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Introduction

Apprenez à mettre à niveau ou remplacer la mémoire de votre Mac mini 2018 avec ce tutoriel de remplacement de la RAM. Le Mac mini est compatible avec jusqu'à 64 Go de RAM, en combinant des modules de RAM DDR4-2666 SODIMM de 8 Go, 16 Go ou 32 Go.

Vidéo d'introduction

  1. Avant de commencer, éteignez et débranchez votre Mac mini.
    • Avant de commencer, éteignez et débranchez votre Mac mini.

    • Utilisez un outil d'ouverture pour soulever le couvercle inférieur du Mac mini vers le haut.

  2. Soulevez et retirez le couvercle inférieur. Pour ré-installer le couvercle:
    • Soulevez et retirez le couvercle inférieur.

    • Pour ré-installer le couvercle:

    • Alignez-le correctement de façon à ce que les mots "Mac mini" peuvent être lus quand les ports sont orientés vers vous.

    • Puis, appuyez sur le couvercle pour enclencher les trois clips cachés.

    • Retirez de la plaque d'antenne les six vis Torx inviolable TR6 aux longueurs suivantes :

    • Trois vis de 4,1 mm

    • Trois vis de 1,8 mm

    • Pendant cette réparation, gardez trace de chaque vis et assurez-vous de les revisser toutes exactement là où elles étaient pour éviter d’endommager votre Mac.

  3. Ne retirez pas complètement la plaque d'antenne. Elle est toujours connectée au Mac mini par un câble d'antenne. Les ports du Mac mini vous faisant face, retournez soigneusement la plaque d'antenne et faites-la glisser d'environ 2,5 centimètres vers la droite.
    • Ne retirez pas complètement la plaque d'antenne. Elle est toujours connectée au Mac mini par un câble d'antenne.

    • Les ports du Mac mini vous faisant face, retournez soigneusement la plaque d'antenne et faites-la glisser d'environ 2,5 centimètres vers la droite.

  4. Utilisez un tournevis Torx T6 pour retirer la vis de 2,8 mm qui fixe le câble d'antenne à la carte mère du Mac mini. Utilisez un tournevis Torx T6 pour retirer la vis de 2,8 mm qui fixe le câble d'antenne à la carte mère du Mac mini.
    • Utilisez un tournevis Torx T6 pour retirer la vis de 2,8 mm qui fixe le câble d'antenne à la carte mère du Mac mini.

  5. Le connecteur du câble d'antenne et sa prise sont fragiles. Utilisez la pointe d’une spatule ou une pincette fine pour retirer délicatement le connecteur du câble d’antenne tout droit vers le haut et le retirer de sa prise sur la carte mère. Pour reconnecter le câble, prenez une pincette pour l'aligner correctement avec sa prise sur la carte mère, puis appuyez tout droit vers le bas jusqu’à ce qu'il s'enclenche.
    • Le connecteur du câble d'antenne et sa prise sont fragiles.

    • Utilisez la pointe d’une spatule ou une pincette fine pour retirer délicatement le connecteur du câble d’antenne tout droit vers le haut et le retirer de sa prise sur la carte mère.

    • Pour reconnecter le câble, prenez une pincette pour l'aligner correctement avec sa prise sur la carte mère, puis appuyez tout droit vers le bas jusqu’à ce qu'il s'enclenche.

    • Si vous avez besoin que le câble ait plus de mou, vous pouvez le déclipser temporairement de la plaque d'antenne.

  6. Retirez la plaque d'antenne du Mac mini.
    • Retirez la plaque d'antenne du Mac mini.

  7. Utilisez un tournevis Torx T6 pour retirer les quatre vis de 7,2 mm qui maintiennent le ventilateur : Deux vis fixent le ventilateur à la carte mère
    • Utilisez un tournevis Torx T6 pour retirer les quatre vis de 7,2 mm qui maintiennent le ventilateur :

    • Deux vis fixent le ventilateur à la carte mère

    • Deux vis le fixent à la grille de ventilation

    • Des œillets en caoutchouc maintiennent les vis sur le ventilateur, de sorte qu'elles ne peuvent pas sortir complètement. Assurez-vous simplement qu'elles soient complètement desserrées.

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  9. N'essayez pas encore d'enlever complètement le ventilateur lors de cette étape. Soulevez-le pour accéder à la nappe qui est en dessous. Soulevez le ventilateur par son côté plat, là où il est en contact avec la grille de ventilation, en faisant attention à ne pas forcer sur la nappe du ventilateur qui se trouve en dessous.
    • N'essayez pas encore d'enlever complètement le ventilateur lors de cette étape. Soulevez-le pour accéder à la nappe qui est en dessous.

