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Remplacement de la nappe de gestion audio et du vibreur de l'iPhone 6 Plus

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  1. Remplacement de la nappe de gestion audio et du vibreur de l'iPhone 6 Plus, Vis Pentalobe: étape 1, image 1 de 1
    • Avant de démonter votre iPhone, déchargez la batterie en dessous de 25%. Une batterie lithium ion chargée peut s'enflammer et/ou exploser si elle est percée accidentellement.

    • Éteignez votre iPhone avant de commencer la réparation.

    • Retirez les deux vis Pentalobe de 3,6 mm situées près du connecteur Lightning.

    I prefer to remove the SIM card as the very first step since it's safer to do so while the phone is fully assembled.

    estebanfallasf - Réponse

    I stripped one of the two screws - at a dead stop.

    Margaret Patterson - Réponse

    Before you even start: get the iOpener or hairdryer out. You’ll need it

    GPZ - Réponse

    If a lightning connector won’t provide a charge or needs to be wiggled carefully to provide a charge, power off the device, then try using precision tweezers to scrape the innermost wall of the lightning jack in a pinching motion to check for lint buildup. Pocket lint or other debris can accumulate inside the jack, compacting each time a cable is inserted. This can prevent a lightning cable from seating fully. Clearing the lint may restore functionality without replacing the part.

    Andrew Dolan - Réponse

    A few hints:

    * heating up the phone works great. I used a heating pad that you put in the microwave to heat sports injuries.

    * also, I made a sheet to help you keep track of the screws as you remove them. Print out the page, then place double sided tape below each color-coded listing of screws, and stick the screws to the tape as you disassemble. This helps prevent losing the screws and keeps track of what screws are what for easier reassembly. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1pLSvKvB...

    Paul Faulstich - Réponse

    Additional hints, for anyone who needs them:

    * stick the screws to the tape in the same positions as they are shown in the guide. This will make it easier to identify them during reassembly.

    * if the screws get mixed together, the ‘mm’ (millimetre, millimeter) measurements given in the guide can be used to identify them. Compare the lengths of the threaded shafts to each other to determine which screw is which.

    Friendly Advice -

  2. Remplacement de la nappe de gestion audio et du vibreur de l'iPhone 6 Plus, Instructions Anti-Clamp: étape 2, image 1 de 3 Remplacement de la nappe de gestion audio et du vibreur de l'iPhone 6 Plus, Instructions Anti-Clamp: étape 2, image 2 de 3 Remplacement de la nappe de gestion audio et du vibreur de l'iPhone 6 Plus, Instructions Anti-Clamp: étape 2, image 3 de 3
    • Les deux étapes suivantes sont consacrées à la procédure avec l'Anti-Clamp, un outil facilitant les procédures d'ouverture. Si vous n'avez pas d'Anti-Clamp, passez à la procédure alternative deux étapes plus loin.

    • Pour des instructions complètes sur comment utiliser l'Anti-Clamp, jetez un œil à ce tutoriel.

    • Tirez la poignée bleue vers l'arrière pour débloquer les bras de l'Anti-Clamp.

    • Insérez le côté droit ou gauche de votre iPhone entre les bras.

    • Positionnez les ventouses près du bord inférieur de l'iPhone, juste au-dessus du bouton home : une sur le dessus, l'autre en dessous.

    • Appuyez sur les deux ventouses pour qu'elles adhèrent bien à l'endroit voulu.

    • Si vous trouvez que la surface de votre iPhone est trop glissante pour que l'Anti-Clamp puisse adhérer, vous pouvez utiliser du ruban adhésif pour créer une surface plus adhérente.

  3. Remplacement de la nappe de gestion audio et du vibreur de l'iPhone 6 Plus: étape 3, image 1 de 3 Remplacement de la nappe de gestion audio et du vibreur de l'iPhone 6 Plus: étape 3, image 2 de 3 Remplacement de la nappe de gestion audio et du vibreur de l'iPhone 6 Plus: étape 3, image 3 de 3
    • Tirez la poignée bleue vers l'avant pour bloquer les bras.

    • Tournez la poignée dans le sens horaire, de 360 degrés ou jusqu'à ce que les ventouses commencent à s'étirer.

    • Vérifiez que les ventouses restent bien alignées entre elles. Si elles commencent à se décaler, détachez-les pour les réaligner.

    • Insérez un médiator ou un outil sous l'écran dès que l'Anti-Clamp a créé un espace suffisant.

    • Si l'Anti-Clamp ne crée par un espace suffisamment large, tournez la poignée d'un quart de tour de plus.

    • Ne tournez pas plus d'un quart de tour à la fois, et attendez quelques minutes à chaque fois. Laissez l'Anti-Clamp et le temps faire le travail pour vous.

    • Sautez les trois étapes suivantes.

    Use clear nontextured tape place that over the phone screen. Refer to any guide that addresses replacing a shattered screen

    Abigail Cherry - Réponse

    I know it's tough with cracked glass. You just need enough to get in a plstic pry tool or guitar pick. Then you can pry it apart. Just be patient, I cannot stress that enough; the electronics are very, very small and fragile.

    Mike - Réponse

  4. Remplacement de la nappe de gestion audio et du vibreur de l'iPhone 6 Plus, Écran: étape 4, image 1 de 1
    • Si vous n'avez pas d'iSlack, utilisez une ventouse pour soulever l'écran :

    • Posez une ventouse sur la vitre juste au dessus du bouton home et appuyez.

    • Assurez-vous que la ventouse est bien accrochée à la vitre.

    • Si votre écran est très fissuré, le recouvrir d'une couche d'adhésif transparent peut permettre à la ventouse d'adhérer. Autre solution, un adhésif très résistant peut être utilisé à la place de la ventouse. Si tout échoue, vous pouvez coller la ventouse sur l'écran cassé.

    Avec la ventouse, l’ouverture est brutale, tout s’est déclipsé d’un seul coup. Faire attention.

    Paul Briffaut - Réponse

    English Please!

    tom mozeleski -

    With the sucker, the opening is brutal, everything was cleared at once. Pay attention. (Paul’s comment translated by Google)

    Steve Schlotter - Réponse

    May need to burp the sticker before it sticks. Need to let the air out. Once Idid that, no problem. Except it was still hard to get the cover to start up.

    Patricia Tucker - Réponse

    Don’t waste your time with the suction cup - it doesn’t work! insert the blade of a box cutter just below the lower screen edge below the home button and gently pry just enough to start cracking the seal.

    Stephen Smith - Réponse

  5. Remplacement de la nappe de gestion audio et du vibreur de l'iPhone 6 Plus: étape 5, image 1 de 1
    • Tout en tenant l'iPhone, tirez sur la ventouse pour séparer légèrement l'écran du boîtier arrière.

