Aller au contenu principal

Réparez vos affaires

Droit à la réparation

Pièces & Outils

Introduction

Utilisez ce tutoriel pour remplacer le châssis de votre Samsung Galaxy S6. L'unité du châssis comprend la bobine d'induction, les boutons de marche et de volume, l'objectif de la caméra et le haut-parleur.

Ce tutoriel implique l'enlèvement de la vitre arrière. Ceci détruira l'adhésif qui la tient en place. Suivez ce tutoriel pour remonter la vitre arrière.

  1. Insérez un trombone ou un outil d'éjection de carte SIM dans le trou du tiroir de la carte SIM du côté du bouton de marche du smartphone. Appuyez pour éjecter le tiroir de la carte SIM.
    • Insérez un trombone ou un outil d'éjection de carte SIM dans le trou du tiroir de la carte SIM du côté du bouton de marche du smartphone.

    • Appuyez pour éjecter le tiroir de la carte SIM.

    • Ne pas appuyer trop fort. Vous risquez d'endommager le tiroir de la carte SIM.

    It really needs to be stated at the outset that if doing this repair to replace the daughterboard, there is a high likelihood that the display will be destroyed (even if you don’t break the display, the foil backing on it will likely be destroyed rendering it unusable). The PDF version of this guide states this at the beginning, but this online version does not.

    David White - Réponse

    Done. Thanks for the tip!

    Minor editor -

  2. Retirez le tiroir de la carte SIM du smartphone.
    • Retirez le tiroir de la carte SIM du smartphone.

  3. Nous recommandons de nettoyer le micro-ondes avant de commencer. D'éventuels restes au fond risquent d'adhérer à votre iOpener. Placez l'iOpener au centre du micro-ondes.
    • Nous recommandons de nettoyer le micro-ondes avant de commencer. D'éventuels restes au fond risquent d'adhérer à votre iOpener.

    • Placez l'iOpener au centre du micro-ondes.

    • Pour les micro-ondes à plateau tournant : assurez-vous que le plateau tourne bien. Si votre iOpener se coince, il risque de surchauffer et de brûler.

    which temperature must be used for heating? Thx

    fbarletta - Réponse

    I found you need to be very patient when using the iOpener. It's worth taking your time, giving the heat time to work on the glue. When I finally got the battery out, there were some strips of glue left behind that I just cleaned off with some isopropanol before installing the new battery.

    By the way, I had to run the iOpener for longer in my microwave for it to get hot enough. When it was too hot to touch, I figured it was hot enough for the batteries.

    Fredrik -

    I didn't find this to be as hard as I had built it up in my mind to be; HOWEVER, saying that I need to say years ago I was the local Nokia service center in my town. But many years ago right after they got rid of analog times. Yeah. A classic installer/repairer mistake when starting something they haven't fixed or installed before is picking up the instructions, flipping through them; maybe even reading a section that is new-then tossing the instructions over the shoulder. "I got this." This usually comes right before something major gets broke. And I can tell you when you try to do it yourself and then mess it up horribly then take it to the repair shop. Well we called that "I can do it myself" syndrome and charged extra to put back together what they brought in in the box. Now knowing all this - I can't stress this enough because I am stupid, stupid, stupid. COVER YOUR SCREEN IN CLEAR BOXING TAPE AND READ ALL THE INSTRUCTION BELOW THROUGH TO THE END BEFORE EVEN ATTEMPTING THIS FIX. Take my advise.

    windizy - Réponse

    I didn't have an iOpener, so I used a wheat type heat bag. If you do this though, make sure you put a layer of plastic between your Mac and the bag, or you'll get condensation in places you don't want it.

    Martin Gray - Réponse

    I started out using the iOpener but switched to my wife's hairdryer. A heat gun or hair dryer proved to be much more convenient and is a time saviour. You can heat more and the glue becomes more fluid make the next steps with the opening picks much easier

    Jan Van Puymbroeck - Réponse

    I know this is obvious, but backup your iPad with iTunes before you start. I'd also turn off your passcode if you have one.

