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Introduction

Ce guide est uniquement un pré-requis.

  1. Avec l'extrémité plate d'une spatule, soulevez le connecteur du ventilateur droit hors de sa prise sur la carte mère.
    • Avec l'extrémité plate d'une spatule, soulevez le connecteur du ventilateur droit hors de sa prise sur la carte mère.

    • Il est utile de faire pivoter la spatule en dessous des câbles du ventilateur pour débrancher le connecteur.

    Of course, this is not the right fan but the left in the picture.

    maccentric - Réponse

    Managed to break off a fan connector. Really poor mistake there, as it really is not too hard. Follow exactly like the picture and realize that it lifts up! But good news, I managed to break one of the least important parts and the computer still runs fine!

    Sam - Réponse

  2. Dévissez les trois vis Torx T6 de 3,4 mm (3,1 mm) fixant le ventilateur droit à la carte mère. Ôtez le ventilateur droit de son emplacement dans la carte mère.
    • Dévissez les trois vis Torx T6 de 3,4 mm (3,1 mm) fixant le ventilateur droit à la carte mère.

    • Ôtez le ventilateur droit de son emplacement dans la carte mère.

  3. Retirez la nappe de la caméra de sa prise sur la carte mère.
    • Retirez la nappe de la caméra de sa prise sur la carte mère.

    • Ne soulevez pas la nappe de la caméra vers le haut quand vous la déconnectez. Vous risqueriez d'endommager et la nappe et la carte mère. Tirez sur la nappe parallèlement à la surface de la carte mère.

    One can see how to remove the cable in this picture: https://d3nevzfk7ii3be.cloudfront.net/ig...

    Better than pull is to push it with something like a screwdrive at the small angle left and right.

    Alex Nevell - Réponse

  4. Avec l'extrémité plate d'une spatule, soulevez le connecteur AirPort/Bluetooth pour le débrancher de sa prise sur la carte mère.
    • Avec l'extrémité plate d'une spatule, soulevez le connecteur AirPort/Bluetooth pour le débrancher de sa prise sur la carte mère.

    Am I the only one but my MacBook has black shielding on the CD-R drive, not some clear tape stuff to reveal the internals on the drive….

    Vincent Mahler - Réponse

  5. Avec l'extrémité plate d'une spatule, soulevez le connecteur du lecteur optique pour le débrancher de sa prise sur la carte mère.
    • Avec l'extrémité plate d'une spatule, soulevez le connecteur du lecteur optique pour le débrancher de sa prise sur la carte mère.

    Mine had a little adhesive strip behind the connector. Pull gently

    nicholasmcroberts - Réponse

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  7. Débranchez la nappe du capteur IR/disque dur de sa prise sur la carte mère en faisant levier sous le connecteur.
    • Débranchez la nappe du capteur IR/disque dur de sa prise sur la carte mère en faisant levier sous le connecteur.

  8. Avec l'extrémité plate d'une spatule, soulevez le connecteur subwoofer/haut-parleur droite pour le débrancher de sa prise sur la carte mère.
    • Avec l'extrémité plate d'une spatule, soulevez le connecteur subwoofer/haut-parleur droite pour le débrancher de sa prise sur la carte mère.

    • Faites levier sous les câbles.

    Be really, really careful detaching this connector - make sure it's lifted from the cable side. I managed to remove the whole lot from the logic board by accident. On mine it was disguised under a lump of rubber foam.

    To replace it, I removed the socket, held it in place against the solder pads and ran a 750degF soldering iron across the pads. It's definitely reattached it, I'm not sure how good the electrical contacts are yet.

    afoster - Réponse

    There is foam on the top of this connector. Do not pry up from under that. Instead, put your spudger underneath the red and black wires themselves and pry up. Very little resistance.

    Alex Grayson - Réponse

  9. Dévissez les deux vis cruciformes de 1,5 mm (1,2 mm) fixant le cache de la nappe clavier/pavé tactile à la carte mère. Retirez le cache de la carte mère et mettez-le de côté.
    • Dévissez les deux vis cruciformes de 1,5 mm (1,2 mm) fixant le cache de la nappe clavier/pavé tactile à la carte mère.

    • Retirez le cache de la carte mère et mettez-le de côté.

    Be sure to use the right size screwdriwer, as these screws might be hard to remove. I ended up having to cut the metal cover and bend it away as the screws wouldn't come loose.

