Introduction
La carte mère de votre iPod contrôle à peu près tout votre iPod.
Ce dont vous avez besoin
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Sur le côté droit de l'iPod, insérez un médiator aussi loin que possible dans l'espace entre la partie avant en plastique et la coque arrière métallique.
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Faites levier contre la partie avant en plastique avec le médiator pour déclipser les 5 pattes en plastique(voir photo 3).
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Glissez l'outil le long du côté avec le même mouvement de levier pour détacher toutes les pattes.
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Quand les 5 pattes du côté droit sont bien déclipsées, les deux parties du boîtier devraient s'écarter facilement.
This being the first time I opened my iPod, it was super tight. Nothing plastic I had was strong enough; even my thumbnail just barely could get a sliver of separation, not big enough to wedge anything else in there. The sandwiched halves of the case chewed up my spudger pretty good, and so I actually resorted (slap on wrist) to a Liquitex acrylic-painting knife, kind of a superthin metal spatula, which worked perfectly. Just had to slide it in carefully. Unit is way out of warranty, though, so I wasn’t too concerned about some superficial damage to the edge of the plastic case front, which did in fact occur. Probably be easier next time around.
This step is incorrect and should be changed. There is no way to slide anything into that space except a straight edge razor blade or something just as sharp and sturdy. Once the blade is firmly in place, you can then slip in an opening pick and remove the blade. From there, everything else is accurate.
I second the suggestion of using a putty knife. Worked way better! A bit nerve-racking at first as I was afraid of doing serious damage, but I succeeded. I’m definitely a novice at this, but these comments helped at every turn.
I also had trouble opening the case at first but, having looked at some other instructions from other guides, I found it easiest to start the opening from the top, After that everything was straitforward. Installing the new battery and reconnecting the couple of connectors took less than two minutes. New battery charging now, but iPod working perfectly at the moment. Many thanks.
No way you're getting a pick in there. I tried and it's too tight. Start with iPod opening tool to make your gap. Hold it open and wiggle in a pick. Then wiggle and slide the pick up and down the side and it pops right open.
I had a lot of trouble with this. This video made it super easy though https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dYZqTvlT... Pressing firmly on the back in the center and using the case opener tool made it super easy. Recommend!
I found that starting at the top was much easier than the side. I also found the pick too soft. The plastic spudger included in kit worked great.
Spent an hour trying I had no tools but my long nails it worked with no damage to the ipod rip my nails though
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Ouvrez la coque comme un livre, en soulevant le bord du connecteur de dock, et posez la coque arrière à côté de la moitié avant de l'iPod.
This is the most fragile piece to work with in the whole process. Make sure you have some glasses or something and actually watch the individual pins while you reconnect the cable. I can't see so close, and didn't see what I was doing clearly. Consequently I broke the pins.
In my case the cable of of Headphone Jack was to short. so i Cent oben it like a book. instead i lifted the backside up until it gets hold by the cable. Then slowly move the backside to the right ( if the Headphone Jack is facing you). perhaps u have to tilt it a little so ist gets over the corner of the hdd. Now is the Plug in reach of a spudge from three sides. It make its also easier to reconnect the plug to the socket.
*Spelling fixes*
In my case the cable of of Headphone Jack was to short. so i cant open it like a book. Instead i lifted the backside up until it gets hold by the cable. Then slowly move the backside to the right ( if the Hedphone Jack is facing you). perhaps u have to tilt it a little so it gets over the corner of the hdd. Now is the Plug in reach of a spudge from three sides. It make its also easier to reconnect the plug to the socket.
Gyro -
In meinen Fall war das Kabel leider zu kurz. stattdessen habe ich die Rückseite parallel angehoben, soweit das Kabel reichte. Dann die Rückseite vorsichtig nach rechts bewegen ( die Anschlüsse zeigen dabei zu einen hin). Unter Umständen muss man durch etwas Kippen der Rückseite über die Ecke der Festplatte bugsieren. der Stecker ist jetzt von drei Seiten aus erreichbar ( Spudge oder ähnliches). auch beim wieder einstöpseln kann man den Stecker besser /grader aufsetzen.