    • Prenez votre temps et tirez de façon ferme et continue. L'écran tient beaucoup mieux que la plupart des composants.

    • Utilisez un outil en plastique (plastic opening tool) pour pousser le boîtier vers le bas tout en tirant sur la ventouse vers le haut.

    • Il y a plusieurs clips qui attachent l'écran au boîtier, il vous faudra utiliser et la ventouse et l'outil en plastique ( plastic opening tool) pour libérer l'écran.

    Be extra careful here. If you don’t take your time, your front panel may jerk back on you, causing you to overextend and break the front camera/mic flex cable; happened to me. Slowly peel back the front panel, opening it no more than 90º.

    Thomas - Réponse

    watch out for the left side of the phone the adhesive bunches up around the inner clips, i didn’t realize it and the upper left of my screen cracked pretty bad. But this guide is awesome follow every direction to the letter

    Aaron Fitzpatrick - Réponse

    Note: this comment is written for the iPhone 6 Plus, but may also apply to other models of iPhone.

    Disassembly:

    The clips in the rear case attach to small slotted shapes under the edges of the display assembly, and these attachment points alternate from one side to the other. Moving from bottom to top, gently pulling the rear case away at these points will help to separate the two halves without using too much force.

    Reassembly:

    Ensure that the plastic clips along the top edge of the front panel (shown in step 8) are fitted properly inside the rear case, then gently press the display assembly into the rear case at these points, moving from top to bottom. There may be a small click sound as the clips in the rear case engage with the slots on the display assembly, and the rear case should fit flush with the edges of the display assembly.

    Friendly Advice - Réponse

    This was challenging. For me, the suction cup could only create a tiny bit of motion and at first, no actual gap at all. You might have to pull the suction cup away from the base a few times just to loosen things up a tiny bit. Eventually, I got my fingernail in, and then after a few minutes got the plastic tool in.

    Also, use the plastic tool to gently pry along the sides of the phone once there’s light there. I was afraid of using too much leverage and breaking the screen as per the other comments, but starting at the bottom and then going around the sides slowly worked for me.

    FixingMyiPhone - Réponse

  6. Remplacement de la nappe de gestion audio et du vibreur de l'iPhone 6 Plus: étape 6, image 1 de 2 Remplacement de la nappe de gestion audio et du vibreur de l'iPhone 6 Plus: étape 6, image 2 de 2
    • Tirez sur le bouton en plastique pour relâcher la pression interne de la ventouse.

    • Décrochez la ventouse de l'écran.

    There is an adhesive strip all along the edge between the top and bottom of the phone. Is that just adhesive or is it wire of some sort?

    Larry Ingerling - Réponse

    @lingerling The adhesive strip was introduced on the iPhone 6s and 6s Plus (one model year later than what’s shown on this page). Guides specific to each model can be found here—be sure to use the correct one for your particular phone. And yes, just adhesive, no wires. ;)

    Jeff Suovanen - Réponse

  7. Remplacement de la nappe de gestion audio et du vibreur de l'iPhone 6 Plus: étape 7, image 1 de 3 Remplacement de la nappe de gestion audio et du vibreur de l'iPhone 6 Plus: étape 7, image 2 de 3 Remplacement de la nappe de gestion audio et du vibreur de l'iPhone 6 Plus: étape 7, image 3 de 3
    • Soulevez la partie de l'écran avec le bouton home tout en utilisant la partie supérieure du téléphone pour faire charnière.

    • Ouvrez l'écran à un angle d'environ 90 ° et penchez-le contre quelque chose pour le garder calé pendant que vous travaillez sur le téléphone.

    • Ajoutez une bande adhésive pour maintenir l'écran bien en place pendant que vous travaillez. Cela évite une pression excessive sur les câbles de l'écran.

    • À la limite, vous pouvez utiliser une boisson en canette fermée pour maintenir l'écran.

    Be careful If we leave the screen connected and set it to 90 degrees, the speaker / sensor flex may break. With an opening of 60 degrees it is convenient to completely disconnect the screen. The headset's flex is short, and if we put it at 90º, it can break. Guiding me from the images of iFixit, I have broken two cables.

    Español:

    Cuidado. Si dejamos la pantalla conectada y lo ponemos a 90 grados, el flex del altavoz/sensor puede romperse. Con una abertura de 60 grados es conveniente desconectar enteramente la pantalla. El flex del auricular es corto, y si lo ponemos en 90º , se puede romper. Guiándome de las imágenes de iFixit, se me han roto dos cables.

    txaukos - Réponse

    At 60º the display will block access to all the screws and the phone would be practically unserviceable, so I’m having trouble making sense of this comment. The cables on a factory original display are pretty tough and designed with enough slack that a 90º angle is no problem. Same with any decent aftermarket display.

    Jeff Suovanen - Réponse

    If you look at the enlarged image, you can see how the flex cable from the camera / speaker is in tension. This is my opinion. Sorry for my bad English

    Si usted se fija en la imagen ampliada, puede ver cómo el flex cable de la cámara/altavoz está en tensión. Esta es mi opinión.

    Perdón por mi mal inglés

    txaukos - Réponse

    your English isn’t the issue, it’s the proposed 60 degree opening space that doesn’t allow for the removal of the screws of the mounting plate where the connectors connect to the main pcb…

    if can make a recommendation here; it helps if the can is full and not refrigerated, the weight helps in keeping the phone where it should stay without adding additional tension to the ‘flex’ ribbon cable. it’s called flex for a reason people, if your breaking these the phones already been overheated too much, the cables become brittle and should also be replaced. i replaced my battery without disconnecting the screen, at 90 degrees with a rubber band around an empty beer can. pierced the orig. battery and caused sparks. albeit, i wasn’t in a hurry and it took me a good 30+ minutes, removal of the battery and stickers is by far the most challenging, especially when NOT disconnecting the screen…

    it’s not a race, take your time. move slowly but precisely with forethought and persistent force…

    circuitbender 477 - Réponse

    Werkt dit ook voor iPhone 7(plus)?

    Christina Pegtel - Réponse

    Werkt dit hetzelfde voor iPhone 7 (plus)?

    Christina Pegtel - Réponse

  8. Remplacement de la nappe de gestion audio et du vibreur de l'iPhone 6 Plus: étape 8, image 1 de 2 Remplacement de la nappe de gestion audio et du vibreur de l'iPhone 6 Plus: étape 8, image 2 de 2
    • Plusieurs clips le long du bord supérieur de l'écran forment une charnière partielle, permettant d'ouvrir l'écran comme un livre.

