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Introduction

Les haut-parleurs gauche et droite sont couplés dans les MacBook Pro avec écran Retina. Par conséquent, ils devraient être remplacés ensemble. Utilisez ce tutoriel pour mener à bien le remplacement.

  1. Dévissez les vis Pentalobe P5 suivantes fixant le boîtier inférieur au MacBook Pro :
    • Dévissez les vis Pentalobe P5 suivantes fixant le boîtier inférieur au MacBook Pro :

    • Huit vis de 3,0 mm

    • Deux vis de 2,3 mm

    To remove the back panel there are two different pentalobe screws 2.3mm and 3mm however on the tools list there is only one screwdriver. Will I be able to remove both screws with the same screwdriver?

    lantzero - Réponse

    In my case it worked. Don't know if it was a 2,3 or 3 mm screwdriver

    Christian Mohr -

    The 2.0 and 2.3 mm measurements are screw lengths, the screw heads are the same sized P5 pentalobe heads. We include the screw lengths so you don't put the wrong screws in the wrong places and end up with screw heads poking out of your device. Hope that clears up some confusion =)

    Sam Goldheart -

    Yes the same screwdriver will remove both screws, the difference in screws I believe is the length and width but the head is the same.

    Mike -

    will this unit work with the Mid 2012 Macbook Pro Retina's as well?

    drscottgreenwell - Réponse

    Same question...anyone know? Damaged my 2012 board and if possible would like to upgrade to this unit

    cloughenough -

    This works for rMBP 2012 late

    iyeori -

    Woohoo, much easier than I thought... Just got confused with the bottom case screw driver but after figure out it was P5 then everything went smooth.... One thing I wanted to upgrade was the wifi to ac and got one on ebay!

    didierma - Réponse

    If you have 54 Bit Driver kit, please use Star 5 driver to remove screw for rMBP 2012 Late

    iyeori - Réponse

    Where can I find the driver for the MacBook Pro Retina Display 15'4 i7 on your website iFixit please.

    Epifanio - Réponse

    It took about 40 minutes due to an extreme measure of caution but I did it! The only real difficulty was reattaching the screen to the base (yes you have to pry the hinges open) and re-connecting the camera wires. After a few tries the camera wires finally came together. I'm hating Apple for all it's frailty and magical screws but I love ifixit!

    floyd - Réponse

    Simple guide, but it solved my problem. Was wondering why the top two screws weren't going all the way down. Hadn't realized they were 0.7mm shorter.

    Emilio Mejia - Réponse

    I have BootCamp running Win7 on my MBPwRetina15" 2013'Late. I run Visual Studio to build and run my Company's Application which is very CPU & NVidia (specific) intensive. So much so that during a build & run of app I was averaging about 85~95+Celcius!!! And every so often would reach 100Celcius!!! I could not take it anymore so I decided to delve into and re-apply Thermal Paste on the CPU/GPU. I ended up going with CooLaboratory Liquid Pro instead of the traditonal AS5. The original Thermal Paste was pure garbage,,, part of the CPU seemed like it was missing TP. I was scared to do this but it turned out easier than I had imagined. I am currently building the same application and can already observe that the temps average about 75~85 and once in a while will reach 90Celcius. So I am seeing about a 10~15 degree drop in Temps and that makes me very happy!

    Alvaro Suarez - Réponse

    Nice to hear that, i was looking for that kind of information. I have a MBPwRetina 15 Mid 2012 and looking to obtain the best performance!

    Jose David Valle -

    Woa! Thanks dude! And you follow some guides here for the thermal paste? My mac 15’’ early 2013 heats up a lot but I’m a bit worried about touching anything

    Bert0ld0 -

    Good to list the bit needed to open the case: P6

    brian2burnett - Réponse

    Much easier than expected. Sounds like several people had trouble with the backlight. It is possible that they damaged something by not first making sure to power down the computer completely with the “Shut Down” command. This should be step 1 before removing the back cover screws. Also as noted all the back cover screws are Apple Pentelope #5 bit, but 2 of the screws are shorter than the others. This bit is is hard to find in most stores. Buy it on line along with the Tork #5 and #8. 11/21/2017

    Walt Goede - Réponse

    Replaced my Magsafe 2 yesterday and it works perfectly on my MBP 15” ea13. However, when I plugged in the charger I heard the startup sound twice and then I got to the login page where I realized the keyboard didn’t respond.

    So I thought I should restart the computer so I clicked ”shut down”. But the keyboard is dead. I can’t start it. I haven’t tried to use a USB-keyboard yet..

    Any ideas what may have caused this to happen and what component ”handles” the keyboard? Thanks

    /JD

    Jakob Dahlin - Réponse

    Not sure if this has been listed.

    PRO TIPS from a non-pro:

    1 - Keep screws separated and labeled by step # and size.

    2 - Be very careful to get screws in properly threaded, its VERY easy to strip the ccrew holes and screws. Especially the case. Not that it happened to me…

    3 - It was impossible for me to get all the adhesive off the case from under battery, it left a lot on w/o issue (yet).

    4 - Make sure you have Aluminium Foil before starting!

    5 - Upgrade the SSD or HDD while your in there!

    erin - Réponse

    Do we remove the logic board purely to get the speaker enclosures out and away from the acetone? Or does it physically block getting the batteries out? Ie. if I wanted to risk the damage to the speakers, could I jump straight to step 34?

    Obviously I don’t want to melt the speakers, but I’m kinda weighing that risk against losing a screw or breaking a connector…

    Michael Ferenduros - Réponse

    So I did take the risk and swapped out the battery without doing the logic-board + speaker removal.

    Before applying the acetone I put tape on the exposed sides of the speaker-enclosures as best I could - I wrapped the tape, sticky side out, around a card, slid it into the gap, and pressed it onto the speakers. And when applying the acetone, I squirted it as gently as possible onto the side of the battery and let it run down the side, which seemed to help avoid getting too much on the speakers.

    The speaker’s plastic turned white in the spots where the acetone touched it, but it looked like surface damage only. Otherwise it was a nice and smooth procedure.

    Your milage may vary, obviously.

    Michael Ferenduros -

    I changed the battery pack as well without removing the logic board etc. It helped, that the batteries already were swollen, thus access to the glue stripes was easier. It works, if you give a little tension, pulling a pack upwards, and then work with a small blade or knife, and cut the glue stripes. It may take a while, but much less time than dismantling the whole macbook. If you don’t hurry, and don’t apply too much force, you will not damage anything. Beside the 10 cover screws you only have to loose 2 screws for the battery connector. After removing the old pack I used Methanol to remove the glue. I prefer this solvent to Acetone, because it’s less or not harmful to plastic (however, no warranty, just my personal experience). I was able to finish the work in 40 minutes, although it was the first time I opened my Macbook. Well, I am an engineer, that helps, but with dismantling all boards it definitely would have taken double the time. And more risks to break a plug or make a mistake while reassembling.

    Heinrich Jung -

    Success. I needed to replace the right speaker. I thought I was ready at step 22 (you are able to replace the left speaker at this point… but but the right) To replace the right I continued thru step 29 but didn’t completely remove the motherboard. I just lifted it enough to remove and replace the right speaker cable.

    Read all of the comments and solved many problems. Thanks to I-fixit, Walter Galen and all who posted comments.

    Will Brecht - 03/02/2019

    Will Brecht - Réponse

    1/2

    If you're taking the shortcut (nylon, wire…and no adhesive for battery removal (you'll def need to remove the adhesive once the battery pack is removed) things to note:

    1 The adhesive may still be pretty strong. Mine was and I broke several wires trying to do the cheese cutter move down the back of the middle two batteries

    2 if you're cheese cutting through the adhesive, when you get to the base, don't go too far. I did and severed the battery cell connector… disconcerting puff of smoke.

    Ruairi Kennedy - Réponse

    2/2

    3 the you tube video dude was lucky not to have his two Central batteries adhered . Mine were stuck fast.

    4 don't forget about the two small T 5 screws to the left and right of the battery head board, just below the main battery connector.

    5 the Track Pad sits behind the two central batteries. The batteries are adhered to a flat plate that protects the Track Pad which is pretty resilient. You can do the cheese wire trick without cutting through anything you shouldn't. However be careful if you're using a spudger or other tool between the two centre batteries at the top of the T. This is where the Track Pad connector (its very flat and exposed) to the motherboard.

    6 seems obvious when it's written , but you will need the adhesive remover if you are interested in removing the adhesive. It's a work out.

    Ruairi Kennedy - Réponse

    I just completed this successfully. The guide was great, and I recommend reading each of the steps’ comments, too. It is possible to cut out a majority of the steps outlined here if you’d rather not dismantle most of your laptop. As I’m a novice and this was the first difficult fix I’d ever tried, the idea of taking so many things apart — including removing the logic board — was a little scary. Everyone calculates risk and reward differently, but for me, the risk of removing the logic board for the reward of being able to remove the battery packs with adhesive remover was too great, so I opted to only do steps 1–4, 42–53 and removed the battery with one of the cards from iFixit’s kit. If you go this route, expect it to be a little frustrating & slow going — it took me around 20–30 minutes of slowly chipping away at the adhesive with only the card. There are other techniques out there (wire, fishing line, etc.) and I’d advise looking into them. Keep track of screws: tape, draw out diagrams, label them, etc.

