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Introduction
Utilisez ce tutoriel pour remplacer la nappe du connecteur Lightning et de la prise Jack.
Ce dont vous avez besoin
Vidéo d'introduction
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Éteignez votre iPhone avant de commencer la réparation.
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Retirez les deux vis Pentalobe de 3,6 mm situées près du connecteur Lightning.
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Tirez la poignée bleue vers l'arrière pour débloquer les bras de l'Anti-Clamp.
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Insérez le côté droit ou gauche de votre iPhone entre les bras.
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Positionnez les ventouses près du bord inférieur de l'iPhone, juste au-dessus du bouton home : une sur le dessus, l'autre en dessous.
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Appuyez sur les deux ventouses pour qu'elles adhèrent bien à l'endroit voulu.
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Tirez la poignée bleue vers l'avant pour bloquer les bras.
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Tournez la poignée dans le sens horaire, de 360 degrés ou jusqu'à ce que les ventouses commencent à s'étirer.
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Insérez un médiator ou un outil sous l'écran dès que l'Anti-Clamp a créé un espace suffisant.
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Sautez les trois étapes suivantes.
Use clear nontextured tape place that over the phone screen. Refer to any guide that addresses replacing a shattered screen
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Si vous n'avez pas d'iSlack, utilisez une ventouse pour soulever l'écran :
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Posez une ventouse sur la vitre juste au dessus du bouton home et appuyez.
Avec la ventouse, l’ouverture est brutale, tout s’est déclipsé d’un seul coup. Faire attention.
English Please!
With the sucker, the opening is brutal, everything was cleared at once. Pay attention. (Paul’s comment translated by Google)
May need to burp the sticker before it sticks. Need to let the air out. Once Idid that, no problem. Except it was still hard to get the cover to start up.
Don’t waste your time with the suction cup - it doesn’t work! insert the blade of a box cutter just below the lower screen edge below the home button and gently pry just enough to start cracking the seal.
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Tout en tenant l'iPhone, tirez sur la ventouse pour séparer légèrement l'écran du boîtier arrière.
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Utilisez un outil en plastique (plastic opening tool) pour pousser le boîtier vers le bas tout en tirant sur la ventouse vers le haut.
watch out for the left side of the phone the adhesive bunches up around the inner clips, i didn’t realize it and the upper left of my screen cracked pretty bad. But this guide is awesome follow every direction to the letter
Note: this comment is written for the iPhone 6 Plus, but may also apply to other models of iPhone.
Disassembly:
The clips in the rear case attach to small slotted shapes under the edges of the display assembly, and these attachment points alternate from one side to the other. Moving from bottom to top, gently pulling the rear case away at these points will help to separate the two halves without using too much force.
Reassembly:
Ensure that the plastic clips along the top edge of the front panel (shown in step 8) are fitted properly inside the rear case, then gently press the display assembly into the rear case at these points, moving from top to bottom. There may be a small click sound as the clips in the rear case engage with the slots on the display assembly, and the rear case should fit flush with the edges of the display assembly.
This was challenging. For me, the suction cup could only create a tiny bit of motion and at first, no actual gap at all. You might have to pull the suction cup away from the base a few times just to loosen things up a tiny bit. Eventually, I got my fingernail in, and then after a few minutes got the plastic tool in.
Also, use the plastic tool to gently pry along the sides of the phone once there’s light there. I was afraid of using too much leverage and breaking the screen as per the other comments, but starting at the bottom and then going around the sides slowly worked for me.
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Tirez sur le bouton en plastique pour relâcher la pression interne de la ventouse.
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Décrochez la ventouse de l'écran.
There is an adhesive strip all along the edge between the top and bottom of the phone. Is that just adhesive or is it wire of some sort?
@lingerling The adhesive strip was introduced on the iPhone 6s and 6s Plus (one model year later than what’s shown on this page). Guides specific to each model can be found here—be sure to use the correct one for your particular phone. And yes, just adhesive, no wires. ;)
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Soulevez la partie de l'écran avec le bouton home tout en utilisant la partie supérieure du téléphone pour faire charnière.
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Ouvrez l'écran à un angle d'environ 90 ° et penchez-le contre quelque chose pour le garder calé pendant que vous travaillez sur le téléphone.