    • Lors du remontage, alignez les clips correctement sous le bord supérieur du boîtier. Puis insérez l'écran jusqu'à ce que son bord supérieur soit au même niveau que celui du boîtier.

    I would recommend protecting the screen once the display is free and the suction cup has been removed. This will help avoid any possibility of accidental scratching of the display crystal while the remaining steps are being performed. I used an inexpensive screen protector then removed it after reassembling and testing are complete.

    anthonyspampinato - Réponse

  9. Remplacement de la nappe de gestion audio et du vibreur de l'iPhone 6 Plus: étape 9, image 1 de 1
    • Retirez les vis cruciformes suivantes du support du connecteur de la batterie :

    • Une vis de 2,3 mm

    • Une vis de 3,1 mm

    for the iPhone 6 Plus, all screws were Phillips #000

    Michael Adams - Réponse

    I had difficulty removing the 3.1mm (iPhone 6 Plus / Phillips #000); had to give it significant downward pressure to get it started.

    Allen Matheson - Réponse

    stripped the 2.3mm screw attempting to remove, had to use excessive force to successfully remove

    Matthew Gao - Réponse

    The Phillips bits provided in the kit would not engage the Phillips heads enough to loosen them. Luckily I had my own small screwdriver set that worked like a charm.

    David Davis - Réponse

    Same issue. Could not remove the screw. Dead in the water.

    Tiffany - Réponse

    Agree with above comments regarding the supplied Phillips bit. It is not the correct size.

    Use a Phillips #000.

    bobgottner - Réponse

    Phillips #000 is what’s included in the kit. As others mentioned above, firm downward pressure is key. The phone is not that delicate; just press hard and crank it.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    Is this step necessary ?\

    Asianay - Réponse

    @asianay0129 Yes, disconnecting the battery is necessary. You can sometimes get away with skipping it, at the risk of destroying something important and potentially bricking your phone. Not a wise gamble for the sake of skipping two screws.

    Jeff Suovanen - Réponse

  10. Remplacement de la nappe de gestion audio et du vibreur de l'iPhone 6 Plus: étape 10, image 1 de 1
    • Retirez le support métallique du connecteur de batterie de l'iPhone.

    Was not able to remove the battery connector bracket as one of the cable connectors was glued/stuck to the underside. Instead moved the bracket out of the way to disconnect the battery. Care should be taken not to over bend/stretch the ribbon cable.

    dwtan - Réponse

    That may be just the foam connector adhering to the bracket. If you pull up gently and twist slightly it should separate.

    Evan Noronha -

    It was the foam connector, and it did twist free with a gentle pull

    Al Taylor - Réponse

  11. Remplacement de la nappe de gestion audio et du vibreur de l'iPhone 6 Plus: étape 11, image 1 de 1
    • Utilisez un ongle propre ou un outil d'ouverture pour soulever délicatement le connecteur de batterie de son support sur la carte logique.

    • Prenez soin de seulement faire levier sur le connecteur de la batterie, et non sur la prise de la carte logique. Si vous faites levier sur la prise de la carte logique, vous risquez de briser entièrement le connecteur.

    you may consider placing a thin non-conductive item between the connector and the socket like a bit of rubber band to prevent any power flowing during this procedure

    Michael Adams - Réponse

    It was too close to other parts to pry up with either end of plastic tool. Finally used 1 tine of tweezer to lift edge. Came free easily

    Al Taylor - Réponse

    J’ai pris une loupe pour bien observer l’endroit où placer l’outil.

    Paul Briffaut - Réponse

    Magnification is key for many tasks and this is certainly one.

    Kenneth Gilbert - Réponse

    I couldn’t use the iFixit blue opening tool to pry that battery connector. I used the top of the black spudger near the hole where the 3.1mm screw was in step 9-10 to easily pry it open!

    Alyssa Sayuki - Réponse

    The blue plastic board breaker can easily cause damage here. Professionals would recommend using the human fingernail as the ideal tool for this job.

    Jessa Jones - Réponse

  12. Remplacement de la nappe de gestion audio et du vibreur de l'iPhone 6 Plus: étape 12, image 1 de 1
    • Enlevez les vis cruciformes suivantes, qui maintiennent le cache des connecteurs de l'écran :

    • Trois vis de 1,2 mm

    • Une vis de 1,5 mm

    • Une vis de 2,9 mm

    • N'essayez pas d'insérer des vis plus longues dans les trous de vis marqués en rouge. Cela pourrait endommager la carte mère de façon irréparable.

    There's an other panel with one screw in the middle.........

    Herbert - Réponse

    Sounds like you have an iPhone 6s Plus, rather than a 6 Plus. Be sure to use the correct guide! And make sure you’ve ordered the correct part, as they’re not cross-compatible.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    I _love_ the color coding of screws. I know this is a little OCD, but it would be incredibly useful if there were an 8.5 X 11 you could print with indicated homes for where to drop items from each step of disassembly. That is, in the box for step 9, little colored circles for where to place each screw type. As long as you don't jostle the paper, it would make it a lot easier to know exactly where you are in reassembly.

    cscarlson47shop - Réponse

    I have done the exact same thing. Created a sheet where each screw goes.

    Chris Murphy -

    I used the 000 bit from the ifixit 54 piece kit.

    hhandh - Réponse

    Actually you don’t need to do steps 12 to 18 if you attach the display panel to the iPhone box as shown in step 7 and handle your iPhone with care during the replacement. I didn’t disconnect the display panel mainly because the more you work on the interior of your phone the higher is the chance you break something.

    Dany Castillo - Réponse

    Since this guide is for DISPLAY replacement, I don’t see how you can skip the steps for disconnecting and removing the DISPLAY.

    Jim Bateman -

    That's what I was thinking.

    The Wizard - Réponse

    I skipped this series of steps too. I was very careful when removing the battery and never had an issue with the screen leaning back against the box that this battery shipped in. I even broke half of the third strip of adhesive but used a plastic card to slide under the battery and it slowly lifted out without applying heat.

    mark - Réponse

    I'm having trouble with one screw not wanting to come out. Any suggestions to keep from stripping the head and getting it?

    Patric - Réponse

    which screws are which sizes cause i ordered new ones and cant figure it out

    MONsterHEIT - Réponse

    I also did not see the need to remove the display assembly for this repair. However I did place a can of corn against the vertically positioned display and then secured the display to the can with a rubber band.

    whiteshephard - Réponse

    I recommend removing the display assembly, I didn’t and somehow damaged the home button cable. At least remove the cover to ease the tension on the cables.

    Steve Schlotter - Réponse

    I played around with different screwdrivers to get certain screws out. I made sure I wasn’t applying heavy pressure so I wouldn’t strip the head. Apple is crazy for doing this to us lol.