    • Soulevez le ventilateur par son côté plat, là où il est en contact avec la grille de ventilation, en faisant attention à ne pas forcer sur la nappe du ventilateur qui se trouve en dessous.

  10. Saisissez la nappe du ventilateur par les six fils et soulevez-la doucement pour la déconnecter de la carte mère. Saisissez la nappe du ventilateur par les six fils et soulevez-la doucement pour la déconnecter de la carte mère.
    • Saisissez la nappe du ventilateur par les six fils et soulevez-la doucement pour la déconnecter de la carte mère.

    Be super careful here, socket on board can easily break and end up coming-off with the fan’s cable.

    jimthing - Réponse

  11. Retirez le ventilateur.
    • Retirez le ventilateur.

  12. Saisissez le câble du bloc d'alimentation et tirez dessus pour le déconnecter de la carte mère. Si nécessaire, vous pouvez le remuer pour avoir plus de mou.
    • Saisissez le câble du bloc d'alimentation et tirez dessus pour le déconnecter de la carte mère. Si nécessaire, vous pouvez le remuer pour avoir plus de mou.

    Loosen the side nearest outer case first

    dermoid777 - Réponse

  13. Soulevez le connecteur du voyant LED tout droit vers le haut pour le déconnecter de sa prise sur la carte mère. Soulevez le connecteur du voyant LED tout droit vers le haut pour le déconnecter de sa prise sur la carte mère.
    • Soulevez le connecteur du voyant LED tout droit vers le haut pour le déconnecter de sa prise sur la carte mère.

    So I followed the picture above, but lifting straight up on it ended up breaking off the entire component from the board…

    Is there a way to fix this? It doesn’t look like the computer turns on without this connection made

    Kevin Moran - Réponse

    @ksmoran Yes, it can be fixed. See Maarten’s comments on the RAM guide. That connector is only for the LED indicator light on the front, so your Mac mini should still turn on and work fine. If it’s not turning on, there’s some other problem.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    I have also broken the led connection off the logic board. Is there another way to reattach it, other than finding someone to solder it?

    Steve Kenyon - Réponse

    The video at the top of the page (timestamp: 2:30) does a much better job showing how to do this. They didn’t use any tools. Simply use your fingers to pull the wires straight up from the connector. Don’t try touching the actual components, since they’re so fragile. The wires are the better bet.

    Philip Stancil - Réponse

    I found it easy to get the corner of a plastic spudger underneath the wires as close to the plastic clip as you can get it, and gently prying up. Use the logic board as the base for prying. Didn’t take much force, and everything here is really delicate. I’d try a plastic spudger here first.

    Christopher Reynolds - Réponse

  14. Utilisez un tournevis Torx T10 pour retirer les deux vis de 7,5 mm qui maintiennent la carte mère. Utilisez un tournevis Torx T10 pour retirer les deux vis de 7,5 mm qui maintiennent la carte mère.
    • Utilisez un tournevis Torx T10 pour retirer les deux vis de 7,5 mm qui maintiennent la carte mère.

    These were very tight,

    plevin - Réponse

    Yes - Had to use a pliers to turn the T10 Screwdriver to get the first turn loosened!

    dermoid777 - Réponse

  15. Dans cette étape, vous allez pousser la carte mère hors des clips qui la fixent au châssis. Appuyez seulement où c'est indiqué, sinon vous risquez d'endommager les fragiles ailettes de refroidissement. Placez un pouce à chaque extrémité de la grille de ventilation, au-dessus des trous des vis du ventilateur. Appuyez fortement jusqu'à ce que la carte mère se détache et commence à glisser hors du Mac mini.
    • Dans cette étape, vous allez pousser la carte mère hors des clips qui la fixent au châssis. Appuyez seulement où c'est indiqué, sinon vous risquez d'endommager les fragiles ailettes de refroidissement.

    • Placez un pouce à chaque extrémité de la grille de ventilation, au-dessus des trous des vis du ventilateur.

    • Appuyez fortement jusqu'à ce que la carte mère se détache et commence à glisser hors du Mac mini.