    Jake Thornberry - Réponse

    Hi. I got your beautiful guide and I got a toolkit, unfortunately not the ifix it and everything is ready to start the operation. But the P5 seems to be too big for the screws of my late 2013 a1398. Are there more than one types/ sizes of P5?

    Chrysovalantis Lamprianidis - Réponse

  2. En commençant par le bord le plus proche de la charnière, ôtez le boîtier inférieur du MacBook Pro.
    • En commençant par le bord le plus proche de la charnière, ôtez le boîtier inférieur du MacBook Pro.

    • Mettez le boitier inférieur de côté.

    Does anyone noticed that the bottom cover and the bottom case is actually linked with the black plastic near the battery?! After the first time you open the cover, it will be impossible to put it back to the original place. Does the critical?! Thanks a lot for informing

    jamiegan835 - Réponse

    I was able to simply push and click those clips back into place before I did the screwing.

    Tim Peat -

    I truly believe this is placebo and the 10*C difference is because in the process the dust was removed from the fan/heat sink rather then the thermal "magic" paste.

    This is a "PC" habit.

    On the other hand, all the cases and protections out there have a bad effect on cooling (not sleeves or pouches) because the whole aluminum body helps dissipate heat.

    I've never had any problems with any mac regarding heat (they do get hot, but it is OK).

    Whenever you feel heat from electronic device means the heat radiates away from it.. which means the cooling is doing a good job :).

    crus - Réponse

    Hey,

    Writing about dust and dirt, do you know any cleaning products for the interior of the mac. i mean how do you clean your laptop, pc, etc..

    Regards

    Jose David Valle -

    This is untrue. Over time thermal paste will dry up and crack and not provide good coverage between the device and the cooler. The paste massively improves the thermal transfer between the chip and the heatsink. If you do not believe in the magic paste then you should wipe it all off and apply just a little bit or none at all and then compare temperatures. You will see the paste is responsible for a big reduction in temperature.

    Andrew Fox -

    I was able to remove all screws but lower case is not comming off easly. Is it glued to somthing?

    Thanks for help.

    c4rlosv8 - Réponse

    There are two clips in the centre which simply unclip with a little force.

    Tim Peat -

    If you are following this how-to because liquid/coffee splashed in through the back vents, WAIT UNTIL THE END to clean any liquid spills on the bottom panel. Use them as your map for cleaning and QA guide for checking until you are finished with your cleanup of logic board and other items.

    auntialias - Réponse

  3. Tirez vers l'arrière l'autocollant d'avertissement qui recouvre le connecteur de batterie.
    • Tirez vers l'arrière l'autocollant d'avertissement qui recouvre le connecteur de batterie.

    For rMBP 2012 Late, you don't need to remove this sticker.

    iyeori - Réponse

    Have laptop charging issues after this. When fully charged and i plug in magsafe it starts with green, then turns red and stays red (like if it was charging). Status bar says NOT charging. If i use battery a little bit (down to 69%) magsafe does the same (green then stay red). Status bar says battery 69% NOT charging. and it seems to be true. Any suggestions?

    g000phy - Réponse

    Double check the connection from the battery to the logic board and the logic board socket itself... Might have damaged by disconnect/reconnect.

    max damage -

    Why is this step necessary?

    67b5ebab - Réponse

    67b5ebab Good question !

    Why is this necessary ?

    bigb19791979 - Réponse

    This step is necessary to prevent any discharging, arcing, friction/static charges from damaging any of the extremely delicate and intricate parts of this (or most any) electrical system. In practice, you should even be wearing an anti-static band or be working on an anti-static bench even with the battery disconnected so your body doesn't create any unintentional charges.

    One of the first things you should learn in electronics repair and and electrical in general is to cut the power source whenever possible before performing any work. Some systems have schedulers/triggers set that will wake the system up (even when closed) to perform updates and other maintenance tasks as to not eat up CPU and RAM during 'peak hours'. The last thing you need is to have your $2,000 laptop turn on while pulling an SSD (which, correct me if wrong, isn't a plug-and-play based device) which could do some serious corruption and/or damage; when all you had to do was peel a sticker and plug.

    Hope that helps!!

    ~the more you know~

    Colin Devenney - Réponse

    I did not peel back the sticker. It is probably there to help unplug the battery. You can apply a gentle constant pull while you use spudger to lift the battery connector out of the socket as per the next step. It made this very easy.

    Achilles - Réponse

    There is another connector here on mine, just to the left and up above the text on the battery sticker. It is an empty ZIPF socket on all these photos.

    Richard C - Réponse

  4. Avec l'extrémité plate d'une spatule (spudger), soulevez délicatement le connecteur de batterie vers le haut hors de sa prise sur la carte mère. Repliez les câbles de la batterie vers l'arrière et de côté afin que le connecteur de batterie ne touche pas accidentellement la carte mère.
    • Avec l'extrémité plate d'une spatule (spudger), soulevez délicatement le connecteur de batterie vers le haut hors de sa prise sur la carte mère.

    • Repliez les câbles de la batterie vers l'arrière et de côté afin que le connecteur de batterie ne touche pas accidentellement la carte mère.

    I ordered the whole kit, but seeing how much tedious effort it was to take out so many parts so they wouldn't be damaged by the solvent, I skipped from here to step 34 and only used the supplied cards (credit-card sized) with patience and persistence to free the battery sections from the backing. Success! Then I used a q-tip to apply the solvent to remove the remnants of the adhesive from the aluminum case. My battery was very swollen, so it was like removing little pillows. I think the swelling may have helped to give me additional access with the cards to free it. Success! My MBP is back up and running, and now the trackpad clicks again and it sits flat on a table!

    Joel Replogle - Réponse

    So no need basically to unscrew all the mac

    Bert0ld0 -

    Joel - the purpose of all of the trouble in removing the logic board is to make sure that you don’t damage anything when you start pull out the battery. After this step - it’s true, you have about 12 connectors and dozens of screws to unplug, but I didn’t have any major problems.

    REASSEMBLY - I had to use alot of force to get the official IFIXIT battery connect to push into place to actually connect. I was worried that one of the wires would stress and break. It worked, but it was not super easy this part.

    Jer - Réponse

    I also skipped down to step 50. I stuck a piece of 1/2 inch weather stripping across the middle of the top cover of the laptop to maintain a pitch on the unit so the adhesive remover stayed away from the other components. I applied the remover and used a piece of string to cut through the adhesive strips. I owed the plastic tool from the kit to position the string behind the top of each cell and cut through one ata a time. The battery came out in about 15 minutes. The directions were very informative and useful but I thought the risks associated with dismantling the laptop and reassembling it again were greater. I could not have done it without the details presented. Thank you.

    Thomas Horan - Réponse

    Having broken a connector on a logic board in the past, I worried about all the steps. But I understand the disaster that can occur if cleaning fluid contacts the logic board. Weighing costs and benefits, I also did not remove the logic board. I loosened up the speakers (since only two screws could be removed) to give me space to slide the cards under the battery cells. Using the two cards, sometimes sliding one over the other, I was able to remove the battery in 15- 20 minutes. Removing the remaining adhesive was VERY tedious. Eventually I settled on CAREFULLY applying small amounts of remover with the syringe and using the spudger (both pointy and broad ends) to scrape the remainders off. I cleaned the residual with Q-tips dipped in remover (buy a big box of Q-tips), refastened the speakers, installed the new battery, closed the case and voila.

    James Suojanen - Réponse

    Question, on the first image above you can read a serial and other information ... The creator of the guide could you confirm if it corresponds exactly to the Apple serial on the box? I wonder why I had the laptop in assistance to replace the GPU, and other problems were born once I returned ... to which removed the cover I saw this sticker and I immediately had doubts about it.

    Antonino Auteri - Réponse

    I too found the need to completely teardown the laptop onerous and risky. I’m not certified in anything hardware but I’ve been doing my own repairs for a while. I watched the video referenced above and read the comments there. With some changes, here is what I did, which worked perfectly and minimized the risk, for a whole additional $3 in parts, just myself and in under an hour:

    1. Go to hardware store and get 2 4” bolts ($1 each) and a coil of 20 gauage galvanized wire.

    2. Wrap one end of the wire a few times around one bolt, then tie it off with a knot. Do the same with the other bolt, leaving about 10” of wire between the two.

    3. Follow steps 1-4 in this guide

    4. Slip the wire under one of the outer batteries (use a card or spudger to help get the wire underneath

    5. Grip both bolts with one hand and rock them back and forth, pulling the wire under the battery, using your other hand to hold the case. This should take about 2 seconds (seriously). Repeat for other outer batteries

    (continued)

    steve - Réponse

    6. Pull the plastic frames away from the left and right sides of the center batteries.

    7. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for the two center batteries.

    8. Jump to step 55, then reassemble.

    Note: when installing the new battery, ensure the part closest to you is UNDER the two plastic tabs.

    Worked perfectly.

    Link to video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fupkPz55...

