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Introduction
Le panneau logique ressemble au système nerveux central de la capsule temporelle. Sans la carte logique, l'appareil ne fonctionnera pas. Les ports Ethernet sont connectés à la carte logique. Par conséquent, si un port est endommagé, vous devez remplacer la carte entière. Utilisez ce guide pour remplacer facilement le composant endommagé.
Ce dont vous avez besoin
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Retournez l'appareil pour révéler la section en caoutchouc de la plaque arrière. À l'aide d'un spudger en métal, insérez délicatement l'extrémité émoussée dans l'espace situé entre la plaque arrière en aluminium et le caoutchouc, en séparant les deux pièces.
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Retirez les dix vis de 3 mm avec un tournevis cruciforme n ° 00.
The two screws in the top center of this picture should not be removed at this time. They are locating pins on the hard drive.
Correct - the four screws top centre with glue over then do not need to come out. They are only locating posts for the HDD.
Tony Meredith - 2018-06-26
CONFIRMED. Thank you very much for the screws which should not be removed. You guys are right.
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Le ventilateur apposé sur la plaque arrière est connecté à la carte logique. Un petit fil doit être détaché pour retirer complètement la plaque arrière.
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Tirez la base du fil près de la carte logique et le connecteur se détachera.
Be careful you do not rip the locating connector off the circuit board like I did.
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Retirez le connecteur externe de son logement en le soulevant puis en le tirant.
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Soulevez le bloc d’alimentation interne de l’appareil.
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Déconnectez le dernier câble d'alimentation de la carte logique.
very easy to find a replacement one on ALIEXPRESS. I bought one, it was not new but a refurbished but it works.
https://fr.aliexpress.com/item/400119317...
very to change it
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Décollez la mousse adhésive du haut du lecteur.
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Soulevez le lecteur tout droit et sortez-le de l'appareil.
Probably worth noting that the adhesive backed foam is covering what appears to be a temperature sensor which is stuck to the drive. That needs to be removed and installed on the new drive too. In addition there are pins and rubber boots (which may still be attached to the metal cover removed in step 2) on the drive which need to be transferred to the new drive. I couldn't unscrew them from my drive and had to use pliers to loosen them.
One should also remove the 4 distance pieces/spacers (2 aluminum screws [P1] on each side of the hard drive).
No need to remove the distance spacers, the drive will come out anyway.
Correct, but they will be needed on the new drive.
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Retirez le connecteur SATA et le connecteur d'alimentation de l'extrémité du disque dur en tirant simplement les câbles tout de suite des points de connexion.
https://d3nevzfk7ii3be.cloudfront.net/ig...
In the photo showing the bottom of the capsule and the 12 circled screws: only 10 need to be removed (as the instructions say). In this step, do not remove the 2 screws at the top center.
After the hard drive is removed, unscrew the 4 standoffs from the old drive and transfer them to the new hard drive. Be sure to account for all 4 grey rubber "o-rings" that go on these standoffs.
Reassemble.
Format the new drive using Airport Utility.
Once the hard drive is removed, can it be installed in an aftermarket enclosure and using as an external drive.
Oldirish1948
That is my question too. I have one of these and I want to put the hard drive in my iMac. Will that work?
Alec -
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Retirez les trois vis 4mm de la base de la carte avec un tournevis cruciforme n ° 0.
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Pour remonter votre appareil, suivez ces instructions dans l’ordre inverse.
Pour remonter votre appareil, suivez ces instructions dans l’ordre inverse.
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Équipe
Cal Poly, Team 4-2, Livingston Fall 2016 Membre de l'équipe Cal Poly, Team 4-2, Livingston Fall 2016
CPSU-LIVINGSTON-F16S4G2
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17 tutoriels rédigés
2 commentaires
Between step 12 and 13 there is no detail on how to remove the board! I did the procedure until step #12 but board is firmly attached to the case! even after pullling the metal tabs it’s still glued to the base, please help
The board seems stuck because of sticky thermal pads between the chips and the housing. Assuming all screws are removed and cables disconnected, you should be able to pull up the board by just applying force. Hope this helps.
The epoxy cementing the rubber pad to the aluminum base is a lot stronger than the rubber itself. The rubber is likely to tear as you remove it; I had to use a putty knife to clear the screws. It's worth hanging onto the branding near the Ethernet ports, for future identification (model number, serial number, Ethernet ID, AirPort ID); you can fashion a replacement pad out of neoprene rubber.
adlerpe - Réponse
Mine completely ripped I have no back cover now its in multiple pieces…. mine was giving off way to much heat and hard drive errors so I decided to replace hard drive and fan wish me luck BUT if yours is overheating do not expect to get back off without ripping the rubber to
William - Réponse
Using a fan to heat the plate up was helpful
Michael Zimmermann - Réponse
I wish I read Michael Zimmermann’s suggestion before I tore the first half into about 15 pieces! On the second half I used a hair dryer to heat the rubber. With enough heat and a very slow steady pull on the rubber it came of as a single piece :-)
mfred2 - Réponse
Do I need to put back on the rubber? will it overheat if I don’t?
Strider - Réponse
It is almost impossible to keep the bottom rubber covering intact in one piece. The rubber is covering the whole base section and it won’t be a problem without it I guess. This is not an epoxy because it is still gummy and sticky. This is like the adhesive used on the double side tapes. Goo Gone worked well to remove those residues.
Kenn Sakurai - Réponse
The rubber cap like bottom can be replaced with easy to cut in shape cork sheet will do. Just rip off the thin strip where the serial number for the ID and other info that might be needed later. Have it glued or put on a clear tape and put it on the side of the white plastic sidewall will do.
Kenn Sakurai - Réponse
With age, the rubber becomes brittle. It is best to heat it up with a hair dryer before trying to gently peel it off.
SirDeck - Réponse
Mine was probably about 10 years old at this point. I used a clothes iron (flatiron) set on medium heat ("permanent press"), and a piece of "parchment paper" from the kitchen between iron and rubber. After 30 seconds or so, the glue was softened enough that I could lift off the rubber, a little at a time using a putty knife. It all came off in one piece, with essentially all the glue still attached to the rubber. My thanks to the person (forgot the name, it was on one of the "drive replacement" articles for one of the other model Time Capsules) who suggested the iron.
Paul Koning - Réponse