    That works too however..

    dmitri - Réponse

    I ended up using a #000 phillips screwdriver instead of the #00. I was able to get this piece up without issue.

    Dave Bruhn - Réponse

    I bought ph#00 screwdriver and it doesn't work for all phillips screws. Just buy #000 phillips screwdrive for all phillips screws.

    ozhan - Réponse

    Can I get it work with PH#00?

    Utsav Dusad - Réponse

    I was able to skip this step, along with 16, 17, & 18, and complete the repair successfully. Instead of fully removing the logic board as described in step 22, I lifted the left edge and then wiggled it left until I could lift it from the hinge edge; this gave me plenty of room to see what I was doing while removing and replacing the DC-in board.

    Sarah Dunlap - Réponse

    @Sarah Dunlap. Yes, I did the same, it entirely possible ( although fiddly ) to complete this repair without fully removing the Logic board and instead lifting it out of the way taking care not to put too much tension on the keyboard ribbon cable.

    bill borez - Réponse

    I used the J000 bit (I think this is a JIS bit, not Phillips) for these screws and they seemed like a much better fit. It seems like the screws aren’t actually Phillips (ie. with the curved, cam-out corners) but are squared off.

    Andrew Wharton - Réponse

  10. Avec l'extrémité plate d'une spatule, soulevez le connecteur du pavé tactile pour le débrancher de sa prise sur la carte mère.
    • Avec l'extrémité plate d'une spatule, soulevez le connecteur du pavé tactile pour le débrancher de sa prise sur la carte mère.

  11. Avec votre ongle, ouvrez le clapet de retenue de la prise ZIF de la nappe du clavier. Assurez-vous de faire levier sur le clapet de retenue rabattu et non pas sur la prise elle-même.
    • Avec votre ongle, ouvrez le clapet de retenue de la prise ZIF de la nappe du clavier.

    • Assurez-vous de faire levier sur le clapet de retenue rabattu et non pas sur la prise elle-même.

    • Avec la pointe d'une spatule, tirez la nappe du clavier hors de sa prise.

    Need a better picture of the zif connector. You lift the lock from the side farthest from the flat cable, and it lifts toward the cable. When reinserting be sure to get the cable all the way or you may have only half the keyboard working.

    Jim - Réponse

    Definitely should have read this comment before I cracked the ZIF socket…

    Joshua Vande Walle -

    I could use some advice on reinserting the ZIF cable firmly in its socket. I can get it started, but getting it far enough in to make contact is difficult, given its flexibility. Any tips on manipulating it?

    CJ Attias - Réponse

    I used a piece of sticky tape that I attached to the ZIF cable, then pulled firmly on the tape (attached to the cable) to get the ZIF cable to seat properly. The tape held to the cable, the ZIF cable seated properly, and the keyboard worked.

    robertemcgee -

    getting the cable back in was leaps and bounds more difficult than this entire replacement job! be very very careful and note that it goes alllll the way in. i bent the ribbon like crazy, but the keyboard still seems to work fine!

    shmianco - Réponse

    REINSERTING THIS CABLE WAS ABSOLUTELY THE MOST DIFFICULT STEP IN THIS WHOLE PROCESS!

    Key points:

    •Make sure that it's inserted evenly. It's tempting to get one edge in, and then the other, but that approach will prevent it from seating properly.

    •The cable goes all the way in. There is maybe 1/16" of the little grooves showing, but not much more.

    •Once the cable is properly seated, use a piece of tape to pull it all the way in, and keep the tension on the tape as you use a sprudger to flip down the retaining flap.

    •It's a fragile connection, and if you break the cable it's a top-case or keyboard replacement, which is either expensive or a PITA, so patience is key.

    Kyle - Réponse

    It's very easy to do this step incorrectly. Make sure to use your fingernail and pry gently. This was the only step I felt didn't have a great explanation and damaging the part could easily happen.

    tgphotosales - Réponse

    I messed up and broke the connector. Here is part of a video showing in close-up how to remove it properly (different model Mac, same connector). Wish I had seen it before I tried it.

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qiBxhA29e...

    wizzart - Réponse

    Thank you for posting that video link. You saved me a lot of frustration!

    disneyfunteacher -

    Thanks for posting the video. Made it much clearer how to disconnect and save damage!

