Introduction
Utilisez ce guide pour remplacer le connecteur de dock complet, ce qui inclut le connecteur de dock ainsi que le microphone.
Ce dont vous avez besoin
Vidéo d'introduction
-
-
Éteignez votre iPhone avant de commencer le démontage.
-
Sur le boîtier arrière de votre iPhone 4, il y a ou bien deux vis cruciformes #000 ou bien des vis Apple 5 points Pentalobe (deuxième image). Vérifiez de quelles vis il s'agit et assurez-vous d'avoir le tournevis qu'il vous faut pour les enlever.
-
Enlevez les deux vis de 3,6 mm (Pentalobe ou cruciforme #000) près du connecteur de dock.
-
-
-
Faites glisser la vitre arrière vers le bord supérieur de l'iPhone.
If the back doesn't slide in properly upon reassembly, you didn't insert the motherboard properly. Remove it and try it again, DO NOT try to force it down!
-
-
-
Attrapez la vitre arrière et retirez-la de l'iPhone. Vous pouvez également utiliser une petite ventouse.
using suction cup with too much force breaks rear panel
Remove the single 2.5 mm Phillips screw securing the battery connector to the logic board- for me this Phillips screw won't budge from its place have tried all the phillips combinations 000, 00, 0, 1 and the straight /slotted 1.5 mm but nothing. can some help me please purchased a replacement battery for my iPhone 4 but not able to do it just because of this screw.
If the screw head is not buggered, press the tip of a hot soldering iron to the screw for a second or two. Don't get it too hot, or you'll damage something.
splaye -
don't use hot soldering iron . the female outlet the battery plugs into is very fragile . for no extra money you can buy a battery that has magnetic tools specifically to pick this screw out . if worse comes to worse be certain the screw will come no looser then use tweezers and pick it out . the #1 fear with this technique is DO NOT DROP THE SCREW . I have done this and crawling on my hands and knees till I find it was depressing
-
-
-
Enlevez l'unique vis cruciforme de 2,5 mm qui fixe le connecteur de batterie à la carte mère.
I was going through the take apart and after reassembly, it seems to just sit there an power cycle. It's as though the battery is no longer working. Any thoughts as to what I may have done wrong?
you potentially messed up the ribbon cable from the battery to the adapter. I have done it before. Its not fun...
barri80 -
Stuck on step 4 can't unscrew the battery screw. stopped trying as all i seem to be doing is damaging the screw any tips as to how to approach this?
I ended up drilling the head of one of my screws off. It was already damaged. Then I think I used needle pliers to spin it out once the plate came off and there was more room to grab the shank.
I didn't need to remove the battery !! why would you take the battery away, the motor can be removed easily with the battery in place, and the whole process would take less than 2 minutes if you exclude the battery steps
I was VERY careful but the interior philips screw holding the battery in place but it stripped immediately. I see others have had this problem. What do I do now?!
I've tried three different #000 drivers but they don't fit this screw. Stuck now. Also blows my confidence about proceeding because even if I do get this off.... I see some even smaller Phillips head screw further along in the process
If the screw is not damaged by previous attempts, the screw driver should fit perfectly. You can also tap the screw with a small mass to unlock.
revher -
Despite the battery replacement it’s really simple, in my iPhone 4 there was a totally different connector for the battery (I’ll post a few photos). Wider, only one screw but at the top, with a small contact clip screwed together with the battery connector, and which flies off once you remove the battery connector. By the way the battery provided from ifixit did not fit into neither any of the screw holes nor in the socket. The socket is in a different position compared to that in the pictures here and the battery connector can’t reach at the same time the socket and it’s seat. Sadly I have to give up… 🥲
-
-
-
Utilisez un outil en plastique pour soulever délicatement le connecteur de la batterie de son emplacement sur la carte mère.
-
Retirez le cache métallique sur le connecteur de l'antenne.
There is a small black L-shaped bracket of some sort that tits between the battery connector and the motherboard socket, with a loop on one corner that sits betwen the riserand the battery connector. Remove this now, and do not forget to re install it on assembly.
