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Introduction

Utilisez ce tutoriel pour remplacer le ventilateur.

N'oubliez pas de suivre notre |744|tutoriel sur l'application de la pâte thermique|new_window=true] avant de réinstaller votre dissipateur de chaleur.

  1. Ôtez les dix vis suivantes, fixant le boîtier inférieur au boîtier supérieur :
    • Ôtez les dix vis suivantes, fixant le boîtier inférieur au boîtier supérieur :

    • Deux vis Pentalobe de 2,3 mm

    • Huit vis Pentalobe de 3,0 mm

    For all the screws you use the P5 pentalobe screwdriver?

    Carlos - Réponse

    Pentalobe is only for the screws on the bottom cover. The Torx screw driver is for the remainder.

    Fredrik -

    Is the Pentalobe screwdriver mentioned in the tools list? I did not have one so I used a filed down flat blade screwdriver. Not a fantastic idea, but it works.

    Alex Birkett - Réponse

    Yes, it's mentioned on the top of this page. P5 Pentalobe to be precise. I didn't have one either, so I bought one from iFixit and that works fantastic. An absolutely precise fit, which is important especially when you might open your MacBook a couple of times during the years you own it. Not using the correct tool might do more harm to the screws than you want! I once had this with a Lenovo Yoga 3 Pro, which has Torx screws (T4 I think) and I used cheap Chinese quality tools, with the result that both the tool and one of the screws are damaged.

    addvariety -

    the macbook in the picture is 2012. does it has the same structure as 2013?

    Edison - Réponse

    I never, ever, ever considered using anything but the correct tool on the Pentalobe screws. Too easy to strip and void your warranty (if still in effect), as well as make it almost impossible to get inside later for another upgrade or repair. The Wiha P5 Pentalobe screwdriver fits like a glove and costs only about $11 (a fraction of your drive's price)at Amazon.com. Get it!

    marketing - Réponse

    is P5 supposed to be for all 10 screws? it works on the 2x 2.3mm at the top, but not for the 8x others for me. what size screwdriver for the 3mm? thanks

    monsieurescargot - Réponse

    Yes, the p5 works for all 10 pentalobe screw heads for bottom cover. The the different size mm reference only refers to the difference in length of the screws, but again both heads are p5.

    Antoine Thornton - Réponse

    I followed this exactly and was able to replace my broken trackpad. I did not have to replace the ribbon OR the battery. However I would suggest getting the ribbon since it’s fairly cheap, as for the batteries I was able to do it with a card only. I didn’t use any heat or the liquid but it takes some time. You really have to work the card in there to release the glue. Also you must be very careful not to bend the batteries or damage them, if you do you must replace with new. This took me about 1.5hrs and my computer works like new. Apple cost for this job was around $450, I did it for $120. Big ups to ifixit for this awesome tutorial, tool set and parts!

    On a side note, only use quality tools, the cheap ones will break or strip the screws.

    Dustin Steward - Réponse

    Note that the eight 3mm screws have a shoulder under the head, while the two 2.3mm screws are “full thread”, i.e., there is no shoulder under their heads. It’s important to put the two screws with no shoulder at the hinge of the cover.

    All ten screws require a P5 Pentalobe screwdriver, preferably with a magnetized tip to help hold and position the screw.

    All of the screws have blue “Loctite” thread locker compound on their threads. This is to help prevent the screws from working loose and falling out. Don’t attempt to clean the Loctite from the screws — leave it in place, and it will continue to help prevent the re-inserted screws from working loose.

    When replacing the bottom cover, it is a good technique to insert and BEGIN tightening all ten screws BEFORE fully tightening any one screw. After all the screws have been started, then go around and finish tightening all of them. By doing this, you make it easier to feel that each screw has been started properly, and is not “cross-threaded”.

    doubleclutch - Réponse

    This is what I found on my MBP mid-2014 13” Retina. All 10 used the same screwdriver. I didn’t see the blue “loctite” but I also got my computer refurbished.