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Ajoutez une bande adhésive pour maintenir l'écran bien en place pendant que vous travaillez. Cela évite une pression excessive sur les câbles de l'écran.
Be careful If we leave the screen connected and set it to 90 degrees, the speaker / sensor flex may break. With an opening of 60 degrees it is convenient to completely disconnect the screen. The headset's flex is short, and if we put it at 90º, it can break. Guiding me from the images of iFixit, I have broken two cables.
Español:
Cuidado. Si dejamos la pantalla conectada y lo ponemos a 90 grados, el flex del altavoz/sensor puede romperse. Con una abertura de 60 grados es conveniente desconectar enteramente la pantalla. El flex del auricular es corto, y si lo ponemos en 90º , se puede romper. Guiándome de las imágenes de iFixit, se me han roto dos cables.
At 60º the display will block access to all the screws and the phone would be practically unserviceable, so I’m having trouble making sense of this comment. The cables on a factory original display are pretty tough and designed with enough slack that a 90º angle is no problem. Same with any decent aftermarket display.
If you look at the enlarged image, you can see how the flex cable from the camera / speaker is in tension. This is my opinion. Sorry for my bad English
Si usted se fija en la imagen ampliada, puede ver cómo el flex cable de la cámara/altavoz está en tensión. Esta es mi opinión.
Perdón por mi mal inglés
your English isn’t the issue, it’s the proposed 60 degree opening space that doesn’t allow for the removal of the screws of the mounting plate where the connectors connect to the main pcb…
if can make a recommendation here; it helps if the can is full and not refrigerated, the weight helps in keeping the phone where it should stay without adding additional tension to the ‘flex’ ribbon cable. it’s called flex for a reason people, if your breaking these the phones already been overheated too much, the cables become brittle and should also be replaced. i replaced my battery without disconnecting the screen, at 90 degrees with a rubber band around an empty beer can. pierced the orig. battery and caused sparks. albeit, i wasn’t in a hurry and it took me a good 30+ minutes, removal of the battery and stickers is by far the most challenging, especially when NOT disconnecting the screen…
it’s not a race, take your time. move slowly but precisely with forethought and persistent force…
Werkt dit ook voor iPhone 7(plus)?
Werkt dit hetzelfde voor iPhone 7 (plus)?
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I would recommend protecting the screen once the display is free and the suction cup has been removed. This will help avoid any possibility of accidental scratching of the display crystal while the remaining steps are being performed. I used an inexpensive screen protector then removed it after reassembling and testing are complete.
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Retirez les vis cruciformes suivantes du support du connecteur de la batterie :
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Une vis de 2,3 mm
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Une vis de 3,1 mm
for the iPhone 6 Plus, all screws were Phillips #000
I had difficulty removing the 3.1mm (iPhone 6 Plus / Phillips #000); had to give it significant downward pressure to get it started.
stripped the 2.3mm screw attempting to remove, had to use excessive force to successfully remove
The Phillips bits provided in the kit would not engage the Phillips heads enough to loosen them. Luckily I had my own small screwdriver set that worked like a charm.
Agree with above comments regarding the supplied Phillips bit. It is not the correct size.
Use a Phillips #000.
Phillips #000 is what’s included in the kit. As others mentioned above, firm downward pressure is key. The phone is not that delicate; just press hard and crank it.
@asianay0129 Yes, disconnecting the battery is necessary. You can sometimes get away with skipping it, at the risk of destroying something important and potentially bricking your phone. Not a wise gamble for the sake of skipping two screws.
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Retirez le support métallique du connecteur de batterie de l'iPhone.
Was not able to remove the battery connector bracket as one of the cable connectors was glued/stuck to the underside. Instead moved the bracket out of the way to disconnect the battery. Care should be taken not to over bend/stretch the ribbon cable.
That may be just the foam connector adhering to the bracket. If you pull up gently and twist slightly it should separate.
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Utilisez un ongle propre ou un outil d'ouverture pour soulever délicatement le connecteur de batterie de son support sur la carte logique.
you may consider placing a thin non-conductive item between the connector and the socket like a bit of rubber band to prevent any power flowing during this procedure
J’ai pris une loupe pour bien observer l’endroit où placer l’outil.
Magnification is key for many tasks and this is certainly one.