    Laurie Higgins - Réponse

    Ther first time you heat up the iOpener for this repair when its room temperature I had to heat it up for more than 30 seconds. I remember I had to heat it up for around 45 seconds. However, after that when you need to reheat it again during the repair 30 seconds will be enough.

    Yousef Ghalib - Réponse

    Not everybody has a microwave. You need to state how long and at what temperature in a conventional oven.

    Esmond Pitt - Réponse

    My microwave just died, can i heat it with boiled water?

    Alex COLOMBANI - Réponse

    Taping as shown is impractical when using hair dryer method—tape simply comes off in the heat and gets in way of getting out the shards on the sides. If the thing wasn’t shattered, then taping unnecessary.

    B. A. Computer Services - Réponse

    I used the wheat bag in a sensor microwave heating up to 65-70 deg C (155 def F).

    ian cheong - Réponse

    Get yourself a cherry pit bean bag the size of your iPad. Heat it, put the iPad on it for 3 to 5 minutes or so, reheat the cherry pit bean bag, again put your iPad on it. Then heat the iOpener and start working. The cherry pit bean bag will have to be reheated several times, but it will soften the adhesive so you have less problems with the iOpener

    Tim Feyaerts - Réponse

    The “Galaxy S8 Replacement Battery” that you are selling with the kit is the wrong battery, the one that you are selling is a 3000mAh (which is the wrong amperage) as the OEM Samsung Galaxy S8 battery is “Model #: EB-BG892ABA / 4000mAh / Normal Voltage: 3.85V / Charge Voltage: 4.4V / A/S: 1588-3366 4000mAh 15.0Wh

    stevengenat - Réponse

    The heating can be done very effectively (and quickly) with 3d printer heated bed. Make sure the bed is clean. Set the temperature to 60c, (130f ) and put the ipad face down for +/- 10 minutes. Repeat as needed throughout the “gentle prying” stages.

    polleyphony - Réponse

    The iOpener did not work at all for me.

    I had to use a heat gun and bring the edges of the case up to ~200 degrees (used an infrared thermometer to measure) before the glue would weaken. This obviously superheated the metal frame, so I also had to wear gloves to handle the phone while prying the back off with the included picks.

    Mike Jeanette - Réponse

    Repair instructions worked like a charm. Had to be patient with the iOpener and getting the screen off. I tried repeatedly without success until shifting the suction cup a bit to the left side where perhaps the glue had loosened up a bit more.

    Kyle - Réponse

    The iOpener, in my opinion, is of no help. Many warnings to say “don’t warm it too much”, but the glue doesn’t melt if not warm enough. As a result, a complete waste of time and energy. In addition, too much liquid in it, so it doesn’t lay on the device on a sufficient surface. I took a hairdryer and it worked much much better.

    laurentvidu - Réponse

    I’ve tried for 2 days and cannot get this to work. I should have just taken it to my local iphone fixit shop. This is a frustrating purchase to say the least.

    jeffrey hill - Réponse

    Step 1 should be: now that you have looked over the tools of this repair kit, take your ipad to the nearest repair store and let them handle it. Sure you will waste about $65 by purchasing this kit and the cost of the repair but you will not tear your ipad up and you will have at least 2 days of your life that you can spend time with your family.

    jeffrey hill - Réponse

    Just replaced the battery in my iPad mini LTE. Followed the Ifix step by step instructions and they worked very well. The only thing i would change is step 42. You do not have to lift the LCD connector from the logic board. So don’t. It’s an unnecessary step. Other then that all was good. It took me about 2 1/2 hours from start to finish but I took my time and I recommend you take your time also. Very exciting too finish doing it and see it come to life afterwards. Tested everything and everything still works

    Anybody want to buy my iFix battery replacement tool kit only used once cheap?

    kaplang - Réponse

    i opener sucks! it’s incapable of heating factory glue enough to take a sealed phone apart and caused my backglass to shatter. i removed it the rest of the way with a soldering iron!

