Introduction
Avec ce tutoriel, remplacez une vitre avant d'écran cassée. Il est nécessaire de retirer cette vitre pour accéder à l'écran LCD.
Ce dont vous avez besoin
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Retirez les 10 vis suivantes par lesquelles est fixé le boîtier inférieur du MacBook Pro 13" Unibody :
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Sept vis Phillips 3 mm.
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Trois vis Phillips 13,5 mm.
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Soulevez légèrement le boîtier inférieur et poussez-le vers l'arrière de l'ordinateur afin de désengager les pattes de fixation.
In the introduction you should link fixers to this excellent doc: https://www.ifixit.com/Misc/HD_Software_...
It is really critical, super easy, and free(!) to clone your existing drive onto the new one you will install. I ran into one error, but SuperDuper! support replied immediately on how to fix it...Thanks ifixit and SuperDuper! (I ponied up the $28 for the software anyway, I was so impressed!)
Long story short: I drank the AppleKoolAid back in 1984 and have always left the guts of my machines up to Apple - until recently when I needed to swap the SATAs from my original MacDaddy (2009 13" MBPro that I killed in 2018 - coffee + blackout = OOOOPS) into a pristine 2009 MBPro from a Goodwill in North Carolina through eBay. I need the files from iCal and MacMail that can't be opened in my newer machines.
Well . . . I ain't never done nuttin' like that, before!
Enter Luke Miani on YouTube. He raves about you guys! So, I watched everything I could, read your site, bought the right tools and at the ripe old age of 72, I sat down, this morning and did the work. Now my original MacDaddy lives in MacDaddy2.0.
Am I allowed to cry?
Seriously, I can't thank you enough for your bitchen site and killer tools. I wish I'd'a been turned on to this shizzle 30+ years ago.
IFIXIT - IDIGIT!
HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA.
That was a brilliant read.
Yes, I came across ifixit a few years ago. Totally helped me out on several occasions.
Glad your Mac repair journey worked out.
:)
Cary B -
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À l'aide de l'extrémité plate d'un spudger, faites levier sur le connecteur de la batterie pour le débrancher de la prise sur la carte mère.
How do you get that battery connector back on? Do you just press it in back in place after you're done?
yes. I usually plug it in before I screw it down so I can lift the battery a bit and have enough slack to be able to go straight down on the connector, otherwise it comes in on a bit of an angle, which can't be good (though not necessarily bad).
This step almost finished me, and I did extensive damage to the battery plug. Fortunately, I later replaced the battery, and the replacement came with a new plug! :) Newbies need to know - 1. The battery plug is like a thin lip on a thicker lip, so you need to pry BETWEEN 2 thin lips to get it off, else you are trying to yank out the socket. 2. Mine was initially VERY tight, and trying to get it out broke the plastic on all sides of plug, even though I was as careful as possible. Luckily, this didn't hurt functionality and I later replaced the battery. AFTER disconnecting once, it was never so tight again,
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Avec l'extrémité plate d'une spatule (spudger), soulevez le connecteur de la nappe du caisson de basse/du haut-parleur droit pour le débrancher de sa prise sur la carte mère.
Please Be Carefully With This Step, Because I Had To Resolder It Back To The Logic Board. But There Is A Black Foam Piece Over The Cable You Have To Pry Up, Lift The Foam Piece And Then Try To CAREFULLY Pry Cable Connector
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Déconnectez la nappe de la caméra en tirant l'extrémité mâle tout droit hors de la prise.
This step is unnecessarily tricky. I’ve tried to make it better by adding images highlighting the plastic stopper thingy and showing a clear arrow of the direction the cable should be pulled.
However, simply pulling the cable may not be enough to remove it. It sure wasn’t for me. I think there ought to be a close-up of the two little nubbins on the sides of the plug which one uses to wiggle it loose from the connector by gently prying with a tiny flathead screwdriver. I didn’t add that tip because (a) it would have made the instructions longer, (b) I didn’t think to take a photo of it, and (c) using a screwdriver carelessly next to the logic board could scratch or break components on the motherboard. A guitar pick or very small spudger might work.
@hackerb9 Thanks for your edits and comments! I took some additional shots and tried to clean this up a little for everyone. There should be a lot less confusion now. Interestingly, neither of the two MacBook Pros used for these guides had the plastic retainer piece you folks mentioned, but I left that image in a link so everyone can still see what it looks like if needed.
Thanks for incorporating some of my edits and for taking new photos.