In Step 5 be EXTRA careful with the battery connector as the socket can come off extremely easy. This can mess up the replacement a little bit and cost you extra. Otherwise, this guide is excellent.
Good luck, fixers!
I fix(ed) it!
When removing this L shaped piece, it should be shown ON CAMERA where it came from and the exact position it was in while in the phone, I had to take 2 screws (not 1 like said in the video) out to get to this piece and once that second screw came up I didn't get a chance to see where this piece came from because it popped right out. I was extremely nervous but I believe I got it back in properly.
Putting the antennae cover back in place is impossible without a good photo. I used this link to refer to:
-
-
-
En vous servant de la languette en plastique transparente, soulevez délicatement la batterie et retirez-la de l'iPhone.
-
S’il reste de l’alcool dans le téléphone, essuyez-le soigneusement ou laissez-le sécher à l’air libre avant d’installer votre nouvelle batterie.
-
Avant de rebrancher le connecteur de la batterie, assurez-vous que le clip de contact (en rouge) est correctement positionné à côté du connecteur de la batterie.
use the iPod opening tool to pry gently under the battery from the outer edge of the phone and work towards the plastic tab. the tab is not actually attached to the battery itself, but a plastic sheet between the battery and inner frame. the adhesive on the battery tends to be under the edge of the battery nearest the center of the phone.
This i think is the most diffucult part.
Because they use so much glue on it. I have to did this with so much force.
Glad that i didn't kill the circuit board when i took this out.
My battery was so firmly glued in, it took a long time to slowly pry it loose. Patience is the key to this process. I could see easily damaging the circuit board by using too much force. The plastic tab did not help at all.
The ribbon cable attaching the new battery to the battery connector clip is longer than the original. I clicked the clip into the socket first and then was very careful to fold the excess while putting the battery back in so the ribbon cable didn't kink. One kink in this could sever the battery leads.
My ribbon cable was also longer than the original. How did you get it to not kink while placing the batter back into the phone? That seems to be my only hang up at the moment
Piece of cake! The hardest part was being sure the outer pentalobe screws were actually turning and I wasn't stripping them. Battery was glued firmly in, so I loosened it from the outside instead of using the plastic pull-tab. I pre-bent the battery connector neck before putting it back in and had no problems with it fitting in. Getting the battery connector aligned with the antenna piece underneath was a bit fiddly. Got the case back on, put in the new screws, and powered the phone on without problem. Had 40% charge, all seems well. Yippee!
Do NOT use a spudger or similar type of prising tool to try lift up the battery. Instead, just warm up the whole area with a hot air gun or hair drier to soften the glue.
The reason why I say don't use an implement to try lift the battery is because far too many times I've seen punctured & bent batteries come in to this workshop that have to be thrown out for safety reasons. It only takes a grain of sand, or a burr on the spudger and you're risking a potential cell rupture and potential fire.
Just use a bit of heat ( not a lot! ) to soften up the glue and it'll come away with the plastic pull tab.
These instructions don't mention putting the 2.5mm screw back in. I found this very challenging because it is so short, so very difficult to line it up to get it back in the hole, and very easy to drop it inside the phone. Take care.
Apparently it's not necessary to remove the battery, but try at least (I'm curious).
The battery was stuck (too much glue) and the plastic tab didn't help, and I ripped it...
So I use the plastic opening tool on the other side to remove really gently the battery, it was really really stucked with the glue... Now I'll know when I'll need to change it.
I put a little piece of tape to repair the plastic tab for the next time.
For the other part of the guide, it was a piece of cake and I'm a bad bad handyman :)
Thanks for the guide!
