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Introduction

Suivez ce tutoriel pour remplacer le Taptic Engine dans votre iPhone 6s. Le Taptic Engine est le moteur de rétroaction vibratoire et haptique de l'iPhone. Si votre téléphone ne vibre pas ou ne fait pas de bruit, le remplacement du Taptic Engine peut remédier à vos problèmes.

  1. Avant de démonter votre iPhone, déchargez la batterie en dessous de 25%. Une batterie lithium-ion chargée peut prendre feu et / ou exploser si elle est accidentellement percée.
    • Avant de démonter votre iPhone, déchargez la batterie en dessous de 25%. Une batterie lithium-ion chargée peut prendre feu et / ou exploser si elle est accidentellement percée.

    • Éteignez votre iPhone avant de commencer son démontage.

    • Retirez les deux vis Pentalobe P2 de 3,4 mm situées au bord inférieur de l'iPhone, de part et d'autre du connecteur Lightning.

    Hi, just got the repair kit that came with IPhone 6S battery. I felt that there’s no explanation on which tool to use to remove the two 3.4mm P2 Pentalobe screws. It’s not helpful just to say “Remove the two 3.4 mm P2 Pentalobe screws on the bottom edge of the iPhone, next to the Lightning connector. “. It’s more important to explain how and what tool to use. The repair tool kit tools were not marked at all and it’s not right to assume that people know which tool or part to use. Please kindly address this issue. Thanks. Janet

    Janet Monaghen - Réponse

    @beingchen For the P2 pentalobe screws you should use the driver bit marked P2. Might be a little hard to see but it’s there, etched into the side of the bit.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    It’s very clear which tool you need. As it says these are “3.4 mm P2 Pentalobe screws” - so you need a 3.4 mm P2 Pentalobe screwdriver…

    alexanderbrix1987 - Réponse

    Just a P2 driver—3.4 mm is the length of the screw.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    If you can’t identify which screwdriver in the kit to use, you probably shouldn’t be working on your phone. Just sayin’

    Keith Hockenbeck - Réponse

    Is it ok to replace the battery if the phone screen is broken?

    Reem - Réponse

    Of course! As long as the screen and battery are disconnected from the motherboard, you can replace anything!

    Charles Bejarano -

    is it possible to change my battery on my iphone 6s and use a battery that has been already used in another 6s

    morgan durnford - Réponse

    Yeah it would work, but if the battery heath on the 2nd battery is bad, just get a new one.

    Charles Bejarano -

    @moe6802 Removing the battery can damage it, and it shouldn’t be used afterward. It may seem fine, but even minor battery damage can lead to a fire hazard. Not worth it for such a cheap part. If you need a battery, just get a new one.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    How do you discharge a battery? Do you just let the battery drain or is there something less time consuming that you can do?

    Matthew Petts - Réponse

    There is no easy way to discharge the battery in “less time”. Perhaps the fastest way is to play a visually-complex modern game or otherwise make your phone do a lot of work.

    Lance J -

    So my phone screen is completely black causing me to see nothing that is on my screen. And the battery is above 25%, near 100%. What do I do??

    Jessica I - Réponse

    you should post a question on the answers forum

    Seizure Salad -

    you should post a question on the answers forum

    Seizure Salad - Réponse

    I can’t the screws with the P2, seems that the screws are stuck, what can i do?

    Alberto Jabiles - Réponse

    My kit came with 3 screws. Are those to replace these 2 P2 screws? And what’s the third one for?

    Daniel Morse - Réponse

    If it came with 3 screws, then it’s an extra one just in case if a replacement screw gets lost.

    Charles Bejarano -

    My display is cracked/broken and not functioning. The slide bar doesn’t work. How do I shut down my phone?

    Timothy Huss - Réponse

    i have replaced several ipod batteries and laptop work, but these screws seem to loose but do not come out. how am i to remove them.shake the iphone?it seems the ioen is not in my kit, is that how to remove them?

    this seems idiotic but i remember some other system magnets that firt make your screws easier to keep, but this might be changed….any video? this seems 1st step blues!!!!

    makinfilms - Réponse

    never ind ishook it… is that in the guide?….iopener is not in the kit……never was before is this an upsell? do i skip it? i dont have it

    makinfilms - Réponse

    My screws aren’t coming out either. I’ve loosened them, but they aren’t coming out. I’ve shaken the phone, given it some slight bangs…nothing.

    Jesse Fisher -

    The following info is not given until step 21 in the instructions, and probably too late at that.

    DO NOT disconnect or reconnect any of the cables in this device until the battery itself has been disconnected!

    Don’t skip that step, intending to do it at the end, as you may damage the phone.

    ffissk - Réponse

    2 thoughts:

    1) Really? Steps 14-17 are about disconnecting the battery first, and step 17 notes “so it doesn’t get reconnected while you work.” How’d you get to step 21 and miss 14-17?

    2) These pages are user-editable. (Probably (hopefully) “curated” by iFixit staff.) You should add a warning to step 17 (or step 24).

    Bass Clef -

    NOW THAT YOU’VE REMOVED 2 SCREWS, and

    BEFORE YOU SNEEZE them into oblivion, or under the refrigerator (which is the same in many houses)

    MAY I suggest:

    1) Obtain:

    — a piece of paper, such as normal printer paper (not too much writing on one side)

    — a piece of tape, not too sticky, like masking tape (duct tape would be bad)

    ——— 1-1.5 inches (2.5-4 cm) wide

    ——— 6-8 inches (15-20 cm) long

    — a pencil (or pen)

    2) Put the paper on the side of your work area

    3) Lay the tape, sticky side up, on the paper

    4) Fold each end of the tape (~1 inch/2.5cm) back under itself, so the folded part faces the paper. Press the folded-back tape onto the paper

    You now have Sneeze & Wind Insurance for your tiny bits!