    Elijah Marvin - Réponse

    You should, at least, mention which wattage is used for the 30 seconds heating - 750 isn’t enough, obviously. Display shatterered . Thanks.

    dr_baeschtlr - Réponse

  4. Chauffez l'iOpener pendant trente secondes.
    • Chauffez l'iOpener pendant trente secondes.

    • Comme l'iOpener refroidit au cours de la réparation, rechauffez-le à nouveau au micro-ondes, mais ne dépassez pas les trente secondes à chaque fois.

    • Faites attention de ne pas surchauffer l'iOpener pendant la réparation. En cas de surchauffe, l'iOpener risque d'exploser.

    • Ne touchez jamais l'iOpener s'il vous paraît gonflé.

    • Si le milieu de l'iOpener est encore trop chaud au toucher, continuez à l'utiliser jusqu'à ce qu'il soit assez froid pour le chauffer à nouveau. Un iOpener correctement chauffé devrait rester chaud pendant environ 10 minutes.

    May I know the temperate limit about heating iOpener? (maximum 150 degrees Celsius?) thx so much.

    yamayhuang - Réponse

    I had to heat mine up for more than 30 seconds. After 30 seconds on high it was only warm. It had to keep trying different times and checking it until it got hot. I think the initial time that I put it in for was over a minute.

    whale13 - Réponse

    DO NOT USE IN NON ROTATING MICROWAVE! It will pop a hole. I had it in for 45 seconds the first time. It wasn't very hot inside and I saw it started to leak on the paper towel I put under it. Just a fair bit of advice. I think I will just stick with the heat gun. Loud but useful.

    Alex Jackson - Réponse

    I don't own a microwave.

    mdanihy - Réponse

    Its again waterproof when you change iphone 7 battery?

    Jon - Réponse

    I don't have a microwave???

    Joe Blow - Réponse

    30 sec at which equivalent watts setting and what temperature does iOpener heats up to for 30 secs. Only just bought it so needs info before using it. Thanks

    Sam Stieg - Réponse

    can i use just ordinary microwave???

    juneseok kwon - Réponse

    If I don't have a microwave then I try to use hot air gun so how many munuts i want to heat ?

    Mohideen Rifay - Réponse

    I heated mine up for 30 seconds, tested, then again for 30 seconds. It felt adequately hot. Leaving it on the left side, per the instruction, for a minute did not loosen the adhesive. I ended up pulling the suction cup hard enough to shadder the old screen. Moral of the story, I don't think it gets hot enough safely to have an affect.

    Travis Dixon - Réponse

    There is a clear problem here with the heating part using the iopener things....no details are given. Whoever is testing them needs to make it clear - What temperature does it need to be? And for which phone models, because they differ in what's needed. It's only £10-15 for a laser guided temp sensor unit, and the designers/repairers should have one of those already for doing these kinds of repairs. Explaining half a repair, is worse than not explaining at all :-(

    assortedrubbish - Réponse

    All phones/devices differ it’s unrealistic and unsafe to put a exact time/temperature needed to soften the adhesive. It’s really quite simple you warm the device evenly and in a controlled manner just enough to enable pry tools and picks to begin separating. Best tool in my opinion but again this is because I have experience is a hot plate and heat gun both of which are used at nearly the lowest settings and I can handle flat palming the plate for almost 10 seconds I leave the device to conduct heat until approx it’s about 110 at most 120 ish this will be plenty to soften all the adhesive if any problem areas I use heat gun while prying. Again you need go slowly and learn with a throw away phone

    Greg Latta -

    I used a hot water bottle, works well as it covers the whole screen and stays hot for longer.

    dave - Réponse

    If I may suggest include your microwave wattage so people can get an idea on time for there own

    Patrick Storey - Réponse

    I ended up using a hair dryer. That iOpener thing took forever.

    mark fitzgerald - Réponse

    30 seconds sure isn’t cutting it… 45 didn’t get the screen of my iPad air 2 to budge either… even after resting on the ipad for 4 minutes.

    60 seconds in the microwave, the iOpener burst.

    I’ll get a new one and try once more with heating it 45 seconds and repeat that for 30 minutes like others have said here. If that doesn’t work it’ll have to be the heat gun.

    K

    Karl Marble - Réponse

    I can’t recommend the microwave. If the the iOpener becomes too hot, it bursts. Better put the opener in cooking water. Dry it and use it. Instead of an iOpener you can use hot/cool packs as well.