    Okay - I used a lot of “might” to push on the ends of this heatsink to no avail. Literally, I was scared to break it - I could feel one side moving and the other not budging. I used a large flat-edge screwdriver vertically into the Mac Mini, prying lightly against the edge of the case hole and onto the back edge of one of the silver fan standoffs protruding from the motherboard. Very little leverage here caused the board to pop out past those tight clips. Phew!

    booster4075 - Réponse

    Agreed needed a lot of force, but came out as described just tense moment. Almost ready to try the pry method and then it popped free. Phew is right.

    plevin - Réponse

    It does take a lot of force. I found the best way to handle it is to put the two exhast screws back in and use two T6 screw drivers to push. Thats easier than using your big thumbs and keeps you from damaging the fins.

    Geoffrey McKee - Réponse

    Wow, great. Thanks for the comments above, and mine is also very difficult to push. I screwed back to two T6 screws and is still no luck. At the end, I push the two screws with a T6 screwdriver and bang, much much easier. Just my two cents. Good luck guys.

    Tso Dart G - Réponse

  16. Glisser la carte mère hors du boîtier. Au moment de réinstaller la carte mère, assurez-vous que le fin câble du voyant LED  est replié de côté pour éviter de l'endommager.
    • Glisser la carte mère hors du boîtier.

    • Au moment de réinstaller la carte mère, assurez-vous que le fin câble du voyant LED est replié de côté pour éviter de l'endommager.

    When sliding back INTO the case after you’ve replaced the RAM, be sure to keep an eye on the LED light indicator connector cable. It’s easy for the logic board to slide back in and cover up the cable, which risks breaking the plastic end piece.

    Philip Stancil - Réponse

    Tape the LED light indicator to the case to keep it out of way until reassemble.

    dermoid777 - Réponse

  17. Utilisez un tournevis Torx T5 pour retirer les quatre vis de 2,8 mm qui maintiennent la plaque de protection de la RAM.
    • Utilisez un tournevis Torx T5 pour retirer les quatre vis de 2,8 mm qui maintiennent la plaque de protection de la RAM.

  18. Soulevez la plaque de protection de la RAM et glissez-la hors de l'ensemble RAM.
    • Soulevez la plaque de protection de la RAM et glissez-la hors de l'ensemble RAM.

  19. Deux clips maintiennent chaque module de RAM en place, un de chaque côté. Avec vos doigts, écartez les clips du module de RAM. Une fois les clips écartés, les modules de RAM se soulèveront légèrement d'un côté.
    • Deux clips maintiennent chaque module de RAM en place, un de chaque côté. Avec vos doigts, écartez les clips du module de RAM.

    • Une fois les clips écartés, les modules de RAM se soulèveront légèrement d'un côté.

  20. Faites glisser chaque module de RAM hors de son emplacement pour le retirer.
    • Faites glisser chaque module de RAM hors de son emplacement pour le retirer.

    • Quand vous manipulez les modules de RAM, tenez-les seulement par les bords latéraux. Assurez-vous de ne pas toucher les points de contact dorés le long du bord inférieur.

  21. Pour installer de nouveaux modules de RAM : Assurez-vous que le module est orienté correctement et que l'encoche en bas est bien alignée, puis faites-le glisser sous le même angle que quand vous l'avez retiré. Appuyez dessus jusqu'à ce que les contacts dorés ne soient plus visibles. Répétez pour le second module.
    • Pour installer de nouveaux modules de RAM :

    • Assurez-vous que le module est orienté correctement et que l'encoche en bas est bien alignée, puis faites-le glisser sous le même angle que quand vous l'avez retiré. Appuyez dessus jusqu'à ce que les contacts dorés ne soient plus visibles.

    • Répétez pour le second module.

    If the rubber covers come off they are a pain to put back on - you have to slide the rubber into space between the RAM module and the retainer clips - this video explains it perfectly -

    https://eshop.macsales.com/installvideos...

    dermoid777 - Réponse

  22. Enfin, appuyez sur le bord supérieur de chaque module de RAM vers la carte mère pour l'insérer jusqu'à ce vous entendiez un "clic"  et que les clips s'enclenchent de chaque côté. Si les caoutchoucs de protection vous gêne, écartez-les d'une main et utilisez l'autre pour insérer les modules de RAM. Puis, lâchez les protections. Vérifiez les clips et assurez-vous que les deux modules sont stables.
    • Enfin, appuyez sur le bord supérieur de chaque module de RAM vers la carte mère pour l'insérer jusqu'à ce vous entendiez un "clic" et que les clips s'enclenchent de chaque côté.