    Anyways invest in a magnetized mat to organize your screws. It was really difficult to keep things organized and still, especially with these tiny screws…

    Jeffrey Robinos - Réponse

    what happens if i forgot to put the ribbon cable shield back on? the phone is now working but i forgot to put the shield back on and i am missing 2 screws. can i leave the shield off?

    Fred ticoman. - Réponse

    @ticoman12 It’ll work without the shield, but the connectors may pop out unexpectedly.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    Just be really careful remembering which screw is which. I drew a quick sketch of the bracket, then put the screws in the relevant places. There’s no way I would have been able to figure them out otherwise - my eyes can’t see the difference between a 1.2 and 1.5mm screw!

    Paul Johnson - Réponse

    The most fiddly part of the job.

    Much easier if you put the screwdriver head on the screw and then insert it into the opening. The slight magnetism will hold it in place. Don’t fully tighten a screw until all the screws are in place. Much like installing lug nuts on a car.

    GPZ - Réponse

    I also skipped steps 12-18 as Danny had suggested. It made this repair quite easy, so thank you and others for suggesting this. I was also very careful to allow the battery to discharge before starting the process.

    Bruce Platt - Réponse

    I question whether Steps 12-18 (separating the display from the case) is actually necessary? The battery can be removed/replaced with the display connected (but standing upright, as displayed in Step 7.

    Leaving the display attached obviates the most difficult steps (re-connecting the various control ribbons — 3/4 of ‘em!

    I followed this manual completely and the repair was successful. But if I had this to do over, I’d leave the display connected.

    Dana Smith - Réponse

    I skipped the steps 12-18 as well and thank goodness I did so I won’t have to worry about issues with any of the cables.

    my panel is different from what is pictured anyway ‘cause I have one screw in the middle like what Herbert said on the first comment.

    Maria Filamor-Robinson - Réponse

    I realized too late just how handy the magnetic mat is that they have in their shop. So I organized the screws with a piece of clear packing tape. On the smooth side, use a sharpie to draw spacious circles with “R” “O” and “Y” inside each circle to represent the color coded screws and then use the sticky side to keep the screws in place. I found that using the tweezers to take them off the screwdriver helps you stick them head first to the tape better.

    Selena Castillo - Réponse

  13. Remplacement de la nappe de gestion audio et du vibreur de l'iPhone 6 Plus: étape 13, image 1 de 1
    • Enlevez le cache des connecteurs de l'écran de la carte mère.

  14. Remplacement de la nappe de gestion audio et du vibreur de l'iPhone 6 Plus: étape 14, image 1 de 2 Remplacement de la nappe de gestion audio et du vibreur de l'iPhone 6 Plus: étape 14, image 2 de 2
    • Pendant les quatre étapes suivantes, faites attention de ne déconnecter que les connecteurs des nappes et surtout pas les connections sur la carte mère.

    • Tout en tenant toujours l'écran, utilisez un ongle ou l'extrémité plate d'un Spudger (spatule en nylon) pour déconnecter la caméra avant et le haut-parleur interne.

    Why does the screen need to come off?

    Sterling Coffey (N0SSC) - Réponse

    Because the cables are delicate, and following steps are easier if phone halves are not flopping around together, especially for amateurs.

    Matthew Goheen - Réponse

    I don't know if anyone will see this but here it goes: for the life of me I can't get the front-facing camera and earpiece speaker connector to seat. Everything else went back together fine but this one connector will not go in. Sometimes it seems like it's in even though it doesn't really pop in and it'll kinda sit there for a sec and then it pops out.

    Any insight would be greatly appreciated, thank you

    Droopy Caledonia - Réponse

    Try starting at one end instead of in the middle. It's to easy to bend a connector and this way, I can get a safe start and go from there.

    Rongwey - Réponse

  15. Remplacement de la nappe de gestion audio et du vibreur de l'iPhone 6 Plus: étape 15, image 1 de 2 Remplacement de la nappe de gestion audio et du vibreur de l'iPhone 6 Plus: étape 15, image 2 de 2
    • Déconnectez le connecteur de la nappe de bouton home.

  16. Remplacement de la nappe de gestion audio et du vibreur de l'iPhone 6 Plus: étape 16, image 1 de 2 Remplacement de la nappe de gestion audio et du vibreur de l'iPhone 6 Plus: étape 16, image 2 de 2
    • Assurez-vous à cette étape que la batterie est débranchée avant de déconnecter ou reconnecter la nappe.

    • Utilisez un outil en plastique pour déconnecter le connecteur de la nappe de gestion de l'écran.

    • Lors du remontage de votre téléphone, la nappe de gestion de l'écran peut se défaire du connecteur. Les conséquences peuvent être des lignes blanches ou un écran noir lorsque vous rallumez votre téléphone. Si c'est le cas, reconnectez simplement la nappe et débranchez et rebranchez votre téléphone. La meilleure façon de le faire est de déconnecter et reconnecter le connecteur de la batterie.

    The piece of advice about power cycling the phone by disconnecting and reconnecting the battery proved crucial to the success of my repair (camera and lens replacement). At first when charging the phone after closing it, I got a dark, blank screen with an intermittent buzzing noise. After re-opening the phone and making sure all cables had been properly reconnected, I ignored the advice to power cycle the phone. Still all I got was a dark, blank screen (and intermittent buzzing if charging t). Then I opened it a third time (leaving the screen connected and attached at a 90 degree angle) and I only disconnected and reconnected the battery. Voila! When I closed the phone and powered it up, I got the screen to light up!

    Gianni - Réponse

    how did you disconnect and reconnect the battery?

    Teresa Trevino - Réponse

    If you’ve been following the guide, you already disconnected it in this step. To reconnect it, just line up the connector and press it into place.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    After replacing the battery, the phone seems dead. I thought it just needed recharging so I left it charging all night. Still dead in the morning. Now I think it might be because the display data cable is off, and I should open the phone and check it. But the battery might be on full power in that case, and they don’t advice to open the phone when battery if full. What can I do?

    Ila Awasthi - Réponse

    The advice aims at avoiding battery fire. Just be careful.

    Katherine Williams - Réponse

  17. Remplacement de la nappe de gestion audio et du vibreur de l'iPhone 6 Plus: étape 17, image 1 de 2 Remplacement de la nappe de gestion audio et du vibreur de l'iPhone 6 Plus: étape 17, image 2 de 2
    • Pour terminer, déconnecter la nappe de gestion tactile.

