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Remplacement du boîtier supérieur du MacBook Pro 13" Unibody mi-2012

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  1. Remplacement du boîtier supérieur du MacBook Pro 13" Unibody mi-2012, Boîtier inférieur: étape 1, image 1 de 1
    • Retirez les dix vis suivantes :

    • Trois vis Phillips #00 14,4 mm

    • Trois vis Phillips #00 3,5 mm

    • Quatre vis à épaulement Phillips #00 3,5 mm

    • Quand vous replacerez les petites vis, alignez-les perpendiculairement à la légère courbe de la coque (elles ne se vissent pas à la verticale).

    How much weight can I save by removing the optical drive?

    gunes314 - Réponse

    You can save a lot of weight if lets say your installing a solid state drive or putting in a second hard drive but if you know that you use the CD/DVD disc drive a lot then you might just want to leave the drive alone.

    Marshall WahlstromHelgren -

    Tip: Use one of those weekday pill holders to have a cheep way to store screws you remove and each day of the week can be for different sizes or parts. It has been handy to have (much less expensive than the magnetic mat.

    Robert Wacker - Réponse

    Hello, where can I buy the screws I need in case I lose one of them?

    taylornya - Réponse

    I have one stripped screw... How opening without drill it?! Any suggestions please?

    rodrigosady - Réponse

    I also stripped a couple screws. I wasn’t able to open it up without drilling. After drilling the heads and removing the cover it was easy to hacksaw the tip and unscrew with a standard driver.

    Michael Wilkens -

    My top tip - make sure you buy good quality Phillips screwdrivers and a magnetic holder. Cheap screwdrivers won’t get the screws undone safely. Without a magnetic holder you have no chance of getting the tiny crews in and out safely.

    jeremyyoung - Réponse

    A good Phillips 00 is your friend here. Also, when reinserting the screws, gently start anticlockwise and you wil feel a click at the start of the thread. This tells you you’re in the right place and less likely to cross-thread through force in the wrong place.

    Iain Boyd - Réponse

    I feel like these are 000 screws. Amazon sales describe them as such and my 000 screwdriver fits better

    cam2000deluxe -

    Before ordering a new Trackpad remove the existing battery and try clicking the Trackpad. If it clicks OK with the battery out the source of problem is likely a swollen battery, which should to be replaced even if it still works to some degree. From the side of the battery you will likely see the soft part of the battery bulging beyond the hard case.

    Patrick Langvardt - Réponse

    That’s absolutely correct as I can testify. With the battery removed I also adjusted the T6 set screw that adjusts the sensitivity of the trackpad click, evidently someone had cranked mine down tighter than the factory setting.

    Gary Register -

    Le quatrième paragraphe dans les instructions en français n’est pas correct : ce ne sont pas les 2 petites vis, mais les 7 petites vis qui sont inclinées. Et les 3 grandes sont bien verticales.

    Degeorges - Réponse

    Bonjour ! Merci de votre observation. J’ai corrigé la traduction. iFixit étant un wiki, n’hésitez pas à modifiez si vous remarquez une erreur :) Encore merci de votre attention et à bientôt !

    Claire Miesch -

    Tip: if you have a magnetic screw mat or similar, lay the macbook over the mat to make sure it catches any screws that may decide to fall of and hide under your table

    Moritz - Réponse

    Funny, it's not her hands that are doing the close ups. :)

    Cinemated Man - Réponse

    What's the difference between the shouldered and non shouldered screws? They look exactly the same to me.

    MLNLRD - Réponse

  2. Remplacement du boîtier supérieur du MacBook Pro 13" Unibody mi-2012: étape 2, image 1 de 2 Remplacement du boîtier supérieur du MacBook Pro 13" Unibody mi-2012: étape 2, image 2 de 2
    • Faites levier avec vos doigts au niveau de la fente pour sortir le boîtier inférieur de la coque du MacBook.

    • Retirez le boîtier inférieur.

  3. Remplacement du boîtier supérieur du MacBook Pro 13" Unibody mi-2012, Connexion de la batterie: étape 3, image 1 de 2 Remplacement du boîtier supérieur du MacBook Pro 13" Unibody mi-2012, Connexion de la batterie: étape 3, image 2 de 2
    • À l'aide de l'extrémité d'une spatule (spudger), faites levier sur le connecteur de la batterie pour le débrancher de la prise sur la carte mère.

    • Il convient d'appliquer l'effet de levier sur les deux côtés courts du connecteur. Faites attention aux coins des connecteurs, car ils se cassent facilement.

    Is this step of removing the battery connector required?

    manodh - Réponse

    yes - as with disassembly of any electronic component you have to remove any power source. You don't want to accidentally turn the Mac on

    khull -

    Prying the battery connector off does not take much force. I did exactly what the guide suggested (walked it off back and forth) with the spudger without any problems. Just be very gentle, much like with anything inside laptops, they are very fragile and need to be worked with carefully. A+ instructions, battery replacement was a success.

    aekinaka - Réponse

    Be patient on disconnecting this one. It worked for me step by step, little by little.

    Phil Wagner - Réponse

    I used the nails of thumb and pointer finger simultaneously - worked pretty fine

    Reinhard Kaune - Réponse

    I whittled down ends of two wooden strips to use, along with my fingernails to start with. I used halves of a wooden clothespin, but popsicle sticks should work too.

    Mike Baker - Réponse

  4. Remplacement du boîtier supérieur du MacBook Pro 13" Unibody mi-2012: étape 4, image 1 de 1
    • Repliez légèrement le câble de la batterie vers l'arrière pour éviter qu'il ne se reconnecte accidentellement à la prise sur la carte mère pendant que vous travaillez.

    I put some tape between the connector and socket while working on the drive.

    Stephen Smith - Réponse

    That's a good tip

    Anrothan -

    Great tip, I did that too

    Ahmed Mahran -

    One other note: The screw heads fit flush with the curvature of the case -- which means that they aren't exactly horizontal. In other words, they aren't perpendicular to the table that the computer is resting on. Don't try to force them straight in vertically, because you'll risk cross-threading them. (nearly ruined one screw hole myself!)

    lelandjordon - Réponse

    On my MacBook Pro, the connector seems to be an integral part of the battery.

    Jerry South - Réponse

    I suspect it’s just like the special screwdriver required for seatbelts on cars – to discourage regular consumers from attempting repairs. Of course, this only encourages consumers to use the wrong tool to attempt to repairs

    colleenthompson - Réponse

    Dissambling my MacBookPro Premium Mid 2012 (i5-3210M 2.5Ghz) was easily, Careful with the screws, use screwdriver fitting exactly with the screws, you damage them very fast. Work very exactly, relaxed with time, consentration, good Tools and with feelings in your hands. Disconnect the Akku was easy if you take care, remove it to be safe, Two screws more, more space to work & haven`t to think about damaging someting. Apple use diffrent screws, you should have many difffrent scewdrivers. It is also good to clean everything inside, With time everything gets very dusty & dirty, don`t forget the sides and little fittings at the case. Use a pinsel, alcohol, soft peace stuff, it will look like new. If you have knowledge & experience, you can paint it in any colour or airbrushing for individualizing. You can also just polish it with a soft Politure (Sonax car Polish No1, NOT with wax or take an other light Politure you familiar & can do the job, A Laptop should serviced once a year, keeping it good working over years

    Stefan Lindner - Réponse

    First thing i do is open & cleanig everything inside,specially the cooling & fan, renew the thermal paste with an high quality product. Install the Nain System, clean up Bloatware and other unnecessary things, install standard software for daily use, additional change system components against better one (Edge to Firefox, Windows Media Player to VLC , an Office Suite and configuring everything for Data Protection, Privacy- & Indentety Protection, install Drivers from the component Manufactur (incedible effect, disable limitations, more functions, work better & faster, increasing performance, additional change the WiFi & Bluetooth Card to a better one a UMTS WWAN to an LTE Card, increase RAM with two Dual-Channel working SODIMMs, Use M2 or 2,5" SSD if no M2 Slot aviable) as System- and Software iDrive, a FAT32 formatted 32GB Partition to be safe of metaviruses comes with harmless downloads, and a big 2,5 HDD to store the user data. What does you guys think about this? Old Computer become a new life,