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Utilisez un outil en plastique ou vos ongles pour débrancher la nappe orange de la prise casque. Assurez-vous de soulever le connecteur et non la nappe même.
Be very careful disconnecting. In fact may want to leave connected. I "removed" the entire piece pins and all from the board and had to replace the logic board to fix. A $15 fix turned into $65. Happy to say got it fixed with a new board but this was a crucial step that cost me big time! Again leave headphone jack connected if at all possible!!
At this point I damaged the motherboard irreversibly!!
This guide should be modified. You should not attempt this step. Either you replace the battery without disconnecting the ribbon. Or if you really want more room, you unscrew the other little board from the the metal half of the case.
Now I have to buy another ipod :-(
It is worth noting that the connector for the iPod 4th gen and the iPod photo/color are NOT compatible. The 4th gen has only 10 pins, whereas the photo/color have 12 pins.
I successfully installed the new battery without removing the ribbon cable.
I followed the advice in the comments and skipped this step entirely. I did not remove this connecter. It made the remaining steps more difficult because I couldn’t lay the parts open flat, but I managed to do it by myself without removal.
Mine had plenty of slack to lay open like a book without disconnecting. Check this first and don't mess with it if you don't need to. It's not necessary for changing a battery.
It is perfectly easy to remove the cable if you are careful and observe what you are attempting to disengage. The plug on the ribbon cable goes into the small black socket on the motherboard. Look sideways at the assembly and slide a thin spudger between the top of the socket and the small board that forms the end of the cable. Lever gently upwards to disengage the cable plug. That way you cannot exert force between the socket and the motherboard and you won’t damage the board.
It's like a Lego I just popped it off sorry for those who broke it
If u can leave it plugged
I also broke the ribbon cable like others before me. I was a fool to disconnect the ribbon cable. MY HUBRIS!!!!!
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Saisissez le disque dur d'une main et débranchez soigneusement la nappe orange du disque dur de l'autre.
Just a curious question, since the hard drive is quite fragile, can it be replaced with a lets say: 8 GB fast CF card with built-in ATA?
It can with an adapter. I picked one up on ebay for $2 from Hong Kong.
The Hard Drive can be replaced with a CompactFlash to Toshiba 1.8-inch IDE Hard Drive Converter and a CF Card. It works! http://www.dx.com/p/cf-to-toshiba-1-8-in...
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Décollez la bande adhésive noire recouvrant la nappe du disque dur.
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Utilisez la pointe de votre doigt ou un spudgher pour faire soigneusement pivoter le connecteur noir fixant la nappe du disque dur à la carte mère. Notez que le clip noir de retenue s'ouvre de 90 degrés vers le haut, dans le sens de la nappe.
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Déconnectez soigneusement de la carte mère le connecteur blanc de la batterie. Assurez-vous de ne tirer que sur le connecteur même et non sur les câbles.
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Utilisez un spudger pour faire basculer les barres noires de fixation retenant les connecteurs de l'écran et de la molette cliquable sur la carte mère.
This photo shows the display connector of an iPod 4th gen. The display connector of the photo/color is quite different.
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Faites glisser la nappe orange de la molette cliquable hors sur son connecteur. Vous devez déverrouiller ce connecteur avant de faire glisser la nappe. Le mécanisme de verrouillage se trouve sur le côté opposé de l'endroit où la nappe est insérée et pivote de 90 degrés vers le haut. Utilisez un spudger pour soulever le mécanisme de verrouillage.
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Pour remonter votre appareil, suivez ces instructions dans l'ordre inverse.
Pour remonter votre appareil, suivez ces instructions dans l'ordre inverse.
Annulation : je n'ai pas terminé ce tutoriel.
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3 commentaires
what's the differece between 20G logic board and 40G logic board? I have changed hard drive into CF card and now I have to change logic board..
