Introduction
Utilisez ce tutoriel pour remplacer la partie électronique du bouton de marche et les capteurs de luminosité ambiante et de proximité, qui y sont reliés.
Ce dont vous avez besoin
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Sur le boîtier arrière de votre iPhone, vous trouverez deux vis cruciformes #000 ou des vis "Pentalobe" 5 points Apple. Vérifiez de quelles vis il s'agit et prévoyez un tournevis adapté pour les enlever.
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Retirez les deux vis de 3,6 mm Pentalobe ou cruciformes #000 près du connecteur de dock.
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Poussez la vitre arrière vers le haut de l'iPhone.
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Enlevez l'unique vis cruciforme de 1,5 mm qui attache le connecteur de la batterie à la carte mère (s'il y en a une).
you do not need to take the battery out as chuck said so you dont run the risk of braking the battery connector socket from the logic board
Won't you need the battery removed to access the large-headed screws on the side which hold the front display?
Unfortunately the battery screw was already stripped probably from original assembly. We used a pair of nail clippers as pliers to grab a hold of the screw by the edges to turn it. If it hadn't have been for the stripped screw it would have taken us about 10 minutes, as it was it took us 30-40 minutes if you count searching for solutions for removing the stripped screw.
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A l'aide d'un outil en plastique, faites délicatement levier pour soulever le connecteur de la batterie hors de son emplacement sur la carte mère.
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Retirez le cache métallique qui couvre le connecteur de l'antenne.
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Tirez sur la languette en plastique transparent pour décoller la batterie de l'adhésif qui l'attache à l'iPhone.
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Retirez la batterie.
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Si votre batterie de rechange a été livré dans un enveloppe en plastique, retirez celle-ci en la tirant dans la direction opposée de la nappe.
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Nettoyez les point s de contact métal-sur-métal avec un nettoyeur dégraissant avant le remontage. Le sébum de vos doigts peu causer des problèmes d'interférence sans fil.
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Effectuez une réinitialisation matérielle (Hard Reset) après le remontage. Cela peut résoudre des problèmes.
Note that the pull tab is not actually attached to the battery. It is attached to the iPhone chassis, and is only used to separate the battery from the adhesive. (Don't expect it to come out with the battery!)
Also, the adhesive is VERY strong. I had to use my plastic opening tool to assist in prying the battery loose. This is probably the most nerve-wracking part of the job.
It is much easier to slightly WARM the battery with a HAIRDRYER not a HEAT GUN to soften the adhesive. DO NOT GET BATTERY HOT AND DO NOT USE HEAT GUN
Joe -
I just did this today. Everything was as scripted. Mine had lots of adhesive and had to use plastic spudger to go around battery to loosen up. Do not use plastic tab until you can see under battery a little bit. Great instructions. Took less than 10 minutes.
The adhesive is very strong and I was initially worried about damaging the phone by prying so much. There are a couple of places below the volume switch where you can pry between the metal of the case and the battery. If you lift the battery just a little, wiggle the pry bar further in and then start moving down the case. Don't worry about bending the battery, its dead anyway.
Do not pry on the left side (circuit board side) and do not use the pull tab until the adhesive is broken loose.
I tried this at first with a plastic pry tool, and the adhesive was so strong that I broke the tool. I then used a large screwdriver and applied pressure very slowly along various places on the outer side of the battery. That eventually did the trick.
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Retirez les deux vis cruciformes de 1,8 mm qui maintiennent la nappe du connecteur de dock à la carte mère.
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Retirez le cache métallique fin du connecteur de dock.
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Retirez les cinq vis suivantes:
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Trois vis cruciformes de 1,3 mm
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Une vis cruciforme de 1,5 mm
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Une vis cruciforme de 2,4 mm
Careful here...On my phone, the little mounting screw boss (the part the screw threads into) of the top red-circled screw came unglued/welded from the underlying board, meaning the screw will no longer be able to be screwed back in.
The three 1.3 mm screws are very difficult to distinguish from the 1.5 mm screw. I spent a long time with a magnifying glass trying to tell them apart. For the other steps of the repair, I kept the screws in a tray compartment along with the piece that they connected, but for this step I recommend keeping each of the different types of screws separate.
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A l'aide d'un outil en plastique, faites levier pour soulever le connecteur de la caméra arrière de son emplacement sur la carte mère.
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Retirez la caméra arrière de l'iPhone.
Better to delay removing the camera and its cable until the Display and Digitizer cables are removed as there is an arm on the right side of the camera that slips under the other cables.
I agree with ed -- move the camera removal step until after Step 16, after the digitizer and display cables have been removed, as there is a tab/arm on the camera's cable that should go under these two cables during reassembly.
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Déconnectez les cinq nappes près du haut de la carte mère dans l'ordre suivant:
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Nappe de la prise casque/du bouton de volume
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Nappe du bouton marche/arrêt
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Nappe de la caméra avant
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Nappe du tactile
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Nappe d'écran
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Pour déconnecter les nappes, utilisez un outil en plastique pour soulever délicatement leurs connecteurs de leurs emplacements sur la carte mère.