    Stefan Lindner - Réponse

    I livein Austria, near Vienna, if someone needs help or anything else, i would be glad to help. I always searching old or broken devices to bring them to new live. I also searching for spare parts, specilly a Bottom & Side Case and a 256GB or higher NGFF Storage Card for a Sony Vaio Tab 11 SVT1144HE (2014), some 14,1" Displays for a HP Probook 440G5 (2016), Elitebook MT 43 Mobile Thin Client, (2011), Dell Vostro 3460 (2012) Lenovo Thinkpad T440s (2014), and a Logic Board for an Lenovo Ideapad 330-15ARR (2017, damaged by Water i think) and a Logic Bord for an Alienware 17R4 with i7-6870HX & Nvidia 1080 (2018, CPU dead, maybe there is a repair Guide or workaround to bring it back to Life). I need always 8GB or 16GB DDR3 and DDR4 RAM Storage (perfectly two ident one for Dual-Channel use for Laptops, M2 SATA 6GB/s and NVMe PCIe SSDs 500GB or more and 2,5"SSD or HDD with 1TB or more and 3,5" HDD with 4GB or above. If you have some of this or other useful parts and doesn`t need them, please make me an offer, maybe

    2

    Stefan Lindner - Réponse

    an change something you need. This is not a Business what i do, it`s more a Hobby with challenging new Excercices.. Thats the best Point. Plase forgive me as a Newbie this very long Post in the wrong Section, but if you are start writing you cannot stop.... But now i have to come to an end and would be happy if someone wants to get in contact. My E-Mail is: udontknowme@gmx.at (the adress name is just a notice against Big Data and for Privacy Protection!

    Stefan Lindner - Réponse

  5. Remplacement du boîtier supérieur du MacBook Pro 13" Unibody mi-2012, Ventilateur: étape 5, image 1 de 3 Remplacement du boîtier supérieur du MacBook Pro 13" Unibody mi-2012, Ventilateur: étape 5, image 2 de 3 Remplacement du boîtier supérieur du MacBook Pro 13" Unibody mi-2012, Ventilateur: étape 5, image 3 de 3
    • Avec l'extrémité plate d'une spatule (spudger), faites délicatement levier sur le connecteur du ventilateur pour le débrancher de sa prise sur la carte mère.

    • Il est utile de faire pivoter la spatule en dessous des câbles du ventilateur pour débrancher le connecteur.

    • La prise et le connecteur du ventilateur sont montrés sur la deuxième et troisième photo. Veillez à ne pas détacher la prise en plastique du ventilateur lors du retrait du connecteur du ventilateur de sa prise. La configuration de la carte mère de votre appareil peut différer de celle de la deuxième photo mais la prise du ventilateur est la même.

    I successfully soldered the fan connector back on for a friend. I used a small soldering iron (maybe 6-10 watts) and ground the tip down to a very fine point. Also used a magnifying light and very fine rosin core solder. I took my time and lined everything up and was careful not to heat any other junction unnecessarily.

    Scott Stanley - Réponse

    Yup. Be careful on this one. I was trying to gently pry up and popped it off the socket. Computer working fine after replacing magsafe board, but no fan for cooling…

    Thomas Carr - Réponse

    This one is really delicate, as pointed out.  Be careful if using the pointed end of a spudger NOT to dig down and under ….there’s a layer of plastic-y insulation that can be torn.  I accidentally gored it with the pointy end of a spudger and it was slightly ripped.  Fortunately, I was able to press it down and there was no problem when the cable was reinserted.

    Carolyn Ryan - Réponse

    For less than $16 I ordered a new fan from amazon. Fans eventually start making noise. If they fail, your system could expire from heat. Consider simply replacing your fan since this model is now about five years old. Here’s link:

    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FWP...

    airshack - Réponse

    I used a guitar pick and gently wiggled underneath to lift it up and out of the socket. no damage! woo hoo! on to step 7!

    jcundy2 - Réponse

    I simply skipped this step and left fan wire connected to logic board. Just unscrew screws from Step 6, put fan on the logic board and remove whole stuff togheter.

    paczor - Réponse

    Thanks, I did that too,,

    a lot easier

    Ahmed Mahran -

    sorry i dont understand what you did? could you please explain more detailed?

    Olivier -

    I would like to do the same thing too. I took the fan out of its socket but with the wire still attached to the logic board. How do you remove the wire from the fan and reattach the new fan to it?

    Can you please explain with a little bit more detail?

    Ifix2 -

    Yes, tricky. Insert the spudger just like in the photo. You won’t be able to dig it out out from any other side. Also, notice which side of the connector faces down into the socket: it is the side without the four shiny gold areas (again, just like in the photo).

    rmccord23 - Réponse

    I used a really thin, plastic spudger gently inserting from each side on mid-2012 and then very gently twisting the spudger. It worked fine without tearing or damaging anything. When reinstalling the connector, do not forget to twist it 180 degrees so that the open side of the connector is facing down to insert properly for seating.

    Gary Renick - Réponse

  6. Remplacement du boîtier supérieur du MacBook Pro 13" Unibody mi-2012: étape 6, image 1 de 1
    • Dévissez les trois vis suivantes, fixant le ventilateur à la carte mère :

    • Une vis Torx T6 de 7,2 mm

    • Deux vis Torx T6 de 5,3 mm

    These are T5 screws

    dbell316 - Réponse

    I think so too, (maybe on a certain batch?) tried a T6 and its too big

    billytalentlovexo -

    I wasn’t able to open mine up. The heads looked like little triangles instead of hex torqx things. Is there a chart with the head shape of all the bits you can buy? I want to just get the one.

    Christopher Roode - Réponse

    They might be tri point

    Daniele Carminati -

    they were T6 for me

    Macrepair SF - Réponse

    T5 for me, my MBP was manufactured in 2015.

    colleenthompson - Réponse

    When seating the fan, be aware that the cutout on the fan for the wire harness may not match up with the cutout on the board itself. Line the wires up to the board and then seat the fan in an incremental manner - gently pushing at each connecting hole. Then put the screws in without tightening at first. Once all of the screws are seated, then sequentially snug them up. Finally, push down gently on the fan and snug up each screw without over tightening. I found that the fan seats a tad further and I wanted to avoid future rattles. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN THOUGH.

    Gary Renick - Réponse

  7. Remplacement du boîtier supérieur du MacBook Pro 13" Unibody mi-2012: étape 7, image 1 de 1
    • Ôtez le ventilateur de son emplacement dans la carte mère en évitant que son câble ne reste accroché.

    Note that, as per the photo, the fan goes in label side DOWN. Took me a few minutes to figure that out!

    colleenthompson - Réponse

    Before reinstalling the new fan and for novices like me, do not forget to have a can of compressed on hand to clear out years of dust, fine fibers, and maybe even a cat hair from the fins blowing outward. Do not shake the bottle and hold it upright, and use small squirts of air.

    Gary Renick - Réponse

  8. Remplacement du boîtier supérieur du MacBook Pro 13" Unibody mi-2012, Carte mère: étape 8, image 1 de 2 Remplacement du boîtier supérieur du MacBook Pro 13" Unibody mi-2012, Carte mère: étape 8, image 2 de 2
    • Avec la pointe d'une spatule, retirez la nappe haut-parleur droit/subwoofer placée sous le dispositif de retenue moulé dans le boîtier supérieur.

    • Tirez la nappe haut-parleur droite/subwoofer vers le haut pour débrancher le connecteur de sa prise sur la carte mère.

    Reminder: When replacing the cable the connector should be placed in from above. This fooled me and I damaged the seat a bit, but not enough to prevent proper connection.

    Lee Hughart - Réponse

    Excellent guide, I feel this bit could be clearer tho. As it is a socket like a fan connector.

    Mine had a foam pad on the top like the other lift-up connections and I’ve accidentally taken the socket off.

    So just to be aware if your mac has the foam pad on top of this connection.

    acupton86 - Réponse

    I’ve broken the connector of the speaker (on the logic board) by installing it in the wrong way.

    Now, I ordered the connector from aliexpress, and have to do some micro soldering and hopefully it’ll work.

    Be careful guys

    iAziz - Réponse

    This one took me a moment to figure out. I also have the foam pad and couldn't see where the socket begins. Use the flat end of the spudger and go underneath the red/black cable part close to the socket, then slowly lift it up until it loosens a little, then do the same on the other side.