    • Si les caoutchoucs de protection vous gêne, écartez-les d'une main et utilisez l'autre pour insérer les modules de RAM. Puis, lâchez les protections.

    • Vérifiez les clips et assurez-vous que les deux modules sont stables.

Conclusion

Pour ré-assembler votre appareil, suivez les étapes ci-dessus dans l'ordre inverse.

Apportez vos déchets électroniques à un recycleur R2 ou de déchets électroniques certifié.

La réparation ne s'est pas passée comme prévue ? Allez voir sur https://www.ifixit.com/Answers/Device/Ma... pour de l'aide.

142 autre(s) ont terminé cette réparation.

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Rod Bland

Membre depuis le 25/03/2013

2 331 Réputation

1 tutoriel rédigé

84 commentaires

Thank you so much! I’m curious about CPU. Is it possible to replace it?

cjoonh - Réponse

No, the CPU is soldered to the logic board.

Jon Anscher -

Looks like the SSD is replaceable as well. Any idea on what kind of standard it follows?

QiF - Réponse

looks like soldered to me. either way, with that T2 chip on board one shall not pass through…

Peter Marencik -

How many slots for ram rank have Mac mini? And the entry version (8Gb) how many rank have ? One of 8gb or two of4gb? Tank’s

tiffanycafenapoli - Réponse

There are two RAM slots.

If you order the Mac Mini with 8GB RAM, it will contain 2 x 4GB RAM cards.

Douglas Bailey -

what about the CPU??? Please explore more!!!

Peter Marencik - Réponse

Hi Peter,

the CPU is not socketed. Check out the teardown here.

Arthur Shi -

Can you put 2400Mhz RAM in the Mac Mini?

I ask because the MAC mini memory ram is rated for 2666mhz and I have ddr 4 2400mhz RAM laying around.

Nicholas Mohamed - Réponse

I’m curious to this as well, because performance-wise there’s not any noticable difference but there is a price difference.

Mikael D -

I had a pair of G.Skill F4-2400C16S-16GRS laying around as well and both went in to an i5 mini no problem. About this Mac reported that the new memory speed was 2400 .

Ben Marco -

Is it possible to have :

1x 4Go DDR4 Apple 2666Mhz

with

1x 16Go DDR4 Crucial 2666Mhz ?

jean - Réponse

Yes, you can mix and match the module sizes in just about any Mac, so you could even have 4GB +32GB

Rod Bland -

Rod, do you know if the performance is affected by different sized RAM? It may be too late for me now, but maybe I should have bought one 32GB module instead of two 16s.

Jon Anscher -

Although it is technically okay to mix ram sizes (if the mobo and BIOS allows it), there IS a performance penalty when not using matched pairs of memory. That is true for just about any computer (Windows PC or Mac); , it has to with interleaving and other factors. In some cases, even if both sticks are same RAM size but different makers or configurations, that can also cause a performance hit, hence why most recommend using matched pairs of SAME manufacturer / model. By configuration i mean a 4 GB chip may have a 4 x 1GB config., where as another 4GB chip from another maker may have a 2 x 2GB config or 8 x 512MB (or whatever, ) Macs have historically much tighter tolerances (ie. less forgiving) when it comes to memory vs say a garage mix and match PC build; I strongly suggest using matched pairs by same maker, and stick to reputable brands. there are a lot of gray market chips out there with very questionable tolerances; if the price SEEMS TOO GOOD, THERE IS A REASON.

Michael Chin -

The first video posted on Youtube said the mac didn’t recognize the replaced memory properly. He installed the DDR4 3000, but it just run at 2444. Do you guys tried other RAMs?

seawah.k - Réponse

So, upgrading the ram won’t brick the Mac mini?

tran269 - Réponse

No it will not brick the mac, worked like a charm with the Corsair 2x16GB from Amazon. Sorry IFIXIT.

Provided you take static precautions and use general care.

This tutorial is a great step by step. I used the IFIXIT TOOLKIT and the IFIXIT Magnetic Project Mat to complete the task. 30 minutes start to boot up. Save about 350 some odd dollars versus ordering it preconfigured from Apple, but to each their own.

Roger Alexander -

32GB RAM should meet my needs for a while, as it has for several years now. I read that the mini won’t be as fast with unbalanced RAM, so I ordered 2x16 instead of 1x32. That could have given me 36GB along with a 4GB from my 8GB mini order. 2x16Gb costs less than 1x32 so there’s a savings there, but I will ultimately have wasted money on the 16GB SODIMMs if I eventually need to upgrade to 64GB. Wasn’t an easy thing to decide on.

