Introduction
Ce tutoriel vous montrera comment retirer les cartes mères afin d'accéder aux boutons et aux gâchettes.
Ce dont vous avez besoin
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Saisissez fermement la manette pour démonter les poignées latérales. Introduisez une spatule dans la jointure des coques frontale et des poignées.
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Faites levier pour soulever et éloignez la coque latérale de la coque frontale avec un mouvement de va-et-vient. Faites ceci tout le long de la jointure de la coque latérale.
One you take it off, is it possible to click it back in?
As long as you don’t exceed the couple tons you need to take it off you should be able to put it back.
Brandon -
I don’t have a squdger
getting those handles back on seems impossible, they just dont fit as well, a gap remains even after snapping into place.
Dont think ill be doing this in the future
edit: wiggled the bo9ttom middlewith the handles off and somethign finally “clicked” into place for that extra 1/4 mm for the down arrow on my D-Pad to click back up into place!.
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Avec un tournevis, faites un trou exactement au milieu du label.
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Dévissez les 5 vis de 10 mm à l'arrière de la manette avec un tournevis Security Torx T8.
It's a t8 or t9 security bit btw, I got the top two out with a regular T8, but the bottom two and middle needed a T9 Security bit.
All five faceplate/backplate screws in the controller I disassembled were T8 security fasteners.
The T8 is only good for the middle screw on my One S controller. The others require something bigger
These requires SECURITY Torx bits (they have a cannulated hole in the driver). I don't believe the iFixIt branded driver is cannulated but you can buy a set of bits from DeWalt DWAX200 which is overkill but has what you need.
The driver that iFixIt sells is cannulated.
where do you get this dumb ass screw driver
You can bypass it with a 1.5mm flathead.
thank you for this. worked for me
TR9. A $10 kit from Walmart has the bit/driver in it and extra goodies to make life simple.
As weird as it sounds, the top 2 came out for me with a flathead- but the bottom two and the middle one wont
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Dessoudez les joints soudés tout en maintenant les fils noir et rouge contre le haut de la carte mère.
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Dessoudez les fils noir et gris fixés à la partie supérieure de la carte mère.
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Retirez les moteurs vibreurs et mettez-les de côté.
Steps 6-8 aren't completely necessary, and are very risky if you aren't good at soldering. It would seem the only reason to remove the motherboard and mess with all this soldering is just so you can reach both screws on the trigger in step 10. However, you can reach them already with a small-bodied screwdriver. Although you might have to rest the screwdriver on the black square processor to reach the bottom screw, it shouldn't damage the processor or motherboard to jimmy that screw out.
like mentioned by ‘Robert Rapier’ you can skip the de-soldering in most cases,
for example cleaning or changing the buttons is doable, but the grey and black wires are pretty short
and wired through the inner case so it can get a bit fiddly and you have to be careful not to damage them in the process.
If you have a soldering station around i would still recommend using it.
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Dévissez les 2 vis T6 de 7 mm situées près des emplacements des moteurs vibreurs.
Are these just T6 screws or Torx security T6 that is cannulated?
The outer screws are security screws. The ones on the system boards are Torx.
Rongwey -
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Tenez fermement les côtés de la carte mère à mi-longueur.
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Soulevez-la tout en la faisant légèrement osciller d'avant en arrière.
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Retirez le ruban adhésif jaune maintenant les fils en place sur le devant de la manette.
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Retirez les six vis Torx T6 situées sur la carte mère inférieure.
Where can I find the connectors at for the motherboard??
This guide completely skips the part about removing the trigger buttons. There are 2 screws per trigger that need to be removed so there are actually 10 T6 screws to remove.
There’s also 2 small rumble packs under the trigger buttons that no one mentioned. Someone got lazy when writing this step.
I didn't need to remove them. Leave the triggers on and saved some effort
Hey @jasonasnes good catch! It looks like maybe they forgot to add the trigger/trigger rumble motor prerequisite, so I went ahead and added that in there. That guide makes no mention of how the rumble motors are attached, but I think they’re soldered to the motherboard, so I added a note to desolder those wires prior to removal. I think you could probably also just desolder those wires and leave the triggers in place when removing the motherboard, but I’m not certain! Hope that helps!