    • Lors de la reconnexion du câble numériseur, ne pas appuyer sur le centre du connecteur. Appuyez sur une extrémité du connecteur, puis appuyez sur l'extrémité opposée. Appuyer sur le centre du connecteur peut plier le composant et causer des dommages au numériseur.

    some images and guidance regarding reassembly would be helpful. You don't need to use the spudger to get them back on: fingers are better because there's a really subtle click you feel when you get them seated properly.

    cscarlson47shop - Réponse

    When you're reassembling, a note that this is the step where you should test for proper screen function would be really useful. First time I reassembled, I didn't seat something properly, got all the screws back together and then realized the screen wasn't functioning properly. Had to disassemble back down to step 14 and then re-reassemble.

    cscarlson47shop - Réponse

    I am having this issues right now! I have unplugged and plugged in these cables at least 20 times and each time I get white lines. I finally have it to where there are only 4 white lines and I am almost willing to live with it. Any suggestions?

    mattmay002 -

    Clean the screen connectors incase they are not making a clean connection

    Karen Jones - Réponse

    I'm having nightmares with the digitizer connector. Simply can't get it to work unless I'm applying some pressure on the connectors. Everything seems almost microscopically clean. Any suggestions friends?

    Henry A -

    could it be the replacement screen? test with your old screen and see if you have the same problem.

    Charles - Réponse

    To ++mattmay002++  Did you power cycle the phone? Check out the comments on the previous step for a how to.

    Robert Liles - Réponse

    I had issues with it too. When connecting this cable, make sure to rock finger side to side after connecting. It’s a wide connector so try to listen for 2 clicks on this one connector. That’s how I fixed mine

    Albert Einstein - Réponse

    Re-attaching this cable is the only tricky part to replacing the battery on my 6+. It had a bow on the middle that I had to flatten out before pressing the connector on with finger first on one edge and then on the other. I had white tire tracks on the screen and no touch screen until I connected it correctly. The front has to rest in just the right place on the back while attaching this thing so the cables aren’t strained the front doesn’t fall down. Small fingers would be a plus at this step.

    richard - Réponse

    Reseating these connectors on reassembly is definitely the most difficult part of this repair. It took me several attempts before the lowermost connector would seat properly and I did accidentally bend it slightly in the process. Fortunately I was able to get it straight again and get it to click in. The other three went in fine though and no lasting damage seems to have been done.

    Andy Gibbons - Réponse

    Another thing - These cables can become overlapped in the wrong way and make you think they are in a different order than they should be. Eg. it’s easy to mix up the ones from step 15 and 17. You can actually unravel the cables and re-layer them on top of each other in any order, so remember this! They look like they’re one solid mass but they’re not.

    domarius - Réponse

    I never removed the last digitizer connctor. I removed the first three connectors, left the screen propped at 90 deg tied to a box and removed the battery, there is minimal movement. In fact when I reattached the connectors, only the first and maybe second connector feels taut, so it’s necessary to only remove the first connector if you can be gentle with it. Less headache. And my guess why so many people had issues is that micro dust gets into the connectors and cause connection loss. You be surprised how little dust can cause havoc.

    darrcc - Réponse

    And forgot one thing, keep a can of air duster woth you to remove as must dust as you can see. A camera air blower will also do nice.

    darrcc - Réponse

    I haven’t removed my screen in past battery replacements, I found it easier. However, this time I followed the instructions because my old battery was very stuck, and I needed the screen gone to get the battery out…

    When I replaced the screen, at first it wouldn’t even boot/start up. (Yes, I inserted my own testing step, as someone here suggested, before final reassembly).

    The screen would just show a fuzzy image, and the board that all the cables attach to would heat up, then it would turn itself off. I tried reconnecting them carefully 3 times, and even made sure to get a little “click”, all to no avail.

    The final try, I used my fingernail to really press down on the back side of the digitizer cable. I heard more clicking, though I thought I might be tearing the cable too. With nothing left to lose, I continued across the back, and heard several more clicking/tearing sounds.

    This worked, and it booted after that. It still had white lines, but those faded away overnight.

    Morgan Giddings - Réponse

    About the digitizer connector: its flat cable is so short that the when I attempted to seat the next connector, its flat cable pressed on the digitizer cable, which can pull on the connector and dislodge it. That happened several times for me before success.

    Robert Bernard 27 Nov 19

    Robert H Bernard - Réponse

    Nous n’apercevons pas bien les nappes et l’ordre dans lesquelles elles doivent être replacer

    Patrick AZOULAY - Réponse

  18. Remplacement de la nappe de gestion audio et du vibreur de l'iPhone 6 Plus: étape 18, image 1 de 1
    • Détachez l'écran du boîtier arrière.

    Never remove the screen without disconnecting the battery. It's possible the back light can be blown and that's a even more difficult repair. Always, ALWAYS, disconnect battery before repairing items. (Unless it's not possible.)

    Marvin Ballard - Réponse

    How do you disconnect the battery from the screen?

    Shamil Bhatti -

    The Step 11 disconnects the battery :)

    jeffxtechs - Réponse

    I think you mean Step 8 :)

    Jeff Suovanen -

    How do you disconnect the battery

    I tried it once and

    Brian - Réponse

    And what? I tried it once and here’s a million dollars?

    Oh I get it… they got him! :(

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UlznqpBg...

    domarius -

    When disassembling the iphone at this point note the cables, and there placement/orientation.

    GERARD SZAREK - Réponse

    Be really careful with the step after this. Do not commence until you have read all the comments. You need to get a good hold of the plastic strips preferably before they double over on themselves. You have to avoid puncturing the battery at all costs. Slowness and caution here will save you a lot of long term pain.

    Laura Houghton - Réponse

  19. Remplacement de la nappe de gestion audio et du vibreur de l'iPhone 6 Plus, Batterie: étape 19, image 1 de 1
    • Enlevez la première bande adhésive en bas à droite de la batterie.

    • Utilisez vos doigts ou une pince arrondie, et faites particulièrement attention quand vous travaillez près de la batterie, une batterie lithium-ion ponctionnée peut libérer des produits chimiques dangereux ou s'enflammer.

    Ça été pour moi la partie la plus difficile du démontage de l’iPhone, j’ai cassé les 2 bandes parce que je ne me suis pas bien appliqué pour les décoller avec la pince. Pour m’en sortir,. j’ai tordu la batterie avec les outils de manière à faire apparaître les bandes adhésives pour les enlever sans problème.

    Paul Briffaut - Réponse

    Translation from Google:

    It was for me the most difficult part of the disassembly of the iPhone, I broke the two bands because I did not apply well to take off with the clamp. To get out of it ,. I twisted the battery with the tools so that the adhesive strips appeared to remove them without any problem.