Lots of people will face this dilemma.

Johann Johannson - Réponse

As I wrote the previous post on the 8GB mini, the security bits for installing the RAM arrived. With 8 programs and several background processes running—the LG 4K monitor Newegg had on sale last week for $259 has 30 icons on its menu bar—the mini is still comfortably below its 8GB limit. With paging occurring only infrequently and at blazing-fast speeds, I’m beginning to wonder if I’ll ever feel a need to install more than 32GB RAM.

Now to get to work and put those tools to use. Thanks for the tips!

Johann Johannson - Réponse

Thanks so much for putting this guide together! Upgraded with 32GB of Crucial RAM. It works great, and I saved $240!

Jon Anscher - Réponse

Bricked! Mini will not turn on. Any ideas?

For the avoidance of doubt. I presume I did something wrong. Anyway, put factory ram back in, still doesn’t start.

spamsea - Réponse

Have you tried unplugging everything except a single monitor, keyboard, and mouse from the Mac Mini? I had some issues starting up the Mac Mini with a lot of peripherals plugged in. It seems to have resolved itself after it fully loads for the first time and all the updates hit. Although it does worry me a bit, long-term.

Jon Anscher -

That comment probably just saved Apple thousands of dollars lol. Hope you got it fixed, please keep us hesitants posted.

Radwan Kaloti -

I tried both removing all devices (headless) and just the basics. Is there anyway to tell if the power is plugged correctly to the logic board? I mean it looks right, just trying to think of things I could check. The only things I can think of are that the ram is somehow out of alignment in some micro way, (i tried new ram, old ram, wiggling in various directions etc) I didn’t put the power plug back on the logic board correctly or I somehow fried something..

spamsea -

One other thing you might try is powering it on in Recovery mode to confirm there is no software glitch. Have you posted this in the Answers community? There might be more technical folks there to try and help.

Jon Anscher -

Did you get it working spamsea?

Radwan Kaloti -

I had heard that it was necessary for Apple to run some sort of hardware test before new Apple products would be able to run ANY replacement parts. Could this be the reason it doesnt work? Now I’m nervous about trying to upgrade.

Ben DeJong -

Same-ish here. I swapped out the original ram for 32GB (2x16) from Crucial. Then the Mac mini won’t turn on again. I put the old ram back in and it turns on, but only recognizes one slot.

Jarrod -

Well, there is nothing for it, just gotta take it in to the Genius Bar. See if they can tell me what is wrong.

spamsea -

I’m bailing on the upgrade, it’s just not worth the potential hassle. And I thought about it, if ever I need to take it in to Apple for repairs during the apple care warranty, that’s opening and closing it 3 times, RAM in RAM out, might get away with it once, but opening it 3+ times ups the chances to break something.

Radwan Kaloti -

Fixed it.

Problem 1: The ram wasn’t seated properly. It clicks into place a few millimeters before it’s pushed down far enough. Push until the gold connectors are no longer visible at all. Mine seemed like it would break, but it didn’t.

Problem 2: This one was minor, but I had to hold the power button down for 5 or 10 seconds before it turned on. This isn’t usually the case, it’s only after replacing the ram.

Jarrod -

Way to go Jarrod! Thanks for the update. Please post another in a day or two as to how stable everything is. Thanks!

Mike Buettner -

Jarrod - are you still experiencing the power button long hold to start?

Mike Buettner -

Second mini. I followed the same steps, it all went fine. One difference is that on the second mini, I replaced the ram before turning it on for the first time.

spamsea -

This goes to my comment that Steps 19 - 22 and in Step 22 in the comment it says currently:

If the rubber guards interfere with the clips, spread the rubber guards away from the RAM with one hand and use the other to angle the RAM modules into place. Then, release the guards.

This should be replaced with - Remove the rubber grommets or RAM SHIELD FEET by sliding them in the same direction you slid the RAM SHIELD to remove it and then replace the ram normally. Replace the FEET and the Shield as described.

Roger Alexander -

Info: Mac Mini 2018 also works with DDR4 2400 Mhz

About this Mac: https://gyazo.com/b203d435cf809b2775abb7...

System Info: https://gyazo.com/21213acd745d5f2d6219c3...

Joerg Michael - Réponse

Looks like we have a wait a little while more before we proceed to change those RAMs. The worst fear is bricking the whole system.