    5) Put the 2 pentalobes end down on the top end of the tape, next to each other. Push them a little onto the tape so they stick

    6) Use your pencil to note on the paper next to the screws: “1. Pentalobes”

    Now you may proceed with dissassembly, without worrying about telling the 1.5mm from the 1.6mm screws.

    or about sneezing!

    Bass Clef - Réponse

    My phone has a bad battery and a bad connector and I wasn’t able to get all of my photos before it died. Is there any chance I won’t lose them when I replace the battery? Or, is there any way to charge a 6s battery with a bad connector?

    Liz R - Réponse

    There is a great chance that photos, which are stored to flash memory, which is solid state memory, which is not affected when power is lost, will be there, right where you left them, once you restore power to your device. You could install a partially charged battery into your phone and then retrieve the important things, like your photos, if you don’t intend to continue using the phone. Else look at replacing the lightning connector assembly. Here: Remplacement de l'ensemble connecteur de charge Lightning de l'iPhone 6s

    TimD -

    The P2 is not getting the screws loose at all. I have tried this several times and no budge on my iPhone 6s.

    Cassandra Vigil - Réponse

    To avoid to be screwed by lost or mixed screws:

    - Use magnetic pad, wipeable

    - Write the ifixit- steps next to the screws (maybe even with their sizes) and other bits removed

    with a non-permanent marker

    - When finished, simply wipe the pad, and it’s ready for the next repair

    Hope that helps.

    Ulrich Janßen - Réponse

    I found a pentalobe 1 driver to work much better.

    joelkevinjones - Réponse

    The suction cup didn’t hold at all. I tried Windex and then hospital grade alcohol, but nothing worked. Finally had to use two exacto knife blades to begin lifting the screen. As soon as I got a little gap, used the spudger tool the rest of the way, The small philips driver didn’t fit the screws exactly, but with a little effort they came out. My battery adhesive strips snapped immediately and I had to remove the original battery the “hard way”. The kit came with replacement display adhesive but no explanation how to use it. I got some on - so better than nothing. Overall I’m happy with the results, and the new battery is charging now.

    Daniel Wolf - Réponse

    First step problem? Couldn’t get the screws out. I checked my other iPhone and realized the screws were missing!Just started prying it apart.

    Hoyt Smith - Réponse

    I went through the whole procedure, replaced the battery and got the screen back on. Then the 2 pentalope screws would not go into their sockets. They sink in all the way and spin, but it appears there are no threads to grab. The screen seems to be in position since I can insert a plug into the headphone jack without trouble. Did anyone else have this problem. Using the phone now with no screws. Yikes.

    Walter Plante - Réponse

    Hi Walter, in case you’re still dealing with this or anyone else has the same problem, check that the screw bosses on the bottom of the screen are straight and line up with the screw holes on the case. They should be at a 90° angle to the screen, but they’re easy to accidentally bend and could’ve gotten flattened against the screen.

    Adam O'Camb -

  2. Vous pouvez aussi utiliser un iOpener ou un sèche-cheveux pour chauffer très légèrement le bord inférieur de l'iPhone pendant une minute.
    • Vous pouvez aussi utiliser un iOpener ou un sèche-cheveux pour chauffer très légèrement le bord inférieur de l'iPhone pendant une minute.

    • La chaleur permet de ramollir la colle qui fixe l'écran facilitant ainsi l'ouverture.

    What about specifying the hot air temperature?

    Nicola Centrone - Réponse

    The glue softens pretty easily, so the exact temperature isn’t critical. Get it slightly too hot to touch. If you have trouble, heat it a little more and try again.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    What temperature on the screen separator lcd machine and for how long?

    Manraj Gulati - Réponse

    This is the first time I opened my 6s since it was purchased new four years ago. Even without heat, constant and firm works enough to be able to squeeze the flat edge of the spudger. From that point and without any additional pulling from the suction, twist the spudger gently to “walk” it open on both sides.

    Family Juinio - Réponse

    I used a hand towel folded in half and a clothes iron on the cotton setting (med-high heat, no steam). Placing the doubled towel between the phone and the iron, I would set the iron down for about 20 seconds (my iron has a timer that beeps when left horizontal for too long). Lift the iron, check the temperature (aiming for just too hot to touch), reposition as needed, repeat. It took me a while, but that’s because I took my time not knowing how fast this would heat. All-in-all, about 2 minutes to reach the right temperature to loosen the adhesive (it IS tenacious).

    Sarah Wruck - Réponse

    Holy. Redii eirhejbrd

    Andy Carson - Réponse

    just been given a 6s to repair, for this stage would a hot water bottle work ??

    Steven James - Réponse

    I used a hot-water bottle to keep the iPhone warm while prying patiently, though the moving surface added to the challenge.

    Before that, I put the iPhone - screen facing down - to warm on the coffee cup heater (45°C) of an espresso coffee machine. Half an hour seemed more than enough.

    A hot-water bottle filled with water at 60°C would do the job I think.

    Later repeated the same heating before removing the adhesive strips under the battery (allowed me to extract each strip successfully, rolling it on the body of the spudger).

    And also before putting the new display assembly adhesive under heavy book weight.

    Aubin -

    I heated a stone pestle in the air fryer, wrapped in a cloth.

    Ark - Réponse

    I didn’t have any of the heating tools listed here so I improvised:

    To soften the glue I heated water in a pan (not boiling but quite hot).

    I put the phone in a thick plastic bag in the water for about 20 - 30 seconds. (I checked the bag was properly watertight first by dipping it in water – minus the phone). Maybe I was lucky but the screen came away easily doing it this way.