    Bernhard Keim - Réponse

    Trust the directions! I forgot and left it in the Microwave too long and after 1 minute I had Mt Vesuvius - the iOpener burst and spewed the goodies out. The problem is, the Digitizer can be damaged by a hot air gun, so I had to tough out and remove the glue the hard way. I made it … with lots of patience! Tough lesson.

    Larry Bennett - Réponse

    I also used a hairdryer. I used it on the low setting and I cut a piece of carboard to protect the rest of the screen. The iFixit tool and method is vert tedious and very time consuming in comparison. With the hairdryer method you can literally have the display apart in a few minutes. Using your other hand nearby the area you are heating it should be very hot but not enough to burn your hand. You only have to heat metal part of case near glass edge. If you have a cellular model then you need to be very careful because the black antenna area is plastic. So less heat and work your way up in adding heat just enough to separate around the area but not so much you melt the plastic!

    Fixrights - Réponse

    iOpener was the worst part of the kit. Followed directions for :30 in microwave and took 4 trips to the microwave to loosen adhesive on left side of home button. I thought I was figuring it out and it was working well… even set a timer to wait 10 minutes between heating it up. Was on the right side and was on my 12th heat up when it exploded in the microwave. My only tip is that if you set it clear side up, as soon as you see any bubbles or boiling in the liquid, STOP! If you put a pot holder over the iOpener and press slightly to make good surface contact, that seemed to help. I finished heating with a “Corn Sack” that held heat better than the provided iOpener.

    digital_only - Réponse

    Mon iopener n'a pas tenu une réparation. Je ne vous conseille pas ce produit

    Berard Romain - Réponse

    Bonjour,

    Nous sommes désolés que votre réparation ne se soit pas déroulée comme prévu. Il se peut que le produit était défectueux. Veuillez contacter notre service client support@ifixit.com (boutique américaine) ou eustore@ifixit.com (boutique européenne) en décrivant ce qui s’est passé.

    Claire Rapp -

  5. Sortez l'iOpener du micro-ondes en le tenant par l'une des deux extrémités plates, car le centre de l'outil risque d'être brûlant.
    • Sortez l'iOpener du micro-ondes en le tenant par l'une des deux extrémités plates, car le centre de l'outil risque d'être brûlant.

    • L'iOpener sera très chaud, alors soyez prudent en le manipulant. Utilisez une manique si nécessaire.

    Will a hair dryer work for heating the glass?

    Me berg - Réponse

    Can you use an oven instead?

    Rafael -

    Yes, as does a heat gun.

    anonymous 4602 - Réponse

    I did this repair. I used a hair dryer, I think it works better: gets very hot fast.

    Cobus de Beer - Réponse

    microwave on WHAT WATTAGE ??? 100 W OR 1600 W ??? NOT THE SAME

    Ivor Pocrnja - Réponse

  6. Manta Precision Bit Set

    112 embouts pour toute réparation.

    Upgrade Your Toolbox

    Manta Precision Bit Set

    Upgrade Your Toolbox
  7. Ouvrir votre téléphone endommagera ses joints étanches. Procurez-vous des bandes adhésives de remplacement avant de commencer ou évitez d'exposer votre téléphone aux liquides si vous le remontez sans remplacer les bandes adhésives. Si votre vitre est brisée, recouvrez tout le panneau avec du ruban adhésif pour qu'elle se détache d'un bloc quand vous l'enlèverez.
    • Ouvrir votre téléphone endommagera ses joints étanches. Procurez-vous des bandes adhésives de remplacement avant de commencer ou évitez d'exposer votre téléphone aux liquides si vous le remontez sans remplacer les bandes adhésives.

    • Si votre vitre est brisée, recouvrez tout le panneau avec du ruban adhésif pour qu'elle se détache d'un bloc quand vous l'enlèverez.

    • Posez l'iOpener chauffé sur le panneau pendant environ deux minutes afin de ramollir l'adhésif autour du bord de la vitre.