    Ken - Réponse

    Slowly roll the pulled-out adhesive onto itself as you progress, this makes it easier to gauge how much stretch you need to exert on the remaining adhesive, as well as to gain enough grip to hold the adhesive properly. I also nearly tore off the middle one, it’s not due to my rough but because the battery’s black tape (at the area where these adhesive tabs are) caught onto the white adhesive, this must be the reason why most people’s tore off. Mine nearly tore off, so i slow rolled the pulled-out adhesive to catch back the adhesive, and then it’s roll and pull as per normal. With that I took equal precaution for the last one on the left, and it also was caught by the black tape, but since i know it this time, i slowly pulled it free of the black tape first before continuing the roll snd pull. 100% works. Trust me. My battery is slightly warm as i deliberately let it run for a while before i started the disassembly. I doubt it contributes much to the removal but no harm.

    darrcc - Réponse

    It's easier if you grasp the full width of the adhesive strip, straight across it, before starting to pull. That way the force is applied gently and evenly to the whole strip. I used watchmaker's forceps because they precisely pull up the adhesive tab, and easily squeeze the whole width of the strip—since it's critical to apply the pulling force evenly across the strip. Tug gently and twist the forceps to take up the slack, pulling just a few millimeters at a time. I learned this the hard way. My center strip snapped pretty quick because I didn't have a good, even grasp of it.

    For heat, I put a cup of raw white rice in a clean sock, knotted the open end, and microwaved it for 2 minutes. When it was cool enough to handle, I flattened it on the table and lay the phone upon it. That gave off enough gentle steady heat that I could pry up the battery without much bending, locate the adhesive end, and successfully wind it up with the forceps. I think I would use the hot rice-bed from the start next time. —Kw

    Katherine Williams - Réponse

  20. Remplacement de la nappe de gestion audio et du vibreur de l'iPhone 6 Plus: étape 20, image 1 de 2 Remplacement de la nappe de gestion audio et du vibreur de l'iPhone 6 Plus: étape 20, image 2 de 2
    • Essayez de garder les bandes adhésives plates et non plissées pendant cette procédure. Les bandes plissées se collent ensemble et cassent au lieu de s'extraire proprement.

    • Retirez très délicatement la bande adhésive de la batterie en tirant vers le bas de l'iPhone.

    • Laissez la bande à s'étendre avant de tirer plus fort. Si vous ne la sentez pas s'étirer, relâchez la tension ou la bande adhésive se déchirera.

    • Tirez dans un angle aussi plat possible en évitant que la bande ne touche des composant le long de la partie basse du téléphone.

    • N'appuyez pas sur la batterie pendant que vous retirez la bande adhésive.

    • La bande adhésive va s'étirer sur plusieurs fois sa longueur initiale. Continuez à tirer doucement jusqu'à ce que la bande se libère et sorte de sous la batterie.

    • Si la bande adhésive se déchire, utilisez vos doigts ou une pincette arrondie pour récupérer le reste de la bande et continuez à tirer.

    • Si une des bandes adhésives se déchire en dessous de la batterie et que vous ne pouvez plus la récupérer, essayez d'enlever le reste de la bande et passez à procédez comme indiqué ci-dessous.

    I found this much easier than when I did it on a 5S. Not sure if the adhesive strips are different, but I also left the phone on a radiator for a few minutes to help warm the glue. All three then pulled straight out of the phone in one go.

    James - Réponse

    I set my phone on a microfiber cloth on a plate that I had warmed (warm to the touch and that I could hold with my bare hands) in the microwave prior to this step. All 3 strips came off from the bottom and without any trouble.

    armitagd - Réponse

    Excellent tip, thanks.

    vanshdx10 - Réponse

    absolutely impossible unless you heat it. Thank You armitagd, that did the trick.

    chris - Réponse

    All three of mine tore off immediately, I had warmed the phone up too. A bit of a struggle with the tweezers and card method, the battery bent and leaked. Came out okay.

    John Blanchard - Réponse

    I recommend preheating the case before trying to remove each adhesive tape. Also, try wrapping the tape around a pencil as you pull and stretch the tape. I think that such gives a more even pull across the tape than by using one’s fingers.

    GPZ - Réponse

    I even didn’t find an adhesive in my phone, I had to use hairdryer to heat the battery, then remove it gently using the blue plastic and couple of plastic cards

    Mohammed Jitarayah - Réponse

    I can’t stress enough how important it is to preheat the case as others have mentioned. GPZ’s recommendation using a pencil is also pure gold - get enough initial purchase on the adhesive strip so that you can pull it taut and then place your pencil. From there, roll and tag alternately, keeping tension on it so that the adhesive doesn’t wrinkle in the process of removal.

    Jesse Espe - Réponse

    Heating probably works but I slowly pulled out an inch or so and then started rolling it onto my screwdriver. Then I slowly rolled the screwdriver which gave me a good grip and I could go slowly. Took more than 5 min but it got easier and easier. Believe me, getting the battery out using the alternative is very hard, and dangerously easy to penetrate the battery and start a small flame thrower (voice of experience).

    Thomas Hayes - Réponse

  21. Remplacement de la nappe de gestion audio et du vibreur de l'iPhone 6 Plus: étape 21, image 1 de 2 Remplacement de la nappe de gestion audio et du vibreur de l'iPhone 6 Plus: étape 21, image 2 de 2
    • Décollez la deuxième bande adhésive depuis l'autre côté de la batterie.

    • Encore une fois, tirez délicatement sur la bande adhésive de façon à ce qu'elle s'enlève lentement de l'espace entre la batterie et le boîtier arrière.

    • Continuez de tirer sur la languette adhésive jusqu'à ce qu'elle sort complètement d'en dessous de la batterie. Si la bande se déchire, essayez de récupérer le morceau restant et continuez à tirer ou suivez les instructions ci-dessous.

    This strip broke almost immediately with the first pull. I changed the battery on two iPhone 6 Plus’s. Impossible for me to retrieve broken ends. I moved on to the middle strip with no issue. I then used the blue opening tool to pry the battery up along the lower right edge of the battery (BE CAREFUL!). Once the battery is leveraged up enough to put the tip of the tweezers on the broken strip, grab a piece of the strip and pull it to a point where the removal process can continue as prescribed.

    whiteshephard - Réponse

    Pulling the strip around the corner did not work for me - it broke. I then pulled the middle strip straight out with no issues and the remaining left strip also straight without no problem. I don’t recommend pulling the side strips around the corner of the battery

    Swenja - Réponse

  22. Remplacement de la nappe de gestion audio et du vibreur de l'iPhone 6 Plus: étape 22, image 1 de 3 Remplacement de la nappe de gestion audio et du vibreur de l'iPhone 6 Plus: étape 22, image 2 de 3 Remplacement de la nappe de gestion audio et du vibreur de l'iPhone 6 Plus: étape 22, image 3 de 3
    • Retirez la dernière bande adhésive du bord inférieur de la batterie. Tirez doucement la bande adhésive vers le haut et en l'éloignant de la batterie, permettant à la bande adhésive de glisser lentement entre la batterie et le boîtier arrière.