    Henrik Dahle - Réponse

  3. L'ouverture de l'écran sur le 6s sépare une mince bande d'adhésif autour du périmètre de l'écran. Si vous préférez remplacer l'adhésif, préparez un ensemble de nouvelles bandes adhésives avant de continuer.
    • L'ouverture de l'écran sur le 6s sépare une mince bande d'adhésif autour du périmètre de l'écran. Si vous préférez remplacer l'adhésif, préparez un ensemble de nouvelles bandes adhésives avant de continuer.

    • Appliquez une ventouse sur le coin inférieur gauche de l'écran.

    • Prenez soin de ne pas placer la ventouse sur le bouton Home.

    • Si votre écran est très fissuré, le recouvrir d'une couche de ruban adhésif transparent peut permettre à la ventouse d'y adhérer. Vous pouvez également utiliser un ruban adhésif très résistant à la place de la ventouse. Si tout le reste échoue, vous pouvez coller la ventouse sur l'écran cassé.

    Hello, I was wondering if there was a guide of how to replace the adhesive strips, thank you

    Pablo Reyes - Réponse

    The suction cup will not work if you have a shattered screen. I put a tip of an exacto knife between the glass and side frame above the power connector, carefully pried up then used the spluger to pry the rest of the way up.

    johnmurphyjr - Réponse

    Tape will work as well in order to create a smooth surface

    Nick Stine -

    Even tape didn’t work on my first shattered screen 6S disassembly. Had to reset to the exacto/thin blade technique.

    Peter Bovey - Réponse

    For me, it seemed like I only had one shot at the suction cup. It stuck on firmly the first time, but I noticed in the instructions that it was placed more on the side. I detached my suction cup and repositioned it and now it doesn’t stay (sucked) on. Hmmm.

    Frank Terence - Réponse

    Can you use the iSclack opener to open the iPhone 6s?

    Joe Koffee - Réponse

    The iSclack is helpful, although you have to use it a bit differently than you would on, say, a 5s or 6. The iSclack alone isn’t strong enough to pop the display open, because of all the adhesive around the perimeter of the 6s display. But you can use it to lift the display just enough to get a tool in there and start cutting the adhesive. Basically, the iSclack does the same job as the suction cup shown here, with maybe a bit less fuss.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    My screen was SUPER shattered… the hair dryer did the trick. Patience it definitely the key… I tried putting tape over the glass but the suction cup wouldn’t stick to it at all but it stuck to the broken glass for a few seconds. I taped it up when I was finally able to move onto the next steps to keep the glass from getting everywhere then peeled it off for Step 10.

    Mandy Ng - Réponse

    Hi, it looks like, from reading the comments, that separating the display assembly from the phone is a tricky step.

    Would the piece of equipment, in the link below, be any use at this stage? Seems it could be used for all makes and models.

    Any info would be appreciated.

    https://youtu.be/8it4o9tx8tQ

    Michael - Réponse

    I have a screen protector on my phone. I was wondering if it was going to be problem for the suction cup.

    jeffreyleung2002 - Réponse

    I can only suggest to use a hair dryer to loosen up the adhesive underneath the display. Mine was stuck so hard it wouldn't barely move. After warming ist up I could softly pull ist up with way less power

    olonetzky - Réponse

    A question, has anyone had success removing a cracked (not shattered) screen? My phone has a single diagonal crack from the top right corner down to the left side. Will the suction cup still work?

    goblazers - Réponse

    The suction cup material was very stiff and wouldn’t adhere well even after thoroughly cleaning the screen. Applying heat from a hair dryer helped with that, too.

    Karleen Smith - Réponse

    A packing tape handle worked well for me instead of the suction cup. I folded a piece of packing tape in half leaving two ends to stick to the part of the screen indicated for the suction cup placement and used the center fold as a handle.

    Diana Riddle - Réponse

    I found that a 3rd hand helped here. Lots of heat and as others say, a strong, steady pull, but you are only creating a gap to get the spludger in, not ripping the screen away from the body. Once I created the teeny gap I had someone else get the spludger in to hold it open while I shifted my grip.

    Steve - Réponse

  4. Tirez sur la ventouse avec une pression ferme et constante pour ouvrir un léger espace entre le panneau avant et le boîtier arrière. Prenez votre temps et appliquez une force ferme et constante. L'écran complet a un ajustement beaucoup plus serré que la plupart des appareils et est maintenu enfoncé à l'aide d'un adhésif.
    • Tirez sur la ventouse avec une pression ferme et constante pour ouvrir un léger espace entre le panneau avant et le boîtier arrière.

    • Prenez votre temps et appliquez une force ferme et constante. L'écran complet a un ajustement beaucoup plus serré que la plupart des appareils et est maintenu enfoncé à l'aide d'un adhésif.

    • Tirer trop fort peut endommager l'écran. Appliquez juste assez de pression pour créer un petit espace entre l'écran et le boîtier arrière.

    • Si vous avez des difficultés, faites chauffer l'avant de l'iPhone à l'aide d'un iOpener, d'un sèche-cheveux ou d'un pistolet à air chaud, jusqu'à ce qu'il soit légèrement trop chaud au toucher. Ceci permet de ramollir la colle qui fixe les bords de l'écran.

    No, really. Do this on a table and use less strength than you think. If you open the display the whole way at this step you can easily rip the home button connections and one of several display connections at the top. <— too much experience... :(

    chuymatt - Réponse

    Wow, that was tough. Patience, patience, patience. Did not use the iOpener, just firm and consistent pulling with the phone on a flat surface. When the suction cup comes off... clean the display surface and go back at it. I did use the pointed end of a spudger inserted into the headphone jack to hold down the bottom case whilst I pulled on the suction cup. Once there was sufficient room (see next step) you can just get the spudger (flat end) to slide in slightly.

    plisi - Réponse

    If you're lifting up on the glass, how are you supposed to hold the rest of the phone down? Is it by holding the camera end down with the side of your hand and rotating your hand, or using your other hand (not pictured) on the edges (seems very difficult), or using a spudger in a jack?