Let’s wait for more updates from those who can’t turn on their systems after changing their RAMs.

truecolours1971 - Réponse

Plus, if the MM 2018 is able to run various task normally at 8GB of RAM, I don’t see myself upgrading the RAMs until the pricing are much lower. For now, 64GB is about $1,080 at OWC website which is ridiculously priced! Maybe when the MM is able to accept and run 128GB worth of RAM (day dreaming at the moment!), I will buy it! Will only purchase the 64GB RAM when it is less than $500 or less. My take for those who have not upgraded yet, use your MM for now and don’t think of upgrading your RAMs until much later. Upgrading to 32GB will see some improvement but why not wait a couple months and get the 64GB which will max out your system. MM 2018 is still relatively new and iFixit probably need to go through the whole system again to see and retest to make sure whatever we open, will not void out 1-3 years Apple Care Warranty plus brick the whole system.

truecolours1971 -

Yes, anxious to hear how upgraded Minis are working.

Mike Buettner - Réponse

What, no antistatic mat and bracelet. If the RAM modules are sensitive to static charges, you should use static protection gear. You can zap a memory chip and never even know you did it until you cannot boot or you get system crashes or other oddnesses.

jferris1119 - Réponse

Is there any chance to replace the SSD ?

wyattwong - Réponse

Can you use only one slot, e.g. 1x16GB and add another one later (even better 1x32 when those are out)?

beczka - Réponse

Thank you for your guide.Great work. I added 2x16GB Crucial and it’s working like a charm. One drawback … I killed the WLAN antenna socket. This one is very very fragile. While putting the cable back on the pin and pushing gently to lock it the whole socket came off. Good that I don’t need the WLAN module and maybe I’m able to buy a new socket somewhere sometimes and solder it back on place …

Markus Müller-Heidelberg - Réponse

Hello. Is it possible to run the Mac Mini 2018 with only one RAM module (leaving the second one empty)? If it is possible, is there a penalty in its performance?

Thanks you.

Adrian Alvarado - Réponse

This is the first ifixit repair guide I’ve ever followed. The 3 steps I was most worried about...Step 6: antenna cable connector removal. Step 10: fan cable removal. Step 13: LED indicator light cable removal...weren't an issue at all. In fact the only step I had an issue with was Step 15 (pushing the logic board free) and that's because I wasn't pushing hard enough. Overall, a little scary to crack open something brand new that's $1k but I was able to pull it off without issue. (thankfully). Now this Mac mini is running with 32GB + 3 monitors and should last me the next 4 years till Apple updates it again.

Craig Miller - Réponse

My upgrade went pretty much okay. Easier than I thought. Antenna wire snapped right back on, motherboard slid out without much effort and memory modules were easy to remove and seat. Only problem I had was a stripped head on a fan Torx T6 screw on reassembly. I must not have had the driver seated into the screw correctly. Screw is tight so all okay for now. Booted up and shows the 32GB of RAM. Need to find a new screw and hope the old one comes out. I know I didn’t crank it down. Any idea where to find that screw?

Mike Buettner - Réponse

Yes that angle of attack should probably be emphasized in detail in Step 8 - good point!

I was like WHAT? Thankfully I have my cheater glasses (old eyes) and I was able to see the angle of attack clearly under magnification.

Roger Alexander -

Step 8 - make it more clear the ‘rubber grommeted’ screws are ‘captive screws’ and they are specifically the yellow screws holing the front of the air box to the heat sink - not the red screws which are removed completely during this process.

Step 15 - for me it was necessary to use the blue pry tools employed in the opening of the bottom cover to assist in ‘freeing’ the main board from the housing - probably not everyone will encounter this but after some serious pushing on the heat sink without result, I fell back to this step. I pushed and the left side budged, but only slightly. So I started on that edge at the ‘case / port mounts of the mainboard seal’ with the blue pry tools and boom it popped free and I was able to complete the step as described to free the mainboard completely from the case…..

Roger Alexander - Réponse

Step 19 - 22 I think it should be made clear that there are rubber grommets that serve at the ram shield ‘feet’ and they can be remove by sliding them in the same direction you slid the Ram shield to remove it. then you can replace the ram - replace the ‘rubber feet’ and then the Ram Shield. I preferred this method to ‘fumbling around that rubber to access the clips to free the ram. This step should definitely be included.

Great tutorial - easy to follow - thanks man!

