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Remplacement du câble SATA de l'iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546

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  1. Remplacement du câble SATA de l'iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546, Écran: étape 1, image 1 de 1
    Outil utilisé dans cette étape :
    iMac Intel 27" Cardboard Service Wedge
    $4.99
    J'achète
    • Si la charnière n'est pas bloquée, l'iMac sera mal équilibré et vous aurez du mal à le manipuler. Vous pouvez effectuer une réparation en posant l'iMac à l'horizontale, mais ce sera plus rapide et plus facile avec une cale de maintien pour iMac.

    • Si vous utilisez la cale de maintien en carton iFixit, suivez ces instructions pour la monter.

    This instruction page is not clear and is ambiguous if you have to do all the steps to just change the power supply please clarify another words do I have to remove the speaker and the hard drive to replace the power supply?

    crawfordjohn - Réponse

    This is a display removal guide not the power supply guide!Here’s the guide you need to follow for that Remplacement du bloc d'alimentation de l'iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546

    Dan -

    Didn’t need the cardboard wedge to remove the display. Waste of money. Lay your Mac on its back.

    James Clive - Réponse

    Die verlinkte Karton-Reparaturhilfe ist für den 21"-iMac. Passt sie auch 1:1 für das 27"-Modell?

    Stefan - Réponse

  2. Remplacement du câble SATA de l'iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546: étape 2, image 1 de 3 Remplacement du câble SATA de l'iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546: étape 2, image 2 de 3 Remplacement du câble SATA de l'iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546: étape 2, image 3 de 3
    • En partant de la gauche de l'écran, près du bouton de mise sous tension, insérez l'outil d'ouverture de l'iMac dans l'interstice entre la vitre et le boîtier arrière.

    • Le moyeu de l'outil d'ouverture de l'iMac vous empêchera d'engager la roulette trop loin. Si vous vous servez d'un autre outil, ne l'insérez pas de plus de 9,5 mm dans l'écran. Sinon, vous risquez de sectionner les câbles de l'antenne et de provoquer de graves dégâts.

    Would a heat gun make this step easier? Or damage the iMac?

    Clark Green - Réponse

    A heat gun wouldn’t help you here as you still need to cut though the adhesive. You also risk damaging the display with the excessive heat.

    Dan -

    Removing the original adhesive is easier than removing newly applied adhesive (e.g., if you have to reopen iMac).  If you should happen to need to reopen the iMac, please use extreme caution and highly consider my suggestions below.

    When using the pizza cutter tool, do the first few steps in reverse starting with step 8.  Starting on the left side is better since this is where the adhesive is narrowest.  The right side has two antennas and the top right has one, see the pictures for step 18-21, they are the brass colored metal rectangles near the edges.  The adhesive on these pieces are wider and therefore have more holding power.  The thickness of the pizza cutter tool is enough to crack the glass.

    Walter Hayden - Réponse

    Continuing from my previous comment.  To remove the adhesive on the right side you’ll need to create a very slight gap to give the pizza cutter some more room.  Do this by cutting the adhesive on the left side up and around to the camera.  Before attempting to cut the right side. Carefully slide the plastic cards (I purchased two sets) to ensure the adhesive on the left top and side is completely free.  Now slowly move towards the right side.  After every inch or two of removing new adhesive, slide the card over to create this slight gap.  Be careful to not move the card too close to where the adhesive has not been cut.  You want to create a very slight gap without creating too much pressure.  Use extra caution with approaching the areas where the antenna are since the adhesive is stronger here and will need some additional cutting.  Follow this approach all the way around the right side.  Be careful to not create too much pressure at any one time.  Good Luck!.

    Walter Hayden - Réponse

    I can confirm with Walter - trying to remove freshly applied adhesive is WAAAAY harder! My pizza cutter didn’t work correctly (the circle became a rectangle!) and I ended up with a small crack on the left of my screen. Dang it!

    Benon Koebsch -

    I would highly, highly, highly recommend AGAINST doing this at home. I followed these instructions to a T, and still somehow managed to have the screen not be able to turn on after the hard drive replacement. Then, once you’ve opened your Mac yourself, Apple will refuse to fix anything on the computer, and even other third party, Apple-authorized repair facility will refuse to repair it for you, and you will have to locate a non-authorized Apple repair facility. There, I am having to pay ~$600 to fix things that got screwed up, even though I followed the instructions here to a T, step by step, and did everything slowly and methodically.

    Beware, if you’ve never done this before, that be locked out of ever being able to use an Apple repair facility, or Apple-authorized repair facility, if you mess things up here now.

    Luke Gibson - Réponse

    I performed this on a Late 2015 iMac and there weren’t any significant differences to these steps, but I did find the repair to be nerve-wracking. My model cost nearly $3,000 and about 10 steps into this guide (which I did fully read ahead of time) I was thinking, “what have I got myself into?” But I didn’t rush and happily I’m typing this on my repaired iMac! I found a video from OWC that was more useful than the photos in this guide for certain steps: https://vimeo.com/139364064

    Anthony Zimmerman - Réponse

    Don’t know if you are still around, but THANK YOU for posting this video! The video made it seem SO NOT SCARY and, in conjunction with the photos and comments and tips on this guide, was a lifesaver. Big thumbs up.

    Melissa Ortiz -

    First impressions so far: yes it can be a bit nerve wrecking if it is your first time doing this sort of thing and even with lots of experience with a 2011 model it’s still a bit unsettling haha (nervous laughter).

    What I recommend: use a guitar pick to start cutting the glue. You’ll need a bit of pressure so do just the tip.

    Once you’ve done the whole perimeter (minus bottom) do it again but now it should be easier to go deeper so go very slow and careful. Then get the old suction cups used to open older models and start lifting the display very carefully to see where it’s still glued and cut those as well.

    Then you should be done and now the real fun begins! :D

    Carlos Ferrari - Réponse

    It’s ridiculous. Apple should pay for doing this. Like glue parts together to block a repair / make difficult. I smashed my iMac. FU Apple. Seriously, every product I owned had hardware issues. For example, bad solder joints. Never again Apple. I’m happy with Windows and in 2018 / 2019 there are many other manufacturers with high quality stuff. Apple is dying, if they do not change …

    Depple - Réponse

    NOTE: I followed every step word for word, but the adhesive strips supplied are as bad as double sided tape. Within 48hours the screen had slipped off and cracked. Now I need to fork out for a new screen and try again.

    Not sure what to try next time with strips? Perhaps a bit of glue to help hold it??

    Dan Kelly - Réponse

    Where do i get the “iMac Opening Tool?” its neither in the list of tools nor could i find it on the tool page.

    Patrick Cella - Réponse

    Hi @snappadoodle! The opening tool is included in the adhesive kit included in the tool list, but you can purchase it separately here.

    Sam Goldheart -

    After disconnecting the power cord and before cutting the panel adhesive, push and hold the power button for 10 seconds. This will discharge the power supply capacitors. In case you accidentally touch the solder joints on the board, you won't be shocked and drop the panel.

    Paul Floro - Réponse

    Bottom line: This repair seems to have worked (so far no more intermittent shut-downs). Thanks iFixit!

    As a novice who fully expected to destroy the display or worse, I make the following recommendations: (1) Before you start, read the steps several (many) times; visualize doing them and imagine how things could go wrong; (2) Read all the comments—there were some really helpful tips—like simply displacing the left speaker rather than fully removing it; (3) Get the recommended tools*; and (4) take your time—if you start to feel frustrated—seriously, stop and take a calming breath. Time is your friend. Failure is not an option.

    *I would add a 3-prong parts puller to the tool list—it’s great for pulling and starting loose screws so you don’t drop them down into the chassis like I did. It’s also great for retrieving the screws you’ve dropped into the chassis.

    Brad Bauknecht - Réponse

    Hi brad, what exactly did you repair to stop the shutdowns? I’m having the same issue

    merinian -

    Merinian: I replaced the power supply and it’s still working fine at this late date. No more intermittent shut-downs. Fingers still crossed!

    Brad Bauknecht -

    Just completed the Core i5 to i7 CPU upgrade and can strongly recommend getting the “pizza tool” to cut the display adhesive. It worked flawlessly and was done in less than 5 minutes. No inadvertent cables cut. No display problems.

    John Fisk - Réponse

    Thank you very much for the instructive tutorial. I just successfully replaced the hard drive on my 2012 iMac 27. I used a disposable surgical scalpel 15 blade, and locked the blade extending 9 mm from the scalpel shaft using office tape. I used regular double sided tape to reattach the screen. I cut the strips using the scalpel. I have no previous computer experience and this is the first time I replaced a computer part. This was easy and fun.

    Filip Dolatowski - Friday 11th Dec 2020

    Filip Dolatowski - Réponse

    You are very lucky! I’ve had three systems come in which someone did the exact same thing! All three cut the display ribbon cables. Please don’t use surgical knifes or any other knife! Use the proper tool the special pizza cutter wheel designed for the task.

    .

    You likely spent more on the knifes than what the wheel cost with the correct tapes. You make the next time doubly hard to open not using the correct tapes! Hows the built in microphone? You may have messed it up.

    Dan -

    Thank you very much for the tutorial. You are the best!

    After reading all the post here I almost gave up doing this on my own. But I did it anyway and was succesful. I would recommend everyone to use the rollcutter. There is no risk of harming the screen if you use it. And in my case it was enough to open the imac. If you do not harm the screen connector or the screen the biggest part is done. It gets easier once you`ve stacked your screen somewhere safe. The parts inside are mostely not as delicate as the heavy and expensive screen!

    Take your time and work carefully. It is definitely doable!

    CONSULTINEL - Réponse

    I found the cutter tool that came with my kit to work just fine. The wheel is extremely thin and I had no problem inserting the wheel to begin cutting. I follow the guide for the most part but took my time and use the cutting wheel slowly and then repeated the process a few times. Once I was able to pry the screen back about an inch I used the other end of the tool to cut additional adhesive that was still clinging to the body of the iMac and the screen. Having just replaced the power supply, and having my iMac running again, I do not think I will use the adhesive strips to reattach the screen. The screen fit back in place no problem which I did to test my Mac. Because the iMac screen sits at an angle I am quite comfortable that the screen is not gonna fall off. Also while having a screen off I was able to clean the inside of the Mac of dust buildup. I think I will only use the adhesive strips down the road if I’m gonna sell the Mac, which means I can give it a good clean before securing the screen.

    James Orwin - Réponse

    If the screen falls off (which it will do!) it will damage the parts which would be a lot more expensive! PLEASE get the correct tapes and properly mount the screen back on.

    Think of it this way how many people have shot them selves with a gun not realizing it was loaded or set to go off!

    Dan -

    I think Dan is right as I decided it best to complete the process with the adhesive tapes to secure the screen. I just took some time to do a complete clean of the interior before sealing the display.

    James Orwin - Réponse

    Ordered the full kit to replace my busted 3TB disc hard drive. All the tools work and are excellent. These pictorial and instructional install videos are complete, easy to use, and have good imagery. The 2TB SSD installed exactly as depicted. I used some 3M double sided automotive emblem tape to stick adapter to iMac case, no probs there. The adhesive strips also worked fine and stick firmly. Screen is solidly mounted, no falling out here. IFixit is awesome and this kit saved my over $1200 in getting another iMac. Highly recommended.

    Rick Pierce - Réponse

  3. Remplacement du câble SATA de l'iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546: étape 3, image 1 de 3 Remplacement du câble SATA de l'iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546: étape 3, image 2 de 3 Remplacement du câble SATA de l'iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546: étape 3, image 3 de 3
    • Servez-vous de l'outil comme d'une roulette à pizza, en suivant le pourtour de l'iMac, de manière à effectuer une découpe au centre de la mousse adhésive.

    • Veillez à toujours pousser l'outil en plaçant la poignée derrière la roulette. Si vous tirez sur l'outil, la roulette risque de sortir de la poignée.

    • Passez l'outil de haut en bas sur le côté gauche de l'écran.

    I found the 'pizza cutter' surprisingly smooth at cutting through four-year-old adhesive.