I couldn’t use the iFixit blue opening tool to pry that battery connector. I used the top of the black spudger near the hole where the 3.1mm screw was in step 9-10 to easily pry it open!
The blue plastic board breaker can easily cause damage here. Professionals would recommend using the human fingernail as the ideal tool for this job.
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Enlevez les vis cruciformes suivantes, qui maintiennent le cache des connecteurs de l'écran :
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Trois vis de 1,2 mm
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Une vis de 1,5 mm
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Une vis de 2,9 mm
Sounds like you have an iPhone 6s Plus, rather than a 6 Plus. Be sure to use the correct guide! And make sure you’ve ordered the correct part, as they’re not cross-compatible.
I _love_ the color coding of screws. I know this is a little OCD, but it would be incredibly useful if there were an 8.5 X 11 you could print with indicated homes for where to drop items from each step of disassembly. That is, in the box for step 9, little colored circles for where to place each screw type. As long as you don't jostle the paper, it would make it a lot easier to know exactly where you are in reassembly.
I have done the exact same thing. Created a sheet where each screw goes.
Actually you don’t need to do steps 12 to 18 if you attach the display panel to the iPhone box as shown in step 7 and handle your iPhone with care during the replacement. I didn’t disconnect the display panel mainly because the more you work on the interior of your phone the higher is the chance you break something.
Since this guide is for DISPLAY replacement, I don’t see how you can skip the steps for disconnecting and removing the DISPLAY.
That's what I was thinking.
I skipped this series of steps too. I was very careful when removing the battery and never had an issue with the screen leaning back against the box that this battery shipped in. I even broke half of the third strip of adhesive but used a plastic card to slide under the battery and it slowly lifted out without applying heat.
which screws are which sizes cause i ordered new ones and cant figure it out
I also did not see the need to remove the display assembly for this repair. However I did place a can of corn against the vertically positioned display and then secured the display to the can with a rubber band.
I recommend removing the display assembly, I didn’t and somehow damaged the home button cable. At least remove the cover to ease the tension on the cables.
I played around with different screwdrivers to get certain screws out. I made sure I wasn’t applying heavy pressure so I wouldn’t strip the head. Apple is crazy for doing this to us lol.
Anyways invest in a magnetized mat to organize your screws. It was really difficult to keep things organized and still, especially with these tiny screws…
what happens if i forgot to put the ribbon cable shield back on? the phone is now working but i forgot to put the shield back on and i am missing 2 screws. can i leave the shield off?
@ticoman12 It’ll work without the shield, but the connectors may pop out unexpectedly.
Just be really careful remembering which screw is which. I drew a quick sketch of the bracket, then put the screws in the relevant places. There’s no way I would have been able to figure them out otherwise - my eyes can’t see the difference between a 1.2 and 1.5mm screw!
I also skipped steps 12-18 as Danny had suggested. It made this repair quite easy, so thank you and others for suggesting this. I was also very careful to allow the battery to discharge before starting the process.
I question whether Steps 12-18 (separating the display from the case) is actually necessary? The battery can be removed/replaced with the display connected (but standing upright, as displayed in Step 7.
Leaving the display attached obviates the most difficult steps (re-connecting the various control ribbons — 3/4 of ‘em!
I followed this manual completely and the repair was successful. But if I had this to do over, I’d leave the display connected.
I skipped the steps 12-18 as well and thank goodness I did so I won’t have to worry about issues with any of the cables.
my panel is different from what is pictured anyway ‘cause I have one screw in the middle like what Herbert said on the first comment.
I realized too late just how handy the magnetic mat is that they have in their shop. So I organized the screws with a piece of clear packing tape. On the smooth side, use a sharpie to draw spacious circles with “R” “O” and “Y” inside each circle to represent the color coded screws and then use the sticky side to keep the screws in place. I found that using the tweezers to take them off the screwdriver helps you stick them head first to the tape better.
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Tout en tenant toujours l'écran, utilisez un ongle ou l'extrémité plate d'un Spudger (spatule en nylon) pour déconnecter la caméra avant et le haut-parleur interne.
Why does the screen need to come off?
Because the cables are delicate, and following steps are easier if phone halves are not flopping around together, especially for amateurs.