Are you the one who took the original photographs? If so, you did originally have the hard plastic retainer as it was in those photos, just obscured by your thumbnail. The glue on the retainer allows it to shift a bit, so it's possible you took out the cable and knocked off the retainer without noticing it.
Your two frame animation of pulling out the plug is helpful to show the proper direction. Given the number of people who have destroyed their MacBooks from this procedure, I think we should do even better. The instruction would be clearer if it said, “Disconnect the camera cable by sliding it horizontally out of its socket.”
Also, if you can post a link to a picture without fingers in the shot, I will add an arrow showing the proper direction. (I would have added it to the original, but visually it would have gone through your fingers.)
P.s. this isn't as important, but where did you hear the tip about the hairdryer? I'd leave that out as firmly peeling it up works fine.
hackerb9 -
Negative, I’m not the original photographer. You’re right, I do see the retainer in some of the previous photos, although it wasn’t in any of the images for this particular step. May have been an oversight on the part of the original author! So I’m glad you caught it. I updated the verbiage as you requested. Don’t worry about adding arrows—at this point, if someone ignores both the images and the multiple warnings in the text, that’s no longer a fault with the guide. The heat/hairdryer tip is standard practice for anything that’s secured with adhesive—I hardly ever work on a MacBook of any vintage without using a heat gun at least a couple times. It may not be strictly necessary, but the result is much cleaner and it reduces the risk of accident.
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Dévissez les vis suivantes, fixant le câble de données de la caméra et le haut-parleur droit au boîtier supérieur :
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Deux vis cruciformes de 8 mm.
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Une vis cruciforme de 4 mm.
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Faites glisser la fixation du câble de la caméra hors de son emplacement sous le caisson de basse et ôtez-la de l'ordinateur.
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Saisissez la languette en plastique fixée au dispositif de verrouillage du câble de données de l'écran et pivotez-la vers le côté DC-In (prise d'alimentation) de l'ordinateur.
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Tirez le connecteur du câble de données de l'écran tout droit hors de sa prise.
Well, my display ended up looking like this after the repair:
http://i1106.photobucket.com/albums/h366...
As you can see, there was a light/dark banded pattern along the bottom of the screen, corresponding to the LCD's backlight. In my case it was also accompanied by a constant high pitched whistling noise. I swear to anything that's holy, it was not coming from the fan or the speaker, but rather the motherboard itself.
Anyway, both these problems went away when I disconnected and reconnected the connector at this stage. I'm saying this on the off chance it helps someone else.
It's not to clear but there is a piece of spring steel that rotates away from the main (circuit board side) of the connector....this piece sort of hugs the parameter of the screen cable locking it to the circuit board...both arms wrapped around your brother....looking closely (10x magnifier) at this cable one of the gold connections is slightly oxidized---my display arbitrarily flickers and this symptom is lessened as the temperature increases...I suspect this is the cuase of the screen flashing on/off
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Dévissez les deux vis extérieures Torx de 6,5 mm fixant les deux supports de l'écran au boîtier supérieur (4 vis au total).
Hey folks, regarding the screw/driver sizes: there are separate guides for the Mid 2010 model with the T8 screws. Always use the correct guide for your model to avoid confusion, stripped screws, etc. Hope this helps!
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Ouvrez votre MacBook de sorte que l'écran est perpendiculaire au boîtier supérieur.
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Posez votre MacBook ouvert sur une table comme sur la photo.
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Pendant que vous maintenez l'écran et le boîtier supérieur d'une main, dévissez la vis Torx de 6,5 mm restante du support inférieur de l'écran.
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Dévissez la dernière vis Torx T6 de 6 mm fixant l'écran au boîtier supérieur.
Removing the screen assembly this way, with the computer standing on edge, is needlessly risky and difficult. By the 5th or 6th time I did this procedure (of perhaps a hundred), it dawned on me that there’s a way, way easier method for the whole lid removal job: 1. After removing the bottom cover and disconnecting power, hang the open laptop, keyboard down, facing away, over the edge of your work table with the lid assembly hanging down, monitor facing toward the table and pushed against the table edge. (If you’re klutzy, tape the main body to the table so it can’t slide around.) 2. With the unit positioned this way, you can easily disconnect the various cables & remove the 6 hinge screws. Now the lid assembly will just be hanging, easy to lift away from the main body without difficulty or danger. 3. Reverse this to put it back together.