    Note: using the nylon thread with that much effort is crazy. Use the wire or fishing line.

    steve - Réponse

    i just got my Kit and started the procedure, i decided to try if i can get the bulged batteries out with a fishing line, which worked fine. No need to use any solvent and even not too much force was needed to get the line under the batteries. I was able to remove the batteries in about 5min, used another 10min to clean the case from the residue, and put in the new battery. All togehter about 20min of work. I´m very happy with the result, Macbook stays now back on its feet, closes correctly and trackpad works as expected.

    manu - Réponse

    Also departed from procedure immediately after STEP # 4 as per JOEL’s recommendation …used a small chunk of fishing line and it worked sans solvent…easily ! Spudger worked quite well to initially position the string /line & the ifixit ( ‘credit’ ) cards were nice for final dislodging of each battery segment from the last bits of residual gooey adhesive , AFTER working the fishing line back & forth down the length of the battery as much as possible. With the old battery out of the way, I used a razor blade to clean out the remaining bits of adhesive gunk. ( Decided NOT to use solvent here, either.) Took me every bit of 1-hour.

    One thing that helped ,too, was a cheap pair of cotton gloves coated on the palm side w/ latex. This kept my fingers comfortable from the pressure of the fishing line & allowed more of a range of force …since I wasn’t wincing from saw-cutting myself !

    John Joslin - Réponse

    I skipped steps 5-33. These steps are completely unnecessary. I used the back of a flat tweezers to separate the battery from the case.

    support64 - Réponse

    so the only reason they are taking all the stuff off before the battery is because of the solvent?

    I used cards and dental floss and just took the battery out … It was a pain in the butt but i got it out with out using the solvent remover solution.

    GR Verner - Réponse

    I skipped steps from 5 to 33 and directlychanged the battery (before disassembling all). Worked fine.

    derdietrich - Réponse

  5. Utilisez une spatule ou une pincette pour retirer les trois tables d'antenne AirPort de leurs prises sur la carte AirPort.
    • Utilisez une spatule ou une pincette pour retirer les trois tables d'antenne AirPort de leurs prises sur la carte AirPort.

    • Les points de connexion sont fragiles. Veillez à ne soulever qu'au niveau du connecteur et non pas de la prise ou du câble.

    • Pour rebrancher les câbles, alignez les connecteurs au dessus de leurs prises et appuyez fermement avec le côté plat de votre spatule.

    will this procedure remove my warranty? I have applecare for another 2 years, Laptop was dropped on the side, there is a very small dent on the side of I/O.

    Oleg Babko - Réponse

    Yes, this voids your warranty.

    max damage -

    If I am facing the MacBook like I'm surfing or typing, this I/O board is referring to which side of the MacBook? Left or right side? How about replacing the other side of I/O board? The other side I/O port are part of LogicBoard? If I want to replace it, need to replace the whole LogicBoard? TQ.

    Delta - Réponse

    These are notoriously difficult to remove. I actually damaged 2/3 of the connector pins during the process. Thankfully i was still able to fit them in place. This step should not be underestimated.

    Alvin Chua - Réponse

    If you are not replacing the display case assembly, you can opt to leave all 3 connectors attached and remove the Airport card with them connected. You will need to carefully manage the card and attached cables so as not to damage them(masking tape) as you proceed with disassembly/reassembly. Step 6 will need to be done carefully (camera cable connector). I did it after step 8. I took a picture of routed cables as well before I removed them from channel.

    lamajr -

    I damaged 1/3 of these litte guys, how did you get them back together?!

    is there a way to replace the antenna?

    Fabian Schweinfurth - Réponse

    unless you have really tiny fingers, a tweezer helps, just be careful not to damage the wires or the board as your holding each cable in place. Oh and take your time - this is like the most frustrating step in the process, imo.

    Arn Custodio - Réponse

    The order of the cables doesn't seem to matter when re-attaching. It also might be helpful to unscrew and eject the airport card. Having it free can give you a better angle.

    joey - Réponse

    Definitely the hardest step (when putting it back together). The three pins were on progressively longer plugs, so I put the shortest one on the left and so on. This helps with getting the right angle. I used my fingers and the spudger to guide them back in. It took me easily 10-15 minutes to do this. The pattern that worked eventually was to first adjust the angle of the pin head so that it's x/y/z axes would line up perfectly with the connection if you are able to bring it together just so. If you're off on any of these while you try to bring it together, you won't be able to just click it down at the end. Good luck!

    Thomas Kunjappu - Réponse

    Agreed, for some reason, the middle one was stubborn — and I was worried the amount of force I applied to push it back on was going to break something - but it did pop back on.

    Jer -

    After reading so many reviews on ifixit and other sites regarding the difficulty of replacing my MacBook Pro retina screen assembly, I was a bit nervous. Using this walk through made it super easy. Thank you so much for taking the time to create it!

    cabcpa - Réponse

    Removing these 3 tiny cables is completely unnecessary. I removed my fan last week to clean and it slips by these cables. For some dumb reason i wanted to follow this "correct" procedure and now one of the gold connections detached from the wire like it was nothing. Seriously, dont do this. I used a spunger and was very delicate putting it back on... And look what happened. SKIP!

    travismlive - Réponse

    Yeah, I agree, just leave the airport card attached to the pins and remove the card itself. Then you won’t have to fuss with these connectors.

    Jer -

    @tmm Your right on! Just finished replacing my right fan and your tip saved me from messing with these tiny cables. I totally understand your frustration as I was too just about to stick to the procedure, but if it’s any comfort your tip helped someone… so don’t be surprised being rewarded by some good karma :)

    IT’S UNNECESSARY TO DETACH THE 3 TINY CABLES FROM THE CARD, JUST DETACH THE AIRPORT CARD WITH IT’S CABLES ATTACHED BY GRABING IT FROM BOTH SIDES USING TWO FINGERS AND GENTLY SHAKE IT UNTIL IT DETACHES. THEN MOVE THE WHOLE THING A BIT ASIDE.

    THIS STEP IS ONLY NECESSARY TO MAKE WAY TO THE FAN CONNECTOR UNDERNEATH.

    There is one thing though I find missing which concerns:

    1)The rubber heat sink cover

    2 The AirPort/Camera cables

    3)The IO board cable

    All these are “glued” to the fan and you need to peel them off gently using the spudger, now while I noticed that some glue remains on each cable so they will kinda stick again, I wonder what kind of glue is this and where one can buy it?

    Itai -

    These individual instructions are re-used across multiple tutorials. If you are replacing the battery, you probably won’t need to remove the three connections from the Airport card; if you are replacing the display, you definitely need to replace them, because they are connected to the display. I just replaced the battery and the display in a single activity, so I pretty much had to remove everything. Also agree with a previous commentor that it’s easier to reconnect the cables before the card is reconnected to the system board.

    ChrisMBP -

    travismlive is right, you do not need to remove these cables or the airport card. Just remove the I/O board cable, undo the screws, and detach the antenna cables from the fan where they are glued with a spudger. Unlock the ZIF-socket and the you can wriggle the fan out. Probably saved my airport card, thanks travismlive!

    Jasper - Réponse

    I only successfully reattached 1 of the 3 AirPort cables, I just taped the other two. But the AirPort seems to work fine. Do these also have anything to do with Bluetooth though? I do seem to have trouble with Bluetooth after this operation. In any case, it was worth it... I replaced the screen with a new Apple screen for less than 1/2 the Apple Store wanted! Thanks!

    Douglas Johnston - Réponse

    Would soldering them back in place be better than taping? I certainly don't want spare solder on my motherboard, so I figure that'd be a last resort only if I lose AirPort connectivity.

    Douglas Johnston - Réponse

    Assembly is a nightmare. If rightmost cable is not connected, BT will not work.

    Radoslaw Przybyl - Réponse

    the hardest step is reconnecting the airport antenna cables. just have patience< and use tweezers, spluger and a q-tip.

    Frederick Rae - Réponse

    The three cables have different lengths. The longest should to the farthest pin, medium to middle, short to nearest.

    Sam Jomaa - Réponse

    Also, having the right tools will make the job really easy. I used a spudger similar to the one recommended on this web site. But i had ordered a complete kit from amazon.com. I did not have any problem removing or re-attaching the pins.

    Sam Jomaa - Réponse

    tweezers to hold the cable and the flat part of the spudger to push down on the connectors is the easiest way to re-assemble

    Jon Ocampo - Réponse

    Replacing these were the most difficult step I encountered. I finally determined that it took slight back and forth twisting of the cable (from left to right as viewed from above) to cause the connector on the cable to twist into position so it could be pressed down.

    chuck60 - Réponse

    I read your step and you are 100% correct. This helped me tremendously. Thanks!

    Achilles -

    Use leverage with tip of a spudger, it’s not that difficult to pry the cables.

    When you reassemble, use a tweezers to put the connector on the right position and push it down with a finger on the other hand.

    Grab the neck of the cable when using a tweezers.

    eskoo - Réponse

    Several of the people above mentioned not disconnecting these three wires. You must remove and replace these if you are replacing the entire display which is what these instructions are about. This is the most difficult step as others have noted. Just be careful and make sure you have the cable level before you start pushing down.

    Walt Goede - Réponse

    If you are not replacing the display case assembly, you can opt to leave all 3 connectors attached and remove the Airport card with them connected. You will need to carefully manage the card and attached cables so as not to damage them(masking tape) as you proceed with disassembly/reassembly. Step 6 will need to be done carefully (camera cable connector). I did it after step 8. I took a picture of routed cables as well before I removed them from channel.

    lamajr - Réponse

    Reassembling: What makes this so hard? From all appearances I’m just pressing a squat sleeve-and-pin connector down onto the female counterpart. It appears to be circular and therefore not needing to be oriented radially in any particular angle. It doesn’t look hard at all! Does anyone understand what the subtlety is that causes everyone so much grief?