    Gareth Aschenbrenner -

    When they say "retaining flap", they are referring to a square plastic clip that hinges to the clip on the board. Starts at 7:15 in the video.

    kevicoll409 -

    Thanks a lot! Great video

    Sean Kandel -

    I needed that video. Thanks

    Justin Brisotto -

    Thank you to everyone who commented about this step. I did not have any trouble doing this but I could have. Also for all the excellent clarification especially the tips on reinserting the ribbon cable which I have yet to do after I hopefully fix the logic board

    Peter Newman - Réponse

    When they say "pull" the cable, they mean to "slide" it. Do not lift and pull.

    kevicoll409 - Réponse

    Attaching a small piece of tape and pulling parallel to motherboard did the trick.

    Brian Blair - Réponse

    I had trouble getting the cable out (let alone back in!) In the end, sliding a toothpick in behind the ribbon and gently pulling from both sides of the toothpick did the trick.

    Kal - Réponse

    On reassembly, I realise why it was so hard to get out—I had not lifted the retaining flap, thinking they just meant the flap of tape. Not well illustrated in the photo. The retaining flap is the long bit of plastic opposite the ribbon (closer to the fans).

    Kal - Réponse

    I acquired a macbook pro with a cut trackpad wire and no battery. In looking at this layout my concern is… what if the connection is pulled from the hinge and the hinge to hold it into place is completely missing?

    Anthony Eliseo - Réponse

    The most difficult part was putting it back in. I read the comments and I used a piece of tape to help push it back in. Make sure it’s all the way in or else you wont be able to turn your mac on. About a hairline of the grooves were

    Cristina - Réponse

    The comment Kal left about lifting the retaining flap is key during reassembly!

    I, too, totally missed that there is a plastic “bar” covering the end of the pins. Without that lifted up, it’s %#*@ near impossible to push the connector in since the flap/bar is putting pressure downwards.

    With the retaining flap down, it comes out without too much effort. But putting it back in is a whole different story. Be sure to lift it up!

    Justin Blecher - Réponse

    For reinserting, just be patient, lining up the ribbon, keeping a good hold on the tab, and applying even pressure along the ribbon, slowly, firmly reinserting. If the power button doesn’t work when you put everything back together, you will know the ribbon needs better connection. I promise you can do it!

    hyde244 - Réponse

  12. Avec l'extrémité plate d'une spatule, soulevez le connecteur du voyant de la batterie pour le débrancher de sa prise sur la carte mère.
    • Avec l'extrémité plate d'une spatule, soulevez le connecteur du voyant de la batterie pour le débrancher de sa prise sur la carte mère.

  13. Saisissez la languette en plastique fixée au dispositif de verrouillage du câble de données de l'écran et pivotez-la vers le côté DC-In (prise d'alimentation) de l'ordinateur. Tirez le câble de données de l'écran tout droit hors de sa prise sur la carte mère.
    • Saisissez la languette en plastique fixée au dispositif de verrouillage du câble de données de l'écran et pivotez-la vers le côté DC-In (prise d'alimentation) de l'ordinateur.

    • Tirez le câble de données de l'écran tout droit hors de sa prise sur la carte mère.

    • Ne soulevez pas le câble de données de l'écran, car sa prise est très fragile. Tirez sur le câble parallèlement à la surface de la carte mère.

    The metallic flap controlled by the plastic handle looks like it could easily break... a safer route is to grab the shielded cable after rotating the metal flap out of socket and gently pry it out of the socket by applying force parallel to the logic board. It will probably take a few minutes but you could save yourself some gray hairs.

    This is the hardest step IMO

    brbulic - Réponse

    Indeed this s the hardest step.its not clear from the instruction that there are two elements to this component. The connector and also a metal retaining clip that needs to be rotated off the connector first.

    mail - Réponse

    this was the hardest part of the dismantling for me. it's not super obvious in the pictures that there is a hinge and the metal piece, attached with tape, swings over and towards the DC-in.

    shmianco - Réponse

    I found it easiest to grab the connector where the hinged metal piece connected to the body.

    Replacing this connector was a bit fiddly, as you have to make sure it's lined up exactly before pushing it in, and because pushing it in requires a bit of force.

    Kyle - Réponse

    "Pull the cable straight" means to slide the connector out, do not lift and pull. Also, check for a square locking clip attached to the plug, if it won't come out.

    kevicoll409 - Réponse

    I really advise you to remove the cable retainer (one 8.6 phillips, you can see a photo in the display replacement tutorial) BEFORE unplugging the cable, to have more freedom of movement (to plug it in back it's even more important). Those are REALLY flimsy (i just broke one without being brutal and believe me you don't want to change it).