    • Vous aurez peut-être besoin de refaire chauffer et de réappliquer votre iOpener plusieurs fois jusqu'à ce que le téléphone soit suffisamment chaud. Respectez les instructions de l'iOpener pour éviter de le surchauffer.

    • Déplacez l'iOpener pour chauffer la partie restante du panneau pendant deux autres minutes.

    • Un sèche-cheveux, un pistolet à air chaud ou une plaque chauffante peuvent aussi faire l'affaire, veillez cependant à ne pas surchauffer le téléphone – l'écran OLED et la batterie craignent tous deux la chaleur.

    are there any option out there that allows you to heat the adhesive outdoors without any power plug?

    Brotan Store - Réponse

    There's a star in the center of our solar system, you could try that.

    John Joiner -

    the way we do it at Get it fixed cellphone repair calgary is with a heat gun, wich is way easier than this, make sure to wear some gloves and dont worry to use to much heat as long as you point just to the back of the phone, (the back panel is thick enough to protect the logic board from over heat) instead of the usual blue plastic piece i sugest to use the thinnest metal razor knife and a business card so you can insert the business card and move it all around the frame, those blue plastic things are way too thick that will break the glass panel if you apply to much pressure

    get it fixed - Réponse

    After did that with my own heat pad, the white paint got ripped off but luckily glass back cover did not break. So I scratched all white part of the back cover and now its all transparent.

    Jae Chung - Réponse

    I used a purpose built heating device at 100 degree celsius. Lower temperatures didn't work.

    ken - Réponse

    I used a blow dryer, attached my multimeter heat sensor to the back to monitor the temperature. At 54 degrees Celsius I could separate the back with a suction cup from my phone without damaging the paint.

    LRD - Réponse

    I gave up on the hot bag after 4 heat and apply cycles. I was only getting the back up to 60c using an infrared thermometer. I switched to a harbor freight 1500w heat gun set to Low, moving constantly around the back, until the back read 95c. The back came off easily at that point.

    Nathan Wray - Réponse

    using a blowtorch on low heart for 3-5 seconds at close range also works

    Achi Namaratne - Réponse

    I found another site that said temps of 203F/95C were required to soften the glues. Once I started using those temps with my heat gun, as well as a tool I made by just cutting the flat front/back panel from a package of screws (any plastic package that has a flat panel will work) , I had the back off in no time. Had I continued to use the plastic pick shown in the instructions, I really doubt I would have gotten the back off since I couldn’t get enough force on the back from my suction cup. The thin package plastic acted almost like a knife as I moved it around the outside edge. WARNING: If you have to reheat the back, REMOVE THE PACKAGE PLASTIC!! It will start to melt from the heat of a heat gun. Good Luck!!

    morttormjch - Réponse

    I gave up after struggling 1 hour with an hairdryer, the glass was around 65°C and it doesn't wants to lift up at all, anybody got tips ?

    123321mario - Réponse

    What tools are you using Mario?

    vazersecurity -

    Iopener ist totaler Mist.

    Robert Palme - Réponse

    Wenn dann braucht man mehrere um das Panel gleichmäßig zu erhitzen

    Robert Palme - Réponse

  8. Une fois que la vitre arrière est chaude au toucher, posez une ventouse sur la partie inférieure de la vitre. Soulevez la ventouse pour ouvrir un léger interstice sous la vitre arrière et insérez-y un médiator. Facultatif : vous pouvez déposer quelques gouttes d'alcool isopropylique dans l'interstice pour aider à ramollir l'adhésif en vue des étapes suivantes.
    • Une fois que la vitre arrière est chaude au toucher, posez une ventouse sur la partie inférieure de la vitre.

    • Soulevez la ventouse pour ouvrir un léger interstice sous la vitre arrière et insérez-y un médiator.

    • Facultatif : vous pouvez déposer quelques gouttes d'alcool isopropylique dans l'interstice pour aider à ramollir l'adhésif en vue des étapes suivantes.

    If the rear screen is cracked/smashed, you will not be able to use a suction cup to remove it. The suction could would not seal because of the cracks. I tried masking tape, 3M shiny HVAC tape, and others, and the suction could would not seal to those surfaces either.