    Chapman Harrison - Réponse

    Reassembling: as so many as commented, this is incredibly hard - and inexplicably so. From all appearances I’m just pressing a squat sleeve-and-pin connector down onto the female counterpart. It doesn’t look hard at all! But I couldn’t do it.

    Here’s what seems to have worked for me: with my left fingertip on the cable holding the connector directly above the female, I used the spudger to press down the flat back of the connector, initially at the top and then sliding along toward the neck. I used normal pressure, and voila, when I lifted the spudger away the wretched wire didn’t spring up again. It was like it wanted to be rocked, or stroked, once, from top to neck, rather than pressed straight down.

    Chapman Harrison - Réponse

    I skipped to step 34. Just pushed up the speakers so that they don’t touch the body.

    Sascha Gl Richy - Réponse

    I totally agree, this step is not tagged contrarely to others while it is the most dedicate !!! 1/ A warning should be added (the 31 comments should have done it…) 2/True it is possible to skip this step. Result for me : 1/3 damaged (the left one). Luckily, everything seems to work airport, bluetooth (so far, I haven’t tried Airdrop yet). Really disappointed by this guide is way below the iFixit’s standard…

    Antochny - Réponse

    Can anyone help me? I would like to replace my speakers. Which steps can i skip?

    Manzil Monabber - Réponse

    I have completed replacing my speakers and this step was not needed at all.

    Manzil Monabber - Réponse

    I just completed the full screen assembly replacement with 90% success I guess. Like many others noted, this was the hardest step, and one them (leftmost) was extra hard, but I eventually got them all back in. However, I don’t have 5G wifi anymore. 2.4 g works fine, bluetooth works fine, and the screen, camera, and mic are all perfectly functioning. I just can’t connect to 5G wifi. Is there a fix for this?

    Aaron C - Réponse

    Absolutely no need to take apart the whole thing, get some strong fishing line and slowly saw the adhesive away. Once the battery is out, (if you are prone to be clumsy just cover/ shield the rest of the computer, than use GOO GONE or the like waiting a couple minutes to scrape out the old adhesive. The only reason they make your take everything out is that they assume you are lazy and will be using the adhesive remover which could damage the rest of the computer if allowed to splatter etc. Just save your self some time and stress, get strong braided fishing line ( works way better than floss or string as it is of a smaller diameter and isn’t smooth and helps the sawing action), and work your way around each cell. This is still way shorter than removing the entire computer and much less likely hood of damaging sensitive connectors.

    Pia Paeh - Réponse

    Putting these 3 cables back was a lot of work. I bent the outer side of the middle cable, but was able to fix it with fine tweezers from the repair kit.

    olegpsh - Réponse

    I did a screen replacement recently using this guide and the disassembly/assembly was fine - very good instructions. But when I turned on the machine there was a very fine flickering, snow-like interference, especially noticeable on black backgrounds. I assumed it was a faulty replacement screen and continued to use it. Recently, I had to change out the battery so I dissasembled the screen again to see if reconnecting it would fix the problem. Now it is perfect. I think the problem was that the left-most (shortest) airport cable connector was touching the black screw next to it on the board and shorting out. Be careful to position this connector well away from that screw.

    rumblefish - Réponse

  6. Avec la pointe d'une spatule (spudger), poussez le connecteur de la nappe de la caméra vers le ventilateur et hors de sa prise sur la carte mère.
    • Avec la pointe d'une spatule (spudger), poussez le connecteur de la nappe de la caméra vers le ventilateur et hors de sa prise sur la carte mère.

    • Veillez à pousser parallèlement à la carte, d'abord d'un côté, puis de l'autre pour faire "sortir" le connecteur lentement de sa prise. Ne faites pas levier, sinon vous allez endommager la prise.

    I've broken camera connection socket, is it repairable?

    Sergey - Réponse

    Same for me too just take the socket from your broken screen and cut it off and solder it onto the new screen. It was really hard because it's so small but I did it.

    bhayes9614 -

    This is much easier if you do step 7 first so you can pull lightly on the cable and take the tension off the connection caused by the stiff cable.

    mayer - Réponse

    This tip worked for me.

    eskoo -

    If you are removing the right fan it is not necessary to unplug the camera cable. You can slip the fan out underneath the cable.

    noahtfu - Réponse

    Hi! Camera flex cable is from MBP Retina Mid 2012 & Early 2013. Not Late 2013 :) Edit it please.

    kramerigor - Réponse

    the tip of the middle 3 wire was broken on the replacement screen. I didn't connect it and everything seems to work fine, mac hardware test says everything is fine... Is it possible?

    micheleroger - Réponse

    Yes. They are wifi antenna cables. Missing one antenna won't affect much, and won't show up in any hardware test.

    Jason Amri -

    Push on the little wings, from right to left.

    Julian Wood - Réponse

    This is the hardest part of disassembly! Arguable hardest part of re-assembly too, other than the airport cables

    Jon Ocampo - Réponse

    The instruction is not clear to me at all. Frankly the comments mentioning things make me uneasy about proceeding further.

    Ben Moore - Réponse

    This came off for me - now my computer’s fan is running high constantly, and “Kernel_task” is using 500% of the CPU even though nothing else is running - what can I do?

    Ryan Brown - Réponse

    It is very important to note here that you are NOT pushing up. You are pulling the cable back toward the fan. Doing step 7 first makes that easier. I misunderstood the instruction here (as others seem to have as well) and broke this part. I’m fine with not having a camera on this computer so I’ll leave it or ask my son to help me solder it later.

    Jen Wells - Réponse

    The wing closed to the edge of the chassis is completely stuck. I’ve worked on it for an hour. The other wing moves freely. I’m not sure what to do now.

    Charles Lindauer - Réponse

    The connector is very tight - I couldn’t even see the join between cable end and the socket and couldn’t see the “ears” on the end of the socket. And, of course, pulling didn’t help. I eventually used tweezers to start things off, gripping on the metal of the socket right where the invisible join was. What a delight to have the join open enough to see! After that, it was easy.

    jerryl - Réponse

    Thank You Jerryl - The tweezers did the trick. They want to pop out so you can use your other hand to apply slight downward pressure to keep them in place. Work both ends of the tweezers gently back and forth and you should start to see the gap get bigger.

    Chuck Barton - Réponse

    I used tweezers and the spudger. Take the point of the spudger and push on one side of the “dog ear” while supporting the other side with the closed tweezers on the cable side of the dog ear. (Could use a second spudger) work one side the move to the other repeatedly until the connection disconnects.

    This is allows You to push and support simultaneously and minimize the chance damaging the connector.

    Jonathan Dowling - Réponse

    Removed cover (Step 7). Released adhesive. Pulled directly out of socket to the left.

    Pushing out of this connector is ill advised, as no mechanical ledge to push.

    Joseph Gorse - Réponse

    The late 2013 Macbook connector is slightly different to the picture, I used tweezers to loosen up first and when the joint appeared used the flat edge of the spludger to push the connector using the gap. Don't rush push this from each side gently till it comes out.

    Lanre O - Réponse

    I found this step to be difficult due to the picture and instructions being incorrect for MacBook Late 2013. Unfortunately, I damaged the pins during this step and my camera no longer works. :^( Please update this step.

    Cristina Stoll - Réponse

    @xtstoll I looked at two separate Late 2013 units today, and both are indistinguishable from what’s shown in the instructions. Are you sure you’re working on the right model? A photo of what this cable looks like on your laptop would be helpful.

    Jeff Suovanen - Réponse

  7. Insérez l'extrémité plate d'une spatule (spudger) sous le cache en caoutchouc du dissipateur de chaleur sur le ventilateur droit. Faites glisser la spatule tout le long du cache, décollant ainsi la bande adhésive. Soulevez le cache et retournez-le de façon à accéder aux nappes en-dessous.
    • Insérez l'extrémité plate d'une spatule (spudger) sous le cache en caoutchouc du dissipateur de chaleur sur le ventilateur droit.

    • Faites glisser la spatule tout le long du cache, décollant ainsi la bande adhésive.

    • Soulevez le cache et retournez-le de façon à accéder aux nappes en-dessous.

    Back (case) side of rubber attachment is flimsy-ish, so need to be delicate when peeling rubber back.

    cahcadden - Réponse

  8. Avec vos doigts, enlevez les nappes Airport et caméra du ventilateur. Les nappes sont collées au ventilateur, dégagez-les donc soigneusement pour éviter de les endommager. Retirez avec soin les nappes du guide-câble en plastique.
    • Avec vos doigts, enlevez les nappes Airport et caméra du ventilateur.

    • Les nappes sont collées au ventilateur, dégagez-les donc soigneusement pour éviter de les endommager.

    • Retirez avec soin les nappes du guide-câble en plastique.

    It's a bit tricky to re-route the cables when you're installing the new display, so pay close attention to how they're originally routed, to make sure you don't pinch them or torque them.

    PriorityMail - Réponse

    Do we need to use some adhesive to paste them back?