    Bonachera - Réponse

    I found it helpful to remove the bracket for the display cable to allow more movement of the cable when attempting to reassemble

    Justin Brisotto - Réponse

    Really great site!! replaced a LB in an mid 2010 MBP with kernal panic crash. Fixed! No issues with detailed procedure and comments. So I'll add one for this step. This was the simplest step really. Additional clues. (Wish I could post a pix). Look at the gold conn in the pix above. Note that the cable mates with the conn with the 2 tabs each side showing full insertion. The silver retainer pops up, bar away from the cable. Using my custom tool, a small screw driver, filed really small as I don't have a #000 Phillips, release the retainer, then carefully wedge open the tab on each side, inserting your "tool" in the slot. Neatly and slowly, the conn comes apart. Putting it back together, once the conn is alligned, just push alternately on each tab. Doesn't take much effort, better that pushing on the cable. I also appreciate the comment that removing the clamp, both clamps with one screw actually, makes this easier.

    Bruce Rayner - Réponse

    This is indeed a tricky step. First time, after following all the steps and reassembling I had no screen, which freaked me out. Luckily, another go at the connector did the trick and now I’m a happy owner of a macbook with a new trackpad. Thanks!

    Balazs Gobel - Réponse

    This step is really unclear! After grabbing what I thought was the “plastic pull tab” and having it come off in my hand, I was clueless about how to proceed. After puzzling over it for about 15 minutes, I saw the actual “plastic pull tab”, which was against the mother board near the fan. Pulling this upward unlocked the metal hinge and everything else was obvious after that.

    xtophr - Réponse

    I agree, this step was unclear. Part of the problem may be variations between logic boards. Mine did not look like the one pictured here. Mine has a tab lying flat against the logic board, as also described by xtophr. If this describes yours, check out [|this video] https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=-IE3WNOsrZ... (around 40 seconds in) to see exactly how it comes out. You lift the locking clip up by the plastic tab, then (with a little bit of downward pressure on the cable) slide it out towards the nearest corner of the machine.

    Kal - Réponse

    Wow Thansks for the video link. That definetly helped out to understand how this part actually moves. It is pretty easy after this explanation

    Carlos Anriquez -

  14. Avec la pointe d'une spatule, ouvrez le clapet de retenue de la prise ZIF de la nappe du rétro-éclairage du clavier. Assurez-vous de faire levier sur le clapet de retenue rabattu et non pas sur la prise elle-même.
    • Avec la pointe d'une spatule, ouvrez le clapet de retenue de la prise ZIF de la nappe du rétro-éclairage du clavier.

    • Assurez-vous de faire levier sur le clapet de retenue rabattu et non pas sur la prise elle-même.

    • Tirez la nappe du rétro-éclairage du clavier hors de sa prise.

    Connector slides out, do not lift and pull.

    kevicoll409 - Réponse

    any replacement parts available for this? I pulled up instead of sliding cable :(

    Allen Jenkins - Réponse

    This step would benefit from a macro view of hinged retaining flap and clarification. The instruction about flipping up the hinged retaining flap is misleading people into trying to flip out the ribbon.

    Frank Wilson - Réponse

  15. Dévissez les neuf vis suivantes :
    • Dévissez les neuf vis suivantes :

    • Sept vis Torx T6 de 3,4 mm (3,1 mm) sur la carte mère

    • Deux vis Torx T6 de 8 mm sur la carte de raccordement MagSafe (DC-In)

    Remove T6 (smaller) screws first, that was the last screwdriver that you used (for smooth workflow).

    kevicoll409 - Réponse

    Getting the DC board back in required a non-trivial amount of force to get it into position and lined up with the screw holes. It seemed to want to sit away further from it’s hole in the external case than it had to be to line up. I eventually got it in by leaving the main logic board out of it’s final position (but with the cable connected), which allowed me to get the leverage to push the DC board in so it would line up and be screwed in. Once it was in, I then positioned the main logic board and screwed it in.