You are right. This is the reason why their is simpler guide: iPhone 4 Battery disconnection to be used when there is no necessity for removing the battery. Disconnection is sufficient for many fixes except replacement of the battery!
revher -
you have to remove the battery for digitizer replacement, however i would suggest removing it at the very last stage, i.e. step 24. cause it is easier to remove without the logic board being there
Adhesive was holding battery VERY firmly, so during this step I used a hair blow dryer on low setting to carefully heat up the device. Then used the plastic tool to gently but firmly pry up one place on each edge. At first it felt like barely anything was happening, but within a few tries the adhesive gave away easily and the battery came right out.
Before inserting the battery I put the contact clip into position. It has a hooked shape on one side which fits between the socket and the folded battery cable. If you try to position it AFTER the battery is installed the whole process is much more difficult. I used a tweezers to hold it in place while inserting the battery.
When inserting the battery I started by guiding the folded cable into position against the side of the contact clip, then proceeded to lay the battery in position. This made it very easy to have all parts in their original positions -- no need to fiddle with the battery cable or contact clip afterwards.
When pressing the battery connector into the socket, the first time I pressed from bottom to top. That didn't work because there is a little tab at the top of the connector which must fit into a tiny notch or else the connector won't lay flat properly. Pressing the connector from top to bottom worked easily.
Needle-nosed tweezers were very helpful when lining up the screws. After everything was reassembled I tried powering up the device, but the battery had insufficient charge. I plugged it in and immediately the screen displayed a battery with a thin red line (illustrating no charge). After 25 minutes the device sprang to life and indicated a 10% charge. At 70 minutes the battery indicated 30% charge, and at that rate should be fully charged in under 4 hours. It's fixed!!
Why they didn't say this, I have no idea: HEAT UP THE BACK OF THE PHONE! This helps the adhesive give so much easier, worth the extra 2 minutes to make sure you don't tear anything.
super easy, battery had plenty of glue for what ever reason, I put the screw in 1st then set the battery and was easy to set the new battery. Charge was at 94% strange seeing it next to my Iphone 6 but glad I did it as now I can use it for music and save the battery on the main phone. Thanks for a easy instruction guide.
Strictly speaking re-assembly is NOT the exact reverse of dismantling. In particular do not put the battery in and then try to plug in the connector, Rather, start by plugging in the connector (having straightened the ribbon-wire attaching it to the battery) and only then re=position the battery on its (gluey) base. Also I used a wooden cocktail stick to position the antenna connector correctly (pushing the stick through the hole in the antenna piece and into the threaded base where the screw will eventually go) and then I held it all in place (temporarily) with a tiny blob of Bluetac until I managed to successfully withdraw the cocktail stick and fit the proper screw.
Stuey 25/2/2018
.Heating a towel and wrapping the phone for 3 min did the trick of removal of the battery.
I used the plastic opening tool to nudge the battery a bit and then shoved in the guitar pick. By sliding the guitar pick over the length of the battery, the battery got unstuck very easily.
When attaching the battery connector make sure that it snaps in place. My replacement battery connector did not snap in place and I forced it on, that caused the connector to detach from the ribbon cable. I had to solder the connector back onto the cable which requires a very steady hand and SMD soldering tools. So, if it does not snap in place with a clicking sound, the connector is probably of bad quality and your battery will probably not work. I placed my old battery back (where the connector nicely snapped in place) and am waiting for a replacement of the dodgy replacement battery.
-
-
-
Retirez les deux vis suivantes:
-
Une vis cruciforme de 1,2 mm
-
Une vis cruciforme de 1,6 mm
-
Retirez le cache en acier fin de la nappe du connecteur de dock de l'iPhone.
-
-
-
-
Utilisez un outil en plastique pour défaire délicatement le connecteur de la nappe du dock de la carte mère à partir des deux côtés courts du connecteur.
Ahh! I had a problem here. First two times, I still had no charging and home button,Third time I got it. When putting it the cable back on to the logic board it never sat right. On my third try I heard a click! I finished putting everything else back together and it worked.
-
-
-
Décollez soigneusement la nappe de dock de la carte mère et de l'enceinte inférieure.
unfortunatelly the gold shimmering rubber layer that kept down the cable tore up a bit and one of the gold contact lines is now visible. Will this interfere, is the gold shimmering rubber shielding the cable from the metal or is it "just" rubber that keeps the cable down?