    Bryan - Réponse

    I got a fingernail on the metal edge and that did the trick.

    David Heinbach -

    On the 6s, which has an annoying black adhesive strip holding the display assembly on, I use the iSclack to loosen a very small area near the home button then insert a thin spudger and gently twist it a bit to release the adhesive. Do this around the bottom and both sides of the phone to release the screen. I usually have to break some of the adhesive strands when the opening is big enough.

    scentaur - Réponse

    My spudgers just too thick for initial insertion. In the end, fingernail on my thumb got me started, and I was able to get plastic picks in there to work it. The microwavable iOpener gel strip really helped.

    Heidi Moser - Réponse

    Thanks plisi, your comments are helpful. I had to apply pressure several different times. Didnt realize until about the seventh time applying pressure that what I was doing was slowly loosening the adhesive. Patience is truly the key with this step. You may not think you're progressing but it's slowly prying away.

    amylofton - Réponse

    What happens if the cup won't even stick to the display because it is cracked and it will not hold air near the bottom of the phone?

    Jaredrett - Réponse

    hey everyone, i just did my first iphone 6S display...after many 5, 5c, and 5s iphones...just keep trying and carefully insert the spunger where they said...right around the headphone jack. The black adhesive makes it very tough to get it off unless you work at one corner. Be careful...but you can do it! ;-)

    David Althaus - Réponse

    Use a razor, and go along the outside of the phone carevilly using the razor as a spudger. it will efficiently cut and weaken the adhesive while spudging the screen away from the frame. only takes 15 mins.... Use a workbench razor, not a flimsy one. If possible, use one where one side of the razor has a gaurd on it for better grip. Take it slow and try not to scratch the frame. Lots of pressure and patience is key!!!

    Goodluck!!

    -J

    Jaredrett - Réponse

    The first time you pull it apart there's black glue tape that you'll have to compete with to get it open. Be careful

    Jeff - Réponse

    Use a hairdryer about 2-3 inches from the phone on high heat for about a minute, moving the dryer the entire time. The phone opened for me in less than a minute after trying for several minutes without heating up the phone.

    Todd Leach - Réponse

    Careful ..delicate work. I also used a hot hair dryer around the perimeter for just a couple minutes to help loosen the adhesive bond. I then used my sadly short finger nail to help loosen the edge. I placed dental floss under the corner & carefully lifted the display very very slowly. This worked within about 3 minutes. As mentioned earlier the adhesive used in the iPhone 6s is very strong but this routine worked like a charm & was quick!

    Mary Blocher - Réponse

    Much easier to do using the Spudger that is provided in the Pro Tool Kit. It has a thinner fin type head. The Spudger provided in this repair kit is definitely too thick and makes it far more difficult.

    Tyler Brady - Réponse

    The spudger is too thick and the glue is too strong. Pulling up broke the glass below the power button. Now I am out $200 for a repair, plus a battery. Bummer. I am VERY good at repairing things. The adhesive on this is very very strong. The pentalobe tip that they send with the kits not milled well and I had to take a file and flatten the tip to get it to work - it is not finished well at all. I used the kit for the iPhone 6 for my Mom and had no problem. I am 51 and have been fixing things since I was very young.

    greghabiby - Réponse

    Well, I shattered my screen trying to do this. So now I need a battery and screen repair. Not happy.

    Carolann Parran - Réponse

    Me too! Be gentle!

    Matthew Simoenau -

    Me as well, I went very slowly, was working the spudger around the edge and then it shattered. Just going to buy a replacement phone and I was replacing the battery to gift this to my sister as a hand-me-down and now it’s not worth it. Perhaps I can sell the kit second hand…

    kpederso -

    Removing the display was the hardest part of the whole job. The adhesive is very strong, but just be patient. What I ended up doing was to use the suction cup, the flat end of the spudger, and an iFixit opening tool. I used the suction cup on the screen as directed. Then I placed the flat end of the spudger just a bit into the charging port and held down the phone body by the spudger on my work mat. I pulled up on the suction cup, pushed down on the spudger, and inserted the thin iFixit opening tool in the small seperation. I took my time and worked my way around all of the edges. After that it was really easy. I was able to reuse the adhesive, and my new battery install went just as planned.

    Eric Olson - Réponse

    Use a hair dryer as per the suggestions and this will definitely make the job easier and reducing the risk of breaking the display . Keep a steady pull of the display, don’t rush and it will start to show the small separation gap. An issue is that it will go back in place if you stop pulling before you can use the spudger tool. The suction tool that came with my repair kit did not have a ring on it as per the guide picture. It has a blue handle that is open on the side. I sat at my kitchen desk and opened a drawer. I hooked the open edge of the suction handle around the drawer side edge which me a third hand. I held the phone with one hand and pulled it away from the desk drawer. Once the separation started I could use my other hand with the flat edge of the spudger to complete the separation. Hope this helps.

    emaneht - Réponse

    Hair dryer - 1 minute until it’s hot like a fresh mug of coffee. Then as soon as you see the smallest gap, insert a razor blade above the phones jack, I needed to slide it towards the charge port and back. Once it slips in keep it there and use your spudger to enlarge the gap and slide it along the corners.

    Steve Esson - Réponse

    Yes, I used the tip of a sharp knife as a pry tool to get me started. Since the screen was cracked anyway I figured I had nothing to lose. It went fine.

    David Heinbach -

    Also tried it with the hair dryer - worked like a charm. 5 Minutes and the phone was open. The whole repair procedure took me about 45 minutes, and was ok. Re-assembling the three display-connectors has been a bit tricky, but with careful movements and taking the time it needs it was not a big problem. New display is very good, phone looks like new :-)

    Christian Woelk - Réponse

    My glass was broken and the suction cup wouldn’t hold on the tape. I used a very thin knife an slowly worked between the glass and the phone frame. Please keep in mind that my phone had been run over by a Ford F150, so I really had nothing to lose.