    Gerry - Réponse

    In my experience the cutter also worked very well for cutting the original adhesive. Unfortunately when I was reinstalling the display with the new adhesive strips, somehow the display power connector came loose. I had to open the display a second time and the cutter was not as effective against the new adhesive. I managed to break the cutter tool plastic wheel and cause a few small cracks in the edge of the displays glass as I worked! Be careful and go slowly!

    azaadkb - Réponse

    The cutting tool worked great until I accidentally twisted it a bit while rounding a corner. A chunk of the wheel snapped off, making the rest of the job quite a bit more challenging. Just make sure you are keeping the tool directly parallel with the screen.

    BARRY RODRIGUEZ - Réponse

    I concur, opening the screen a 2nd time is considerably more difficult because the adhesive strips are thinner than the original, which makes getting the cutting tool inserted much more difficult….as a result unknowingly I elongated a small crack to a much longer crack and somehow, the LCD now has a wide grey strip from top to bottom….The first time opening was easy, second time resulted in a ruined screen.. The cost of. a replacement LCD is the same has replacing the entire computer….I would recommend anyone attempting to remove the screen for any reason, do not use the aftermarket adhesive strips if you ever intend to open it up; again, or cut the strips much shorter, or possibly use a few pieces of scotch tape or similar to hold the screen in place….since the screen tilts back, this should not be a problem…Good luck…

    S. Baxter - Réponse

  4. Remplacement du câble SATA de l'iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546: étape 4, image 1 de 3 Remplacement du câble SATA de l'iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546: étape 4, image 2 de 3 Remplacement du câble SATA de l'iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546: étape 4, image 3 de 3
    • Continuez à pousser l'outil autour de l'angle supérieur gauche de l'écran.

  5. Remplacement du câble SATA de l'iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546: étape 5, image 1 de 2 Remplacement du câble SATA de l'iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546: étape 5, image 2 de 2
    • Découpez la mousse adhésive le long du bord supérieur gauche de l'écran.

    The pizza cutter will sink in all the way to the tool handle when the adhesive is full cut, but don’t feel you have to do this in one motion. Some parts cut easier and some require a lot (like 20x) of gentle back and forth.

    Anthony Zimmerman - Réponse

  6. Remplacement du câble SATA de l'iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546: étape 6, image 1 de 2 Remplacement du câble SATA de l'iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546: étape 6, image 2 de 2
    • Continuez tout au long du bord supérieur de l'écran.

    • Vous pouvez repasser l'outil plusieurs fois au même endroit pour découper le plus de mousse adhésive possible.

    what about the part where the camera is though? do I just treat it like the rest of the screen?

    Boris - Réponse

    yes. the tool can’t go too deep

    flow in - Réponse

    I measured a depth several positions.

    - About 6 centimeters near iSight Camera center, you must no use iMac opening tool, because iSight element exists.

    - iMac opening tool has a 9mm radius, so it may break iSight camera element.

    - Making a plastic card stacking 2 or 3 to 3mm, under the iMac opening tool, that makes inserting a gap 5~6mm like below.

    @. iMac opening tool

    ====== plastic card3 (credit card 1mm)

    ====== plastic card2 (1mm)

    ====== platic card1. (1mm)

    ———————————————— isight camera element (total 5~6cm) ————

    In my case, i got a display problem where lcd display yellow connector was torn without care.

    Be helpful.

    KWANGBOK, LEE - Réponse

  7. Remplacement du câble SATA de l'iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546: étape 7, image 1 de 3 Remplacement du câble SATA de l'iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546: étape 7, image 2 de 3 Remplacement du câble SATA de l'iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546: étape 7, image 3 de 3
    • Passez l'outil dans l'angle supérieur droit de l'écran.

  8. Remplacement du câble SATA de l'iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546: étape 8, image 1 de 2 Remplacement du câble SATA de l'iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546: étape 8, image 2 de 2
    • Passez l'outil de haut en bas sur le côté droit de l'écran.

  9. Remplacement du câble SATA de l'iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546: étape 9, image 1 de 2 Remplacement du câble SATA de l'iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546: étape 9, image 2 de 2
    • Pour finir, passez l'outil au bas de l'écran en partant de la droite.

    • À ce stade, vous pouvez repasser l'outil tout autour de l'écran pour découper le plus de mousse adhésive possible.

    I didn’t have the fancy cutter or cards. So I used my actual pizza cutter. Followed directions just the same, and it easily cut through the adhesive w/o issues or marring the surfaces. Actually used it to rock back and forth to lift the screen. It’s all about taking your time. I rolled it back and further until cut thru. The 3/8 to 1/4 inch is right, but the screen framing actually prevents further depth unless you force it further. The adhesive actually protected the glass while cutting thru, so no damage. Great instructions, but where to get the replacement adhesive to reinstall?? Should be four independent strips.

    Keith Thomas - Réponse

    You are very lucky you didn't cut to deep! The plastic cutter that's in the kit is the only thing I would use. Spending a few bucks on a tool is a lot cheaper than $500 for a new display!

    Please don't use a real pizza cutter!

    Dan -

  10. Remplacement du câble SATA de l'iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546: étape 10, image 1 de 3 Remplacement du câble SATA de l'iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546: étape 10, image 2 de 3 Remplacement du câble SATA de l'iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546: étape 10, image 3 de 3
    Outil utilisé dans cette étape :
    Plastic Cards
    $2.99
    J'achète
    • Bien que l'outil ait fait le plus gros du travail, il est probable que l'écran continue d'adhérer légèrement au boîtier. Vous aurez besoin d'une carte plastifiée pour découper le reste de la mousse adhésive.

    • Posez l'iMac à l'envers sur une table.

    • En partant de l'angle supérieur droit de l'iMac, insérez une carte en plastique entre l'écran et le châssis.

    • Ne l'enfoncez pas de plus de 9,5 mm (3/8"), ou vous pourriez endommager les composants internes.

    I actually DESTROYED my display (black vertical strips) by pushing the card in a bit TOO DEEP. So it is REALLY important to insert the card only a bit (1-2mm) more than the cutter wheel, in particular at the top side, where many flat cables connect the panel with the PCB. These can be damaged very easily!

    Peter Fischer - Réponse

    Same thing with me…. Pushed cards to far…. new panel needed…€600…..

    i think ifixit needs to place a bigger caveat, as I have missed it the first time

    Edgar Broekema - Réponse

    i successfully upgraded two imacs. one opened with ifixit pizza knife and another with a regular paper knife. however, when i had to open the first one once again i broke its screen glass. it seems ifixit adhesive strips are too strong. next time i’ll try to use heater to weaken glue tension.

    Eugene Kharkov - Réponse

    I broke one too. And even if you think you did it correctly, you’ll not be able to see where you might have gone too far. You would think it’s very protected behind that metal plate, but no. Take special care with this offence to “right to repair” This should have been designed WAY better. I mean replacing a hardrive that is very likely to fail over the course of time, or even a simple desire to upgrade to an ssd!.

    Bummer

    Denis Sytmen - Réponse

    HINT: If you turn the card and use the blue part of it, then you can avoid going to deep: no further then the blue part …

    Barthold - Réponse

    On the cards I got with my iFixit kit, the blue part was way bigger than 9.5mm — closer to 20mm!

    I made a line 9mm from the edge of each of my cards and used that as a guide.

    Damian Chadwick -

    I’m thinking I might just use vinyl tape to keep the screen in place for at least a little while after an upgrade. The extra strength of the replacement tape sounds scary.

    Art Hackett - Réponse

    I wrapped two layers of vinyl electrical tape around the short side of an old gift card 3/8” from the edge. This “stop" prevented the card from going in too far. The card really helps to break the panel free.

    Paul Floro - Réponse

    This is a good tip!

    Lennart Saaf -

    Great idea! Wish I had read this before doing it. My less then optimal solution was to draw lines 3/8” around the cards, not as safe as your fix, but fast.

    Michael Piplani -

    Umm.. I’m not sure that I’d recommend using a repurposed credit card to open the display - I found that using the “pizza tool” to cut the old adhesive then using a pair of suction cups to gently pull the display up worked perfectly well.

    John Fisk - Réponse

    surely the card should have been designed such not to go further than certain distance with a barrier band.

    S Hussain - Réponse

    The cards don’t have any means to control the depth, its your skills which control it. Its no different from how you use a knife to cut your chicken up when you serve it for dinner.

    Dan -

    The pizza roller tool is enough to cut through the adhesive. You dont need to cut in a lot further. So the cards are really not necessary.

    sebastian.wittl - Réponse

    might be a stupid question but would credit cards or state ids work too?

    John Ta - Réponse

    You need the pizza cutter! The cards are used to hold the display off of the case frame.

    As for as using old credit cards and useless ID cards sure they will work. I wouldn’t use anything important ;-}

    Dan -

    No problems. I used two old credit cards and marked out a line using permanent marker so it was at the same depth as stipulated on this page. I even pushed it in a little deeper and no issues.

    James Clive - Réponse

  11. Remplacement du câble SATA de l'iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546: étape 11, image 1 de 2 Remplacement du câble SATA de l'iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546: étape 11, image 2 de 2
    • Faites délicatement pivoter la carte en plastique pour ouvrir un espace entre l'écran et le châssis et découper l'adhésif restant à côté du coin.

    • Forcer trop fissurera le verre. Travaillez soigneusement et n'essayez pas de créer un espace supérieur à 6 mm (1/4").

    My children tend to collect cards like this from hotels, Disneyland, old IDs, iTunes cards, gift cards etc. They came in handy for this step. After wedging in the first card into the left corner, I wedged the left corner, then added cards along the bottom edge. Finally I continued to push in additional cards to existing cards and found that this created a smooth even pressure along the display top. At 2-3 card-thickness the last of the adhesive let go, gentle as a baby.

    Anthony Zimmerman - Réponse

  12. Remplacement du câble SATA de l'iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546: étape 12, image 1 de 3 Remplacement du câble SATA de l'iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546: étape 12, image 2 de 3 Remplacement du câble SATA de l'iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546: étape 12, image 3 de 3
    • Veillez à vous arrêter avant la caméra iSight afin de ne pas l'endommager.

    • Faites glisser la carte vers le centre de l'écran pour découper le reste de mousse adhésive.

    was denn jetzt? Vor der Kamera aufhören, oder in Richtung Bildschirmmitte schieben, um DEN REST zu entfernen? Wenn ich vor der Kamera aufhöre, kann ich nicht alles an Kleber entfernen.

    Julia S. - Réponse

  13. Remplacement du câble SATA de l'iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546: étape 13, image 1 de 2 Remplacement du câble SATA de l'iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546: étape 13, image 2 de 2
    • Réintroduisez la carte dans l'angle et laissez-la en place pour éviter que la mousse adhésive ne recolle l'écran et le châssis.

  14. Remplacement du câble SATA de l'iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546: étape 14, image 1 de 3 Remplacement du câble SATA de l'iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546: étape 14, image 2 de 3 Remplacement du câble SATA de l'iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546: étape 14, image 3 de 3
    • Insérez une seconde carte dans l'interstice entre l'écran et le châssis, dans l'angle supérieur gauche.

  15. Remplacement du câble SATA de l'iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546: étape 15, image 1 de 2 Remplacement du câble SATA de l'iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546: étape 15, image 2 de 2
    • Tournez doucement la carte pour élargir l'interstice entre l'écran et le châssis.

    • Procédez comme vous l'avez fait de l'autre côté : déplacez la carte lentement pour découper la mousse adhésive et veillez à ne pas exercer une pression excessive sur la vitre de l'écran.

  16. Remplacement du câble SATA de l'iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546: étape 16, image 1 de 3 Remplacement du câble SATA de l'iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546: étape 16, image 2 de 3 Remplacement du câble SATA de l'iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546: étape 16, image 3 de 3
    • Faites glisser la carte vers le centre de l'écran et veillez à vous arrêter juste avant la caméra iSight.

  17. Remplacement du câble SATA de l'iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546: étape 17, image 1 de 2 Remplacement du câble SATA de l'iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546: étape 17, image 2 de 2
    • Réinsérez la carte dans l'angle supérieur gauche.