The Digitizer Cable on the new display seems to be too short. Trying to make it reach. It doesn't reach its place on the logic board. Going to disassemble and start over. (Step 15)
Any pointers?
What happened was there is a tab on the cable, and that didn't go all the way through the casing. I made this mistake about 3 times. It's not too short, just move the screen a little away from the casing, and pull the cable all the way through without ripping it.
⚠️ On reassembly, before plugging in the screen/digitizer cables, put the rear facing camera back in. There's a prong on the camera that lays underneath them.
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Retirez la vis cruciforme #000 de 1,5 mm près de la prise casque.
take out screw on top of stand of first, then take of grounding plat, and then stand off.
This is correct.
Echoing the notes from 'boo' and Corey -- that's exactly what I saw too. Perhaps the guide should be updated?
This has been changed several times on the iphone 4 logic board manual, and the changes are always being reverted. There _IS_ a screw in step 16, but someone seems intent on not having it mentioned in the manual. Dunno why...
Because it's mentioned in Step 20.
It may have been mentioned in step 20 at some point, but it isn't anymore. The phillips head screw that's mentioned in step 20 is the one holding the grounding finger to the rear-facing camera corner of the motherboard.
That said, my concerns about step 16 have since been rectified, so I suppose step 20 could've been fixed at the same time.
There's a little rubber piece that you can see in the Step 17 & Step 21 pictures just above the yellow sticker. It fits over the edge of the board where the two ribbon cables from the display/digitizer come up through the board (Step 36). It's there to make sure the ribbon cables don't rub against the sharp edge of the board. This piece loves to fall out when pulling the logic board off. Make sure to put it back in when routing the cables in Step 36, thin edge on the bottom, thicker edge on the top.
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Soulevez le petit clip de la mise à terre de la carte mère et retirez-le de l'iPhone.
Can you show how this piece attaches?
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A l'aide d'un outil en plastique, déconnectez le connecteur de l'antenne Wi-Fi de la carte mère.
For me, aligning the connector when putting things back together was the most difficult part of this repair. Unlike reattachment of the radio antenna in step 11, it is very difficult to see whether the male/female are aligned properly before applying pressure. Unfortunately, I have no secret as to how to accomplish this, other than to say that my WiFi is working after the repair.
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Retirez la vis cruciforme #000 de 2,5 mm qui maintient la carte mère près du bouton de marche/arrêt.
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Dévissez la vis d'entretoise de 4,8 mm près de la prise casque.
I’d use a Phillips 00 instead of a flathead
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Retirez la vis cruciforme de 3,4 mm près du moteur du vibreur.
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Dévissez les deux vis d'entretoise de 3,6 mm le long du côté de la carte mère qui se trouve au plus près de l'emplacement de la batterie.
When replacing the standoff screw closest to the dock connector, make sure it is tightened all the way down. The battery terminal screw fits in the standoff later, and if the standoff isn't tight (NOT TOO TIGHT!) then the battery will not be completely connected and your phone will power off unless tethered. This mimics a bad logic board symptom! Inspect this before replacing your logic board!
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Soulevez délicatement la carte mère par le côté le plus près de l'emplacement du haut-parleur, et faites-la glisser en l'écartant du bord supérieur de l'iPhone.
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Retirez la carte mère.
When I was attempting to reinstall the logic board (step 21 in reverse), a small rubber bumper came loose from 'somewhere' on the board (I think). It isn't visible in any of the photos, so I really have no idea where it came from!
I don't see it in the pictures either, but I'm pretty sure there is a black bumper that rides on the 'top' of the logic board. I believe it reduces friction between the display/digitizer cables and the top of the logic board.
You can see this "bumper" in steps 16 and 20 (right above the yellow sticker in the pics), and it provides relief for the digitizer and display cables as they both come up and around the edge of the logic board. I put my bumper with its thicker side down towards the inside of the phone and it worked fine.
The rubber bumper has a groove in it, which rides a notch along the top edge of the logic board. Its purpose is to ease pressure between the top of the phone and the board. If you look at the top of the frame, there is a little horizontal ridge about 0.8cm (3/8") long which is just the right width of the rubber bumper.
For reference:
Your images show incorrect placement of the rubber spacer. Step 20 shows correct placement. It is just above the scan code sticker on the motherboard. That is where the ribbon cables roll over, so it makes sense.
I assume the thick side would be facing the rear of the phone, but can not be sure.?
I wouldn't use Windex. It's mostly water. Why would anyone put water on a connection? Use isopropyl alcohol and be certain that it's at least 95% alcohol.
Better yet use contact cleaner or the original Brakleen (in the RED can). You can find the Brakleen at any automotive store.