    Chris - Réponse

    This is a top-down connector. To remove, use a spudger from underneath. To insert, just push on from top gently.

    Person37 - Réponse

  9. Remplacement du boîtier supérieur du MacBook Pro 13" Unibody mi-2012: étape 9, image 1 de 1
    • Déconnectez la nappe de la caméra de la carte mère.

    • Tirez sur la nappe parallèlement à la surface de la carte mère. Si vous la tirez vers le haut, vous risquez d'endommager la carte mère ou la nappe elle-même.

    The camera cable head has bump at both sides. Just use two spudgers to pry it out.

    townbull - Réponse

    thank you great suggestion

    Soham Thacker -

    Here's where the mid-2009 13" MacBook Pro 5,5 makes its first major departure from this guide. No such connection exists. At least nowhere I could find on the motherboard.

    Larry Horton - Réponse

    IIRC the official service manual suggests putting the blunt or wide edge of a black-stick/spudger underneath the cable and then pressing down on said cable to provide better gripping force while pulling the cable out/away from the connector. It’s my tried-and-true method of choice.

    James - Réponse

    Anyone has a data of this cable becausei brkoe it and i have an other same connector ??

    Mail : mr.leminecrafteur@gmail.com

    VARE - Réponse

    Just broke this cable by pulling to hard. Definitely use a spudger to pry out the connector instead of pulling the cable.

    maxpoetter - Réponse

    Same, any suggestion about its replacement?

    giovanni.billet - Réponse

    Really grip those little bumps on the head with a pair of pliers and gently wiggle!

    moonsugar33 - Réponse

    In case you need replacement parts for the broken cable : http://www.powerbookmedic.com/MacBook-Pr...

    To find out how to replace the cable, you can have a look at this tutorial : https://fr.ifixit.com/Tutoriel/Remplacem...

    Guillaume Lamaison - Réponse

    Die Metallverbindung besteht aus zwei Teilen. Der kabelferne Teil drückt den Stecker nach unten. Der kabelferne Teil ist ein festgelöteter Schuh. Mit Hilfe einer dünnen Präpariernadel konnte ich den kabelzugewandten, beweglichen Metall-Teil der Verbindung zum einen horizontal herausschieben, zum anderen habe ich gleichzeitig gezogen. Nicht zu viel Kraft beim Ziehen aufwenden.

    Mir hat geholfen, ein Makrofoto vom Stecker zu machen, um ihn zu verstehen.

    hpw - Réponse

    Do not pull the camera cable! You will pull the wires out of the connector. The camera cable has two metal sides. Push on the metal part horizontally out, then alternate, until the cable comes out from the socket.

    Person37 - Réponse

  10. Remplacement du boîtier supérieur du MacBook Pro 13" Unibody mi-2012: étape 10, image 1 de 2 Remplacement du boîtier supérieur du MacBook Pro 13" Unibody mi-2012: étape 10, image 2 de 2
    • Déconnectez les quatre nappes suivantes :

    • Nappe AirPort/Bluetooth

    • Nappe du lecteur optique

    • Nappe du disque dur

    • Nappe du pavé tactile

    • Faites levier sur les connecteurs à l'aide de l'extrémité plate d'une spatule pour les déconnecter de leur prise sur la carte mère .

    On the mid-2009 13" MacBook Pro 5,5 the Airport/Bluetooth cable is different from the other three cables in this step. It's fabric wrapped, and its connection works in a fashion more like the display data cable connection, although it does not have a lock that releases by pulling a tab back over the cable. So, to those of you who are repairing this model, be careful. Prying upward is not the way to remove this cable. I played with it until I could detect which parts were moving which way and why. Although I can't say with precision how the connection works, I removed it by gently coaxing slightly up at an angle and back along the plane of the optical drive. The idea is to pull the cable back out of its socket while lifting slightly.

    Too bad we can't post photos in the comments.

    Larry Horton - Réponse

    Same with the Mid 2010 model - moving the cable parallel to the board, towards the optical device works fine.

    Hans - Réponse

    It is advised to tape all those connectors out of the way of the mainboard. Use paper tape or paper labels as you want to avoid the electrical discharge associated with peeling off of plastic tape.

    dbovey - Réponse

  11. Remplacement du boîtier supérieur du MacBook Pro 13" Unibody mi-2012: étape 11, image 1 de 3 Remplacement du boîtier supérieur du MacBook Pro 13" Unibody mi-2012: étape 11, image 2 de 3 Remplacement du boîtier supérieur du MacBook Pro 13" Unibody mi-2012: étape 11, image 3 de 3
    • Avec votre ongle, ouvrez le clapet de retenue de la prise ZIF de la nappe du clavier.

    • Assurez-vous de faire levier sur le clapet de retenue rabattu et non pas sur la prise elle-même.

    • Avec la pointe d'une spatule, retirez la nappe du clavier de sa prise.

    • La nappe peut être difficile à insérer. Si vous avez des difficultés, fixez un morceau de bande adhésive sur la nappe pour vous aider à la guider dans sa prise.

    Hello i've a late 2011 and have manged to break the keyboard ribbon cable ZIF socket. Is this a part that can be replaced? Ribbon is still good just the plastic has broken on the edge. Thanks

    Derek Cowan - Réponse

    No, You'll need to replace the logic board. I'd probably just use a wired or bluetooth keyboard and put the money towards a new machine.

    maccentric -

    I ran into trouble reattaching the keyboard ribbon cable into the ZIF socket. I couldn't grasp it in a way that let me push it all the all back. A local repair guy told me his trick: use a piece of tape. Attach a piece of tape to the ribbon cable and make a tab so you can pull the cable into the socket. Use of a piece of tape that you can easily remove. Works like a charm.

    David - Réponse

    Buy that man a pint! I've been working on computers professionally for a decade and I've never thought of that trick. Brilliant!

    Gryyphyn -

    Amazing this saved me!

    Felipe Cordero -

    You've saved me countless hours of crying trying to simply push it in

    Tunipguy -

    Thanks! This saved me hours!

    Marc Steffen -

    Thank you so much. Very clever idea that works like a charm!

    Todd Walls -

    Thank you so much! After 15 minutes of frustration, it inserted in less than 5 seconds.

    Todd Walls -

    I didin't read this before, but it was the idea i had in the moment... after 30 minutes of struggle. Thanks!

    Franco Iván Bello Rojas -

    The tape tip is amazing! Worked first time, perfectly!

    aliado -

    I read all these comments and immediately thought if I can’t feed this through there how am I going to feed the tape through? This part isn’t sticky.

    Oh. The tape is to pull it. Jeje. How silly.

    When the time comes you will figure out how important the tape trick is. I promise.

    Thank you soooo much!!!!

    Billie -

    After I put it all back together, the keyboard didn’t work; I traced it to this cable not being plugged in all the way. I used the tape trick to coax it all the way in to seat well and it works like a charm.

    Ruedi Schubarth - Réponse

    Thanks for the tip about keyboard ribbon, saved me a major headache

    domhnallk - Réponse

    It’s worth pointing out that the lever to lift this is at the back of the connector and that you’re pulling it towards yourself - this then releases the plastic on top of the cable that’s holding it in place.

    Nick Watts - Réponse

    The tape tirck saved my bacon!! Thank YOU!

    Jonathan Davis - Réponse

    Thanks so much. This trick saved the day!!!!

    Rafael Giuliano - Réponse

    It is advised to tape this connectors out of the way of the mainboard. Use paper tape or paper labels as you want to avoid the electrical discharge associated with peeling off of plastic tape.

    dbovey - Réponse

    Der Sicherungsbügel kann leicht mit dem Fingernagel vom Mainboard um 90 Grad zu mir her geklappt werden. ACHTUNG: Genau lesen, filigrane Teile gehen leicht kaputt.

    hpw - Réponse

    The tape trick worked for the smaller keyboard backlight ribbon but not this bigger ribbon…. I might take it to a repair shop because I’m out of ideas. Anyone know any other solution? I think someone mentioned using a pencil eraser as a grip on another site… might try that.

    hi there - Réponse

    One alternative method to the tape trick that worked for me goes as follows:

    0. To prevent possible damage, please do everything listed very gently.
    1. First, slide one of the corners of the cable into the socket. If the corner is properly fitted, the cable shouldn't go up when you stop holding it down with your hand.
    2. Next, slide the corner to its corresponding side (eg: if you slid the right corner, then push it to right). This should leave you with one side of the cable more tucked in than the other; but the whole cable is now in the socket.
    3. Gently, try to push the cable the whole way in. At this point it's trial and error, but it's faster than trying to slide the whole cable at once in my experience.