    Evan Shulman -

    A good technique for starting to thread the screws when replacing them is to position and align the screw, and with the driver, gently turn the screw in the REMOVAL direction until you feel and hear a slight click. This click happens when the leading thread of the screw drops off of the leading edge of the thread in the hole — this is the point at which the threads are properly positioned for engagement. You can now turn the driver and screw in the TIGHTENING direction. This technique will help prevent accidental “cross-threading” of the screw, which will damage the threads permanently.

    Note that this is a useful technique when installing ANY threaded fastener.

    doubleclutch - Réponse

    Just finished replacing my battery (MacBook Pro 13” early 2015), glad I did, the old ones were noticeably swollen. I was surprised to find the battery at 57% upon completion and charging the new battery. No problems with replacement however, kit arrived without the Pentalobe driver. I got a nice complete kit from Amazon for 20 euro in 2 days. iFixit offered a coupon on any future purchase but right now, I have no plans on needing anything. Nice gesture but would have preferred the driver in the kit in the first place.

    Suggest having a small can of compressed air on hand to clean out the interior, after 4 years, mine was quite dirty. Ear buds and alcohol were the best I could do. And a magnetized driver is mandatory I think.

    D M - Réponse

    REQUIRED PARTS (SCREWS) TO DO THIS JOB UNAVAILABLE HERE:

    If your keyboard is riveted to the chassis as mine is, Late 2013 MBP 13” retina, you need about 100 screws to reattach the new keyboard.

    ifixit does not have them. I did just now find them at Beetstech for $4.50 along with a back light $13 for the keyboard in case you want one. It looks like Beetstech is a big competitor of ifixit with an excellent reputation (like ifixit has) too. I just ordered these parts and will not happily be moving forward with my keyboard replacement.

    Timothy Hardman - Réponse

  2. Mettez vos doigts entre le boîtier inférieur et le boîtier supérieur.
    • Mettez vos doigts entre le boîtier inférieur et le boîtier supérieur.

    • Séparez avec précaution les deux boîtiers et retirez le boîtier inférieur.

    This takes a bit more effort than you might expect. Put your fingers where shown and lift about 3inches. With enough upwards pressure the plastic holders will “pop free” and the bottom will come off easily.

    hamiltont - Réponse

    Agreed. A decent amount of force is required here.

    Evan Shulman - Réponse

  3. Le boîtier inférieur est connecté au boîtier supérieur par deux attaches en plastique au milieu. Lors du remontage, appuyez doucement sur le milieu du boîtier inférieur pour que les deux attaches s'enclenchent à nouveau.
    • Le boîtier inférieur est connecté au boîtier supérieur par deux attaches en plastique au milieu.

    • Lors du remontage, appuyez doucement sur le milieu du boîtier inférieur pour que les deux attaches s'enclenchent à nouveau.

    There are two screws that are shorter-they go to the back near the vent.

    wrbandllm - Réponse

    This was already mentioned at the start, it says 2x 2.3mm screws and those are coloured red instead of orange for the other ones in iFixit's image.

    addvariety - Réponse

    What is the black vinyl-y sticker on the inside of the case (some sort of shield?). I was forced to slightly puncture it in order to replace the feet on my laptop. Thanks in advance.

    Tommy Huang - Réponse

    When I got the back off, I found this piece loose, any idea what it is? about 9mm long frosted plastic

    https://imgur.com/a/tYaxGdG

    Fred Anderson - Réponse

    This wording I found quite confusing. They just mean when putting the lid back on that you just removed in the previous step, push here.

    Mmm ttt - Réponse

    I took my pointer and thumb (which are luckily long enough) to feel where the studs are on the back panel, and then as I put the back panel back on, I pushed in the spot I had marked with my fingers to ensure I was applying pressure only on this part.

    Evan Shulman - Réponse

  4. Si nécessaire, retirez le cache en plastique couvrant la carte de contact de la batterie.
    • Si nécessaire, retirez le cache en plastique couvrant la carte de contact de la batterie.