    I ended up using the sharp point of the smudger to remove some shards of glass to get underneath the cover to leverage it up and out. Definitely use gloves and safety glasses if you have to do this.

    dougpender - Réponse

    Thank you for your comment. I needed to see this particular instance of what to do when the back cover was cracked. I was going to try to suction it with tape covering it. This saved me some heartache. You're an angel!!

    Jessie Brooks -

    Be careful during this step- reapply heat before attempting this one (battery issues tend to melt internal “areas” ) and this area is most prone to crack during the lifting of the back plate.

    Briannah - Réponse

    J’ai utilisé la même ventouse.

    En soulevant la poignée rabattable, la simple succion a aspiré un disque de verre ! J’ai brisé la vitre sans même tirer…

    pierre brunet - Réponse

    I think it is just about impossible to do this without at least removing some paint on the edges. Order a new back before you attempt this. It has the adhesive already on it and costs less than $10 on eBay.

    Thomas Hayes - Réponse

    In order to get in more easily, I normally use the iFlex (the metal one) which is thin enough to create a little space, and then i insert a thinner plastic sheet, just like the default screen protector you might find on some huawei or xiaomi phones. That plus half a drop of alcohol should do the trick. Use caution and be very patient.

    Stefano Restuccia - Réponse

  9. Faites glisser le médiator le long du côté inférieur du téléphone pour couper l'adhésif qui fixe la vitre arrière. Il sera ensuite peut-être utile de laisser le médiator en place et d'en prendre un deuxième pour continuer à l'étape suivante. Cela empêchera la colle d'adhérer à nouveau.
    • Faites glisser le médiator le long du côté inférieur du téléphone pour couper l'adhésif qui fixe la vitre arrière.

    • Il sera ensuite peut-être utile de laisser le médiator en place et d'en prendre un deuxième pour continuer à l'étape suivante. Cela empêchera la colle d'adhérer à nouveau.

    • Refaites chauffer la vitre arrière si nécessaire pour empêcher la colle de refroidir et durcir.

    Be careful that the bottom of the phone is well heated, and add a drop or so of isopropyl alcohol. When I removed the back glass of my S6, some of the black coating on the glass stayed stuck to the adhesive, so to return my phone to its original appearance, I’ll have to get a new back glass.

    Gary F - Réponse

  10. Répétez la procédure précédente pour les trois autres côtés du téléphone. Laissez un médiator inséré de chaque côté quand vous continuez avec le suivant, dans le but d'empêcher l'adhésif de recoller. Laissez un médiator inséré de chaque côté quand vous continuez avec le suivant, dans le but d'empêcher l'adhésif de recoller.
    • Répétez la procédure précédente pour les trois autres côtés du téléphone.

    • Laissez un médiator inséré de chaque côté quand vous continuez avec le suivant, dans le but d'empêcher l'adhésif de recoller.

    At this stage I didn’t use a plastic pick as I think they are too thick and will crack a screen that’s not already cracked. I used a stainless steel

    I sesame blade which does a much better job of cutting through the adhesive. Just be careful not to insert it in too far. I sometimes put a mark on my blade to ensure it doesn’t go in too far.

    Wayne Lyell - Réponse

    I used a card like the ones people use to play poker or any card game with. Only one was needed to separate the back without any damage to the paint.

    LRD - Réponse

    Be sure to apply a decent amount of heat when removing the last bit of the rear glass, cracked the rear of my screen (only a small amount mind) trying too use too much force not enough heat for the last spot.

    spank2103 - Réponse

  11. Faites céder l'adhésif restant à l'aide d'un médiator. Ôtez la vitre arrière.
    • Faites céder l'adhésif restant à l'aide d'un médiator.

    • Ôtez la vitre arrière.

    The rear glass is very fragile. I cracked mine across the camera opening while cleaning off the old sealant. Next time ( I will have to order one and do it again…doh) I’ll place it on a flat surface while cleaning it.

    Greg Scott - Réponse

    This is also a really good time to remove the SIM tray

    John Murphy - Réponse

  12. Pour installer une nouvelle vitre arrière : Utilisez une pincette pour décoller les restes d'adhésif du châssis interne du téléphone.
    • Pour installer une nouvelle vitre arrière :

    • Utilisez une pincette pour décoller les restes d'adhésif du châssis interne du téléphone.