    Michael Cleveland - Réponse

    What is unfortunately unclear is just how to 1. apply sufficient force and keeping the phone secure with only one hand, 2. whether this is best done on a table to use its opposing surface to secure the phone.

    The suction cup is a worthless tool because flexes too much to provide a good hold. Mine slipped and popped away three times. -The last time causing a crack in the screen.

    ffissk - Réponse

    Glad I read these comments about the screen cracking because I was really trying to force this thing open (with some heat applied already), but it wasn’t budging. Kept applying heat and light force and eventually it started coming apart. The suggestion for placing the pointed end of the spudger in the headphone jack while prying up worked for me and an extra set of hands would have been ideal.

    In the end, with the spudger in the headphone jack, placed a guitar pick in between the screen and the backing and slid it along the bottom left. Left the tip of the guitar pick in to hold the gap and then was able to use the spudger to complete the process as shown.

    Nicholas Anchor - Réponse

    Beware! I cracked the screen. Used iOpener, iFixit spudger etc. I managed to get the spudger into the gap by the headset socket and worked my way up the left, when I came to do the right the screen was cracked. I was taking it slow and steady but clearly that wasn’t enough. Be VERY careful.

    James - Réponse

    Heat is essential, and take it very slowly. Also take seriously the instruction to open just enough to get the spudger in there—then do the real work with that. The suction is just to get started. I had my son insert the spudger as soon as there was any gap at all, then worked it according to the guide.

    I did this on a card table with a vinyl surface so I could lay the phone down. Then I held the metal frame on both sides while pulling the suction cup—my son having the spudger at the ready. Definitely be patient! I had to restart several times when the suction cup popped off and I accidentally reengaged the clips pressing it back on.

    Matt Burleson - Réponse

    I didn’t have any of the heating tools listed here so I improvised:

    To soften the glue I heated water in a pan (not boiling but quite hot).

    I put the phone in a thick plastic bag in the water for about 20 - 30 seconds. (I checked the bag was properly watertight first by dipping it in water – minus the phone). Maybe I was lucky but the screen came away easily doing it this way.

    Henrik Dahle - Réponse

    I did the hair dryer three or four times and applied all of the pressure i could on the suction cup and it just wouldn’t budge. My phone is old and i had a waterproof case on it for a long time that really pressed down on the glass so it would seal. I think having that on for three or more years really sealed the glass!!!! Didn’t want to break it so will live with my battery as is…..it last most of the day and i am usually around a car charger or home. Just thought i would add a comment that said man i gave it my best shot and opted not to do it. I really liked the kit though and the tool will come in pretty handy to repair other small things.

    David Petr - Réponse

    This was waaaaay the hardest bit for me. Took ages Almost gave up. Allow AT LEAST twenty minutes. Endless patience pulling, then resting for a bit then pulling again. S.T.E.A.D.Y Keep at it long after your inner voice is saying ‘why did you think you could do this. You have never mended anything in your life.’ Then you see the gap and like a steady bomb disposal expert you quietly winkle it apart.

    Cindy Clarke - Réponse

    Used heat from a hairdryer, gentle pulling to lift the glass at the position above the headphone jack one to 2 millimetres with the suction cup, then put my thumbnail in the gap and pulled up gently a bit more to fit the spudger, and mainly slid the spudger as indicated around the glass, bottom first, and then sides to within about a centimetre of the top at most, to release the display. I found very little prying is needed. Once a gap of about a millimetre or 2 is created, that is enough to release the display from the adhesive.

    Nando - Réponse

  5. Il y a une encoche sur la face inférieure de l'écran, juste au-dessus de la prise de casque. Ceci est l'endroit le plus sûr pour commencer à ouvrir le téléphone. Placez l'extrémité plate d'un spudger dans l'espace entre l'écran et le boîtier arrière directement au-dessus de la prise casque.
    • Il y a une encoche sur la face inférieure de l'écran, juste au-dessus de la prise de casque. Ceci est l'endroit le plus sûr pour commencer à ouvrir le téléphone.

    • Placez l'extrémité plate d'un spudger dans l'espace entre l'écran et le boîtier arrière directement au-dessus de la prise casque.

    WARNING: easy to stretch/ruin the adhesive

    As you proceed, know that you must keep ALL of the adhesive stuck to the phone. If any stays stuck to display, it can become permanently stretched as you are prying and lifting. Then you’ll need to buy the replacement adhesive, once it’s back in stock!

    Jason - Réponse

    If you’re opening the phone at all, you’re compromising the adhesive. There is absolutely no way to somehow open it perfectly so you can re-use it. Fortunately, it’s cheap and fairly easy to replace—and not even that critical on the 6s series anyway, since it’s not doing any real waterproofing.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    I had a badly cracked screen. Packing tape helped the suction cup stick. Heating the phone helped soften the adhesive, and in the end I pried the screen up at the headphone jack with a sharp pointy knife. That helped me get the spudger underneath. Not recommended if the screen is ok, like for a battery replacement, but mine was cracked so I figured I had nothing to lose. Great guide.

    David Heinbach - Réponse

    There are two relatively delicate brackets that the two P2 Pentalobe screws screw into. They can be easily bent during this prying open process. I ruined one on my phone and I’m hoping the phone will function with just one bracket.

    dougdalglish - Réponse

    +1 on the pointy knife to get the screen pried up. I couldn’t get the suction cup or tape to adhere well enough due to the glass being so shattered. I heated it for quite a while with the hair dryer on high, got a very sharp knife tip under the glass where the “notch” is, and used that to pry upward while another person slid the end of the spudger into the gap I was holding open with the knife. This one step was basically a three-handed job.

    johnjustinirvine - Réponse

  6. Tournez le spudger pour accroître l'écart entre  le panneau frontal complet et le reste du téléphone. Tournez le spudger pour accroître l'écart entre  le panneau frontal complet et le reste du téléphone.
    • Tournez le spudger pour accroître l'écart entre le panneau frontal complet et le reste du téléphone.