@sam I was able to complete this with the missing information but thank you for updating it for those to come in the future. Minus these couple of discrepancies and it’s a great guide. Yes, all 4 of the rumble motors are soldered onto the upper motherboard. Step 6 actually highlights this with the exception of mentioning the 2 small rumble motors in the triggers. You bring up a good point, it might be possible to leave the triggers in place during this process. I used this guide as a teardown instead of as a replacement so I could refurbish the plastic shell and clean the interior of my day one controller so I completely stripped mine. However, I believe that the triggers could remain in place if your goal is to get to the lower motherboard.
You can lift off the top motherboard without desoldering the black/red wires to the large rumble motors, just be careful because the wires are delicate enough that you can break them off at the solder joint. It’s not a huge deal if you do, because they’re long enough that you can strip the ends and have plenty of room to resolder.
You can even very carefully remove the lower motherboard without desoldering the black/gray wires, and without removing the trigger assemblies, but there’s almost no room to work in there if you choose to go this route, because the wires will leave you only at most an inch of space to get in there under the lower motherboard. Also, leaving the trigger assemblies in place makes it very difficult to get the lower motherboard back into place without pinching or moving the conductive rubber button pad.
It's cumbersome but avoids soldering which I'm not experienced with and worked to replace the button membrane for me
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Retirez les butées en les soulevant des pattes qui les maintiennent à l'aide d'une spatule (spudger). Elles sont situées sur l'avant et à l'arrière de la manette.
At some point I had 2 little white pieces come out and I didnt see them till the very end. Does anyone know where these are spossed to go? They kinda look looe shims? Thank you.
They go behind the trigger buttons on the board against the metal. Narrow side towards the button.
Rongwey -
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Retirez la pièce entourant le bouton home de ses pattes de maintien.
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Faites levier de l'autre côté, en posant une spatule sur les broches.
2 things missing in this step:
1) You will have to press down on the power button in order to release the plastic retaining piece.
2) The button that syncs the controller to the system completely separates from the plastic frame. If you're not careful you could lose the thing.
Thanks NavyVet2015!
The sync button fell out on me and I was pondering what it was for a while.
Nothing is holding that little guy in so watch it!
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Pour rassembler votre appareil, suivez les instructions dans le sens inverse.
Pour rassembler votre appareil, suivez les instructions dans le sens inverse.
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Équipe
Cal Poly, Team 20-15, Maness Winter 2015 Membre de l'équipe Cal Poly, Team 20-15, Maness Winter 2015
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11 commentaires
Is de-soldering optional?
Considering the placement of wires attached by solder on both sides of the top board, it would be quite difficult to reach anything beneath it otherwise. I suppose it depends on what you're trying to achieve.
In any case, you might as well try to move it without desoldering if desoldering is going to be an issue. Make sure not to pull hard, though.
Liam Gow -
I have a question... Will the motherboard you can get at the store here work it the newer controllers with built in headphone jack?
I would expect not, I'm afraid. The motherboards will probably have different circuitry, even if the shapes are the same, which they may not be.
Liam Gow -
The position/mounting of the LB and RB buttons on the motherboard piece between the day-one/sans-jack and the newer 3.5mm jack (non-Slim) boards are completely different.
The older revision motherboard has the mountings inverted (pointing downwards to the south end-headset attachment port- of the controller) compared to the newer ones.
The newer ones have the circuit with the bumper buttons mounted pointing to the north end toward the bumpers on the top of the controller.
Quick question. I was disassembling my controller to fix something and noticed that the piece labeled R91 (the little grey square in the bottom center of the motherboard) looked as if it had been chipped. The part that is chipped is half of the top flat part of the grey piece. What is the purpose of this piece and is it something that will stop my controller from working properly?
I know nothing about this kind of stuff, and it's only the second controller I have ever taken apart so I'm sorry if this is a dumb question.
Thanks in advance!!
My 3.5mm jack doesn’t work on my new Xbox one controller. I’m told it’s not even soldered in. How hard would it be to solder in place?
It depend on the size of the pins you a to sold it on , and the size of your soldering gun , but it’s pretty easy if you are a little experienced. But if it’s brand new , why don’t you send it back to the store ?
Please can someone help me tell me how to repair my Xbox one controller lt rt are not working. I cleaned the magnet and still is not working.