    If the cable is correctly inserted, the white lines on it should all be "connected" or under the black top part of the socket.

    Exynix - Réponse

  12. Remplacement du boîtier supérieur du MacBook Pro 13" Unibody mi-2012: étape 12, image 1 de 1
    • Si présent, décollez le petit morceau de bande adhésive noire recouvrant la prise de la nappe du rétro-élairage du clavier.

    The bottom of the small strip has excellent adhesive which will re-stick upon reassembly without any problems. I handled the sticky side and even stuck it to a plastic tray without any issues. Which is to say the sticky-ness does not seem to wear off.

    airshack - Réponse

    This is the most difficult ribbon cable to reinsert. As noted in the comments for the keyboard ribbon cable above I’d recommend also using a a small piece of tape to help reinsert.

    Bill Kirby - Réponse

    I used Blu-Tac on the end of my spudger to provide a gentle grip to get it to slide in.

    moonsugar33 - Réponse

    It is advised to tape this connectors out of the way of the mainboard. Use paper tape or paper labels as you want to avoid the electrical discharge associated with peeling off of plastic tape.

    dbovey - Réponse

  13. Remplacement du boîtier supérieur du MacBook Pro 13" Unibody mi-2012: étape 13, image 1 de 3 Remplacement du boîtier supérieur du MacBook Pro 13" Unibody mi-2012: étape 13, image 2 de 3 Remplacement du boîtier supérieur du MacBook Pro 13" Unibody mi-2012: étape 13, image 3 de 3
    • Avec la pointe d'une spatule ou votre ongle, ouvrez le clapet de retenue de la prise ZIF de la nappe du rétro-éclairage du clavier.

    • Assurez-vous de faire levier sur le clapet de retenue rabattu et non pas sur la prise elle-même.

    • Retirez la nappe du rétro-éclairage du clavier de sa prise.

    The first time I reassembled the system I left this tiny ribbon connector under the logic board by accident. If your keyboard backlight no longer works after reassembly it’s because you forgot to reattach this small connector. Fortunately, I caught my mistake before securing the logic board screws. It’s an easy to miss item.

    airshack - Réponse

    It is advised to tape this connectors out of the way of the mainboard. Use paper tape or paper labels as you want to avoid the electrical discharge associated with peeling off of plastic tape.

    dbovey - Réponse

    What the part name, i accidently broken this part

    Sandy Mustika Alam - Réponse

    Hi! I accidently popped the conector from the logic board. I bought a replacement, but im not sure how to glue/sold it to the board again. Can you help?

    rafael duque - Réponse

  14. Remplacement du boîtier supérieur du MacBook Pro 13" Unibody mi-2012: étape 14, image 1 de 1
    • Avec l'extrémité plate d'une spatule, faites levier sur le connecteur du voyant de la batterie/du capteur veille pour le débrancher de sa prise sur la carte mère.

    the sleep sensor/battery indicator were not included with my new case, i had to transfer them over from my old case. once the battery is out (step 22), you can see the three screws you need to remove in order to take it out. it’s also secured by adhesive. the button for the battery indicator will likely fall out (at least it did on mine) when you remove the board, so be careful not to lose it…my new case did come with the button for the battery indicator (even though it didn’t come with the board or cable), but i just re-used the old one.

    Matt - Réponse

    I forgot to place this tiny flex cable on top of the mainboard, and tried to recover it from under (lazy!) so I broke it.

    In general I would tape all those connectors out of the way of the mainboard. Use paper tape or paper labels as you want to avoid the electrical discharge associated with peeling off of plastic tape.

    dbovey - Réponse

    Update: the computer works even without this feature. Of course the led battery indicator does not work, but it is not a big loss.

    dbovey - Réponse

    Does it still sleep properly?

    maccentric -

    The flat battery indicator cable sits directly underneath the headphone jack/port and then goes to the top on the right side of the battery screw. If you forgot to put it underneath the port when reinserting the logic board (which leads to the battery not fitting), carefully slide it underneath the port into the small available space with a spudger.

    Chris - Réponse

  15. Remplacement du boîtier supérieur du MacBook Pro 13" Unibody mi-2012: étape 15, image 1 de 3 Remplacement du boîtier supérieur du MacBook Pro 13" Unibody mi-2012: étape 15, image 2 de 3 Remplacement du boîtier supérieur du MacBook Pro 13" Unibody mi-2012: étape 15, image 3 de 3
    • Saisissez la languette en plastique fixée au dispositif de verrouillage du câble de données de l'écran et pivotez-la vers le côté DC-In (prise d'alimentation) de l'ordinateur.

    • Retirez le câble de données de l'écran tout droit hors de sa prise sur la carte mère.

    • Ne soulevez pas le câble de données de l'écran, car sa prise est très fragile. Tirez sur le câble parallèlement à la surface de la carte mère.

    Its quite delicate, pull gently and it will pop out with a slight clicking sound

    Leo Jose - Réponse

    On my mid-2009 13" MacBook Pro 5,5 the display data cable was square with the motherboard, rather than at an angle. I'm not experienced with working on computer connections, but if I were going to describe this procedure, it would be more like:

    "Grasp the plastic tab on the end of the display data cable connection, and pull it gently back over the cable, toward the DC-in board. The tab is connected to a flat rectangular 'ring' that locks the cable to its connection, and when you pull the tab, the rectangular lock will flip back over the cable, allowing the cable to be removed by pulling the same direction, parallel to the surface of the motherboard."

    Larry Horton - Réponse

    Exactly the same as on the Mid2010 Model - never pull up, always parallel to the board, using the spudger to keep the cable down might helpfull while pulling with fingers the cable towards DC-In at the right side.

    Hans -

    My display is not working after reassemble the mac.

    Any reason?

    Nitin Sonwal - Réponse

    I had the same problem, and it was solved by slightly unscrewing the 14.4 mm screw that sits nearest the ESC button (upper left hand side, if the computer is open as if you’re using it). All the way screwed in, and the display conks out (something must be getting pinched). Slightly loosened, and the display immediately came back!

    Shannon Maguire -

    I choose not to remove this, just laid the board over. Worked just fine.

    Justin Patterson - Réponse

    I second this. It’s quite easy to leave this connection in place. The board flips over nicely, and everything is still accessible.

    Steven Weeks -

    I used my phone to photograph the entire underside of the Macbook Pro before I started removing things. This photo helped augment the excellent photos here. Take a few close-ups of each section/item before disassembly to reference upon assembly.

    airshack - Réponse

    when reattaching the display cable, i used the spudger to tuck the spongy top flap underneath the cable lock, so that i could then get the cable lock down the entire way. i couldn’t get it under there (and get the lock closed) without it, the top part of the display cable blocked it.

    Matt - Réponse

    When replaced the logic board when reassembled lap top screens not working. Saw others similar issues plugged in my monitor it’s working great must have messed up any ideas how to fix?

    Wayne McCarthy - Réponse

    Hi Wayne, and Michael! I had the same problem, and it was solved by slightly unscrewing the 14.4 mm screw that sits nearest the ESC button (upper left hand side, if the computer is open as if you’re using it). All the way screwed in, and the display conks out (something must be getting pinched). Slightly loosened, and the display immediately came back! —Shannon

    Shannon Maguire -

    My display is not working after I put everything back together, can hear the macbook chime. Tried shining light onto the display, see nothing. Tried loosening the screw slightly like someone suggested here, that does not help either. Tried cleaning the contacts of the LVDS cable, nothing. Any help appreciated.

    Don Seenu - Réponse

    This resolved it for me. My clasp wasn’t didn’t seem worn in any way but it seemed when it was clamped it caused the short circuit causing my screen to be black upon turning on. Lifting the clasp immediately resolved it. Odd issue! Thanks very much for the video. Incredibly helpful.

    Chris Gervais - Réponse

    Same problem as other users here at this point. I screwed the casing a little, and it worked, but I like to do things properly.

    If you want to fix it 1) open your computer.

