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Droit à la réparation

Pièces & Outils

Introduction

Suivez attentivement ces étapes afin de démonter ou remplacer la plaque de protection de l'écran LCD de votre iPhone 7.

Ouvrir votre iPhone 7 endommagera le joint de fermeture étanche de l'écran. Si vous ne remplacez pas le joint adhésif, votre téléphone fonctionnera normalement, mais ne sera plus étanche.

  1. Avant de commencer, déchargez la batterie de votre iPhone au dessous de 25%. Une batterie au lithium peut prendre feu et/ou exploser si elle est accidentellement percée.
    • Avant de commencer, déchargez la batterie de votre iPhone au dessous de 25%. Une batterie au lithium peut prendre feu et/ou exploser si elle est accidentellement percée.

    • Éteignez votre iPhone avant de commencer le démontage.

    • Retirez les deux vis Pentalobe de 3,4 mm qui se situent sur le bord inférieur de l'iPhone.

    • Ouvrir l'iPhone fera perdre son étanchéité à l'appareil. Préparez des nouveaux joints d'étanchéité avant de passer à l'étape suivante ou veillez à ne pas exposer votre iPhone à des liquides si vous ne remplacez pas les joints.

    Can anyone confirm 7/7P's pentalobe screws have a ring of seal near the screw head?

    Cooper Chase - Réponse

    Confirmed, the screws have a black ring seal around the head.

    rcheing - Réponse

    Can’t get the display front

    Bernadette Pfeifer - Réponse

    From personal experience, I highly recommend before doing this procedure or any other, that you do a backup of your phone (preferably local) in case your procedure goes south.

    ballina5ny - Réponse

    I purchased the repair tools with the replacement battery from iFixit. The tools include a screw driver and three heads none were labeled 3.4 mm. I think the one that fit the pentalobe screws was labeled Y000. The guide should identify the screw driver head supplied by the kit not 3.4mm.

    Mark Lieberman - Réponse

  2. Faire chauffer la partie inférieure de l'iPhone aide à ramollir la colle qui maintient l'écran et rend plus facile d'ouvrir l'appareil.
    • Faire chauffer la partie inférieure de l'iPhone aide à ramollir la colle qui maintient l'écran et rend plus facile d'ouvrir l'appareil.

    • Utilisez un sèche-cheveux, ou bien préparez un iOpener et posez-le sur la partie inférieure de l'iPhone. Patientez environ une minute, ceci fera ramollir l'adhésif en dessous.

    ¿Cuántos segundos son los recomendados?

    joscarlos91 - Réponse

    Sesenta segundos

    Krutav Shah -

    It is a process. I heated the lower area of the phone with a hair dryer on and off (1min each) about 3-4 times before I was able to get the provided tool in.

    Dan - Réponse

    I suggest using a hairdryer. I used the iOpener for maybe 30 mins to no avail. However, when I used the hairdryer the screen came of much quicker.

    Michael - Réponse

    I totally Mr. Myagi’ed it, by rubbing my hands together until they burned, then held the phone un my hot hands. I did this 5-6 times over a couple of minutes. It was a good zen way to get started!

    Ark - Réponse

    Can a heat gun be used?

    Lee - Réponse

    Absolutely. Just don’t overdo it—the adhesive usually softens up pretty easily. If you are experienced with a heat gun, you’ll have no problem. (If you are inexperienced, it’s easy to cook the display or cause other damage.)

    Jeff Suovanen -

    If i use this process, will iphone 7 still be sealed, water/ splash resist after that?

    Marius Serban - Réponse

    Opening the iPhone's display will compromise its waterproof seals. Have replacement seals ready before you proceed past this step, or take care to avoid liquid exposure if you reassemble your iPhone without replacing the seals.

    Angel Hermida -

    Can I use a cpb heating pad to soften the adhesive ? If yes how much time and temperature ?

    davidecongiu - Réponse

    Will doing this compromise the screen protector (Zagg) that I have on my phone?

    Eric Nance - Réponse

    Hairdryer worked for me but I needed to use a razor to pry it open at the bottom then used the spudger

    Gina Torres - Réponse

    Is there a reason why you wouldn’t put the iopener over the entire length of the phone, instead of just the bottom corner?

    BPX - Réponse

    The motherboard is extremely sensitive to heat.

    Neal Reasland -

    Hello can the head damage the id touch bottom?

    After heating opening it stoped working.

    Qrizmasex @ gmail . Com

    aratovski - Réponse

    It definitely can. That happened to me.

    Steve Naylor -

  3. Posez une ventouse sur la partie basse de l'écran, juste au-dessus du bouton home. Assurez-vous de ne pas poser la ventouse sur le bouton home, ceci empêcherait la ventouse d'adhérer à la vitre.
    • Posez une ventouse sur la partie basse de l'écran, juste au-dessus du bouton home.

    • Assurez-vous de ne pas poser la ventouse sur le bouton home, ceci empêcherait la ventouse d'adhérer à la vitre.

    • Si votre écran est méchamment fissuré, le couvrir de ruban adhésif transparent pourra aider la ventouse à adhérer. Sinon, une bande à fort pouvoir adhésif peut être utilisée à la place de la ventouse. Si rien ne fonctionne, vous pouvez coller la ventouse à la superglue sur l'écran cassé.

    The glass is completely cracked and the suction cup doesn't work because it gets air in between. any tip?

    Display is glued and doesn't come off.

    support - Réponse

    A wide, single strip of packing tape, well placed, will solve this for you. :)

    Mimic44444 - Réponse

    Last comment works well. Thank you !

    Using packing tape for a cracked screen should be included in the description in Step 3.

    Cracked screen is most probably the reason you are replacing it.

    Arni Benediktsson - Réponse

    I agree that using packing tape for a cracked screen should be included in this steps description. I don’t have wide but turned mine horizontal and that worked great.

    Mary Knapp - Réponse

    Bekomme die Oberschale einfach nicht runter! Trotz mehrmaligem erwärmen durch den iOpener und seitlichen bewegen! Weiß nicht mehr weiter!

    Stephan Lienhard - Réponse

    Wouldn’t that screw up the Touch ID?

    Rexx Havok - Réponse

  4. Tirez sur la ventouse pour créer un petit espace entre l'ensemble de l'écran et le boîtier arrière. Insérez l'extrémité plate d'une spatule (spudger) dans l'espace créé. L'adhésif étanche maintenant l'écran en place est très résistant, et créer ce premier espace demande de la force. Si vous avez des difficultés à ouvrir un interstice, bougez l'écran de bas en haut pour décoller l'adhésif jusqu'à ce que vous puissiez insérer une spatule (spudger).
    • Tirez sur la ventouse pour créer un petit espace entre l'ensemble de l'écran et le boîtier arrière.

    • Insérez l'extrémité plate d'une spatule (spudger) dans l'espace créé.

    • L'adhésif étanche maintenant l'écran en place est très résistant, et créer ce premier espace demande de la force. Si vous avez des difficultés à ouvrir un interstice, bougez l'écran de bas en haut pour décoller l'adhésif jusqu'à ce que vous puissiez insérer une spatule (spudger).

    This was SO hard for me to do with the spudger. I couldn’t get a gap to insert it because my phone was so cracked (even though I used tape on the front) to get a solid seal with the suction cup. I ended up taking a VERY thin knife and inserting it straight down to make the initial break that allowed me to insert the spudger.

    jessica harlow - Réponse

    I’ve given up using a plastic spudger to try to open any of these phones. I use a metal one with a flat base and a very sharp end…close to a razor. As long as I’m careful, it won’t slip and scratch the base. It’s much easier than using these plastic spudgers.

    mcr4u2 -

    I confirm that the plastic spudger it’s not the best tool for this operation. I suggest to use a larger metal tool like a “Jimmy” or “iSesamo open tool” (I used the first one)

    Cristef -

    Im trying to get the screen off right now and my phone is not cracked and its still a pain

    Jordon Johnson - Réponse

    Using a blow dryer was extremely helpful and using the suction cup towards one of the lower edges was also helpful

    Jordon Johnson - Réponse

    This is not working for me. How long does the heat need to be applied? Still trying right now…. =/

    Chris Gallego - Réponse

    Apply hair dryer for at least 1 minute. I inserted the tip end of a thin mini screwdriver and with some force, pryed it open and inserted my plastic spudger to continue the separation process. It worked, just be patient.