    Aniket Suryavanshi - Réponse

    I used scotch tape to temporarily hold the cables in place until I was ready to reinstall the bottom cover, but I removed the tape at that last step (didn’t want it coming loose later, and possibly obstructing a fan).

    ChrisMBP - Réponse

  9. Avec l'extrémité plate d'une spatule, soulevez le connecteur de la carte E/S pour le débrancher de sa prise sur la carte mère. Lors du remontage, reconnectez d'abord cette extrémité car elle ne se plie pas. Procédez de façon similaire pour débrancher le connecteur de la carte E/S de sa prise sur la carte E/S. Ôtez la nappe de la carte E/S du MacBook Pro.
    • Avec l'extrémité plate d'une spatule, soulevez le connecteur de la carte E/S pour le débrancher de sa prise sur la carte mère. Lors du remontage, reconnectez d'abord cette extrémité car elle ne se plie pas.

    • Procédez de façon similaire pour débrancher le connecteur de la carte E/S de sa prise sur la carte E/S.

    • Ôtez la nappe de la carte E/S du MacBook Pro.

    Note that the Mac has been rotated 180º between steps 8 & 9

    peteyx - Réponse

    When reinstalling the io board cable make sure it is the correct way round as in the photo, it fits the wrong way round as well, which results in the MacBook not starting at all.

    bitmat23 - Réponse

    Sockets are ZIF with releasing levers on the top. If you pull up on the top padding, you will reveal silver lever handels facing the rear of the machine. Pry up on the LEVER to release the pressure, then pull the lever straight up to release the connector from the socket. DO NOT pry under the edge of the connector to remove these or you may damage the ZIF socket. They may have changed these connectors between models, otherwise I don’t know how this was overlooked in the guide.

    hybrid - Réponse

    I just did this and there are no silver lever handles. The connectors just pop off when you pry on them.

    edc - Réponse

    After freeing each end of the I/O cable, it can be left stuck to the right speaker, and then remove them both together in step 14.

    Paul Clarke - Réponse

  10. Dévissez l'unique vis Torx T5 de 2,9 mm fixant la carte AirPort À la carte mère.
    • Dévissez l'unique vis Torx T5 de 2,9 mm fixant la carte AirPort À la carte mère.

  11. Saisissez les bords fins de la carte AirPort et tirez-la parallèlement à la carte mère pour l'ôter du MacBook Pro. Saisissez les bords fins de la carte AirPort et tirez-la parallèlement à la carte mère pour l'ôter du MacBook Pro.
    • Saisissez les bords fins de la carte AirPort et tirez-la parallèlement à la carte mère pour l'ôter du MacBook Pro.

    As others have mentioned, it's not necessary to remove the Airport antenna cables. Leave the cables attached and remove the Airport card.

    Swing the card and the attached cables across the fan.

    stvn chng - Réponse

    You may lift a little like few degrees then pull parallel when removing.

    eskoo - Réponse

    There might be a touch of adhesive, lift first – a gentle touch with the spudger helps.

    Tristan Harward - Réponse

    Yes, lift about 5-10 degrees first, then pull out. If you do not release the adhesive, it may be stuck in place and you could damage the card trying to pull it out.

    hybrid - Réponse

  12. Avec la pointe d'une spatule spudger), ouvrez le clapet de retenue de la prise ZIF de la nappe du ventilateur droit. Assurez-vous de faire levier sur le clapet de retenue articulé et non sur la prise elle-même.
    • Avec la pointe d'une spatule spudger), ouvrez le clapet de retenue de la prise ZIF de la nappe du ventilateur droit.

    • Assurez-vous de faire levier sur le clapet de retenue articulé et non sur la prise elle-même.

    • En commençant en haut de la nappe, glissez un outil en plastique sous la nappe du ventilateur droit pour la décoller de la carte mère.

    • Faites attention en décollant la nappe car elle adhère fortement à la carte mère.

    I was able to flip the retaining flap while removing the damaged fan but accidentally dislodged after installing the replacement fan. Again, be very careful at this stage. Thankfully my new fan appears to function normally.

    Alvin Chua - Réponse

    Easier to do while removing fan.

    mayer - Réponse

    The second picture and illustration are not clear enough. The text should say "pry underneath the cable" as I almost broke the fan cable following instruction.

    Kitipong Mork - Réponse

    ZIF = Ziero Insertion Force. Once the tiny retaining flap is up, it should slide out easily toward the back. There was no adhesive on my machine, so the cable slid out easily. But be careful if yours is glued down.

    Don Steele - Réponse

    I don’t know why, but I could pull the connector out & in without flipping up the flap. And fans are working flawlessly.

    eskoo - Réponse

    The pictures were confusing to me so let me add some more context. There is a ZIF socket (Zero insertion force) being addressed in the first picture. This socket has a black top that is currently closed down on the socket. Using your tool you need to lift this flap up to release the wire underneath (This release happens in the second step). Hence only pull up on the black flap enough to make it go from horizontal to vertical (Swing flap). Neither picture shows it in the up position. Step 2, Picture 2, Then gliding your flat spudger, you goal is to lift the wire that was in the ZIF socket out by lightly lifting up on both the wire and the rubber cushion on top of it. Make sure you lift both. You are successful when both are lifted up and out and facing vertical instead of horizontal.

    Frank D - Réponse

    Great clarification, thank you.

    Hunter Gallagher -

    Can anyone advise what to do if the ZIF socket pulls up from the logic board? I was gentle with it, but it pulled up anyway. The fan and ribbon are fine, but I’m worried this will require an expensive logic board repair.

    Jaysmi - Réponse

    To really see which part of the ZIF socket has to be lifted up you should compare the pictures of step 10 and of step 12, preferably in its original size.

    Then you can see that the inner part of the ZIF has to be moved up, away from the batteries.

    Stephan Yaraghchi - Réponse

    I managed to broke the side, thought this was pulling on sides mechanism to release, not just upwards. Luckily I managed to attach it and the fan is working.

    Josip Ricov - Réponse

    Here is video how to open the ZIF socket. https://youtu.be/MQbqpWkCz94?t=360

    Ketut Sandiarsa - Réponse

    Many thanks Ketut, that vid clip really helped!

    Paul Clarke -

  13. Dévissez les trois vis suivantes fixant le ventilateur droit à la carte mère :
    • Dévissez les trois vis suivantes fixant le ventilateur droit à la carte mère :

    • Une vis Torx T5 de 4,4 mm

    • Une vis Torx T5 de 3,9 mm à large tête

    • Une vis Torx T5 de 5,0 mm avec un épaulement de 2 mm

  14. Soulevez le ventilateur droit et ôtez-le du MacBook Pro.
    • Soulevez le ventilateur droit et ôtez-le du MacBook Pro.

    • Lorsque vous remettez le ventilateur, c'est plus facile de reconnecter la nappe du ventilateur pendant que vous mettez le ventilateur en place, plutôt que après l'installation des trois vis du ventilateur.

  15. Avec l'extrémité plate d'une spatule (spudger), soulevez le cache en caoutchouc du dissipateur de chaleur, qui se trouve sur le ventilateur gauche.
    • Avec l'extrémité plate d'une spatule (spudger), soulevez le cache en caoutchouc du dissipateur de chaleur, qui se trouve sur le ventilateur gauche.

    This came of super easy as the glue seemed to have dried up or something of that nature; anyone know if this is an issue?

    Also it seemed like there are clips on sides of the rubber heat sink which I couldn't work out how to clip it back on, so I placed it back where it was after and it seems to be ok; maybe it isn't meant to clip on hard and rather just to be a security measure. Anyone else had this?

    RT0 - Réponse

    I had the same experience as you this was super easy to remove as well.

    spearson - Réponse

    Glue was long gone. It just flops over by itself.

    Jer - Réponse

    I have this feeling that my “noisi fan” was actually the loose end of this rubber cover. So verify that you insert rubber clips back to its slots on under the edge of the sink.

    Albert Stein - Réponse

  16. Dévissez les trois vis suivantes fixant le ventilateur gauche à la carte mère :
    • Dévissez les trois vis suivantes fixant le ventilateur gauche à la carte mère :

    • Une vis Torx T5 de 4,4 mm

    • Une vis Torx T5 de 5,0 mm avec un épaulement de 2 mm

    • Une vis Torx T5 de 3,9 mm à large tête

    check if screw marking here is right

    Oleg - Réponse

    One 3.9 mm T5 Wide Head Torx screw

    what exactly do you mean by wide head torx screw? Is that another torx screw i should buy?

    best regards,

    Seth

    sethroot - Réponse

    “Wide Head” just refers to the head of the screw being a bit wider than the others. It shouldn’t affect the size of the tool needed. That said, I also was unable to remove this screw with a T5. The screw on mine looked corroded. I ended up using Vampliers (great tool).

    maccentric -

    seems like T5 is the wrong screwdriver for the "3.9 mm T5 Wide Head Torx screw"

    ryanbraganza - Réponse

    T4 seems to have worked for me

    jonathaniscarroll - Réponse

    i tried unscrewing the screw with a yellow circle around it but it is not unscrewing i think it is stripped

    Habib Sy - Réponse

  17. Avec la pointe d'une spatule (spudger), ouvrez le clapet de retenue de la prise ZIF de la nappe du ventilateur gauche. Assurez-vous de faire levier sur le clapet de retenue articulé et non sur la prise elle-même. En commençant par le haut de la nappe, glissez un outil en plastique sous la nappe du ventilateur gauche pour la décoller de la carte mère.
    • Avec la pointe d'une spatule (spudger), ouvrez le clapet de retenue de la prise ZIF de la nappe du ventilateur gauche.