    2) the flex of the screen has a kind of little lock made on wire.

    3) put the lock around the connection you should ear a little sound when it reach the good position. Make sure the tongue of the flex is above of the lock. And then it is fixed.

    Wish it helps and sorry by my English.

    Idk how to include photos

    Manu España - Réponse

    When reinstalling the cable, it is quite easier to do WITHOUT the display data cable retainer (step 17), in case you are reassembling everything in reverse order, as said in the guide's conclusion.

    While this can make the resitting of the cable easier, one of the retainer's screws is directly below the cable, so you'll probably have to do some funny screwing to reinstall the retainer.

    Exynix - Réponse

  16. Remplacement du boîtier supérieur du MacBook Pro 13" Unibody mi-2012: étape 16, image 1 de 1
    • Retirez les neuf vis suivantes :

    • Cinq vis Torx T6 de 3,6 mm

    • Deux vis Torx T6 de 4,3 mm

    • Deux vis Torx T6 de 7,2 mm

    • Sur certains modèles, les vis peuvent être légèrement plus courtes :

    • Cinq vis Torx T6 de 3,0 mm

    • Deux vis Torx T6 de 3,6 mm

    • Deux vis Torx T6 de 6,7 mm

    2 of the 7 listed 4mm screws attaching the logic board are actually 4.5 or 5 mm.... unfortunately. I didn't notice that until I was reassembling. so I don't know which positions they came from.

    starf1970 - Réponse

    I'm just noticing this too... I've put the longer screws as the two on the far left of the picture because they seemed to be the two holes I couldn't see the bottom to.

    ForumHermit -

    Just took one apart and paid attention this time. On this Mac, the screws colored orange should be red, and the 2 screws on the left side of the board should be orange (they’re a bit longer).

    maccentric -

    For keeping the screws straight I drew a simple diagram and placed them on it head down/threads up in their respective positions. Then all screws went back into their original positions without any guess work. Another suggestion I have during assembly is to start the screws without torquing them all the way down - leave them a little loose to allow some adjustment of the logic board for getting them all to line up with their holes, then torque them down. This technique also works for the screws on the bottom cover/lower case.

    Great guide! Saved me some dough, and now my MagSafe connector stays nice and cool.

    gregory mogle - Réponse

    for me the two on the farthest left were the 4.3mm screws. otherwise all went as described

    Levi Hoover - Réponse

    on something like this (like in iphones) i print the picture and place the screws on the picture. saves some problems and guessing.

    jeff chasalow - Réponse

    Well on my mid 2012 MacBook Pro the screw heads are definitely not T6 but rather J000. Will place the removed screws on a paper drawing of logic board. Good tip ….

    dontrep7a3 - Réponse

  17. Remplacement du boîtier supérieur du MacBook Pro 13" Unibody mi-2012: étape 17, image 1 de 2 Remplacement du boîtier supérieur du MacBook Pro 13" Unibody mi-2012: étape 17, image 2 de 2
    • Retirez les deux vis suivantes :

    • Une vis cruciforme de 8,6 mm

    • Une vis cruciforme de 5,5 mm

    • Retirez le dispositif de retenue du câble de donnés de l'écran du boîtier supérieur.

    Definitely not necessary to remove this bracket. You can disconnect the mic from the logic board and not have to deal with this bracket.

    kc7gnm77 - Réponse

  18. Remplacement du boîtier supérieur du MacBook Pro 13" Unibody mi-2012: étape 18, image 1 de 1
    • Avec la pointe d'une spatule, décollez délicatement le microphone de la bande adhésive le fixant au boîtier supérieur.

    Careful with this one. The wires are very thin fragile and it’s glued down very well making it extremely hard to remove. Just go slow and be patient otherwise you’ll damage the wires.

    Rob Kruit - Réponse

    I finally got that mic out by gripping it between two spudgers like a pair of chopsticks and gently pulling it out at an angle. The rubber shroud on it makes the thing hard to grip, and when I finally pulled it free, part of the adhesive ring tore off and stayed stuck to the chassis. When reassembling the machine, I had to kind of squish it back into place. It doesn’t hold quite as well as it did before, but it seems fine.

    Thomas - Réponse

    I managed to get the board out without prying the microphone off by twisting the board out while the microphone is still connected.

    You can then disconnect the microphone cable, which is a similar style connector to the fan cable and remove the board completely

    Alex - Réponse

    Vraiment pénible cette déconnection, allez y gentiment et la colle partira.

    raph raph - Réponse

    when reseating the logic board, first install the DC board in position and loosely seat the screws. then try to align the logic board to the 3.6mm screw housing closest to the firewire/ thunderbolt port and align the board to the ports and gently drop it into position. watch out for the cables that can get snagged under the board while seating it.

    Avocet Peregrine - Réponse

  19. Remplacement du boîtier supérieur du MacBook Pro 13" Unibody mi-2012: étape 19, image 1 de 1
    • En faisant attention aux nombreux connecteurs près ses bords, soulevez la carte mère du côté le plus proche du lecteur optique.

    • Sans la tordre, manipulez la carte mère pour l'enlever du boîtier supérieur, en veillant à ce que la connexion flexible avec la carte de raccordement (MagSafe /DC-In) ne reste pas accrochée dans le boîtier supérieur.

    • Ôtez la carte mère.

    I had the same issue. After wiggling the logic board back and forth and slowly applying more force, just up the threshold where I felt uncomfortable, it came out. The problem appeared to be caused by glue on the heatsink barcode sticking to the layer underneath.

    Shaun - Réponse

    I did all this, and worked! .but Im wondering, has anybody unscrewed what seems to be a mini heatsink (black 1 inch square housing) on the integrated GPU? Could I re apply paste on that?

    tony perry - Réponse

    I did make the change yesterday. inside it has a thermal pad, that appears to be 3mm or less. i try to clean on my best. I make a making a very tick pea size and added again. but i have no idea if it works or not. still having temps on 56c on idle. there is no much info on that. i use MX-4 from arctic. but i still, in my option, a little to for my use. if someone have more info on that part on the late 2011 i7 macbook pro 13inch please send the info.

    Carlos De Bernard -

    I did and applied Arctic Silver 5 underneath instead of the crap tape they put under there. This alone stopped the random freezing and rebooting problem I was having with this macbook pro. I recommend if you're already that deep into it, you might as well do it. I'm glad I did.

    ej257lgt -

    Need help. After I put everything back together, everything works fine but my macbook just wont charge. Any diagnosis on this? Anyone who can explain to me how the battery and the charging work in a Mac?

    justfinditjoshyip - Réponse

    If this happened to me, I would first suspect I hadn't completely connected the DC-in board cable. If I hadn't just replaced the battery, I would wonder if the battery was good. MagSafe power cable connect connections fail too, especially if they've been attached for a long time to a red hot DC-in board.

    If those failed, I'd head to the genius bar!

    Larry Horton -

    I had this problem. I accidentally cut the a cable from the DC-in board and I had to buy this component and replace it. You have to be very careful when mounting back the logic board in its position to not get a cable from the DC-in board cut by the screws.

    Enrique Cerrillo Cuenca -

    I broke the black backlight shield.... be careful when you feel the logic board and the film underneath it seem stickinig togethre.

    EUNAE JO - Réponse

    The fan exhaust grille was catching onto the speaker unit so I had to skip to step 28 to take it out. After taking out the airport card the speaker was able to move away from the fan grille and let me lift out the logic board.

    MrUnkownGuy - Réponse

    Also be sure to lift up the logic board to a slight angle so it clears the optical drive then pull it out gently at that angle. Do not pull it ulwards.

    MrUnkownGuy - Réponse

    The mainboard got stuck with the speaker and I can't lift it up. So I removed the first speaker screw (Wich is nearest to the mainboard) then I was able to remove the mainboard

    Mauricio Larrea - Réponse

    I removed the battery …. helps getting the logic board out.

    dontrep7a3 - Réponse

  20. Remplacement du boîtier supérieur du MacBook Pro 13" Unibody mi-2012, Boîtier supérieur: étape 20, image 1 de 1
    • Retirez les deux vis suivantes :

    • Une vis Tri-wing de 5,6 mm

    • Une vis Tri-wing de 13 mm

    I remove the battery first before removing the logic board. Makes it easier to get the logic board out

    kc7gnm77 - Réponse

  21. Remplacement du boîtier supérieur du MacBook Pro 13" Unibody mi-2012: étape 21, image 1 de 1
    • Saisissez l'étiquette d'avertissement sur la batterie et décollez-la soigneusement du boîtier supérieur entre la batterie et le lecteur optique.