I don't know if anyone will see this but here it goes: for the life of me I can't get the front-facing camera and earpiece speaker connector to seat. Everything else went back together fine but this one connector will not go in. Sometimes it seems like it's in even though it doesn't really pop in and it'll kinda sit there for a sec and then it pops out.
Any insight would be greatly appreciated, thank you
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Utilisez un outil en plastique pour déconnecter le connecteur de la nappe de gestion de l'écran.
The piece of advice about power cycling the phone by disconnecting and reconnecting the battery proved crucial to the success of my repair (camera and lens replacement). At first when charging the phone after closing it, I got a dark, blank screen with an intermittent buzzing noise. After re-opening the phone and making sure all cables had been properly reconnected, I ignored the advice to power cycle the phone. Still all I got was a dark, blank screen (and intermittent buzzing if charging t). Then I opened it a third time (leaving the screen connected and attached at a 90 degree angle) and I only disconnected and reconnected the battery. Voila! When I closed the phone and powered it up, I got the screen to light up!
how did you disconnect and reconnect the battery?
If you’ve been following the guide, you already disconnected it in this step. To reconnect it, just line up the connector and press it into place.
After replacing the battery, the phone seems dead. I thought it just needed recharging so I left it charging all night. Still dead in the morning. Now I think it might be because the display data cable is off, and I should open the phone and check it. But the battery might be on full power in that case, and they don’t advice to open the phone when battery if full. What can I do?
The advice aims at avoiding battery fire. Just be careful.
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Pour terminer, déconnecter la nappe de gestion tactile.
some images and guidance regarding reassembly would be helpful. You don't need to use the spudger to get them back on: fingers are better because there's a really subtle click you feel when you get them seated properly.
When you're reassembling, a note that this is the step where you should test for proper screen function would be really useful. First time I reassembled, I didn't seat something properly, got all the screws back together and then realized the screen wasn't functioning properly. Had to disassemble back down to step 14 and then re-reassemble.
I am having this issues right now! I have unplugged and plugged in these cables at least 20 times and each time I get white lines. I finally have it to where there are only 4 white lines and I am almost willing to live with it. Any suggestions?
Clean the screen connectors incase they are not making a clean connection
I'm having nightmares with the digitizer connector. Simply can't get it to work unless I'm applying some pressure on the connectors. Everything seems almost microscopically clean. Any suggestions friends?
Henry A -
To ++mattmay002++ Did you power cycle the phone? Check out the comments on the previous step for a how to.
I had issues with it too. When connecting this cable, make sure to rock finger side to side after connecting. It’s a wide connector so try to listen for 2 clicks on this one connector. That’s how I fixed mine
Re-attaching this cable is the only tricky part to replacing the battery on my 6+. It had a bow on the middle that I had to flatten out before pressing the connector on with finger first on one edge and then on the other. I had white tire tracks on the screen and no touch screen until I connected it correctly. The front has to rest in just the right place on the back while attaching this thing so the cables aren’t strained the front doesn’t fall down. Small fingers would be a plus at this step.
Reseating these connectors on reassembly is definitely the most difficult part of this repair. It took me several attempts before the lowermost connector would seat properly and I did accidentally bend it slightly in the process. Fortunately I was able to get it straight again and get it to click in. The other three went in fine though and no lasting damage seems to have been done.
Another thing - These cables can become overlapped in the wrong way and make you think they are in a different order than they should be. Eg. it’s easy to mix up the ones from step 15 and 17. You can actually unravel the cables and re-layer them on top of each other in any order, so remember this! They look like they’re one solid mass but they’re not.
I never removed the last digitizer connctor. I removed the first three connectors, left the screen propped at 90 deg tied to a box and removed the battery, there is minimal movement. In fact when I reattached the connectors, only the first and maybe second connector feels taut, so it’s necessary to only remove the first connector if you can be gentle with it. Less headache. And my guess why so many people had issues is that micro dust gets into the connectors and cause connection loss. You be surprised how little dust can cause havoc.
I haven’t removed my screen in past battery replacements, I found it easier. However, this time I followed the instructions because my old battery was very stuck, and I needed the screen gone to get the battery out…
When I replaced the screen, at first it wouldn’t even boot/start up. (Yes, I inserted my own testing step, as someone here suggested, before final reassembly).