    • Assurez-vous de faire levier sur le clapet de retenue articulé et non sur la prise elle-même.

    • En commençant par le haut de la nappe, glissez un outil en plastique sous la nappe du ventilateur gauche pour la décoller de la carte mère.

    • Faites attention en décollant la nappe car elle adhère fortement à la carte mère. Si nécessaire, utilisez un iOpener ou un sèche-cheveux pour faire chauffer la nappe et ramollir l'adhésif. Cela facilitera le retrait de la nappe.

    • Ôtez le ventilateur gauche de l'appareil.

    • Lorsque vous remettez le ventilateur, il est plus facile de rebrancher la nappe du ventilateur pendant que vous remettez le ventilateur en place plutôt qu'après l'installation des vis du ventilateur.

    a question out of curiosity is it possible to remove that left fan completely and use and external fan instead of it?

    and what is that fan for? is it for CPU or VGA? i noticed someone was referring to that fan as vga's fan.

    Albert Einstein - Réponse

    I can't imagine any scenario why one might want to do that Einstein. An external fan on a laptop? Seriously?

    maccentric - Réponse

    be nice, silly

    Richard RUNGE - Réponse

    I would say that my cable was permanently adhered, or at least requires chemistry to remove the adhesive. Definitely check if fan parts are in stock before attempting to remove the cable that doesn't seem to be coming loose from the motherboard.

    orders - Réponse

    Couldn’t manage to “flip up the retaining flap on the left fan ribbon cable ZIF socket.”, in fact think I may may broken a piece off. In the end just pulled out the cable by sliding it down and out (maybe I did manage to loosen it after all). Cable didn’t appear to be glued down thankfully.

    Chris McKay - Réponse

    Holes on the new fan did not exactly match up and ribbon cable has more tension as a result -

    I had to cut the loop on the mount for the 4.4 mm T5 Torx screw. Not ideal.

    Scott Evans - Réponse

    So, what do I do if I break the connector on the board? Serious question, yes I did it. Now, how do I get the replacement part?

    Amin Shah Gilani - Réponse

    The retaining flat is super fragile. And I doubt there’s any practical way to replace it. Don’t know if the connector still works ok without the flap.

    Steven DeRose - Réponse

    After I exchanged the fan it‘s super noisy. I ordered at the ifixit shop and it seems it works but it‘s just super noisy. Does anyone know why?

    Thanks

    Karsten Hullebeck - Réponse

    I have the same issue with my newly replaced fan…sounds worse than the broken one - will need to check with the ifixit team…

    Markus Meßerschmidt -

    reported this to the support team and got a replacement within one day. The new part works fine - no noise at all, old one is on the way back. Thank you iFixit!

    Markus Meßerschmidt -

  18. Retirez la seule vis Torx T5 de 3,1 mm fixant le SSD sur la carte logique.
    • Retirez la seule vis Torx T5 de 3,1 mm fixant le SSD sur la carte logique.

    When I got to this step I realized the screw was stripped. I'm unsure if it was stripped by my efforts -- I used the prescribed P5 screwdriver that was also used for the other screws, and the screwdriver still works when putting the lid back on.

    So to extract the stripped screw in Step 5 I've ordered iFixit's Precision Screw Extractor Set.

    Now I'm wondering if I also need to find a replacement screw since I probably won't be able to use the stripped one again after it's been extracted? The screw is called: 3.1 mm T5 Torx screw as per this guide .. the best I can find on eBay are screws called: 1,4 X 3,1 mm Torx T5 or 1,5 X 3,1 mm Torx T5 ... will one of these work? Would I be able to just go to a hardware store and find the proper screw or is it a specialty item?

    Lorte Messenger - Réponse

    I'm sure you've long since figured it out, but for the benefit of anyone else reading this, a P5 is not a T5. It's a different screwdriver. The driver for the screws on the outside of the case will not work on the screw holding the SSD. I'm not sure why they left it off in the list of tools at the top.

    Dave Miller -

    The screws on the outside of the case are Pentalobe.

    The screw for the SSD is Torx.

    Both drivers are (now) on the list of required tools.

    (However, my devices both have a T6 head, not T5. May have been after-market.)

    jkgarrett17 -

    For the Macbook Pro Retina 15" Late 2013 models, I've heard the SSD is soldered to the logic board. This guide is for that model, but it doesn't address the soldering issue. Have I just been misinformed on this issue? Has anyone tried it with the late 2013 model yet?

    Elaine - Réponse

    The SSD is not soldered to the board. You maybe thinking of the RAM which is soldered. (thank you apple) *dripping sarcasm*

    Ryan Tucker -

    I was needing to send my mid 2014 15" MacBook Pro in for a keyboard repair, and my company IT department shipped me a loaner of the same model except that it had a smaller SSD in it than mine, and said I should swap the SSDs between the two and then send mine back with the smaller drive in it to get fixed. I've been unable to swap the drives because neither mine nor the loaner (which are both the same model) appear to have a T5 screw holding the SSD in place. Both of them appear to have a T4, not a T5 (whatever it is is smaller than a T5 anyway, so I'm guessing it's a T4). So now I'm on hold until I can find a T4 screwdriver.

    Dave Miller - Réponse

    OK, got the new tool set, and yes, it really is actually a T5 screw, you just need a really sharp driver. My existing T5 driver was getting a little dull on the tip. So make sure you have a really new/precision T5 driver/bit to use (and again I'll point out that ifixit failed to list this tool in the list of needed tools at the top).

    Dave Miller -

    It's definitely a T5, just takes more control vs only strength. I went left and right in small increments while pushing down to let the screwdriver dig in before slowly being able to loosen it up.

    Toan Tran - Réponse

    Both of my A1398 computers (Mid-2012 Retina 15” and Late 2013 Retina 15”) have a screw that my T6 bit fits perfectly. If using a T5 screwdriver/bit makes your screw seem stripped, try the T6.

    (The 2012 was purchased second-hand, and the 2013 was purchased from a dealer known for unauthorized upgrades; it is possible my screws were swapped.)

    jkgarrett17 - Réponse

    I’m pretty certain this screw is a tiny bit larger diameter than the others — I mixed it up and tried to use it elsewhere, and it wouldn’t fit, so IO swapped in another and set this one aside. Later when I got to this point, other screws were too small and wouldn’t grab. So I tried the one I had set aside earlier, and it fit perfectly. That might explain why this one seemed “stripped” to another commentator.

    Steven DeRose - Réponse

  19. Soulevez légèrement le côté le plus à droite du SSD et faites-le glisser tout droit hors de sa prise sur la carte logique. Soulevez légèrement le côté le plus à droite du SSD et faites-le glisser tout droit hors de sa prise sur la carte logique.
    • Soulevez légèrement le côté le plus à droite du SSD et faites-le glisser tout droit hors de sa prise sur la carte logique.

  20. Utilisez la pointe d'un spudger pour faire basculer le verrouillage du câble de données de la carte E / S et tournez-le vers le côté de la batterie de l'ordinateur. Utilisez l'extrémité plate d'un spudger pour faire glisser le câble de données de la carte E / S directement hors de sa prise sur la carte logique.
    • Utilisez la pointe d'un spudger pour faire basculer le verrouillage du câble de données de la carte E / S et tournez-le vers le côté de la batterie de l'ordinateur.

    • Utilisez l'extrémité plate d'un spudger pour faire glisser le câble de données de la carte E / S directement hors de sa prise sur la carte logique.

    • Ne soulevez pas le câble de données de la carte d'E / S car sa prise est très fragile. Tirez le câble parallèlement à la face de la carte logique.

    This is a difficult step. A few images for the removal of the cable would be good/better

    Robert Jan Lebbink - Réponse

    I helped me to use the pliers both to get underneath the canble lock and then push on the wings of the cable.

    Calvin Truong - Réponse

    Used fingers on the cable lock.

    Joseph Gorse - Réponse

  21. Retirez les deux vis Torx T5 de 3,1 mm fixant la carte E / S sur la carte logique. Soulevez soigneusement la carte d'E / S et retirez-la ddv boitier inférieur.
    • Retirez les deux vis Torx T5 de 3,1 mm fixant la carte E / S sur la carte logique.

    • Soulevez soigneusement la carte d'E / S et retirez-la ddv boitier inférieur.

    This did not want to come out. The bottom was really wedged in there good. I had to pry up the bottom part with a screw driver. The funny thing was it was really easy to put back in. *shrug*

    Jer - Réponse

    it actually has an extra screw that needs to be removed.

    Reid Rankin - Réponse

    Thank you. Removing the screw by the heat sink really helped get this board removed.

    Christopher Hofmann -

    It helped me to push the IO board further into the casing and then lifting.

    Calvin Truong - Réponse

    i/o cable was much easier to remove after freeing the i/o board & slightly lifting it. SK

    Stefan Kirchanski - Réponse

  22. Utilisez l'extrémité plate d'un spudger pour retirer le connecteur de la prise casque de son socket sur la carte logique.
    • Utilisez l'extrémité plate d'un spudger pour retirer le connecteur de la prise casque de son socket sur la carte logique.