    • Ne retirez pas l'étiquette de la batterie.

  22. Remplacement du boîtier supérieur du MacBook Pro 13" Unibody mi-2012: étape 22, image 1 de 1
    • Utilisez la languette d'extraction en plastique pour vous aider à retirer la batterie du boîtier.

    once the battery is out, you may also need to remove the sleep sensor/battery indicator and move it to your new case if it didn’t come with them. mine didn’t, so i had to do so…it’s secured by three screws (i believe phillips) and some adhesive. the battery indicator button was loose on mine and just fell out when i removed the board, so be careful not to lose it.

    Matt - Réponse

  23. Remplacement du boîtier supérieur du MacBook Pro 13" Unibody mi-2012: étape 23, image 1 de 2 Remplacement du boîtier supérieur du MacBook Pro 13" Unibody mi-2012: étape 23, image 2 de 2
    • Retirez les deux vis cruciformes fixant le support du disque dur au boîtier supérieur.

    • Ces vis resteront prises dans le support du disque dur.

    • Retirez le support du disque dur.

    • Le support du disque dur peut être fixé fermement contre le boitier.

  24. Remplacement du boîtier supérieur du MacBook Pro 13" Unibody mi-2012: étape 24, image 1 de 3 Remplacement du boîtier supérieur du MacBook Pro 13" Unibody mi-2012: étape 24, image 2 de 3 Remplacement du boîtier supérieur du MacBook Pro 13" Unibody mi-2012: étape 24, image 3 de 3
    • Soulevez le disque dur hors du boîtier à l'aide de la languette de traction qui y est attachée.

    • Retirez la nappe du disque dur de l'ensemble disque dur.

    • Retirez le disque dur.

  25. Remplacement du boîtier supérieur du MacBook Pro 13" Unibody mi-2012: étape 25, image 1 de 1
    • Retirez les quatre vis suivantes :

    • Deux vis cruciformes de 3 mm

    • Deux vis cruciformes de 9,7 mm

  26. Remplacement du boîtier supérieur du MacBook Pro 13" Unibody mi-2012: étape 26, image 1 de 1
    • Décollez soigneusement la mince nappe capteur infrarouge/voyant veille de l'adhésif la fixant au boîtier supérieur.

  27. Remplacement du boîtier supérieur du MacBook Pro 13" Unibody mi-2012: étape 27, image 1 de 2 Remplacement du boîtier supérieur du MacBook Pro 13" Unibody mi-2012: étape 27, image 2 de 2
    • Tirez le support avant du disque dur contenant le capteur infrarouge et le voyant de veille pout l'éloigner du bord avant du boîtier supérieur.

    • Retirez la nappe du disque dur.

  28. Remplacement du boîtier supérieur du MacBook Pro 13" Unibody mi-2012: étape 28, image 1 de 1
    • Repliez soigneusement la nappe AirPort / Bluetooth vers le haut lorsque vous décollez le câble de la caméra de l'adhésif le fixant au subwoofer et au support AirPort/Bluetooth.

    • Dégagez le câble de la caméra de son dispositif de retenue moulé dans le support AirPort/Bluetooth.

  29. Remplacement du boîtier supérieur du MacBook Pro 13" Unibody mi-2012: étape 29, image 1 de 3 Remplacement du boîtier supérieur du MacBook Pro 13" Unibody mi-2012: étape 29, image 2 de 3 Remplacement du boîtier supérieur du MacBook Pro 13" Unibody mi-2012: étape 29, image 3 de 3
    • Débranchez les quatre connecteurs d'antenne encadrés en rouge dans la première image.

    • Pour ce faire, utilisez la pointe d'un spudger pour retirer leur connecteur des prises sur la carte AirPort/ Bluetooth.

    • Dégagez chaque câble de sa rainure dans le support AirPort/Bluetooth.

    I did not even disconnect these cables, because they are easily damaged when reattaching. I just left them in their sockets and folded the whole assembly back and out of my way, when I needed to take out and replace the keyboard.

    Jurgen - Réponse

    they are ”antenna connectors” going to the “AirPort/Bluetooth” assembly so I am guessing they are needed for the bluetooth. I removed them with a pair of small flat screwdrivers to gently walk them out of the sockets - which are quite deep.

    jeremyyoung - Réponse

    One cable snapped on reassembly. It snapped from inside the copper band where the wires are bare of coating. This is figured made all three of these wires interface and share whatever they are transmitting. So, I crimped the broken wire’s ends and shoved it back into the sleeve. I have tested my wireless features for two days and everything works like a charm.

    Lee Hughart - Réponse

  30. Remplacement du boîtier supérieur du MacBook Pro 13" Unibody mi-2012: étape 30, image 1 de 1
    • Retirez les cinq vis suivantes :

    • Deux vis cruciformes de 10,3 mm

    • Deux vis cruciformes de 3,1 mm

    • Une vis cruciforme de 5 mm

    The second picture shows exactly how things are assembled, so looking at the picture tells you if you done any mistake or not. The first picture is very good for an overview the second to show the details.

    MacWiniac - Réponse

    While reassembling make sure the small metal ring attached to the longest antenna cable goes under the left 'red' screw.

    haabee - Réponse

  31. Remplacement du boîtier supérieur du MacBook Pro 13" Unibody mi-2012: étape 31, image 1 de 2 Remplacement du boîtier supérieur du MacBook Pro 13" Unibody mi-2012: étape 31, image 2 de 2
    • Tirez l'ensemble AirPort/Bluetooth et le subwoofer vers le haut près du milieu du côté du lecteur optique jusqu'à ce qu'ils se séparent.

    • Retirez l'ensemble carte AirPort/Bluetooth.

    When reassembling be sure the camera cable is tucked into the case at this point. Otherwise it will end up on top of the cable bundle and be too close to the bottom case lip.

    Ron - Réponse

  32. Remplacement du boîtier supérieur du MacBook Pro 13" Unibody mi-2012: étape 32, image 1 de 1
    • Retirez les trois vis cruciformes de 2,7 mm fixant le lecteur optique au boîtier supérieur.

  33. Remplacement du boîtier supérieur du MacBook Pro 13" Unibody mi-2012: étape 33, image 1 de 1
    • Soulevez le lecteur optique à partir du bord le plus proche de l'écran et retirez-le du boîtier supérieur.

  34. Remplacement du boîtier supérieur du MacBook Pro 13" Unibody mi-2012: étape 34, image 1 de 1
    • Décollez la nappe de haut-parleur droit du boîtier supérieur.

    Need to put the vertical piece just above the demonstrator's hand into the new case, or else the CD/DVD drive, logic board, and fan are missing screw holds.

    Carroll Cadden - Réponse

    This is where I stopped following the guide because I was only replacing the keyboard. (There are sooo many screws holding the keyboard down. It took a long time.)

    Reed Deemer - Réponse

  35. Remplacement du boîtier supérieur du MacBook Pro 13" Unibody mi-2012: étape 35, image 1 de 2 Remplacement du boîtier supérieur du MacBook Pro 13" Unibody mi-2012: étape 35, image 2 de 2
    • Utilisez un outil d'ouverture en plastique ou un autre objet mince et fin pour retirer soigneusement le haut-parleur droit de l'adhésif le fixant au boîtier supérieur.

    • Commencez à faire levier au bord du haut-parleur droit le plus proche de l'écran. Commencer de l'autre côté peut endommager l'une des antennes.

    • Progressez le long du bord du haut-parleur droit jusqu'à ce qu'il soit séparé du boîtier supérieur.

    tip: not only start at the end closest to the display, but start as close to the optical drive slot as you can get. i had to get way back there in order to get underneath the speaker to pry it loose.

    Matt - Réponse

    This was perhaps the hardest step. I could not get under the recommended side and had to start at the other end. The speaker was adhered so tight to the keyboard it was impossible to pry up on the right side. But no damage was done.

    Lee Hughart - Réponse

  36. Remplacement du boîtier supérieur du MacBook Pro 13" Unibody mi-2012: étape 36, image 1 de 1
    • Retirez le haut-parleur droit de sous l'ouverture du lecteur optique.