    Please wear protective glasses! My iPhone glass was severely cracked, when separating the glass a corner area of broken glass exploded in my face. Apply transparent tape over the broken glass to contain the shards.

    amberron - Réponse

    I second Jessica’s January 8 comment.  I just finished a battery replacement on my iPhone 7 and this step was the most nerve-wracking part.  I ended up using a sharper (but not razor-sharp) metal object to get this done with confidence (tried the spudger and guitar pick but not thin enough).  The tool I used was the exact duplicate of what iFixIt calls “iSesamo Opening Tool” in their tool selection.  I did the heat up with a hair dryer (after attempts with an iOpener hot pad) and the secret (as Jessica also noted)  was to not use the angle of attack shown in the pictures, but to push it in more vertically along the bottom edge while pulling up on the suction cup.  From there you can easily lever the tool to the lower angle-of-attack (as shown in the picture).  I actually used the metal tool for most of the perimeter as well, just don’t go deep (you don’t need to).  Notes: my display was intact, and I was able to pull up fairly hard with a glass screen protector still on it.

    Ted - Réponse

    This is frustrating. I heated the lower edge with a hair dryer for 1 min on high about 3-4 times. In between each heat cycle, I rocked the suction cup back and forth. I was eventually able to create significant space for the provided tool. This takes a lot of patience. Once the space was created, it was very easy to remove the screen.

    Dan - Réponse

    use a fingernail, then the blue tool, then the spudger

    Therese Peffer - Réponse

    The iOpener worked just fine for me. Had to keep it on for a few minutes. I also was able to get the suction cup seal right close to the edge, over top of the home button for added leverage. Used the blue tool and transitioned to the spudger. Slow, steady pressure…and patience. ;)

    johnhall918 - Réponse

    Unable to open an iPhone 7 display assembly. Used gell pack at 150 degrees F. The phone wouldn’t budge when I used the iFixit suction cut. Part of the problem is that the cup doesn’t adhere for long before it looses suction. I suspect it would work better on unbroken glass, but that doesn’t help me now. After spending a lot of time at this, I changed heating methods to a hot air heater. I raised the temp of the bottom end of the phone to, ultimately, 175 degrees, and used a variety of tools to try to pry the glass apart enough to get a spudger (or anything) in, but it didn’t even lift enough for a double-edged razor blade to get in. I’ve been trying this for hours now, and about to give up and throw a lot more money at this to have a service perform the work. I figured that 175 was as high as I should need to go to soften the adhesive without damaging the electronics. Should I have gone higher? I see no mention of measured temps in any instructions or comments.

    ted - Réponse

    Have you tried applying tape to the broken screen? This will help a lot with keeping the suction cup on it.

    Christian Groothuis -

    It doesn’t need to get very hot; pulling up on the display is mainly what does the trick. Make sure the two pentalobe screws have been removed and then try the tricks in this step. If all else fails, superglue the suction cup to your display and let it cure, and then pull. Keep in mind you only need a tiny gap to insert a plastic pick and start cutting the adhesive. Good luck!

    Jeff Suovanen -

    Just a question. After this operation the impermeability function was compromitted?

    bentek86 - Réponse

    The trick I found, was to add packing tape right across the bottom over the home button then use hairdryer on the end, then suction cup on the very bottom and it lifted enough to get a gap. No one mentioned how it would be impossible to handle the phone after the hairdryer ;)

    Andrew Lansdowne - Réponse

    Didn’t have an iOpener and 60 seconds on a hairdryer wasn’t doing it for me. Still wouldn’t budge. I had to take a very sharp razor along the seam at the bottom between the speakers. It took about 20 passes for it to separate enough to get the spudger in. Make sure you keep the razor at a 90-45˚ angle and that it goes no more than 1-2mm into the phone. The bottom of the phone is metal, but the casing for the screen is plastic. So if you cut lower than a 45˚ (flat with the phone) you risk cutting into the casing. Apply light pressure when making the passes. I would just do the razor on the flat part on the bottom.

    minimalist - Réponse

    I used a hair drier while lifting up at the same time until I could get the too inside. The seal is pretty finicky. Just take your time and you should be fine. Work the hair drier and the tool all the way around before lifting the screen up and off. There will likely be sealant stuck between the screen and phone. You can just break it with the tool.

    Ray Bieze - Réponse

    This step was impossible for me despite using a blow dryer and having no cracks on the screen. I finally took it to a local repair place and had them do battery replacements for two iPhone 7’s. The girl let me watch her do it. She used a razor blade (just until she had a small opening that she could hold open with her fingernail) and confirmed that she too would have difficulty opening it with a plastic tool and suction cup. The plastic tool was great for prying the rest of it open once a crack was there, but she said she would never try to use that as the tool to initially open it. The tools provided for initially prying open the screen are inadequate.

    Chad Twedt - Réponse

    Hopeless - no chance to get the screen off without any damage. No matter what tools, heat etc.

    Anatole Beams - Réponse

    I second what others have said, definitely use a razor blade to break the seal! Heat helps some, but too much direct heat is bad for the screen. Would have been impossible if I hadn’t read the comments, thanks everybody!

    Kit - Réponse

  5. Glissez le spudger vers la gauche le long du bord inférieur de l'iPhone. Tournez le spudger pour agrandir l'espace entre le boîtier arrière et l'écran. Tournez le spudger pour agrandir l'espace entre le boîtier arrière et l'écran.
    • Glissez le spudger vers la gauche le long du bord inférieur de l'iPhone.

    • Tournez le spudger pour agrandir l'espace entre le boîtier arrière et l'écran.

    Didn’t have an iOpener and 60 seconds on a hairdryer wasn’t doing it for me. Still wouldn’t budge. I had to take a very sharp razor along the seam at the bottom between the speakers. It took about 20 passes for it to separate enough to get the spudger in. Make sure you keep the razor at a 90-45˚ angle and that it goes no more than 1-2mm into the phone. The bottom of the phone is metal, but the casing for the screen is plastic. So if you cut lower than a 45˚ (flat with the phone) you risk cutting into the casing. Apply light pressure when making the passes. I would just do the razor on the flat part on the bottom.

    minimalist - Réponse

    I used a hairdryer and a razor

    Gina Torres - Réponse

    The photos are a con. You cannot get a spudger in unless you can lift the screen. You cannot lift the screen because of the adhesive. Using a anything metal will damage the paintwork or the glass edge.

    Anatole Beams - Réponse

    I agree, these guides are half imaginary idealism it seems. A thin metal edge pushed vertically down just a fraction of a mm will cause the adhesive to weaken better than any amount of heat, but affects the final appearance sadly.

    Jesse de Vries - Réponse

  6. Faites glisser la spatule le long du côté gauche en commençant par le bord inférieur et en travaillant vers les boutons de contrôle du volume et le commutateur du silencieux. Ne faites pas levier le long du bord supérieur de l'écran, vous risqueriez d'endommager les clips en plastique qui fixent l'écran. Ne faites pas levier le long du bord supérieur de l'écran, vous risqueriez d'endommager les clips en plastique qui fixent l'écran.
    • Faites glisser la spatule le long du côté gauche en commençant par le bord inférieur et en travaillant vers les boutons de contrôle du volume et le commutateur du silencieux.

    • Ne faites pas levier le long du bord supérieur de l'écran, vous risqueriez d'endommager les clips en plastique qui fixent l'écran.

    Be VERY careful on this next step going up the right side of the phone. There is a ribbon cable 1/3 of the way up from the bottom that is very close to the edge. Do NOT use the blue triangle!!!! Just lightly rotate the spudger to get separation on the edge.

    Timothy Varvais - Réponse

  7. Insérez l'extrémité plate d'une spatule (spudger) dans le coin inférieur droit de l'appareil. Bougez la spatule pour agrandir l'espace entre l'écran et le boîtier arrière. Faites glisser la spatule le long du bord droit du téléphone tout en défaisant l'adhésif qui maintient l'écran.
    • Insérez l'extrémité plate d'une spatule (spudger) dans le coin inférieur droit de l'appareil.

    • Bougez la spatule pour agrandir l'espace entre l'écran et le boîtier arrière.