  18. Remplacement du câble SATA de l'iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546: étape 18, image 1 de 3 Remplacement du câble SATA de l'iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546: étape 18, image 2 de 3 Remplacement du câble SATA de l'iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546: étape 18, image 3 de 3
    • Soulevez l'écran de quelques centimètres seulement, car il est encore relié à l'iMac par les nappes de données et d'alimentation.

    • Insérez les deux cartes près des angles de l'iMac, comme illustré, puis tournez-les délicatement pour élargir l'interstice entre l'écran et le boîtier.

    • Si l'écran et le boîtier restent collés à certains endroits, utilisez l'une des cartes pour découper la mousse adhésive et les séparer.

    • Commencez à soulever le haut de l'écran pour le séparer du châssis.

    I would recommend using suction cups at this stage to lift the display.

    Marco De Palma - Réponse

    I would strongly recommend using suction cups

    Luca Mucci - Réponse

    Agreed about the suction cups. An extra pair of hands might be good here as well.

    Damian Chadwick - Réponse

    I agree, I’m using iFixit suction cups right now.

    tanner85 - Réponse

    Go very slowly when lifting the display – give time for the adhesive at the bottom edge to stretch and flow. If you lift too fast, the glass can crack. That’s what happened for me.

    Gerry - Réponse

    The stickiest location on my iMac was the mid-to-lower section of the right side. There are a couple of thicker areas that needed attention from the plastic cards.

    Lennart Saaf - Réponse

    This is the step where I cracked the screen.

    HABEEB102 - Réponse

    Did you use the pizza cutter tool first?

    Dan -

    WARNING!!! This is where you can crack you screen. TAKE YOUR TIME! Everything work fine for me because I took my time. I was very shocked at how fragile the screen is. It does have a small amount of flex but don’t push your luck. There were two things that made this easy for me #1 Once you have used the cutting wheel to your best judgement to cut the adhesive, start using the iFixIt plastic cards as spacers and space them evenly around the screen. I used 10 individual cards of and gently moved them up and down at each section two at a time. Once I started having less resistance, I combined 2(i.e. 5 sets total) cards evenly space to allow for move rigid and stronger movement to separate the screen. This really helped me to free up more adhesive. #2 before lifting the screen up fully, use tweezers to pull the adhesive like a string from around the entire monitor. This will make lifting the screen much easier since all adhesive will be removed. Finally when lifting the screen use the cards with your hands under them.

    Andrew Phillips - Réponse

    Would any of you consider the possibility of heating the glass with a hot-air fan before starting the process? In that way, the adhesive would let the screen go easier, I think.

    ManuG - Réponse

    The type of tape has a lot to do with it. If the original tapes are still present then the pizza tool slices through the thin foam core of the tape so heating is not needed. If on the other hand someone replaced the tapes with just regular double sided tapes then there is no foam core to split and there is a sizable risk the display will get damaged in the process of taking it off. So sure in this case a bit of heat might help, just be aware the LCD panel area is quite close to the edge along the top three sides so you also have the risk of dating it from over heating!

    Dan -

    If not for iFixit tuts and tools, no way I could do this. iMac 27" takes the prize as the worst design ever for upgrades/maintenance, what were they smoking when they designed it like this?

    Jim Gavioli - Réponse

    I have always believed that a properly placed screw can be a beautiful thing. A few decorative, but functional, screws placed in the back of the iMac case to attach the screen would be awesome, but this method is anything but beautiful and borders on insane.

    Leland Goertz - Réponse

  19. Remplacement du câble SATA de l'iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546: étape 19, image 1 de 2 Remplacement du câble SATA de l'iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546: étape 19, image 2 de 2
    • Tout en maintenant l'écran d'une main, débranchez sa nappe d'alimentation de l'autre main.

    • Soulevez l'écran suffisamment pour accéder sans difficulté aux connexions (environ 20 cm), mais pas trop, afin de ne pas soumettre les nappes et les connecteurs à des tensions excessives.

    Mark all cable connectors with a spot of white correction fluid before removal. This will remove the risk, when reinserting them later, of getting them the wrong way round. Yes - I know they will only plug in one way round, but it does make life easier if you are not in perfect lighting!

    Alastair Lack - Réponse

    At this step, if you mess up anything with these 2 cables, especially when plugging them back in, even if you think you’re following the instructions here to a T, then you’re screwed.

    I would highly, highly, highly recommend AGAINST doing this at home. I followed these instructions to a T, and still somehow managed to have the screen not be able to turn on after the hard drive replacement. Then, once you’ve opened your Mac yourself, Apple will refuse to fix anything on the computer, and even other third party, Apple-authorized repair facility will refuse to repair it for you, and you will have to locate a non-authorized Apple repair facility. There, I am having to pay ~$600 to fix things that got screwed up, even though I followed the instructions here to a T, step by step, and did everything slowly and methodically.

    Beware, if you’ve never done this before, that be locked out of ever being able to use an Apple repair facility, or Apple-authorized repair facility, if you mess things up here now.

    Luke Gibson - Réponse

    Quote - "Beware, if you’ve never done this before, that be locked out of ever being able to use an Apple repair facility, or Apple-authorized repair facility" You cannot be serious can you? So because someone attempted to repair their own Apple device that they OWN, you are saying that they may/will be locked out of using any Apple repair service again? Ridiculous claim sorry.

    Peter Newman -

    The display cable, the wider one, has a lock on it , usually a plastic tape lift tab to release it, once thats flipped it should come out fairly easily, if your experiencing resistance and the cable isn’t coming out then check for this lock/latch, the power cable just pulls out, just don’t rush it everything should go fine, fairly easy to do with the end result a working iMac

    Ed tabickman - Réponse

    Is it possible to replace the power cable if its damaged? I can’t seem to find anything about this.

    Joseph Orr - Réponse

    After finishing my hard drive replacement I reconnected these connectors to test my display before using new adhesive. Everything was working beautifully. But then when I applied the new adhesive and went to seal the display on for good - the display power cable somehow became disconnected! I had to reopen the Mac for a second time which was far more difficult with new adhesive. When reinstalling double and triple check that the cables are securely inserted before the final seal. Sounds obvious but it’s quite the annoyance if something goes wrong at this point.

    azaadkb - Réponse

    Very difficult to work with these connectors.

    Power cable very difficult to unplug - data cable veeeeery difficult to plug in.

    I noticed that working with the iMac positioned vertically (and with a proper support for inclination) makes this step slightly easier…

    Luca Mucci - Réponse

    Interesting comments.. personally, I didn’t find the cables particularly difficult to detach and reattach. You do have to be patient and gentle. Personally, I found that a rolled up beach towel gently wedged between the unit and back of the display helped keep the glass up. Also, a small flashlight can be helpful to see the cables and connectors if you’re lighting isn’t perfect.

    John Fisk - Réponse

    I’d agree to John - not overly difficult. My workaround was to prep the screen for re-installation and then place it in front of the standing machine. The cables are long and flexible enough to be put in place even in this state. You can easily attach the cables and continue with fixing the screen to the housing.

    stefan - Réponse

    I would not recommend doing this step as pictured. The cable you are removing has little tabs on the wide side that can be depressed inwards towards the center of the connector, releasing the cable. If you just grab the cable as pictured and yank it out, without depressing the side tabs, you are likely to damage something. Don’t pull on the wires, use your fingernails at the connector to squeeze the very small little tabs inward to release the cable from the connector.

    maccentric - Réponse

    The removal of the LCD power cable does require the left and right sides to be squeezed inwards towards each other first before removing, why this isn’t mentioned in the take apart can lead to damaging the iMac.

    robert - Réponse

    I agree with maccentric. DO NOT just pull the power cable. Use your fingernail or spudger and gently press the tiny notch inward and towards you gently and one side will disengage. Do the same for the other side and it will slide right out. The notches just have enough edge to catch your nail or spudger. Using your nail is better as you can better feel when you have caught the edge and can feel the cable move.

    Andrew Phillips - Réponse

    I lifted the display a few inches up and propped it open in the middle using my iPhone in portrait mode with its torch on. Did the job nicely:

    James Clive - Réponse

  20. Remplacement du câble SATA de l'iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546: étape 20, image 1 de 3 Remplacement du câble SATA de l'iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546: étape 20, image 2 de 3 Remplacement du câble SATA de l'iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546: étape 20, image 3 de 3
    • Basculez le support de fixation métallique de la nappe de données de l'écran vers le haut.

    • Débranchez la nappe de données de l'écran.

    • Cette connexion est fragile et s'abîme facilement. Veillez à tirer le connecteur de la nappe de l'écran vers le haut de l'iMac, tout droit hors de sa prise.

    I replaced HDD to SSD and assembled parts again. When I boot up the iMac, I found black lines on display (looks partly not broken).

    I searched Internet, and some says graphic card problem, but I didn't touch anything but cable to lift up.

    Could the damaged display data cable cause this situation? I hope I could fix this by just replacing the cables..

    chansung park - Réponse

    Sorry, Black lines is a damaged display assembly ;-{ In the process of removing it you either pushed the tool into deep or you torqued the glass severing the tiny wire traces.

    Dan -

    Same trouble here, is it cable trouble or connector trouble?

    redfoxydarrest - Réponse

    Sorry damaged display

    Dan -

    I think whenever words like "...is a delicate connection that can be broken. Be sure to pull the [cable in a certain direction] ANYTIME.... It is worth either a closeup or 2, maybe one with annotations or insertion directions and maybe a motion direction arrow with the something like and 'X' char or a circle division slash over the wrong one.

    john - Réponse

    I agree! +1

    Jim Reitz -

    Yes, John is absolutely correct on this one. I damaged the display cable trying to get it back in. A close up would have helped and now my computer might have actually been fixed.

    Marsha Giardina -

    [|There are 2 cables to disconnect on my Mac (?). Also, I don’t see a metal retaining bracket. I can take a picture, but cannot attach. I got the glass loose with no problem, but am worried about damaging the cables]

    Jim Kelly - Réponse

    Hi Jim! You can go to our Answers Forum to post some better images of your situation!

    Sam Goldheart -

    At this step, if you mess up anything with these 2 cables, especially when plugging them back in, even if you think you’re following the instructions here to a T, then you’re screwed.

    I would highly, highly, highly recommend AGAINST doing this at home. I followed these instructions to a T, and still somehow managed to have the screen not be able to turn on after the hard drive replacement. Then, once you’ve opened your Mac yourself, Apple will refuse to fix anything on the computer, and even other third party, Apple-authorized repair facility will refuse to repair it for you, and you will have to locate a non-authorized Apple repair facility. There, I am having to pay ~$600 to fix things that got screwed up, even though I followed the instructions here to a T, step by step, and did everything slowly and methodically.

    Beware, if you’ve never done this before, that be locked out of ever being able to use an Apple repair facility, or Apple-authorized repair facility, if you mess things up here now.

    Luke Gibson - Réponse

    Can anybody upload an image of how the display can get damaged from removing it? I find it hard to believe (though I’m reading the horror stories here) that a whole display can get damaged. Especially when many of us were following to a T and being VERY CAREFUL.

    Thanks.

    Bryan - Réponse

    First: During reassembly, I highly recommend you connect these cables and do a test boot BEFORE you remove the protective tape on the adhesive strips. That way you can fix any issues(like a damaged cable) if something is not right and you have not re-glued the screen back down which will cause a problem. If you have a second person and everything is working after test boot, you can just leave the cables connected, lift the bottom of the screen and have 2nd person pull the protective tape on the adhesive strips and you can set the screen in place. Second I damaged the video data cable during reassembly on my late 2015 iMac- I did not get the connector straight and I damaged the wires on the cable. I recommend you have someone else hold the screen while you attach the cables - they are fragile. Luckily, the data cable was easily replaced for only about $20. If you must do this by yourself, just be careful I highly recommend have 2 people at this step during reassembly.