I experienced that when the rubber spacer had the thick side up towards the rear of the phone, the display data cable would plug in but had enough pressure from the rubber bumper pushing up that it would eventually become partially unplugged. This may not be immediately apparent while putting the phone back together because of still being partially plugged in. This was not an issue when the thin side was installed facing up towards the back of the phone.
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Hope someone can ease my uncertainty: does the grounding finger for the
rear-facing camera go on TOP of the motherboard OR between the motherboard and
the standoff???
Under. There is nothing to ground if it went over the pcb. Look on the backside.
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Utilisez un outil en plastique pour décoller le haut-parleur interne de l'adhésif en mousse qui le fixe à l'iPhone.
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Retirez le haut-parleur interne.
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Retirez les deux vis cruciformes de 2,0 mm fixant le cache du bouton de marche à la coque extérieure.
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Écartez légèrement le cache de la nappe du bouton de marche de la coque extérieure.
I noticed something very strange when reattaching the cable. I tightened both of the screws in Step 25, and tried pressing the power button. It did not move. Then I slightly loosened the right screw in the picture (the one toward the center of the phone) and got a satisfying click when I pressed the power button. My initial tightening of the screw was snug, but not overly so - about the same torque as was required to release most of the other screws. So many people have problems with this button that there might be some sort of design flaw in the power button assembly, which partially manifests itself by very small tolerance on the tightness of this screw.
Agree with Matt above. After tightening the screws attaching the power button bracket back onto the outer case as tightly as I could, the power but would not depress (which was the whole reason I was replacing the Power button cable - the little black button had fallen off of the power switch I was replacing). However, after loosening these screws a little bit, and testing the power button while adjusting the tightness of the screws, I was able to get the screw tightness just right so that the power button noticeably worked again.
Sorry AlSmith, for some reason I thought your post was from different user. Thanks for your advice. I was comply frustrated otherwise.
Don't do it! I advise you to not dare attempt to remove those screws, while screen is mounted. It is too risky! Display's ribbon cable interferes with driver access to these screws. While driving these screws, I unknowingly broke my display cable. It is actually a delicate circuit, not just a simple flexible ribbon. If I knew just how delicate is display cable, then I would not have ventured to perform this replacement. (In my case, only proximity sensor was not working; power and and ambient light sensor were both functioning. In my case, it was not worth breaking a pricy screen for sake of a cheap sensor.)
With a broken screen cable, iPhone endlessly repeats a diagnostic sound or vibration.
iPhone endlessly repeats the "power supply accepted" sound or vibration
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Utilisez un outil d'ouverture en plastique pour décoller délicatement la nappe du bouton de marche de la coque extérieure.
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Retirez la nappe du bouton de marche de l'iPhone.
With due respect to all the wonderful step-by-step instructions on iFixit.... this guide fails terribly at its most critical and most difficult steps... 27 and 28. Getting that ribbon connector out from under the speaker device and around the silver object with the cut-out triangle is VERY CHALLENGING and not even mentioned in this guide. Some brave soul should describe and photograph these key moments which are most delicate and crucial.
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Utilisez un outil d'ouverture en plastique pour détacher le cache en métal du bouton de marche de l'interrupteur du bouton de marche même.
I had a lot of difficulty with this step. I did not have adhesive attached to my replacement part nor double sided adhesive tape to replace it. I was able to finish by screwing the power button bracket on - but very loosely. It took some doing, but I placed the ribbon between the button and bracket - making sure to line it up properly. After it looked right I tightened it down - but it took a few attempts to get correct. I need to do it again to take a picture of exactly how the ribbon attaches to the bracket and button - I had to look at a few other videos because I didn't pay close attention during dismantling.
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Pour remonter votre appareil, suivez ces instructions dans l'ordre inverse.
Pour remonter votre appareil, suivez ces instructions dans l'ordre inverse.
Annulation : je n'ai pas terminé ce tutoriel.
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3 commentaires
My power button quit working. I bought the cable assembly and replaced it per these instructions. Everything seemed to work at first but later I noticed my phone kept trying to shut itself off. Any ideas what is causing this? It only seems to occur after I use the power button. It is almost as if it is getting stuck down.
Please remove your screen first, before replacing power button or sensor cable. I advise you to not dare attempt to remove those Step 25 screws (power button cable bracket ) while screen is mounted.
It is too risky! Display's ribbon cable interferes with driver access to these screws. While driving these screws, I unknowingly broke my display cable. It is actually a delicate circuit, not just a simple flexible ribbon. If I knew just how delicate is display cable, then I would not have ventured to perform this replacement. (In my case, only proximity sensor was not working; power and and ambient light sensor were both functioning. In my case, it was not worth breaking a pricy screen for sake of a cheap sensor.)
With a broken screen cable, iPhone endlessly repeats a diagnostic sound or vibration.
iPhone endlessly repeats the "power supply accepted" sound or vibration
Pra descarregar a bateria, antes de fazer o serviço, isso serve pra qualquer celular?
Gilmar Dutra - Réponse