    No need to turn the spudger full 90°. Just turn it a little.

    Martin Born - Réponse

    should have a warning to be very gentle when doing this as the screen is glass - i shattered my screen following this guide

    Martin McAnespie - Réponse

    Do not twist spudger! Broke my screen. Thanks, iBrokeIt.

    Trevor Snow - Réponse

    As others have said, do not twist the spudger. To release the display, you only need to create a gap of a few millimetres. Better to slide the spudger as directed to release the adhesive, bottom left and right.

    Nando - Réponse

  7. Insérez l'extrémité plate du spudger sur le côté gauche du téléphone entre l'écran et le boîtier arrière. Faites glisser le spudger sur le côté du téléphone pour séparer l'adhésif et faire sauter les clips.
    • Insérez l'extrémité plate du spudger sur le côté gauche du téléphone entre l'écran et le boîtier arrière.

    • Faites glisser le spudger sur le côté du téléphone pour séparer l'adhésif et faire sauter les clips.

    I’ve found it very easy to open the phone with one of the blue opening picks.

    Just slide it along the left and right side of the display.

    Martin Born - Réponse

    Excellent idea. No matter which tool you use take your time so not to damage the display assembly further. Even a cracked screen is a great test tool or spare to use while doing other repairs when it still comes on.

    Bryan Solo -

    Do not go into the top left corner too far your screen will crack i learned the hard way

    Kevin - Réponse

    Your phone died

    Ipod Touchh0 - Réponse

    ok but where js the oart about puttung ut back together? mine diesnt snapinto place,……

    makinfilms - Réponse

    Use two spudgers.

    One placed in the original breech position to be used as a wedge.

    The other to get worked around the unit.

    These spudgers are going to get destroyed in the process and will not likely be great for another repair.

    ffissk - Réponse

  8. Retirez le spudger et le réinserrez-le sur le bord inférieur où vous avez ouvert le téléphone. Faites glisser le spudger vers la droite, le long du bord inférieur du téléphone.
    • Retirez le spudger et le réinserrez-le sur le bord inférieur où vous avez ouvert le téléphone.

    • Faites glisser le spudger vers la droite, le long du bord inférieur du téléphone.

  9. Faites glisser le spudger sur le côté droit afin de continuer à séparer l'adhésif et faire sauter les clips de l'écran de l'iPhone. Faites glisser le spudger sur le côté droit afin de continuer à séparer l'adhésif et faire sauter les clips de l'écran de l'iPhone.
    • Faites glisser le spudger sur le côté droit afin de continuer à séparer l'adhésif et faire sauter les clips de l'écran de l'iPhone.

    This is some important step here I reckon. I didn’t release the clips individually and gradually, so when I pulled, the two halves of the phone separated quite suddenly and the cables ripped in half. Had to order a screen.

    Neil Bass - Réponse

    How do I release the clips individually? Is there a good explanation?

    Dan Schwartz - Réponse

    i personally use a utility knife and it helps separate the metal bracket that's on the screen from the phone housing

    Andre G. Bashore -

  10. Utilisez la ventouse pour ouvrir l'écran, tout en rompant le dernier adhésif. Ne pas ouvrir l'écran à plus de 90º car il est toujours connecté en haut par trois nappes qui peuvent se déchirer si on tire trop dessus.
    • Utilisez la ventouse pour ouvrir l'écran, tout en rompant le dernier adhésif.

    • Ne pas ouvrir l'écran à plus de 90º car il est toujours connecté en haut par trois nappes qui peuvent se déchirer si on tire trop dessus.

    Prop it up on something

    Nick Stine - Réponse

    an old iPhone box and a rubber band lightly around the display works great to hold it at 90

    Christa - Réponse

    You could use a clock weight with 2 socks wrapped around it and an elastic band to keep the screen at a 90 degree angle.

    AudiRo808 - Réponse

  11. Tirez sur la petite surélévation en plastique sur le côté de la ventouse pour la retirer du panneau frontal. Tirez sur la petite surélévation en plastique sur le côté de la ventouse pour la retirer du panneau frontal.
    • Tirez sur la petite surélévation en plastique sur le côté de la ventouse pour la retirer du panneau frontal.

    Pulling up on the “nub” is a futile waste of time.

    ffissk - Réponse

  12. Saisissez doucement l'écran et soulevez-le pour ouvrir le téléphone, en utilisant les clips en haut de la face avant comme une charnière. Ouvrez l'écran à environ 90 ° et le posez-le contre quelque chose pour le garder calé pendant que vous travaillez sur le téléphone. Ajoutez une bande de caoutchouc pour maintenir l'écran bien en place pendant que vous travaillez. Cela évite de forcer sur les nappes de l'écran.
    • Saisissez doucement l'écran et soulevez-le pour ouvrir le téléphone, en utilisant les clips en haut de la face avant comme une charnière.

    • Ouvrez l'écran à environ 90 ° et le posez-le contre quelque chose pour le garder calé pendant que vous travaillez sur le téléphone.

    • Ajoutez une bande de caoutchouc pour maintenir l'écran bien en place pendant que vous travaillez. Cela évite de forcer sur les nappes de l'écran.

    • À la limite, vous pouvez utiliser une canette de boisson fermée pour maintenir l'écran.

    Smart idea :)

    x226 - Réponse

    on the third picture, the screen is opened more than 90 degrees.

    Mirza Zohaib - Réponse

    It said about 90 degrees

    Nick Stine -

    Actually it literally says, “Don't open the display more than 90º, as it is still connected at the top by three cables that may break if stretched.”