    After connect the cable aux is not working

    deepak selvanathan - Réponse

    Strange, I'm working on the same model, and it doesn't have a flex here. It's soldered.

    Ross Karnes - Réponse

    Same as Ross. No cable to pry. It’s soldered. But looks like I can continue on anyway

    Cameron Melvin - Réponse

  23. Utilisez l'extrémité plate d'un spudger pour incliner et sortir le connecteur du haut-parleur gauche  de sa prise sur la carte logique. Utilisez la pointe d'un spudger pour incliner et sortir le connecteur de haut-parleur droit  de sa prise sur la carte logique
    • Utilisez l'extrémité plate d'un spudger pour incliner et sortir le connecteur du haut-parleur gauche de sa prise sur la carte logique.

    • Utilisez la pointe d'un spudger pour incliner et sortir le connecteur de haut-parleur droit de sa prise sur la carte logique

    • Veillez à travailler sur le capuchon du câble, et non sur la prise elle-même. Appuyer sur le socket peut l'empêcher de se séparer de la carte logique.

    This step could use an image showing the cable lock in the "up" position, releasing the connector. It is hard to see how it works in the "down" position. I think this is the actual connector - there are images in the PDF linked here:

    http://www.ddknet.co.jp/English/products...

    My MBP has an intermittent connection in this keyboard cable. It would be good to know where to buy a replacement!

    Rich - Réponse

    Pry the speaker connectors *up and out*. Doing it from the cable's sides, next to connectors, is easier.

    Kitipong Mork - Réponse

    Not sure what happened, but when I put it back together, i barely had enough room to plug this back in. It’s like the cable shrunk. I had to really yank on it to get it to fit.

    Jer - Réponse

    Adhesive under the left cable made it hard for me to remove it. The right one came out very easy.

    Calvin Truong - Réponse

    i broke off all the connectors to the logic board any fix for this ?

    Steven Rai - Réponse

  24. Retirez toute bande adhésive  qui pourrait couvrir le connecteur de la nappe du clavier.
    • Retirez toute bande adhésive qui pourrait couvrir le connecteur de la nappe du clavier.

    On Re-assembly, I found this to be the hardest part. I resorted to using the provided tweezers and taking turns left and right, working it back into its ZIF socket. If someone knows a better way, please share.

    Fred Anderson - Réponse

    I just got done with this and my plus/equal, tilde/apostraphe, brackets/braces and volume up keys are not working. Wondering is this isn't seated correctly or if i damaged something. :-(

    sturmjonny - Réponse

    This is one of the fussier flex cables to reconnect. I'd say it's worth opening it back up and reseating it. Only takes a few minutes—just disconnect the battery and then come straight to this step. Make sure the cable contacts are clean (wipe them with a little isopropyl alcohol and a lint-free cloth), and that the connector is clear of any dirt/debris (give it a good blast or two with some compressed air). Make sure the cable is inserted perfectly flat and straight into the connector (this is the hardest part, just takes patience and a little dexterity). Good luck!

    Jeff Suovanen -

    This is really a pain to pull out. You sorta have to lift it up and out - I was worried I was going to flex the cable and break it too much.

    Jer - Réponse

    Use the retaining flap to pull the ribbon cable back into the socket.

    Andrew Dunning - Réponse

    This keyboard ribbon is so thin. It is like thinner than X-ray film. I was afraid to remove the ribbon from the socket. So, I skipped this step and follow other steps till ‘Step 30’. I didn't remove the logic board as shown in Step 31 and 32. Instead, I removed DC board screws and then DC board from the hole. The cable from the DC board connected at bottom corner of the logic board. I hold the MacBook Pro vertically and lift the logic board slightly and removed the DC board ‘plug’ from the socket. Next, I plugged in the new DC board and followed this procedure in reverse order ( from Step 30 to Step 1). Everything went fine. Important Note: When lifting logic board, please do it carefully and very slowly. Don’t be hurry and don’t break anything. Use magnifying glass and Magnifier in your iPhone to see the tiny parts big and clearly, before removing them.

    Jay Rajamanickam - Réponse

  25. Utilisez l'extrémité plate d'un spudger pour soulever le volet de retenue sur la prise ZIF de la nappe du clavier. Assurez-vous de faire levier sous le volet de retenue à charnière, et non pas la prise elle-même sinon vous risquez de la détacher de la carte. Utilisez l'extrémité plate d'un spudger pour retirer délicatement la nappe du clavier de sa prise en poussant d'abord d'un côté puis de l'autre.
    • Utilisez l'extrémité plate d'un spudger pour soulever le volet de retenue sur la prise ZIF de la nappe du clavier.

    • Assurez-vous de faire levier sous le volet de retenue à charnière, et non pas la prise elle-même sinon vous risquez de la détacher de la carte.

    • Utilisez l'extrémité plate d'un spudger pour retirer délicatement la nappe du clavier de sa prise en poussant d'abord d'un côté puis de l'autre.

    What is the connector to the right of the keyboard (shown in the above diagram i.e with battery at the bottom)?

    There doesn’t seem to be anything attached to this connector on my system.

    The trackpad connector looks quite similar to the leftof thekeyboard connector.

    Darrell Haslam - Réponse

  26. Utilisez l'extrémité plate d'un spudger pour retirer le connecteur du câble ruban du trackpad  de sa prise sur la carte logique.
    • Utilisez l'extrémité plate d'un spudger pour retirer le connecteur du câble ruban du trackpad de sa prise sur la carte logique.

  27. Utilisez l'extrémité plate d'un spudger pour extraire le connecteur de rétro-éclairage du clavier de sa prise sur la carte logique.
    • Utilisez l'extrémité plate d'un spudger pour extraire le connecteur de rétro-éclairage du clavier de sa prise sur la carte logique.

  28. Utilisez la pointe d'un spudger ou de votre ongle pour soulever le volet de retenue sur la prise ZIF du cordon du microphone.
    • Utilisez la pointe d'un spudger ou de votre ongle pour soulever le volet de retenue sur la prise ZIF du cordon du microphone.

    • Assurez-vous de soulever le volet de retenue à charnière, pas la prise elle-même.

    • Retirez le câble ruban du microphone de sa prise.

    A small elastic popped out when removing the cable. Glad I wore the protective glasses.

    Louie - Réponse

    Meaning, pull the ribbon cable out horizontally. And be aware that the copper wiring is on the underside of the cable and the topside is just black plastic, so don’t freak out and think you ripped something pulling it out.

    Chapman Harrison - Réponse

  29. Utilisez la pointe d'un spudger pour retirer le verrouillage du câble de données d'affichage et tournez-le vers le côté alimentation  de l'ordinateur. Tirez le câble de données d'affichage hors de sa prise sur la carte logique.
    • Utilisez la pointe d'un spudger pour retirer le verrouillage du câble de données d'affichage et tournez-le vers le côté alimentation de l'ordinateur.

    • Tirez le câble de données d'affichage hors de sa prise sur la carte logique.

    • Ne soulevez pas le câble de données d'affichage, car sa prise est très fragile. Tirez le câble parallèlement à la surface de la carte logique.

    I'd recommend using the pliers.

    Calvin Truong - Réponse

  30. Utilisez l'extrémité plate d'un spudger pour retirer soigneusement le bouchon de vis en caoutchouc sur la tête de vis surélevée près du connecteur MagSafe 2.
    • Utilisez l'extrémité plate d'un spudger pour retirer soigneusement le bouchon de vis en caoutchouc sur la tête de vis surélevée près du connecteur MagSafe 2.

  31. Retirez les six vis suivantes fixant la carte logique dans le boitier:
    • Retirez les six vis suivantes fixant la carte logique dans le boitier:

    • Une vis de 2.6 mm T5 Torx

    • Deux vis de 5.8 mm T5 Torx

    • Une vis de 3.8 mm T5 Torx

    • Une vis de 5.2 mm T5 Torx tête plate

    • Une vis de 3.5 mm T5 Torx grise

    While you're doing this, unplug the right speaker before you lift the logic board. That is the only step missing in the guide.

    anthony - Réponse

    anthony: Unplugging the right speaker connector was done in step 23.

    Kitipong Mork - Réponse

    when following on the contrary, its good to check all the ribbons and cables to make sure some are not stuck under board prior to screwing down.

    Robert Gregory - Réponse

    green indicator: raised head screw is the one you removed the rubber cap from in prior step. (I removed – and then replaced — a different screw in this step. Revisited it with more daylight and saw my error.)

    auntialias - Réponse

  32. En partant du côté le plus proche de la batterie, faites pivoter la carte logique vers le haut du MacBook Pro. À l'aide de l'extrémité plate d'un spudger, appuyez tirez soignieusement  le connecteur MagSafe 2 hors de sa prise au bas de la carte logique. Lorsque vous remonter la carte mère, contrôlez les nappes aux endroits marqués pour vous assurer qu'elle ne sont pas coincées sous la carte mère.
    • En partant du côté le plus proche de la batterie, faites pivoter la carte logique vers le haut du MacBook Pro.

    • À l'aide de l'extrémité plate d'un spudger, appuyez tirez soignieusement le connecteur MagSafe 2 hors de sa prise au bas de la carte logique.