In other word; will I have to replace the gold shimmering rubber layer or can I just turn it back down even if it's a bit torn?
-
-
-
A l'aide d'un outil en plastique, dégagez le connecteur de l'antenne inférieure de sa prise sur la carte mère.
The uFL connector on the board does not hold any more. Can anyone suggest me how to make this stay again, or do I really need to replace the antenna?
-
-
-
A l'aide d'un outil en plastique, soulevez l'enceinte complète de son emplacement, tout en veillant à ne pas endommager les doigts de contact EMI sur l'antenne Wi-Fi attachée.
-
Retirez l'enceinte complète.
err 2 of the grounding pins broke in the process of reinstallation.. how many do you reckon before wifi = 0
-
-
-
Utilisez un outil en plastique pour décoller soigneusement la partie inférieure du connecteur de dock complet de l'adhésif qui le fixe au boîtier arrière.
-
-
-
Utilisez la pointe d'une spatule (spudger) ou votre ongle pour déplier le rabat retenant la nappe du bouton home vers le haut.
-
A l'aide de pincettes, retirez délicatement la nappe du bouton home de sa prise. Prenez note de sa position pour le remontage.
Used all the steps the first time then only took off bottom end to get to dock connector the second and third time. iPhone charges properly but home button doesn't work. I tried reinserting "fragile" ribbon cable three times and I think it's in but home button still fails to work. Is this the only part that affects the home button or is there another connector that might have been reattached improperly? Thanks.
I just used this guide and it was spot on. When putting the new dock connector in I was having trouble replacing the home button ribbon cable. I ended up removing the dock connector screws and pulling the assembly back out. I then slid the ribbon cable into it's slot, locked it in place, and then put the assembly back into the phone. It was much easier replacing the ribbon cable this way. Hope this helps someone.
-
-
-
Retirez le cache caoutchouté du microphone, fixé à l'ancien connecteur de dock et transférez-le au nouveau connecteur de dock.
-
La nappe est très fragile et peut se déchirer facilement lorsque vous placez le cache caoutchouté sur le nouveau composant.
Be sure to remove the film over the new microphone before sliding on the rubber cover! I missed it the first few times and could not understand — for the life of me — why the microphone wasn't working. It's easy to miss!
I assembled my phone with the new dock and everything seemed to be working but I later noticed the phone only charges when you fiddle with the cable, the phone also can't be connected to any docks. Anything I can do to fix this? Or is it just a bad dock connector?
competed but its still not picking up voice in calls
-
Pour remonter votre appareil, suivez les étapes dans l'ordre inverse.
Pour remonter votre appareil, suivez les étapes dans l'ordre inverse.
Annulation : je n'ai pas terminé ce tutoriel.
503 autres ont terminé cette réparation.
Merci à ces traducteurs :
100%
Ces traducteurs nous aident réparer le monde ! Vous voulez contribuer ?
Commencez à traduire ›
Pièces jointes
26 commentaires
I found a cool iPhone 4 universal dock adapter that may help protect the connector from being damaged in the first place. It is called the LCYO Adapter (http://www.synthecept.com) and lets you dock the phone without removing the case. Just a thought, like I said it might help avoid a damaged connector!
I successfully did this, however now my mic is not working unless I am on speaker or using my headphones... anyone else have this problem?
thanks,
D
I had two different little pieces of plastic on my replacement on the mic that I needed to peel off. You may have left some on. Not the easiest to check, but a possibility.
I had the same problem - nonfunctioning lower mic upon reassembly after replacing dock connector. Took it apart again, removed and reinstalled the dock connector paying special attention to the mic. Still no luck upon reassembly the second time. Any ideas? Bad/damaged mic?
Removing the logic board seems to be unnecessary. I was able to replace the dock connector by simply removing the speakers and battery.
Also, it'd be nice if the dock connector came with a new moisture sensor.