    David -

    In the second picture I was originally wondering what that diagonal piece of material was. Now that I've done a repair I can say that it's the sticky adhesive around the edge of the phone lifting up with the screen.

    jonl - Réponse

    Be careful when separating the halves not to pull off the black tape on the back of the screen half. Mine was stuck to the two halves and I thought it was double sided tape to holding the halves together. It was shredded in separating the 2 halves. It turns out it covers up some kindof of silver paste (purpose unknown) on the back of the screen so I cut a put a piece of plastic film to match it and taped it in place. We’ll see what happens…

    Jamey Gerlaugh - Réponse

    can of soup and rubber band did the trick.

    Big Al - Réponse

    this is bs as they do not tell you reverse how to snap the fuker back on…..putting it in back on!,!!! the guy asks for points for writing thus? why not make a video you dirk….and how to put it back on….what about the other adhesive?..? you moron it says mothing…anyone else have a link? oi could barely put the screws back in..

    takimg the fuker apart is easy….putting the $@$* together again? humpty dumpty!”!!!

    makinfilms - Réponse

    When replacing the screen, make sure to get the top (camera side) lip in first, then work downward along the sides, getting the edge with the home button in last.

    johnjustinirvine - Réponse

    i normally use the long pick as a prop like that on a vehicle

    Andre G. Bashore - Réponse

    It should be noted that to camera end of the screen body needs to hook under the edge of the body…..the hooks of the screen frame need to be under the rim of the main body and snugged toward the camera end to easily close the cover and have it properly clip. These hooks are not really a proper hinge but clasps that need to be under the rim of the main phone frame/edge!! This way the screen easily will return to its closed state nicely gently snapping into place!!

    BRIAN Lee - Réponse

  13. Retirez les deux vis cruciformes maintenant la fixation du connecteur de batterie :
    • Retirez les deux vis cruciformes maintenant la fixation du connecteur de batterie :

    • Une vis de 2,9 mm

    • Une vis de 2,2 mm

    • Tout au long de cette réparation, faites attention à chaque vis et remettez-les exactement à leur emplacement d'origine pour éviter d'endommager votre iPhone.

    In order to put the correct screw back where you took it out mark the head surface and a small dot beside the hole with a pen. Use coloured pens if you want the exact location for each screw/hole. This goes for steps 17, (23) and 29 too.

    lionno1 - Réponse

    Please! Please! Please! Invest in a Magnetic Project Mat or its equivalent from fixit. It will assist you with completing your repair.

    Ian Baldwin - Réponse

    I just taped down a 8.5 x 11 white piece of paper on my desk and drew a rough image of it, then ‘taped’ the screw I removed to the “image” on paper. It worked just fine. (My first time ever opening an iphone, so give it a shot!)

    italianchick99 - Réponse

    If you missed it from the beginning (like I did) it’s the #000 Philips for all screws except the Pentalobes.

    Max Cox - Réponse

    if you get a plastic ice cube tray, and a fine marker pen, text the sizes on each cube compartment as you follow the guide, also stops the screws getting lost

    Brendan Cranny - Réponse

    used sheet of A4 paper and bluetak - stick screw in bluetak, write location & size on paper

    Kev Salmon - Réponse

    mine is missing a screw!!! this is bs! this was mynmithers ohone nonone ooened it….one screw only…im liesed offf

    makinfilms - Réponse

    For some odd reason the screw “One 2.2 mm screw “ orange circled seems to be stuck and can not be unscrewed.

    Ahitagni Mandal - Réponse

    that could be because of the threaded part might have been broken (i've run into that a few times) never fun but pretty easy to work around it if needed

    Andre G. Bashore -

    Take a picture of the opened phone. Print it out. Put double sided clear tape over the picture of each screw. Stick the screws to the tape on the picture where they belong.

    Jeffrey Smith - Réponse

    Rounded corner, both here and Display cover, takes the Longest screw.

    David.

    David - Réponse

  14. Retirez la fixation du connecteur de batterie de l'iPhone. Retirez la fixation du connecteur de batterie de l'iPhone.
    • Retirez la fixation du connecteur de batterie de l'iPhone.

    Little bit of adhesive holds this down- you do have to use the tiniest bit of force.

    Edward Coe - Réponse

    Pay careful attention to the orientation of this plate so that when it comes to re-installation you put it back the correct way. Sounds obvious but I’ve found it inverted in one customer’s phone, which led symptoms of charging failures and repeated spontaneous restarts.

    Jonathan Bradley - Réponse

    that's something i've never heard happening before wow

    Andre G. Bashore -

    The replacement battery’s connector is just slightly thicker vs the original. When I put the screen back on (also a replacement part from Ifixit) I get a blue shadow because the battery connector is putting pressure on the screen.

    steven pruchniewski - Réponse

  15. Utilisez la pointe d'une spatule (spudger) pour déconnecter le connecteur de batterie de la carte mère en faisant levier. Utilisez la pointe d'une spatule (spudger) pour déconnecter le connecteur de batterie de la carte mère en faisant levier. Utilisez la pointe d'une spatule (spudger) pour déconnecter le connecteur de batterie de la carte mère en faisant levier.
    • Utilisez la pointe d'une spatule (spudger) pour déconnecter le connecteur de batterie de la carte mère en faisant levier.

    Be sure not to skip this step. It is crucial. I have had many repairs where the screen will not light up after the repair if the battery had not been disconnected and reconnected.

    Andrew spoelstra - Réponse

    Thanks for the tip, Andrew.

    William Turner -

    It should also be mentioned, DO NOT USE A METAL SPUDGER. You could short the battery to other nearby metal parts. I've done that, the battery clip arced to the metal cover on some of the logic board chips, and my phone wouldn't power back on for 3 days. They should put a caution caption on this step. I've had this happen on a 5S as well.

    Frank - Réponse

    Thanks for the tip, Frank.