The screen would just show a fuzzy image, and the board that all the cables attach to would heat up, then it would turn itself off. I tried reconnecting them carefully 3 times, and even made sure to get a little “click”, all to no avail.
The final try, I used my fingernail to really press down on the back side of the digitizer cable. I heard more clicking, though I thought I might be tearing the cable too. With nothing left to lose, I continued across the back, and heard several more clicking/tearing sounds.
This worked, and it booted after that. It still had white lines, but those faded away overnight.
About the digitizer connector: its flat cable is so short that the when I attempted to seat the next connector, its flat cable pressed on the digitizer cable, which can pull on the connector and dislodge it. That happened several times for me before success.
Robert Bernard 27 Nov 19
Nous n’apercevons pas bien les nappes et l’ordre dans lesquelles elles doivent être replacer
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Détachez l'écran du boîtier arrière.
Never remove the screen without disconnecting the battery. It's possible the back light can be blown and that's a even more difficult repair. Always, ALWAYS, disconnect battery before repairing items. (Unless it's not possible.)
How do you disconnect the battery from the screen?
The Step 11 disconnects the battery :)
I think you mean Step 8 :)
And what? I tried it once and here’s a million dollars?
Oh I get it… they got him! :(
domarius -
When disassembling the iphone at this point note the cables, and there placement/orientation.
Be really careful with the step after this. Do not commence until you have read all the comments. You need to get a good hold of the plastic strips preferably before they double over on themselves. You have to avoid puncturing the battery at all costs. Slowness and caution here will save you a lot of long term pain.
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A l'aide de l'extrémité plate d'une spatule (spudger), faites levier sur le connecteur de la nappe du vibreur pour l'enlever de sa prise sur la carte mère.
Both on my original and on my replacement, there was adhesive on the underside of this connector and it blended in with the color of the speaker (instead of being gray, as in the photo), so that it looked like it was attached to the speaker itself. In reality, it is part of the lightning connector and headphone jack assembly that is being replaced and that is stuck to the case (cf. steps 34–38). If yours is similar, go ahead and peel it off of the top of the speaker now, and the speaker will come right out when you get to that step.
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Retirez les deux vis cruciformes #00 de 2,5 mm fixant le vibreur au boîtier arrière.
These two screws are stuck on my phone. Does anyone have any suggestions for loosening them. The heads are becoming stripped the more i try to take them out. I appreciate any suggestions
if you have some spare crummy screwdrivers - like the kind that come with the replacement screens - you can try supergluing it. You just have to be super careful and not get glue anywhere else. make sure you have the screwdriver set in the screw as snugly as possible and let it sit a day or two before you gently try to unscrew it. You can google that method.
There's a few common methods for this issue.First let me say that not all the screw heads are the EXACT SAME SIZE.You strip the screws when you use a driver that is too small so let's get that out of the way first so that you don't have this problem in the future.
Now,Method one: use a rubberband
Method two: A brass Penelope or the higher end kind,Not the little black ones that come in common kits but the ones that come with slightly better kits for example they are usually orange.You must first try constant firm very firm that is,pressure when extracting.You want to basically gouge a pentelope head into the screw,if head on fails then go to an angle after that.Be extremely careful with this method as it's better than the rubberband and I find it's always worked for me,You gotta remain careful when doing this or you might end up slipping and causing catastrophic damage to the board.
GoodLuck
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Saisissez l'interconnexion d'antenne avec des pincettes et commencez à la retirer soigneusement de son canal sur l'enceinte.
I suggest adding in an advisory to "carefully apply pressure against the metal channel that is holding down the antenna cable", because if you just de-rout only handing the cable, the cable snags against the metal channel and in my case has split the cable covering open by half an inch on my iPhone 6 Plus.
edit Suggest adding Step 25 into Step 24
Agreed! Same thing happened with my iPhone 6 Plus. The Spudger made it easy to apply pressure against the metal channel.
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Retirez les deux vis cruciformes #00 de 3,3 mm fixant le support en métal à l'ensemble connecteur Lightning.
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Retirez les vis cruciformes #00 suivantes qui fixent l'ensemble connecteur Lightning au boîtier arrière :
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Deux vis de 3,2 mm
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Une vis de 3,8 mm
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Deux vis de 1,7 mm
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Deux vis de 1,5 mm
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Deux vis de 1,4 mm
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Soulevez et retirez de l'iPhone la nappe du connecteur Lightning et de la prise Jack.