    • Placez une main sur la batterie lorsque vous finissez d'enlever la dernière bande pour éviter que la batterie ne soit projetée hors de l'iPhone.

    • Continuez à tirer jusqu'à ce que la dernière bande se détache de l'iPhone.

    • Si vous avez réussi à retirer les trois bandes adhésives, passez à l'étape 24. Sinon, si l'adhésif se déchire sous la batterie et ne peut pas être récupéré, appliquez quelques gouttes d'alcool isopropylique à haute concentration (plus de 90 %) sous le bord de la batterie dans la zone de la ou des bandes adhésives cassées.

    • Attendez environ une minute pour que la solution d'alcool ramollisse l'adhésif. Utilisez l'extrémité plate d'une spatule pour soulever délicatement la batterie.

    • N'essayez pas de retirer la batterie avec force. Si nécessaire, appliquez quelques gouttes supplémentaires d'alcool pour ramollir davantage l'adhésif. Ne jamais déformer ou percer la batterie avec votre outil de levier.

    • Ne faites pas levier contre la carte mère, vous pourriez endommager définitivement votre iPhone. Ne faites pas levier sous la partie supérieure de la batterie, près des boutons d'augmentation du volume et de sourdine, ou vous risquez d'endommager la nappe des commandes audio, qui est collée à la coque arrière, juste en dessous de la batterie.

    • Pour d'autres méthodes pour décoller la batterie, passez à l'étape suivante ci-dessous.

    I don’t know why the instructions didn’t mention this, but I pulled it to the left and back, like the previous strip, rather than straight back, to avoid snapping.

    domarius - Réponse

    Pull the adhesive strips at a 45° angle up away from the back or the strip will catch on the bottom board and will tear and break. If it starts to tear, , see if you can grab a spot after the ear and keep pulling. These things are super thin and fragile. Go sloooow when you pull the strips. You are going to pull them a long way, so be patient.

    Ok, so you broke one. Or two. Or all three. Forget the alcohol. Lay your phone face down on a towel and heat it with a hair dryer for two minutes. Flip it over carefully as it will be hot. Insert a plastic spudger under the bottom edge and carefully push/slide it under the battery toward to top of the phone along the strip(s) that are still stuck. DO NOT PRY. You may have to heat it again if it gets hard to push. BE CAREFUL. The battery will bend a bit, but don’t bend it excessively or poke it as it can catch fire when exposed to air. Eventually the battery will pop free. Remove the stuck adhesive and wipe it a bit with alcohol and let it dry.

    Sheldon Carpenter - Réponse

  23. Remplacement de la nappe de gestion audio et du vibreur de l'iPhone 6 Plus, Méthodes alternatives pour décoller le batterie: étape 23, image 1 de 1
    • Si la batterie reste collée à la coque arrière, préparez un iOpener ou utilisez un sèche-cheveux pour chauffer la coque arrière directement derrière la batterie.

    • Ensuite, utilisez un outil d'ouverture en plastique pour soulever delicatement la batterie.

    • La surchauffe de l'iPhone peut enflammer la batterie.

    • Sinon, un morceau de fil dentaire peut être utilisé pour séparer la batterie de la coque arrière. Une alternative plus solide au fil dentaire est une corde de guitare déroulée, telle qu'une corde de 0,009 E d'un ensemble de 12 cordes.

    • Introduisez le fil dentaire ou la corde de guitare sous un bout de la batterie et tirez de gauche à droite dans un mouvement de scie pour faire céder l'adhésif.

    Hat leider alles nicht geklappt! Musste mit einer Karte und einer Seite sehr lange fummeln und da sich die Folie vom Akku zu sehr mit dem gehäuse verbunden hat. Dadurch hat sie sich gelöst und durch das erwärmen leider auch nicht wirklich besser.

    Jess Sass - Réponse

    Translation from Google:

    Unfortunately, everything did not work out! Had to fumble with a card and a page for a long time and because the film from the battery has too much connected to the housing. As a result, she has solved and by warming unfortunately not really better.

    Ken -

    This step was very difficult as the adhesive strips snapped on me and I had to use a card to make the strips come out by siding the plastic card on the strips as thought I was trying to cut a very thin slice of cheese. (NOTE: DO NOT USE ANYTHING METAL when attempting this method) I actually tried using a metal spudger while trying to remove the adhesive strips and punctured the old battery slightly enough to cause smoke.

    Bryan - Réponse

    iBreak-it: caught the wifi antenna connector when using a guitar string to work the extremely stubborn battery adhesive strips off. Now I need a new wifi antenna. What next?

    Dale Williams - Réponse

    Lay your phone face down on a towel and heat it with a hair dryer for two minutes. Flip it over carefully as it will be hot. Insert a plastic spudger under the bottom edge and carefully push/slide it under the battery toward to top of the phone along the strip(s) that are still stuck. DO NOT PRY. You may have to heat it again if it gets hard to push. BE CAREFUL. The battery will bend a bit, but don’t bend it excessively or poke it as it can catch fire when exposed to air. Eventually the battery will pop free. Remove the stuck adhesive and wipe it a bit with alcohol and let it dry.

    Sheldon Carpenter - Réponse

  24. Remplacement de la nappe de gestion audio et du vibreur de l'iPhone 6 Plus: étape 24, image 1 de 1
    • Enlevez la batterie de l'iPhone.

    • Si votre batterie de remplacement est livrée avec une protection plastique, enlevez la protection avant l'installation en l'éloignant de la nappe.

    • S'il reste de l'alcool dans le téléphone, essuyez-le soigneusement ou laissez-le sécher à l'air libre avant d'installer votre nouvelle batterie.

    • Avant de coller la batterie de remplacement, reconnectez temporairement le connecteur de la batterie à la prise de la carte mère. Cela garantit que la batterie est correctement alignée dans son compartiment.

    • Collez la batterie, débranchez-la et poursuivez le remontage de votre appareil.

    • Si votre nouvelle batterie ne dispose pas de bandes adhésives préinstallées, reportez-vous à ce tutoriel pour remplacer les bandes adhésives de votre batterie.

    • Effectuez un hard reset après le remontage. Cela peut empêcher plusieurs problèmes et simplifier le dépannage.