    Do you know where I can purchase this plastic cover? Mine is missing and no one will work on my computer without it.

    jodieabc - Réponse

    There is no point on going near the battery or logic board. I cut out these steps with no issue. It is precautionary but unnecessary.

    Jaime Leonard - Réponse

    I agree. No point in removing the battery connection, as it’s one more thing that can break. Just be careful to shut down your machine before doing any work on it.

    Ron LaPedis -

    I replaced both my L and R speakers on my MBP mid-2014 13” withOUT doing this step.

    Evan Shulman - Réponse

    My new battery kit included a replacement for this part, so, no need to save the old one.

    Ralph Begleiter - Réponse

  5. Avec l'extrémité plate d'une spatule (spudger), tirez le connecteur de la batterie tout droit hors de sa prise sur la carte mère. Assurez-vous de faire levier uniquement sur le connecteur et non pas sur sa prise, sinon vous risquez d'endommager irréversiblement la carte mère.
    • Avec l'extrémité plate d'une spatule (spudger), tirez le connecteur de la batterie tout droit hors de sa prise sur la carte mère.

    • Assurez-vous de faire levier uniquement sur le connecteur et non pas sur sa prise, sinon vous risquez d'endommager irréversiblement la carte mère.

    I have a friends MacBook Pro that has some water damage that caused the MacBook not to be able to use battery power, but still work when plugged into A/C. Upon further inspection I can see visible corrosion on a few of the 9 cables going from the battery connector to that small circuit board. Is it possible to just replace that circuit board?

    jramsey21 - Réponse

    I have the some problem. I was thinking to replace the whole battery but I am not it will solve the problem. Any suggestions?

    salvatorebarbera -

    Sometimes it can be enough to just clean the contacts without having to replace the entire board. Dosent work for complicated IC's like plcc type, where corrosion is underneath the chip. Here you will have to reheat and reapply the IC.

    andrehedegaard -

    Hi,have you find the solution for your battery? I also have same problem, run with plugs but it battery not supporting… as soon the plug of it goes off

    Jewel Rahman -

    Have either of you replaced the battery and/or circuit board to fix the MacBooks with the water damage ? I have the same problem with the MacBook working fine when connected to power but dying immediately when the power cord is removed.

    Steve - Réponse

    Hi, Steve. I had the same problem: Macbook Pro 15 retina with coffee damage. And it worked fine when connected to power. I made it working after replacing the whole battery. It seems that circuit connected to the battery becomes disabled to prevent short circuit.

    Vadim Gribanov -

    When placing the battery connector back into the socket on the logic board, check that every part of connector is pressed down. You should hear a soft click when it's back in place.

    Ethan Tarquin - Réponse

    Thanks for the comment. My MBP isn’t powering on after I walked through these steps, and I assume it is because the battery connector isn’t fully connected. (I can’t check yet since I borrowed the pentalobe screwdriver)

    Caleb Steinborn -

    +1

    I thought I made sure it was connected but when running the computer it only detected the battery but couldn’t power it. I had to run with power adapter. Also it didn’t charge. I guess some pins were connected but not all. To verify that all were connected I removed the plastic cover, placed it carefully completely flat, and then reattached the plastic cover. After that it worked!

    Jonas Ehrs -

    If I only want to replace the trackpad cable, then which steps should I skip? This step seems unnecessary

    Parth Gudhka - Réponse

    Removing the battery connector took a bit of finagling. It wasn’t as easy as one would think. Be very careful when doing this as they warn to not damage it. Otherwise great instructions!!!!

    Peppon - Réponse

    I replaced both my L and R speakers on my MBP mid-2014 13” withOUT doing this step.