    What is that plate with the antenna attached? the one that sits under the speaker? My new upper case doesn't have that on there

    stdonato - Réponse

    Fourth- antenna wasn’t on the replacement case. I peeled the antenna off the old case (starting opposite the cable) and removed the disc screen, put both in the new case. The new case doesn’t have a hole for the screw securing the top of the antenna but the adhesive should hold it fine. I’m not sure if that screw acts as a grounding point, because there’s a bracket further up that antenna that also provides a ground from the shielding.

    Ruedi Schubarth - Réponse

    i also had to remove the plate with the antenna underneath to transfer it to the new case. there is an additional screw you need to remove in order to do this (you can see it just to the left of the index finger on the hand in the picture), and it was also attached by adhesive. i removed the screw and then used the spudger to get under the plate and loosen it from the adhesive.

    unlike the previous commenter, there was a screw hole on my new case to re-attach the antenna plate (in addition to the adhesive).

    Matt - Réponse

    Does anyone actually know what it is for though? Is it necessary?

    Maria ayers - Réponse

    It’s either for the Bluetooth or AirPort or possibly WiFi. I don’t know which one. Given the possible applications it’s probably best to move it to the replacement case. Just be careful not to bend it when removing since I don’t know how delicate the internal construction is. Also, when installing it in the new case, make sure it’s stuck down well, maybe even add some new double side tape. Where it’s positioned, if it pops up it could block access to the optical drive.

    Raymond Ives -

    As indicated, carefully remove the metal plate where the antenna is soldered. The plate is glued to the unibody topcase. It came loose when forcing a long strong tool like a flathead screwdriver underneath (spudger too weak) and following the metal plate from the hinge down along the superdrive opening. Careful not to damage the solders. The metal plate is so thin it could tear, but it comes loose quite evenly. Careful here!

    fbr - Réponse

  37. Remplacement du boîtier supérieur du MacBook Pro 13" Unibody mi-2012: étape 37, image 1 de 1
    • Retirez deux des trois vis Torx T8 de 6 mm fixant le côté droit de l'écran au boîtier supérieur.

    • Nous vous proposons à dessein de laisser une vis attachant l'écran au boîtier supérieur pour faciliter les étapes futures.

  38. Remplacement du boîtier supérieur du MacBook Pro 13" Unibody mi-2012: étape 38, image 1 de 1
    • Retirez le petit morceau de bande de mousse adhésive recouvrant les vis de la charnière gauche de l'écran.

  39. Remplacement du boîtier supérieur du MacBook Pro 13" Unibody mi-2012: étape 39, image 1 de 1
    • Retirez deux des trois vis Torx T8 de 6 mm fixant le côté gauche de l'écran au boîtier supérieur.

    • Nous vous proposons à dessein de laisser une vis attachant l'écran au boîtier supérieur pour faciliter les étapes futures.

  40. Remplacement du boîtier supérieur du MacBook Pro 13" Unibody mi-2012: étape 40, image 1 de 1
    • Ouvrez votre MacBook Pro à angle droit entre l'écran et le boîtier supérieur.

    • Placez votre MacBook Pro ouvert sur une table comme sur la photo.

    • Tout en tenant l'écran et le boîtier avec votre main gauche, retirez la dernière vis T8 Torx de la fixation en bas de l'écran.

  41. Remplacement du boîtier supérieur du MacBook Pro 13" Unibody mi-2012: étape 41, image 1 de 1
    • Veillez à maintenir l'écran et le boîtier supérieur avec votre main gauche. Si vous les lâchez, vous risquez de faire tomber l'écran ou le boîtier supérieur et donc de les abîmer.

    • Retirez la dernière vis Torx T8 fixant l'écran au boîtier supérieur.

    These are the remaining T6 screws

    Benjamin Teasel - Réponse

  42. Remplacement du boîtier supérieur du MacBook Pro 13" Unibody mi-2012: étape 42, image 1 de 3 Remplacement du boîtier supérieur du MacBook Pro 13" Unibody mi-2012: étape 42, image 2 de 3 Remplacement du boîtier supérieur du MacBook Pro 13" Unibody mi-2012: étape 42, image 3 de 3
    • Saisissez le boîtier avec votre main droite et faites-le pivoter légèrement vers le haut de l'écran, de sorte que le support supérieur de l'écran s'écarte du bord du boîtier supérieur.

    • Faites légèrement pivoter l'écran pour l'écarter du boîtier.

    • Soulevez l'écran et éloignez-le du boîtier, en tenant compte des supports ou des nappes susceptibles de rester accrochés.

    • Il ne reste que le boîtier.

  43. Remplacement du boîtier supérieur du MacBook Pro 13" Unibody mi-2012, Boîtier supérieur: étape 43, image 1 de 1
    • Retirez les quatre vis cruciformes de 1,2 mm entourées en rouge.

  44. Remplacement du boîtier supérieur du MacBook Pro 13" Unibody mi-2012: étape 44, image 1 de 1
    • Délogez soigneusement le bord du trackpad le plus proche du clavier de son orifice dans le boîtier supérieur en l'écartant des supports attachés au boîtier.

    • Faites passer la nappe du trackpad à travers sa fente découpée dans le boîtier supérieur.

    I concur with Anonymous 596. There is a support wall that runs front to back, under keyboard, held down by 2 Phillips screws that will need to be removed & transferred to new upper case. You can see it being touched by index finger in this pic.

    Macrepair SF - Réponse

  45. Remplacement du boîtier supérieur du MacBook Pro 13" Unibody mi-2012: étape 45, image 1 de 1
    • Éloignez le trackpad du bord extérieur du boîtier supérieur.

    • Retirez le trackpad et mettez-le de côté.

    There's a missing step here. In addition to the trackpad, there's an aluminum structural piece that sits under the center of the keyboard, that has to be migrated from old to new case. It's clearly shown to the left of the repair-person's right hand in step 44.

    anonymous 596 - Réponse

  46. Remplacement du boîtier supérieur du MacBook Pro 13" Unibody mi-2012: étape 46, image 1 de 1
    • Dans les étapes suivantes, vous allez préparer votre nouveau boîtier supérieur.

    • Utilisez un tournevis Torx T6 pour visser lâchement la vis de blocage de 1,1 mm incluse avec votre nouveau boîtier dans son trou moulé près du milieu de l'orifice du trackpad sur votre nouveau boitier.

    • Il suffit de serrer d'environ un tour pour le moment.

    I bought a used replacement case and had to move a few parts from the old case to the replacement. This included the battery indicator cable, the clips for the trackpad and the bracket in the center of the top case. So worth it at this point to compare your old and replacement case to be sure everything you need is there.

    Ron - Réponse

    my new case came with the set screw already installed, and i couldn’t loosen it. i didn’t want to strip it and cause a bigger problem, so i left it alone. the trackpad seems to work fine so far regardless, although i may take the bottom case off and play with it a little if i get a chance.

    i also (just like Ron) had to move the trackpad clips, battery indicator and center bracket to the new case. they were not included.

    Matt - Réponse

  47. Remplacement du boîtier supérieur du MacBook Pro 13" Unibody mi-2012: étape 47, image 1 de 2 Remplacement du boîtier supérieur du MacBook Pro 13" Unibody mi-2012: étape 47, image 2 de 2
    • Insérez soigneusement la nappe de votre ancien trackpad à travers la fente découpée dans votre nouveau boîtier.

    • Utilisez une main pour maintenir la nappe du trackpad en place lorsque vous insérez les deux pattes de retenue du bord extérieur du trackpad sous le rebord du boîtier supérieur.

    • Tirez sur la nappe du trackpad lorsque vous placez le trackpad dans son emplacement dans votre nouveau boîtier.

  48. Remplacement du boîtier supérieur du MacBook Pro 13" Unibody mi-2012: étape 48, image 1 de 1
    • Insérez une vis cruciforme de 1,2 mm dans chacun des trous extérieurs forés dans le trackpad (deux vis au total).

    • Vous installerez le reste plus tard.

    • Serrez les vis, puis desserrez-les d'environ un quart de tour pour faciliter l'alignement de votre trackpad au cours des prochaines étapes.