Roger Alexander - Réponse

Hi Rod,

On Step 3 it says to “Remove six TR6 Torx security screws…of the following lengths: Three 4.1 mm screws; Three 1.8 mm screws”

Is this a typo? How can it be that one TR6 screwdriver can remove two different sizes of screws/

Thank you for your help.

Ken Klippenstein - Réponse

Ken,

It is not a typo the screws are different sizes but require the same T6 Torx to remove them. The Larger serve as the mount points for the rubber case bottom and are in fact what you used the pry tool in steps 1 and 2 to remove the bottom cover ‘from’.

Hope this helps.

Roger

Roger Alexander -

TR6 is the head size, which is shared by both screws. The millimeter measurements are the lengths of the screws from head to the bottom of the shaft, not across the width of the head.

Sam Goldheart -

This guide is excellent. I would have been stuck at removing the logic board without it! Sure glad I bought the iFixit toolkit on Black Friday. What I installed was Ballistix Sport DDR4-2666 (2x16GB). But Mac reports it is running at 2400MHz, not 2666. Otherwise it is working great. Has anyone been able to correct RAM speeds? On a PC I’d fiddle with BIOS settings and kick in the XMP profile, but is there anything I can do on a Mac?

chris - Réponse

Unfortunately I &&^&@@ up on step 13.

I was afraid to pull on the LED wire and had no grip on the plug. The I tried to wedge with a knife from below and the whole socket including the plug came loose from the board.

I know now this was stupid! Probably I should have lifted on the wire itself, right?

Do you think the tiny connections from the socket can be soldered again by somebody more professional?

Maarten - Réponse

@sikko Highly likely it can be fixed by somebody with the right skills and soldering rig. Fortunately I believe that socket is only for the little indicator LED on the front, so it’s likely not a mission-critical item. You can probably put it back together and ignore it. If I could pick one thing to break, that would be it ;)

Jeff Suovanen -

@sikko Highly likely it can be fixed by somebody with the right skills and soldering rig. Fortunately I believe that socket is only for the little indicator LED on the front, so it’s likely not a mission-critical item. You can probably put it back together and ignore it. If I could pick one thing to break, that would be it ;)

Jeff Suovanen - 2 hours ago

Yes Jeff, I put the mini together yesterday and found that everything was working okay (with 32 GB of RAM) except for the LED light. Today I went to an electronics repair guy, who soldered the socket back in place. That made me happy again. He was professional and really nice guy and did not even charge me anything for this soldering of the LED socket! So fortunately all is fine again.

I noticed now there is a warning at Step 13. Very good! I don’t know if that warning was there yesterday; at least yesterday I did not notice it.

Maarten - Réponse

Excellent description! And with the tools from iFixit it was easy to upgrade my MacMini 2018 to 32GB RAM. Thanks a lot.

heiko.morgen - Réponse

Completed upgrade this evening.  Great instructions!!!

John Clowes - Réponse

Thanks for the great guide! Just did it in approx. 25 minutes and I'm now running 20GB memory. Everything is running smooth. I'll maybe update the other 4GB chip some time down the road when I have the extra $$.

Erik - Réponse

Thank you Rod! Did a successful memory upgrade from 8Gb to 32Gb with this step-by-step guide!

Martijn Smulders - Réponse

Thanks! I have 32gb now and saved a lot of $$$

Sergey - Réponse

Excellent guide!

ironically I found the 2018 model much easier to breakdown than previous models.

Frank Phillips - Réponse

One thing to think about regarding memory and the fixed internal storage. 8GB while sufficient for most light duty users still causes some swap activity to write back to the main storage. While SSD/Flash based storage life-cycle has proven to be extremely durable, continuous swap activity does consume some of the finite write cycles for the chips. With older/slower physical drives this was usually an after-thought.

Additionally, storage failure in any way now requires logic board replacement versus a separate drive swap. Lastly, if failure does occur, what mitigating factors does Apple (or any authorized service agency) take to ensure personal/private data is completely destroyed? Non-fixed drives don’t have this problem - replace the defective drive and load back up, assuming the consumer retains the original drive.

scdude - Réponse

Hi all, does anyone know the details of the little two pin led connector? Whilst removing it during a RAM upgrade one of the wires pulled through the plastic housing of the connector. The board pins are ok just the housing of the connector and I’d like to replace it. Thanks.

Simon Smith - Réponse

Thank you, Rod!