    Evan Shulman - Réponse

    I have verified I have this battery, and I have a mid-2014 macbook retina. And I swear i do not see this battery connector. I didn’t take the cover off, per other comments that said it was an unnecessary risk. What the heck? will I not see the battery cable without taking of that cover?

    martha - Réponse

    How can i post a photo of what I am seeing …I don’t see the battery connector! not like in photo above. maybe I have to remove that plastic cover although others recommended not doing that (see above).

    martha - Réponse

    ooops nevermind..I see it now! tks . But..there is SO much gunk/dust under there (old, hand me down, used by my teen daughter while eating in bed no doubt!) . Should I attempt to clean? Beyond just blowing on it? Is compressed air safe? Or should I just leave it be? Assuming I don’t break it while replacing this battery I’d like not to break it otherwise! tks

    martha - Réponse

  6. Pliez le connecteur de la batterie vers le haut afin d'éviter tout contact accidentel avec la prise pendant la réparation.
    • Pliez le connecteur de la batterie vers le haut afin d'éviter tout contact accidentel avec la prise pendant la réparation.

    If you miss or let this step for later like I did, the power left in the battery even though the computer is completely shut down, will screw up the I/O board cable like I did. I noticed this after I put all the pieces back, turn the computer on and surprise, no wifi hardware is detected. -.-

    sebasgaes - Réponse

    Not sure I understand: did leaving the battery plugged in permanently broke the I/O board (or anything else)?

    Adrien Izzet -

    I put a small piece of blue painters tape on the battery connector contacts to prevent it from accidentally making a connection and shorting. This helped keep things a bit more protected.

    LaymanLab - Réponse

    That’s a great idea!

    David Lilliebridge - Réponse

    I used a small piece of paper to prevent the connector from connecting, no need to wrestle with even low-stick adhesive.

    dbrick - Réponse

    I replaced both my L and R speakers on my MBP mid-2014 13” withOUT doing this step.

    Evan Shulman - Réponse

    I agree that inserting a small paper above between the socket and the connector was useful. I used post-it-note, but kept the adhesive away from the socket.

    Ralph Begleiter - Réponse

  7. Retirez délicatement la protection en caoutchouc du ventilateur, qui se trouve sur le bord du dissipateur thermique. La protection du ventilateur adhère autour du dissipateur de chaleur et s'insère dans les fentes du conduit de ventilation. Lors du remontage, assurez-vous d'insérer les languettes dans les encoches du conduit de ventilation. La protection du ventilateur adhère autour du dissipateur de chaleur et s'insère dans les fentes du conduit de ventilation. Lors du remontage, assurez-vous d'insérer les languettes dans les encoches du conduit de ventilation.
    • Retirez délicatement la protection en caoutchouc du ventilateur, qui se trouve sur le bord du dissipateur thermique.

    • La protection du ventilateur adhère autour du dissipateur de chaleur et s'insère dans les fentes du conduit de ventilation. Lors du remontage, assurez-vous d'insérer les languettes dans les encoches du conduit de ventilation.

    have lost the rubber fann bumper, what part do you have to buy to get this rubber? thank you

    Walid Shraim - Réponse

    I changed out the noisy fan around 4-5 months ago. And lately it was back and I was super irritated about the poor quality of the replacement fan. Opening up the case and blowing on the ventilator some compressed air there was no noise whatsoever. I have this feeling that my “noisi fan” was actually the loose end of this rubber cover/bumper which could vibrate in the air flow channel. So verify that you insert rubber cover clips back to its slots on under the edge of the sink.

    Albert Stein - Réponse

    Use a flashlight and magnifying glass to see how the bottom of the bumper that wraps around the heatsink sits into the fan duct before you remove it. If it is not seated properly it can make noise. You’re welcome.

    Ron LaPedis - Réponse

  8. Utilisez l'extrémité plate d'un spudger pour décoller les quatre autocollants en mousse des vis du dissipateur thermique. Utilisez l'extrémité plate d'un spudger pour décoller les quatre autocollants en mousse des vis du dissipateur thermique.
    • Utilisez l'extrémité plate d'un spudger pour décoller les quatre autocollants en mousse des vis du dissipateur thermique.