    Once again, ifixit comes through! I bought the battery and the repair kit and the new battery installed and charging. My only hitch was that the three adhesive strips all broke when I pulled on them. I had to heat the bottom of the phone to separate the battery. It was a small moment of panic, but it just required a bit more patience. Thanks for all you do!

    jamesg - Réponse

    Awesome procedure! Thanks. iPhone 6plus working great. Make sure you have quality tools. Thanks again.

    Leo Lambert - Réponse

    Everything went well enough but, I replaced the battery last month and after a while the phone started going into an on-off cycle. It only happens intermittently. At first it would do it only once and stop. Now it does it, still intermittently, but when it happens it keeps cycling on and off. It even does it when it’s charging. If I let it sit, while charging, after several hours it stops doing it again.

    Larry Ingerling - Réponse

    The battery kit didn’t come with adhesives. It seems that I’m not the only one to mention it .

    Nat Turner - Réponse

    Hi there! The battery kit does come with replacement adhesive along with all the tools needed to complete the repair. The part-only battery does not include adhesive, it needs to be purchased separately!

    Sam Goldheart -

    Almost blew up the battery with alot of holes, im traumatized. In the end i did by force and trew it 10 meters away while i were outside.

    Milan - Réponse

    i turned on my phone and the screen is all stripes :(

    Emily M. Curran - Réponse

    Sounds like either the display cable isn't properly connected or it’s been damaged. If all else fails, send it to a professional.

    Rongwey -

    The Ifixit battery comes with new adhesive strips already attached to the battery. Suggest that it’s best to leave the protective acetate over the strips until AFTER the new battery is re-connected and the connector cover is reinstalled (2 screws). Then its easy to remove the acetate cover from the adhesive strips and locate the battery.

    If the battery is stuck in (with the adhesive strips BEFORE the connector is correctly installed it is impossible to adjust the position of the battery to align the connector.

    Dana Smith - Réponse

    My screen doesn’t even show up anything when charging but it makes the sound thought.

    Osvaldo G - Réponse

  25. Remplacement de la nappe de gestion audio et du vibreur de l'iPhone 6 Plus, Ensemble antenne: étape 25, image 1 de 1
    • Retirez les vis suivantes, fixant le support d'antenne à la coque arrière :

    • Une vis cruciforme #00 de 1,5 mm

    • Une vis cruciforme #00 de 2,8 mm

  26. Remplacement de la nappe de gestion audio et du vibreur de l'iPhone 6 Plus: étape 26, image 1 de 1
    • Saisissez le support d'antenne avec une pincette et retirez-le de l'iPhone.

  27. Remplacement de la nappe de gestion audio et du vibreur de l'iPhone 6 Plus: étape 27, image 1 de 1
    • Décollez soigneusement le connecteur d'antenne de la carte mère avec un outil d'ouverture en plastique.

  28. Remplacement de la nappe de gestion audio et du vibreur de l'iPhone 6 Plus: étape 28, image 1 de 2 Remplacement de la nappe de gestion audio et du vibreur de l'iPhone 6 Plus: étape 28, image 2 de 2
    • Saisissez le connecteur d'antenne avec une pincette et retirez-le délicatement de son clip de retenue sur la carte mère.

  29. Remplacement de la nappe de gestion audio et du vibreur de l'iPhone 6 Plus: étape 29, image 1 de 2 Remplacement de la nappe de gestion audio et du vibreur de l'iPhone 6 Plus: étape 29, image 2 de 2
    • Les deux connecteurs peuvent être recouverts par une seule languette adhésive. Si tel est le cas, ils peuvent se détacher ensemble.

    • Débranchez les connecteurs de la nappe du bouton power et du câble de gestion audio de leur prise respective sur la carte mère.

  30. Remplacement de la nappe de gestion audio et du vibreur de l'iPhone 6 Plus: étape 30, image 1 de 1
    • Retirez les vis suivantes, fixant l'antenne cellulaire supérieure à la coque arrière :

    • Une vis cruciforme #00 de 2,8 mm

    • Deux vis cruciformes #00 de 1,6 mm

  31. Remplacement de la nappe de gestion audio et du vibreur de l'iPhone 6 Plus: étape 31, image 1 de 2 Remplacement de la nappe de gestion audio et du vibreur de l'iPhone 6 Plus: étape 31, image 2 de 2
    • Utilisez une pincette pour saisir et retirer l'antenne cellulaire supérieure de l'iPhone.

    • Lors du remontage, assurez-vous de placer la petite rondelle dans le coin supérieur gauche de l'ensemble antenne.

  32. Remplacement de la nappe de gestion audio et du vibreur de l'iPhone 6 Plus, Nappe de gestion audio et du vibreur: étape 32, image 1 de 2 Remplacement de la nappe de gestion audio et du vibreur de l'iPhone 6 Plus, Nappe de gestion audio et du vibreur: étape 32, image 2 de 2
    • Utilisez une pincette pour décoller la seule languette adhésive qui recouvre les connecteurs de la nappe du bouton home et de la nappe de gestion audio/du vibreur.

  33. Remplacement de la nappe de gestion audio et du vibreur de l'iPhone 6 Plus: étape 33, image 1 de 1
    • Retirez les vis suivantes fixant la nappe de gestion audio et du vibreur à la coque arrière :

    • Deux vis cruciformes #00 de 2,0 mm

    • Une vis cruciforme #00 de 2,5 mm

  34. Remplacement de la nappe de gestion audio et du vibreur de l'iPhone 6 Plus: étape 34, image 1 de 3 Remplacement de la nappe de gestion audio et du vibreur de l'iPhone 6 Plus: étape 34, image 2 de 3 Remplacement de la nappe de gestion audio et du vibreur de l'iPhone 6 Plus: étape 34, image 3 de 3
    • Saisissez la nappe de gestion audio et du vibreur avec une pincette.

    • Détachez lentement la nappe de gestion audio et du vibreur de la coque arrière.

    • Décollez avec précaution. La nappe est fixée à la coque arrière avec un adhésif doux.

    Hallo

    vielleicht kannst du mir helfen ich habe bei meinem iPhone X den stummschalten aus gebaut und erneuert jetzt kriege ich es nicht mehr zusammen Bzw der stumm Schalter wird beim festschrauben sehr schwergäng bis fest woran liegt das bin am verzweifeln

    defilippo - Réponse

Conclusion

Pour réassembler votre appareil, suivez ces instructions dans l'ordre inverse.

21 autres ont terminé cette réparation.

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Un commentaire

I had removed the rocker switch cable but can't get the mute switch back in properly on reassembling the device.

I have put the mute switch back on the flex cable correctly but when screwed in the switch doesn't 'flick' all the way to click into the mute position. It gets stuck and flicks back the the unmuted position.

Any help would be appreciated

dalychristopher0 - Réponse

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