    • Lorsque vous remonter la carte mère, contrôlez les nappes aux endroits marqués pour vous assurer qu'elle ne sont pas coincées sous la carte mère.

    • En partant du haut dans le sens d'une aiguilles d'une montre : clavier, trackpad, batterie, haut-parleur droit, rétroéclairage du clavier, écran, microphone, prise casque, haut-parleur gauche.

    In bullet #1 I lifted logic board from left side (nearest battery), tilted toward right side (port side) and pulled to to the left a bit to get ports out of chassis cutouts.

    Then I followed bullet #2.

    Kitipong Mork - Réponse

    Going revese order, remember about mic connector and backlit connector. Those nasty small tails are easy to omit. Then you will have to repeat disassembly to get them from under mainboard.

    Radoslaw Przybyl - Réponse

    Agreed with Radoslaw's comment. It might even be nice to have a list of small cables to watch for during logic board reassembly.

    talarohk - Réponse

    @radioerewan @talarohk - I think that's a good idea. I went ahead and added a photo showing all the cable locations to check—hopefully it will save someone some trouble! Thanks for your comments.

    Jeff Suovanen - Réponse

    Yes heed everyone’s warning. I had to remove the entire logic board TWICE because i forgot to pull out the antennae and the backlit keyboard plug.

    Jer - Réponse

    Yes, be very careful before screwing things down. I also forgot the backlight and the display cables. Had the cover for the display cable out, but not the actual cable. I was able to use tweezers to fish the cables out after removing the screws but without removing the whole board.

    E Carlton Hays Jr - Réponse

    My logic board was stuck under the battery PCB, on the top right side of the battery PCB, when viewed like in the first picture.

    I suggest removing the two screws from step 35 holding the PCB down for a little more wiggle room before attempting to remove the logic board.

    Tom - Réponse

    I had to go back cause I couldn’t figure out where the logic board connector into (under the board). Funny enough i assembled it and it worked though the night and didn’t come on again. Had to go through the whole process b4 i figured it out. Definitely a good idea to at least breeze through all the images

    Yemi Dalley - Réponse

    In link Remplacement de la carte mère du MacBook Pro 15" Retina mi-2015 step 34 the second picture exit the procedure install ZIP

    raul - Réponse

    reassembly: so far the hardest step. After getting all the connectors above board, I still couldn’t quite line up the screw holes. It finally turned out that the board was being prevented from being in its full leftward position because the edge of a flange at the top of the USB port was directly positioned against the edge of a flange on the case. I used my thumbnail to press down on the port’s flange so that it slid under the case flange, allowing the board to shift left another half-millimeter and make everything finally line up.

    Chapman Harrison - Réponse

    I Just removed the whole power connector with the main board, seemed a little easier. But that’s just me. Good manual thou.

    Timothy de Wal - Réponse

    Had a lot of trouble getting the power cable out. Would definitly recomend this.

    Calvin Truong -

    100% take the power connector out. This guide is amazing but that is something I would change in it. Also I would do step 35 before attempting to remove the logic board. Unsure if there are other implications of this approach.

    kevinhayes656 -

    Am I completely stupid? ...! When I wanted to remove the mainboard, it was still connected to a plug. I searched, but found no indication about this plug. So I had to try to figure out how this plug works. I started trying, which finally tore the console off the board: -o ...: .- ( It is a small plug to the right of the power supply - Pic. #3 top right!!. Comes below the battery. Note, this must be pushed backwards, but may have a lock. What can I do now? If someone has a tip that I do not have to change my motherboard, I am very, very grateful!

    privat - Réponse

    I had the same issue where that cable was still connected. I noticed that it was the same type as another one where it needed to be lifted vertically so I did that using the tweesers.

    Jonathan McCaffrey -

    Definitely unscrew and remove the two screws that hold the MagSafe 2 connector then remove the connector with the board.

    The connector that’s not mentioned in the dissasembly manual is the right hand loudspeaker connector. It pulls up, just the same way as the left hand loudspeaker connector does. No locking tab.

    Other than that it’s a brilliant dissasembly instruction manual, well done.

    I took the logic board out, re-soldered U8900 (well known issue with these boards) and put it back together following the manual in reveres. All works fine now.

    One thing that I did which helped. I printed the manual off, then stuck the screws in every case to the page next to where each screw was described using cellotape. So every screw went back exactly where it came from.

    Steve Hills - Réponse

    For me, this step was the most hard part when reassemble. Because it is easy to forget or hard to reconnect MagSafe 2 connector properly. I had to give in to professionals just to find out i couldn’t plug this MagSafe 2 connector properly. because of it’s limited angle and i only have 2 hands to do the job while board is lifted.

    kmg125 - Réponse

    Instead of disconnecting the magsafe socket, I unscrewed the two screws holding it to the case. Then, when the logic board is removed, the connector will slide out with the logic board. Also useful to if theres a bunch of magnetic junk stuck to the adapter as it becomes easy to clean.

    max - Réponse

  33. Retirez l'assemble de la carte mère du MacBook Pro.
    • Retirez l'assemble de la carte mère du MacBook Pro.

  34. Retirez les trois vis suivantes fixant le haut-parleur gauche au boîtier supérieur : Une vis Torx T5 de 5,6 mm
    • Retirez les trois vis suivantes fixant le haut-parleur gauche au boîtier supérieur :

    • Une vis Torx T5 de 5,6 mm

    • Une vis Torx T5 de 6,9 mm

    • Une vis Torx T5 de 2,6 mm

    • Soulevez le haut-parleur gauche du boîtier supérieur et mettez-le de côté.

    On my MBP there was an adhesive holding the speakers down. So, "lifting" was not exactly accurate.

    Fred Anderson - Réponse

    Yeah there’s a tiny smidgen of glue around the speaker itself. I just slowly put force on it and it ripped off quite easily.

    Jer - Réponse

    I have A1398 15 inch , need to replace or fixed left speaker but i can’t find One 2.6 mm T5 Torx screw(yellow one), any idea what to do here?

    Biswajit Patra - Réponse

    can you get too the speaker without taking the logic board first

    gianguyen1991 - Réponse

    How it possible to get speaker out if system without taking the logic board first?

    Biswajit Patra -

  35. Retirez les trois vis suivantes fixant le haut-parleur droit au boîtier supérieur : Une vis Torx T5 de 5,6 mm
    • Retirez les trois vis suivantes fixant le haut-parleur droit au boîtier supérieur :

    • Une vis Torx T5 de 5,6 mm

    • Une vis Torx T5 de 6,9 mm

    • Une vis Torx T5 de 2,6 mm

    • Retirez le haut-parleur droit du MacBook Pro.

    My speaker wire was wedged under the edge of the battery. I proceeded to step 35 and removed the two battery screws. This freed up the cable.

    Fred Anderson - Réponse

    Mine was stuck too, and I did what Fred did and waited to step 35 to try and remove the cable. It turned out not to be wedged under anything, but just glued in place.

    Chapman Harrison - Réponse

Conclusion

Pour réassembler votre appareil, suivez ces instructions dans l'ordre inverse.

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13 commentaires

Am I required to change both speakers if only one is damaged? The top of the guide explains it should be replaced as a pair... Don't see why it would be required? Thanks

Lukas Pechar - Réponse

I have the same question - clearly one speaker is buzzing while the other sounds fine. Why replace both?

Andrew -

Speakers are frequently tested for frequency response and impedance and ones that are similar are paired with one another for installation as a matched set. I presume this is the reasoning behind the statement at the top of this guide.

agorophobe -

Great guide! My speakers sound fine now! Thanks to your guide, man!

RD Rubio - Réponse

Why is there a need for the speakers to "be replaced as a pair" as noted in the introduction, why can't just one be replaced? or was this not the intention of the author when he wrote that sentence?

Jonathan S - Réponse

Great Guide, was easy to work with! Thanks for you effort you put into this guide to help other people.

Alexander Jung - Réponse

I don’t have any instruments for the screws - if I was to order it online, what instruments would I need to order?

Nate Chilton - Réponse

any t5 torx screwdriver will do

ImmortAL Pang -

The speaker set should have similar life span, when one is broken, another will come to its end of lift soon. I think that’s the reason replace the whole set to prevent another 2 hours work in near future.

Ray Cao - Réponse

A1398 2012 has both speakers with 6-pin connectors. All the replacements available online are 4 pin out speakers. Specifically, when I used a 4-pin left replacement speaker (by the headphone jack), the headphone detection became an issue coming out of sleep mode. If the laptop was restarted then headphone plugging/unplugging worked OK. I put back the old 6-pin left speaker and it all worked fine. Can anyone shed some light on this issue? Interestingly, most online seller of this product don’t show the number of pins on the left speaker connector.

Bobby Patel - Réponse

The left speaker of my Retina, Mid 2012 Macbook Pro is creaking. Would it work if i just change the left one? Did anybody just change a single one instead of both? It seems that the left speaker is easy accessable without unplug the logicboard and all the stuff. Why is it necessary to unplug everything? I appreciate your help guys. Thanks!

flo_ryan - Réponse

I replaced just the right blown speaker. So far so good, both working fine. Pretty straight forward direction to follow from this guide.

AJ Wilhelm - Réponse

just 3 months later and the original left speaker has now blown. wish i had replaced both at the same time while I had everything taken apart ;)

AJ Wilhelm -

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