    Chip T - Réponse

    At least on my “late 2013” model, the smaller display cable connector has tiny, tiny clips on the outside edges. These must be squeezed to unlatch it. Don't pull on the cable itself or the wires can be pulled out. Even with my small fingers, it was hard to grip the clips. When reconnecting, the connector will lightly snap into place.

    Paul Floro - Réponse

    I managed this step without any problems, but I had my wife hold the screen up while I disconnected/connected the cables. I STRONGLY encourage another pair of hands here so you can focus your full attention on being ultra careful with the cables.

    BARRY RODRIGUEZ - Réponse

    On the 2015 there are 2 cables.

    1. Once the display is loose use the Mac foam block sold from Ifixit to keep the display from rocking to hold open the glass

    2. Blow out dust with canned air

    3. Get a flash light and small flat edged screw driver

    4. Use the screw driver to slow pry loose the connector from the socket by gently inserting it in the gap on the left and then on the right slowly easing the connector from the socket towards the top of the glass

    5. The more center connector has a pull tape and a wire loop. Lift pull tape and the wire loop will raise up.

    6. Pull the wire loop towards the top of the glass to slide out the connector from its socket

    Anthony Crocker - Réponse

    Good instructions except for the screwdriver - try and use a plastic spudger instead ! Also, getting a headworn LED light makes life a bit easier.

    Philip Sedlmair -

    Have a late 2013 model and went to do the SSD upgrade. When going to remove the display we cracked the bottom left corner of the glass (just the glass frame part - not part of the screen that displays anything). We were also having difficulty putting re-attaching the display flex cable. Whenever we finally went to test it before re-sealing the screen back on with new adhesive it would sound like it is turning on as it makes boot-up noises and the fans start running, but the screen would just remain black. Just wondering if the crack in the bottom left-hand side of the glass/display would have damaged a part of the display assembly or if it would be more likely that we just damaged the display flex cable (which can be replaced for $26)?

    Zach Tweel - Réponse

    Did you get to the bottom.of this?

    paul.lynch1 -

    does anybody know how the Display Cabel pin assignment is? I want to try if I can attach the Panel to another grafic card

    Marco Rizzo-Scheible - Réponse

    I’ve completed the upgrade to SSD, but while restarting my screen remains black. As if no connected.

    I assume I broke the sensitive connector.

    —> how to order a spare?

    Durain - Réponse

    Did you get to the bottom of this?.

    paul.lynch1 -

    is the display assembly of 2015’s the same as 2017’s?

    zenu - Réponse

    No! Apple loves to mess us up!

    Dan -

    The panels are different since technology progresses at a rapid pace and Apple does like to be on bleeding edge of things. When they do a manufacturing run of screens, there will be a few years that will have the same screen. I believe 2017 is when they introduced the higher resolution panels. Everything from 2012 late to 2015 should be the same though.

    Philip Sedlmair -

    That display cable connector is common to many Macs of the 2012 era. I’ve destroyed 2 in 38 years of servicing all types of computer equipment.

    As stated, there is a latch on this connector. If you put any incorrect force on the cable or connector during disassembly or reassembly, you will break the cable and possibly the connector. The cables can be purchased online and the video connector on the display is exactly the same.

    I repeat, if you pull out on the video cable after it has been unlatched instead of parallel to the logic board, YOU WILL BREAK IT.

    James Hendrickson - Réponse

  21. Remplacement du câble SATA de l'iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546: étape 21, image 1 de 2 Remplacement du câble SATA de l'iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546: étape 21, image 2 de 2
    • Relevez l'écran jusqu'à ce qu'il soit presque vertical.

    • À ce stade, il reste une bande de mousse adhésive en bas de l'écran, qui maintient ensemble l'écran et le châssis comme une charnière. Vous pouvez la décoller en abaissant et soulevant l'écran plusieurs fois de suite.

    • Retirez autant d'adhésif que possible en le saisissant par les bords extérieurs, puis en le tirant ou en le faisant rouler vers le milieu.

    Thank you Stef, that's what i will do next time, i cracked the lower part of the screen went opening very slowly, that's probably why those "tabs are for !!

    dforgues - Réponse

    Thanks Stef, this has saved me! Simple yet very effective.

    David Zemsky - Réponse

    Yep, I cracked the lower corner of the display as well. I failed to work the adhesive enough to loosen it sufficiently. Be careful, I just had to buy my customer another screen!

    Peter Haigh - Réponse

    There seems to be missing a step or two. As I was removing the old display, there are two wires that need to get transferred to the new replacement display. There is not note about these two wires located at the top of the display. The 1.128-inch ribbon cable and then this other 4-inch long, two-wire cable that goes to a very small circuit board that is 1/4 by 3/8 of an inch and seems to be adhered to the panel.I have not been able to get this cable off the old display. There is a port for it on the replacement display.

    Note: When ordering this screen, and plastic cards as noted tools, ifixit.com did not list the pizza cutter or the new replacement adhesive strips. So now I’m not sure how to get the new one on and secure.

    Todd Derek - Réponse

    Are you sure your trying to remove a late 2013 model A1419 display assembly?

    robert -

    The adhesive strip along the bottom is designed with a pull tab on each outer end. Rather than lever and pull the screen simply carefully pull the tab which removes that half of the lower adhesive strip and frees up the screen.

    Andrew Stephens - Réponse

    Niemals den unteren Klebestreifen mit einem scharfen Gegenstand wie Rasierklinge oder so versuchen zu trennen, davon geht die Beschichtung des Displays kaputt und man hat hässliche Streifen unten hinter dem Glas. Stattdessen lieber versuchen, das Display nach oben zu klappen und abzuziehen.

    Bas ti - Réponse

    translation from Bas Ti because this is very important:

    Never try to separate the bottom adhesive strip with a sharp object such as a razor blade or something, the coating on the display will break and you will have ugly strips at the bottom behind the glass. Instead, try to flip up and pull off the display.

    Kurt Grootjans - Réponse

    If you are just replacing the hard drive, I have found that it is quite possible to do while leaving the screen connected, making the process much easier. The amount you need to tilt the screen to access the little pull tabs at the bottom to release the screen is also sufficient to access the drive. I remove the drive while the iMac is upright. I also heat up the bottom of the screen to soften the glue and to help with the possibility of the glass cracking while doing this step.

    maccentric - Réponse

    Very dangerous! You’ll stress the cables and the logic board connectors.

    Dan -

    I meant that you can leave the bottom strip of adhesive attached; you still need to disconnect the 2 cables.

    maccentric -

    As mentioned before you can pull out the lower adhesive strip. Dont cut it or move the display up and down. This is even more dangerous. On the lower side of mac where the display glass ends is a offset. When moving the display up and down you might crack it over that offset.

    sebastian.wittl - Réponse

    When removing the adhesive from the top of the screen, be sure to start at the iSight camera location (= in the middle). If you start at an upper egde of the glass (side doesn’t matter) towards the middle, you risk removing the black background foil from the screen, which will result in ugly stripes behind the glass.

    christopher.winter - Réponse

  22. Remplacement du câble SATA de l'iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546: étape 22, image 1 de 3 Remplacement du câble SATA de l'iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546: étape 22, image 2 de 3 Remplacement du câble SATA de l'iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546: étape 22, image 3 de 3
    • Veillez à ne pas toucher les pattes des condensateurs ni les joints de soudure à découvert à l'arrière du bloc d'alimentation (dans l'encadré rouge).

    • Servez-vous, si nécessaire, d'une carte plastifiée pour découper la mousse adhésive aux endroits où le bas de l'écran continue d'adhérer au châssis.

    Would have been helpful to box the same red area when using the plastic card to separate the glue. Since the red blocked picture is inverted, if someone doesn't pay close attention it may not be obvious that the area of concern is at the right top of the graphic pictures in which the plastic card use is being demonstrated..

    Wizbang FL - Réponse

    you don't need to cut the bottom part as the bottom tape is stuck on each side and you can easily pull it out

    Thomas Webb - Réponse

    What is the twisted wire taped to the back of the display that can bee seen in the upper right of the first two pictures? I have an 27” iMac without a screen an my replacement does not have this wire. I think it is a temperature sensor but do not know where it connects to.

    Eric - Réponse

    [|I opened up my iMac and there’s no HDD or SSD in that spot. its just empty.]

    John Warmann - Réponse

    You probably had just an SSD installed and no HD, which is on the opposite side of the motherboard (and quite a bit more work to access).

    maccentric -

    Please update the picture to include the RED BOXED IN AREA that you refer to on all three pictures in this step. I have had a few zaps from these supplies and it is not pleasant.

    Charlie Nancarrow - Réponse

    J’ai réussi à intervenir dans l’iMac sans décoller l’ensemble de l’écran. Je l’ai ouvert en laissant la dernière partie collée (vers le logo Apple) et qui sert comme une charnière. Bien calé et assuré l’écran n’a pas bougé et j’ai pu changer mon disque dur facilement. Le grand avantage et d’avoir l’écran toute suite juste quand on le recolle par la suite.

    David Mariaux - Réponse

    Well, I of course touched a soldering point in the red area as my hand slipped. I heard and felt a tiny “click” and after replacing the HDD with SSD etc I can not power the iMac up anymore. Not a sign of life :-( I suppose I broke the power supply. Can someone confirm? Or could something else have broken too?

    David Rosner - Réponse

    I took my time and pulled both tabs slowly gently. Easily removed and glass came right off.

    Keith Thomas - Réponse

  23. Remplacement du câble SATA de l'iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546: étape 23, image 1 de 3 Remplacement du câble SATA de l'iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546: étape 23, image 2 de 3 Remplacement du câble SATA de l'iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546: étape 23, image 3 de 3
    • Faites très attention lorsque vous manipulez l'écran : il est grand, lourd et en verre. Ses bords sont fragiles. Évitez de le tenir par les coins.

    • Soulevez l'écran pour le séparer du châssis et sortez-le de l'iMac. Posez l'écran à l'envers sur une surface plate et molle.

    • Vous devrez peut-être soulever lentement l'écran d'un côté pour le décoller complètement.

    • Une fois l'adhésif découpé, il ne peut pas être utilisé pour refermer l'écran en place. Suivez ce tutoriel une fois la réparation iMac terminée, pour remplacer les bandes adhésives qui fixent l'écran au boîtier arrière.

    You really should be using film handling or surgical type gloves to handle the screen to minimise finger grease on any of it. Even if it’s possible to clean most of it off, it can be corrosive over time.

    Art Hackett - Réponse

    Use a large suction cup and latex gloves for this:

    https://www.amazon.com/FCHO-Suction-Alum...

    Philip Sedlmair - Réponse

    I think iFixIt should have mentioned this step might be safer using a suction cup as mentioned by Philip.⏎
    I thought following the guide, holding the screen on each side would be fine, but the glass cracked almost immediately.

    I did not grab it by the corners, just the middle of the glass.

    This glass is horrendously fragile. I don't think I can afford to repair the screen :(

    Rod Landaeta - Réponse

    Lowering the screen down at the end here does not need a suction cup. It sounds like you left something in the channel so you fractured the screen from the object (a loose screw?). I've done a ton of these systems and have not needed a suction cup at this step. I do agree a suction cup can be helpful in the screen removal process. just to give you a better purchase, not pulling! As you can damage the screen if you pull too hard.

    Dan -

  24. Remplacement du câble SATA de l'iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546: étape 24, image 1 de 1
    • Si vous changez d'écran iMac, vous devrez peut-être transférer des composants supplémentaires de l'ancien panneau sur le nouveau. Comparez le dos de l'ancien écran avec l'écran de remplacement. Notez tous les câbles, nappes, capteurs et coussinets en mousse qui manquent sur le nouvel écran.

    • S'il y a un câble ou une nappe sous le ruban adhésif, retirez toujours le ruban en premier.

    • Si la nappe est collée au châssis, utilisez d'abord un iOpener chauffé ou un sèche-cheveux pour ramollir l'adhésif. Vous pouvez ensuite faire glisser un médiator sous la nappe pour la décoller. Ne tirez jamais directement sur les connecteurs délicats.