    • Faites glisser la spatule le long du bord droit du téléphone tout en défaisant l'adhésif qui maintient l'écran.

    • Surtout, n'insérez pas la spatule plus profondément que la bande adhésive, pour éviter d'endommager les nappes très fragiles du côté droit.

  8. Tirez sur la ventouse pour soulever l'écran et ouvrir l'iPhone. Evitez de soulever l'écran à plus de 10°, des nappes relient l'écran à la carte mère le long du bord droit de l'appareil.
    • Tirez sur la ventouse pour soulever l'écran et ouvrir l'iPhone.

    • Evitez de soulever l'écran à plus de 10°, des nappes relient l'écran à la carte mère le long du bord droit de l'appareil.

    do not pull up pull sideways it will brake

    Riley Patterson - Réponse

    Made this mistake

    rachael.grime - Réponse

    Somehow my phone turned itself back on during the opening. Scared me a little, like a patient coming out of anesthesia during the operation. I was able to turn it back off. Gotta be more careful where you grab this thing.

    Bryant Larsen - Réponse

  9. Tirez sur la petite bosse afin de séparer la ventouse du panneau frontal.
    • Tirez sur la petite bosse afin de séparer la ventouse du panneau frontal.

  10. Faites glisser un médiator le long du bord supérieur de l'iPhone, entre le boîtier arrière et le panneau frontal pour briser l'adhésif restant qui maintient l'écran en place. Veillez à ne pas endommager les clips en plastique sur le bord supérieur du téléphone.
    • Faites glisser un médiator le long du bord supérieur de l'iPhone, entre le boîtier arrière et le panneau frontal pour briser l'adhésif restant qui maintient l'écran en place.

    • Veillez à ne pas endommager les clips en plastique sur le bord supérieur du téléphone.

    The plastic clips mentioned are on the top of the screen being replaced… so not sure why it matters not to break them. Trick here was to pull the screen downwards to open a gap at the top and then insert as shown and raise to break the seal.

    Andrew Lansdowne - Réponse

    This is relevant for other guides than the display replacement guide.

    jvalaamo -

  11. Eloignez légèrement l'écran complet du bord supérieur du téléphone pour dégager les clips le maintenant au boîtier arrière. Ouvrez l'iPhone en pivotant l'écran vers le haut en partant du côté gauche comme la couverture d'un livre. N'essayez pas encore de séparer l'écran complètement, car il y restent plusieurs nappes fragiles qui le relient à la carte mère de l'iPhone.
    • Eloignez légèrement l'écran complet du bord supérieur du téléphone pour dégager les clips le maintenant au boîtier arrière.

    • Ouvrez l'iPhone en pivotant l'écran vers le haut en partant du côté gauche comme la couverture d'un livre.

    • N'essayez pas encore de séparer l'écran complètement, car il y restent plusieurs nappes fragiles qui le relient à la carte mère de l'iPhone.

    I just broke the cable to the battery!

    No Bama - Réponse

    same dude im such a freak lol omg haha

    Aiden Polaski - Réponse

    Are there replacements ribbons?

    Blax Bently - Réponse

    Has anyone else noticed very small squares of rubber with a circle cut through it (I think they fall off into the phone when dismantling)?

    I just replaced my screen and worked out that these are actually a wee pocket that slips over the pentalobe screw holes on the replacement screen. I’m not sure if it’s an additional water resisting mechanism or if it’s to add additional traction for the screws

    richarddillon - Réponse

    Thanks, I was wondering where those were from!

    Albert -

    I just broke cable connecting camera and earpiece speaker to logic board. Be careful with it.

    Natan Haładyn - Réponse

    This section is missing a critical step - to lay some Post-It notes or something below the right half of the phone when you swing it open, so the ribbon cables don’t get sliced by the sharp edge of the phone case. I broke the Home Button ribbon cable because there was no strain relief when I laid it open.

    neila - Réponse

    I also broke the home button cable and now I have to use assistive touch.

    Laurencio Gonzalez - Réponse

    Keep the suction cup on the display to keep it propped up while you disconnect the ribbon cables.

    minimalist - Réponse

    I broke the short ribbon cable that attaches underneath the lower connector bracket. Be SURE when you lift the display, you do it from left to right. I thought I had the phone oriented correctly in my hand, but I was mistaken.

    John Murray - Réponse

    Put the suction cup on the right side of the middle of the screen when you rotate it up and out. It serves as a nice stand to take the pressure off the connectors.

    Ray Bieze - Réponse

    no mention of what you do once u open the book. are the ribbons long enough to lie flat  or do we have to keep screen raised while removing screws,, like when we hold screen up 45 degrees while removing 5 screw plat when at top of phone. I only realised how fragile the ribbons are and how important it is to use suction  cup to rest screen on an angle so ribbons don't stretch or cut on frame.

    thanks for the above comments and probably the most important section. I just hope I closed t before I fdid any damage. its lke the fragility of iPhone 3’s all over again.

    scallyteacher - Réponse

    • Enlevez du support du connecteur inférieur les quatre vis tri-point Y000 aux longueurs suivantes :

    • Trois vis de 1,2 mm

    • Une vis de 2,4 mm

    • Tout au long de la réparation, gardez la trace de chaque vis et assurez-vous de la revisser exactement là où elle était pour éviter d'endommager votre iPhone.

    Ahhh shoot! accidentally ordered tri-wing vs tri-point (must have just looked for y000).. It seems they only did this to annoy repair folks because not everything is tri-point on the phone...

    Steve - Réponse

    These screws just spin for me. They don't back out, but the heads aren't stripped either. I've tried applying backpressure to help lift the screws, but no luck

    Jeff Hurst - Réponse

    The Y000 took out one of the screws but not the other 3. I even tried the PH000 as suggested but nothing.

    dbright - Réponse

    What driver do I need to remove these screws i’m stuck

    Nasser Nader - Réponse

    i cant use, the Y000 it isnt working.

    joscarlos91 - Réponse

    What if I stripped a screw what do I do??

    Jacob Ramos - Réponse

    Yep, only the 2.4mm came out, other 3 won’t budge, and worried I’ve stripped the heads. Anyone got any ideas?

    Stephen Babbage - Réponse

    It’s the screwdriver bit that is the problem. I had the same issue with 2 Y000 bits not grabbing the screw properly. I fixed it by using a small 3 sided file to slightly grind the groves in the Y000 bit just a bit deeper. Then the bit worked like a charm on these screws.

    Jim Staples - Réponse

    Use Y000 on all 4. U have to be very sensitive on the 1.2mm screws. Put the bit in the screw, put the left pointing finger on top of the screwdriver and turn the driver carefully to the right until you feel a “bump”, thats the trick :-), then you are able to screw the screw out.

    Magne Eivindson - Réponse

    For me the key here was a LOT of downward pressure to ensure the Y000 bit caught in the screw. Not sure i can describe how much exactly, but is was significant. Otherwise the bit would not catch.

    Erik Fredriksen - Réponse

    What do I do if I Stripped one of them?

    Adam Corral - Réponse

    Can’t get them removed what to do ?

    cowling_luke - Réponse

    Managed to get the central one out. The upper one won't move, the lower one I've popped out with some force. This allows you to rotate the cover enough to unplug the various bits. Not ideal, but works. I've tried applying a lot of pressure, using the tighten/ loosen method, but the heads have just got mashed… no wonder Samsung are now No1, sigh…

    jimpoolio - Réponse

    You need to be careful when just rotating the cover as you can accidentally slice through the two black antennas! You only need to nip them…As you can tell I have done this in the past :/

    Kyle Webb -

    The first, longer screw came out fine, but the other three wouldn’t budge, regardless of more/less pressure or a slight angle or anything. I finally filed down the tip of the Y000 bit ever so slightly, and then it worked. Hope this helps someone.

    Harmony Vine - Réponse

    Filing down the bit worked for me. The tip about putting an index finger on the end of the screwdriver handles and then turning gently until it clicks into place was very helpful! Using these 2 tips I didn't need much downward pressure. Screws are out in a few turns.