So there’s the difference between 20gb and 40gb logic board? I’ve changed 20gb HDD to new 40gb HDD and now Can't get to work my ipod! So what to do?
No idea if anyone will respond to this but here goes: Okay so I just want to know if you can repair the part where you attach the screen cable to the logic board, that part suddenly came off and was wondering if there’s a way to reattach that part back onto the logic board so the display can show up??
How necessary is it to have the HOLD switch in the locked position? On my iPod the switch is stuck in the unlocked position and I can't force it into locked.
Is locking the iPod for a mechanical reason or an electrical/software reason?
gabeshaikh - Réponse
It is for an electrical reason. If the iPod hold switch is kept on, the device will not turn on, thus ensuring the device stays powered off while performing service.
trusty - Réponse
I have a 60 GB iPod photo that needs a new Logic Board. I bought a 30 GB used iPod on eBay and replaced the Logic Board. Now the iPod thinks the hard drive is only 30 GB, when it is really 60 GB. It works, but the hard drive is not recognized for its full size. Sites like this offer a 20 GB and 40 GB logic board...I apparently need 60 GB. Can I bypass this somehow, or do I really need a logic board that is specifically made for 60 GB???
Mark - Réponse
My 30gig drive shows up as a 16.4gig. I can not for the life of me, figure out why this is doing this. Can anyone help? Thanks!
Stephan - Réponse
Hello,
First thank you for this tuto and help.
I did follow your instructions and every step was ok but when I closed my i'Pod, it kept staying on the lock position even with moving the lock button.
Now it has charged but I could not make it run.
So I did a complete reboot by connecting it to my Mac with i'Tunes to restore.
It's still locked.
What can I do?
Than You for your answer
Thomas
Voisin - Réponse
Much quicker and far easier opening from the right side instead of from the top using the blue plastic spudger. Opened in under 10sec. Do not know why this guide asks you to start from the top and work it to the left corner. Perhaps it was meant as a challenge.
Edwin Seah - Réponse
Well, I did it! I am pretty mechanically inclined, but I don't work well with small stuff. Anyway, as others mentioned, this step was the hardest for me, the included tools, worthless (to start to separate the case) As another person mentioned, I used a razor blade on the side on the upper left corner pushing down toward the metal clips, 'pop' once the first came off, then I used the blue tools to release the remaining clips. I didn't want to remove the connector in step 8, but had literally no room to work, the connector is a square push in type that is attached to the ribbon cable, I pryed with the blue tool carefully at the connector base, it popped right off! (getting is back on was more challenging, but managed with a small pair of needle nose pliers.) Had to pry the old battery out carefully - it was really in there. Got it all back together, works like a champ! Thanks ifixit!
mikesnyder - Réponse
Promptly broke both blue plastic tools. I used a putty knife to pop the case. Opening was the only hard part. I didn't disconnect the headphone cable. No problems and the battery has enough charge that I listening to Bare Naked Ladies now. Last week I installed a new hard drive in my Mac mini. IFixit is the greatest!
heldon - Réponse
If you are lucky, your battery may swell up like mind did, short of blowing up it opened the case for me. That being done really made it easy and encouraged me to do the repair myself. I still needed the proper screw driver (T6 Torx Screwdriver) to remove the two black torx screws that are found at step 10 of this repair guide. I purchased the iFixit 64bit driver kit, simply because I intend to work on several other iPods and phones, the kit is of good quality, well worth the purchase. If you have some mechanical ability, and follow the instructions, I was done in about 20 minutes, placed it back on my Bose player. I couldn't wait for it to charge, just wanted it to start playing, and after a minute or so my iPod 4th gen 20 gb was playing the music which I hadn't heard in about 3 to 4 years, as a result of a enlarged battery. As I write these comments down, I'm listening to my sweet tunes with a big smile on my mug, the sign of a satisfied customer. Thanks to iFIXIT.!!!
Alex DeLeon - Réponse