    • Faites glisser un médiator sous les coussinets en mousse pour les séparer de l'écran et retirez-les délicatement. Vous devrez peut-être utiliser du ruban adhésif double-face pour les rattacher au nouvel écran.

    Be extremely careful removing the LCD Temp Sensor from the rear of the screen. If you pull the wire, you run the risk of severing the metal wire from the connector but not notice it because the surrounding plastic insulation may still be intact. Use a razor blade so “shave off” the sensor under the adhesive. I just had the screen replaced by a local shop and, upon boot, the fan was running full-speed and the Mac’s speed was miserable; Excel took 30 bounces in the Dock to launch rather than the expected 4-5. Novabench showed the Mac running at 4% of its expected speed (overall). The tech examined the sensor carefully, found the broken connection, soldered it back into place, and all was fine. Note that the (partially disconnected) sensor actually showed up when I ran Macs Fan Control in an attempt to work-around this. No problem controlling the fan speed then but the iMac’s running speed was awful until the disconnected sensor wire was fixed.

    barryjaylevine - Réponse

    Hi barryjaylevine,

    I’ve had my LCD replaced on my iMac 27 / 2013 and there is no LCD Temp Sensor cable on the replacement screen.

    I’m experiencing the same performance issues.

    I’ve ordered a new sensor, do you have any pointers as to how to install it?

    Thanks,

    Simon

    UK

    simon kennedy -

    hey Simon, I used 2-sided tape….this is assuming the new sensor doesn’t already come with an adhesive surface already applied.

    a roll of kapton tape for your own peace of mind will make sure nothing detaches from thermally-induced adhesive crystallization

    make sure you position it in such a way that you can easily plug the lead back into the mobo….not a lot of length to that wire

    placebomessiah - Réponse

    Howdy folks,

    Thanks for all the tips, LCD sensor fitted and iMac back in action.

    Never again!

    Simon

    simon kennedy - Réponse

    Hello all. So I’m trying to pinpoint my backlight issue on my 2015 retina 5k - I noticed I’m missing my thermal sensor on the LCD. Would this help with the backlight? I’m sure it will keep my fans from going crazy. Any help would be appreciated! Note: I have LEDs except the 4th one. Thanks!

    Jordan Shababy - Réponse

    Be careful when removing the adhesive residue!

    I didn’t know it, but I ended up leaving slight scratch marks that can be seen from the front side.

    Eric - Réponse

  25. Remplacement du câble SATA de l'iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546, Démonter le haut-parleur gauche: étape 25, image 1 de 1
    • Retirez les deux vis T10 de 10 mm.

    I found i didn’t need to remove the speaker nor the hard drive. In fact I managed to remove the old PSU without even removing the chin strap. However, to install the replacement PSU, I had to remove the chin strap. So I would say, remove the chin strap, but you can optionally leave the speaker and hard drive in.

    Cool_Breeze - Réponse

    While you do not need to fully remove the screws as once you loosen them a few turns the speaker becomes free. I found that after the removal of the speaker, I turned it over and popped the screws out as this made it easier to replace it later as I could see the alignment before putting the screws back in. If not you may be off a little and you do not want to force the screw back in.

    James Orwin - Réponse

    I used a pill container that I got from Walgreens to hold all of the fasteners I removed during the disassembly process. The container has 14 compartments (individual compartments for each morning and evening of the week). I put a small piece of paper in the compartment with the fasteners to note the name and step of the procedure and the size of the tool I used. Hopefully this will be useful when I go to put it back together again.

    Dan Smith - Réponse

  26. Remplacement du câble SATA de l'iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546: étape 26, image 1 de 3 Remplacement du câble SATA de l'iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546: étape 26, image 2 de 3 Remplacement du câble SATA de l'iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546: étape 26, image 3 de 3
    • Débranchez le câble du haut-parleur gauche de sa prise sur la carte mère.

    • Libérez le câble de l'interstice entre le disque dur et la carte mère.

    • Si l'espace entre la carte mère et le disque dur est trop étroit pour le câble du haut-parleur, déconnectez-le et laissez-le en place.

    I didn’t unplug and de-route this cable. Later, Step 29, has you remove the left speaker. This isn’t necessary. If you can just move the speaker over to expose the hard drive mounting screws, so if you’re not going to remove the speaker, you don’t need to unplug it.

    Anthony Zimmerman - Réponse

    on the 2019 iMac, it is horizontal not vertical so pull it horizontally out.

    tarex7 - Réponse

  27. Remplacement du câble SATA de l'iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546: étape 27, image 1 de 3 Remplacement du câble SATA de l'iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546: étape 27, image 2 de 3 Remplacement du câble SATA de l'iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546: étape 27, image 3 de 3
    • Veillez à ne pas toucher les soudures à l'arrière du bloc d'alimentation. Les condensateurs peuvent être chargés suffisamment pour provoquer une décharge électrique dangereuse.

    • À l'aide d'une spatule (spudger), débranchez le connecteur du bouton de mise sous tension de sa prise sur la carte mère.

    Can someone explain what are the solder joint? Or tell me what it looks it?

    brianyu - Réponse

    The silver spots on the circuit boards. You may not want to tackle this alone. If you touch these areas, you can possible get a shock -- harming you and your computer.

    Robert -

    there is no need to disconnect the speaker, just unscrew it and move aside slightly to reach the HDD screws (about 5mm) - if you want to replace just the main HDD

    Thomas Webb - Réponse

    Take note of exactly what direction this tiny little wire was.

    Joseph Ashe - Réponse

    The connector has a plain black side and the other side you can see the 2 silver connectors.. the side you can see the 2 silver connectors faces the front.. the plain side is to the back/against the logic board.

    paul.lynch1 -

    If I leave my iMac unplugged for an extended period, say 24 or 48 hours, is it still possible to get an electric shock from the PSU? Do the capacitors eventually discharge?

    Dominic Pettifer - Réponse

    you can do this method, or just wear latex gloves.

    Philip Sedlmair -

    make sure you’ve actually unplugged the mac when running this cable, and not had it plugged in to test the diagnostic LEDs, because one of those wee silver spots is carrying 230v, and its 6mm away from the place the cable runs, So if you have fat fingers like mine, that’s a free wake up zap

    flow in - Réponse

  28. Remplacement du câble SATA de l'iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546: étape 28, image 1 de 2 Remplacement du câble SATA de l'iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546: étape 28, image 2 de 2
    • Soulevez le haut-parleur gauche en le tenant droit jusqu'à ce que le câble du bouton de mise sous tension soit visible (environ 1,3 cm).

    This is MUCH easier to do if the support bracket along the bottom is removed first. See Changement carte mère iMac Intel 21,5" écran Retina 4K (2017) step 25.

    Use a P00.

    To replace it, introduce it like in the photo at the link to be able to hold the right most holes of the chassis and bracket. Replace the first screw, align the bracket to the horizontal and add the screws from right to left. Each one will bring up the next hole in the bracket close enough to screw through. Reverse those directions if you are a leftie.

    Andrew Gough - Réponse

  29. Remplacement du câble SATA de l'iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546: étape 29, image 1 de 3 Remplacement du câble SATA de l'iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546: étape 29, image 2 de 3 Remplacement du câble SATA de l'iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546: étape 29, image 3 de 3
    • Sortez doucement le câble du bouton de mise sous tension de sa rainure dans le haut-parleur gauche.

    Pay attention: if pulling out the loudspeaker tear off the wire of the power button, Apple have not any service parts except for the whole rear housing!

    Fabio Braga - Réponse

    This is MUCH easier to do if the support bracket along the bottom is removed first. See Changement carte mère iMac Intel 21,5" écran Retina 4K (2017) step 25.

    Use a P00.

    To replace it, introduce it like in the photo at the link to be able to hold the right most holes of the chassis and bracket. Replace the first screw, align the bracket to the horizontal and add the screws from right to left. Each one will bring up the next hole in the bracket close enough to screw through. Reverse those directions if you are a leftie.

    Andrew Gough - Réponse

  30. Remplacement du câble SATA de l'iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546: étape 30, image 1 de 3 Remplacement du câble SATA de l'iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546: étape 30, image 2 de 3 Remplacement du câble SATA de l'iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546: étape 30, image 3 de 3
    • Soulevez le haut-parleur droit en le tenant bien droit et sortez-le de l'iMac.

    • Si l'espace entre le disque dur et la carte mère était trop étroit pour détacher le câble du haut-parleur plus tôt, tirez-le doucement pendant que vous retirez le haut-parleur.

    • Appuyez sur l'extrémité du connecteur tout en tirant sur l'extrémité du haut-parleur, pour faire passer le câble sous le support droit du disque dur.

    I found it wasn't necessary to remove the speaker from the left side to remove the hard drive. You can remove the screws, and then slide it over to the left — giving more than enough room to access the hard drive.

    Robert - Réponse

    me too. don't need to remove it if you only want to change the hd

    Alber Einsten -

    Agreed, wast of time to fully remove the speaker.

    Matthew Gonzalez -

    It is difficult to remove the bottom of the speaker because it bends into the frame. Be careful to remove the power button cable, which also routes in a channel in the bottom of the speaker.

    Eric - Réponse

    easier to remove the speakers if you unscrew the front ‘chin strap’ - 6/9 phillips screws that you can see in the picture hold that aluminum piece in place

    flow in - Réponse

    Agree. This is MUCH easier to do if the support bracket along the bottom is removed first. See Changement carte mère iMac Intel 21,5" écran Retina 4K (2017) step 25.

    Use a P00.

    To replace it, introduce it like in the photo at the link to be able to hold the right most holes of the chassis and bracket. Replace the first screw, align the bracket to the horizontal and add the screws from right to left. Each one will bring up the next hole in the bracket close enough to screw through. Reverse those directions if you are a leftie.

    Andrew Gough -

    The trick with removing the left speaker is that you have to slide it up toward the top of the iMac (continuing to de-route the power button cable carefully as you go) to get it out from under the chin before you lift it up to remove it.

    ace - Réponse

  31. Remplacement du câble SATA de l'iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546, Disque dur: étape 31, image 1 de 2 Remplacement du câble SATA de l'iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546, Disque dur: étape 31, image 2 de 2
    • Tirez le câble de données/alimentation SATA vers le haut pour le débrancher du disque dur.

    Is the WD hard drive an Apple Special with some internal rom or other thing? Planning to put in a Seagate Firecuda 2TB. Is there some special plug or temperature sensor requirement? Seems like there is only the SATA connector. Will I encounter fast fans? (can load the software to stop that). Think it’s a swap and is “easy”.

    Carl Schultz - Réponse

  32. Remplacement du câble SATA de l'iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546: étape 32, image 1 de 1
    • Retirez les deux vis T10 7,3 mm par lesquelles le support gauche du disque dur est fixé au boîtier arrière.

    If you have the iMac sitting upright, there is a potential risk of dropping the screws into the iMac casing. Be cautious or lay it down flat.

    Robert - Réponse

    Been there done that. Had to flip it and shake the heck out of it to get that srew to fall out!

    webmail54 - Réponse

    Left hard drive bracket screws are T8!! Had to remove HD first before derouting left speaker cable.

    Macrepair SF - Réponse

    Thank you iFixit for sending a T10 with magnetic tip. You saved me!

    Ben Hannam - Réponse

    The bracket screws are T10. The screws on the left side of the SILVER hard drive itself, are T8. If you seem to need a T8, you are actually trying to remove the wrong two screws. Look immediately to the left of the hard drive & you will see the BLACK bracket frame with two screws that use T10.

    jumpoverpuddles - Réponse

    I can confirm that some models are indeed a T8 on both sides of the bracket (NOT the drive itself). I have two 2015 A1419 and one is T10, the other T8

    Christopher Crogan -

    Bracket to iMac case screws,T8.

    Which is fine.

    Just as in the next step, T8 or T10.

    Mike Rehbein - Réponse

  33. Remplacement du câble SATA de l'iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546: étape 33, image 1 de 3 Remplacement du câble SATA de l'iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546: étape 33, image 2 de 3 Remplacement du câble SATA de l'iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546: étape 33, image 3 de 3
    • Saisissez le disque dur avec le support gauche du disque dur.