    Chris Bennett - Réponse

    If you can’t get the bit to grip the screw properly, you can use a little bit of the water-proof sealing between the bit and the screw. That worked for me. Hope this helps anyone.

    jvalaamo - Réponse

    Mine came out easily. I placed the screws in the area where the bit goes in my kit so I can keep track.

    Gina Torres - Réponse

    I used a bunch of medicine cups to track my screws. You need like 12 if you want them all in cups. I ran out. There are so many different sizes that literally vary by 1mm. The tolerances on these things are tight.

    Ray Bieze - Réponse

    I use a 28 day pill box and keep every screw separate and reburn to exact slot because they all vary in length, width and can really damage u phone if too long and nt secure if to small.  use a magnetised screwdriver,  or make the cheap freebees magnetic for a short period by rubbing it up an a magnet. lol

    scallyteacher - Réponse

    Absolutely ridiculous had to go get a different one just stupid

    mark golling - Réponse

  12. Retirez le support du connecteur inférieur.
    • Retirez le support du connecteur inférieur.

    my battery cable connector was stuck to the bottom of this metal bracket plate so be careful when you lift it off

    Josh Martin - Réponse

    This may have been intentionally done by Apple to make sure the battery gets disconnected before any other connector is disconnected. So always make sure to disconnect the battery before disconnecting and reconnecting the connectors for the display.

    Oscar Moreno - Réponse

  13. Manta Driver Kit

    112 bits for every fix.

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    Manta Driver Kit

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  14. Utilisez la pointe d'une spatule (spudger) pour soulever le connecteur de la batterie de sa prise sur la carte mère. Pliez légèrement la nappe du connecteur vers le haut pour éviter un contact avec la prise ce qui risquerait d'alimenter le téléphone. Pliez légèrement la nappe du connecteur vers le haut pour éviter un contact avec la prise ce qui risquerait d'alimenter le téléphone.
    • Utilisez la pointe d'une spatule (spudger) pour soulever le connecteur de la batterie de sa prise sur la carte mère.

    • Pliez légèrement la nappe du connecteur vers le haut pour éviter un contact avec la prise ce qui risquerait d'alimenter le téléphone.

    Was kann passieren wenn man diesses Kabel vergessen hat zu entfernen `?

    Julian Eltrich - Réponse

  15. Assurez-vous que la batterie est déconnectée avant de déconnecter ou reconnecter les nappes de cette étape. Utilisez l'extrémité plate d'un spudger ou un ongle pour débrancher les deux connecteurs inférieurs de l'écran en les tirant tout droit hors de leur prise sur la carte mère. Pour reconnecter ces nappes, appuyez sur une extrémité jusqu'à ce qu'elle s'enclenche, puis répétez avec l'autre extrémité. Ne pas appuyer sur le milieu. Si le connecteur est même légèrement en désalignement, le connecteur peut se plier, causant des dommages permanents.
    • Assurez-vous que la batterie est déconnectée avant de déconnecter ou reconnecter les nappes de cette étape.

    • Utilisez l'extrémité plate d'un spudger ou un ongle pour débrancher les deux connecteurs inférieurs de l'écran en les tirant tout droit hors de leur prise sur la carte mère.

    • Pour reconnecter ces nappes, appuyez sur une extrémité jusqu'à ce qu'elle s'enclenche, puis répétez avec l'autre extrémité. Ne pas appuyer sur le milieu. Si le connecteur est même légèrement en désalignement, le connecteur peut se plier, causant des dommages permanents.

    • Si l'écran reste vierge, des lignes blanches apparaissent ou que le retour tactile manque complètement ou partiellement après que vous ayez remonté votre téléphone, essayez de déconnecter et reconnecter ces deux nappes, puis vérifiez qu'elles sont bien enclenchées.

    To be honest you don’t really need to disconnect the display cables in step 15 or 16 to get the battery out. Just keep the suction cup on the screen to keep it propped up and to give the cables some slack. The only reason to take these cables off is that it’s a pain to apply the replacement display adhesive with those cables in the way. If you’re not re-waterproofing your phone just leave these attached.

    Remplacement des bandes adhésives fixant l'écran d'un iPhone

    minimalist - Réponse

    MAKE SURE you hold the top screen when dislodging the cable connections. I let the screen lie flat down and ended up tearing one of the cable connections, now my touch ID does not work at all! I’m going to have to order a whole new screen.

    Arjun Nagarajan - Réponse

  16. Retirez les deux vis cruciformes de 1,3 mm fixant le support sur le connecteur de l'ensemble capteur du panneau avant. Retirez le support. Retirez le support.
    • Retirez les deux vis cruciformes de 1,3 mm fixant le support sur le connecteur de l'ensemble capteur du panneau avant.

    • Retirez le support.

    Has anyone had trouble getting these two screws off? I’ve been working on these for about 10 minutes and the LEFT screw wont spin. It seems like the little PH000 screwdriver bit won’t even grip it. (The one of the right comes off, no problem)

    It looks like I’ll have to pick this project up again with a screwdriver that will actually take off this piece.

    Makana Sylva - Réponse

    The right screw kept spinning, tried different levels of force but didn’t work. I left the screw on and bent the shield to get to the cable.

    s h - Réponse

    I used a #1 flat head tip to loosen.

    Peter Pearson - Réponse

    I couldn’t get the two screws out either—used the correct screw tip and everything. Stripped the screw. Will now attempt to just keep the cable attached…..

    Therese Peffer - Réponse

    Use the PH000 and apply a little more force before spinning, should come right out!

    Sierra Scolaro - Réponse

    ^To anyone having trouble, this is the correct answer. Put the phone on a firm surface, align your driver carefully, press down hard, and twist. As long as your driver is approximately the right size, it’ll come out.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    the two screw i have are stripped and i have n way of getting either screws off whats my next bet

    Alexis Marie Colon - Réponse

    The PH000 bit is to large. I can’t get the screws out either which really sucks…now I have to put everything back together, find another bit that will work and try this again another day. Not impressed with IFIXIT’s attention to detail so far :-(

    Ryan Welborn - Réponse

    Using iFixit’s driver kit, I prefer a PH00 for this, which is larger than the PH000. If you think the PH000 is too big, something is wrong.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    I think part of the issue with the iFixit PH000 is that it is slightly too pointy. The PH00 fits better because the splines engage the slots of the screw before the point bottoms out. The PH000 tip bottoms out in the screw’s center point and the splines don’t engage as well. I have other PH000 tips that are more blunt nose and they work better than the iFixit bit.

    rcarswell - Réponse

    Use the J00 bit. Worked perfectly

    efazio588 - Réponse

    PH000 screwdriver didn’t work for any of these screws, or the barometric vent, or the taptic engine. It was too big. I had to use a different screwdriver from another kit I had.

    minimalist - Réponse

    I’d do this step before removing the ribbon cables by the battery connector. That way you can disconnect all of them at the same time.

    Ray Bieze - Réponse

    i used the little +-shape 30 mm screwdriver (not the Y…but the + shape).

    mason - Réponse

    the cable tore. is that it i need a new phone?

    patricia loving - Réponse

  17. Débranchez le connecteur de l'ensemble capteur du panneau avant, de sa prise sur la carte mère. Ce connecteur à pression devrait également être reconnecté une extrémité à la fois pour minimiser le risque de flexion.
    • Débranchez le connecteur de l'ensemble capteur du panneau avant, de sa prise sur la carte mère.

    • Ce connecteur à pression devrait également être reconnecté une extrémité à la fois pour minimiser le risque de flexion.

    Das ist sehr mutig, das Kabel dort so zu strapazieren.

    Mich würde das Display daneben stellen und mit irgendetwas stützen, dass es nicht umkippen kann um Beschädigungen an dem Kabel zu vermeiden. Das reißt sehr schnell ein.

    Detlef Menninger - Réponse

    Is this the connector for the earpiece, as well? I did the screen replacement and everything worked, except now I can’t use my earpiece… I’m afraid I didn’t fully connect this particular portion.

    Victor Bui - Réponse

    @victorbui714 Correct, this is also the connector for the earpiece speaker. Check the flex cable carefully and make sure it wasn’t pinched or torn. Make sure the connector socket is clean (give it a blast with some compressed air if needed) and try reseating it. If that doesn’t help, you may want to remove the earpiece speaker and inspect the four springs on the back, and check that they’re intact and making good contact with the four circular pads on the flex cable. Give the pads a wipe with some IPA and try not to leave any skin oils on them. If none of that works, try replacing the entire flex cable/sensor assembly. Good luck!