    Ok, might be a dumb question, but where can I get the foam stickers, and are they absolutely necessary after reassembling the heat sink?

    akdarstudios - Réponse

    I re-used the ones that I pulled off, and my guess is that they aren’t really necessary since they seem to just fit between the Torx screws and the bottom cover. I really doubt they are part of the heat removal system but are there to prevent vibration.

    Ron LaPedis - Réponse

  9. Retirez les vis suivantes fixant le dissipateur thermique à la carte mère :
    • Retirez les vis suivantes fixant le dissipateur thermique à la carte mère :

    • Une vis T5 de 2,7 mm (argentée)

    • Quatre vis T5 de _ mm (noires)

    Please be very very careful when reassembling. The four black screws seem to be poor quality and the top snapped off two of them when trying to tighten them. Does anyone know the size of these or compatibility from other models as finding a replacement for them is proving to be almost impossible without shipping them in for a ridiculous price…

    Sophia Grace - Réponse

    The single screw on the left hand side on the image above, what type of screw is it? The one on my Macbook is a phillips head one. And for some reason, I couldn’t put it back. Any advise?

    Mahmood Chowdhury - Réponse

    These should all be T5 Torx screws. There could be variations in the construction of the laptop compared to this guide, but I’d check out our ID Your MacBook tool to be sure you’re following the correct guide! If you are following the correct guide, be sure all the elements under the screw are properly seated, if they’re not well aligned the screw may not get a good anchor. Best of luck!

    Sam Goldheart -

    I can confirm that on my 2015 13” Macbook Pro, the single screw on the left hand side is a #000 phillips screw.

    Stephen Martin - Réponse

    Mine is also a philips head

    Justin Parry - Réponse

    They are Torx T5 on my MacBook Pro (Retina, 13-inch, Early 2015)

    Ron LaPedis - Réponse

  10. Retirez le dissipateur thermique de l'ordinateur portable. Lors du remontage de votre ordinateur, suivez notre tutoriel d'application de la pâte thermique pour remettre une couche de pâte thermique.
  11. Utilisez la pointe d'un spudger pour pousser de chaque côté du connecteur de la nappe de la caméra iSight pour le faire sortir de sa prise sur la carte mère. Utilisez la pointe d'un spudger pour pousser de chaque côté du connecteur de la nappe de la caméra iSight pour le faire sortir de sa prise sur la carte mère.
    • Utilisez la pointe d'un spudger pour pousser de chaque côté du connecteur de la nappe de la caméra iSight pour le faire sortir de sa prise sur la carte mère.

    I found this to be the most difficult step. There is a need to get positioned so that you have the leverage to push hard enough at exactly the point shown in the photo without risking slipping and perhaps damaging the CPU nearby

    Tony M - Réponse

    Very helpful tip from Tony.

    Thomas Sturgill - Réponse

    I used two tools simultaneously. A spudger and a pic like spudger to walk it out.

    lucas - Réponse

  12. Décollez la nappe de la caméra iSight du boîtier du ventilateur pour la replier de côté. Décollez la nappe de la caméra iSight du boîtier du ventilateur pour la replier de côté.
    • Décollez la nappe de la caméra iSight du boîtier du ventilateur pour la replier de côté.

  13. Utilisez la pointe d'un spudger pour retourner la languette sur le connecteur ZIF du ventilateur. Tirez délicatement le nappe du ventilateur tout droit hors de sa prise. Tirez délicatement le nappe du ventilateur tout droit hors de sa prise.
    • Utilisez la pointe d'un spudger pour retourner la languette sur le connecteur ZIF du ventilateur.