    • Inclinez le côté gauche vers le haut en l'écartant du boîtier arrière et faites glisser l'ensemble vers la gauche.

    • Retirez le disque dur et le support gauche du disque dur de l'iMac.

    Two notes here:  If you are using OWC’s Thermal Sensor HDD Upgrade Cable, be sure to tuck the cable under the hard drive slightly.  You cannot allow the connector to sit near the top edge since this will not allow the monitor to sit flush with the chassis when it is reattached.  Additionally, the SATA connector does not seem to fit together as snuggly as when it was connect to the HDD, so tape or a plastic cable tie to keep the connection tight may be good insurance to prevent it from coming loose.

    If you are planning on dual booting with Windows 10, the Windows 10 installed failed when the SSD and HDD were both connected at the same time.  I had to disconnect the HDD until Windows 10 was installed.  Note: I did a fresh install on a new SSD not configured as a fusion drive.  If you are planning on doing this as well, use packing tape (or something similar) to hold the monitor in place until after installing the OSs.  Then reconnect the HDD and apply the adhesive to the monitor for a permanent seal.  Good Luck!

    Walter Hayden - Réponse

    Hi Walter, i’m looking to replace the broken fusion drive with a SSD, do i have to get the OWC’s Thermal Sensor HDD Upgrade Cable?

    Gregorio Alvarado Sahli -

    Full removal of the speaker is unnecessary - just very carefully unplug the two-conductor power button cable, which is routed through the groove along the edge of the speaker enclosure. Next, unfasten the two large torx screws holding the speaker enclosure to the chassis. Now you can easily scoot the speaker away from the drive mount - move it over just enough to reach the drive mount’s 2 torx fasteners beneath the edge of the speaker (a CM or two). There’s now enough room to easily remove and replace the drive assembly .

    clinton - Réponse

    Just wondering if the HDD 3.5 (3TB) in my 2015 27’ 5K iMac case are the ones with the temp control firmware onboard. Just got quote from Auhorised repair centre for 2x the normal price of a 3TB drive. They say I can drop in one i source myself if I like but I don’t want to get it back and have the fans run all the time. Thanks in advance :)

    Declan Casey - Réponse

  34. Remplacement du câble SATA de l'iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546: étape 34, image 1 de 2 Remplacement du câble SATA de l'iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546: étape 34, image 2 de 2
    • Retirez le support gauche du disque dur.

    This step is unnecessary. Just leave the bracket in place and set the assembly aside.

    Anthony Zimmerman - Réponse

    On Late 2015 27” iMac I found that after removing this speaker, and the Right side one, I could reach under the motherboard and squeeze and disconnect the SATA data connector with a needle-nose and then remove the SATA power connector and slide the cable out from under the logic board without removing the board. The new cable slid in from the hard drive side with little effort.

    chuck solie - Réponse

    If switching to an SSD, the posts on the drive can be removed and used on the 2.5” to 3.5” adapter tray.

    Andrew Gough - Réponse

  35. Remplacement du câble SATA de l'iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546, Retirer le bloc d'alimentation: étape 35, image 1 de 2 Remplacement du câble SATA de l'iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546, Retirer le bloc d'alimentation: étape 35, image 2 de 2
    • Lorsque vous manipulez le bloc d'alimentation, veillez à ne toucher ni les pattes des condensateurs ni les brasages exposés à l'arrière du bloc d'alimentation. Tenez-le toujours par les côtés.

    • Débranchez la nappe de commande de l'alimentation du bloc d'alimentation.

    I found this cable very difficult to disconnect, be very careful because the cable is between a black tape and it's stuck very hard to the logic board and the cable is very short and you don't have space to move and separate it from the connection! Be patient and take the time you need

    MrSchaeffer - Réponse

    I found than putting the flat end of the spudger at the center of the cable, and tilting it got the cable out without an issue.

    jimboom006 - Réponse

    I was able to use the flat end of the spudger on the sides. You can see a tiny little clip on each side. Be very gentle!

    Joseph Ashe - Réponse

    I simultaneously used the fingernails on my 2 index fingers to dislodge the tabs and continue to pull the cable out. It took a couple seconds.

    Eric - Réponse

    ultimately the trick for me was to just pull hard enough, but that part is the scariest part. any tips welcome

    Boris - Réponse

    These connectors seem pretty tough to remove until one understands the latch. Each side of the plug are two little sprung tabs (the tab is part of the spring clip which runs down the side of the plug on each side - makes sense once you see the removed plug!). Squeeze them in towards each other and then gently pull the plug from the socket. No great force, or even the spudger, needed once that is done.

    Pete Mackenzie - Réponse

    One more tip, has worked on other cables for me. Fish the skinniest spudger tip you have under the cable, and with a finger of your other hand put opposite pressure on the cable against the spudger and gently work it out

    Mike Fleming - Réponse

    If u are right handed, i can recomend to use your index left nail to press de bottom sprung, and a flat spudger on the right hand, came off so easy

    Davo Montiel - Réponse

    Davo Montiel's tip worked for me. Use the fingernail on your left index finger to press in the tab on the bottom side of the connector and with the right hand use a flat spudger to press in the tab on the top side of the connector.

    Dan Smith - Réponse

    If you have a insulated long nose pliers along with a splugger and can get underneath the cable WITH the long nose pliers on the RIGHT side of the cable, towards the logic board, with the splugger on the LEFT Side of the cable doing the same, you can get the leverage to GENTLY pull this cable out very easily.

    George Martinez - Réponse

  36. Remplacement du câble SATA de l'iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546: étape 36, image 1 de 1
    • Retirez les quatre vis suivantes (T8 ou T10 suivant le modèle exact de votre iMac) par lesquelles le bloc d'alimentation est fixée au boîtier arrière :

    • Deux vis de 23,7 mm

    • Deux vis de 7,3 mm

  37. Remplacement du câble SATA de l'iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546: étape 37, image 1 de 3 Remplacement du câble SATA de l'iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546: étape 37, image 2 de 3 Remplacement du câble SATA de l'iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546: étape 37, image 3 de 3
    • N'essayez pas de retirer complètement le bloc d'alimentation du boîtier, car il est encore relié à la carte mère par deux câbles.

    • Déplacez le bloc d'alimentation vers le bord gauche du boîtier et vers le haut pour le libérer de l'encoche dans la carte mère.

    This is MUCH easier to do if the support bracket along the bottom is removed first. See Changement carte mère iMac Intel 21,5" écran Retina 4K (2017) step 25.

    Use a P00.

    To replace it, introduce it like in the photo at the link to be able to hold the right most holes of the chassis and bracket. Replace the first screw, align the bracket to the horizontal and add the screws from right to left. Each one will bring up the next hole in the bracket close enough to screw through. Reverse those directions if you are a leftie.

    Andrew Gough - Réponse

    The top right screw on the power supply actually screws into a stand-off screw connected to the back of the iMac case. Once you have removed the 4 x Torx 8 or 10 screws you can move the power supply enough to see the upper face of it.

    It has a Torx 25 slot in it and comes out easily. This will give you a lot more room for your fingers in Step 40, depressing the tab on the DC power cable connector to pull it out, and when replacing it on reassembly. You may find it won’t require you removing the support bracket as in the suggestion above.

    John Blagden - Réponse

  38. Remplacement du câble SATA de l'iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546: étape 38, image 1 de 2 Remplacement du câble SATA de l'iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546: étape 38, image 2 de 2
    • Appuyez sur la languette sur le connecteur du câble d'alimentation CC, puis tirez-le tout droit hors de sa prise au dos de la carte mère.

    • Si le câble est trop difficile à déconnecter, vous pouvez retirer l'alimentation et la carte mère d'un bloc.

    Remember to push in the disconnect tab on the large connector. Carefully insert your finger and push on the tab before you pull on the connector.

    Manuel Collazo - Réponse

    Thank you Manuel, this was a tricky one.

    David Zemsky - Réponse

    Yes, I pulled the whole socket out because I didn’t know about the tab. Fortunately I was able to place it back in. Not sure if it was glued or how it was anchored but it seems to have a solid connection and I can’t easily pull it out by hand. Once I plug the power cable back in should be ok.

    P. Hisada - Réponse

    This connector was very difficult for me to remove (even after pushing the disconnect tab). Eventually I had to use a pair of needle nose pliers to wiggle it back and forth out of the socket. A lot of the cables on the my late 2015 model were very tight and a struggle to get out.

    Anthony Zimmerman - Réponse

    I'm struggling with this step. I presume that the tab to which you are referring is behind the connector. I can see a plastic protrusion there but it does not move when I push it. Just to get my finger behind it requires the power board to be moved quite a bit btw.

    Dave Sands - Réponse

    Pressing on the release on the back with my finger and at the same time using a needle nose pliers to wiggle the connector with my other hand worked for me.

    Kimbo M - Réponse

    i could not get it out by the force of my fingers, so what i did was slightly turn the imac 90 degrees so i could reach the area better, push up (so, vertically) the power control board, push in the tab on the bottom of the connector with my right hand, and slightly wiggle the connector out of its socket with a plier

    Boris - Réponse

    removing the chin strap (the front bit of metal running along the bottom of where the screen was) makes this much easier as you can rotate the board and get to the underside

    flow in - Réponse

    Left index finger pushing on the tab from behind the connector, using needle pliers in right hand to rock up & down did the trick thanks @starfleet_tone

    Frédérick Charette - Réponse

    Just be careful! I’ve seen two systems where the socket was pulled fully off! So the logic board then needs repairs or replacing being just a bit too aggressive!

    Dan -

    Needle nose and wiggling worked for us too. We were stuggling like heck with it when just using hands!

    Mike Manasewitsch - Réponse

    This is MUCH easier to do if the support bracket along the bottom is removed first - more space to angle the board upwards. See Changement carte mère iMac Intel 21,5" écran Retina 4K (2017) step 25.

    Use a P00.

    To replace it, introduce it like in the photo at the link to be able to hold the right most holes of the chassis and bracket. Replace the first screw, align the bracket to the horizontal and add the screws from right to left. Each one will bring up the next hole in the bracket close enough to screw through. Reverse those directions if you are a leftie.

    Andrew Gough - Réponse

    I did as Andrew Gough did, per other videos reviewed. Removed it right away. Just makes things easier, more space for just a few screws :)

    Mike Rehbein - Réponse

    The top right screw on the power supply actually screws into a stand-off screw connected to the back of the iMac case. Once you have removed the 4 x Torx 8 or 10 screws you can move the power supply enough to see the upper face of it.

    It has a Torx 25 slot in it and comes out easily. This will give you a lot more room for your fingers in Step 40, depressing the tab on the DC power cable connector to pull it out, and when replacing it on reassembly. You may find it won’t require you removing the support bracket as in the suggestion above.

    John Blagden - Réponse

    I used your suggestion to remove the stand-off and then used my left hand index finger to press the tab while rocking the connector side to side with a needle nose pliers. Plug came out easily.

    Dan Smith -

    The tab is a pain in the a$$$ to get your finger in there. I was so horrified at the size of the capacitors that I put on gloves to reduce any amount of shock :-) . To get it loose I would pull out carefully the power board as far as I could than I wedge my index finger under and press the tab and slowly pull until I saw a slight gap between the end of the socket and the plug. I than place the flat part of the black spudger or blue one into the gap and use as it as a wedge to help move the plug forward as I kept the tab pressed.

    Andrew Phillips - Réponse

  39. Remplacement du câble SATA de l'iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546: étape 39, image 1 de 3 Remplacement du câble SATA de l'iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546: étape 39, image 2 de 3 Remplacement du câble SATA de l'iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546: étape 39, image 3 de 3
    • Veillez à ne toucher ni les pattes des condensateurs ni les brasages exposés à l'arrière du bloc d'alimentation. Tenez-le toujours par les côtés.

    • Basculez le haut du bloc d'alimentation vers vous, comme pour ouvrir une boîte aux lettres, afin d'accéder au connecteur du câble de la prise CA.