    • Nettoyez les zones d'adhérence avec de l'alcool isopropylique (concentré à au moins 90 %) et un chiffon non-pelucheux. Essuyez dans une seule direction, sans faire de mouvements de va-et-vient. Cela préparera la surface pour la nouvelle couche d'adhésif.

    • Décollez le film de protection de la nouvelle vitre arrière. Alignez soigneusement un bord de l'écran contre le châssis du téléphone, et appuyez fermement sur la vitre pour l'encastrer dans le téléphone.

    • Suivez ce tutoriel pour réinstaller l'ancienne vitre arrière ou poser une vitre arrière qui ne comprend pas d'adhésif préinstallé.

    You should note that the adhesive strip may need to be fully removed from the frame in order to proceed with repairs. The adhesive on my phone covered all of the screws exposed in the next step.

    Sean Cruz - Réponse

    When I did my battery, the adhesive stayed almost 100% on the back glass and was still in good shape. What didn’t remain attached only lifted slightly and I was able to coax it back to its original location with tweezers. I didn’t bother to remove and replace the adhesive layer because mine was still good. I set the glass out of the way where it wouldn’t get dirt on the adhesive while I finished the battery swap. I added some additional heat (hair dryer) after reattaching the glass to make sure the adhesive made the best seal.

    Wayne Thomason - Réponse

  13. Retirez les treize vis Phillips #00 de 3,5 mm fixant le châssis au téléphone.
    • Retirez les treize vis Phillips #00 de 3,5 mm fixant le châssis au téléphone.

    Make sure you do not mix up these thirteen screws with a hidden 14th screw under the mid-frame chassis, on the left side of the headphone port, on daughter-board. This 14th screw is shorter than the other screws, so make sure you do not replace it with one of the longer screws. It will push up against the front glass and lift it away from the adhesive.

    David Whyte - Réponse

  14. Saisissez fermement le bord du châssis. Soulevez le châssis tout en poussant la batterie vers le bas pour séparer le châssis du reste du téléphone. Soulevez le châssis tout en poussant la batterie vers le bas pour séparer le châssis du reste du téléphone.
    • Saisissez fermement le bord du châssis.

    • Soulevez le châssis tout en poussant la batterie vers le bas pour séparer le châssis du reste du téléphone.

    FIRMLY GRASP IT! - Patrick

    Armen Orbelyan - Réponse

    Bei diesem Schritt sicher sein, dass SIM Card Fach entfernt ist!

    zikal - Réponse

    I found the glue still very sticky here, i had to go around with my picks to free it, its very stuck with a UK version, beware!!

    databeat1 - Réponse

    I damaged my screen here a bit, be careful not too slide your pick between the digitizer and the screen.

    Anton -

    i suggest to apply heat on the corners of the front screen to lose the adhesive a lil bit and push from the bottom back of the phone right where the wireless charger is because of the charging port

    get it fixed - Réponse

    When grabbing from the bottom, you fun the risk of damaging the charging port and headphone jack. I would suggest starting from the top. This is because the two ports at the bottom slide down into the frame. There is also adhesive that will give you a little resistance.

    Alex Philip - Réponse

    Step 18 is not correct, you have to start from the top. You can damage the charge port

    Daniel Yaben - Réponse

    On mine the adhesive actually tore away part of the colored film on the back of the screen glass rather than separating from it. I’m guessing applying heat to the screen corners first would help avoid this (I didn’t). https://imgur.com/a/V7vZQ

    Brian Hardie - Réponse

    Don’t stick a pick into the screen side of the frame. You will almost certainly start to separate the digitizer and LCD. Plus there is hardly anything to pry against anyway.