    William Turner -

    SERIOUS WARNING!: During *reassembly*, you should NOT reconnect the battery connector until the VERY LAST step (upon reassembly!), as many people, including myself, apparently have smoked (burned, destroyed) the main Logic board. This happens when you reconnect the LCD/digitizer assembly FPC cable. ifixit should modify this instruction to be very explicit about this!

    enoughstatic - Réponse

    It sounds like several people, including myself, had trouble charging the new replacement battery past about 10%. This ended up being due to the new battery not having a non-conductive insulator. The way to solve this is by adding a small piece of electrical tape to cover the battery connector before screwing in the battery connector bracket over it. You may want to do this on the first go-around.

    If you do experience that problem, I found the answer here and it worked perfectly: iPhone battery not charging after DIY battery replacement. Why?

    Heather Pastushok - Réponse

    Thanks to Heather Pastushok (and Behrang Mohajer at “iPhone battery not charging . . .) for this important detail. My iFixit battery came with a thin layer of black foam insulation on the top surface of the battery connector, but even gentle pressure from a blunt plastic tool (pushing the connector in place) scraped an exposed spot. A carefully trimmed piece of black electrician's tape provided peace of mind. The iPhone 6s is good as new with the battery now at 100%!

    Robert Dering - Réponse

    Thanks to Heather Pastushok (and Behrang Mohajer at “iPhone battery not charging . . .) for this important detail. My iFixit battery came with a thin layer of black foam insulation on the top surface of the battery connector, but even gentle pressure from a blunt plastic tool (pushing the connector in place) scraped an exposed spot. A carefully trimmed piece of black electrician's tape provided peace of mind. The iPhone 6s is good as new with the battery now at 100%!

    Robert Dering - Réponse

    To reduce risk of battery arcing , as soon as the old battery connector was detached, I wrapped it with insulation from connection all the way to the battery body. Did the same with the new battery to eliminate concerns about shorts while checking fit position to assure the connector would match up with the receiver. Only removed the insulation after all other connections had been restored, so plugging in the battery was the last step before closing the case.

    Robert Dering - Réponse

  16. Eloignez le connecteur de batterie de la carte mère afin qu'il reste séparé de sa prise, pour éviter toute connexion accidentelle à la batterie lors de la réparation. Eloignez le connecteur de batterie de la carte mère afin qu'il reste séparé de sa prise, pour éviter toute connexion accidentelle à la batterie lors de la réparation.
    • Eloignez le connecteur de batterie de la carte mère afin qu'il reste séparé de sa prise, pour éviter toute connexion accidentelle à la batterie lors de la réparation.

    If you remove the grey bar with the word “TAPTIC” next, removal of the battery adhesive is much easier. It can be pulled straighter back with less chance of tearing. Here’s an image with the securing screws identified.

    If you securely anchor the screen to a can of soup, it is not necessary complete step 16 Front Panel Assembly. I was able to remove the two bottom (1.2 mm) screws and the 2.8 mm screw, but could not get the upper (1.2 mm) screw. I was able to remove the old battery with the Front Panel Assembly left in place.

    Edward Dziuk - Réponse

    Amazing tip Edward, I followed your tip exactly and agree to definitely remove the “TAPTIC”

    italianchick99 -

    Hi what it is called black cover between battery connector and sim card tray? Thanks

    Rajendra - Réponse

    How in the world does one reapply the edge adhesive without making a mess?

    gary - Réponse

    I misread the directions and pulled off the whole large sheet first. I was able to align the bottom of the smaller sheet into the edge of the phone and get the adhesive into the right area. It was a little tricky but once it dropped down it was in the right place. I would have liked an indication of which was top and which was the bottom of the adhesive. The corners seemed slightly different and I aligned the bottom ones carefully.

    Diana Riddle -

    the new battery from ifixit came with a dented connector and wont connect to the logic board. What do I do?

    Adam Frederick - Réponse

    are you suuuuuure you didn’t dent the connector? i know if i had received a battery with a dented connector, i’d immediately contact the seller so you probably dented it yourself and now you’re trying to trick all us but we’re on to you.

    unibody deluxe -

  17. Retirez les deux vis cruciformes de 1,5 mm qui maintiennent le Taptic Engine en place.
    • Retirez les deux vis cruciformes de 1,5 mm qui maintiennent le Taptic Engine en place.

  18. Retirez le Taptic Engine de l'iPhone. Retirez le Taptic Engine de l'iPhone.
    • Retirez le Taptic Engine de l'iPhone.

Conclusion

Pour réassembler votre appareil, suivez ces instructions dans l'ordre inverse.

94 autre(s) ont terminé cette réparation.

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Guide very clear and toolset and replacement battery worked just fine. I replaced battery without disconnecting front panel. Both glued strips got broken (I didn’t remove Taptic Engine) but I managed to rescue strips by carefully leveling up battery with the spudger and picking the strips with twezzer. Then it was easy to pull the glued strips thanks to the gap gained between battery and rear panel

Iphone 6s is back to life. Sorry for my poor English writing skills (creo que escribo mejor en Spanish)

Thank you all

avilece4 - Réponse

A very good clear guide, and my iphone 6s works fine, restored with the new replacement battery. The replacement battery came with a full set of tools, including sucker, screwdrivers, spudgers and even a packet of screws.

I must admit, although the guide was excellent and well illustrated, I found it a bit of a challenge. I don’t know if my age (nearly 80) didn’t help , with a slightly shaky hand! Those tiny, tiny screws that can ping all over the place, and replacing the weenie terminals that could so easily be damaged if you press in the wrong place, I found the worst to cope with. However the guide was very helpful with its warnings, such as when you are getting the old battery out and the danger of damaging the volume button connector if you work too near the top end.

To conclude I think the guide is very good, and thank you.

jamieson - Réponse

Great guide! The battery health seems to be working as well surprisingly.

Casey Cox - Réponse

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