    • Débranchez le connecteur du câble de la prise CA.

    To reassemble, do the same in reverse but keep power supply board more upright than slanted down when re-inserting it in to the lower right corner. The lower right screw post has an protrusion under/behind it and the Power Supply's small 2 wire plug must fit between the front of your Mac and the obstruction. Then it just slides right in and then screw it down.

    Dan H - Réponse

    There is a small release tab on the cable.

    Eric - Réponse

    Wear gloves when doing this to reduce any shock. The size of those capacitors are very unnerving and scary. Also those solder joints.

    Andrew Phillips - Réponse

  40. Remplacement du câble SATA de l'iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546, Haut-parleur droit: étape 40, image 1 de 1
    • Retirez les deux vis T10 de 10 mm.

  41. Remplacement du câble SATA de l'iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546: étape 41, image 1 de 2 Remplacement du câble SATA de l'iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546: étape 41, image 2 de 2
    • Déplacez légèrement le haut-parleur droit vers la droite pour pouvoir accéder à la prise à laquelle son câble est raccordé sur la carte mère.

  42. Remplacement du câble SATA de l'iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546: étape 42, image 1 de 3 Remplacement du câble SATA de l'iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546: étape 42, image 2 de 3 Remplacement du câble SATA de l'iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546: étape 42, image 3 de 3
    • À l'aide d'une spatule, dégagez le connecteur du bouton de mise sous tension de sa prise sur la carte mère.

    • Tirez le connecteur vers la droite pour le débrancher de sa prise.

  43. Remplacement du câble SATA de l'iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546: étape 43, image 1 de 3 Remplacement du câble SATA de l'iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546: étape 43, image 2 de 3 Remplacement du câble SATA de l'iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546: étape 43, image 3 de 3
    • Soulevez le haut-parleur en le tenant bien droit et sortez-le de l'iMac.

    Did this tonight. I couldn’t get the right speaker out. But I was able to move it far enough to the right to be out of the way of the logic board.

    Kenneth Cluff - Réponse

    You have to remove the five small screws on the lower edge of the iMac to remove a strange bracket or something, like the 21.5” 2012->… iMacs

    Federico Barutto -

    Same here. 2013 27”. If you remove two of the tiny screws along the bottom edge then it comes out.

    Dave Sands -

    This is MUCH easier to do if the support bracket along the bottom is removed first. See Changement carte mère iMac Intel 21,5" écran Retina 4K (2017) step 25.

    Use a P00.

    To replace it, introduce it like in the photo at the link to be able to hold the right most holes of the chassis and bracket. Replace the first screw, align the bracket to the horizontal and add the screws from right to left. Each one will bring up the next hole in the bracket close enough to screw through. Reverse those directions if you are a leftie.

    Andrew Gough -

    During reassemble, route the speaker cable behind the two protrusions under the logic board. I am not sure if this makes a huge difference but that’s was the configuration during disassembly.

    Joe - Réponse

    As with the left speaker, you need to slide the speaker toward the top of the iMac to get it out from under the chin before lifting up.

    ace - Réponse

    For reassembly I had to undo the screws again, then plug in the cable with the speaker module slightly out of its final position and after that insert the module and fasten the screws.

    Stefan - Réponse

  44. Remplacement du câble SATA de l'iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546, Enlever le ventilateur: étape 44, image 1 de 3 Remplacement du câble SATA de l'iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546, Enlever le ventilateur: étape 44, image 2 de 3 Remplacement du câble SATA de l'iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546, Enlever le ventilateur: étape 44, image 3 de 3
    • À l'aide de l'extrémité plate d'une spatule, débranchez le connecteur du câble du ventilateur de sa prise sur la carte mère.

  45. Remplacement du câble SATA de l'iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546: étape 45, image 1 de 2 Remplacement du câble SATA de l'iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546: étape 45, image 2 de 2
    • Décollez légèrement le morceau de bande adhésive noire qui relie le ventilateur au conduit d'évacuation.

    • Laissez l'adhésif en place sur le conduit d'évacuation ; il suffit de le décoller au niveau de la jointure pour détacher le ventilateur.

  46. Remplacement du câble SATA de l'iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546: étape 46, image 1 de 1
    • Retirez les trois vis T10 de 12,4 mm par lesquelles le ventilateur est fixé au boîtier arrière.

  47. Remplacement du câble SATA de l'iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546: étape 47, image 1 de 2 Remplacement du câble SATA de l'iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546: étape 47, image 2 de 2
    • Retirez le ventilateur de l'iMac.

    Use a piece of tape around the antenna cables to keep them in the same order, makes reassembly a little easier.

    Walter Hayden - Réponse

    On reassembly, start the fan power connector into its socket while you slide the fan in.

    ebay - Réponse

    I left the antennas attached to the wifi card and removed the wifi card with wires attached. I accidentally broke one of the connectors on the wifi card and had to replace the entire card....

    S. Baxter - Réponse

  48. Remplacement du câble SATA de l'iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546, Carte mère: étape 48, image 1 de 3 Remplacement du câble SATA de l'iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546, Carte mère: étape 48, image 2 de 3 Remplacement du câble SATA de l'iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546, Carte mère: étape 48, image 3 de 3
    • À l'aide de l'extrémité plate d'une spatule, débranchez les quatre connecteurs d'antenne de la carte AirPort/Bluetooth.

    • Repérez la position initiale de chaque connecteur. Vous en aurez besoin pour rebrancher les câbles. En allant de la gauche vers la droite, les antennes sont raccordées à la carte dans l'ordre suivant :

    • Gauche

    • Supérieure

    • Supérieure droite

    • Inférieure droite

    My iMac has a slightly different assembly. There are 2 - T5 torx screws holding little clamps for each cable (2 clamps per screw). Certainly more secure but another size screw to deal with…

    Greg Freeman - Réponse

    My iMac also same with Greg mentioned. need to T5 torx driver. A1419. Late 2015, Korean Version.

    Joseph Yang - Réponse

    My 2017 has long WI-Fi card, It’s It’s a M.2, cuz no remove antenna. Undo WI-Fi card fix screws and pull out card. Easy one.

    Tanya Chachanova - Réponse

    Before I disconnect the cables, I use different color sharpies and draw a different color on each one’s head & then I take a picture of the cables connected to the board. Pic is my reference of which cable goes to what connector.

    Macrepair SF - Réponse

    I have a 2017 and I agree with Tanya. There are 2 T4 screws fastening the airport card to the motherboard. It’s easier to remove these and gently pull the airport card straight up out of the motherboard while leaving the 4 antenna wires fastened. You can’t see the connector or the airport card as it’s on the back side of the motherboard but just wiggle it side to side while pulling straight up and you’ll have no problem. I’ve broken off those tiny airport connectors in the past and it’s no fun replacing them.

    Mike Jones - Réponse

    same as Greg, did with the torx t5

    Alejandro Piris Nino - Réponse

    I have a 2019 iMac and we needed to use a T4 screw

    Mike Manasewitsch - Réponse

    My late 2015 has a Airport/Bluetooth card secured with two T5 screws. After removing them you can just wiggle and unplug it from the logic board, without needing to fiddle with the antenna connectors.

    Robin Gottschalk - Réponse

    Same as the other comments, in my iMac 27” retina 2015, the WiFi/Bluetooth board is a bit longer and the 4 coax cables are fixed by 2 T5 screws…

    SURIN Dominique - Réponse

    When reassembling a removed WiFi card keep 4 antenna leads attached as mentioned by poster (tanya et al) when reassembling as you replace logic board keeping it tilted forward helps in aligning the notch on card for easy reassembly and T3 screws replacingonce card is firmly seated.

    robert - Réponse

    When reassembling a removed WiFi card keep 4 antenna leads attached as mentioned by poster (tanya et al) when reassembling as you replace logic board keeping it tilted forward helps in aligning the notch on card for easy reassembly and T3 screws replacingonce card is firmly seated.

    robert - Réponse

    Can also confirm it for a Late 2015 iMac, there’s just 2 T3 screws to remove, simple move out the WiFi/Bluetooth board and let cable on place.

    tomax - Réponse

  49. Remplacement du câble SATA de l'iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546: étape 49, image 1 de 3 Remplacement du câble SATA de l'iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546: étape 49, image 2 de 3 Remplacement du câble SATA de l'iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546: étape 49, image 3 de 3
    • Cette connexion est fragile et peut être facilement endommagée.

    • Basculez le support de fixation métallique de la nappe vidéo iSight vers le haut.

    • Faites glisser le connecteur de la nappe vidéo hors de sa prise, vers le haut de l'iMac.

    During disassembly, I taped the cable up and out of the way, as it tends to get in front of things.

    Tony Ross - Réponse

    I recall comments here about this being particularly sensitive. I had an issue with no iSight on rebuild, however taking to bits again and seating and reseating this connector a few times resulted in the iSight camera working again (phew).

    Amuseme - Réponse

  50. Remplacement du câble SATA de l'iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546: étape 50, image 1 de 3 Remplacement du câble SATA de l'iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546: étape 50, image 2 de 3 Remplacement du câble SATA de l'iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546: étape 50, image 3 de 3
    • À l'aide de l'extrémité plate d'une spatule, faites levier sur le connecteur de la nappe de la prise jack pour la débrancher de sa prise sur la carte mère.

    • Poussez doucement la nappe pour qu'elle ne gêne pas l'accès.

    On my 2017 iMac there is a tiny little cable and connector on the motherboard that is approximately half way along the motherboard and is connected down towards the base of the case. It came free easily when I removed my motherboard but just wanted to remind people to reconnect!

    Stuart Swaffer - Réponse

    It’s the microphone cable!

    Koen van Eijk - Réponse

    This pulls straight up, towards you.

    Eric - Réponse

    I broke mine…when inserted the speaker… How do I replace the headphone jack and cable?

    mmx2000 - Réponse

    Lift upwards with the spudger/fingernail, rocking it up back and forth.

    (For those who have not seen this style of connector.)

    Mike Rehbein - Réponse

    +1 Missing the step on this 2019 iMac 27” guide to remove mic cable. It’s in other guides, just not here.

    joe - Réponse

    I cannot determine how to reconnect the headphone jack cable to the logic board. Are there better pictures anywhere that I could access?

    Ron Owens - Réponse

  51. Remplacement du câble SATA de l'iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546: étape 51, image 1 de 2 Remplacement du câble SATA de l'iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546: étape 51, image 2 de 2
    • Retirez les vis suivantes de la carte mère :

    • Deux vis T10 de 23,7 mm

    • Quatre vis T10 de 7,4 mm

    • Une vis d'entretoise T25 de 20,8 mm

    • Une vis T10 captive

    • Cette vis se trouve en dessous d'un trou dans la carte mère. Vous aurez besoin d'un tournevis adapté ou de l'extension de 60 mm d'un kit de tournevis iFixit pour l'atteindre.

    The central screw is very difficult to reach! Use a long and very thin T10 screw driver

    MrSchaeffer - Réponse

    On my late 2015 there is another T10 (approx 16 mm long) on the lower edge slightly left of the hole in the logic board giving a total of 4 screws along the bottom edge.

    Konrad Skeri Ekblad - Réponse

    I’ve also found an extra T10 in my late 2015 iMac

    luis - Réponse

    My 2017 has small flat cable and connector on logic board. And all screws are changed to T 9

    Tanya Chachanova - Réponse

    Note: the T25 spacer is behind and to the left of the logic board and below the HDD bracket.

    Tom - Réponse

    My 2017 had all T8’s, including the captive screw beneath the motherboard

    Mike Jones - Réponse

    My 2017 had 4 T8 screws along the bottom of the logic board, not 3

    greg - Réponse

    Late 2015 iMac - mine had all T8 screws and 4 along the bottom row

    Pete Mackenzie - Réponse

    On 2019 iMac

    Red = T8

    Orange = T8

    Green = T8

    Yellow = T25

    Mike Manasewitsch - Réponse

    In 2017 too.

    Andrew Gough -

    2017 here.