Excellent step by step tutorial, with very clear and detailed pictures. Also, great tips and warnings. I took it slowly and completed it successfully within the hour (including dropping the antenna screw in the mac mini - yes, it rolled away under some component).

Thank you so much!

Dennis - Réponse

Thanks! A very precise and easy to follow guide. Some observations:

I had purchased two 16 GB Crucial RAM modules despite the latency number (CL19) which I suspect does not matter in practice. They fit very well - I had no trouble with the fit being too tight. However, like another comment noted, it seemed easier to just slide the rubber guards off and then back on after the new modules are in place.

The hardest part was plugging the antenna cable back in. It is simply hard to see when it is in the right place and you can safely push down.

Logic board screws were annoyingly tight.

The ifixit toolkit was extremely helpful.

J. Andreas Baerentzen - Réponse

One general comment, when removing the Wifi antennae connector, be very careful when prying it up. Mine somehow became damaged upon removal and will not reinstall. Luckily, I am close enough to my router that it doesn’t affect performance. Signal strength is still 4 full bars and speedtest.net shows no loss in speed. Very lucky in my case.

Warren McBride - Réponse

Success! This guide was great together with the ifixit pro kit. Thank you!

Nikolai van der Burg - Réponse

Thank you iFixit for the kit, the Crucial memory modules, and the instructions.

My remarks, repeated in other comments:

- obviously be very very careful with the antenna and the led connector, they are really tiny.

- the board screws are really tight. Had to use some pliers with the torx piece because the iFixit plastic handle did not seem strong enough for the required force. Or better, I had no force to unscrew them using the kit.

- make sure the RAM is fully plugged in. If you can see the coper from the connectors, they’re not well plugged. The machine won’t start if they’re not plugged, not even turn the led on.

- even with the RAM well plugged, the trick to press power for five seconds is needed. Five despairing seconds waiting for the led to come on.

Works perfectly. The kit is perfect. The memories are great. The Mac mini process is quite easy and well designed. I’d say a low end of the moderate.

bruno.rodrigues - Réponse

Hi. Can anyone confirm if this is true ? ( Published 2019.03.24 on the youtube video)The latest Mac mini 2018 builds are no longer user upgradeable – you need to take your Mac mini back to your local Apple Store to have them upgrade it for you. They've changed all the screws to stop you accessing the internals. They look like proprietary T3/4 security screws

Manuel N - Réponse

Hi @manuelnv This guide proves that isn’t true, the device can be opened, it does require a T6 security screwdriver as well as T5 and T10, but those driver are not very uncommon. Apple wouldn’t call this computer user-serviceable, but read the comments here, many people have done this successfully =)

Sam Goldheart -

Just installed the 32GB memory kit on brand new Mac Mini. Worked no problem, the instructions were super clear! Thanks iFixit!!!

Cyrille Taillandier - Réponse

Good guide! Can the ram be replaced using only one 32gb chip, then adding a second 32gb later?

Ian gilmartin - Réponse

So I did break the LED indicator light off of the board. Any suggestions? Is that worth micro-soldering back on, or is it just that the light doesn’t work?

Todd Peperkorn - Réponse

Just upgraded to 1 x Crucial CT2K16G4SFD8266 32GB (16GB x2) bought from Amazon.de for some 196€ (220$). Done within 15mins, thanks IFIXIT for a superb guide! The only tricky part was a first boot, I had to go via Recovery Mode (Command+R during startup), restart, Safe Mode (Shift during startup), another bounce and voilà, the system is up and running again reporting 32GB of memory :) So thanks IFIXIT for saving me almost 400$!

George Groats - Réponse

Thanks a lot. Is it possible to change the ssd?

uwemoebus - Réponse

Thank you - your guide worked like a charm - I unboxed and upgraded the memory before turning it on - from 8 to 32 GB.

I also read all the comments and found them most useful in identifying the risky/tricky steps in the process - the cable connections that required extra attention - correctly seating the memory - etc.

Bryan Palmer - Réponse

Worked perfectly Rod. Thanks for being detailed.

Brian Kidd - Réponse

Steps 19 - 22 should be revisited to include the proper removal/replacement of the RAM Shield FEET, rubber grommets, Reading the comments it seems the major issues - DOA issues all revolve around this issue.

Roger Alexander - Réponse

be careful when screwing in the screw for securing the antenna cable, I managed to break the top off.

Mats Andreas Tønnesland - Réponse

Pretty straight forward and save me a few hundred bucks! Thanks!

stevelamas - Réponse

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