Definitely agree on the moisture sensor. I had to replace mine because it got real wet a few months ago. I was able to keep it working for a while, but then the mic eventually died.
The logic board removal was questionable for me. I felt like I didn't have to, but it made it much easier to properly reinstall the speaker enclosure.
I had a visibly crossed pin inside the doc connector. The phone would connect via USB, but no power to the battery. After replacing the connector I only get the USB connection graphic in the upper right corner of the phone instead of the lightening bolt. Could some kind of short happen to the electronics/battery because of the crossed pin? Could this be fixed?
I am going to try a different battery once I fix a stripped screw preventing the removal of the battery... doh.
Success!!!!!!!!!! After drilling out the battery holding screw with a 1/16 reverse drill bit and replacing the battery the phone now works.
Dave -
I succeeded replacing the dock connector on my iPhone 4. Everything works 100%. Accomplished the repair by removing the battery and speaker housing. Removing the processor was not necessary in my case.
Ive been taking apart my phone on and off to attempt to fix a non working mic after this guide. Long story short, I purchased another dock connector but from amazon and it worked. Might of been a faulty piece, who knows. But I learned from all of this is carefull stripping the screws and catagorization helps a bunch when taking apart.
I also completing this repair without taking off the logic board. Word of warning however, the speakers are a PAIN to put back in without removing the logic board.
I was able to replace the charging dock fairly easily BUT I skipped some steps that seemed unnecessary: (1) I did NOT remove the battery. I simply disconnected the battery cable (performing steps 4 and 5). And, (2) I did NOT remove the logic board. I simply removed the dock ribbon cable from the logic board (performing steps 8, 9, and 10).
In summary, I skipped steps 6,7,12,13,14,15,16,17,18,19. I performed the rest of the steps as outline in the guide. Note that I was very careful and taking care to WORK AROUND the battery and logic board with very little difficulty. The phone works perfectly.
can you use one screwdriver for all the screws? or do you HAVE to use a variety of small screwdrivers?
I used a single Phillips screwdriver for all of the Phillips head screws, and a single flathead screwdriver for the flat head screw.
Thanks so much for the excellent and clear instructions! I took my phone to the Apple store Genius Bar where they couldn't fix as they didn't have the part to replace it and only offered a brand new phone at a cost.. how ridiculous considering they're supposed to be the Apple repair technicians. After wasting my time there I decided to have a go at it myself since the phone was out of warranty anyway, so I spent $13 on eBay for the part and fixed it myself with no hassles. Thanks a bunch!
why on earth does the description tell you to remove the main board? not necessary! (and it's not mentioned in the video...
Hello everyone I have a question in regards to this I replaced this part on my iPhone 4 and it caused my touch to stop working can anyone help me plz. I need my phone asap since this is my work phone. I already tried doing the hard reset by pressing the home and sleep button I already tried taking it apart and redoing the whole process and no luck. Any info will be greatlly appreciated thanks.
Got my phone back to normal. Had to replace my dock connector due to some audio problems where it seemed to be locked in "dock-mode" due to a short-circuit causing my phone not to produce audio for music and other media from the internet.
What an adventure! Stripped a screw, another went flying somewhere, had a random part drop out and I couldn't remember how to put back the metal clip. My metal clip is not in the video because my phone is Verizon. Used a carbon precision screwdriver instead of the screwdriver from the kit to get out the stripped screw, my husband miraculously found the missing screw, and, as I was reassembling, I saw where the part that dropped out would be helpful, and it snapped into place, it turned out the metal clip could go in only one way, and I was still able to use the stripped screw. At first my iphone wouldn't charge at all, the home button wouldn't work, and the music wouldn't play, and it was overheating while charging, but I found the solutions to all of these issues on the forum; 1) make sure the connector cable is snapped in, 2) bend the little gold contacts for the home button downwards, 3) restart the phone, and 4) stop running so many apps all at once. Now everything is working and charging perfectly!