    Jeff Suovanen -

  18. Retirez l'écran complet.

    When removing the screen, be aware of the two tiny square black rubber grommets on the Penelope screw brackets that secure the screen. They can fall off very easily and be lost without even knowing it (it happened to me, but was lucky enough to find them).

    Guy Cooley - Réponse

    Sorry, I’m so unclear about when to replace the Adhesive tape. Should I put the iPhone 7 Display Assembly Adhesive at this step, or after I’ve replaced the battery?

    Victor Bui - Réponse

    @victorbui714 Battery first, then adhesive during reassembly, as it says in the instructions. ;)

    Jeff Suovanen -

    This is the 3rd screen iv put in my phone and everyone them bust at the top by the camera every time iv bought one of these screen idk if it’s the manufactures fault or what?

    trent bost - Réponse

    @trentb28922 Ouch! That’s not normal. Is your phone’s frame bent? Are you having to use a lot of force when you install the display?

    Jeff Suovanen -

  19. Retirez les quatre vis Y000 maintenant le cache du capteur home/Touch ID :
    • Retirez les quatre vis Y000 maintenant le cache du capteur home/Touch ID :

    • Une vis de 1,1 mm

    • Trois vis de 1,3 mm

    • Lors du remontage, veillez à ne pas serrer ces vis trop fort. Sinon, votre bouton home risque de ne plus fonctionner.

    Why is the screw over top of the home button so difficult to get out… has anyone else experienced this..? This is twice now I've struggled to get that screw

    Brandon - Réponse

    The screw to the left holding the heatshield is never mentioned in this guide

    Beerbo - Réponse

    No reason to touch that screw unless you’re removing the shield—in which case, this step instructs you to remove it.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    So I stripped the screw furthest to the left, how can i possibly remove it now? Can I just buy a new LCD shield and home bracket button and screw and will that work just fine on the new screen replacement? this stripped screw of mine is not coming out

    Bryan Ferrer - Réponse

    That should work, as long as you can still get the home button/sensor out without damage. For removing a stripped screw this size, I’d probably try supergluing it to the driver—or else just drill the top of the screw off and then remove the bracket, leaving the screw shaft embedded in the old display. Good luck!

    Jeff Suovanen -

    I used the same driver for all of these screws. Had to apply a lot of pressure before trying to unscrew it and it was fine.

    jessica harlow - Réponse

    This is wrong, the size you need is Y00 for the 1.1mm screws and Y000 for the 1.3mm one.

    Robert Clark - Réponse

    The heads on those screws are identical. I’ve never had any trouble using a Y000 for all of them. Use whatever works for you I guess.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    I’ve managed to strip the screw on the right hand side - not the far right, just right of the home button. Any ideas on how to get it out without glue (I don’t have any)

    Christie Ellen - Réponse

    My screwdriver is too big to get out the screws

    Coolinee Kerman - Réponse

    My eyesight isn’t what it used to be. That said, the replacement screen that arrived already had screws in the two outside positions. It took me a minute to figure this out when I was trying to install the home button. I couldn’t figure out why the screws weren’t going in. I thought the holes were filled or something… Nope. screws. Took them out and used them.. all good.

    Critter - Réponse

    My 7 had quite a bit of loctite holding these bad boys on. I stripped the one to the right of the home button and after using many “sentence enhancers” I was able to remove it using good tweezers and quite a bit of hand strength. I think that heating up the screws here is not an option because the cables lie underneath the plate and would probably get damaged from the amount of heat needed to loosen the loctite. Be patient here, and maybe have spare Y000 drivers because you may damage your driver getting these screws out.

    P Park - Réponse

    If your having trouble. I recommend you guys to buy the Y00o driver at amazon. It look golden. It works very will .

    Jonathan curz - Réponse

    Read instead of: “Remove the four Y000 screws”. “Remove the four Philips 00 screws”. Thats the case what occurs to me.

    Henk - Réponse

    Hi all, I’m really hoping someone will be able to give me a hand here, so the 1.1mm screw on top of the home button is stripped, and absolutely refuses to get out. I have tried the superglue technique mentioned and am worried it may have even glued the screw to the bracket. The only solution I can think of is to bend the home button bracket on either side of the middle screw, and use the bracket itself to remove the screw from the home button. I have ordered a new home button bracket either way, does anybody have any other ideas? Should I even attempt what I am proposing?

    Thanks in Advance.

    llamalulu42 - Réponse

    This worked for me take a Stanley blade and saw a grove across the screw with the edge ofcourse then heat the home button with hair dryer for a couple of minutes take the blade and press it into the groove you scored and turn it

    Paul -

    Does the ground strap go over or under bracket?

    Marcos Polos - Réponse

    over the bracket

    David Proudman -

    my home button does not work anymore! do you know why?

    josé - Réponse

    I magically used an X-acto knife tip to lift the edges of the home button screw to loosen it, and then turned it slightly with the X-acto blade tip in the screw slot to get it started, then the 000 screwdriver could finish it.

    Jim Pflasterer - Réponse

    I can’t stress how important it is to not overtighten the one on the button. I undertightened the center one at first in fear, and then tightened it more when I realized the button was loose. It ended up ruining the home button :(

    Brendon Parker - Réponse

    I was completely unable to get the screw directly over the homebutton off. I definitely stripped it some. Here’s some tips!

    1. If you are trying to unscrew and it skips instead of locking in—STOP. Apply more pressure, and then try again. Keep doing this until it comes out. If you continue turning without doing anything, you’ll strip the head of the screw and end up in a way worse situation.

    2. If your screw is stripped, first try putting a rubber band between the screwdriver and the screw to fill the gap. Duct tape has worked for many people as well.

    3. If you can’t get the screw directly above the home button off of the home button, I found this video that shows how to remove the home button without unscrewing the screw!! Bend the protective plate up 90° on both sides of the home button so the bent plate now fits through the home button hole. Then you can continue to

    the next steps and remove the home button with the plate still attached to it.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DTCQA-jn...

    silas - Réponse

    Don’t know if I did something wrong, but the home button no longer works. I’ll see if I can get someone to repair it.

    David Proudman - Réponse

    Found a software workaround, go to General > Accessibility > Assistive Touch. Now you don’t need the home button to work to use the phone

    David Proudman -

  20. Retirez le cache maintenant le capteur home/Touch ID en place.
    • Retirez le cache maintenant le capteur home/Touch ID en place.

  21. Faites levier sous le bord gauche du connecteur de la nappe du bouton home pour le débrancher de sa prise. Si tout le connecteur commence à se soulever sans se détacher, appuyez sur la nappe en haut du connecteur avec le bout plat de votre spatule (spudger) en même temps que vous soulevez le bord gauche du connecteur. Faites très attention à n'abîmer ni la nappe ni le connecteur, vous endommageriez le capteur de façon irréversible. Si tout le connecteur commence à se soulever sans se détacher, appuyez sur la nappe en haut du connecteur avec le bout plat de votre spatule (spudger) en même temps que vous soulevez le bord gauche du connecteur. Faites très attention à n'abîmer ni la nappe ni le connecteur, vous endommageriez le capteur de façon irréversible.
    • Faites levier sous le bord gauche du connecteur de la nappe du bouton home pour le débrancher de sa prise.

    • Si tout le connecteur commence à se soulever sans se détacher, appuyez sur la nappe en haut du connecteur avec le bout plat de votre spatule (spudger) en même temps que vous soulevez le bord gauche du connecteur. Faites très attention à n'abîmer ni la nappe ni le connecteur, vous endommageriez le capteur de façon irréversible.

    Well, I just damaged the home button connector in step 31. It is completely off the cable. What now? Can I buy this home button?

    LadyTech - Réponse

    I think you can not do it because your phone is not identify for new cable.

    Ali Alsaed - Réponse

    Best thing to do here is to NOT pry up on the connector, but to insert the pry tool on the left side until the connector is dislodged.

    Oscar Moreno - Réponse

    Good tip. Worked perfectly. Thx.

    Klaus M -

    That worked perfectly, thank you!