    Andrew Wharton - Réponse

  16. Saisissez l'ensemble carte mère du côté gauche et retirez-le soigneusement du boîtier supérieur en veillant à ce que la nappe du lecteur optique et les ports I/O ne restent pas accrochés. Si nécessaire, séparez le microphone du boîtier supérieur avec l'extrémité plate d'une spatule. Écartez le bord des ports I/O de la carte mère et le bord du boîtier supérieur, puis retirez l'ensemble carte mère.
    • Saisissez l'ensemble carte mère du côté gauche et retirez-le soigneusement du boîtier supérieur en veillant à ce que la nappe du lecteur optique et les ports I/O ne restent pas accrochés.

    • Si nécessaire, séparez le microphone du boîtier supérieur avec l'extrémité plate d'une spatule.

    • Écartez le bord des ports I/O de la carte mère et le bord du boîtier supérieur, puis retirez l'ensemble carte mère.

    I had a little difficulty pulling the motherboard before the battery. I'm not sure why you would want to do it in the order listed here, but doing steps 23 and 24 first helped the board come out easier.

    maccentric - Réponse

    The thing that caught me on this step was that, at least on mine, the speaker box was glued/taped to the case, and so I got rather nervous trying to remove the logic board as it wouldn't move until said adhesive was pried apart. Thank goodness I knew the difference between the sounds of "board breaking" and "adhesive separating", but this step was still rather harrowing for me.

    Joseph Sikorski - Réponse

    The microphone cable was easy to pry off the logic board for disassembly. For re-assembly, I was having a heck of a time getting the connector to connect to the logic board. There just isn't enough room to get your hands and tools in there and still see what you're doing (unless you're a dentist and you're used to that kind of thing). Anyway, I finally got brave and pulled the round, rubberized microphone from the case. I connected the short cable to the logic board, set the microphone in the made-for-the-microphone housing on the logic board, hoping it would stick itself back to the case once the logic board was in position, and I was back in business. In this case, simply stating "reverse these steps for reassembly" wasn't very forthcoming.

    robk64 - Réponse

    Pulling the microphone off the case is key to reassembling. Place the mic back into the cut-away in the speaker housing and plug the connection into the backside of the logic board

    Justin Brisotto -

    thx graciaaaas :)

    driveremule -

    When I did this step the microphone was REALLY STUCK to the upper case, it actually stayed stuck to it and disconnect "itself" from the mother board while I was lifting up everything.

    Finally, there was no damage : I separated the microphone from the upper case while reassembling, then connected it back to the mother board and put it on its housing.

    Greg - Réponse

    Count the number of connectors as you remove the board, so that when you put it back one does not get lost under the board and you can't figure out why it won't go in. You should do this.

    kevicoll409 - Réponse

    If you laptop was getting hot when charging then be extra careful in this step because the foam pad under the logic board my have started to fuse to the casing. If the pad seems stuck then use a knife to gently pry it up.

    Jereme Shaver - Réponse

    I wish I'd read the comment on the items being stuck to the surface below

    Mazo - Réponse

    I have the same case with Joseph Sikorski - it's hard to pull out the mother board because the speaker is glued that I thought their are remaining screws that hook in to it. Better use flat spudger to pry the right side that is stuck when you pull the left upward first.

    Auldz Buss - Réponse

    Repairing a friend’s laptop… I wonder if the “glue” between the speaker and case is actually juice or soda, lol

    Sarah Ybarra - Réponse

    This part was highly stressful. The microphone/left speaker assembly are fused to the underside of the logic board. As you are facing the project according to the layout in these photos, the mike assembly is on the right side of the logic board, towards the top end. It is fused to the logic board but it also has adhesive sticking it to the upper case. As you lift, you have to insert a long spudger flat end down into that corner and move it back and forth between the mike assembly and the upper case, and it will release. Be very patient, focused, and slow. The spare part I bought from iFixIt had an extra speaker there in case I messed up, but I did not need it.

    jruedas - Réponse

    Hallelujah! There is a God!…Been sitting here for the past 2 hours, eyeballing the rubber whatever it is ”My New Moto”..When I’m stuck…”READ THE COMMENTS!…Thanks to all of you!!!!

    taleahebey - Réponse

    For reinserting the logic board, it helps to have a second person helping hold connection points to the side so you do not accidentally lay the logic board on top. Just go slowly, being mindful of all connections. (best to start by properly seating the DC power unit in the upper right corner)

    hyde244 - Réponse

Conclusion

Pour réassembler votre appareil, suivez ces instructions dans l'ordre inverse.

Une autre personne a terminé cette réparation.

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Should a person be using an ESD wristband or anti-static mat when doing this? I didn’t use one and now I’m worried.

Nick Doe - Réponse

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