'extraction et dégagez-la du boîtier supérieur.
My T6 (appears to be same screw driver you have - $6 on amazon for 20piece set) did NOT fit int he battery screws...not sure if I had the wrong screws or what, but I went ahead w/o battery steps and it was pretty easy.
I also noticed that the new SDD (from crucial) didn't have the 4 screws, so I had to move those off the old HD and onto the new one.
Just had the same issue: T6 does not fit the battery screws ;-( ... but with a little bit more preassure it was possible to remove the screws.
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Inclinez la batterie vers l'arrière suffisamment pour accéder au connecteur du câble de la batterie.
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Débranchez le câble de la batterie de sa prise sur la carte mère et retirez la batterie du boîtier supérieur.
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Avec une spatule (spudger), faites levier sur le connecteur du ventilateur pour le déconnecter de la carte mère.
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Dévissez les trois vis Torx T6 fixant le ventilateur gauche à la carte mère.
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Ôtez le ventilateur du boîtier supérieur.
Top left screw in this picture isn't a torx screw, and should be left in place. The screw you want is a bit further down than the one circled.
Good catch! It's fixed now.
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Avec l'extrémité plate d'une spatule, déconnectez le connecteur du ventilateur gauche de la carte mère.
I didn't understand the description of the step to remove the fan connectors and I broke them both off. However! If anyone else does this, don't panic, the soldered connections are not electrical; they're just there to secure the fan connector. If you have the equipment you may be able to solder them back on, but I just put the whole thing back together - carefully sliding the jack back over the pins - and held it down with polyimide tape. I am using my Macbook Pro right now and the fans are definitely working.
For my Mid 2009 Macbook Pro, I only had one fan, so didn't have to do step 9 and 10.
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Dévissez les trois vis Torx T6 fixant le ventilateur gauche à la carte mère.
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Ôtez le ventilateur gauche du boîtier supérieur.
For my Mid 2009 Macbook Pro, I only had one fan, so didn't have to do step 9 and 10.
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Maintenez le bout de la fixation de la nappe vers le bas avec un de vos doigts. En même temps, avec la pointe d'une spatule, soulevez légèrement l'autre bout et pivotez-le en l'éloignant du connecteur de la nappe de la caméra.
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Déconnectez la nappe de la caméra en tirant l'embout mâle tout droit hors de sa prise.
I’ve tried to clear things up in a pending modification, since I also had problems getting the point of this step. Hope it helps.
The “strip” is the shiny black thing on the photo. The tip of the spudger is “pointing” at it on the photo. In fact it is already pushing the “strip” out of the way to be able to pull out the connector.
I finally got my system back together & running so much cooler after removing, cleaning the heat sink & repasting the CPU die & the two GPU dies. But working backward from this step to put it back together was most arduous: neither camera nor WiFi/Bluetooth worked when I first put the system back together. This is because it was hard to gauge that this connector was indeed back together and hold it so, based on 12 year-old fabric-padded adhesive alone. In the end, I checked that no pins in the connector were bent, guided them in as firmly as a flat spudger (not my hand, which twisted the cable at an angle) would allow, held it in the connector bay with electrical tape, put the fabric cushion back on top of that, and electrical taped across the cushion, between the connector bay and the cable. Phew! After tons of trial and error, put the system back together & both WiFi/Bluetooth and the camera work again!
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Avec l'extrémité plate d'une spatule, faites levier sur le connecteur du subwoofer pour le débrancher du connecteur jack.
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Dévissez les vis suivantes :
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Sept vis Torx T6 de 3,3 mm fixant la carte mère au boîtier supérieur.
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Deux vis Torx T6 de 8 mm fixant la carte de raccordement MagSafe (DC-In) au boîtier supérieur.
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Posez la carte mère sur une surface douce et plate, le dissipateur thermique vers le haut.
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Déconnctez le connecteur de la carte de raccordement MagSafe de la carte mère en le tirant tout droit hors de sa prise.
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Pour remonter votre ordinateur, suivez les instructions dans le sens inverse.
Pour remonter votre ordinateur, suivez les instructions dans le sens inverse.
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11 commentaires
Great guide. The locking flaps in Steps 18, 21 and 23 are a little hard to decipher in the pictures. I accidentally pulled out the keyboard ribbon cable without unlocking its retaining flap, but I apparently got it in back correctly (after lifting the flap) and didn't break anything because everything works now. This has solved the charging problems I've had for years. I should be able to get a couple more useful years out of this machine now.
Great guide. For my Mid 2009 Macbook Pro, I only had one fan, so didn't have to do step 9 and 10. Also in Step 24 I had 8 3.3mm T6 Torx, not 7. Other than that was perfect!
How long did it take you Anonymous 7084?
Very good guide. It worked out perfectly for me. It takes around 45 minutes to complete.
Question: In My late model 2011 MacBook Pro is the pin port replaceable? The actual pins? It looks from the photo (step 28) as though it is adhered to the board. The receiving pins in the port in my Notebook are burning away and charging plug contact is greatly affected.
I replaced the MagSafe board following this guide, as the pins in the old one were bent and crufty.
I now see a dim green light when connected to the new MagSafe port. However, I press the power button, and nothing happens. I disconnected the power source and took off the cover to maker sure all of the connections were re-connected. Everything, at least that’s visible without removing the logic board again.
Any suggestions on how to troubleshoot this?
Thanks for these detailed instructions! Can I use this guide and the tools for a 13 Inch Mac Book Pro as well? Cheers, Antje
I meant this one: MacBook Pro (13-inch, medio 2012)
Oh I’m sorry, I found the right guide!
May be helpful to have more distinct colors to identify the different screws.
Victor Caamano - Réponse