    Thomas Hayes - Réponse

  15. Soulevez le châssis pour le séparer du reste du téléphone.
    • Soulevez le châssis pour le séparer du reste du téléphone.

    what do the numbers ZF-N2 AS WELL AS (F13) AT THE END OF THE MODEL NUMBER, THEN THERE IS REV 5-1-C W G 15221............... WHAT ALL HAS TO MATCH WHEN REPLACING THE MID FRAME.

    mike gentry - Réponse

    Achtung! Bei meiner Reperatur, besonders bei Schritt 14, Auf gar keinen Fall versuchen den Kleber mit einem der Plektren zu lösen. Dort kann man schnell zwischen Displayrahmen und Glas rutschen und so das Display beschädigen!!!

    TheECanyon - Réponse

    Once I got the back off I spotted my issue, This was a tough phone. 5 years of service in the marine industry. I spotted corrosion as I was unplugging. so I continued the battery had so much adhesive , you know the rest.

    digitize r! It had drowned at least four times, was still working but had to be on the charger unless it was in safe mode. So good luck !

    There are more symptoms for others to decide . I like this place reminds me as as a kid in the sixties, lol

    Gerald - Réponse

Conclusion

Pour remonter votre appareil, suivez ces instructions dans l'ordre inverse. Pour le remontage de la vitre arrière, reportez-vous au tutoriel pour remplacer l'adhésif de la vitre arrière.

16 autre(s) ont terminé cette réparation.

Merci à ces traducteurs :

75%

Ces traducteurs nous aident réparer le monde ! Vous voulez contribuer ?
Commencez à traduire ›

Dante Mazzanti

Membre depuis le 13/07/2015

33 944 Réputation

26 tutoriels rédigés

Step 18

Is it really that "simple" to separate the midframe from the front of the phone? In most videos (even the one on ifixit) a suction cup is used (after warming the front) with some prying tools.

So, does Step 18 really work?

It appears that the front is hold together by only 4 adhesives in the corners. Are this damaged during the front removal process? (is there a replacement kit?)

Just another question, I damaged the heart sensor plastic cover, is it possible to buy just that part or do I need to buy a complete midframe?

paulo - Réponse

Can this step be exactly with a simple push as stated? Other sources required focusing heat on the 4 corners and run through with a pick....?

Secondly, how can one avoid damaging the lamination under the glass while removing it or trying to get the first foothold with the pick. Most guides I have seen appear to skip this step.

ahmad - Réponse

I have seen one phone parts site (EtradeSupply) list all different variants of the mid housing (G920F, G920V, G920R etc). But another site (WitRigs) has just one, as if they aren't specific.

Does anyone know? Because i'm in Australia and can't find G920i variant.

Also, has anyone simply swapped over the antennas, and crimped them onto the new housing?

Joshua Rayner - Réponse

Ok Guys I am definitely !#^&@@ off right now.... but to the point.

Please Edit to this guide --> @Step 18:

First of all: Heat the for corners with your iOpener to lose the adhesive which sits in the corners.

Be very very gentle when you push down on the battery and try to put a little pressure onto or maybe into the headphone jack when you first encounter that the display gets lose, because the headphone-jack fits very well in the frame and holds on a little corner.

Only go around the whole display with a spudger when the adhesive is really warm to lose it when it doesn't come out as easy as you thought. Because otherwise you may face that the display to display-glass laminate gets damaged. That just happened to me at the upper display side... so to get a perfect new looking phone I have to replace that as well....EXPENSIVE :(

Hope this may help you guys.

but ... nevertheless ... thank you guys from IFixit for your continous effort to help people repairing there stuff - heads up :-)

jakob - Réponse

Hi Jakob, thanks for your input! When writing this guide we used a device that had been previously disassembled, so our experience may have been different from yours. Just to be clear: you have an issue with step 18 because the adhesive between the midframe and front assembly is very strong and simply pushing the battery is not adequate? Are there other steps that need to be adjusted?

And, as a general note, you can edit this guide yourself! When you hover your cursor over any particular step, an "Edit" button will appear. Alternatively, you can scroll to the top of the page and click the "Edit" tab up there.

Evan Noronha -

I added some details from the comments into step 18.

Mordecai Veldt - Réponse

Ajouter un commentaire

Afficher les statistiques:

Dernières 24 heures : 0

7 derniers jours : 6

30 derniers jours : 37

Total : 22,786