    IMPORTANT - note Tanya’s comment. The narrow flat cable in the middle - it’s the mic cable on a *tiny* ZIF. See Changement carte mère iMac Intel 21,5" écran Retina 4K (2017)

    Also has the extra bolt middle lower edge.

    All T8 except the yellow T25.

    Andrew Gough - Réponse

    In my iMac 27” retina 2015 all screws are T8.

    There is also an another T8 screw between the left and central “orange” on bottom of the CPU board

    SURIN Dominique - Réponse

    Just completed and removed logic board. All my screws were T6. The screw beneath is a captive screw, stays retained in the fixture after unscrewing.

    Keith Thomas - Réponse

    If I change the logic card on an imac 27’ 2020, will the computer's memory be affected?

    nizarishi - Réponse

    There is a 25T stand off that is not listed. It is not on the board but beside or underneath the yellow/red on power supply side.

    Tom Gordon - Réponse

  52. Remplacement du câble SATA de l'iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546: étape 52, image 1 de 3 Remplacement du câble SATA de l'iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546: étape 52, image 2 de 3 Remplacement du câble SATA de l'iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546: étape 52, image 3 de 3
    • Le câble SATA du disque dur ne peut pas encore être retiré, même s'il est gênant pour retirer la carte mère.

    • Tirez le câble et le connecteur à travers le support droit du disque dur. Déplacez le câble vers le côté droit de l'iMac pour l'écarter du conduit de ventilation.

    Anyone know if models that shipped with only a bladed SSD have the SATA cable still inside? I’m guessing probably not, but haven’t been able to confirm anywhere.

    Jesse Mitchell - Réponse

    The cable was so stiff, I didn’t try to pull it through the bracket. Instead I removed the upper screw holding the right HDD bracket in place. Then I rotated it counter clockwise enough to just move the cable behind it and out of the way. Once I did that, I screwed the bracket back into place. I reversed the process when I put the machine back together. It’s a Torx-10 BTW.

    Kenneth Cluff - Réponse

    Excellent tip, Kenneth! I did the same, made things easier.

    Dave Hoppenrath - Réponse

    Jesse, no SATA cable inside. My iMac came only with the blade SSD and an empty HDD bay, so I have to buy the SATA cable separately.

    mveras1972 - Réponse

    the card drive cable is affixed to the heat sink with some sort of adhesive. If it is not placed back similarly, the system cannot sense the heat sink temperature, and the fan will run at full speed continuously. I used double sided tape and pushed it back in adhered position after re-attaching logic board.

    labah - Réponse

    the above should read “the hard drive cable” , not card drive (typo)!

    labah - Réponse

  53. Remplacement du câble SATA de l'iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546: étape 53, image 1 de 1
    • Retirez deux vis T10 de 5,7 mm du dessus du conduit de ventilation du dissipateur thermique.

    My model (2015) had another screw holding the heatsink duct and a stand-off holding the whole thing attached to the back. Even gently moving the logic board almost got the duct damaged till I realised what was going on so I’d suggest to be careful and DO NOT pull the logic board if it looks like it’s still attached - most likely it is!

    Carlos Ferrari - Réponse

    Carlos,

    I am at a bit of a loss. I have a 2015 as well and removed everything else, but the motherboard is still not moving. I found the two, as shown in the picture, but can't find a third one anywhere on or around the heatsink duct. Any help is sincerely appreciated.

    Marc

    MarcW58 -

    Ditto for the 2013 27”. One extra screw

    Dave Sands - Réponse

    My model 2546 late 2012 has 2 screws on heat sink shroud. First is on left side. The right can only be accessed with board tilted out a bit.

    Michael Wright - Réponse

    I just finished disassembling a late 2017 27” Retina and for the life of me I couldn’t get the logic board to come out. What. I discovered was that there is a part of the heat sink shroud that is held in place by a stand off boss for the power supply. You will need to remove the stand off boss using a T25. Remove carefully and save for reassembly…

    David Brix - Réponse

    Same here for late 2014.

    Jamuel Starkey -

    Yes, there is a screw holding down the fan shroud it is an angled black part where the guy's left hand index finger is located in Step 56

    Carl Schultz - Réponse

  54. Remplacement du câble SATA de l'iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546: étape 54, image 1 de 3 Remplacement du câble SATA de l'iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546: étape 54, image 2 de 3 Remplacement du câble SATA de l'iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546: étape 54, image 3 de 3
    • Inclinez légèrement la carte mère vers l'avant.

    • Soulevez la carte mère en la tenant bien droit et sortez-la de l'iMac. Faites attention à ce que la carte mère ne heurte pas les montants des vis attachés au boîtier arrière.

    You should add a step about removing the sata cable here. When following the directions in reverse I forgot to put in back on and had to remove the motherboard again.

    Ken Prows - Réponse

    If you are having a hard time removing it, you might have forgot to remove the spacer rod when you removed all the motherboard screws. In my case, it was a T20.

    Eric - Réponse

    The 2017 iMac has a small cable with a ZIF connector coming from the bottom of the machine that needs to be detached from the logic board before it can be removed.

    greg - Réponse

    I can confirm this. As i recognized the cable after i removed the logic board i had some trouble to find the spot where to plug it in.

    sebastian.wittl -

    If you are having a hard time removing it, you might have forgot to remove the spacer rod when you removed all the motherboard screws. In my case, it was a T20. This is in my late 2015 the case. Just like Eric said 11-01-2020.

    John - Réponse

    Same for late 2012. For those curious the spacer is just to the left and appears to attach to the heat sink.

    skiingjoo -

    The iMac 27” didn’t come with the PCIe SSD card so of course there wasn’t the necessary screw to mount one.

    Here is the screw to order;

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/283482947478?ch...

    What I did was find a screw that fit. Happened to be the case screw from the iFixit external 2.5” case but since that was a countersunk screw, I fabricated a washer for it.

    Mike Rehbein - Réponse

  55. Remplacement du câble SATA de l'iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546: étape 55, image 1 de 2 Remplacement du câble SATA de l'iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546: étape 55, image 2 de 2
    • Lorsque vous remontez votre iMac, faites attention de bien aligner les ports extérieurs E/S. La carte mère peut être mal placée même une fois revissée.

    • Vous pouvez utiliser une clé USB ou un câble ethernet pour vous assurer que la carte mère est bien positionnée lorsque vous la fixez.

    To help me line up the IO ports, I filled all the USB ports on the back with thumb drives before I screwed the Logic board back down. Worked like a charm!

    Alex Grayson - Réponse

    Ugh! Wish I saw this before. I did this mod and failed to do this step and now only one Thunderbolt 3 port works at a time and the SD card has to get pushed way further to get it to read. I hate taking this thing apart!

    scolvin - Réponse

    iMac (Retina 5K, 27-inch, 2017) の場合、Thunderbolt 3(USB-C)ポートの位置がシビアです。

    Ethernet、USB 3ポート、Thunderbolt 3(USB-C)へ最低でも各1本(合計3本)を差し込んだままの状態でロジックボードのネジを閉めるようにすることを強くおすすめします。

    EthernetケーブルとUSBメモリの2本を挿して調整し組み上げましたが、最終的にThunderbolt 3(USB-C)が刺さらないことが後で判明し、結果組み直しをしなくてはいけませんでした。

    For iMac (Retina 5K, 27-inch, 2017), the location of the Thunderbolt 3 (USB-C) port is severe.

    It is highly recommended to close the logic board screws with at least one cable each (total of three) plugged into the Ethernet, USB 3 port, and Thunderbolt 3 (USB-C).

    I plugged in two Ethernet cables and a USB memory stick, adjusted and assembled the board, but in the end I found out later that the Thunderbolt 3 (USB-C) would not stick, so I had to reassemble the board.

    Translated with www.DeepL.com/Translator (free version)

    JapanWolf - Réponse

    貴重な情報ありがとうございました!

    Midori Doi -

    I do this job fairly frequently and I have a small box in my iMac tool kit containing a headphone jack, four USB drives, a short two-ended Thunderbolt cable and the end of a red moulded Ethernet cable to keep things aligned from the back when screwing the logic board back into place.

    I loosely screw all the screws in, then tighten them gradually, going round the board several times to make sure it lands in exactly the right position.

    John Blagden - Réponse

  56. Remplacement du câble SATA de l'iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546, Câble SATA: étape 56, image 1 de 3 Remplacement du câble SATA de l'iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546, Câble SATA: étape 56, image 2 de 3 Remplacement du câble SATA de l'iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546, Câble SATA: étape 56, image 3 de 3
    • Tirez le connecteur du câble d'alimentation SATA vers le haut pour le débrancher.

    • Débranchez le connecteur du câble de données SATA en appuyant sur sa languette de verrouillage puis en le soulevant tout droit vers le haut.

    • Retirez le câble SATA de l'ensemble carte mère pour qu'il ne vous gêne pas et pour qu'il ne soit pas endommagé.

    Where is this cable sold

    mert - Réponse

    Is this picture correct with 7 pins? Or is it form the 5k version? (See comments on that case below).

    There is an cable on eBay with 5 pins.

    Steve Nilsen - Réponse

    This guide was written the year before the 5K model first came out. The cable in the photo is definitely for the model listed, although it’s always possible Apple made more than one variation.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    Hey, if you got this far and your iMac is getting along in years, maybe pick up a BR2032 battery and replace the PRAM battery while you’re at it, as you have to get to this point to access it.

    Tom - Réponse

    I'm waiting on the battery now! I have a CR2032 in the house, but I looked them up, and they're too different to make me comfortable using one. And I accidentally ordered the BR3032, AAAGH. Sigh. Stupid Amazon put them side by side, and I clicked on the wrong one. :) Must've been Amazon's fault. :) But for sure, I was looking at my computer in pieces, and I looked at that battery, and I thought, wait, when was this thing built? 2017? Um. Might be time for a change.

    Patrick Vickers -

    Tom, great tip on the battery. I put a new one in my 3½ year old iMac.

    Dave Hoppenrath - Réponse

    Could have used a warning that this cable is not present in models that shipped with a SSD. I was replacing my blade SSD and adding a new SSD at the same time, only to find that I was missing this cable while my iMac was in pieces. Had to reassemble it without adding the SATA SSD, major hassle.

    Matt Stamm - Réponse

    This is a bit of a grey space.

    Clearly you don’t need the cable if you are replacing the HDD or switching it out of a SSD. Its only when you are enhancing your system by adding a drive which you didn’t have before.

    Dan -

    Hello congratulations on your ssd blade upgrade. Have you used the owc blade or a samsung + adaptor? Regarding the cable, do you know if we can buy the cable and plug it into the logic bard so to add another ssd in the aluminum frame ? thanks a lot have a niceday

    Patrick -

    @patrick7508 - I encourage you to stick with a pin-compatible drive not use a M.2 adapter as they are not reliable and some drives are not compatible. Stick with a real Apple drive or OWC. Just think of the work you needed to do just to get to the drive.

    Dan -

Conclusion

Pour remonter votre appareil, suivez ces instructions dans le sens inverse et consultez notre tutoriel pour fixer l'écran avec des bandes adhésives.

Déposez vos déchets électroniques dans un centre de recyclage certifié.

La réparation ne s’est pas déroulée comme prévu ? Consultez nos conseils basiques de diagnostic ou notre Forum pour obtenir de l’aide.

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5 commentaires

where the !@#$ could this damned cable be purchased?

Kaellar - Réponse

Did you ever find it? I agree with the "!@#$ "

dreamserumprod -

hi

can you tell me what is the part number of the cable please, i need one cable in order to add the second drive in ssd

rovipq - Réponse

Hi Rovipq,

I found out that the part number for the cable is: Apple No. 923-00092 for an iMac 5k late 2014 with internal SSD Drive only (No Fusion Drive!).

The cable was a while available at iFixit but I actually it's out of stock. This is really a !&&* of a work and I don't know if I can manage it so easily... Maybe I will go for the external SSD via USB :-)

G. M. - Réponse

There seem to be several genuine Apple cables on eBay at any given point. Late 2012 to current seems to work fine

Bigh - Réponse

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