Nice tip, Clinton! I’ll have to try that next time. Do you have photos of how it is done so this guide can be updated?
hackerb9 -
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Soulevez et éloignez l'écran du boîtier supérieur en veillant à ce qu'aucun support ni aucune nappe ne reste accroché.
May be in the wrong place but then please direct me. At this step, can I just take off the upper half (meaning the screen, LCD, and top housing shell in one) and simply replace it with another upper half of the same edition???
Yes, you can. Thanks what I'm doing now. :)
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Réglez le pistolet à air chaud à température basse et commencez à chauffer la bordure extérieure noire, du côté du coin supérieur droit de l'écran.
With a lot of heating, for me, it was very hard to get the glass to separate from the case. I had better luck starting from the bottom right as I could grip better onto the case. Three mistakes I made:
1. Once I got the glass separated, I probably didn't heat sufficiently as I was going around and the glass broke. That made the rest of the procedure miserable. Lesson: pull very gently.
2. I must have touched one of the tiny bits of glass that fell on the LCD and it scratched the actual screen. :-(. Lesson: vacuum the pieces as you go and be very careful when touching the LCD.
3. I somehow overheated the LCD screen at the top left and right corners and now the display is all wonky and faded at the corners. Not sure what the lesson is here.
First, if using a hair dryer, what setting should that be operated at? It would be much cooler than the heat gun, right?
Second, the iFixit basic set comes with a small, clear suction cup. Would that be sufficient for this project, or does it require the stronger pull of the other cups?
Finally, must I reapply adhesive to the case when replacing the glass? Does the original remain tacky and re-bond on assembly?
It's been a while since you asked, but since no one answered and someone else may have the same questions:
Hair dryers vary a lot, depending on wattage. I would start on low or med, and work my way up to high if necessary. I'd keep the fan on the lowest setting.
The little suction cup is for removing screens like the iMac, which just uses magnets, and possibly an iPad or iPhone. I would not want to use that for this project, get something about 2" wide with a decent handle.
The screen should have the double sided glue tape already applied, just remove the backing. I wouldn't get glass that doesn't have the tape on it, big waste of time with little savings in cost.
Jeff Kamis
All I can say for this is don't be tempted to hold the heat gun too close. I ended up burning my LCD the first time I did it and having to replace that when all I was looking to do was replace the cable. I got the glass off holding it about 4/5 inches from the screen and being patient (it took about 5/10 minutes in the end).
The tape is very sticky and the glass is very fragile but at the same time fairly flexible.....I ended up breaking the glass ans it turned out to be a mess picking up the shards....but in the end a new glass is not too costly. the implication is that heating melts the glue but it is really just double stick tape.....there are some "youtube" videos that are worth a look but I would suggest using guitar picks and not a putty knife which creates a point load that breaks the glass....wear safety glasses!!
Be ready to replace the glass (good thing mine was already broken, I ordered one). Wear surgery gloves and protective glasses. Trust your nose, if it smell melted plastic, it’s a good clue to stop the heat.
If you have a glass cover that is severely cracked then the heating gun and suction cup procedure really doesn’t work. Suction cups won’t hold and the already broken glass doesn’t lift. Here’s what I did that made the job easier. Using 2 inch wide transparent packing tape I laid it along the perimeter of the display but not covering the rubber edge. Then I used a 1/4 inch wood carving tool and very carefully removed the glass and 2 sided tape around the metal border. Use as your guide picture 2 in this step that shows where the camera and cable is located. Where the camera is located in the top center the 2 sided tape isn’t located so you can easily lift the glass. The camera cable runs up the right side in a trough in the metal border so when lifting the tape and glass in this area just keep the sharp end flat and it is wide enough it won’t dip into the trough and damage the cable. The tape was very helpful because it kept the glass from splintering and going everywhere.
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Une fois que la vitre a été suffisamment chauffée, fixez une ventouse à levier à côté du coin supérieur droit de la vitre.
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Soulevez et éloignez doucement et délicatement le coin de la vitre de l'ensemble écran.
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Soulevez précautionneusement le coin de la vitre suffisamment pour pouvoir insérer une spatule (spudger) entre elle et l'ensemble écran.
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Avec l'extrémité plate de la spatule, décollez soigneusement la bande adhésive fixant la vitre à l'écran.
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Soulevez la vitre de quelques centimètres au-dessus du coin supérieur droit, tout au long du bord supérieur et du bord droit de l'écran.
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Avec un pistolet à air chaud, faites ramollir la colle sous la bordure noire le long du côté droit de la vitre avant.