When reassembling, the new part had a bunch of little blue tabs where I had to reveal the adhesive. It would be worth an explicit step description explaining which blue tabs to remove and which to leave, as well as which end to start with (seat the headphone jack first, then line up the screw holes across the bottom edge, etc.) I panicked when I seated the jack and it looked like the screw holes didn't line up, before I realized I had to bend the connector to the jack to make the rest of it fit properly.
On that last picture, we can see some kind of a black spacer, keeping the hole of the mic away from the body of the phone... When performing the lightning port replacement, I accidently threw that part away and now the bottom mic doesn't sit where it should so people I call can barely hear me. Anyone could point out where I can find that part? Been searching all around the web without any result! Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thanks
Yeah. Thank yu.
My new assembly was missing a small rubber gasket on the headphone jack and a small plastic spacer glued to the microphone. These had to be salvaged from the old assembly. Both are easy to loose once removed from the old assembly! Also all of the tabs (blue and yellow) have to be removed to activate the adhesive they are protecting. This should be noted in the instruction steps.
I completely agree with Tommy and Bob as I have encountered the same issue. The little rubber piece became lost when doing the replacement. I managed to find the same little piece at an iPhone repair store where they luckily had some of extra of these and they just gave me one. Still nowhere on the internet, I can seem to find a proper transfer video of this little rubber part. It would be very helpful to add the steps in the replacement.
Iv’e seen this happen a few times as well so I just wanted to post a comment about it. The mic ribbon is very thin and if you do not gently separate the mic from the frame there is a chance that the ribbon will tear. It does not take much force for that ribbon to tear.
Beside the earphone jack gasket, also watch out for the lightning port covering that would probably be attached (via adhesive) to the original lightning port and headphone jack cable. Be sure to migrate that part also, otherwise there will be a gap between the iphone’s lightning port opening and the actual lightning port itself.
My original bottom mic stopped working, and the replacement works, but the volume is low. I should be good to get a few more years out of the iPhone.
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Pour remonter votre appareil, suivez ces instructions dans le sens inverse.
Pour remonter votre appareil, suivez ces instructions dans le sens inverse.
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25 commentaires
I did this tonight, took about 45 min. I used my iFixit tool kit to all the work.
When putting it back together I had an issue with my screen going all "white lines", turns out it was just a loose connection on the digitizer cable, I lifted it and placed it again and all is good with the world.
I had to replace the assembly because I was getting feedback when making calls with headphones and no voice at all with headphones if the phone was plugged into power. Now I can do both.
Thanks so much iFixit for making this possible.
After fixing my headset jack successfully, people could not hear me clearly on the mic. I took it apart again today. The clip that holds the mic in place, next to the jack, had been put down too tight to the mic, which kept it from moving enough to pick sound up clearly -- everything was muddied. I only had to pull the case open a little, unscrew the mic assembly to loosen it, wiggle it back a bit, move the mic a little to align it better with the hole, and then tighten it back down. It works beautifully now and everyone says I sound better than ever. A really easy fix, but it could have been avoided if there were instructions on putting everything back together or at least tips for little things like this.
My iphone stuck into headphone,what can i do to fix it?please help me as soon as possible
Hi @Tannaz pourian
If you are stuck on headphone mode first thing you can do is a quick fix if it works for you. You first turn off your iphone and with a gentle hand you can pull out any dirt or particals inside your headphone jack with a pin then clean it with a cotton bud with a little acitone or alcohol ( Don’t use too much of alcohol only little would be fine otherwise it could damage you display if it gets into your phone). Then after completing this process let it dry for a while and turn on your phone. I hope it works for you:) orthewise you have to replace your whole cc flex pannel. Good luck
I recently replaced the headphone jack but when I tried it out after successfully replacing it, the headphones still gave a crackling sound. Less than before but still very noticeable. Anyone have any suggestions to fix this issue?
On that last picture, we can see some kind of a black spacer, keeping the hole of the mic away from the body of the phone... When performing the lightning port replacement, I accidently threw that part away and now the bottom mic doesn't sit where it should so people I call can barely hear me. Anyone could point out where I can find that part? Been searching all around the web without any result! Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thanks
Try here http://www.3cparts.com/?goods=detail&id=... I don't know if it comes with the piece you need or not but it is worth a shot.