    Emily Kretschmer -

    use one pry tool to hold down, another to pull up.

    Christa - Réponse

    I did it. :-( i broke it

    Peter Keller - Réponse

    Anyone having difficulty reconnecting the two ? I’ve been trying for ages with no luck.

    Patrick McKenna - Réponse

    Same problem here - can reconnect them once the new LCD is being installed. Not sure what the trick is.

    edcraigslistaccount -

    my Homebutton don´t work after I reconnect all, I checked all flex cables but it still dont work. what can I do?

    Dr. Dieter - Réponse

    so, i’m working on an iPhone 7. I was very careful not to break anything, I even bought an iOpener heat pack and applied it, and everything went off without a hitch, but when I tested the button, It does not work, would it help to reconnect it or something?

    Thanks a lot!

    Peter Keller - Réponse

    iPhone 7 home “buttons” can be really fussy. You’ll find some good troubleshooting tips here and here. Hope this helps!

    Jeff Suovanen -

    Broke my cable. The picture is not clear but you have to separate the thin silver end of cable from what looks like a black piece of rubber. I pulled up on it from under the black rubber like the picture shows and broke mine.

    bart.hutchings - Réponse

    This helped me SO much. Watch it before removing home button. Around 4:56ish

    https://youtu.be/An9kUJshRjA

    Gina Torres - Réponse

    Thank you so much!

    Jakob Kloppenborg -

    Well, I just damaged the home button connector in step 21. It is completely off the cable. What now? Can I buy this connector ?

    dima shynin - Réponse

    I’m having a really hard time reconnecting the two together. Any advice?

    Ben Carter - Réponse

    I used the tweezers in step 21 to separate this connector. I squeezed the tweezers shut then put the flat edge of the points between the connector and slowly released the tweezers. The connector separated really easy.

    sschaffer - Réponse

  22. Faites délicatement levier sur le connecteur qui se trouve en dessous et écartez-le de la nappe du capteur home/Touch ID. Il est très facile d'abîmer votre iPhone au cours de cette étape. Progressez lentement et faites attention aux endroits où vous faites levier. Si vous endommagez  le matériel Touch ID, seul Apple pourra effectuer la réparation.
    • Faites délicatement levier sur le connecteur qui se trouve en dessous et écartez-le de la nappe du capteur home/Touch ID.

    • Il est très facile d'abîmer votre iPhone au cours de cette étape. Progressez lentement et faites attention aux endroits où vous faites levier. Si vous endommagez le matériel Touch ID, seul Apple pourra effectuer la réparation.

    • Si le connecteur ne se soulève pas facilement, prenez un sèche-cheveux ou un iOpener pour faire chauffer et ramollir l'adhésif qui fixe le connecteur, puis réessayez.

    • N'essayez pas de détacher complètement le connecteur à pression, séparez-le simplement de l'adhésif qui le maintient en place.

    Make sure that you fold this cable out when fitting your replacement before you fasten the shield back down. I didn’t but managed to loosen 2 screws on the shield to get the cable out.

    chris_sawyer - Réponse

    If you have isopropyl alcohol on hand. You can use it to help weaken the adhesive temporarily when lifting up the adhered home button.

    Ben - Réponse

    Just one tiny drop of isopropyl alcohol or it will reach the lcd screen.

    Stefano Restuccia -

    Heat is absolutely vital during this step. Care should be taken and you should work very slowly. A new playing card will be useful in separating the ribbon from the device, using heat periodically to soften the adhesive as you go along. The ribbon cable changes size between the connector and the button, creating a weak area that can begin to rip if stressed. Use a card flat against the frame to slowly separate the cable from the frame.

    Benji - Réponse

  23. Chauffer la zone tout autour du capteur home/Touch ID contribuera à ramollir l'adhésif fixant la nappe fragile de ce capteur. Il sera alors plus facile de la retirer en toute sécurité.
    • Chauffer la zone tout autour du capteur home/Touch ID contribuera à ramollir l'adhésif fixant la nappe fragile de ce capteur. Il sera alors plus facile de la retirer en toute sécurité.

    • Retournez l'ensemble écran. Servez-vous d'un sèche-cheveux ou préparez un iOpener. Posez celui-ci ensuite sur le bord inférieur de l'écran pendant environ 90 secondes afin de ramollir l'adhésif en dessous.

    If you don’t have that heating tool, a hair straightener n a T-shirt worked just fine for me

    www.tertlegerl - Réponse

    A hair dryer works well too. 2mins is all you need

    Mr Tegs - Réponse

  24. Avec un médiator, séparez délicatement l'adhésif fixant la nappe du capteur home/Touch ID à l'arrière de l'écran. Avec un médiator, séparez délicatement l'adhésif fixant la nappe du capteur home/Touch ID à l'arrière de l'écran. Avec un médiator, séparez délicatement l'adhésif fixant la nappe du capteur home/Touch ID à l'arrière de l'écran.
    • Avec un médiator, séparez délicatement l'adhésif fixant la nappe du capteur home/Touch ID à l'arrière de l'écran.

    It cannot be stressed enough that this is the one part of this repair that you can’t screw up. Anything else you’ll deal with during this repair can be easily replaced (The screen, and the sensor/microphone/camera assembly). Tearing this cable means an expensive trip to the apple store. or a very unhappy customer if you’re doing this for someone. Heat is your friend. I don’t even use a spudger or a guitar pick for this one, I use a new playing card to pull this up. Even with the card, you have to be careful. The edge of the playing card can nick the cable if you’re not careful to get it under the ribbon cable. If the adhesive isn’t soft enough for the card to get it up, apply more heat. Again, you can’t screw this step up. It’s all or nothing.

    Spartan99 - Réponse

    Thanks for the tip! worked great!

    Isaac Ham -

    Well, no visible damage but the home button won’t work. I contacted a local Apple Authorized Service Center to check options. Since I had personally replaced the screen assembly, they wouldn’t even look at it per Apple policy. They said they would jeopardize their Apple Authorization if they even looked at it. Seems like more of the “Right to Repair” problem to me. Frustrated, but at least I have the accesibility home button working.

    bandman - Réponse

    Make sure the home button screws aren’t overtightened; that often causes issues. If there’s any damage to the button cable, a repair shop with a skilled microsolderer can patch a new cable on and restore functionality. iPhone 7 home button not working after screen replacement? Worst case scenario, you can also buy a screen repair from Apple, and they’ll include a new home button. I am not a lawyer, but the response you’re describing from the AASP sounds way out of bounds. Good luck!

    Jeff Suovanen -

    Just keep in mind that this is a very delicate step that requires a lot of patience. the part is attached to the body of the phone so firmly and there is no gap to put the opening pick under. So the way I did it was applying a good amount of heat onto the part and not from behind. I did it constantly for 5 minutes, a few minutes at a time, then I pulled the connected up slightly (a little too much pressure on the pull and you will break the wire). Pull it constantly and If the heat has been enough to melt the adhesive, it should come off easily and slowly.

    ashkan eslami fard - Réponse

    Hi, a little thing to help : i heatened up and then insert a cutter blade to start. Work better

    Crasset Renaud - Réponse

    Okay the home button is connected, as touch id works, but I can’t get any motion out of it. I backed off the screws, but that didn’t help. What else can I try?

    kathwick2 - Réponse

    The home button on an iPhone 7 Plus doesn’t move at all. Anything you feel during normal operation is a small vibration from the Taptic Engine that tricks your brain into thinking the button is moving.

    markpetereit -

    Salve, vorrei un vostro aiuto, ho un problema con il tasto home (il tasto è originale preso dal vecchio display rotto) una volta sostituito il Touch ID funziona perfettamente (l’iPhone si sblocca e legge l’impronta digitale) il tasto invece no (il click per intenderci) cosa può essere? Grazie!

    bernabbo - Réponse

    I had to use the iOpener tool twice before the adhesive was soft enough to remove the cable with the pick.

    sschaffer - Réponse

    How do I get the home button out? I got the ribbon up.. just not sure how the button comes out

    Ash - Réponse

    Hi, i replaced the screen and home button, the home button was a bit difficult. When i turn on the Phone, touch id works fine but not home button function. Any idea ?