I was able to exchange the doc connector. However, the problem is not fixed: No USB-Connection possible, doesn't show charging symbol when charging, chjarges really slow. Than I assumed the doc connector was broken, but looks like I asumed wrong. Has anybodey any clue what I need to repair? Thanks alot
I was sent the wrong connector. Everything is the same except the long flat part is way shorter than the original. Check your parts before taking your phone apart.
using something like the 18-compartment tray will GREATLY help with this one; there are over a dozen groups of parts. For re-assembly having a digital calipers to measure the 2.4 vs the 2.6mm screws also helps greatly.
awr - Réponse
My method for hardware management during delicate phone surgery is to take and print out on 8.5"x11' paper, one or more pictures of the open phone in various stages of disassembly, and then tape the screws to the appropriate spots on the pictures. Also write numbers on the pictures next the screws to indicate the order in which you removed them.
lens42 -
I use a plastic egg tray, I drop all the screws and small parts (like the camera) for each step into the same egg indentation. You can see that the screws are different lengths, so I don't put one screw into it's own spot. I used 5 egg indentations to replace my screen.
Mangled Jargon -
I did a successful surgery on my iPhone, be warned this is not for the faint of heart!
I've done iPod screen replacements, battery replacements, this is by far much more difficult and intricate.
Great write up! Thanks a million.
Jaysen Strange - Réponse
I've changed some iPod screens as well and that has been the least pleasant experience so far. Glue and the main connector that has to be unwrapped and connected from the rear where you have no feel or control where it belongs.
iPhone repair is complex, but doable and has very few "traps".
mcbohdo -
Couldn't even get both screws out of the bottom of the case. One was easy and other refuses to budge. Screws so small I can't see if it is turning or screw driver is properly seated. Sad I too have done screen replacements on other phones. Don't know any secrets to get the screw out
ckracht - Réponse
I also have a problem with seeing what is happening with some of those tiny little screws and parts. For other projects that I do, I use an Opti-Visor. It slips over your head and provides 10x magnification. ( You can find them on Amazon).
Yeah, it adds cost to the project and you would have to wait for delivery, but it sure makes a world of difference in seeing what you are working with / on.
jhow -
On an early iPhone 4 I found that the #000 Phillips bit included in the 54 Bit Driver Kit didn't actually fit the screws. However the JIS #000 also in the kit did fit quite well. This is due to the JIS bits "thinner" design to prevent camming out of the slot. Otherwise everything went well. Looking forward to replacing the battery in my other phone that has the pentalobe screws. Glad I got the 54 Bit kit!
etler - Réponse
Use a vacuum duster and a sharp tool to pry out the dust, this can increase the volume insanely!
Dpairs - Réponse
What does the park that is gold and next to the 4.8mm screw for the antenna? Looks like I am missing that part and almost positive that is why I can't pick up or connect to any wifi signals. I have the screw and the antenna from another phone that is working and tried it on the broken phone and still doesn't work. Only thing different is that gold metal piece to the left of that 4.8 mm screw. Can I buy that part? how do I attach it?
Jay Pennington - Réponse
great instructions did it the first time
Mr J - Réponse
For organisation of the parts and for a much easier process of rebuilding i use a big magnetic flat surface with a grid drawn on it. Then I use a dry erase marker to make any notes I need and to number the parts in order as i disassemble . Believe me it saves a lot of time and hassle especially if you drop one of those tiny screws good luck finding it but when your working over the magnet and drop a screw its going to be right where it fell. At first I tried the piece of paper to keep organised but all it takes is one small slip and you move the paper too quick and your left with a jumbled bunch of screws and parts and a painstaking task of putting it all back correctly, aka a big waist of time and effort.
case-yg - Réponse
I found it very useful to use a magnet sheet when doing these repairs. I use electrical tape or a sharpie to make a grid, and place each micro screw in a separate box on the grid.
I work directly over the magnet sheet, so that if something drops I have a better chance at not losing it.
If you do lose a screw, go over the work area with a fridge magnet. It will pick it up if it hasn’t popped too far away.
Megan Telliano - Réponse