BJ Bures -
This guide saved me hundreds of dollars. thank you for a great job putting this together!! the i fixit tools were cheap and worth every penny. my iPhone 6 Plus now can be seen by the mac and syncs music like a champ. great sound quality on speaker mode and the headphones work great. charges like brand new.
just did it now it take around 25 minutes thanks so helpful page
amazing thanks so much
Thank you iFixit for the instructions and parts. I did this within less than an hour, and all due to the other times that I repaired older models throughout the years. iFixit has been invaluable to me in resurrection of my broken phone(s). Having pulled apart an iPhone 4 a few times, and an iPhone 5, this seemed much easier in comparison. But again, this is really all due to iFixit being around this long and providing top notch instructions, even for the novice. Thank you so much!
Fixed!!!
Ok, before you rush to the apple store or if brave enough, decide to do this yourself.
There are 3 small sprint loaded contacts inside the jacks, mine had some black marks on them, and there was no sound in the headphone.
Take a small piece of cotton and a straight thin tweezer or a toothpick, wet it lightly with mineral spirit, turpentine or alcohol. Stick it inside the jack and spin it/clean the contacts. Reset the phone and now it's like brand new.
They probably do the same thing at your local shop and charge you $100 bucks... The dirty best kept secret.
If the cotton ball get stock inside, don't panic. Stick the cotton in the middle and spin whatever you are using couple of rounds, the cotton will catch the tweezer, toothpick. It will also help if you slide the headphone jack along those contacts couple of times, sometime one of those spring get "stuck". Good luck!!
I've done this before and it's a easy 45 minute fix. Just a FYI some of the antennas are stuck to the guide around the speaker so don't pull very hard with your tweezers.
I also have a a crackling left headphone after this repair.
The left ear used to be dead, but after the fix it is back but distorting and crackling heavily.
Anyone have any ideas on what could be causing this?
Thank you very much
Done today with the iFixit tool kit, set of picks and iOpener, very simple work.
My problem was that the lightning connector was so consumed that it didn’t even properly connect anymore, making charging the phone a nightmare, and also the remote control on the headphones didn’t work anymore. Now everything works, it’s like new.
This guide made me save hundreds of euro, and (I hope) it extended the life of my iPhone 6 plus for another year.
Thanks iFixit!
My lightning connector and headphone jack are installed but when I plug it in, there seems to be no charge reaching the battery. What’s strange is that the iPhone is recognizing the lightning charger but there’s just no power reaching the battery. Any thoughts? Reopened and everything looks ok.
So like. All this and there's no tutorial on putting it back together?!
Pentalobe P2
Enea Del Lama - Réponse
I prefer to remove the SIM card as the very first step since it's safer to do so while the phone is fully assembled.
estebanfallasf - Réponse
I stripped one of the two screws - at a dead stop.
Margaret Patterson - Réponse
Before you even start: get the iOpener or hairdryer out. You’ll need it
GPZ - Réponse
If a lightning connector won’t provide a charge or needs to be wiggled carefully to provide a charge, power off the device, then try using precision tweezers to scrape the innermost wall of the lightning jack in a pinching motion to check for lint buildup. Pocket lint or other debris can accumulate inside the jack, compacting each time a cable is inserted. This can prevent a lightning cable from seating fully. Clearing the lint may restore functionality without replacing the part.
Andrew Dolan - Réponse
A few hints:
* heating up the phone works great. I used a heating pad that you put in the microwave to heat sports injuries.
* also, I made a sheet to help you keep track of the screws as you remove them. Print out the page, then place double sided tape below each color-coded listing of screws, and stick the screws to the tape as you disassemble. This helps prevent losing the screws and keeps track of what screws are what for easier reassembly. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1pLSvKvB...
Paul Faulstich - Réponse
Additional hints, for anyone who needs them:
* stick the screws to the tape in the same positions as they are shown in the guide. This will make it easier to identify them during reassembly.
* if the screws get mixed together, the ‘mm’ (millimetre, millimeter) measurements given in the guide can be used to identify them. Compare the lengths of the threaded shafts to each other to determine which screw is which.
Friendly Advice -