    Jim - Réponse

    More precisely, i was wondering if the home button could not work while touch idea does…

    Jim -

  25. Retirez l'ensemble capteur home/Touch ID en le faisant passer du côté avant de l'écran.
    • Retirez l'ensemble capteur home/Touch ID en le faisant passer du côté avant de l'écran.

    • Au moment de le remonter, commencez par insérer la nappe dans le trou de l'écran.

    • Il se peut que votre pièce de remplacement inclue une vis Y000 préinstallée à côté du bouton home. Ôtez la vis dont vous n'avez pas besoin, de façon à réinstaller le cache du bouton home.

    • Consultez ce tutoriel pour poser du nouvel adhésif sur votre écran.

    True to this picture, the home button can only be removed (and put back in place) through the front of the LCD assembly.

    Talon - Réponse

    Very good comment Talon. That was the first thing I was looking for here. There should be a bullet point in step 24 - Carefully remove home button from front of display being careful not to damage cable.

    Tracey - Réponse

    Had an issue when putting the screen back on, the side where the cables attach would not sit flush. At first I thought the cables were pushing the screen up. Turned out to be the battery cable shield was just a fraction too far down toward home button. After loosening screws, nudging it up slightly and screwing back in, the screen sat flush as it should. In case anyone else has same issue.

    jbarry - Réponse

    Is there anything special about reassembling the "home" button ?

    I tried several times with several buttons but none works.

    Lambiel - Réponse

    must use original button

    Christa -

    My phone is no more turning on after I replace the screen, no reaction if I press home button or power button

    cheryl.iseli - Réponse

    Why doesn’t this tutorial also cover the earpiece assembly?

    James - Réponse

    This guide is missing the camera transfer and the stupid little black sticker on the earpiece assembly that causes the earpiece not to work if that sticker is not transferred. This guide is wholly incomplete

    Mason Schild - Réponse

    This guide is meant for the ifixit parts, not other third-party screens.

    Ben Carter -

    James and @computermason—You’ll want to look up the correct guide for your repair, especially if you’re not using one of the kits for which this guide is designed. The guide for transferring all the smaller components is here.

    Jeff Suovanen - Réponse

    No home button functionality? I just watched a video on YouTube from two years ago saying that the iPhone 7 and 7+ have to be taken to an Apple repair center for the home button to work. Is this still the case? If so why didn’t you tell me this before I ordered this! Please confirm before I start warning everyone not to purchase from you!

    Gregory Haycock - Réponse

    @ghaycock If you’re replacing a screen, the home button will work fine as long as you carefully remove it from the old screen and transfer it to the new one, exactly as explained in the guide. The button itself can’t be replaced without help from Apple (which is why iFixit doesn’t sell home buttons for this model).

    Jeff Suovanen -

    One thing I don’t see mentioned is the replacement of the rubber gaskets that are on the pentalobe holes. The replacement screen did not come with these on it. I was able to remove them from the OEM screen, but there was no easy way to get them to adhere to the new screen. If they move just a little, you might not be able to properly thread the pentalobe screws. Worst case is that they fall into the body of the phone during this last step of re-assembly. At that point, you’ve already started to have the screen stuck to the adhesive, so you would need to redo the entire adhesive gasket.

    You can see the gaskets in this picture: https://d3nevzfk7ii3be.cloudfront.net/ig...

    Here they are near the new screen: https://drive.google.com/open?id=14FwpSB...

    Andre LeBlanc - Réponse

    Thank you! I was wondering what those things did, and even lost one but later was lucky enough to find it.

    Ben Carter -

    I saw one mention about those small gaskets in a guide and now I cannot find it. I was able to slip them off the old screen and onto the new one. I would think this is an important step to help seal those holes for the waterproofing. They should edit these screen replacement guides to include this step. Thanks for mentioning it in this guide.

    sschaffer -

    If your home button doesn’t work after transferring to the new screen you might have a faulty screen. I spent a lot of time chasing all the suggestions here, but eventually resolved the issue by installing a replacement screen.

    nigel - Réponse

    WARNING: When you reassemble the phone, the little screws… You have to be VERY careful to not put any pressure on them until they’re really well seated, otherwise you will flick the screws into another dimension… they’re so small they literally just vanish out of existence lol. I ended up losing two of the smallest screws, one per bracket, and everything seems fine so far.

    The glue/seal is also nearly impossible to get right. Just mash it down into the general area that it belongs if it gets stretched/twisted and can’t go in perfectly. Some glue is better than no glue, just assume that any repaired iPhone isn’t water resistant at all.

    Nicholas Tenney - Réponse

    The biggest issue I'm having now Is replacing the gasket that goes around the home button. The original one got stretched out and the new on is too thick to seat correctly into the hole without being exposed and potentially coming off of the home button after a while.

    Eric R Deshields - Réponse

    I ordered a replacement screen from ifixit, but contrary to the description it arrived without the ancillary parts attached. So I had to transfer the front camera & sensor assembly, and the lcd shield. In case anyone else needs to do this, be sure when transferring the lcd shield that the screen cable sits properly underneath it (ie as far up towards the top of the screen as possible) or else the rectangular block on the cable will foul the loudspeaker.

    If this happens, the bottom right corner of the screen will stand very slightly proud of the case, and you will end up with a pressure spot on the screen.

    See Pressure spot on iPhone after screen replacement..

    Neil Wilson - Réponse

  26. Retirez les trois vis cruciformes maintenant la fixation du haut-parleur interne au panneau avant :
    • Retirez les trois vis cruciformes maintenant la fixation du haut-parleur interne au panneau avant :

    • Deux vis de 2,6 mm

    • Une vis de 1,7 mm

    I am measuring the screws; my digital caliper measures both the top at 1.88mm not 2.6

    Marco Cueva - Réponse

    I just checked the screw measurements and they match what’s shown in the guide. Are you sure you’re looking at the right screws?Are you sure your caliper is accurate? Was your iPhone serviced in the past and reassembled incorrectly? Something isn’t right. The measurements here are the screw lengths, by the way—just in case you were measuring something else.

    Jeff Suovanen -

  27. Retirez la fixation du haut-parleur interne.
    • Retirez la fixation du haut-parleur interne.

  28. Soulevez la caméra frontale pour accéder au haut-parleur interne. Soulevez la caméra frontale pour accéder au haut-parleur interne.
    • Soulevez la caméra frontale pour accéder au haut-parleur interne.

  29. Retirez les deux vis cruciformes suivantes, fixant le haut-parleur interne au panneau frontal :
    • Retirez les deux vis cruciformes suivantes, fixant le haut-parleur interne au panneau frontal :

    • Une vis de 1,9 mm

    • Une vis de 2,5 mm

    Hi!What size is the third screw?

    Лёха Н - Réponse

  30. Retirez le haut-parleur interne.
    • Retirez le haut-parleur interne.

  31. Refaites chauffer votre iOpener et appliquez-le sur le bord supérieur de l'écran pour ramollir l'adhésif maintenant l'ensemble caméra frontale et capteur en place.
    • Refaites chauffer votre iOpener et appliquez-le sur le bord supérieur de l'écran pour ramollir l'adhésif maintenant l'ensemble caméra frontale et capteur en place.

    • Attendez environ deux minutes que l'adhésif soit bien ramolli avant de passer à l'étape suivante.

  32. Utilisez un spudger pour retirer délicatement le capteur de luminosité ambiante de son emplacement sur le panneau frontal. Essayez d'insérer entièrement votre outil sous le capteur pour l'éloigner de la pièce en plastique transparent juste en dessous. Si vous faites levier uniquement sur la nappe, le capteur risque de se détacher de la nappe et devra être remplacé. Si vous remplacez de toute façon l'ensemble capteur/nappe, cela n'a pas d'importance.
    • Utilisez un spudger pour retirer délicatement le capteur de luminosité ambiante de son emplacement sur le panneau frontal.

    • Essayez d'insérer entièrement votre outil sous le capteur pour l'éloigner de la pièce en plastique transparent juste en dessous. Si vous faites levier uniquement sur la nappe, le capteur risque de se détacher de la nappe et devra être remplacé. Si vous remplacez de toute façon l'ensemble capteur/nappe, cela n'a pas d'importance.