    • Tirez délicatement le nappe du ventilateur tout droit hors de sa prise.

    my cable was glued, had to be pryed up first.

    maccentric - Réponse

    I found it a bit difficult to know exactly when the new one is back in position.

    steffen - Réponse

  14. Retirez les vis suivantes fixant le ventilateur au boîtier supérieur :
    • Retirez les vis suivantes fixant le ventilateur au boîtier supérieur :

    • Une vis Torx T5 de 5,0 mm

    • Deux vis Torx T5 de 3,6 mm

  15. Soulevez l'extrémité du ventilateur la plus proche de la charnière de l'écran et retirez le ventilateur du boîtier supérieur. Soulevez l'extrémité du ventilateur la plus proche de la charnière de l'écran et retirez le ventilateur du boîtier supérieur. Soulevez l'extrémité du ventilateur la plus proche de la charnière de l'écran et retirez le ventilateur du boîtier supérieur.
    • Soulevez l'extrémité du ventilateur la plus proche de la charnière de l'écran et retirez le ventilateur du boîtier supérieur.

    Um, this guide should include steps for applying thermal paste, including instructions to clean the mating surfaces, and pictures showing how much thermal paste to use.

    TheIronGiant - Réponse

    Hi @theirongiant, there are generic thermal paste application instructions linked in the introduction “Don't forget to follow our thermal paste application guide before you reinstall your heat sink.”

    Sam Goldheart -

    Make sure to put the end furthest away from the hinge under the ribbon cable first.

    Then place the hinge side. The screw furthest away from the hinge is partially obscured by the ribbon cable.

    If not placed correctly, ribbon cable damage may result.

    toodarkpark - Réponse

Conclusion

Pour remonter votre appareil, veuillez suivre les instructions dans l'order inverse.

43 autre(s) ont terminé cette réparation.

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Andrew Optimus Goldheart

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10 commentaires

Very good instructions, just completed the fan replacement, no issues -

David Tyra - Réponse

Fantastic instructions, brilliant depictions for assistance. Thank you!

Ethan Tarquin - Réponse

I completed this guide and it was brilliant, so thank you Andrew Optimus Goldberg and your contributors! I have a question about the Macbook's heat post-installation of a new fan.

I replaced the fan last night, and put everything back together. Today, the new fan is responding well under activities that would previously make the fan extremely loud and cause intense heat to build up on the bottom right of the Macbook: so far so good.

However, it seems heat is now being distributed to the keys and directly below the screen, and I can even feel it underneath the trackpad, and this is from simply turning the Macbook on with no applications straining the CPU.

Is this something to worry about? Have I possibly made a mistake in my installation, or is this normal for an ordinary working fan?

Thanks for any help that may be given. Appreciated

Ethan Tarquin - Réponse

Is the fan you replaced the original one with the exact same model? While im no expert on this stuff my guess would be that it distributes air differently. I hope it works out for you though.

Nikolay -

Just completed the fan replacement. Great clear instructions. No issues. Thank you so much.

Donald Kelly - Réponse

pube toast 2 too short

Albert Einstein - Réponse

Completed the fan replacement the instructions were great, no troubles at all. The fan was an exact fit and fast shipping !

Jerome Kurtzman - Réponse

This was an excellent tutorial. After buying a Macbook repair kit ~$10 with the screwdrivers and spudger, I was able to I was able to replace my fan in about 30 minutes without any problems. Thanks very much for this.

Dylan Parry - Réponse

My son told me about a system breakdown while streaming video at his Macbook. He also told me about strange fan noise at that time.

I checked the MBP 13” 2015 Retina, Apple diagnostic showed nothing and system seems to run normal when I was at the machine afterwards.

I installed “Macs fan control” and this showed me that the fan ran with zero rpm under light load. The temperature was about 70 degree (all in Celsius) and stayed there while browsing news-sites.

CAN THIS BE?

I was able to set any rotation speed manually. The 5th-generation Intel core U-Line CPU has a 105 degree T-junction (->IntelARK).

Now I am frightend about using the machine because I don’t want it to get overheated.

What do you think? Is this really the normal behavior for the MbP 13” Retina 2015 fan? Should it not run with a little rotation speed all the time?

Thanx for any experiences shared!

Marc Prinz - Réponse

Are the left and right fans any different from each other ?

O Z - Réponse

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