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Fixez une ventouse à levier du côté droit de la vitre avant.
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Soulevez la vitre pendant que vous la séparez du reste de l'ensemble écran avec l'extrémité plate d'une spatule.
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Progressez le long du bord droit de la vitre avant jusqu'à ce qu'elle soit séparée de l'écran.
I ended up breaking my glass panel due to using the spudger. I think if you use something more like a small putty knife you will do better. The spudger puts a lot of pressure in a small spot while the putty knife would put a little pressure over a larger area. Also, if you do break the glass, be sure to get ALL of the broken bits off before putting the new one on. Also, watch out for those broken bits as they tend to penetrate skin quite easily, and stay there for days!
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Avec votre pistolet à air chaud, ramollissez la colle sous la bordure noire le long du bord supérieur de la vitre.
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Fixez une ventouse à levier sur le bord supérieur de la vitre avant et tirez-la pour séparer la vitre de l'écran.
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Progressez le long du bord supérieur de la vitre, en enlevant précautionneusement la colle avec l'extrémité plate d'une spatule si nécessaire.
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Avec le pistolet à air chaud, ramollissez la colle sous la bordure noire du côté du coin supérieur gauche de la vitre.
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Fixez une ventouse à levier dans le coin supérieur gauche de la vitre avant.
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Tirez sur la ventouse pendant que vous séparez précautionneusement la vitre de l'ensemble écran avec l'extrémité plate d'une spatule.
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Avec un pistolet à air chaud ou un sèche-cheveux, faites ramollir la colle sous la bordure noire le long du bord gauche de la vitre avant.
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Fixez une ventouse à levier du côté gauche de la vitre avant.
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Soulevez la vitre pendant que vous la séparez du reste de l'ensemble écran avec l'extrémité plate d'une spatule.
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Progressez le long du bord gauche de la vitre avant jusqu'à ce qu'il soit séparé de l'écran.
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Pour reconnecter la nappe de la caméra, enlevez d'abord le morceau de mousse autocollante sur la prise ZIF de la nappe avec la pointe d'une spatule.
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Toujours avec la pointe de la spatule, ouvrez le clapet de retenue ZIF de la prise de la nappe de la caméra.
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Insérez la nappe de la caméra dans sa prise sur la carte caméra et refermez le clapet de retenue ZIF avec la pointe de la spatule pour maintenir la nappe en place.
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Pour remonter votre ordinateur, suivez les instructions dans l'ordre inverse.
Pour remonter votre ordinateur, suivez les instructions dans l'ordre inverse.
Annulation : je n'ai pas terminé ce tutoriel.
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Un commentaire
This guide needs to be replicated / linked on to all the other A1286 13-inch Unibody models as it was done with the 2010 model. The screens are the same for each year of the A1286 generation from 2009, 2010, early 2011, late 2011, and 2012.
Ideally, it could be really helpful if the staff team can improve the article; improve on the steps outlined; using the feedback received in the comments - e,g, safer ways to handle broken glass, use of solvents like alcohol or acetone to dissolve / neutralise the adhesive seal, and ways to preserve the rubber lining, the LCD panel itself, and the additional circuitry & cabling underneath.
Compare the short screws carefully before reinstalling them. The shouldered screws go in the holes on the front edge.
David Kilbridge - Réponse
Before I started removing any screws I took a piece of paper and drew the bottom of the laptop and put a piece of double-sided tape in the spot where each screw goes. That way when I took out the screws, I could put them on the tape so I knew exactly which screw went in which spot. I did the same thing for dismantling the inside on another sheet of paper, then a third sheet for the screen after getting the front glass off.
mastover - Réponse
I use a similar technique: I print out the iFixit manual for the job, and Scotch-tape down the screws/brackets/cables I remove at each step next to the component descriptions. That way, when I'm reassembling, the bits are taped right next to the photo of where they came from.
adlerpe -
That's exactly what I do for all my repairs! It's the best way to keep track of all of the parts ' original location and to make sure that you don't miss any parts during reassembly.
joyitsjennie -
Great idea and one I use often
Thomas Overstreet -
Excellent idea! Thanks for sharing it here.
Laura Sharkey -
I used a 00 that fit but the screws were very tight so I used a tiny paintbrush with some wd40 on it and put it around the edges of the screws. Worked like a charm
valentinedhdh - Réponse
I use a magnetic mat and place the screws in order on that :)
Cary B - Réponse