  49. Remplacement du boîtier supérieur du MacBook Pro 13" Unibody mi-2012: étape 49, image 1 de 1
    • En essayant continuellement de cliquer sur votre trackpad, serrez doucement la vis de blocage Torx T6 jusqu'à ce que les clics "semblent" fonctionner comme quand le MacBook était neuf.

    • Pour estimer le serrage de la vis, le bruit qu'elle fait lorsque le trackpad clique suffit. Si la vis de blocage est trop lâche, le trackpad aura trop de jeu avant le clic. Si elle est trop serrée, le trackpad cliquera trop facilement et ne produira pas le bruit sonore caractéristique de la souris.

  50. Remplacement du boîtier supérieur du MacBook Pro 13" Unibody mi-2012: étape 50, image 1 de 1
    • Ensuite, retournez votre boîtier pour que le côté clavier soit orienté vers le haut.

    • Alignez le trackpad de façon qu'il soit centré dans son trou découpé dans le boîtier.

    Pour l’alignement du Tradpad mettez sur les 4 cotés des morceaux de feuille A4😜.

    Caruso - Réponse

  51. Remplacement du boîtier supérieur du MacBook Pro 13" Unibody mi-2012: étape 51, image 1 de 1
    • Serrez les deux vis extérieures le long du bord intérieur du trackpad et vérifiez l'alignement de celui-ci sur le côté extérieur du boîtier supérieur.

    • Si l'alignement semble bon, vissez le reste des vis cruciformes le long du bord intérieur du trackpad.

    • Avant de réassembler votre machine, vérifiez que la vis de blocage permet toujours à la souris de cliquer correctement.

    You can actually replace the keyboard alone fairly easily! I don't know why everyone says you have to replace the whole top case, because if you've got the guts to go this far, you might as well just peel back the illuminator cover and get to work pulling all those tiny screws in the keyboard... Just be careful when peeling up the black adhesive keyboard cover, because you will need to replace it. I used the edge of the ifixit Sesame tool (very thin flat metal opening tool) to carefully slip under any bits of adhesive, and had the keyboard exposed in no time. Also be careful because the clear plastic sheet is actually the keyboard illuminator. Once under all that, it's a mere 50 or so tiny screws, 2 screws in the power button backing, and you've got the keyboard out. Use a magnetized #000 phillips, it will make life much easier than anything else.

    Logan Bean - Réponse

    Absolutely right. I just replaced a keyboard the same way without much problem but i just want to add that those tiny screws need extra care as the heads can get damaged very easily. If damaged, they become very difficult to remove.

    Masood -

    I did just that on my mid-2010 MacBook Pro about a month ago and sadly will have to do it to my wife's Early-2011 one next week. I was cleaning all the crap off her keyboard and apparently nuked the K and 0 keys on her keyboard. Probably my ply challenge was aligning the keyboard illuminator. It's still not aligned properly on mine so some keys are better lit than others, but otherwise it was a relatively easy fix and far cheaper than replacing the entire upper case.

    John Adam Wickliffe -

    I replaced my keyboard less than an hour ago. The biggest pain/most time consuming was reattaching the ZIF connector for the keyboard and backlight. No matter what I did I could not get the %#*@ thing to reattach. What sadist designs these things? I had to walk away from the project for an hour and finally success.

    All those screws will make you go crosseyed!

    Gordon - Réponse

    It helps to put some tape along the cable going lengthwise to the cable, and then fold the end of the tape onto itself to give yourself something to hold onto. This will give you some leverage to get that puppy into the socket.

    maccentric -

    I’m glad you managed !!!

    I’m suffering :( take a part about 5 times…… ordered new (used) keyboard, the same results. I tested logic board in my daughter MAC, board works 100% no trouble ……. what could be wrong? there a secret how to reassemble keyboard parts together? I ripped a little bit black plastic thing, not top one with tiny connectors……

    In the end I have two keyboards, cleaned and taken a part, both of them acting identical when installed. Some keys respond by giving absolutely not relevant symbols, beeping noise come with almost every key i pressed…..

    Recovering after massive cappuccino spell after surprising hug :(((((

    Aleksandra Perry -

    I swear to post photo step by step, if I will achieve this one……….. assemble back to 100% working condition after total reassembling, ultrasonic cleaning and drying………. just keyboard panel.

    Give me nightmares :) will be first time I have so much trouble to fix………

    Aleksandra Perry -

    I'm wondering about putting it back together. Different wires and small parts etc were glued or adhered in some way to the case or sides or whatever, as it is put together in the beginning. Is that just to make it easier to put it back together? Should I try to stick them back the way they were with something? Can you use tape or glue if it's just a wire? I wouldn't want to use something that would melt...or is this not something to worry apout?

    ingwis - Réponse

    I just used 1/4 polymide tape, and iFixit double sided tape. Works like a champ.

    Brent Hillyer -

Conclusion

Pour réassembler votre appareil, suivez ces instructions dans l'ordre inverse.

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12 commentaires

This is a great guide. Just replaced my keyboard after a spill. It's definitely a harrowing experience, especially getting all those 67 microscopic screws holding the keyboard against the top side. But if you sit down with approximately 2 beers (wouldn't recommend more or you'll probably start making mistakes), it's a perfectly manageable 3-4 hour experience. Just take it slow!

Nathan Beach - Réponse

If I replace just the keyboard, are there any steps that I can skip?

Duane Wood -

Just finished replacing the top cover assembly. The biggest problem I had was re-inserting the ZIF connectors for the keyboard and backlight. There isn’t enough room for my fat fingers to line up the cable with the socket. The angled tweezers applied carefully (don’t want to puncture or rip the cable) and a little help from a spudger made it happen. When switching the cases check carefully for “missing” parts. Besides the trackpad, the upper case I got from iFixit lacked the center support bracket for the optical drive and logic board, the little screw bracket for the bottom case and the antenna stuck to the case behind the right speaker. The antenna is a little fiddly because it’s stickied to the case and there’s not much room to pry it out without bending and possibly damaging it.

All that said, it wasn’t a particularly difficult job, just labor intensive. And the wife’s reaction to getting her business computer back without buying a new one was worth it.

Raymond Ives -

Just finished this and the only things I would add deal with the metal plate that hold the power meter button in is not mentioned and luckily I was able to slide the cable under the logic board and make the connection. otherwise it would be good to add this step before you re insert the logic board. Also the black and orange rubber part that is the bottom of the hard drive mount. They just lift out of the old case and slide into the new case. And there is a metal piece below the speaker that needs to be transferred as well.

Otherwise great guild.

maxcasas21 - Réponse

I just replaced the keyboard with all those pesky screws. But all is working again. I missed the part in replacing the keyboard itself in the first place. You need to have the sheets in the right order and in the right orientation. Also does it need removal of the stiffening bar that run along the keyboard. I forgot when I removed it, so I was a bit puzzeld when to put it back. Would be nice to add those steps also to this otherwise perfect guide!

haabee - Réponse

Thank you! I went on to replace the keyboard itself, which I found for $20. If I do it again I will make a guide.

steven - Réponse

This video might help in replacing the keyboard part. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OCmPqsvV...

pzb4 - Réponse

Just changed the upper cover, no way we could have done this without these instructions, many thumbs up

Saumil Patel - Réponse

Worked great only took about 45 minutes and works like brand new. I had already purchased another MacBook and just set the old one aside believing it was dead. But great experience, fast shipping, and easy tutorials. Love it

carston staehr - Réponse

After seeing how many screws were required to replace just the keyboard I decided I would much rather not risk losing one in the carpet or to the cat or half of them stripping (someone in the factory was lazy when they put my macbook together, half the screws were stripped the first time I opened the case) I went with the full top case replacement and I am so glad I did. Some bits may be slightly different if you had your macbook custom built and/or have made modifications along the way like I have, but overall the guide is perfect. Took me about three hours with distractions, but now my Y key works again and the entire setup is beautifully dust and cat hair free!

vcole - Réponse

Great guide. It would be nice to add the steps for replacing the keyboard / backlight - it wasn’t too hard but added at least an hour to the job !

I think its worth using threadlock on the screws as they often work loose later if you don’t

jonathan ansell - Réponse

additional info.

because i only need to change keyboard, i didn’t do steps 25~27 and 35~37

note: for keyboard removal use this guide step 27~29 MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Mid 2010 Keyboard Replacement (guide 23632)

sai - Réponse

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