    I’m sorry to comment but this step is wrong. The proximity sensor is sticked to the display. I was following this instruction and the sensor was unvelded from the flex cable. Now it’s workless. It’s a fortune that the only problem with the iPhone is that while calling and holding the phone to the ear, the display doesn’t turn off.

    I recommend to gently pushing against the transparent plastic enclosure near the sensor and once it’s unsticked, keep pushing against the sensor’s body. In this way the sensor welding doesn’t bear/support any extra load on it.

    At least, my iPhone 7G had the sensor sticked to the display. Maybe some day I will replace it (around 20€ - 25€ on ebay)

    I won't claim to iFixit nor stop using this website. Whenever I higly recommend to iFixt technitians to revise such kind of “errors”. At least for expensive devices like Apple products.

    Miguel Cretu - Réponse

    I editted this guide and added these two comments. I already know about this “trick”. It’s your own decision to follow my suggestion or not.

    Miguel Cretu - Réponse

    I have fixed 2 screens now on iPhone 7. The 1st time I didn’t have this problem, 2nd time I did. I would agree with Miguel Cretu and save yourself the hassle and remove the sensor and it’s surround altogether.

    Wayne Lyell - Réponse

    In the second picture, there is the splugger that’s on it’s right is near a little window square, white inside. I’ve checked my replacement display and it don’t have inside in WHITE in this little window . Anyone know why have this color (it is not a sticker) and what is the reason? Thanks

    fakirox - Réponse

    I also had to pop out the clear plastic surround of the front camera to put into my new screen. It’s just glued in, so heat and pop it out with a spudger. Best to do this step last so you don’t accidentally tear any ribbons.

    Grant Barker - Réponse

  33. Faites glisser le médiator vers le boîtier de la caméra frontale, en décollant l'adhésif qui fixe la nappe au panneau frontal. Arrêtez juste avant les vis. Faites glisser le médiator vers le boîtier de la caméra frontale, en décollant l'adhésif qui fixe la nappe au panneau frontal. Arrêtez juste avant les vis. Faites glisser le médiator vers le boîtier de la caméra frontale, en décollant l'adhésif qui fixe la nappe au panneau frontal. Arrêtez juste avant les vis.
    • Faites glisser le médiator vers le boîtier de la caméra frontale, en décollant l'adhésif qui fixe la nappe au panneau frontal. Arrêtez juste avant les vis.

  34. Utilisez le médiator pour dégager la nappe de la caméra des deux dispositifs en plastique sur le panneau frontal et pour la décoller du dernier adhésif. Utilisez le médiator pour dégager la nappe de la caméra des deux dispositifs en plastique sur le panneau frontal et pour la décoller du dernier adhésif. Utilisez le médiator pour dégager la nappe de la caméra des deux dispositifs en plastique sur le panneau frontal et pour la décoller du dernier adhésif.
    • Utilisez le médiator pour dégager la nappe de la caméra des deux dispositifs en plastique sur le panneau frontal et pour la décoller du dernier adhésif.

    на рисунке №2 винт 3 отсутствует, на рисунке № 3 винт 3 присутствует. нет описание где он был вывинчен. последний винт с правой стороны, около камеры

    Vitaly Savin - Réponse

  35. Retirez la caméra frontale et la nappe de capteur.
    • Retirez la caméra frontale et la nappe de capteur.

    Look at the camera assembly closely. There are two cables soldered together. Do not separate the pieces by mistake . Get the pick all the way below both ,and they will come off together.

    turboduck2 - Réponse

    Good statement I made that mistake on my first iPhone 7 Plus !

    Jaye - Réponse

    Its not mentioned here but there is a small philips screw at the top left that you may have to transfer to your new lcd panel

    Steve - Réponse

    Hi Steve, what is the main work of this little strip with 2 small contact? Antenna? Shield?

    Thanks

    fakirox -

    I’ve separated the sensor and front facing camera, can I just press them back together or will I need a complete replacement

    Dominic Sore - Réponse

    About Steve comment, anyone know what is this small screw with two contact? It is an antenna ?? Shield??? Thanks

    fakirox - Réponse

    I’m also looking for info on the screw on the immediate left of the top left corner of the speaker. Did you find the info out?

    Cheers!

    Mike Grandbois - Réponse

  36. Retirer les trois vis tri-point Y000 de 1,2 mm de chacun des côtés de votre écran pour un total de six vis. Retirer les trois vis tri-point Y000 de 1,2 mm de chacun des côtés de votre écran pour un total de six vis.
    • Retirer les trois vis tri-point Y000 de 1,2 mm de chacun des côtés de votre écran pour un total de six vis.

    i miss the screw size here

    Beerbo - Réponse

    I think it's 1.2mm Y000

    STRAP -

    I d’ont think the screw size is correct, because i had to order a new heat shield plate, because my original broke during the replacement.

    Marco Burkhalter - Réponse

    I found if I held the flat end of a spudger behind the screw while I unscrewed, it worked well. Otherwise there was too much flex to get a good grip on the screw.

    Travis Hogg - Réponse

    good tip! Yes, there is indeed too much flex when removing the screws.

    amberron -

    My screws are too tight that I can't unscrew it. What should I do?

    Charles Bejarano - Réponse

    I have had this problem so far on all the red tri point screws. The first screw, the home button, and 4/6 of these. I have noticed little to no advice on each one or for stripped screws. I have been able to manage so far but not sure about this one.

    kimberly klassy -

    Here, I was able to use a soldering iron on the back side of the screw to get it quite hot to release the INSANE amount of loctite that was applied to my 7. Be patient and let the screw get hot. If you try to move the screw with the Y000 and it doesn’t move, WAIT. Don’t strip the screw or your driver.

    P Park - Réponse

    Good tip using the soldering iron. I’ve just ordered a quality Y driver as the cheap one that came with the screen can’t remove these screws. Why the the Loctite? Had to reassemble what I’ve pulled apart to await the new driver.

    Tony Binstead -

    I understand home button , but why do i need to replace the shield and camera/speaker?

    Ēriks Jaunzems - Réponse

  37. Faites chauffer un iOpener et posez-le sur le bord de la plaque le plus proche de votre bouton Home afin de faire ramollir la bande adhésive qui le maintient en place.
    • Faites chauffer un iOpener et posez-le sur le bord de la plaque le plus proche de votre bouton Home afin de faire ramollir la bande adhésive qui le maintient en place.

  38. Utilisez un médiator en plastique afin de décoller l’adhésif près du bouton Home entre l'écran LCD et sa plaque de protection. Utilisez un médiator en plastique afin de décoller l’adhésif près du bouton Home entre l'écran LCD et sa plaque de protection. Utilisez un médiator en plastique afin de décoller l’adhésif près du bouton Home entre l'écran LCD et sa plaque de protection.
    • Utilisez un médiator en plastique afin de décoller l’adhésif près du bouton Home entre l'écran LCD et sa plaque de protection.

    applying 1 minute of hair dryer heat in this step really helps the separation in this step

    amberron - Réponse

    definitely use heat and work slowly!

    Catharine - Réponse

  39. A présent, retirez la plaque de protection l'écran LCD. Faites attention à ne pas déchirer les nappes de l'écran LCD en retirant la plaque de protection.
    • A présent, retirez la plaque de protection l'écran LCD.

    • Faites attention à ne pas déchirer les nappes de l'écran LCD en retirant la plaque de protection.

Conclusion

Pour remonter votre appareil, suivez ces instructions en sens inverse.

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Evan Noronha

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Awesome Guide! Very easy to follow!!! Thanks!

apriltanner1975 - Réponse

Use a good tri-point screwdriver for this repair. Some of the screws are very tight!

Robin Vandenbroucke - Réponse

Absolutely true. The cheap Y000 driver that came with a repair kit was stripped to uselessness by the time I got to the shield screws.

Mike Sorice -

I am a better technician because ifixit repair guide have made it easier for me. Thank you

Agba - Réponse

I had a lot of trouble getting the home button cable connector back after replacing the screen and shield. I wound up disconnecting the shield to give the screen side of that connection a little more play and enable the connection to be made.

Incidentally, if you want to take off just the shield itself and not the outer cables, you can skip 19-35, except the outer orange screws in 19 and the outer orange screws in 26. It might make getting under the shield adhesive harder, but in the case I described above, it was quite useful!

Mike Sorice - Réponse

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